Please pin this comment. @36:00 if you don't use new bolts use permatex high temp thread sealant #59214. In a later video, a small leak is discovered from those 2 bottom bolts. I ended up with the same issue. Old videos can't be updated, but maybe if this comment is pinned to be highly visable, it could save someone a little greif. You are an invaluable asset to the community Jason, thank you very much for taking the time to help us all!
Im convinced 50skid just replaces parts for channel content. No way EVERYTHING is messed up with the car within a 5 year period on an 18 year old car. Look no evidence of a leak when he gets to the seal. I love you 50skid and thank you but just pointing out the obvious.
Thanks for posting this. I'm in the midst of my own rear main seal job, and forgot the order for the flexplate spacer and orientation of the flywheel. I love how this chassis handles, but really makes me appreciate my Toyota for how less complicated it is😂
Awesome as always. You really make these things look do-able at home and inspire confidence in those of us attempting it. My only comment would be to see if harbor freight had a flywheel holding tool. Might make removal and torquing of those bolts a bit easier
I don't usually comment but i gotta give credit where its do. I just finished this exact project on my 325 without the help of any videos. I mean i tried to find a video with the knowledge and quality of yours but to no avail. I just went for it and it was as you've described. GREAT JOB! To those of you watching, you'll have to put your purses down and get dirty. It took me about 3.5 - 4hrs.
Hey I have someone trying to sell me a 325 needs a rear main seal replacement and a key.. is this a expensive job to have done?? Their asking 800 for the car but it doesn't have key either. So I'm looking for someone who could tell me who has the knowledge of these vehicles it's a 2003 325i . Plus it needs a key
Dude.. thanks so much.. Honestly, your channel is a gold mine for me as I work through various small issues on my E46.. Such generosity of knowledge.. Patreon pledge done!!
First of all thank you so much for posting this video. I just finished doing the same thing today after being at it for three days, and I have to say the most difficult part was getting the starter lined up. My next project will be the oil pan gasket...
my boomie just got diagnosed with a "rear main seal" replacement, I don't have a leak, but the car makes a whistling noise when idling, I guess I have a project for myself now.. thanks for the video
Another great video you have brought to us. You are very knowledgeable BMW DIY technician. I am always intrigued by your proficiency in terms of fixing BMW.
Great work and excellent detail. But I am starting to wonder if I will ever get another bmw. All the work you’ve done to your e46, I’ve done to mine. I hope UA-cam is compensating you greatly, cause you put a lot of work and money into this car!!!!
Thanks alot this was very helpful i have changed the seal as well as the oil pan gasket, it was tough but i got it done i wish it took as long as your videos to do the job, it took me 3 days mainly cause of my work environment i didnt have the correct tools. but thanks you are a great instructor
At the flywheel put in one of the transmission screws (one below is the best) and put your crowbar against the starter wheel, we torque those screws down all the time like this without any problems! Some flywheel locking tools work the same way too. Can be done alone but with someone holding the flywheel is more easy! Nice vid by the way! :)
+repcsi Yeah I tried that but down on the ground it was difficult to get a good hold. Must be different one a lift. I found the method in the video to be a bit easier grip-wise.
First of all thanks for that great Video, it saved me a lot of Money :), but i think its not a good idea to rest the engine on the sway bar. u could damage those rubber Mounts, i put a jackstand under the oilpan and supported it from above.Btw the flywheel bolts have to be replace because they have to seal. If u watch through those bolt holes u ll see the main bearing cap of the crank.Thank u and i hope to see more Videos about the e46 :)Greetings from Germany
Great video--You are the number one source. Got to change oil gaskets on my 2006 X3 since the GM transmission will be rebuilt. Something I'm not clear on is in reinstalling the transmission. The Torque Converter----Install the torque converter before you install the transmission to avoid loosing a bolt (size 16MM?) inside --seems and engineering flaw doing it your way??????? Anyway you didn't go over removing the torque converter. I had a pint of atf fluid dripping in my jack. Anyway thanks for your thoughts. Charlie
Is it possible to do this without draining the ATF Fluid? I put liqui moly and its quite expensive here in Aussie, plus that means: getting the filter kit as well. So just wondering
Great video. Very helpful. I am about to do mine but it's an Automatic transmission. Your look like manual transmission. Are they same procedures. I have told an Automatic was a lot harder. Thank you
Fantastic Series and very educational. what is the height required if using jack stands to remove the transmission - I am looking for clearances - floor to the bottom of the car
Hello, I follow you fondly and now I have a big problem, I would appreciate it if you help me. My 2004 model 3.18 automatic geared vehicle is rocking like a horse when it is in the "N" position, as if there is a shake under the seat and the sound of the vehicle does not change at all. The engine chocks have changed. Still, when we lift the same car on the lift and gas "D", there is vibration and hum in the chassis. I don't know if these problems are from the same place, there were many repairers, but they are desperate, the performance of the car is fine and there is no error code.
@50sKid, could you clarify which two bolts you had mixed up when you were showing the bellhousing bolts? Wasn’t sure if you meant the long one and the bottom one, or the bottom and the side. The long one goes on top, correct?
Man at 21:54,,saw that you're turning it in and so want to tell you ,,you're turning the wrong way,,,but you figured it out,,,LOL,,Great video man...Going to do mine tomorrow,,
great video. i donot have much knowledge of cars mechanically. but after watching your videos i think i can do pretty much all the repairs you have done. great step by step detailed description of the whole job. its undoubtedly very helpful. i am sure everyone really appreciates you taking the time to video tape it all. one thing that i really like about your videos is that you record everything while putting the parts back. haven't seen that in many DIY videos. thanks for posting such proper videos. one question, i cannot find the second part to this video. have you even posted it yet?
Love your video's. Look forward to watch em. As another guy said you record almost everything which can be pain in the butt. Just admire your video's. I will be doing the oil pan gasket on my daughter's e46 which an xi. Wonder how different it is compared to the non XI? I recently purchased a Rotary four post lift which should make it easy. Waiting for part 2. Keep up the good work.
+Mitul Patel Lol, that I do. Thanks for watching. With the xi you need to remove the axles, the front differential, and what they call the "pedestal" on the right side. Each one has 4 bolts going into the oil pan. The rest is about the same.
+50sKid Hope to see an xi in your garage with the oil pan and rear main seal repair. I have done the axles. So may be not a big deal. Just more steps than a non xi.
Great vid. Cannot remove the 3 torque convertor bolts once I removed the rubber cover. There are pipes in the way. What length was your socket setup? I notice you also use a deep 17mm socket. thx
Singlehandedly the most intimidating/daunting job on a car right behind replacing the head gasket. I might be wrong, I think this is actually the hardest. By the way 50, how many extension did you use at last and what are their sizes. I have ratchet wrenches and 12v cigarette jack powered wrench. Now, I need to know exactly what to prepare in order to tackle this job.
Jesus Herrera no. The rear main seal won’t be affected by removing the oil pan. Just follow 50sKid’s video on this. There is a bit of a difference in the frames for the 5 & 3 series depending on which you have also a real PITA if you don’t have help installing the pan and reinstalling the subframe. I would recommend having a speed driver so your rtv doesn’t sit too long
Good videos. e36 leaking between motor and bell housing. i changed oil filter gasket, valve cover gasket, then changed my oil pan gasket. still leaking from the same place. do you think it's my rear main seal? only leaking when the engine is running. looking for your input. thanks
Hats off to you for doing this on the floor, that's a Two post lift and a second pair of hands Job, you must off been nakerd by the time you got that box out?
detailt video great one... i also do a lot of work on my e39...i can learn a lot fron this ..one question should u mark drive shaft with gearbox?cause it somewhat ballanced and that way you can mount it back same position again ...or is this not really nessesary
+50sKid tnks for the quick replay,, so i can just buy a centerdrive shaft put it on and go without worrying about ballancing it...great hope to see more e39 videos from you
+zeeaars i didn't mark my drive shaft when i took it off. Some say it matters but i dont think it does but you can do it if you have something to mark it with... i didn't have anything when i did my clutch i was in a hurry lol
Thats one more great video thank you for sharing. Can you please help me with this ? I have oil burning off under the cabin air filter where the oxygen sensor is. I don't see any driping oil on the ground but it's burning and there's white smoke coming off. I changed the valve cover gasket that doesn't seem to be the problem. Do you think it's the rear main seal? Is that the experience you had too ?
My engine is leaking water at the bell housing I have same car as you and I don’t know where it’s coming from do these engines have water passage plugs at the rear of these engines?
I just had my rear seal replaced last week on my e46. However, there's still some smoke coming from the engine when I stop. I have also replaced all of the coolant hoses, CCV valve, and valve cover gasket. My mechanic said that I will see "some" smoke because oil was everywhere from the leak, even though they cleaned as much oil as the could. However, I'm just a little suspect from the smoke that I still see. Smoke is also coming in through the vents. Any advice? Thanks.
Yeah something is still wrong and it's probably valve cover gasket related. If they used a cheap chinese gasket they will get hard within a month or two and stop sealing properly.
I'm gonna do this soon, how long did it take to do rear main seal? I don't have impact driver, you think it is possible to do without or I better off buy the impact driver first?
+vaah You don't need an impact driver. This took me a week to do but it can be done in two days, realistically. It's a lot to do in one day, especially if it's your first time.
Can you change the oilpan gasket without all the extra steps of lowering the axis if your transmission is removed? It looks like you can unbolt the oil pan and pull it back.
Jason, I'm trying to get my transmission out could you tell me which swivel socket did you purchased, and from where..?this is the last bolt I'm trying to get out. Unable to find the exact swivel socket. Thanks
please I have a transmission leak between the gear and the engine and its slow leak ,Now some say its a seal itself , Now it could be the oil pump is starting slow leak or the seal ? should I change the oil pump or could the oil pump damaged I don't know what to do because i can feel my mechanic is not telling the truth because i did a torque converter fix in his workplace before the leak it was not leaking before what he did is only the torque converter and after that the leak comes so he claims that I should change the oil pump and cost me more money to pay him please any advice ? My car is BMW E39 model 1999 520i which is the 5 series well thanks for all your videos and my best regards to you my friend I am one of your subscribers thanks
Great vid and looking forward to Part 2. Question - why did you not use your HF engine support from above? Not needed or would it actually make it impossible to access bolts and remove the transmission? Thank you
GOOD WORK, GREAT VID. DID YOU EVER FIND OUT WHERE YOUR MAJOR LEAK WAS? MY E46 IS LEAKING A LOT AND BURNING UP ON THE EXHAUST. I NOTICE IT'S LEAKING TO THE PASSENGER SIDE.
Good Job! Definitely not for the the faint of heart. I admire your tenacity to stick to it no matter the obstetrical. The floor jack holding the tranny was very sketchy though. I was watching and thinking.... oh no it is going to fall off!!!. Just curious how far did you lift the car up to clear the tranny?
+Hamid Hariri Haha, and it did. I should have known better. I'm not sure how high up the car is but I have relatively small 2 ton jackstands and they are all the way up. The car was definitely not up high enough, that's for sure. Not much room to work. I should look into bigger jackstands...
was throwing some lean codes and did a smoke test to look for vacuum leaks. while doing the test I noticed the smoke coming from the bottom of the engine. I removed the metal plate near the oil pan and did the test again and noticed the smoke coming from inside the bell housing area where the transmission and oil pan meet. with and oil leak also. my question would all this be related to the rear main seal.
Once I get the transmission off how can I find out where the leak is coming from exactly? Like if it's the torque converter or a seal. Could I bring my Transmission in to a shop to be diagnosed?
When they say Lifetime fluid for the AT, I think they stated that 10 years would equate to the "Lifetime" of the car, which is annoying as they know most of these cars will be around for longer than that. It's just another way to make money off of unsuspecting people if it goes wrong. It'd be interesting to know the mileage of your car and if your transmission starts to slip with the new fluid. My E46 320i M54 Auto has just over 100k miles and I'm planning on replacing a whole bunch of things including a cracked CCV system and I was thinking of changing the ATF but I'm aware that doing that can introduce gear slipping, so undecided on that.
+E-Z I've got 167k miles. Yeah 10 years is way too long, imo. Dunno where you heard about gear slipping. I would replace my fluid and filter if I were you. Clean fluid makes for a happy transmission.
+50sKid I remember watching EricTheCarGuy dismantle an auto box that was slipping in 2nd gear, he tried replacing the ATF and adding Lucas ATF conditioner which failed, he tried to replace the clutch pack which didn't quite work so he ended up with a rebuilt unit. It's not just him, I've read in a few places that replacing ATF on an old transmission could introduce slipping due to the new fluid being clean and thinner than the old fluid, which contained the loose friction material particles from the clutch packs, thus retaining grip when going up the gears. I've been told by a garage that they can tell if the fluid is too far gone by the smell of it, if it is then apparently it's better off to keep the oil fluid. I was quoted by an independant BMW specialist, £332 ($481) to replace the gasket and fluid, bit too pricey for my liking. I don't get any consistent jolts when going up the gears but I can hear it thumping when it's struggling to pick a gear going up a hill. Guess it's something to add to the to do list anyway, better safe than sorry.
+E-Z the reason etcg's repair of his odyssey transmission failed was because he didn't clean out the valve body. it has little filters inside that get clogged with friction material. as far as old oil being better, that's a ridiculous old wive's tale. the fluid doesn't help the clutch packs to grab because of loose particles in it. in fact, old thicker fluid will have problems flowing through the tiny orifices inside the valve body. fresh fluid will be a 100% improvement. why not change it yourself? it's very simple
+50sKid Hmm, I could've sworn there was a lot more info supporting what I thought I knew as fact, but it seems not after some googling last night. This was a few years ago when I had my Kia Mentor that would jolt into 2nd each time so I guess my memory isn't as good as I thought it was ^^. At the moment I have no tools or axle stands, just a cheap rachet and non impact socket set, limited funds and crappy weather means a long wait to try and fix anything.
it's hilarious how I keep getting the we buy any car advertisement because the more I work on this BMW either I'm going to set it on fire and claiming insurance claim or I'm going to sell it to those con artists
Looks like I might have the same problem. I've got an oil leak but I cant find where its coming from, I believe its going to be the sump pan or this seal. Did your car make like a growling noise when you started it up with the leak? because mine dose but after Ive driven 15 meters it goes away. it definitely goes to stall when I slow down and sometimes when idling. any light on this matter would be very much appreciated.
Watch my common repair steps video as well as the fuel trims video. I doubt your rear main seal is actually leaking--for me it was really the transmission that was leaking, however you probably have a leaking oil filter housing gasket and oil pan gasket and valve cover.
50sKid I replaced the rocker cover gasket and it's still the same, after a good engine clean I'm going to take it for a drive and see what I can see, hopefully I can see where it's coming from. and go from there.
Wow can't believe you're doing this all by yourself its definately a two man job. Idk if you finished the install but i had trouble getting the starter line up because of that dowel pin, mine was rusty so it wasn't going in and i couldn't see it from the bottom but your car looks pretty rust free from the bottom so i think you shouldn't have this issue. Do the starter bolts at the end (IMO) and make sure that dowel pin is nice and smooth, maybe sand it a little or it won't line up with the transmission. Good luck im curious how you'll put the transmission back.
+010FSL101 Yeah the starter was a real pain because I had my long sockets still on one of the bolts when I tilted the engine forward and it was pushing the bolt in and causing me to have problems pushing the starter onto the alignment dowel!
my man, gotta say ur videos r really great to follow tryin a transmission removal now and goin step by step one problem i have is i broke 3 of the bolts on the exhaust [ohio] haa, thinkin of the best way to repair that, but hey thats last thing i am goin to do i have the 2001 330 ci no reverse so ur great work and detail is super n helping w this fix also must say ya make it look easy and as we know it isnt, anyhow down to the last 4 [top] bolts then its out, not sure i am gonna tackle that rebuild of the transmission even though ya make that look easy too, anyhow keep it rolling for us who like to do these things w help from people like ya !!!!!!!!!
+john mervine How were the bolts broken? You obviously got it off. Those studs should be replaceable. My memory isn't good enough to picture what they're like, but you might be able to air hammer them backwards out of the holes they're pressed into and put new ones in (the nuts will pull the studs into their holes).
+50sKid, its ohio where i live those bolts were so rusty i was happy i got one off clean they snapped takin the nut off i had wd 40 on it didnt matter rust is a bitch here, didnt look anything like ur bolts, anyway thats a fix at the end of the job, again ur video and great show of patience and detail gave me a chance to try this want to say thank ya sir, givin the transmission job some thought though, haaa !!!!
ok, it seems the top bolt towards the right of the transmission is stripped any ideas on how to go about gettin it out, or am i stuck pullin the motor, and as ya can tell i have been takin my time on it, i have tried a carbon socket, this bolt is a bitch !!
Ouch. I'm not sure what I would do in that situation. If you pull the intake manifold off, you can get easy access to the bolt from above. You'd have to jack the transmission up as far as you can so that the front of the engine leans forward. But then again you said the bolt was stripped... I dunno, maybe you can cut the head off with an angle grinder cut off wheel? Then, after you get the transmission out, you can unscrew the stub of the bolt out with a visegrip.
+Jake Nissley They are Craftsmans and I got them at Sears while they were on sale (around $40). I don't know that I love them because the markings are not precisely aligned, you know? It's always a little confusing to tell if I'm exactly on the reading or 10 lbs off, if you know what I mean.
Oh OK, I understand! Thank you for your reply. I'm looking for a good torque wrench because I am about to replace my oil pan gasket and want to make sure I get the bolts tightened correctly!
Yeah the most important thing is not to over tighten bolts of that size (small). I would trust the one I get from harbor freight, believe it or not. I have one and use it. I've been meaning to do a video on calibrating them...
+Jake Nissley Yeah a lot of people knock harbor freight and to be fair I did see a video on UA-cam where they showed a harbor freight torque wrench to be 10 ft lbs off, so maybe I shouldn't be recommending it come to think about it. But I've never had problems with mine at low torque settings. I really should do that video, if just to calibrate mine... lol
I have a quick question: how much clearance do I need from the ground to be able to remove the transmission? I have an E34 with a ZF18HP5 in it and so far I couldn't find the measurements for it. Thanks!
+Steven B2 This is a good question. So, I've got small (too small really) 2-ton jack stands from AutoZone and I put them up the max 8 notches. That gave me exactly enough room to slide the transmission out AFTER sliding it off the transmission jack and onto cardboard. In other words--too dang low. Wish I had some dimensions for you. One thing you can do is measure half way up the bellhousing from below then double that measurement and that'll tell you how large it is (it's the bellhousing that you need to clear). Then add that to the lowest height of your transmission jack and that's how high you need to be. Perhaps ramps would be good in this situation? Not sure how high they go. They would limit your ability to move beneath the car though. Maybe get some paving stones to raise the jacks up higher?
I appreciate your response. I was just thinking, it looks like the upper part of the front, where it mounts to the engine seems to be higher than double of half. If you know what I mean.
+Steven B2 Yeah I know what you mean. I don't mean measure half of the body of the transmission, I mean measure up the side of where the transmission joins the engine.
One more question. As the engine tilts back, what can I expect? Should I remove the radiator hoses or other things before? I'm trying to minimize last minute surprises. Thanks in advance.
great video 50 thanks for sharing just a question I'm starting to use pressure transducers hooked to a pico scope and inserted into the tailpipe to look for misfires and engine mech condition, WPS500 firstlook sensor. I noticed the bimmer had an inline 6 with dual exhaust I take it cylinders 123 on one pipe cylinders 456 on another pipe can you tell me if the exhaust flows the entire way from engine to tailpipe in it own pipe for cylinders 123 and the other pipe cylinders 456 ? thanks mark
+Mark Ferraro I don't know for sure but I'm thinking probably not. My reasoning is because there is a little flap on one of the outlets at the back of the car that is controlled by a vacuum solenoid and it's used to tune the exhaust note. If the exhausts were independent, it would be blocking off one of them a lot of the time and that would be a serious engineering flaw. I'm sure they are probably combined in the first resonator.
hey 50 the transducer would go into the tailpipe with small hose and hook to one scope channel. another scope channel would hook to cyl# 1 trigger wire at coil from PCM you would look at pressure waveform one one channel looking for an anomaly in waveform the other channel would help you identify it knowing the firing order thanks mark ferraro
I know it's been said already but I couldn't help thinking that another pair of hands would be really helpful. A lift too but not usually in every DIYers garage.
Hi Jason, I hope all is well. I'm on ECS, OEMBimmerParts and GetBMWParts.com, and I cannot find this kit. I know you said you purchased this from BMW but I cannot seem to locate this there either. Do you know of any other retailers that supply this particular kit?
Well if your valve cover is leaking, the oil will drip back and eventually reach the area you are describing. Way more comment for the valve cover gasket to leak than the rear main seal.
I changed my valve cover gasket added rtv. Changed oil housing gasket. Still leaking oil. Not sure where it's leaking but after a short drive its dripping oil under oil pan and bell housing/motor even on bottom of exhaust where it bends to cat.
at 35min u can see the crank that connects to the flywheel. one hole for the flywheel bolts has an extra ring sticking out. when i removed my flywheel it began to pour oil out of that hole. does anyone know why that would happen or what to look up??
Not really. When you remove the transmission mount, you have the jack underneath it and you let it down such that the front of the engine is highest and the tail of the transmission is lowest, and you put pieces of wood under the front of the engine as I showed in the video between the sway bar and the oil pan to prevent the engine from tipping downward after you remove the transmission (because it becomes front-heavy at that point). But it stays in that position until you put the trans back on.
How did you get your torque converter out? I have my transmission pulled and on the bench. I tried to pull as hard as I can it doesn't move but it has a little bit of play room to wiggle around.
I just pulled, dude. Very strange that you can't get it out. I would suggest finding some bolts to put into the 3 holes that you bolt to the flex plate and then bolting on something that will let you get a good grip and pull with. I dunno, maybe some kind of strap material. Then put your legs on the bell housing and pull the sucker with all your might. You'll get it out. Good luck!
50sKid Thanks for the reply! I got it out today by strapping it in the knob with some rope and pulled really hard on it. It was in there pretty tight. Had an idea of strapping it on to a tree and pulling it with a truck but that didn't happen. Haha. Seems like every time I accomplished one thing I hit into another wall. But my transmission been leaking out fluid. It looks like oil but I just changed my oil so it couldn't be that dark. Do u think it's the oil pump inside the transmission? That small metal gasket. Cracked?
Well now that you have it out, you tell me? Did the bearing spin out? You can send me pictures on my Facebook (my email is also on the About page here). Make sure you change that seal in the oil pump.
50sKid I appreciate all your help man. I will send pics of it tomorrow when I take it apart. But before the car broke down. When I was driving it to run errands, I could hear a small kind of like force induction sound. It may have been the bearing spinning out. On the way home at a stop sign, I noticed there was a lot of white smoke coming from the driver side. I panicked and parked the at the garage to inspect, sure was a stream of dark fluid coming from the bell housing. I was thinking it might have been the oil pan gasket. I saw your video fixing your oil pan gasket. Then after seeing your video from that, your leak wasn't stopping. So I clicked the next one which was the rear main seal, and you didn't fix it by doing that. So now I'm very positive that it is that small bearing inside the oil pump. Your videos has always been very detailed. I really enjoy watching them and learning the different things about my car. Thanks for posting man. Helped and saved a lot of $$$.
Old vid but.. 32:42 In places hard to reach like this you want to use best seal you can get. Genuine or closest to genuine quality seal. Go cheap and you will have a leak again after few hundred miles. Good job anyways. I have older BMW, but i also have to replace clutch and other stuff, so i must do basically same work. Got some great ideas. You are lucky to have gearbox with flat bottom, excellent for the jack to support. I have kinda round one, but i will think about it. Weld something to the jack and make it support gearbox correctly
Please pin this comment. @36:00 if you don't use new bolts use permatex high temp thread sealant #59214. In a later video, a small leak is discovered from those 2 bottom bolts. I ended up with the same issue. Old videos can't be updated, but maybe if this comment is pinned to be highly visable, it could save someone a little greif. You are an invaluable asset to the community Jason, thank you very much for taking the time to help us all!
Im convinced 50skid just replaces parts for channel content. No way EVERYTHING is messed up with the car within a 5 year period on an 18 year old car. Look no evidence of a leak when he gets to the seal. I love you 50skid and thank you but just pointing out the obvious.
preventative maintenance?
Thanks for posting this. I'm in the midst of my own rear main seal job, and forgot the order for the flexplate spacer and orientation of the flywheel. I love how this chassis handles, but really makes me appreciate my Toyota for how less complicated it is😂
Awesome as always. You really make these things look do-able at home and inspire confidence in those of us attempting it. My only comment would be to see if harbor freight had a flywheel holding tool. Might make removal and torquing of those bolts a bit easier
thanks so much. there is nothing to lock the flexplate against. on some engines there is something you can wedge against but not this one
I don't usually comment but i gotta give credit where its do. I just finished this exact project on my 325 without the help of any videos. I mean i tried to find a video with the knowledge and quality of yours but to no avail. I just went for it and it was as you've described. GREAT JOB! To those of you watching, you'll have to put your purses down and get dirty. It took me about 3.5 - 4hrs.
+Aaron Ross Nice, thanks
Hey I have someone trying to sell me a 325 needs a rear main seal replacement and a key.. is this a expensive job to have done?? Their asking 800 for the car but it doesn't have key either. So I'm looking for someone who could tell me who has the knowledge of these vehicles it's a 2003 325i . Plus it needs a key
Dude.. thanks so much.. Honestly, your channel is a gold mine for me as I work through various small issues on my E46.. Such generosity of knowledge.. Patreon pledge done!!
thank you man
First of all thank you so much for posting this video. I just finished doing the same thing today after being at it for three days, and I have to say the most difficult part was getting the starter lined up. My next project will be the oil pan gasket...
To BMW, "lifetime" means 100,000 miles
My god that is a lot of work. Great detail as always.
thx
@@50sKid where you been. Can you get us an update on what you been up to?
Your video is very clear and useful. Thank you for sharing with us.
That’s you brother, I’ve fixed tons of issues on my ZHP thanks to you.
50's kidddd!!!!! you're the man!!! fierce determination!!! great work and keep the videos coming brother!!!!
+Ken Thanks so much for watching!
my boomie just got diagnosed with a "rear main seal" replacement, I don't have a leak, but the car makes a whistling noise when idling, I guess I have a project for myself now.. thanks for the video
Another great video you have brought to us. You are very knowledgeable BMW DIY technician. I am always intrigued by your proficiency in terms of fixing BMW.
You think on jacking up the trans when it´s 1 bolt left... lucky man! Great job, i did it and don´t want to repeat it again!
Great work and excellent detail. But I am starting to wonder if I will ever get another bmw. All the work you’ve done to your e46, I’ve done to mine. I hope UA-cam is compensating you greatly, cause you put a lot of work and money into this car!!!!
@33:48 the seal goes on dry!
Most useful part of the whole video!
Excellent video. Thank you. Your misfortune is our fortune to see this stuff. Lets hope your timing chain stretches next. Just kidding!!!
+toyo toe lol
Thanks alot this was very helpful i have changed the seal as well as the oil pan gasket, it was tough but i got it done i wish it took as long as your videos to do the job, it took me 3 days mainly cause of my work environment i didnt have the correct tools. but thanks you are a great instructor
+Chengetai Tawengwa Nicely done
At the flywheel put in one of the transmission screws (one below is the best) and put your crowbar against the starter wheel, we torque those screws down all the time like this without any problems!
Some flywheel locking tools work the same way too. Can be done alone but with someone holding the flywheel is more easy!
Nice vid by the way! :)
+repcsi Yeah I tried that but down on the ground it was difficult to get a good hold. Must be different one a lift. I found the method in the video to be a bit easier grip-wise.
+50sKid Ah yeah, makes sense, I have a pit so there is more room. Must be way harder to do it under the car!
First of all thanks for that great Video, it saved me a lot of Money :), but i think its not a good idea to rest the engine on the sway bar. u could damage those rubber Mounts, i put a jackstand under the oilpan and supported it from above.Btw the flywheel bolts have to be replace because they have to seal. If u watch through those bolt holes u ll see the main bearing cap of the crank.Thank u and i hope to see more Videos about the e46 :)Greetings from Germany
Great video--You are the number one source. Got to change oil gaskets on my 2006 X3 since the GM transmission will be rebuilt. Something I'm not clear on is in reinstalling the transmission. The Torque Converter----Install the torque converter before you install the transmission to avoid loosing a bolt (size 16MM?) inside --seems and engineering flaw doing it your way??????? Anyway you didn't go over removing the torque converter. I had a pint of atf fluid dripping in my jack. Anyway thanks for your thoughts. Charlie
Is it possible to do this without draining the ATF Fluid?
I put liqui moly and its quite expensive here in Aussie, plus that means: getting the filter kit as well. So just wondering
15:16 "She's loose, phrase you never say out loud unless you're working on a car" LOL!😄😄😄
Thx for this. I'm about to undertake this job, and every bit of info helps!
Very good video, everything so well explained! Great job!
Great video. Very helpful. I am about to do mine but it's an Automatic transmission. Your look like manual transmission. Are they same procedures. I have told an Automatic was a lot harder. Thank you
Fantastic Series and very educational.
what is the height required if using jack stands to remove the transmission - I am looking for clearances - floor to the bottom of the car
Hello, I follow you fondly and now I have a big problem, I would appreciate it if you help me. My 2004 model 3.18 automatic geared vehicle is rocking like a horse when it is in the "N" position, as if there is a shake under the seat and the sound of the vehicle does not change at all. The engine chocks have changed. Still, when we lift the same car on the lift and gas "D", there is vibration and hum in the chassis. I don't know if these problems are from the same place, there were many repairers, but they are desperate, the performance of the car is fine and there is no error code.
@50sKid, could you clarify which two bolts you had mixed up when you were showing the bellhousing bolts? Wasn’t sure if you meant the long one and the bottom one, or the bottom and the side. The long one goes on top, correct?
Great video dude!! Watched a few of yours and it's how it's done for the normal at home mechanic :)
None of this special tools and lifts .
+austinpowers2k9 Yep, that's the way I like to do it
Man at 21:54,,saw that you're turning it in and so want to tell you ,,you're turning the wrong way,,,but you figured it out,,,LOL,,Great video man...Going to do mine tomorrow,,
great video. i donot have much knowledge of cars mechanically. but after watching your videos i think i can do pretty much all the repairs you have done. great step by step detailed description of the whole job. its undoubtedly very helpful. i am sure everyone really appreciates you taking the time to video tape it all. one thing that i really like about your videos is that you record everything while putting the parts back. haven't seen that in many DIY videos.
thanks for posting such proper videos.
one question, i cannot find the second part to this video. have you even posted it yet?
thanks very much for watching. yeah I just posted this today. part 2 coming up next week
Love your video's. Look forward to watch em. As another guy said you record almost everything which can be pain in the butt. Just admire your video's. I will be doing the oil pan gasket on my daughter's e46 which an xi. Wonder how different it is compared to the non XI? I recently purchased a Rotary four post lift which should make it easy. Waiting for part 2.
Keep up the good work.
+Mitul Patel Lol, that I do. Thanks for watching. With the xi you need to remove the axles, the front differential, and what they call the "pedestal" on the right side. Each one has 4 bolts going into the oil pan. The rest is about the same.
+50sKid Hope to see an xi in your garage with the oil pan and rear main seal repair. I have done the axles. So may be not a big deal. Just more steps than a non xi.
Great vid man. Looks like a tedious job. Appreciate the time you took to record it for us.
+Nelson Almeida Thank you!
Great vid. Cannot remove the 3 torque convertor bolts once I removed the rubber cover. There are pipes in the way. What length was your socket setup? I notice you also use a deep 17mm socket. thx
Singlehandedly the most intimidating/daunting job on a car right behind replacing the head gasket. I might be wrong, I think this is actually the hardest.
By the way 50, how many extension did you use at last and what are their sizes. I have ratchet wrenches and 12v cigarette jack powered wrench. Now, I need to know exactly what to prepare in order to tackle this job.
Love your videos man good job Planning of changing my oil pan gasket but I'm wondering if I do the job will my rear main seal go bad as well
Jesus Herrera no. The rear main seal won’t be affected by removing the oil pan. Just follow 50sKid’s video on this. There is a bit of a difference in the frames for the 5 & 3 series depending on which you have also a real PITA if you don’t have help installing the pan and reinstalling the subframe. I would recommend having a speed driver so your rtv doesn’t sit too long
quite a tough job. nice work.
How many hours total did you take to do this job? If you had a lift and didn't need to run out, how much faster would you have been able to do it in?
You sir, are a godsend. Thank you.
Good videos. e36 leaking between motor and bell housing. i changed oil filter gasket, valve cover gasket, then changed my oil pan gasket. still leaking from the same place. do you think it's my rear main seal? only leaking when the engine is running. looking for your input. thanks
That is probably the most likely cause.
How do you those transmission bolts back in when they were so hard to take out? Thanks for making this video.
+Dennis Canon Checkout the part 2 ua-cam.com/video/8dotlX6reJE/v-deo.html
Hats off to you for doing this on the floor, that's a Two post lift and a second pair of hands Job, you must off been nakerd by the time you got that box out?
great video..thanks for the video. man o' man filming under a car holding a trans and ....you da man!!!
Lol, yeah how the hell did I do that?
detailt video great one... i also do a lot of work on my e39...i can learn a lot fron this ..one question should u mark drive shaft with gearbox?cause it somewhat ballanced and that way you can mount it back same position again ...or is this not really nessesary
+zeeaars The driveshift is balanced as a standalone unit. Doesn't matter if it's bolted up to the transmission flange different.
+50sKid tnks for the quick replay,, so i can just buy a centerdrive shaft put it on and go without worrying about ballancing it...great hope to see more e39 videos from you
+zeeaars i didn't mark my drive shaft when i took it off. Some say it matters but i dont think it does but you can do it if you have something to mark it with... i didn't have anything when i did my clutch i was in a hurry lol
Yeah doesn't matter
Thats one more great video thank you for sharing. Can you please help me with this ? I have oil burning off under the cabin air filter where the oxygen sensor is. I don't see any driping oil on the ground but it's burning and there's white smoke coming off. I changed the valve cover gasket that doesn't seem to be the problem. Do you think it's the rear main seal? Is that the experience you had too ?
Could be the oil pan gasket.
great videos like always these cars are sure a handfull lol someone get this guy a turbo kit i wana see that next
My engine is leaking water at the bell housing I have same car as you and I don’t know where it’s coming from do these engines have water passage plugs at the rear of these engines?
can this video help me with my 2005 e46 m3? or is my car different?
My rear main seal is leaking, getting about 1 drop on my driveway everyday. Not sure if I would attempt to replace it... Great video tho
Ive never had to drain the trans pan for a rear main seal on other cars. Is there a reason for this on a bmw ?
I just had my rear seal replaced last week on my e46. However, there's still some smoke coming from the engine when I stop. I have also replaced all of the coolant hoses, CCV valve, and valve cover gasket. My mechanic said that I will see "some" smoke because oil was everywhere from the leak, even though they cleaned as much oil as the could. However, I'm just a little suspect from the smoke that I still see. Smoke is also coming in through the vents. Any advice? Thanks.
Yeah something is still wrong and it's probably valve cover gasket related. If they used a cheap chinese gasket they will get hard within a month or two and stop sealing properly.
I'm gonna do this soon, how long did it take to do rear main seal? I don't have impact driver, you think it is possible to do without or I better off buy the impact driver first?
+vaah You don't need an impact driver. This took me a week to do but it can be done in two days, realistically. It's a lot to do in one day, especially if it's your first time.
Can you change the oilpan gasket without all the extra steps of lowering the axis if your transmission is removed? It looks like you can unbolt the oil pan and pull it back.
DmA89 I’ll let you know in about a week. But I don’t think so...
Jason, I'm trying to get my transmission out could you tell me which swivel socket did you purchased, and from where..?this is the last bolt I'm trying to get out. Unable to find the exact swivel socket. Thanks
Hey I know this is an older video but is there anything else you can replace once the transmission has been dropped out?
Did you put them hard blots back that was in the back
please I have a transmission leak between the gear and the engine and its slow leak ,Now some say its a seal itself ,
Now it could be the oil pump is starting slow leak or the seal ?
should I change the oil pump or could the oil pump damaged I don't know what to do because i can feel my mechanic is not telling the truth because i did a torque converter fix in his workplace before the leak it was not leaking before what he did is only the torque converter and after that the leak comes so he claims that I should change the oil pump and cost me more money to pay him please any advice ?
My car is BMW E39 model 1999 520i which is the 5 series
well thanks for all your videos and my best regards to you my friend
I am one of your subscribers thanks
What exactly did he do with this "torque converter fix" job that he did? Because it sounds like he caused the leak with whatever he did.
thanks for your respond ,
what he did to the torque converter is the Turbine
50sKid thanks for your respond ,
what he did to the torque converter is the Turbine
If you went to the BMW dealer, you definitely got overcharged.😂
Great vid and looking forward to Part 2. Question - why did you not use your HF engine support from above? Not needed or would it actually make it impossible to access bolts and remove the transmission? Thank you
+ahokie I did and it's very helpful but I wanted everyone to know that they didn't need one. The wood does the job.
GOOD WORK, GREAT VID. DID YOU EVER FIND OUT WHERE YOUR MAJOR LEAK WAS? MY E46 IS LEAKING A LOT AND BURNING UP ON THE EXHAUST. I NOTICE IT'S LEAKING TO THE PASSENGER SIDE.
+twincinema05 It was my transmission.
Don't keep us in suspense, did this solve your leak problem?
Did it fix the leak problem?
did you check the crank for any seal ridge? I usually put the real main seals in a hair forward or reverse to miss the seal ridge
+Jody Sanders didn't know to check for it!
Good Job! Definitely not for the the faint of heart. I admire your tenacity to stick to it no matter the obstetrical. The floor jack holding the tranny was very sketchy though. I was watching and thinking.... oh no it is going to fall off!!!. Just curious how far did you lift the car up to clear the tranny?
+Hamid Hariri Haha, and it did. I should have known better. I'm not sure how high up the car is but I have relatively small 2 ton jackstands and they are all the way up. The car was definitely not up high enough, that's for sure. Not much room to work. I should look into bigger jackstands...
was throwing some lean codes and did a smoke test to look for vacuum leaks. while doing the test I noticed the smoke coming from the bottom of the engine. I removed the metal plate near the oil pan and did the test again and noticed the smoke coming from inside the bell housing area where the transmission and oil pan meet. with and oil leak also. my question would all this be related to the rear main seal.
Wow, that's pretty unusual. Yes that's the rear main seal.
Once I get the transmission off how can I find out where the leak is coming from exactly? Like if it's the torque converter or a seal. Could I bring my Transmission in to a shop to be diagnosed?
If you have a leak from the front between the engine and the transmission, it's going to be the oil pump seal. like 99.99% of the time.
When they say Lifetime fluid for the AT, I think they stated that 10 years would equate to the "Lifetime" of the car, which is annoying as they know most of these cars will be around for longer than that. It's just another way to make money off of unsuspecting people if it goes wrong.
It'd be interesting to know the mileage of your car and if your transmission starts to slip with the new fluid. My E46 320i M54 Auto has just over 100k miles and I'm planning on replacing a whole bunch of things including a cracked CCV system and I was thinking of changing the ATF but I'm aware that doing that can introduce gear slipping, so undecided on that.
+E-Z I've got 167k miles. Yeah 10 years is way too long, imo. Dunno where you heard about gear slipping. I would replace my fluid and filter if I were you. Clean fluid makes for a happy transmission.
+50sKid I remember watching EricTheCarGuy dismantle an auto box that was slipping in 2nd gear, he tried replacing the ATF and adding Lucas ATF conditioner which failed, he tried to replace the clutch pack which didn't quite work so he ended up with a rebuilt unit.
It's not just him, I've read in a few places that replacing ATF on an old transmission could introduce slipping due to the new fluid being clean and thinner than the old fluid, which contained the loose friction material particles from the clutch packs, thus retaining grip when going up the gears.
I've been told by a garage that they can tell if the fluid is too far gone by the smell of it, if it is then apparently it's better off to keep the oil fluid. I was quoted by an independant BMW specialist, £332 ($481) to replace the gasket and fluid, bit too pricey for my liking.
I don't get any consistent jolts when going up the gears but I can hear it thumping when it's struggling to pick a gear going up a hill. Guess it's something to add to the to do list anyway, better safe than sorry.
+E-Z the reason etcg's repair of his odyssey transmission failed was because he didn't clean out the valve body. it has little filters inside that get clogged with friction material. as far as old oil being better, that's a ridiculous old wive's tale. the fluid doesn't help the clutch packs to grab because of loose particles in it. in fact, old thicker fluid will have problems flowing through the tiny orifices inside the valve body. fresh fluid will be a 100% improvement. why not change it yourself? it's very simple
+50sKid Hmm, I could've sworn there was a lot more info supporting what I thought I knew as fact, but it seems not after some googling last night. This was a few years ago when I had my Kia Mentor that would jolt into 2nd each time so I guess my memory isn't as good as I thought it was ^^.
At the moment I have no tools or axle stands, just a cheap rachet and non impact socket set, limited funds and crappy weather means a long wait to try and fix anything.
it's hilarious how I keep getting the we buy any car advertisement because the more I work on this BMW either I'm going to set it on fire and claiming insurance claim or I'm going to sell it to those con artists
Looks like I might have the same problem. I've got an oil leak but I cant find where its coming from, I believe its going to be the sump pan or this seal. Did your car make like a growling noise when you started it up with the leak? because mine dose but after Ive driven 15 meters it goes away. it definitely goes to stall when I slow down and sometimes when idling. any light on this matter would be very much appreciated.
Watch my common repair steps video as well as the fuel trims video. I doubt your rear main seal is actually leaking--for me it was really the transmission that was leaking, however you probably have a leaking oil filter housing gasket and oil pan gasket and valve cover.
50sKid I replaced the rocker cover gasket and it's still the same, after a good engine clean I'm going to take it for a drive and see what I can see, hopefully I can see where it's coming from. and go from there.
Wow can't believe you're doing this all by yourself its definately a two man job. Idk if you finished the install but i had trouble getting the starter line up because of that dowel pin, mine was rusty so it wasn't going in and i couldn't see it from the bottom but your car looks pretty rust free from the bottom so i think you shouldn't have this issue. Do the starter bolts at the end (IMO) and make sure that dowel pin is nice and smooth, maybe sand it a little or it won't line up with the transmission. Good luck im curious how you'll put the transmission back.
+010FSL101 Yeah the starter was a real pain because I had my long sockets still on one of the bolts when I tilted the engine forward and it was pushing the bolt in and causing me to have problems pushing the starter onto the alignment dowel!
I hope everything worked out for you, It was a big job.
Very nice video - about how many miles were on that rear seal when it started to leak?
3
Hey bro do u think a 323 i transmission will work in a 323ci 2 door
Got my heart racing at that part around 25:00".
+Steven B2 My heart was racing just after that.. when it fell, lol.
my man, gotta say ur videos r really great to follow tryin a transmission removal now and goin step by step one problem i have is i broke 3 of the bolts on the exhaust [ohio] haa, thinkin of the best way to repair that, but hey thats last thing i am goin to do i have the 2001 330 ci no reverse so ur great work and detail is super n helping w this fix also must say ya make it look easy and as we know it isnt, anyhow down to the last 4 [top] bolts then its out, not sure i am gonna tackle that rebuild of the transmission even though ya make that look easy too, anyhow keep it rolling for us who like to do these things w help from people like ya !!!!!!!!!
+john mervine How were the bolts broken? You obviously got it off. Those studs should be replaceable. My memory isn't good enough to picture what they're like, but you might be able to air hammer them backwards out of the holes they're pressed into and put new ones in (the nuts will pull the studs into their holes).
+50sKid, its ohio where i live those bolts were so rusty i was happy i got one off clean they snapped takin the nut off i had wd 40 on it didnt matter rust is a bitch here, didnt look anything like ur bolts, anyway thats a fix at the end of the job, again ur video and great show of patience and detail gave me a chance to try this want to say thank ya sir, givin the transmission job some thought though, haaa !!!!
ok, it seems the top bolt towards the right of the transmission is stripped any ideas on how to go about gettin it out, or am i stuck pullin the motor, and as ya can tell i have been takin my time on it, i have tried a carbon socket, this bolt is a bitch !!
Ouch. I'm not sure what I would do in that situation. If you pull the intake manifold off, you can get easy access to the bolt from above. You'd have to jack the transmission up as far as you can so that the front of the engine leans forward. But then again you said the bolt was stripped... I dunno, maybe you can cut the head off with an angle grinder cut off wheel? Then, after you get the transmission out, you can unscrew the stub of the bolt out with a visegrip.
thanks for ur fast answer gonna go w ur advise on this, cause pulling the motor is a last resort !!
Do you mind sharing where you bought your torque wrenches and what brand they are? Thank you very much for your videos!
+Jake Nissley They are Craftsmans and I got them at Sears while they were on sale (around $40). I don't know that I love them because the markings are not precisely aligned, you know? It's always a little confusing to tell if I'm exactly on the reading or 10 lbs off, if you know what I mean.
Oh OK, I understand! Thank you for your reply. I'm looking for a good torque wrench because I am about to replace my oil pan gasket and want to make sure I get the bolts tightened correctly!
Yeah the most important thing is not to over tighten bolts of that size (small). I would trust the one I get from harbor freight, believe it or not. I have one and use it. I've been meaning to do a video on calibrating them...
Oh wow I didn't expect harbor freight to be good with those! :P I'll have to look into them when I buy the engine support bar.
+Jake Nissley Yeah a lot of people knock harbor freight and to be fair I did see a video on UA-cam where they showed a harbor freight torque wrench to be 10 ft lbs off, so maybe I shouldn't be recommending it come to think about it. But I've never had problems with mine at low torque settings. I really should do that video, if just to calibrate mine... lol
how many hr`s doing this project ??
At least two days. A professional can do it in a day. It's different with a lift.
I have a quick question: how much clearance do I need from the ground to be able to remove the transmission? I have an E34 with a ZF18HP5 in it and so far I couldn't find the measurements for it.
Thanks!
+Steven B2 This is a good question. So, I've got small (too small really) 2-ton jack stands from AutoZone and I put them up the max 8 notches. That gave me exactly enough room to slide the transmission out AFTER sliding it off the transmission jack and onto cardboard. In other words--too dang low. Wish I had some dimensions for you. One thing you can do is measure half way up the bellhousing from below then double that measurement and that'll tell you how large it is (it's the bellhousing that you need to clear). Then add that to the lowest height of your transmission jack and that's how high you need to be. Perhaps ramps would be good in this situation? Not sure how high they go. They would limit your ability to move beneath the car though. Maybe get some paving stones to raise the jacks up higher?
I appreciate your response. I was just thinking, it looks like the upper part of the front, where it mounts to the engine seems to be higher than double of half. If you know what I mean.
+Steven B2 Yeah I know what you mean. I don't mean measure half of the body of the transmission, I mean measure up the side of where the transmission joins the engine.
yeah, thanks!
One more question. As the engine tilts back, what can I expect? Should I remove the radiator hoses or other things before? I'm trying to minimize last minute surprises. Thanks in advance.
You should list gasket part numbers in description 👍
you should look them up 👍🏽
great video 50 thanks for sharing just a question I'm starting to use pressure transducers hooked to a pico scope and inserted into the tailpipe to look for misfires and engine mech condition, WPS500 firstlook sensor. I noticed the bimmer had an inline 6 with dual exhaust I take it cylinders 123 on one pipe cylinders 456 on another pipe can you tell me if the exhaust flows the entire way from engine to tailpipe in it own pipe for cylinders 123 and the other pipe cylinders 456 ? thanks mark
+Mark Ferraro I don't know for sure but I'm thinking probably not. My reasoning is because there is a little flap on one of the outlets at the back of the car that is controlled by a vacuum solenoid and it's used to tune the exhaust note. If the exhausts were independent, it would be blocking off one of them a lot of the time and that would be a serious engineering flaw. I'm sure they are probably combined in the first resonator.
+Mark Ferraro Btw aren't you supposed to hook your transducer to the 12v wire going to the coil?
hey 50 the transducer would go into the tailpipe with small hose and hook to one scope channel. another scope channel would hook to cyl# 1 trigger wire at coil from PCM you would look at pressure waveform one one channel looking for an anomaly in waveform the other channel would help you identify it knowing the firing order thanks mark ferraro
i know this is a old video but
why was there oil there at 28:50
s that the cause of the seal leaking
I take my hat off to you matey!
Great Video ! It's a big help.
I know it's been said already but I couldn't help thinking that another pair of hands would be really helpful. A lift too but not usually in every DIYers garage.
+Robert TR3 Woulda been pretty hard to film that too, but, yes for sure. I dunno, I guess I'm stubborn and want to prove what one person can do.
Hi Jason, I hope all is well. I'm on ECS, OEMBimmerParts and GetBMWParts.com, and I cannot find this kit. I know you said you purchased this from BMW but I cannot seem to locate this there either. Do you know of any other retailers that supply this particular kit?
Oil is leaking between the bell housing and motor. do you think that's the main rear seal leaking?
Well if your valve cover is leaking, the oil will drip back and eventually reach the area you are describing. Way more comment for the valve cover gasket to leak than the rear main seal.
I changed my valve cover gasket added rtv. Changed oil housing gasket. Still leaking oil. Not sure where it's leaking but after a short drive its dripping oil under oil pan and bell housing/motor even on bottom of exhaust where it bends to cat.
It's the oil pan gasket then. That is the 3rd major oil leak.
at 35min u can see the crank that connects to the flywheel. one hole for the flywheel bolts has an extra ring sticking out. when i removed my flywheel it began to pour oil out of that hole. does anyone know why that would happen or what to look up??
Same thing with mine ! Ever found the issue
@@esfelon short answer: its fine🤣
How many watts is your drill???
Did you end up moving the engine up and down throughout the transmission removal?
Awesome video by the way!
Not really. When you remove the transmission mount, you have the jack underneath it and you let it down such that the front of the engine is highest and the tail of the transmission is lowest, and you put pieces of wood under the front of the engine as I showed in the video between the sway bar and the oil pan to prevent the engine from tipping downward after you remove the transmission (because it becomes front-heavy at that point). But it stays in that position until you put the trans back on.
How did you get your torque converter out? I have my transmission pulled and on the bench. I tried to pull as hard as I can it doesn't move but it has a little bit of play room to wiggle around.
I just pulled, dude. Very strange that you can't get it out. I would suggest finding some bolts to put into the 3 holes that you bolt to the flex plate and then bolting on something that will let you get a good grip and pull with. I dunno, maybe some kind of strap material. Then put your legs on the bell housing and pull the sucker with all your might. You'll get it out. Good luck!
50sKid Thanks for the reply! I got it out today by strapping it in the knob with some rope and pulled really hard on it. It was in there pretty tight. Had an idea of strapping it on to a tree and pulling it with a truck but that didn't happen. Haha. Seems like every time I accomplished one thing I hit into another wall. But my transmission been leaking out fluid. It looks like oil but I just changed my oil so it couldn't be that dark. Do u think it's the oil pump inside the transmission? That small metal gasket. Cracked?
Well now that you have it out, you tell me? Did the bearing spin out? You can send me pictures on my Facebook (my email is also on the About page here). Make sure you change that seal in the oil pump.
50sKid I appreciate all your help man. I will send pics of it tomorrow when I take it apart. But before the car broke down. When I was driving it to run errands, I could hear a small kind of like force induction sound. It may have been the bearing spinning out. On the way home at a stop sign, I noticed there was a lot of white smoke coming from the driver side. I panicked and parked the at the garage to inspect, sure was a stream of dark fluid coming from the bell housing. I was thinking it might have been the oil pan gasket. I saw your video fixing your oil pan gasket. Then after seeing your video from that, your leak wasn't stopping. So I clicked the next one which was the rear main seal, and you didn't fix it by doing that. So now I'm very positive that it is that small bearing inside the oil pump. Your videos has always been very detailed. I really enjoy watching them and learning the different things about my car. Thanks for posting man. Helped and saved a lot of $$$.
excellent video
Love the quality of your video. Are you using a hi-def camera? If so what kind?
+Dennis Canon Sony FDR-AX33
genus work and work by your self great
great effort
And if u have a zf transmission can a Gm work
Old vid but..
32:42
In places hard to reach like this you want to use best seal you can get. Genuine or closest to genuine quality seal.
Go cheap and you will have a leak again after few hundred miles.
Good job anyways. I have older BMW, but i also have to replace clutch and other stuff, so i must do basically same work. Got some great ideas.
You are lucky to have gearbox with flat bottom, excellent for the jack to support. I have kinda round one, but i will think about it. Weld something to the jack and make it support gearbox correctly
Do you have to drain the transmission??
Technically no, but just make sure the torque converter doesn't fall out or move. If it does it will leak pretty bad.
Real good video.
Thanks,
Is this same procedures on e39
You r a god haha i have to do the same thing... not excited now lol but its apart of owning a car hahaha thank you for your videos lol