I'm a Sailboat guy, but I really enjoy these videos because Dan is very innovative and I really enjoy learning about these incredible techniques. Brilliant!
Another beautiful job, Dan. Your snapped veneer brought back painful memories of a similar task I did years ago - it's amazing how thin the timber has to be to easily go around what appear to be generous curves! Also smiled to see your shop companion wandering around.
It’s coming along great well done, you should try the polymer finish nails they hold great and won’t corrode or stain the wood they are a game changer 👍🏻🇮🇪
Thanks! I have the Raptor stapler and that will get used when I get on to hull planking, I agree it is a great tool. I am trying to avoid having any visible fixings in finish areas though if possible.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I probably should have put shiny in “ “ . I’m a big fan of satin finish and generally prefer that rich lustre to a mirror finish in many situations. Sounds awesome!
Do you need to veneer both sides if the other side is not visible? I've heard conflicting opinions on whether my substrate will turn into a potato chip.
It depends on the support of the part. If there is little support and you veneer one side then yes you probably will end up with a curled potato chip, especially with a heavy, 3mm veneer such as this. It is better to do a balanced veneer on either side and then you are basically just adding 2x extra layers to the ply. If it is fully supported by other items then you should be fine. For example when I get to doing the cockpit furniture for this boat, seating and lockers etc, I doubt I will go to the extent of veneering the inside of these. But as the boards will be fully supported and braced so as to not allow movement then they should be fine. Hope that helps 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding it does thank you. I planned on doing 3-4" wide strips of sapele with 1/4" strip of maple for the flooring of my boat. It will be supported.
I can't hear any rain in the background. What's up with that? Btw I've seen people use wall paper steamers to encourage wood strips to bend - applied exactly at the bend and for quite a short time. Never tried it myself, but it looked like the wood became more pliable after like 30 seconds. The thicker the wood, the longer them time, not sure how thick wood they were working with.
Yes, we actually had a week of dry weather in the UK 😃 of course it is raining again now! Yes a little steam would have certainly done the job here, however I would have had to dry it out again then before bonding really.
Just because it adds extra time into the process. The timber would have to be left to cool and for the moisture content to drop back down before you could laminate it.
I’m always confused when someone uses the term “mil”. You say 3 mil. Is that .076 millimeters. Or is it .003 in? Because those veneers look mush thicker than either.
Absolutely brilliant and enjoying watching a craftsman at work.
I'm a Sailboat guy, but I really enjoy these videos because Dan is very innovative and I really enjoy learning about these incredible techniques. Brilliant!
Another beautiful job, Dan. Your snapped veneer brought back painful memories of a similar task I did years ago - it's amazing how thin the timber has to be to easily go around what appear to be generous curves! Also smiled to see your shop companion wandering around.
Yes I was surprised how thin I had to go with that internal layer!
Amazing workmanship. Thankyou for showing.
It’s coming along great well done, you should try the polymer finish nails they hold great and won’t corrode or stain the wood they are a game changer 👍🏻🇮🇪
Thanks! I have the Raptor stapler and that will get used when I get on to hull planking, I agree it is a great tool. I am trying to avoid having any visible fixings in finish areas though if possible.
Great work. Really enjoying the series.
Thanks, that’s great to hear!
Nice work again. Looking forward to see other parts as well. 🙂
Compliments Dan!! really! You're grate!
I'm looking forward to a having a look to see how you are getting on, shipmate
One more awesome video and awesome bulkhead!
Can’t wait for the transom 🤩
As always, looking forward to the next episode.
Another wonderful video. Thanks
Nice work as always Dan. Looking forward to seeing those bulkheads all shiny. Cheers
I think I’m actually going to finish the internals in a satin varnish, probably Epifanes rubbed effect. It will look lovely 👌
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding I probably should have put shiny in “ “ . I’m a big fan of satin finish and generally prefer that rich lustre to a mirror finish in many situations. Sounds awesome!
This is incredibly entertaining when combined with the previous viewing of the scale model. Love having seen both sizes of completed product!!
Спасибо , очень интересная работа , приятно видеть как вы находите правильный выход из не стандартной сложной технологической ситуации .
Love it Dan!
Well done
Great work!
good video
Well, I doubt a heart surgeon could be any more meticulous than you are 😎
You could use a 2nd set of hands.
I will do before long, I’ve got some huge stringers to make soon!
is this a commissioned boat?
No, right now I am trying to self fund this build.
Do you need to veneer both sides if the other side is not visible? I've heard conflicting opinions on whether my substrate will turn into a potato chip.
It depends on the support of the part. If there is little support and you veneer one side then yes you probably will end up with a curled potato chip, especially with a heavy, 3mm veneer such as this. It is better to do a balanced veneer on either side and then you are basically just adding 2x extra layers to the ply.
If it is fully supported by other items then you should be fine. For example when I get to doing the cockpit furniture for this boat, seating and lockers etc, I doubt I will go to the extent of veneering the inside of these. But as the boards will be fully supported and braced so as to not allow movement then they should be fine. Hope that helps 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding it does thank you. I planned on doing 3-4" wide strips of sapele with 1/4" strip of maple for the flooring of my boat. It will be supported.
You should be fine then, especially if it’s laid flat and fixed down 👍
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding cool, I'll post something on my IG when it's done.
I can't hear any rain in the background. What's up with that?
Btw I've seen people use wall paper steamers to encourage wood strips to bend - applied exactly at the bend and for quite a short time. Never tried it myself, but it looked like the wood became more pliable after like 30 seconds. The thicker the wood, the longer them time, not sure how thick wood they were working with.
Yes, we actually had a week of dry weather in the UK 😃 of course it is raining again now!
Yes a little steam would have certainly done the job here, however I would have had to dry it out again then before bonding really.
I's there a reason you don't steam bend?
Just because it adds extra time into the process. The timber would have to be left to cool and for the moisture content to drop back down before you could laminate it.
I keep thinking of Pete Townsand for some reason say isn't he from somewhere around there?
I think he might be, can’t say I’ve ever bumped into him though.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Well he bumped into somebody
I’m always confused when someone uses the term “mil”. You say 3 mil. Is that .076 millimeters. Or is it .003 in? Because those veneers look mush thicker than either.
"3mil" can also mean 3mm - and that's what Dan is saying.
@@18robsmith thanks. That makes a lot more sense. So just a bit less than 1/8”. Appreciate the clarification
Anyone who uses metric commonly refer to millimetres as “mil”. It’s just a short handed way of abbreviating 4 syllables down to 1.