Ive been involved with mtn bikes since 1982 I'm 62 years old and totally agree with you about racing anything lighter is better. Rotating weight more so than static weight. Very simple more weight is hard to get moving takes longer to stop and is harder for suspension to control. I'm new building drift cars but built my fair share of crawlers. I'm learning lots from you and thanks for your efforts.
I understand why people put weight in the front of their MST chassis (to counter the understeer thats built into the car) but I will never understand why you would need weight in the back given where the weight is located on the chassis already. This is a great money saving tip for those using the MST chassis.
@@RoadsideRC I don't agree with them putting it in the car, I just understand it. It's easier to buy the turn buckles and tune the under steer out but like you said genuine MST parts can be expensive.
I’ve been racing touring cars for at least 15 years when we have a minimum weight in some classes ballast weight is required and placement of weight does have different effects on different surfaces.
found this same chassis kit on aliexpress for $38 and had to order it after seeing this just hopefully everything fits as nice as yours! you never know about quality control with these but for the price i couldn’t pass it up!
@@ode4492 yeah mine came in and i’ve been running it for a while now, bolts up perfect and looks good. Pretty stiff deck but that’s fine with me you could run no top rails if you wanted its strong enough to support to weight. Definitely worth the $38
So now im looking at new chassis's for a car ive had for a few days 😂 thanks for all the info Troy! Question: woould i need a custom chassis to do an interior? All the best brother
Just started getting into drift and I'm curious, are you physically using the brake or using drag brake before you enter the corner? I'll be getting my first RWD drifter next week (Yokomo YD-2S). Thanks for the great videos.
@5:33 - I wonder if you can remove those 2 carbon fiber bars without seriously affecting the performance of the vehicle because I am interested to adding as much interior details (to make it look like a real car)... but they are in the way.
@@RoadsideRC thanks bud, I just recently got the same car. I have the red Mustang widebody. The MST stealth magnetic post are on back order at AMain. I didn’t want to drill that beautiful body. I’ll try these out appreciate it. 🙏👍
Was this chassis upgrade worth it? I recently just got into rwd drifting with a mst 2.0, watched a lot of your videos. Wondering if this chassis upgrade is truly beneficial? And what would be an awesome alignment spec to start learning
Alignment: 100% leave it as it comes from the box. Only start messing with alignment after MANY HOURS of driving and when you are trying to fix a specific issue. Otherwise, you are just confusing things. The chassis: 100% worth it. Removing weight will always make the car perform better.
Are you still running the carbon chassis or have you moved to a different one? Looking to see what carbon chassis is good out there and why. Not many videos on the subject
So i have been adjusting my settings for drifting. I purchased a similar setup from Futaba like you have in your other MST video. But somehow somewhere I have messed up reverse. Where do I go to readjust so my reverse works.
You need to: 1) ensure your throttle channel trim is set to zero 2) re-calibrate the ESC. Very simple, follow the ESC manual that you can find on the MST website.
Think about why that was though!! It was because of they were trying to fix the otherwise poor weight balance of the car. If they could have made the heavy side lighter - they certainly would have.
@@RoadsideRC a bit vague. I was hoping for more impute. Do you dislike it only because of the cost? I’m guessing after watching this video maybe the weight would be an issue. Your videos seem more budget minded. Im not new into RC hobby but new into drifting. I preordered the new yokomo md 2.0 a gyd550, hobby xd10 pro esc with motor. I’m not a rtr fan so I build. Buy once cry once instead of having to upgrade later anyway. I like your channel good info. 👍
@freerangehuman7016 You hit the nail on the head! 99% of the questions I get are, "I have $100 and want to get started in RWD drifting - what do I do?" Or, "I've never touched an RC car before but want to start...how do I?" That means a focus on the easiest way to get started. Plus, Ii have drifted with folks who have huge $$$$ tied up in their cars...and it seems performance is mostly around the tune and driving style. Yes - the shark final form looks AMAZING. Yes, my estimate is that it is also HEAVY and might leave some performance on the table with that. I've thought of picking up the new MD2.0 and doing a more "high-budget" build. We will see.
Sorry - I guess I really didn't put it in there? Doh! It is 100% recommended. The kit goes together smoothly, looks great, and saves some weight. Would certainly recommend it to anyone with an RMX.
I did a lot of experimenting with different batteries. Ranged from 5200mah full size, 4000mah shorties, to 1300mah packs. Huge difference in car handling. Less weight the car seems to float... more weight it feels planted. I think for my $60 - $70, you'd be better off buying different batteries and experimenting with battery weight and placement.
Physic told us heavier vehicles require longer distance to stop due to the weight, I'm sure we all have seen a movie scene of a truck skidding sideways taking forever to stop. Heavier vehicles will have the potential for longer and steeper angle for drift, all depends on the size of the track and surface. Also it can also give more realistic movement at the cost of function. The guys looking for realism don't care about function.
Your theory on a long and steeper angle of drift is interesting. That is certainly not something I have experienced. Whether in 1:1 or 1:10, the competitors are targeting a lower weight to improve performance. Perhaps in your scenario the longer drift and steeper angle isn't a sign kf greater performance?
@@RoadsideRC 1:1 cars are generally over weight and under powered to begin with, and removing weight in a street car is always a performance gain. While RC is the complete opposite generally under weight and a 10.5T motor is like a giant Tesla motor with outrageous amount power that if it's in a 1:1 equivalent it would go 0-500mph in 2 second and that amount of Torque the engine will likely rip itself out of the car. Then we're not playing by the same traction rules because 1:1 cars are running rubber while rc drift tires are mostly plastic. Take a look at this video of the D-Like brand ua-cam.com/video/UsUC2UxyAY0/v-deo.html these japanese guys are obsess with weight shift for realism, they have a hybrid RWD vehicle but the front drive pulley remains in the front with no dog bone so it is a RWD, I think for gyroscoping effect or something, I don't know, he even taped weights under his body shell. but you can see at the end of the video, the way the car drift looks amazing.
100% agree. Those folks are very concerned with realism - and it is awesome to watch! That does not mean their extra weight correlates to a better performing car - which is what I was asking about with your comment.
@Roadside RC well if you push 10 vs 1 lbs weight on ice travelling at the exact same speed and let go, which one will stop at greater distance. 10 weight will have stronger traction which will slow it down and greater inertia / momentum which will make it go further 1 weight will have less traction which will make to go further but but lower inertia / momentum which will make it go slower i guess at some point too much weight will be bad and also at some point too little weight is also bad, it's a battle between the traction and inertia if the inertia is too little, the car won't stay side ways at high angles for long.
Thanks for reply I will probably buy some upgrades you recommended in other videos for when it does come back in stock keep up the good work shout out from ireland
@@RoadsideRC what's up troy iv watched all of your drift videos .I was looking to get rtr rmx but cannot get it anywhere iv decided to get the kit and build myself iv decided to go with what you recommend .I just wanted to run some items by you gyd450.zoskay20k servo.absolute1 motor . Hobbywing xr10esc.futaba 3pv . I'm going to order these parts tomorrow. I'm looking for some feedback as to weather these will all work together then next week I will get everything else I need any feedback will be great thanks
@@carlhamilton6932 That is a solid setup for sure. One thing you could do, is spend a little less on your motor, and transfer that money to a better servo. The Absolute1 is good, but I had just as good of results with a $50 Amazon motor. I have a couple videos showing them. Instead, you can then buy the ReveD RS-ST servo and still be spending the total same $$$
@@RoadsideRC yeah iv seen those video's I kinda new the servo could be better so I might just do that thank you for input iv learned a lot from your channel keep up the good work thanks a mil
don't clown me bc i don't even have a drift car yet lol but how did u just flip it upside down and replace the bottom plate without everything falling out
VERY CAREFULLY!!! :) A lot of the parts are connected together in other ways, so it mostly holds together - as long as you don't move it much. The biggest issue is the suspension mounting points. Those fall apart easily.
Dont think its so much about outright adding weight but the balance of weight, if my car were to handle better with a 50/50 front to back distribution of weight and i couldnt move the components i already have any further then the option im left with is to add weight into the specific areas. Weight does correlate to grip so correct weight setup for different applications is important
I guess I didn't!!! Doh! Reducing the weight has made the car faster overall. Pulls harder coming out of the corners, goes through corners faster. This car is still rather basic, but keeps up with most of the higher $$$ cars in my area.
Ive been involved with mtn bikes since 1982 I'm 62 years old and totally agree with you about racing anything lighter is better. Rotating weight more so than static weight. Very simple more weight is hard to get moving takes longer to stop and is harder for suspension to control. I'm new building drift cars but built my fair share of crawlers. I'm learning lots from you and thanks for your efforts.
Great! Thank you for the kind words, and glad the videos have been helpful!
I understand why people put weight in the front of their MST chassis (to counter the understeer thats built into the car) but I will never understand why you would need weight in the back given where the weight is located on the chassis already. This is a great money saving tip for those using the MST chassis.
See, I disagree with front weight also!
@@RoadsideRC I don't agree with them putting it in the car, I just understand it. It's easier to buy the turn buckles and tune the under steer out but like you said genuine MST parts can be expensive.
I’ve been racing touring cars for at least 15 years when we have a minimum weight in some classes ballast weight is required and placement of weight does have different effects on different surfaces.
Thanks for the feedback!
Have you tried drifting?
Ha! Amazon just suggested this chassis to me this morning. Glad you made a video about it.
That is super convenient...and creepy... :)
I just got that same one from aliexpress. It eorks real nice and I stress tested the heck out of it with a gnarly crash. Stronger than it looks!
Great to know!
found this same chassis kit on aliexpress for $38 and had to order it after seeing this just hopefully everything fits as nice as yours! you never know about quality control with these but for the price i couldn’t pass it up!
My thoughts exactly!!!
Any update on this CF chassis kit from Aliexpress???
@@ode4492 yeah mine came in and i’ve been running it for a while now, bolts up perfect and looks good. Pretty stiff deck but that’s fine with me you could run no top rails if you wanted its strong enough to support to weight. Definitely worth the $38
That's sweet ...! I like that . I may go with one of those to get started .love the carbon fiber.
Me too!
I love how light it is. And this is rather cost effective also.
My SCX10iii looks good posted up at that track. ☺️
It really did!
Looked awesome I'm going to share this video to my buddy I think he will be getting one
Awesome!
Thanks!
Awesome video! Do you know if this will fit on the mst 2.5 rtr can only find this chassis for 2.0 thank you
Yes! 2.0 and 2.5 share the same chassis.
@@RoadsideRC thank you 👍👍
So now im looking at new chassis's for a car ive had for a few days 😂 thanks for all the info Troy! Question: woould i need a custom chassis to do an interior? All the best brother
Hi there! Glad to help.
Interiors are typically fully custom created. There is not a specific chassis to use to have one.
@@RoadsideRC alright! Thank you man! That makes me happy to hear 😁
Just started getting into drift and I'm curious, are you physically using the brake or using drag brake before you enter the corner? I'll be getting my first RWD drifter next week (Yokomo YD-2S). Thanks for the great videos.
I am not a fan of drag brake, but some folks really like it.
I suggest trying both and seeing which you like more.
Yooo 2here you from
How can I tell if my springs are over sprung? Should I do an adjustment after installing the kit?
You watch your suspension movement. Do you have ability to travel both up and down with the weight transfer of the car? That is your goal.
That is a nice kit, looks like it was handling good still
Yes it was!
Thanks!
Thats a nice kit 👌 very nice build and a great test run on the track 👍 it done really well 👍 hope you and your family have a blessed Christmas bro 🎄 🙏
Thank you!
Happy Holidays to you also!
@5:33 - I wonder if you can remove those 2 carbon fiber bars without seriously affecting the performance of the vehicle because I am interested to adding as much interior details (to make it look like a real car)... but they are in the way.
I believe you can.
The chassis will flex more, but some people like it that way.
I’ve been enjoying your channel. Just curious what magnetic body post are you running?
Thank you!
It is not thus exact kit, but the same idea:
amzn.to/3GZMZiR
@@RoadsideRC thanks bud, I just recently got the same car. I have the red Mustang widebody. The MST stealth magnetic post are on back order at AMain. I didn’t want to drill that beautiful body. I’ll try these out appreciate it. 🙏👍
Was this chassis upgrade worth it? I recently just got into rwd drifting with a mst 2.0, watched a lot of your videos. Wondering if this chassis upgrade is truly beneficial? And what would be an awesome alignment spec to start learning
Alignment: 100% leave it as it comes from the box. Only start messing with alignment after MANY HOURS of driving and when you are trying to fix a specific issue. Otherwise, you are just confusing things.
The chassis: 100% worth it. Removing weight will always make the car perform better.
Im reduce my rc weight to make it easy to drive and drift.. im agree with your opinion..
Thank you!
Awesome video excellent upgrades definitely looks great drifting very nice
It does do great! Thanks!
amazing video man, keep spreading drifting information!
I will keep trying!
Really enjoy your videos! 😉✌️
Thanks!
sweet. nothing like a carbon upgrade!
Less weight...and not much cost! Win-win!
Are you still running the carbon chassis or have you moved to a different one? Looking to see what carbon chassis is good out there and why. Not many videos on the subject
Yes! Still running it and very happy with it.
I go to them for the weight reduction. Nothing more complicated than that.
@@RoadsideRC Thanks for the feedback 👍
So i have been adjusting my settings for drifting. I purchased a similar setup from Futaba like you have in your other MST video. But somehow somewhere I have messed up reverse. Where do I go to readjust so my reverse works.
You need to:
1) ensure your throttle channel trim is set to zero
2) re-calibrate the ESC. Very simple, follow the ESC manual that you can find on the MST website.
@@RoadsideRC Thank you so much!! Your such a nice and helpful guy. I hope you have many blessings in your life sir.
What camera did you use for the footage at the end? That was sweeeeet
Here you go!
This camera, with the included mount!
amzn.to/3yICfmg
Fun fact about adding weight to cars, early Porsche 911s had cast iron weights to help with handling, guess it’s not so much of a bad idea 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Think about why that was though!!
It was because of they were trying to fix the otherwise poor weight balance of the car. If they could have made the heavy side lighter - they certainly would have.
So I have been looking at this stuff. But I wonder if it would fit the FXX. Looks pretty awesome Troy and nice run.. ;)
Good question!
I don't think so, as the FXX should use different mounting holes.
@@RoadsideRC Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Thanks Troy
What is your opinion on the rhino racing shark final form chassis?
VERY expensive...that is my take on it.
@@RoadsideRC a bit vague. I was hoping for more impute. Do you dislike it only because of the cost? I’m guessing after watching this video maybe the weight would be an issue. Your videos seem more budget minded. Im not new into RC hobby but new into drifting. I preordered the new yokomo md 2.0 a gyd550, hobby xd10 pro esc with motor. I’m not a rtr fan so I build. Buy once cry once instead of having to upgrade later anyway. I like your channel good info. 👍
@freerangehuman7016 You hit the nail on the head! 99% of the questions I get are, "I have $100 and want to get started in RWD drifting - what do I do?" Or, "I've never touched an RC car before but want to start...how do I?"
That means a focus on the easiest way to get started.
Plus, Ii have drifted with folks who have huge $$$$ tied up in their cars...and it seems performance is mostly around the tune and driving style.
Yes - the shark final form looks AMAZING. Yes, my estimate is that it is also HEAVY and might leave some performance on the table with that.
I've thought of picking up the new MD2.0 and doing a more "high-budget" build. We will see.
@@RoadsideRC well keep up the great work I think you’re making some great videos.
So what's your verdict? I expected it on the end of the video...
Sorry - I guess I really didn't put it in there? Doh!
It is 100% recommended. The kit goes together smoothly, looks great, and saves some weight. Would certainly recommend it to anyone with an RMX.
@@RoadsideRC did you feel any difference when drifting? I don't have a RMX. just curious about stiff vs. sloppy chassis :)
@@zeDoSauRus It is hard to tell honestly. What I feel instead of stiffness is the reduced weight. The car just feels more nimble.
@@RoadsideRC yeah I stepped down from a 5000mAh battery to a 3500, what a difference :)
I did a lot of experimenting with different batteries. Ranged from 5200mah full size, 4000mah shorties, to 1300mah packs. Huge difference in car handling. Less weight the car seems to float... more weight it feels planted. I think for my $60 - $70, you'd be better off buying different batteries and experimenting with battery weight and placement.
looks a good upgrade to reduce the weight
*a full watch👍🎄Au🎅thumbs up*
Yes sir! Looks good as a bonus!
how do you setup this suspention
There is a LONG answer to that question.
Please look through my videos, you will find some drift suspension setups.
Physic told us heavier vehicles require longer distance to stop due to the weight, I'm sure we all have seen a movie scene of a truck skidding sideways taking forever to stop.
Heavier vehicles will have the potential for longer and steeper angle for drift, all depends on the size of the track and surface.
Also it can also give more realistic movement at the cost of function. The guys looking for realism don't care about function.
Your theory on a long and steeper angle of drift is interesting. That is certainly not something I have experienced.
Whether in 1:1 or 1:10, the competitors are targeting a lower weight to improve performance.
Perhaps in your scenario the longer drift and steeper angle isn't a sign kf greater performance?
@@RoadsideRC 1:1 cars are generally over weight and under powered to begin with, and removing weight in a street car is always a performance gain. While RC is the complete opposite generally under weight and a 10.5T motor is like a giant Tesla motor with outrageous amount power that if it's in a 1:1 equivalent it would go 0-500mph in 2 second and that amount of Torque the engine will likely rip itself out of the car. Then we're not playing by the same traction rules because 1:1 cars are running rubber while rc drift tires are mostly plastic.
Take a look at this video of the D-Like brand ua-cam.com/video/UsUC2UxyAY0/v-deo.html these japanese guys are obsess with weight shift for realism, they have a hybrid RWD vehicle but the front drive pulley remains in the front with no dog bone so it is a RWD, I think for gyroscoping effect or something, I don't know, he even taped weights under his body shell. but you can see at the end of the video, the way the car drift looks amazing.
100% agree.
Those folks are very concerned with realism - and it is awesome to watch!
That does not mean their extra weight correlates to a better performing car - which is what I was asking about with your comment.
@Roadside RC well if you push 10 vs 1 lbs weight on ice travelling at the exact same speed and let go, which one will stop at greater distance.
10 weight will have stronger traction which will slow it down and greater inertia / momentum which will make it go further
1 weight will have less traction which will make to go further but but lower inertia / momentum which will make it go slower
i guess at some point too much weight will be bad and also at some point too little weight is also bad, it's a battle between the traction and inertia
if the inertia is too little, the car won't stay side ways at high angles for long.
Chassis is worth it 👌
I think so!
Mine only came with 4 washers and 5 nuts 😂 it's the same one but from aliexpress for 25€
Ha!
Would this work with a 2.5?
Yes! My understanding is they are the same chassis.
@RoadsideRC okay, thank you. I appreciate your response, especially on an older video.
Can you recommend any other cars as good as this can not get one of these anywhere
Just have patience, this comes back in stock regularly.
There is not another RTR as good as this one.
Thanks for reply I will probably buy some upgrades you recommended in other videos for when it does come back in stock keep up the good work shout out from ireland
@@RoadsideRC what's up troy iv watched all of your drift videos .I was looking to get rtr rmx but cannot get it anywhere iv decided to get the kit and build myself iv decided to go with what you recommend .I just wanted to run some items by you gyd450.zoskay20k servo.absolute1 motor . Hobbywing xr10esc.futaba 3pv . I'm going to order these parts tomorrow. I'm looking for some feedback as to weather these will all work together then next week I will get everything else I need any feedback will be great thanks
@@carlhamilton6932 That is a solid setup for sure.
One thing you could do, is spend a little less on your motor, and transfer that money to a better servo.
The Absolute1 is good, but I had just as good of results with a $50 Amazon motor. I have a couple videos showing them.
Instead, you can then buy the ReveD RS-ST servo and still be spending the total same $$$
@@RoadsideRC yeah iv seen those video's I kinda new the servo could be better so I might just do that thank you for input iv learned a lot from your channel keep up the good work thanks a mil
don't clown me bc i don't even have a drift car yet lol but how did u just flip it upside down and replace the bottom plate without everything falling out
VERY CAREFULLY!!! :)
A lot of the parts are connected together in other ways, so it mostly holds together - as long as you don't move it much.
The biggest issue is the suspension mounting points. Those fall apart easily.
@@RoadsideRC got it thank you, me and some buddy's plan on getting the rmx and ur vids have been awesome
I hate that people bandage tuning with weight. It tends to make other issues arise in one tune
I agree!
Weight is needed in crawling, not drifting
I agree!!!!
buen viddeo
Thank you!
Lol they are already sold out just 1 day after this released.
Dang, that is quick!
Don't worry - they will come back in stock!
Adding weight to get batter handling? Be there Dane that bullshit
Agree. Doesn't make sense to me!
Dont think its so much about outright adding weight but the balance of weight, if my car were to handle better with a 50/50 front to back distribution of weight and i couldnt move the components i already have any further then the option im left with is to add weight into the specific areas. Weight does correlate to grip so correct weight setup for different applications is important
My side our weight distribution are 30 plus front 60 plus rear, we event deleted front pumper and more the body magnet mount to the front shock tower.
Yes! Exactly!
My car is currently running 30% front, 70% rear!
didn’t tell us if you felt any difference
I guess I didn't!!! Doh!
Reducing the weight has made the car faster overall. Pulls harder coming out of the corners, goes through corners faster.
This car is still rather basic, but keeps up with most of the higher $$$ cars in my area.
I know you're an avid drifting man. Therefore I don't listen to the "Rc Karen's"
Ha! Thanks.