what is your case? i have been looking for a case with front panel for hot swap boot/storage drives, but it seemed all new cases are moving to the "sleek" bandwagon.
I fitted a quick release to my motorcycle fuel tank, a very long time ago! Glad it's coming to the new computer cooling solutions, spot on that automotive industry have perfected it....by now! 👍
heatkiller waterblocks , your friend has good taste . I have the all copper TR4 block from them ....... its ..... awesome ! I use them black rubber tube and automotive fittings.... never need to clean the fluid , its as clean now than it was the day i filled it.
Nice touch with the wood.👍 I didn't know EK makes wood covered blocks. Cool! I did something similar to a inwin 301 outsides. I got rid of the front light and I/0 strip so it only has one vandal switch.
A family member just explained the pet vs cattle way of thinking to me this past weekend and it's thrown me for a loop. Seeing it in this video still boggles me. That computer is worth more than my car 2 times over and you still think "it can just be built again if it breaks".
There are a few things that I pondered when my friend showed me his water cooled pc. The first one is. The radiators should have bleed nipples on them, just like car radiators do. This would make getting air out of the system so much easier. The second was what this video has shown. I've worked with cars most my life, and always wondered why the whole water cooled setups were so cheap on the PCs, especially considering they are going in an electrical piece of equipment. Everything from the metals used to the coolant should be basically the same as a cars. Mixing antifreeze to water not only helps protect the metals in the coolant system, it stop all sorts of contaminants like sludge and other deposits from forming. It also raises the boiling point of the water. It most definitely conducts heat much better than these coloured liquids, plus antifreeze comes in some cool colours itself.
its funny you should say that, using PTFE tubes (rated to 240C), pneumatic stainless push in connectors (that are rated for water as well) and G13 HOAT car coolant in my setup here and those high end parts cost less then anything ekwb sells... The g13 gave 3C thermal delta difference over pure water, but pure water will eat everything over time so well worth it.
Just look up "norprene" tubing. It's the same stuff. Super stable. I have used the same norprene tubing for something like 7-8 years with just distilled water and alcohol (for sub-zero purposes, and works well as a biocide too). The fluid has remained clear and clean. Blocks have not had ANY buildup. The only buildup I have had is a small ring inside the cylindrical reservoir from fluid evaporation, which I cleaned off with a toothbrush and barkeeper's friend. A quick filter of the fluid through some filter papers and back into the system it went.
Love that wood look! Reminds me of LGR's Woodgrain 486 he built a few years ago, though he used shelfing paper. I wish I could build something like yours but I don't have the skill for it.
When I started noticing liquid cooling rolling out and the subsequent troubles, I was like yeah none of the materials are speced for it. Then I looked into their fittings and I realized these guys are re-inventing the wheel. They are incurring and solving problems that have already been solved many decades ago. They could toss maybe 10k at a retired engineer for some contract work and save a boat load of R&D through trial and error and the additional warranty claims. I still view water cooling products being engineered by a bunch of armatures (the manufactures not the end users). So here is an idea for a proper rubber line with some bling. A person could mix their preferred plasti-dip color. Add in a fluorescent pigment. Spray the lines, then add some UV LED's.
You can also mold your silicone lines given the right tools. Car industry has some good silicone tubing rated for high psi and temperatures. Food industry has already had this exact tech for years now. Seen a few of these behind the scenes. Only main difference is the look of real industry products since they arent meant to be displayed in the first place. But I agree too many people dont realize really what your paying for is the luxury look and maybe ease of use compared to an actual tried and true standard.
Totally agree! There are so many really weird material choices and focus on stuff that does not actually matter in water cooling. I could buy some Festo nylon tube and stainless pneumatic fittings and have this done faster, more reliable and costing significantly less. One of the things that always surprise me is the fact they seem to use like 10-14mm id tube, but the flows are always going to be under 5 litres a minute, and probably more like 1 l/m You could halve the tube diameter and still have very doable pressure drops. I mean everything in my house is connected with 15mm od copper and runs way more water through it...
@@buildthis2324 Push in connectors are used all over the factory floors these days, and are easier and safer then these compression fittings, yet somehow the push in fittings still seem like a no go here
I work in the car industry and fittings same size as here handle 100psi of air for tools or whatever. Rated usually much higher but I have quick connects for 100psi of anything not pure acid and they work just fine. Now however I do like the look of these quick connects for sure! Probably will be picking up the block and sourcing everything else elsewhere.
@@buildthis2324 Festo sells decent distro blocks as well. I don't know what EKWB charges for the quick connects but CPC has some great ones as well if you can get your hand on em. Good luck with the build!
This build is almost exactly what I want to do. Assuming Im following what you have done. Im assuming the distribution block is split into two sections, with each section having several ports. Then you plumb each component to both sections. This results in parallel flow to each component. If that is what you have done, then the only thing I would change is to switch to 1/4” diameter rubber tubing instead of the 1/2” or 5/8” you have. While this would increase the pressure drop in each line - reducing the flow somewhat - it would make a much cleaner layout. And there still will be plenty of flow, as all of the lines are in parallel (whereas most loops with 1/2” tubes are in series). Very interested in how this turned out. On reflection - it looks like the kit uses 6mm id tubing. Excellent!
@@Level1Techs ...I wish I could download into my brain 1% of what you know. I feel like a kindergartener in college. I truly appreciate what you do. I try to keep up, but there are times I am almost clueless. I'm new to computers. This is a new skillset for a welder, fabricator, and mechanic. This video made me wonder if you could somehow use Aeroquip fittings and hoses for a custom loop. Anodized fittings and braided stainless rubber hoses. ??? I have the desire to learn more about what you do...but there is so much and I have just begun. 1st build. I chose the Ryzen 3960x. It has been challenging for me at 48 years old. Thank you again for your hard work.
Having used all kinds of hydraulic hoses in the industrial world, I can say the fittings and hoses exist that will last many years. Can’t see through them, but they’re very durable.
Wendell just went beast mode!!! And then he pulled off a Level 1 Techs.....This old house edition, right at the end there, hell yeah wendell, this is why we watch you guys man, this PC is sick! Now to find someone to sell a kidney too,so i can have one as well!
Might take that idea for my next home lab deep learning build… But maybe in a rack mount chassis with external rads (kind of like some HPC systems); Love that black rubber tubing to be honest.
Been using that black ZMT tubing from EK for a couple of years now and it is still holding up great. I just use watercooling on my threadripper system cause it is more practical in a way, while it takes more time to build and needs maintenance from time to time, it is silent and never bothers me and it never overheats, even when it is 40 Centigrade here. Also, it doesn't need special fittings, it just needs fittings that fit the inner/outer diameter. I use some bitspower fittings and they work great. That distribution block looks really nice though, but I'm not sure I can convince myself to spend the money on it because I won't really use it and they're charging quite the premium for it atm. Nice video though, thanks for the content! Edit: Spreading out the paste across the gpu die is a thing, this is not an IHS, as such every square mm of it needs to be covered or your gpu could overheat and die under load if the patch that has no/not enough thermal paste on it has no thermal sensor in it. Spreading it out manually removes the chance of this happening, Buildzoid does so with his LN2 pots too and made a video about why you spread it out manually. Personally I don't feel comfortable with guessing that it will be all right and that I put the block on level enough for the paste to spread everywhere.
It expands with heat, like every material does and having "loose" water tubes in my system wouldn't let me sleep at night. Hanging tubes, gravity force, heat extension, water pressure (ok, I know it's not 20bar inside, but still weight)... Even just imagining those coming off during an important render session (or whatever you do with those extreme GPU's) while all your systems are running with max load, gives me the creeps - and it's not even my system. lol
Tygon Norprene medical tubing seems to be a good alternative for the ek zmt if that one's too thick. I haven't had any issues with it so far in over a year of running my loop.
really like the "wooden PC" concept, I think it would look even better if you managed to create an illusion of there being a wood panel in the front, adding some illusory thickness to it somehow
Are you tracking my Google searches? Literally, I was looking into EK water-cooling inside of a Define 7 XL with a 3970X the other night, and the only question I had was could I do the whole EK kit in the 7 XL storage configuration. It's going to be an Unraid machine with spinning rust AND PCI passthrough.
I have a similar use case for my existing Threadripper system (1950X), except I plan to use Proxmox instead of Unraid, same outcome in the end though :)
@@longnamedude3947 I want this to be my piece de resistance in my office. The EK block is so beautiful, and I plan on doing some pretty sick stuff. Wendall, can I buy my parts and come on and do some really nerdy stuff? How to really leverage Threadripper for regular people? (Not that you're not regular people.. shoot!)
@@hotstovejer Sounds like you need a case like the "ThermalTake Level 10 Titanium Limited Edition", but with a Glass side panel and some minor I/O upgrades..... You can't really buy them anymore and they were rare and very expensive when originally released. (About £1000, Limited to 1000 Units too I think.)
@@hotstovejer I have myself an R6 in White with the TG Side Panel, I put some faux wood effect vinyl sticker on the front and it looks quite nice, it isn't perfect though, I could do a much better job of it if I had a second go at it. I prefer the R6 with USB Type-C over the R7 mainly due to how you can screw the side panels in place, so they won't pop out.
This may be a dumb question but... what about using medical-grade silicon tubing for a water-cooling loop ? It's very flexible and as far as I know it's very chemically stable.
Do the sub-loops off the distribution block run in parallel? If so, how are the flow rates equalised given the different impedance of each loop, and the varying number of loops when you use the disconnects?
Why are those pipes and fittings so gigantic? The flows required are really low, like 6mm id would already be low pressure drop based off some off the napkin math...
Made me think of the cooling used on the Comino Grando RM, that full coverage cpu block, and separated radiator and fans. Any chance we could get a review from you on how it performs not only for its specialized purpose but also as a general use system. It's only a few thousand more than I spent on my threadripper system.
Hopefully we're not far off from being able to jam a mishimoto oil cooler into a PC cooling loop. They even come in anodized red, think of all the extra horsepower!
Not all are made equal. It's not to say that you can't find some equally good (or even better quality) fittings out there, but EK should have tested and validated their product - I'd trust their validation to count for something over a random product with an arbitrary 5 star rating.
@@Smithdude_ also you can only do it in really moderate climate... I thought about this a bit when building my Mo-Ra external loop, but in winter it's freezing outside so I would possibly have subzero coolant with the need for antifreeze and in summer it can easily reach 35°C, so I would have really warm coolant... Also would require a complicated fan setup if you don't want to run power for the radiator fans through your whole place. Better to just put the rad in a room you don't really care about but can keep reasonably cool.
Would it be possible to combine 2x Little Devil PC-V10 PC cases to cool the 32 core Threadripper with both cooling probes mounted into a copper block which mounts on top of the Threadripper.
Excellent video as usual. But to this day i cant trust liquid cooling no matter what advances they bring to the loop. If i need a loop, i need an A/C pure and simple.
Question: how do you cool your SSD? I have P4500 and it gets pretty toasty under load - i mean high 60C and sometimes it starts throttling. I had to put it into the bracket with cooling fan blowing right on the SSD radiator. Is there a fan under the PSU shroud that blows onto SSD? How do you keep it under control?
This is what makes me not want to go custom loop. Then again I wonder what the inside of my AIO. I think the next system I’m actually going to revert to air....
yeah i'm not really jumping on the watercooling bandwagon, aircooling is not much worse cooling wise, granted you get the right cooler, but that's the same with the watercoolers right now, id say aircoolers still have some critical points better, like reliability (much lower risk) and resiliency(no growth, no change it out every 1-5 years) and ease (fan dies change fan, not the whole system, no flushing), you can use an air cooler for decades if the parts hold without taking off anything and if the cpu sizes hold carry the cooler on to the newer systems. yeah too many points against watercooling imo
12:50 Didn't you mention there was a possibility of bio buildup in your previous kit? Why risk introducing that crap into a clean system. You are cleaning an old cut, but covering it back up with that dirty bandage... I remember you patent-pending cooler design for the Tesla made from the mirror of a model S. Okay it's not, but sure appeared so. One last thing: wouldn't you consider a mod this extreme what possible performance increases you might attain, as an unnecessary risk? They are still very expensive cards to replace... Loved the video regardless, and looking forward to the rest of this build. -Smalls
@@MACDRU421 I had a CPU AI1 awhile back that performed really well. But I currently have the oversized Noctua dual fan heasink. The type that enjoys obstructing RAM slots... It's difficult to remember all the details. What I do remember is that I'm from the age of Sandy Bridge while being armed with a Maxwell Titan X... I honestly thought though in the last few seconds Wendel left the office to take a tour of Nick Offerman's Wood Shop.
Wendell, for the love of god, if your using just a barb and not a compression fitting, put a clamp on each barb! You are dealing with rubber tubing, over time, with higher temperature and pressure on the inside... it will leak! I know you are new to this, but you didn't even mention CPC disconnects EK they have sold for years, and still do, which are medical grade. And I been running a 3990x with dual 2080ti with 1 D5 pump, its fine. Also you said you shouldn't let the water return to the res from the top? No, that's fine, and by doing so you don't need a flow meter to see you have good circulation, no air bubble problems... Kind of confused about the distribution block; Is this to avoid putting the loop in series pump->gpu->gpu->cpu->rad->res->pump? because it doesn't really make a difference because of the reduced flow. What would make actually make a difference is a second rad dedicated to cpu, but not necessary. To know for sure, calculate how much heat is generate versus the amount of heat the rad can handle. As long as that number is higher your fine, but if you want a a lower average temp, add more rad. One more thing, one of best advantages of the quick disconnects is that you and remove individual components, and can drain and fill the loop while not in the computer! No drain valves needed. Safer for you equipment.
HOLY CRAP THAT WOOD GRAIN AT THE END or something :D
It looks amazing I love the wood effect 10/10.
what is your case? i have been looking for a case with front panel for hot swap boot/storage drives, but it seemed all new cases are moving to the "sleek" bandwagon.
@@noname-vl6vy ua-cam.com/video/e1z_puftG9k/v-deo.html - It is our Fractal Define 7 XL!
Classy AF
I remember AlphaCool showing some Epyc and Xeon 1U and 2U water cooling blocks and thinga last year at CES
I am sure that LGR will approve of the woodgrain finish!
I fitted a quick release to my motorcycle fuel tank, a very long time ago! Glad it's coming to the new computer cooling solutions, spot on that automotive industry have perfected it....by now! 👍
Woodgrain on a high end PC?
*LGR has joined the chat*
*cries in 1950x*
looks good!
the industrial aesthetic is actually a cool look of its own.
Steam punk🤣🎉 styling. Go search 😅👍😘
I'm so tired of seeing nothing but RGB rainbow vomit in everything these days
You really enjoyed making this video. I loved every second of it.
We're glad!
MadLaB. Madlad.
But practicall. Aspecially on the look back on past projects.
Wendel, I dig the fact you used rubber tubes. That's the way to go. I'll join you soon
Aha, summer project. Or it's maintaince Time
you know its some serious business when the pc still needs a cd rom XD
Threadripper and CD ripper
@@joshuamaserow 😂
@@joshuamaserow I've a blu-ray ripper/writer on my system, It will do a 100 gig disk, but man is it slow.
@@edwardv54 you write to blu rays? Or just rip?
heatkiller waterblocks , your friend has good taste . I have the all copper TR4 block from them ....... its ..... awesome !
I use them black rubber tube and automotive fittings.... never need to clean the fluid , its as clean now than it was the day i filled it.
Hmmmm woodgrain, reminds me of LGR
Love it
LGR :-)
I just love how industrial that build looks.
That distro with the tubes coming from above case is awesome.
Nice touch with the wood.👍 I didn't know EK makes wood covered blocks. Cool!
I did something similar to a inwin 301 outsides. I got rid of the front light and I/0 strip so it only has one vandal switch.
In a world of RGB, the black tubes bring a nice, understated look
A family member just explained the pet vs cattle way of thinking to me this past weekend and it's thrown me for a loop. Seeing it in this video still boggles me. That computer is worth more than my car 2 times over and you still think "it can just be built again if it breaks".
There are a few things that I pondered when my friend showed me his water cooled pc. The first one is. The radiators should have bleed nipples on them, just like car radiators do. This would make getting air out of the system so much easier. The second was what this video has shown. I've worked with cars most my life, and always wondered why the whole water cooled setups were so cheap on the PCs, especially considering they are going in an electrical piece of equipment. Everything from the metals used to the coolant should be basically the same as a cars. Mixing antifreeze to water not only helps protect the metals in the coolant system, it stop all sorts of contaminants like sludge and other deposits from forming. It also raises the boiling point of the water. It most definitely conducts heat much better than these coloured liquids, plus antifreeze comes in some cool colours itself.
its funny you should say that, using PTFE tubes (rated to 240C), pneumatic stainless push in connectors (that are rated for water as well) and G13 HOAT car coolant in my setup here and those high end parts cost less then anything ekwb sells... The g13 gave 3C thermal delta difference over pure water, but pure water will eat everything over time so well worth it.
Congrats on 300k!
The runs to the GPU give off strong alien vibes. Can't wait to see you upgrade it when threadtopper 4000 comes out 😁
That wood veneer looks really nice. You've given me an Idea now to spruce up my Define R5.
Go for it!
Just look up "norprene" tubing. It's the same stuff. Super stable. I have used the same norprene tubing for something like 7-8 years with just distilled water and alcohol (for sub-zero purposes, and works well as a biocide too). The fluid has remained clear and clean. Blocks have not had ANY buildup. The only buildup I have had is a small ring inside the cylindrical reservoir from fluid evaporation, which I cleaned off with a toothbrush and barkeeper's friend. A quick filter of the fluid through some filter papers and back into the system it went.
I'm surprised the alcohol doesn't evaporate out and escape. That's cool to hear though.
You build systems like I do cut out the glitz and glam her and get down to the work and longevity.
Aye... Show me that all black Fractal case and Noctua fans. It is the way!
@@Outland9000 néeds actual proof on dat.
Do posT up a Build pic
@@mohdfaizal6773 sure. Umm... level1 forums? Im shit at photos tho.
I switched to ZMT for the same reason, I think it’s the clear tubing leaking plasticizer.
The block was fine, but the tubes were nasty
I have a 7XL with a 360 up top and 480 in front. 60mm.. love it. got that ek zmt tubing too.
I use the Phoenix AIO with a Vega 64 water block. Those quick connectors are super convenient.
Love that wood look! Reminds me of LGR's Woodgrain 486 he built a few years ago, though he used shelfing paper. I wish I could build something like yours but I don't have the skill for it.
When I started noticing liquid cooling rolling out and the subsequent troubles, I was like yeah none of the materials are speced for it. Then I looked into their fittings and I realized these guys are re-inventing the wheel. They are incurring and solving problems that have already been solved many decades ago. They could toss maybe 10k at a retired engineer for some contract work and save a boat load of R&D through trial and error and the additional warranty claims. I still view water cooling products being engineered by a bunch of armatures (the manufactures not the end users). So here is an idea for a proper rubber line with some bling. A person could mix their preferred plasti-dip color. Add in a fluorescent pigment. Spray the lines, then add some UV LED's.
You can also mold your silicone lines given the right tools. Car industry has some good silicone tubing rated for high psi and temperatures. Food industry has already had this exact tech for years now. Seen a few of these behind the scenes. Only main difference is the look of real industry products since they arent meant to be displayed in the first place. But I agree too many people dont realize really what your paying for is the luxury look and maybe ease of use compared to an actual tried and true standard.
Totally agree! There are so many really weird material choices and focus on stuff that does not actually matter in water cooling. I could buy some Festo nylon tube and stainless pneumatic fittings and have this done faster, more reliable and costing significantly less. One of the things that always surprise me is the fact they seem to use like 10-14mm id tube, but the flows are always going to be under 5 litres a minute, and probably more like 1 l/m You could halve the tube diameter and still have very doable pressure drops. I mean everything in my house is connected with 15mm od copper and runs way more water through it...
@@buildthis2324 Push in connectors are used all over the factory floors these days, and are easier and safer then these compression fittings, yet somehow the push in fittings still seem like a no go here
I work in the car industry and fittings same size as here handle 100psi of air for tools or whatever. Rated usually much higher but I have quick connects for 100psi of anything not pure acid and they work just fine. Now however I do like the look of these quick connects for sure! Probably will be picking up the block and sourcing everything else elsewhere.
@@buildthis2324 Festo sells decent distro blocks as well. I don't know what EKWB charges for the quick connects but CPC has some great ones as well if you can get your hand on em. Good luck with the build!
This build is almost exactly what I want to do. Assuming Im following what you have done. Im assuming the distribution block is split into two sections, with each section having several ports. Then you plumb each component to both sections. This results in parallel flow to each component.
If that is what you have done, then the only thing I would change is to switch to 1/4” diameter rubber tubing instead of the 1/2” or 5/8” you have. While this would increase the pressure drop in each line - reducing the flow somewhat - it would make a much cleaner layout. And there still will be plenty of flow, as all of the lines are in parallel (whereas most loops with 1/2” tubes are in series).
Very interested in how this turned out.
On reflection - it looks like the kit uses 6mm id tubing. Excellent!
15:41 I like the shock in the discovery of real wood.
Beautiful.
Thank you for this!
Glad you like it!
@@Level1Techs ...I wish I could download into my brain 1% of what you know. I feel like a kindergartener in college.
I truly appreciate what you do. I try to keep up, but there are times I am almost clueless. I'm new to computers. This is a new skillset for a welder, fabricator, and mechanic.
This video made me wonder if you could somehow use Aeroquip fittings and hoses for a custom loop. Anodized fittings and braided stainless rubber hoses. ???
I have the desire to learn more about what you do...but there is so much and I have just begun. 1st build. I chose the Ryzen 3960x. It has been challenging for me at 48 years old.
Thank you again for your hard work.
Wood paneling
You butchering away at those tubes with your cuticle scissors is a sight to behold. :)
Having used all kinds of hydraulic hoses in the industrial world, I can say the fittings and hoses exist that will last many years. Can’t see through them, but they’re very durable.
Wendell just went beast mode!!! And then he pulled off a Level 1 Techs.....This old house edition, right at the end there, hell yeah wendell, this is why we watch you guys man, this PC is sick! Now to find someone to sell a kidney too,so i can have one as well!
Might take that idea for my next home lab deep learning build… But maybe in a rack mount chassis with external rads (kind of like some HPC systems); Love that black rubber tubing to be honest.
What a beautiful beast .
The bull is da beast. 💪🤣😂👍
Been using that black ZMT tubing from EK for a couple of years now and it is still holding up great. I just use watercooling on my threadripper system cause it is more practical in a way, while it takes more time to build and needs maintenance from time to time, it is silent and never bothers me and it never overheats, even when it is 40 Centigrade here.
Also, it doesn't need special fittings, it just needs fittings that fit the inner/outer diameter. I use some bitspower fittings and they work great. That distribution block looks really nice though, but I'm not sure I can convince myself to spend the money on it because I won't really use it and they're charging quite the premium for it atm. Nice video though, thanks for the content!
Edit: Spreading out the paste across the gpu die is a thing, this is not an IHS, as such every square mm of it needs to be covered or your gpu could overheat and die under load if the patch that has no/not enough thermal paste on it has no thermal sensor in it. Spreading it out manually removes the chance of this happening, Buildzoid does so with his LN2 pots too and made a video about why you spread it out manually. Personally I don't feel comfortable with guessing that it will be all right and that I put the block on level enough for the paste to spread everywhere.
I did basicly the same thing with my 10980xe system. QD and the black long life plastic tube.
Looks awesome Wendel, but did you seriously fill your loop without any clamps on that ZMT hose? Keep in mind it can expand with use
It's on the Todo list
I got ZMT and even without the locking collars they're hard to get off the fittings so I wouldn't be too worried.
It expands with heat, like every material does and having "loose" water tubes in my system wouldn't let me sleep at night. Hanging tubes, gravity force, heat extension, water pressure (ok, I know it's not 20bar inside, but still weight)... Even just imagining those coming off during an important render session (or whatever you do with those extreme GPU's) while all your systems are running with max load, gives me the creeps - and it's not even my system. lol
Tygon Norprene medical tubing seems to be a good alternative for the ek zmt if that one's too thick. I haven't had any issues with it so far in over a year of running my loop.
Wood and metal, that's quite Scandinavian. I'm from there and own a lot of black metal & wood furniture :D Probably should mod my Define 7 to match.
really like the "wooden PC" concept, I think it would look even better if you managed to create an illusion of there being a wood panel in the front, adding some illusory thickness to it somehow
Are you tracking my Google searches? Literally, I was looking into EK water-cooling inside of a Define 7 XL with a 3970X the other night, and the only question I had was could I do the whole EK kit in the 7 XL storage configuration. It's going to be an Unraid machine with spinning rust AND PCI passthrough.
I have a similar use case for my existing Threadripper system (1950X), except I plan to use Proxmox instead of Unraid, same outcome in the end though :)
@@longnamedude3947 I want this to be my piece de resistance in my office. The EK block is so beautiful, and I plan on doing some pretty sick stuff. Wendall, can I buy my parts and come on and do some really nerdy stuff? How to really leverage Threadripper for regular people? (Not that you're not regular people.. shoot!)
@@hotstovejer Sounds like you need a case like the "ThermalTake Level 10 Titanium Limited Edition", but with a Glass side panel and some minor I/O upgrades.....
You can't really buy them anymore and they were rare and very expensive when originally released. (About £1000, Limited to 1000 Units too I think.)
@@longnamedude3947 I've wanted a Define case since the R6, and if I started looking at other cases, it may be another 2 years before I choose lol
@@hotstovejer I have myself an R6 in White with the TG Side Panel, I put some faux wood effect vinyl sticker on the front and it looks quite nice, it isn't perfect though, I could do a much better job of it if I had a second go at it.
I prefer the R6 with USB Type-C over the R7 mainly due to how you can screw the side panels in place, so they won't pop out.
All of those barbs with nary a zip tie or clamp in sight makes me nervous...
This may be a dumb question but... what about using medical-grade silicon tubing for a water-cooling loop ? It's very flexible and as far as I know it's very chemically stable.
I use food grade silicone tube wherever its hidden. Same idea as the black rubber tubing.
Swiss Army knife, as we all know, an essential tool when building a PC build.
17:10 damn, that GPU is packed. Someone had a lot of fun PCB routing..
Why not just use external dvd rom? Even if you use it a lot the externals can be much more space efficient, and stored when not in use.
Looks great 👍, will definitely fit an office build 👌
Damn son, that wood finish will give you 25% increase in performance, no doubt :p
I wonder if hydraulic hoses have the same threads as pc-watercooling parts.
You know, for that heavy industrial look.
Do the sub-loops off the distribution block run in parallel? If so, how are the flow rates equalised given the different impedance of each loop, and the varying number of loops when you use the disconnects?
Wendel, why not model and 3D print custom brackets when stock won't do? You already did it for the feet
Why are those pipes and fittings so gigantic? The flows required are really low, like 6mm id would already be low pressure drop based off some off the napkin math...
When you mention adding biocide to your distilled water what biocide do you specifically use?
Made me think of the cooling used on the Comino Grando RM, that full coverage cpu block, and separated radiator and fans. Any chance we could get a review from you on how it performs not only for its specialized purpose but also as a general use system.
It's only a few thousand more than I spent on my threadripper system.
It's a beauty!
They are called AN fittings which means Army Navy it is their standard.
Also the 30g tub of KPx is way better value. I have gone through half of it already and I don't have a ton a hardware.
Hopefully we're not far off from being able to jam a mishimoto oil cooler into a PC cooling loop. They even come in anodized red, think of all the extra horsepower!
Serious question - why wouldn't you just buy quick release fittings, tubing etc at a local hardware store?
Not all are made equal. It's not to say that you can't find some equally good (or even better quality) fittings out there, but EK should have tested and validated their product - I'd trust their validation to count for something over a random product with an arbitrary 5 star rating.
That Zmt tube is the thickest one? You should use the 12/16mm instead. That's too large :(
This is so impressive sir!!
Okay hear me out here. Quick release to a radiator outside your building. Save some AC costs haha.
Linus tried it. It required too much maintenance for the performance.
That’s how you get condensation inside your computer: and disaster
@@Smithdude_ also you can only do it in really moderate climate... I thought about this a bit when building my Mo-Ra external loop, but in winter it's freezing outside so I would possibly have subzero coolant with the need for antifreeze and in summer it can easily reach 35°C, so I would have really warm coolant... Also would require a complicated fan setup if you don't want to run power for the radiator fans through your whole place.
Better to just put the rad in a room you don't really care about but can keep reasonably cool.
Haha!
@@Daepilin Could always switch to an inside rad in the winter. As a bonus it'd help with heating costs :)
I would like to see MO-RA3 radiator with your system sir.
11:38
LOL... those scissors...
We all need to take care of our Cattles. Wonder how many Level1 has in their kraal server ranch
Go buy a tubing cutter. There $10. What's with the first aid kit scissors?
LMAO. Wendell comparing his rig to a roided out super cow! 😆
Dats a real super bull. Anyone has a pic of its crap?
4:20
I'm trying to eat here.
I wonder how bad my loop looks on my old haven't used in a while AMD FX build.
Face-palm on dat, Grime. 😅😅🎉
Would it be possible to combine 2x Little Devil PC-V10 PC cases to cool the 32 core Threadripper with both cooling probes mounted into a copper block which mounts on top of the Threadripper.
Excellent video as usual. But to this day i cant trust liquid cooling no matter what advances they bring to the loop. If i need a loop, i need an A/C pure and simple.
Are you not using clamps on those tubes.??
Question: how do you cool your SSD? I have P4500 and it gets pretty toasty under load - i mean high 60C and sometimes it starts throttling. I had to put it into the bracket with cooling fan blowing right on the SSD radiator. Is there a fan under the PSU shroud that blows onto SSD? How do you keep it under control?
I can hear @GamersNexus already "WHERE IS THE AIR COMING FROM!?!?"
This is what makes me not want to go custom loop. Then again I wonder what the inside of my AIO. I think the next system I’m actually going to revert to air....
Which fill port are you using? I bought the EK one but the ring is to wide for me to clamp it on the top plate.
Where did you get those wheels from? Edit: nvm I found the UA-cam video
Where did you find the video?
I am also looking at installing caster wheels to the case!
Update: I ended up finding the video as well!
yeah i'm not really jumping on the watercooling bandwagon, aircooling is not much worse cooling wise, granted you get the right cooler, but that's the same with the watercoolers right now, id say aircoolers still have some critical points better, like reliability (much lower risk) and resiliency(no growth, no change it out every 1-5 years) and ease (fan dies change fan, not the whole system, no flushing), you can use an air cooler for decades if the parts hold without taking off anything and if the cpu sizes hold carry the cooler on to the newer systems.
yeah too many points against watercooling imo
Y do u need a CDROM in 2020?
I like the idea of using rubber hoses, but I'd still want clamps of some kind.
Can you get the RGB on the RAM to act as audio level meters?
Slap up a smaller lcd for that.
All that and not Epyc?
that wood stain though
What rolling base/ castors are you using? I'm looking for something minimalistic like that.
m.ua-cam.com/video/9OZ9avQXl7o/v-deo.html
Nice!!!
Are those castors for the case custom?
Yesh, n custom mounted.
Go look at past videos posts
wood is an acquired taste that only you can pull it off :) well, i only use automotive tubing because i couldn't afford computer parts ...
Air pump test rig before adding water to loop(fyi)
It still can't hold 60fps in Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020.
Well, bsod or just Crashed then.
7:42 what block is that? thanks
Air FTW 😉
Those automotive fittings are called AN fittings. You should have gone with some braided stainless hose!
And a custom mezzotech bolted radiator?
12:50 Didn't you mention there was a possibility of bio buildup in your previous kit? Why risk introducing that crap into a clean system. You are cleaning an old cut, but covering it back up with that dirty bandage...
I remember you patent-pending cooler design for the Tesla made from the mirror of a model S. Okay it's not, but sure appeared so.
One last thing: wouldn't you consider a mod this extreme what possible performance increases you might attain, as an unnecessary risk? They are still very expensive cards to replace...
Loved the video regardless, and looking forward to the rest of this build.
-Smalls
@@MACDRU421 I had a CPU AI1 awhile back that performed really well. But I currently have the oversized Noctua dual fan heasink. The type that enjoys obstructing RAM slots... It's difficult to remember all the details.
What I do remember is that I'm from the age of Sandy Bridge while being armed with a Maxwell Titan X...
I honestly thought though in the last few seconds Wendel left the office to take a tour of Nick Offerman's Wood Shop.
Serious question: do you guys wipe before or after you have a poo?
After.
Use bidet.
Mini itx and I so have 64gb 3600mhz
holy. schnikes.
Wendell, for the love of god, if your using just a barb and not a compression fitting, put a clamp on each barb! You are dealing with rubber tubing, over time, with higher temperature and pressure on the inside... it will leak! I know you are new to this, but you didn't even mention CPC disconnects EK they have sold for years, and still do, which are medical grade. And I been running a 3990x with dual 2080ti with 1 D5 pump, its fine. Also you said you shouldn't let the water return to the res from the top? No, that's fine, and by doing so you don't need a flow meter to see you have good circulation, no air bubble problems... Kind of confused about the distribution block; Is this to avoid putting the loop in series pump->gpu->gpu->cpu->rad->res->pump? because it doesn't really make a difference because of the reduced flow. What would make actually make a difference is a second rad dedicated to cpu, but not necessary. To know for sure, calculate how much heat is generate versus the amount of heat the rad can handle. As long as that number is higher your fine, but if you want a a lower average temp, add more rad. One more thing, one of best advantages of the quick disconnects is that you and remove individual components, and can drain and fill the loop while not in the computer! No drain valves needed. Safer for you equipment.
Z i p t i e s
Oetiker clamps would be super overkill here but they would look really slick.
That camera shake at the end of the reveal, oof.
Lol on the unveiled 17:55
Not a theo though. 18:00