STOP IT! If you are building a Land Cruiser and are guilty of any of these faux pas...STOP IT!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Our popular Stop It! segment takes over for a whole episode! Please don't get offended...Just STOP IT!
In this episode, we talk about the dreaded upside down FJ40 bezel, unwanted holes, bad fabrication, unnecessary gauges, and other hackery. Please watch and share!
I love it!
Awesomeness!
I wasn't offended at all. On the contrary, I find these spots very helpful. I'm starting a resto on a 1979 FJ 40, and it's a stop it from one bumper to the other and in all directions. The PO did all sorts of things and then covered everything with a generous coating of DIY bed liner. I got snookered a bit but I plan on making it as good as I can. The body was unbelievably, mostly rusted but I'm going to get it back in shape regardless. I agree on the forums. I'm a noob and it gets super confusing on most forums I read. I truly appreciate Jerimiah and all the Proffitt's for the offer to answer questions, especially considering how busy you folks are.
Bob is the man!!
Great! 30 minutes dedicated to only half the crappy things I've done to my 40. At least I got the bezel right.
ok...i'll just put my Stop It out there so that people can hate on me. Just Stop over restoring FJ40's. They came from the factory with poor body work, they were utility through and through. Now they are being restored with perfect paint and bodies which to me, just betrays the original low key charm of the vehicle. That being said, to each their own, and is really just a matter of taste. I'm just finishing my 2nd restoration with this vane in mind, look forward to the criticisms. Lol.
No hate here. I actually mostly agree with you! But first..the "stop its" I put out there are to keep people from compromising the quality that Toyota set out to achieve in the first place. Toyota never put any product out there with dangerous wheel spacers, random holes, bad metal work, body filler over rust, strange secondary components mounted next to nonfunctional OEM ones, or any of the other "stop its" I talk about. As far as "perfect paint" It's true that the quality and application of the materials we use is intentionally better than what Toyota used, but that's not done to make the vehicles appear better than they did new, it's so that they last longer. We go out of our way to try to stay consistent with Toyota heritage, preserving the spot welds whenever possible, always using single stage paint to be true the OEM look, and to a greater extent, keeping the authentic look of the 40 series in all of our restorations and even the resto mods. (Some other shops get a little carried away here I agree) Lastly, it's important to mention one of the pillars that Toyota is founded on is Kaizen. "Continuous improvement" We also strive for this principle.
Here is where I strongly agree with you. I have seen lots of over done, base coat clear coat, (and sometimes metallic) paint jobs on 40 series Land Cruiser that were very out of place looking. I also don't like when restorers mess with the factory dash board "feel" and layout of the 40 series, installing tons of aftermarket rocker switches, digital key panels, and touch screen displays. Another "stop it" for me would be the strangely styled billet subcomponents that really over-modernize the series.
Bob does a great job!
I would like see the other option for the conversion cross member, other than the propeller style. For the factory 4 speed and case, that is all I have ever seen?
You are right, for the earlier 40 series 4 speeds there isn't another option. 1974-1980 4 spds didn't have provisions for the isolator used on 4 speeds from 81-87. We haven't run into this as a problem though, because all of our engine conversions either use a 5 speed transmission, or an automatic of some kind with an adapter that has provisions for an isolator.
I enjoy all the videos...keep up the good work. I do have to comment on your "stop it" regarding a transfer case cross member. While I appreciate your comments about all the wrong ways of doing things, it's also important to also provide a path to an "acceptable" solution. I looked at your builds (some of the 40s with a diesel conversion) and the Profitt's custom cross member is a 1/2" thick solid bar cross member with 4 bolt mounting plate on each frame rail. The DIY community doesn't have a 100+ ton press brake to bent heavy steel like the your solution. I like your solution....clean and simple. Would Proffit's consider offering a DIY cross-member kit that the purchaser welds together at home?
Thanks Gar Guy. Sorry that I'm late in answering your question. You're right, I should have talked about good techniques to build a better crossmember. They are actually one of the trickiest parts of an engine conversion to make functional and also good looking. Recently, we sent out a couple of crossmember kits using our laser frame plates and a "blank slate" piece of 3X5/8 flat bar. My advice to them was to make a template for the shape of the bar out of thinner material (our guys use tig rod) and then have it bent at a local fab shop. Alternatively, it's not actually that bad to bend it in a vice using an oxygen/acetylene torch. I haven't gotten any feedback yet.
Thanks for the videos. I especially like the ones on the FJ40s and FJ43s. I have a couple of questions for you. The first is, if someone wants to keep their 2F engine during a restoration, do you keep it stock, or is there anything you do to get a little more power like aftermarket headers or a different carburetor? The second question is I've heard that FJ40s were able to be hand cranked to start them in case the battery or starter failed. Was this on all FJ40s with the F and 2F engine or only certain years? Could you also do a video of how to hand crank an FJ40 if you ever get one with that option in your shop? Thank you.
Hi Mike, Sorry, I missed your questions. The first answer is, when we rebuild a 2F, we rebuild them to stock configuration. I've found that overbuilding them only leads to shorter engine life. What we do to get more power out of them is aftermarket fuel injection. It doesn't make a huge difference, but at least it compensates for altitude. That helps a lot. Other than that, gearing can make a big difference in how an FJ40 or FJ60 performs. The answer to your second question is, I'm actually not sure of which engines had the hand crank front engine pulley. It's actually just the nut on the front of the crank shaft that allows that. I've seen them on 1Fs and 2Fs. The crank handles didn't come with most models though. I've seen them in some FJ40s, usually non US versions, and lots of FJ55s. There were provisions for them under the rear seat of the 55 model. As far as the video goes, you have a great idea! We'll do it!
@@procruiser Thanks for getting back to me. I'll be looking forward to the hand cranking video.
I wasn’t offended to much by this episode not even a little.
I totally agree with you on the wheel spacers and like you I am shocked that they are legal. I never thought about some of the reasons that you pointed out but how scary is that? 😬I personally love the look of the stock wheels on my 60 and, guess what,? They fit.
What do you do if your front door triangular windows won't open with the front A frame roll bar? :(
It’s amazing how many different answers you will get to simple questions on the forums. Post a thread on how to change a spark plug and you will get a dozen different ways to do it! 😂 Just find the gurus and go straight to the source!
You are so right. I am always willing to help anyone. If I don't know the answer, chances are one of our guys does, and we are never too busy to help a fellow enthusiast. (although sometimes it does take some time) PLUS, there are plenty of other real experts who are willing to help too!
Foose built a custom 4020 John Deere tractor.