When I first saw Del do this some time ago, I copied it exactly. If you do exactly as Del says, you'll never mess with a fret saw again. Works perfectly every time, and is fast, and accurate. Thanks Del!
I'm on the band wagon with this. Made one from the first video you did. I still measure and pencil method and draw the line on the bottom of the fret board to guide and make the cuts on the other side.
Del, Called Malco this afternoon and ordered the blades. So, they are still in business. I told them that I am a new customer of theirs because YOU recommended them. Thanks!
Did not know about the support collars. Thanks for the tip! And pretty stoked, we're supposed to have a new Harbor Freight by the end of the year. Sorry for the lack thereof in Australia, but we don't have kangaroos here. Or koalas...
That mighty mite was not so mighty. Plenty mite, not so mighty. I was thinking about getting one of those. Thank you for convincing me otherwise. The video was great though. Very informative. Thanks.
I use the old Xacto type(hobby) saw, with a homemade miter box. Now, I have experienced some "variability" with this(some frets a little off the 90°), but somehow it came out perfectly intonated. This was with poplar, but very seldom do I need to ca glue a fret.
Del, how often have you had to change blades? One thing that might help folks (besides making sure they have a good quality blade and installed in the right direction) is to install a large diameter steel washer outboard of the collars if there's room. The mass of the washers will add to the momentum of the blade. While that will cause it to spin up more slowly, it keeps the blade from slowing down as much in the cut.
Displaced Redneck …. Good point. In his video, Del mentioned the collars for each side of the blade and when I ordered the blades, Malco Saw Company did also.
Hi Del. I bought this saw and some Malco blades. I admit the saw quality is questionable. But its under 30$ and its Harbor Freight; so go figure. But the casting on the saw frame is pretty iffy. Meaning every time I clamp the table top down its not square to the blade and is different each time. Did you fix this by adjusting to square to the blade with the cross arm on your plywood slide? I see its screwed down with limited adjustment. Or is this a problem you don't have? I'm thinking about screwing down my cross arm on one side. Slotting the cross arm on the other end with a tightening knob of some sort. This would allow me to adjust and check squareness of table slide to the blade with each use.
I set up a block on the back side of the saw “table” to keep it from tilting. Between that and making sure the knob is tight before each use it seems to be holding steady.
Del….. I can’t find the 3” support collars on the malco site or the site you listed below. Can you please give me a link or the item number. I found the blade with no problem. Thanks man!
these were gifts… they just showed up one day. i have no links or anything. sorry. but you will need them. they are basically just large washers that stabilize the blade
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar thanks brother. Do you have tips on what makes a good box? Bit worried the wood is too thick and the box itself too small to fit the neck
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I can't get it to cut anything, no matter how fast I push through it. I bought a very expensive jewelry blade with great reviews. I made the jig with my band saw because trying to cut through 1/4 plywood was impossible, even trying to make short cuts. No matter what I did, it bogged down and wouldn't work. I ended up buying a fret saw that was cheaper anyway. It just takes longer and is a lot less consistent.
That knob is so poorly designed, you really have to tighten it as hard as you can and it's difficult because it's underneath the table, you can't grasp it easily to do so... even using a wrench is hard... And, if you can afford it get the best saw blade you can buy. The one I got (based on price.. $25) only lasted maybe 8 - 10 fretboards...StewMac allegedly makes the best but it's over $125 The Malco blades I hear are pretty good at about $25 or so, but as far as I can tell the minimum purchase is from Malco is $100...
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
When I first saw Del do this some time ago, I copied it exactly. If you do exactly as Del says, you'll never mess with a fret saw again. Works perfectly every time, and is fast, and accurate. Thanks Del!
after over 400 builds, the sled is starting to get a little 'slop'. might need to update sometime soon.
I always wondered what those things were good for. Learned something new. Thanks Del!
that jig is kool.... a Lot of good info !!
I'm on the band wagon with this. Made one from the first video you did.
I still measure and pencil method and draw the line on the bottom of the fret board to guide and make the cuts on the other side.
nothing wrong with that method at all !! 😎
Del, Called Malco this afternoon and ordered the blades. So, they are still in business.
I told them that I am a new customer of theirs because YOU recommended them.
Thanks!
awesome... thats good news!!!
Did not know about the support collars. Thanks for the tip! And pretty stoked, we're supposed to have a new Harbor Freight by the end of the year. Sorry for the lack thereof in Australia, but we don't have kangaroos here. Or koalas...
That mighty mite was not so mighty. Plenty mite, not so mighty. I was thinking about getting one of those. Thank you for convincing me otherwise. The video was great though. Very informative. Thanks.
I use the old Xacto type(hobby) saw, with a homemade miter box. Now, I have experienced some "variability" with this(some frets a little off the 90°), but somehow it came out perfectly intonated. This was with poplar, but very seldom do I need to ca glue a fret.
thats awesome!!! I been there... :-)
I have that exact setup from your review several years ago and still can’t get it to even finish one fret cut due to lack of power
let it rev… then jam it thru as fast as you can
It still doesn't cut through. This was a $75 mistake. Is there a stronger motor available?
Del, how often have you had to change blades? One thing that might help folks (besides making sure they have a good quality blade and installed in the right direction) is to install a large diameter steel washer outboard of the collars if there's room. The mass of the washers will add to the momentum of the blade. While that will cause it to spin up more slowly, it keeps the blade from slowing down as much in the cut.
Displaced Redneck …. Good point. In his video, Del mentioned the collars for each side of the blade and when I ordered the blades, Malco Saw Company did also.
What's the collar washer look like? I like to try this! Thanks, Del for the informative video. Moocho appreciated!
Is the blade that’s comes with the saw the perfect width/kerf for cutting fret slots ?
no … you’ll need .023
Ok thanks
I just use a CB Giddy fret slotting miter box and saw .
I've done that and it works...!!!
Hi Del. I bought this saw and some Malco blades. I admit the saw quality is questionable. But its under 30$ and its Harbor Freight; so go figure. But the casting on the saw frame is pretty iffy. Meaning every time I clamp the table top down its not square to the blade and is different each time. Did you fix this by adjusting to square to the blade with the cross arm on your plywood slide? I see its screwed down with limited adjustment. Or is this a problem you don't have? I'm thinking about screwing down my cross arm on one side. Slotting the cross arm on the other end with a tightening knob of some sort. This would allow me to adjust and check squareness of table slide to the blade with each use.
no - but I do need to severly tighten the knob to prevent table from tilting.
I set up a block on the back side of the saw “table” to keep it from tilting. Between that and making sure the knob is tight before each use it seems to be holding steady.
Del….. I can’t find the 3” support collars on the malco site or the site you listed below. Can you please give me a link or the item number. I found the blade with no problem. Thanks man!
these were gifts… they just showed up one day. i have no links or anything. sorry. but you will need them. they are basically just large washers that stabilize the blade
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar thanks man! I will just call them. I appreciate you bud!!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar oh yeah….. love your And We Know stuff! Great podcast!!
Hi mate your channel is an inspiration! Quick question - could you use a backgammon/chess box instead of a cigar box?
thank you and yes !!!
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar thanks brother. Do you have tips on what makes a good box? Bit worried the wood is too thick and the box itself too small to fit the neck
Hi Del, these Mighty Mites aren’t available new anymore. Is there anything else you can recommend in its place? Thanks!
Does the saw come already with support collars?
you ever going to get a SawStop table saw?
what it that ?!
I have one of these saws ,a little under powered , but still does small jobs .
yup... I let it rev up every cut
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I wonder if a 3 inch blade would help power-through the cuts?
How deep are the fret slot?
barely deeper than the fret tang needs … approximately 3/32
When you showed "collars" you showed only a white envelope-- no part number.
Does anybody know where I can get some cheap cigar boxes?
cigar stores … antique shops, thrift stores, garage sales, ebay,
I tried this and couldn't get it to work.
bummer... what was the problem?
@@PuckettCigarBoxGuitar I can't get it to cut anything, no matter how fast I push through it. I bought a very expensive jewelry blade with great reviews. I made the jig with my band saw because trying to cut through 1/4 plywood was impossible, even trying to make short cuts. No matter what I did, it bogged down and wouldn't work. I ended up buying a fret saw that was cheaper anyway. It just takes longer and is a lot less consistent.
Fun fact: There are no Harbor Freights in Australia.
that's probably a good thing... it's all MADE IN CHINA stuff...
That knob is so poorly designed, you really have to tighten it as hard as you can and it's difficult because it's underneath the table, you can't grasp it easily to do so... even using a wrench is hard...
And, if you can afford it get the best saw blade you can buy. The one I got (based on price.. $25) only lasted maybe 8 - 10 fretboards...StewMac allegedly makes the best but it's over $125
The Malco blades I hear are pretty good at about $25 or so, but as far as I can tell the minimum purchase is from Malco is $100...
exactly !!!!!!!!!!!