I agree on not using the 0w oils, I followed this step on a brand new car. And heavy oil slugdes starts to come at after 70k kilometers because I live in a hot tropical climate. Higher viscosity is always better here and possibly your place if you're at Texas or Nevada or anywhere else that's hot.
Awesome video, Drew. Quick question: I hear that the EGR valve and oil cooler start to have their seal fail at this mileage too. Have you or do you have plans to service that? I have 2015 Q7 TDI with 89,000 and was wondering about it as well. You know, to do it proactively before it starts leaking coolant.
They will absolutely ALL fail(leak) at a maximum of 200,000km depending on how/where it is used. I would just get all the parts, watch the coolant level more frequently and do it when it starts leaking. It’s a fairly involving process but definitely a DIY if you like wrenching on your cars.
Same process I like to do to a new-to-me vehicle. Great video. If I may pick at your process just a little.... please don't use 0W30.... yes I know that may OE spec, but that thin oil is specified for fuel economy and NO other reason. It does a terrible job of protecting a DPF/EGR equipped diesel, even with very short change intervals. Plus it does not help with timing chain wear issues and leaks. Also, don't get too caught up in the exact VW spec... there is nothing special about that engine or it's aftertreatment system compared to a modern Duramax for example. Personally I would run a 5W40 diesel oil, like Shell Rotella. It will work just fine and that engine will last longer for it. The other critically important maintenance... replace (don't clean) your MAP sensor, and be certain your DPF delta P sensors are reading accurate, if any doubt at all, replace them. Verify all engine sensors are working and accurate, intake air, fuel temp, etc. Without accurate data, the software combustion model in the ECM cannot make efficient combustion and you will be shortening the life of the DPF, dumping excess soot into oil and causing a cascade of problems that get bandaged over and over again at most shops. And keep all glow plugs working - they are part of the DPF regen process and regen will be blocked if your GP are not working. Just my opinions... these engines work great for the first 50k to 100k miles, then as the sensors degrade and get a little soot on them, the cascading nightmare of emissions and engine problems start. Remember, DPFs don't make soot, improperly maintained engines do. And the proper maintenance procedure to keep these things running near forever are not taught in 99% of dealer tech training classes... that wouldn't be good for business, would it now?
Yes this one is leaking a little from there. According to forums it could be the rear main or the upper oil pan. The upper oil pan I guess requires the engine to be remove to properly seal the upper oil pan. I may reseal and replace the timing components this engine this year if it gets worse or if I get the time to do the work.
For the life of who or what? Lol I would replace it every 60-70K kms, regardless because it’s a fairly easy maintenance and that gearbox will last 500,000km or longer with no issues.
I just bought the same one. Thank you for your video. It was very helpful!
Glad to hear it. Thank you
I agree on not using the 0w oils, I followed this step on a brand new car. And heavy oil slugdes starts to come at after 70k kilometers because I live in a hot tropical climate. Higher viscosity is always better here and possibly your place if you're at Texas or Nevada or anywhere else that's hot.
Exactly , Im in a hot climate so it makes sense.
Awesome video, Drew. Quick question: I hear that the EGR valve and oil cooler start to have their seal fail at this mileage too. Have you or do you have plans to service that? I have 2015 Q7 TDI with 89,000 and was wondering about it as well. You know, to do it proactively before it starts leaking coolant.
They will absolutely ALL fail(leak) at a maximum of 200,000km depending on how/where it is used. I would just get all the parts, watch the coolant level more frequently and do it when it starts leaking. It’s a fairly involving process but definitely a DIY if you like wrenching on your cars.
You know about the level check and final refil must be done with temperature about 45 celsius,when oil starts dripping from the level plug you're ok
Same process I like to do to a new-to-me vehicle. Great video. If I may pick at your process just a little.... please don't use 0W30.... yes I know that may OE spec, but that thin oil is specified for fuel economy and NO other reason. It does a terrible job of protecting a DPF/EGR equipped diesel, even with very short change intervals. Plus it does not help with timing chain wear issues and leaks. Also, don't get too caught up in the exact VW spec... there is nothing special about that engine or it's aftertreatment system compared to a modern Duramax for example. Personally I would run a 5W40 diesel oil, like Shell Rotella. It will work just fine and that engine will last longer for it.
The other critically important maintenance... replace (don't clean) your MAP sensor, and be certain your DPF delta P sensors are reading accurate, if any doubt at all, replace them. Verify all engine sensors are working and accurate, intake air, fuel temp, etc. Without accurate data, the software combustion model in the ECM cannot make efficient combustion and you will be shortening the life of the DPF, dumping excess soot into oil and causing a cascade of problems that get bandaged over and over again at most shops. And keep all glow plugs working - they are part of the DPF regen process and regen will be blocked if your GP are not working.
Just my opinions... these engines work great for the first 50k to 100k miles, then as the sensors degrade and get a little soot on them, the cascading nightmare of emissions and engine problems start. Remember, DPFs don't make soot, improperly maintained engines do. And the proper maintenance procedure to keep these things running near forever are not taught in 99% of dealer tech training classes... that wouldn't be good for business, would it now?
How many litters of oil required? Thanks
According to my shop manual a 2014 audi q7 tdi 3.0 takes 7.66 L of oil.
Did you ever notice oil leak in between gearbox and the engine?
Yes this one is leaking a little from there. According to forums it could be the rear main or the upper oil pan. The upper oil pan I guess requires the engine to be remove to properly seal the upper oil pan. I may reseal and replace the timing components this engine this year if it gets worse or if I get the time to do the work.
@@drewsshoplife Same with my Cayenne Diesel. However I don't have a two-post lift :(
That trans is sealed for life from factory,they don't have service scheduled for those trans
lol
there is no such a thing.
the tranny will last without servicing it for a bit over the factory warranty
Audi doesn't have a service interval, but Aisin does. They state between 45-60k miles.
@@threeputtpar6927 what do you mean by "Aisin"?
For the life of who or what? Lol
I would replace it every 60-70K kms, regardless because it’s a fairly easy maintenance and that gearbox will last 500,000km or longer with no issues.