I always appreciate how humble Sam is. He is a great painter and knows all the fancy terms but doesn’t toss those terms out there to confuse us or make himself look superior. Great painters don’t need to tell you they’re great, and He gets it. Thanks for the video.
These 2 and Vince have helped me so much in my hobby journey. Love my Sam lenz brushes. My local hobby store recommended them and it saved me from falling into the pitfalls of buying brushes.
And this went straight into my "Mini Painting Advice" playlist for when I need to share it with new hobbyists. Personally I really enjoy the Fine Touch teacher's pack of 30 synthetic brushes. The medium size round brush usually lasts me a month, and my hobby lobby often does 50% off. The pack is half rounds and half flats, and all those flat brushes just become my dry brushes.
It took me a while to get used to fancy brushes. I actually prefer synthetics for doing things like edge highlights, sable brushes just seem to act weird on me.
MANILLA ROOOOOAD!!!! 90% of the Sam videos I watch to see what Metal shirt he is wearing. This one was by far the best so far. Crystal Logic is the shiiiit! The content being good and informative is just a bonus ;)
I still use the old citadel brushes which are blue ( they are even older than the yellow tipped Uncle Atom showed) and i dont use any expensive cleaners. My trick is, to have a empty vallejo bottle without the tip and filled with with Airbrush Cleaner around. After the paint session i stick the 1-2 used brushes inside that bottle for 1h or until tomorrow . the bottle neck is thin enough that 2 brushes will sick inside without the brushtips hitting the bottle floor. This gets the still humid paint out of the bristles and ferule. After that i use some conditioner to get the a nice tip again.
One important thing i forgot: you need to watch that only the metal part of the brush is sunk inside the airbrush cleaner - if you stick it down to the wooden part the wood gets soaked and this will damage it
I enjoyed the format and would watch more! All the tutorials and painting tips videos I've seen, and still I was able to get something new that I didn't know before. Great Job!
That was a nice video...too many people talk about prestigious brands vs cheap brands and prestigious materials vs cheap materials, not enough get into the subjective side of what makes a brush work with how you paint rather than fighting against you the whole time: belly size, bristle stiffness, bristle length, snapping action, capillary action/paint release, tip angle, etc.
sam's comment about the moisture in the reservoir keeping the tip wet is so true. a year or two ago i bought the smallest brush the local michaels had in stock, a 20/0 spotter, intending to use it for eyes etc--but quickly realized that half the time, the tiny drop of paint on the end was drying out before i even got to the model. ive since kind of managed to bludgeon it into submission through generous use of acrylic retarder but a decent larger brush with a good point on the tip would certainly be easier
Okay, but what about filberts, and round? Angles and others that aren't pointed* -- definitely need to keep them clean and properly maintained, depending on material.
@@brendanmatthews8236 The point of specialist brushes is that they inhibit my ability to use the word point far too much, which is why they're pointless. I hope I'm pointing you towards an understanding of my point.
Oh, and they're on sale at Hobby Lobby this week! As a newbie painter, I was drawn to that size brush vs the tiny ones. Thanks for the videos, it makes starting a new hobby that much more fun.
So yes, I enjoyed this video quite a bit and would like to see more like it. I also very rarely throw out brushes and, when teaching my friend to paint, also told him to hang to brushes even when they start getting beaten up and ratty for things like stippling, dry-brushing, mixing paints, applying PVA glue, etc. When Sam started talking about the "life cycle" of brushes I found myself nodding my head.
This was a great video! I know I'm a little late to the party but I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in...I'd love to see more of this content from you and other creators! I love seeing the stuff you guys paint but what I really want is stuff that I can learn from rather than stuff that I "compare" myself to. I'll never be an award-winning painter and that's okay but seeing what can be done makes it difficult for me to be consistently happy with my own work. These types of discussions really help me understand the tools and techniques and motivate me to try them.
I like the format, it may not be my favorite, I'd have to see some more to be sure. But I think this one was very informative because you got into more of the why this choice or that choice is made (for example why he likes the synthetic bristles) rather than just saying, "I use cheap brushes and they're just fine". So I'd call this new format a success and this was a great video. Thank you both.
Always great tips from him. Wet palette improved my paint job immensely. Now I'm told why my walmart cheap brushes keep separating is because I put on too much paint. Always like listening to these two.
Great video with usable, valuable advice. I recently bought a moderately priced pack of brushes, from a discount department store, for well under the price of a single "leading game company's brush" and found the brushes from the pack to be just as, if not better than, the later brush. Now I feel rather sheepish for paying 10 dollars for a single brush.
I’ve got a bunch of GW starter brushes that I use for the bulk of my work. I’m not a Golden Daemon painter by any means but I find they suit me perfectly for what I need. Once I wear it out I repurpose it to a stirring brush, dry brush or something else.
I thought the video was great. I had never considered using conditioner on my brushes, but what you two said makes total sense. Your video got me thinking about the different techniques of painting, and how to effectively load the brush with paint with some of the earlier techniques, and what the effects of the different paint and water loads do to the paint itself. Anyway, you two offer so much insight into a hobby I have just started enjoying and I thank you for it!
Absolutely love this kind of video, it is every bit as helpful to me as a visual representation technique video. I find that there is a stage towards the end of my brushes lives where they get relegated to dry brush duty, because dry brushing, particularly with metallics, really takes a toll on a poor brush.
I am loving this experimental format! More of that plse. Great advice in there. I was a bit snobby about synthetics but I actually use them as my base coat brushes and even do some detail and layering work with them now. I keep my old Rosemary and Co. 0 brush around too for doing large flat areas like plates or muscles. My Raphael is for finer work and I've started using a dedicated brush for lifting paint out of pots when I'm not using dropper bottle stuff from my wet palette.
Im using a size 2 kolinsky sable brush from AK's Abteilung range. €6 and its just as good as any high end artist's brush I've ever used. Snappy bristles that hold a decent amount of paint and a nice sharp tip. I have a few old GW brushes for doing rough work or slopping on washes. Looking at AKs site now, they're all sold out..
I pretty much use the same cheap brushes for the grunt work like base painting or washes, but the sable brushes for detail and highlight. Its worked out! But I will have to start using the end of the paint brush instead of drawing paint using the bristles.
I'm a big fan of the series 33 from rosemary and Co. Yorkshire based company. Really nice sable brushes very similar quality to the fabled w&n series 7 but about £3-4 a brush
Loved this so much! I chatted with you, Atom, at Origins, and you really hit it out of the park with this. Please more like this. Really enjoyed both of your thoughts.
Great video. I think I have found the brushes I like. I’ve been using the brushes from Army Painter. I like the angular holder my hands don’t cramp as quick. Also to clean my brushes I use the brush shampoo and that works great too.
This is a great video that just showed up in my feed. Great Q&A. I like my hobby lobby size 8 craft brushes where I can use them, and fancy Raphael 8404s when details are needed.
Noob getting back into paint after over a decade. Just ordered all 3 sets from Artis Opus. Glad I watched this. Find the perfect, springy synthetic brush for 80% of the job makes me feel better about my pricy purchase
I don't often "like" videos... This one got a thumbs up from me. Love the chit chat format (it's always fun to see your friendship with Sam on film). My suggestion for another one... When to switch different types of paint. For example, you have the same color blue in Citadel and Air Brush paint (that you aren't shooting through an air brush), why choose one over the other.
I enjoyed this a lot. These videos will be nice as an occasional treat. I would still like the solo Atom to be the bulk of the videos. SamHulk is the chillest there is.
I have a veritable horde of various brushes I've accumulated over the years. I REALLY only use something like 5 or 6 of them regularly, with the rest being circumstantial brushes. None are really expensive, even though I check Amazon from time to time to put expensive brushes in my cart and then never buy them. Also, that hair tie around the water cup idea is some serious simple genius stuff. I immediately copied the idea and moved my brushes.
Great video format, getting the experience from Sam is always eye opening. I started using bigger brushes after the video you made with the interview and it helps a lot!
I own three Windsor Newton series 7 brushes. Sizes 0, 1, 2. I clean them with Vallejo brush cleaner. They have lasted three years now. I’m sold. Never use anything else.
I don't know what I am doing wrong by winsor newton no7 never, ever keep a point for me....I use the bristle brush, I don't get paint into the ferrule, ive looked everywhere for guidance. I use Raphael and escoda brushes now and love them....its a shame, I really want to love the w&n as loads of people rave about them.
@@Vengeance161 Yes I use the masters brush n soap tub. I don't doubt its an operator error on my part as its happened to me several times, across sizes 1,0,00, but the others I mentioned last for ages. I just don't get what it is im doing wrong. They are all cleaned and conditioned during/after every painting session and all have the plastic sleeves for protection. I have tried it wiping, blotting and air drying, Ive tried washing the conditioner out and leaving it in, always the same. After a few weeks the W&N lose their points and end up splayed out to the 4 winds, lol.
It took me many years to understand that the fine point is more important than having small and short bristles. My favourite brush for devils nowadays is about 3 times as big as the fine detail brush I used for the longest time. However, even though I am usually critical of people saying a certain brand is the be all end all, I did give the series 7 a shot and absolutely love the control I have with them.
"Winsor & Newton Sceptre gold II" are really good , they are a mix of synthetic and red marter. Royal Talens van Gogh are good synthetic brushes. both won't brake the bank and get good results
They both have pleasant speaking voices. I don't actually care that much about the subject matter, I'm just like halfway interested in painting minis that don't look like they were painted in a dumpster fire on top of a tornado but I find myself watching these just to hear them say things I don't really even care to know lol
I was stoked to find out that Sam digs the same brushes that I do. I tried so many before those, and was supervised to find the $6 pack at hobby lobby was my go to. Now I know I'm not crazy!
I use a mixed of brushes depending on what I am painting, 15mm, 6mm or 28mm. For dry brushing I buy the pack of six brushes, most other work I find the Army Painter brushes good, as well, I also use GW. Winsor and Newton brushes for my 28mm character models, I do spend alot of time cleaning these brushes. Thanks for this very good item gentlermen
Uncle Atom, love the diversity of topics on your channel! Please convince Sam that if he started a channel it would be a huge compliment to yours. I use rubbing alcohol to clean my synthetic brushes. Brings them right back!
Enjoyed the chat video with you and Sam. Very helpful knowledge. Hope you'll have more. I recently bought a couple of Windsor & Newton brushes a 0 and 1, haven't used them enough to form an opinion yet, but I heard they are like the "Gold Standard" for painting mini's, I always used much less expensive brushes before and wanted to see if this would make painting better and easier with the natural hair brushes.
I know this one is an old video, but I just wanted to share a tip I learned from doing watercolour. Obv. don't use your best brush for frisket and masking fluid, but if you cover your chosen brush in dishwashing liquid or hand soap before you use it to apply the frisket, your brush will be okay. You can remove the dried frisket and the rinse out the soap.
Love the chat video idea! For brushes, I can not recommend the army painter regiment brush highly enough. It’s my go to for nearly everything. I’d like to get a few nicer sable brushes but after seeing what our friend Sam uses I’ve been mostly using craft pack brushes I’ve found at Walmart and a few army painter brand brushes.
Monument Bomb wicks. The igniters are he sable brushes and they also have synthetic guys as well. They are great work horse brushes that hold a good point and are reasonably priced.
I used to have problems with my brushes splitting a lot. My fault, obviously. Then I tried to restore a bad one with airbrush cleaner bath and once I got the paint wrestled from the "root" it fixed the brush. It was not just as good as new but almost. Got to try that conditioner thing.
I got a brush set about two years ago from a brand called Eboot. They're Chinese synthetic Sable but they're super durable. I'm not an insane detail painter but they put paint roughly where I think it should go. They hold paint as well as the natural fiber brushes I've had and they have nice little sculpted handles to make them easier to manage. I think they cost $13 for a set of rounds 3-000 and a pair of small fans. I'd highly recommend them to folks looking to get away from $5 hobby brand brushes.
Thanks for the great content. I personally am very fond of Escoda brushes They aren't expensive, and last awhile with proper care. I find other synthetics, don't last me long, no matter how well I care for them. I always clean my brushes with rubbing alcohol followed with The Master's brush soap/conditioner. I have found this process to give the brushes a really deep clean, and as mentioned they keep longer.
Nice video and good info. I've recently started using Escoda Prada synthetic brushes in size 4 and 8. I love these brushes - great point and really seem to hold paint well. I've also got a Winsor Newton sable size 2 and 0/1 and find the Escoda synthetic just as good. Yeah, these synthetics are about $8-10 CAD each, but still feels worth it.
www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Gold-Nylon-Round-Paint-Brushes---5-Piece-Set/p/19496 They aren't golden Taklon they are "the Fine Touch". and apparently it is the size 9 because he points at the biggest one.
I have a variety of brushes. I use cheap synthetic brushes for base coats but found I wear them out very quickly. I hate the way the synthetics get a little hook in the end. I also have a variety of Kolinsky sable brushes from different manufacturers, however I have found I use one brush for everything from laying down paint to fine detail work and blending. My all time favorite is the size 1 daVinci Maestro 35. It has a fat belly and a nice long taper, it also has a firmness to it that I don’t find in other natural hair brushes. Wish I loved a cheaper brush 😩.
Learned to paint using the 5.99 Hobby Lobby synthetics. Currently I stick with my Rafael 8404 no 2. I have a 0 and 1. For whatever reason the no 1 wasnt up to snuff. I occasionally use it, but as you said Sam, I found the 2 has become my main use brush. Also, MORE VIDEOS LIKE this one
It’s great to hear the why thinking for the aim of using one way vs another. Along with the hair band setup, sounds quick & easy access while leveraging gravity to dry straight a little more. Lately have been experimenting with those acid brushes that only cost ~10 cents for rougher work like the mixes that have grit like sand in them for basing and painting/ washing them since it’s less accurate work with essentially sandpaper against the brush. Also can be good for working with glue. A question on working with the belly; seems like often when starting a painting session it can be going smooth with a bunch of paint loaded in a brush; though after a while even if water rinse the brush and try re-loading it up from the wet pallet it’s like it won’t load as much as the first time by a pretty noticeable amount. Say less than a third of what before. Any ideas what could be going on? The most noticeable when doing the repeat colors across a whole squad of guys or base detail coloring on a terrain piece. Any other tips for managing the brushes or paint when going for longer sessions? What are the best methods you have found for sharpening and wetting the brush tips other than eating paint?
I'll add that if you've found a brush that you love, don't use it with metallic paints. The fine metal pigments are, quite literally, little razor blades that accelerate the wear on the bristles. Find a decent synthetic you like with a good belly and tip, and use those, instead.
This is a very good point, unless you mainly just use cheap synthetics as your standard brush, I suppose. But fancy, expensive natural bristles are best kept away from metallics, for sure. Thanks for watching!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I love this kind of chit-chat videos... It's great help for us begginers. Than you 😄
Listening to Sam talk is like my own personal meditation tape.
Meditate, violently.
I always appreciate how humble Sam is. He is a great painter and knows all the fancy terms but doesn’t toss those terms out there to confuse us or make himself look superior. Great painters don’t need to tell you they’re great, and He gets it. Thanks for the video.
Very well said. I agree. Thanks for watching!
These 2 and Vince have helped me so much in my hobby journey. Love my Sam lenz brushes. My local hobby store recommended them and it saved me from falling into the pitfalls of buying brushes.
I have been painting miniatures for over 30 years, and have always been frustrated by brushes. This video helped me a lot! Thank you men!
And this went straight into my "Mini Painting Advice" playlist for when I need to share it with new hobbyists. Personally I really enjoy the Fine Touch teacher's pack of 30 synthetic brushes. The medium size round brush usually lasts me a month, and my hobby lobby often does 50% off. The pack is half rounds and half flats, and all those flat brushes just become my dry brushes.
I prefer the Windsor Newton brushes because they don’t mask the taste of the paint.
Comfy talk with friends is great! 😊
You two play off each other so well. And you're both fantastic painters!
Thank you for your insight and tips.
I appreciate it, but Sam’s the fantastic painter. I’m decently workable. Thanks for watching!
Cool video, would like to see more chats like this. As normal the answer is kind of it depends 🤣👍🏼thanks for the video!
Love it my painting has massively improved since I stopped going for fancy brushea and going with my gut
It took me a while to get used to fancy brushes. I actually prefer synthetics for doing things like edge highlights, sable brushes just seem to act weird on me.
MANILLA ROOOOOAD!!!!
90% of the Sam videos I watch to see what Metal shirt he is wearing. This one was by far the best so far. Crystal Logic is the shiiiit!
The content being good and informative is just a bonus ;)
Talked with Sam about the same thing during a painting class he was running. Great info and Sam is a great teacher.
i recently used the shade brush for basecoating, a whole new world opened up for me, the belly helps a lot
I still use the old citadel brushes which are blue ( they are even older than the yellow tipped Uncle Atom showed) and i dont use any expensive cleaners.
My trick is, to have a empty vallejo bottle without the tip and filled with with Airbrush Cleaner around. After the paint session i stick the 1-2 used brushes inside that bottle for 1h or until tomorrow . the bottle neck is thin enough that 2 brushes will sick inside without the brushtips hitting the bottle floor. This gets the still humid paint out of the bristles and ferule. After that i use some conditioner to get the a nice tip again.
One important thing i forgot: you need to watch that only the metal part of the brush is sunk inside the airbrush cleaner - if you stick it down to the wooden part the wood gets soaked and this will damage it
We love your videos! Anything with Sam is a humongous bonus! Thank you to both of you for having one of my favorite channels!
I enjoyed the format and would watch more! All the tutorials and painting tips videos I've seen, and still I was able to get something new that I didn't know before. Great Job!
We’re going to try to do more of these types of videos going forward, so hopefully those will be helpful, as well. Thanks for watching!
That was a nice video...too many people talk about prestigious brands vs cheap brands and prestigious materials vs cheap materials, not enough get into the subjective side of what makes a brush work with how you paint rather than fighting against you the whole time: belly size, bristle stiffness, bristle length, snapping action, capillary action/paint release, tip angle, etc.
sam's comment about the moisture in the reservoir keeping the tip wet is so true. a year or two ago i bought the smallest brush the local michaels had in stock, a 20/0 spotter, intending to use it for eyes etc--but quickly realized that half the time, the tiny drop of paint on the end was drying out before i even got to the model. ive since kind of managed to bludgeon it into submission through generous use of acrylic retarder but a decent larger brush with a good point on the tip would certainly be easier
You can also use Acrylic Medium to clean your brushes and break down old solidified pigment. (Or Lahmian Medium)
I like this format. Definitely keep exploring this style of video.
YES! I've been buying the same 4 pack of brushes for the one brush I use since forever. I need this!
It's not so much the size of the brush that's the issue, it's the ability of it to keep a good point.
Good point.
Kinda. Longer brushes have a softer "snap," so I find them a bit trickier to do edges with. But, when you're doing edges, you're not using the point.
That’s what she said.
Okay, but what about filberts, and round? Angles and others that aren't pointed* -- definitely need to keep them clean and properly maintained, depending on material.
@@brendanmatthews8236 The point of specialist brushes is that they inhibit my ability to use the word point far too much, which is why they're pointless. I hope I'm pointing you towards an understanding of my point.
Oh, and they're on sale at Hobby Lobby this week! As a newbie painter, I was drawn to that size brush vs the tiny ones. Thanks for the videos, it makes starting a new hobby that much more fun.
wow, fantastic video probably the most informative video on the miniature painting subject in the hobby ever! thank you so much!
Nice format! I could listen to you and Sam talk for days!! High intensity painting is apparently great exercise!
So yes, I enjoyed this video quite a bit and would like to see more like it.
I also very rarely throw out brushes and, when teaching my friend to paint, also told him to hang to brushes even when they start getting beaten up and ratty for things like stippling, dry-brushing, mixing paints, applying PVA glue, etc. When Sam started talking about the "life cycle" of brushes I found myself nodding my head.
This was a great video! I know I'm a little late to the party but I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in...I'd love to see more of this content from you and other creators! I love seeing the stuff you guys paint but what I really want is stuff that I can learn from rather than stuff that I "compare" myself to. I'll never be an award-winning painter and that's okay but seeing what can be done makes it difficult for me to be consistently happy with my own work. These types of discussions really help me understand the tools and techniques and motivate me to try them.
Thank you for this, love to hear not only what you use but WHY you use it.
I like the format, it may not be my favorite, I'd have to see some more to be sure. But I think this one was very informative because you got into more of the why this choice or that choice is made (for example why he likes the synthetic bristles) rather than just saying, "I use cheap brushes and they're just fine". So I'd call this new format a success and this was a great video. Thank you both.
Always great tips from him. Wet palette improved my paint job immensely. Now I'm told why my walmart cheap brushes keep separating is because I put on too much paint. Always like listening to these two.
Great video with usable, valuable advice. I recently bought a moderately priced pack of brushes, from a discount department store, for well under the price of a single "leading game company's brush" and found the brushes from the pack to be just as, if not better than, the later brush. Now I feel rather sheepish for paying 10 dollars for a single brush.
I highly recommend Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 1 / 2 brushes, they are quite literally all you need for detailed work.
I’ve got a bunch of GW starter brushes that I use for the bulk of my work. I’m not a Golden Daemon painter by any means but I find they suit me perfectly for what I need. Once I wear it out I repurpose it to a stirring brush, dry brush or something else.
Nice sit down and chat with Adam and Sam
More of these please.
I thought the video was great. I had never considered using conditioner on my brushes, but what you two said makes total sense. Your video got me thinking about the different techniques of painting, and how to effectively load the brush with paint with some of the earlier techniques, and what the effects of the different paint and water loads do to the paint itself. Anyway, you two offer so much insight into a hobby I have just started enjoying and I thank you for it!
Really good video that is candid. Simple and straight forward tips that I learned something from. Thanks Atom, and I hope you put more like this out.
I'm exactly the same, cheap synthetics for the dirty work and sable for the fancy times.
Absolutely love this kind of video, it is every bit as helpful to me as a visual representation technique video. I find that there is a stage towards the end of my brushes lives where they get relegated to dry brush duty, because dry brushing, particularly with metallics, really takes a toll on a poor brush.
This is extremely well timed for me.
This was a really great format/style, would like to see more. Also answered a lot of questions I'd been stuck with for quite some time.
I am loving this experimental format! More of that plse.
Great advice in there. I was a bit snobby about synthetics but I actually use them as my base coat brushes and even do some detail and layering work with them now. I keep my old Rosemary and Co. 0 brush around too for doing large flat areas like plates or muscles. My Raphael is for finer work and I've started using a dedicated brush for lifting paint out of pots when I'm not using dropper bottle stuff from my wet palette.
I use Raphael brushes. Love them
Im using a size 2 kolinsky sable brush from AK's Abteilung range. €6 and its just as good as any high end artist's brush I've ever used. Snappy bristles that hold a decent amount of paint and a nice sharp tip. I have a few old GW brushes for doing rough work or slopping on washes.
Looking at AKs site now, they're all sold out..
I pretty much use the same cheap brushes for the grunt work like base painting or washes, but the sable brushes for detail and highlight. Its worked out! But I will have to start using the end of the paint brush instead of drawing paint using the bristles.
I'm a big fan of the series 33 from rosemary and Co. Yorkshire based company. Really nice sable brushes very similar quality to the fabled w&n series 7 but about £3-4 a brush
I looked for these on Amazon as Sorastro uses them and i'm a big fan of his work.
@@ChimpingBulldog I've always bought rosemary and co direct
Came for tips. Left with a sweet brush pun. Thanks!
Loved this so much! I chatted with you, Atom, at Origins, and you really hit it out of the park with this. Please more like this. Really enjoyed both of your thoughts.
Great video. I think I have found the brushes I like. I’ve been using the brushes from Army Painter. I like the angular holder my hands don’t cramp as quick. Also to clean my brushes I use the brush shampoo and that works great too.
Man, i love my boy Sam. More of this please my man Atom.
So, if Sam is your boy and Uncle Atom is your man, then are you my auntie?
Thanks 4 that! :) As always, great fun to listen to you both :)
This is a great video that just showed up in my feed. Great Q&A. I like my hobby lobby size 8 craft brushes where I can use them, and fancy Raphael 8404s when details are needed.
Noob getting back into paint after over a decade. Just ordered all 3 sets from Artis Opus. Glad I watched this. Find the perfect, springy synthetic brush for 80% of the job makes me feel better about my pricy purchase
I don't often "like" videos... This one got a thumbs up from me. Love the chit chat format (it's always fun to see your friendship with Sam on film). My suggestion for another one... When to switch different types of paint. For example, you have the same color blue in Citadel and Air Brush paint (that you aren't shooting through an air brush), why choose one over the other.
I always thumbs up painting with the pro! - AJ
this really helps me the clear the mist! thank you
This is like brush science 101. Really good concepts here!
I enjoyed this a lot. These videos will be nice as an occasional treat. I would still like the solo Atom to be the bulk of the videos.
SamHulk is the chillest there is.
One of your best videos. Thank you for the insights.
I have a veritable horde of various brushes I've accumulated over the years. I REALLY only use something like 5 or 6 of them regularly, with the rest being circumstantial brushes. None are really expensive, even though I check Amazon from time to time to put expensive brushes in my cart and then never buy them.
Also, that hair tie around the water cup idea is some serious simple genius stuff. I immediately copied the idea and moved my brushes.
Great video, would love to see more sit and chat type videos.
Great video format, getting the experience from Sam is always eye opening. I started using bigger brushes after the video you made with the interview and it helps a lot!
I own three Windsor Newton series 7 brushes. Sizes 0, 1, 2. I clean them with Vallejo brush cleaner. They have lasted three years now. I’m sold. Never use anything else.
pbeccas Yeah, I’ve got sizes W&N 000, 0 and 2. They are fantastic brushes and as you say if you look after them they last years.
I don't know what I am doing wrong by winsor newton no7 never, ever keep a point for me....I use the bristle brush, I don't get paint into the ferrule, ive looked everywhere for guidance. I use Raphael and escoda brushes now and love them....its a shame, I really want to love the w&n as loads of people rave about them.
Andrew Kennedy Sound strange indeed. Do you use a brush cleaner/soap? I use it on the brush after every painting session.
@@Vengeance161 Yes I use the masters brush n soap tub. I don't doubt its an operator error on my part as its happened to me several times, across sizes 1,0,00, but the others I mentioned last for ages. I just don't get what it is im doing wrong. They are all cleaned and conditioned during/after every painting session and all have the plastic sleeves for protection. I have tried it wiping, blotting and air drying, Ive tried washing the conditioner out and leaving it in, always the same. After a few weeks the W&N lose their points and end up splayed out to the 4 winds, lol.
@@andrewkennedy9134 You probably got some bad brushes. WN has really fallen down in quality and they often split as yours are doing.
This video was great. Like to see more like this.
REALLY enjoyed this video, great discussion and learned a few things 👌🏼
Thanks for this.
It took me many years to understand that the fine point is more important than having small and short bristles. My favourite brush for devils nowadays is about 3 times as big as the fine detail brush I used for the longest time.
However, even though I am usually critical of people saying a certain brand is the be all end all, I did give the series 7 a shot and absolutely love the control I have with them.
I loved this video...very informative for someone getting into the hobby
We did both drink from iced coffee from the local coffee shop, so you’re right, we had just partaken some of that. Thanks for watching!
"Winsor & Newton Sceptre gold II" are really good , they are a mix of synthetic and red marter. Royal Talens van Gogh are good synthetic brushes. both won't brake the bank and get good results
Please keep these coming. Grate help! If able pls also include links to supplies.
Love the Sam tip videos , big help and inspiration
I didn’t think i would like this video, but damn Adam i just love hearing you talk 😊. Keep up the great work!
They both have pleasant speaking voices. I don't actually care that much about the subject matter, I'm just like halfway interested in painting minis that don't look like they were painted in a dumpster fire on top of a tornado but I find myself watching these just to hear them say things I don't really even care to know lol
I was stoked to find out that Sam digs the same brushes that I do. I tried so many before those, and was supervised to find the $6 pack at hobby lobby was my go to. Now I know I'm not crazy!
I use a mixed of brushes depending on what I am painting, 15mm, 6mm or 28mm. For dry brushing I buy the pack of six brushes, most other work I find the Army Painter brushes good, as well, I also use GW. Winsor and Newton brushes for my 28mm character models, I do spend alot of time cleaning these brushes. Thanks for this very good item gentlermen
I always want more Sam Lenz
Uncle Atom, love the diversity of topics on your channel! Please convince Sam that if he started a channel it would be a huge compliment to yours. I use rubbing alcohol to clean my synthetic brushes. Brings them right back!
Sam and I discussed this very thing during shooting. Potentially more to come soon. However, you know he’s on Twitch, right? Thanks for watching!
Great video, Thanks guys! Very informative and fun.
Enjoyed the chat video with you and Sam. Very helpful knowledge. Hope you'll have more. I recently bought a couple of Windsor & Newton brushes a 0 and 1, haven't used them enough to form an opinion yet, but I heard they are like the "Gold Standard" for painting mini's, I always used much less expensive brushes before and wanted to see if this would make painting better and easier with the natural hair brushes.
I have both expensive and cheap brushes... I find I use the cheap ones way more. I like watching you guys talk about our hobby. Do more :)
I know this one is an old video, but I just wanted to share a tip I learned from doing watercolour. Obv. don't use your best brush for frisket and masking fluid, but if you cover your chosen brush in dishwashing liquid or hand soap before you use it to apply the frisket, your brush will be okay. You can remove the dried frisket and the rinse out the soap.
Nice video! I like this format.
Had recently come to the realisation that I was often using the wrong tool for the job, thanks for clearing things up guys!
Love the chat video idea! For brushes, I can not recommend the army painter regiment brush highly enough. It’s my go to for nearly everything. I’d like to get a few nicer sable brushes but after seeing what our friend Sam uses I’ve been mostly using craft pack brushes I’ve found at Walmart and a few army painter brand brushes.
I have a bunch of Army Painter brushes as well, and I really enjoy them. Thanks for watching!
Man, Sam got huge! 💪🏻
(I come from watching videos from years ago, so that’s why I’m so surprised 😂)
Monument Bomb wicks. The igniters are he sable brushes and they also have synthetic guys as well. They are great work horse brushes that hold a good point and are reasonably priced.
I used to have problems with my brushes splitting a lot. My fault, obviously. Then I tried to restore a bad one with airbrush cleaner bath and once I got the paint wrestled from the "root" it fixed the brush. It was not just as good as new but almost.
Got to try that conditioner thing.
Going to try one of those larger synthetic brushes. Been using tiny ones for too long I think.
I got a brush set about two years ago from a brand called Eboot. They're Chinese synthetic Sable but they're super durable. I'm not an insane detail painter but they put paint roughly where I think it should go. They hold paint as well as the natural fiber brushes I've had and they have nice little sculpted handles to make them easier to manage. I think they cost $13 for a set of rounds 3-000 and a pair of small fans. I'd highly recommend them to folks looking to get away from $5 hobby brand brushes.
Thanks for the great content. I personally am very fond of Escoda brushes They aren't expensive, and last awhile with proper care. I find other synthetics, don't last me long, no matter how well I care for them. I always clean my brushes with rubbing alcohol followed with The Master's brush soap/conditioner. I have found this process to give the brushes a really deep clean, and as mentioned they keep longer.
Nice video and good info. I've recently started using Escoda Prada synthetic brushes in size 4 and 8. I love these brushes - great point and really seem to hold paint well. I've also got a Winsor Newton sable size 2 and 0/1 and find the Escoda synthetic just as good. Yeah, these synthetics are about $8-10 CAD each, but still feels worth it.
@1:35...what size is that one? It's Golden Taklon, but what size specifically?
www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Brushes/Gold-Nylon-Round-Paint-Brushes---5-Piece-Set/p/19496 They aren't golden Taklon they are "the Fine Touch". and apparently it is the size 9 because he points at the biggest one.
@@andrewweber958 Thanks!
I have a variety of brushes. I use cheap synthetic brushes for base coats but found I wear them out very quickly. I hate the way the synthetics get a little hook in the end. I also have a variety of Kolinsky sable brushes from different manufacturers, however I have found I use one brush for everything from laying down paint to fine detail work and blending. My all time favorite is the size 1 daVinci Maestro 35. It has a fat belly and a nice long taper, it also has a firmness to it that I don’t find in other natural hair brushes. Wish I loved a cheaper brush 😩.
Amazing! Thank you.
MOAR!
I use cheap brushes from Hobbycraft they do the trick and I can use them for basing or varnishing when they start to break down 👍
Learned to paint using the 5.99 Hobby Lobby synthetics. Currently I stick with my Rafael 8404 no 2. I have a 0 and 1. For whatever reason the no 1 wasnt up to snuff. I occasionally use it, but as you said Sam, I found the 2 has become my main use brush.
Also, MORE VIDEOS LIKE this one
Good stuff. I do the same - inexpensive synthetics for most of the work, size 8 mostly, save my W&N S7 for flesh, faces, freehand detailing.
It’s great to hear the why thinking for the aim of using one way vs another. Along with the hair band setup, sounds quick & easy access while leveraging gravity to dry straight a little more.
Lately have been experimenting with those acid brushes that only cost ~10 cents for rougher work like the mixes that have grit like sand in them for basing and painting/ washing them since it’s less accurate work with essentially sandpaper against the brush. Also can be good for working with glue.
A question on working with the belly; seems like often when starting a painting session it can be going smooth with a bunch of paint loaded in a brush; though after a while even if water rinse the brush and try re-loading it up from the wet pallet it’s like it won’t load as much as the first time by a pretty noticeable amount. Say less than a third of what before. Any ideas what could be going on? The most noticeable when doing the repeat colors across a whole squad of guys or base detail coloring on a terrain piece.
Any other tips for managing the brushes or paint when going for longer sessions?
What are the best methods you have found for sharpening and wetting the brush tips other than eating paint?
This was definitely helpful!
I'll add that if you've found a brush that you love, don't use it with metallic paints. The fine metal pigments are, quite literally, little razor blades that accelerate the wear on the bristles. Find a decent synthetic you like with a good belly and tip, and use those, instead.
This is a very good point, unless you mainly just use cheap synthetics as your standard brush, I suppose. But fancy, expensive natural bristles are best kept away from metallics, for sure. Thanks for watching!
That might be why I seem to be going through brushes so quickly. I've been painting a lot of medieval dudes with varying degrees of armor.