Making buildings from card - how to get clean and accurate cuts
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- I am making a scratch-built Victorian court building from card for the back of my N Gauge commercial street.
In this video I demonstrate how I use a simple scalpel and ruler to get the best quality cuts for the many different types of window in the model.
I show how I cut simple rectangular openings for the windows.
I talk about how best to use the scalpel to get accurate, clean, and consistent cuts when cutting a large arched window opening.
I show how I use a similar cutting technique with the scalpel for when UI need to cut smaller arched window openings.
And I show how I put this all together into a convincing building façade made from three layers of card.
I hope that this video shows that you don't need a cutting machine to get accurate cuts in card - you only need a scalpel and a ruler.
N GAUGE SCRATCH BUILT MODEL
N GAUGE UK MODEL RAILWAY LAYOUT
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00:00 Introduction
00:31 Using layers of card to add depth
01:45 Cleanly cutting window apertures
03:02 Cleanly cutting large arched windows
03:52 Cleanly cutting small arched windows
04:36 Cleanly cutting tiny architectural detail
04:57 Arranging a layered building for depth
05:42 Adding finishing touches
06:18 Class 150/1 leaves Chandwell for Ilkley - Розваги
This is the best tutorial on working with cardstock I have seen. Thank you.
Thank you!
There's a machine that will aid in cutting out card called the Silhouette, and I think they are up to version 4, but you can get a Silhouette 1 for around $50.00 from fleaBay. I know of 1 card stock modeler who uses the machine for perfect cutouts. I would get one if I thought I'd make quite a few models in HO and O scale. I like your methods for adding relief and really love the stained glass windows. Cheers from eastern TN
Thank you! Have fun!
As always, BRILLIANT! The fact that this is all made from card / paper is phenomenal considering the results. Of course there a various kits, but card ones don't have that realistic look that your work exudes. You've done all the hardest labor in determining best methods, and then sharing these procedures here. Thank you, Michael!!!
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying!
Interestingly, I build in an overcut on the templates I feed to my Cameo and also go for lighter pressure, multiple strokes as my settings. I admire the patience in cutting all the windows out by hand.
That's interesting - is that to give a cleaner cut?
@@Chandwell absolutely, the Cameo and the Cricut were more of a learning curve than expected. Slowing it all down was a gamechanger.
Someone probably already suggested this but I use a square hollow punch set to create my windows, they have other shapes as well. But I love the cut they make in cardboard at the corners of windows doors etc. Another tip is impregnate your cardboard with cheap superglue and the board will be like plastic, especially handy at sharp corners.
I use some of your tips i.e. I didn't know about full size sticky labels and now use them on my 1/43 houses. So keep it up !
That's a great idea! Thank you for these suggestions. I will give the superglue one a try, for sure!
Very patient as usual, particularly the finer arched windows inside the bigger arch.
Thank you Davie!
Another masterpiece developing nicely. What patience you have. Thanks for sharing. Roy.
Thanks Roy
Brilliant tutorial
Thank you!
What a level of detail. Very good looking product. And it’s paper.
Thanks Ken
Great cutting technique Michael, many thanks for sharing this. Looking forward to stain glass video..
Thank you Barry
I use a bathroom disability aid/ suction cup handle to attach to a cutting board for cutting large areas. I find helps immensely as I’ve slipped in the past cutting fabric with a rotary blade! I just grabbed one from the local dollar shop which works a treat!
That's a great idea that I've not heard before - thank you.
I don't know if this is in response to this video or the "Patreon preview", but ... I don't mind you "just" making buildings. And some urban landscaping. And whatever else happens to happen. I highly enjoy it! Don't get stuck and don't get side-tracked, just keep doing your thing!
Thank you!
As always a very entertaining and educational video and it was very illuminating to see how you use a scalpel to do your cuts on easier sections as well as those little fiddly bits!
Thank you Dave! Thanks for watching as ever - great to have you along. I’ve just started making the next video about stained glass. I think you’ll like this one!
Looking great! Glad that fluid nightclub didn't noticeably warp your soul. This building will look great down by the river!
Hahah! I live to fight another day!
What a true dedication you have! I am, as ever, intrigued, impressed and inspired.
Still struggling with Inkscape but this is a personal failing. Good news is that I AM making progress.
Thankyou for you wonderful models, instruction, entertainments (guided tour was perfect) and videos.
I am always overjoyed to see another video show up on my feed.
Thank you Nicolai!
Very helpful technique, Michael! Always great to learn from your expertise!
All the best
Vaentin
Thank you! Cheers!
good vid on you channel thanks lee
Glad you enjoyed it
Your technique and skills are amazing! And your blades are sharp!😁😁😁
Great video!😉👍
Thank you!
Great update as usual Michael.👍
Andrew🙂
Thanks Andrew 👍
liking so far really good I think your building choice is just right and will fit in well perfectly
Going to enjoy this one
I always enjoy watching how you go about creating your buildings, even if I model in 00. Keep up the great content.
Thanks, will do!
Well this was extremely interesting, and incredibly informative! Thank you for sharing! All the best, Ian.
Glad it was helpful!
What a great skill you have, you make it look so easy
Thank you! Cheers!
True dedication! Have you ever considered getting a Cricut machine or do you prefer doing everything yourself ?
I do consider it sometimes, but so far, whilst I have good eyesight and a steady hand... I find the cutting the most enjoyable part of every build. It's the bit I look back on and think... "I did that"! This may change in future, obviously.
Looking fabulous as always. Say Michael, the Health and Safety exec are prowling around. Someone has complained that you don’t have platform lighting? 🤫 🤤
But Phil, there are no passengers either! :) I am sure one will come with the other. Although the canopy is lit...
@@Chandwell there are no passengers because it’s a dangerous place in the dark! 😬
Great tutorial again.....try cutting your corners first before the strokes......just firmly press your blade into the card .....fluffy corners gone for good!
I've tried that before Lloyd, along with related suggestions like use a pin or a needle to make a hole at the corners. If I am cutting card with a decorative surface, I will still do that, but for base layers I find it slows me down considerably, so I tend to take the lazy option!
That cutting technique obviously will work with HO gauge . I did get a N gauge train and some track, but it turned out to be far too small for my fat fingers and old eyes. I don't know how you managed to make such an amazing layout with such a tiny scale. Really impressive.
Thanks Andy
Heading out to buy sharp blades.
Good stuff!
Wow. This looks promising. If you have not seen my comment on stain glass, here ismy method : paste an image of real stain glass on the shape of the windows to resize the color art, then print on transparent film for inkjet printer (or on a colour printer-copy machine - Canon ones are best - Had one at work and used it a lot). Once dry, cut the element out then cover the printed side with clear transparency film to create the mass-tainted glass aspect. Use a fine silver or black permanent marker to draw the lead binds then glue in place. Effect guaranteed with interior lighting.
Thanks Eric - just responded to your previous comment.
@@Chandwell answered it too with other alternatives for non back-lit variants.
You can make 10A blades last a bit longer by rubbing the back of the blade near the tip on a diamond sharpening stone. You can snap the tip with pliers too, but be careful.
Great tip - thank you. I did try to sharpen them once, but I am not sure I bought the right kind of sharpening stone... There are literally millions to choose from. Anyway... I got shockingly bad results from it and went back to using them until they hardly cut! If you have an ebay link for one that works... I would be very grateful! :)
@@Chandwell I got the tip from an old graphic designer from the days when you did paste up.
Ever thought about a laser cutter?
Clearly you don't NEED one (as this video demonstrates), but I would be interested in your thoughts/opinions/choices.
Yes and no... For now, it is the cutting that I enjoy the most, and I love the slightly wonky look of hand-cut buildings. I work in IT for 45-50 hours a week and it is the "analogue" pleasure of cutting by hand that really chills me out. Battling with printers is not good for my blood pressure, I don't like spending money, and I don't have any space for one either. So with all that said, it's a no for now. Maybe if my hands start to shake or I get arthritis or something then I will consider one, but for now, I am not interested, despite the amazing things they can do.
@@Chandwell
I know what you mean.
The most "efficient" way to colour in a mindfulness colouring book is for them to sell it ready printed in colour!
Sometimes it's about the process.
@paulwomack5866 exactly this.
Hi Michael, I wish I'd seen this when I first started scratchbuilding - full of great advice. I couldn't get curves right at all, to the extent I spent hours hunting around for a template I could use which matched the radius to be cut (old data CD, coin, can of beans, washer, etc) when all I had to do was to move the card when cutting and not try to force the blade around the curve! I would love to know how you managed to get that decorative stone block effect around those large arches on the texture layer using Inkscape - I've tried everything from "Pattern along Path", "Extrapolate", but just can't do it. Great, informative video and thanks for posting.
Thank you Paul. So the effect around that arch was... A simple rectangle of stone texture. A simple 0.2mm wide vertical line from the CENTRE of the arch to the top. Duplicate it. Click the duplicate twice to get the rotation handles. Drag the centre of rotation to the BOTTOM of the line. Rotate. Repeat. If that doesn't make sense, I can put together a little video if it will help.
Michael, where do you buy your paper/cardstock from? I'm in the US and I can find paper/cardstock by weight, but not by thickness.
Hi David, I buy all my card on ebay. I am not sure if it is just a UK thing, but I buy "Greyboard". The 1mm thick is sometimes called 1000 micron greyboard. the 0.5mm thick is 500 micron greyboard. I buy it in A4 sizes. A4 is similar to the US "Letter" size. I like it as the thickness, whilst not EXACTLY 1mm or 0.5mm, it is at least consistent, and I can design my buildings around this consistency. I have links to everything I use in the description of this video: ua-cam.com/video/-QvdNFST7WU/v-deo.html
I only have a magazine photograph of a building i would like to model in 00 scale. It's a L+Y goods warehouse, 4 storeys high. Just wondering the best way to draw to scale from a photo.
You could take a look at this video for some tips? Counting Stones - attempting to design a scale model without measurements
ua-cam.com/video/XBYcll_R66Q/v-deo.html