Great video and very informative Thank you for sharing, one thing I'm not getting though is the section where you talk about birds in flight where you have checked your settings from one point to the other, you are saying that if you need to you can change your settings on the fly, so how are you focusing the camera at this time are you focusing on the shutter, as earlier in the video you made a reference to back button focus.
for BIF - I'll pre-focused on each end of my "FLIGHT WINDOW" - I'll set the SS, F-stop and Iso for each location - the only thing I'll change on the fly is the ISO depending on where the bird might be in that window - hope that helps the explanation better - Thanks for watching.
Sounds like you are on a fairly normal growth path. My suggestion is to rephrase your message. I bet when you first started out, you did program mode and auto ISO. Then you might have moved to another mode and eventually ended up with manual plus auto ISO. Now you have graduated to full manual. You have also become more attentive to your results as well as your shooting conditions. You have become more aware of what can go wrong in various situations. You have grown and developed. My interpretation of your video is manual plus auto ISO is a valid stepping point in a photographer's development. In today's world, we also have immediate feedback and in the case of the R5, the image just taken shows up in the view finder. So we can see not only the histogram before we shoot, we can see the image immediately after we shoot giving us the opportunity (often but not always) to adjust something -- ISO or exposure compensation depending upon the mode you are shooting in -- before taking the next shot. And we also have aids like "blinkies" for the over exposed areas. Use them all... One of the things that I wish the R5 had is what the 1D, 1Ds, and 1D X models had which is spot metering where the spot is tied to the focus point. I use to shoot musician's on stage. By placing the focus point where it would produce a good composition and using spot metering at that same point, then I would simply put the focus point on the musician's eye and blast away. The camera would focus and expose for the eye correctly. Add in, perhaps, some exposure compensation and you got final quality images straight out of the camera with 90% efficiency.
Nope I started out with manual + Auto-iso - then to Aperture priority back to man with auto then on to full Manual. I sure hope I've progressed - I wished peddlers of the Manual + Auto-iso would also list the short comings of this shooting mode, they are numerous, especially the exp. comp thing - when this is added in, this shooting mode is not near as fast as they lead us to believe - this would have saved me much time along the way - but experience and learning from failures also teach us much. I so appreciate your input - thanks for watching
Your problem is you are too discerning, lol. I'm happy I'm not the only photographer who realised what you realised, thing is I've been photographing wildlife for over thirty years and I've been aware of the failings of manual with auto iso for a very long time. Trying to explain these issues is very hard to those who don't really understand the fundamentals of photography. I enjoy your films and I'm glad to have found your channel ! All the best from the UK. PS you are obviously enjoying yourself, keep doing what you do and let the others learn the hard way!
@@TheWildlifeGallery388 You´re welcome! You know, in many video tutorials and even in dedicated books, people say that it isn´t possible to use EC with the 90D. Indeeed it is, but first you have to assign the SET button to perform EC: in the custom functions one has to chose C.Fn.III: Operation/Others an then assing the SET button to EC. Same thing, by the way, on the Canon EOS 77D. Hope this info is useful.
With my R6 ii i have to ugold my back button focus and then press the shutter button half way to activate the EC. Its less steps to just adjust my iso for the exposure. And the EC resets the second you take the shot or release the backbutton focus. On my old Canon 90d the probem was to remember toreset the EC. Now auto iso is almost more trouble than its worth.
I really prefer all manual too, it just gives me more of a creative control of what I am trying to do, and makes it faster to take 2 shots for exposure bracketing. I leave ISO to full stops and if I have a black bird and no flash, I take a photo at base ISO and one at high ISO and merge them in Lightroom, if I have flash, full manual is also neccesary because you have to adjust ISO to whatever power your flash loses when it is on high speed sync.
Great video and very informative Thank you for sharing, one thing I'm not getting though is the section where you talk about birds in flight where you have checked your settings from one point to the other, you are saying that if you need to you can change your settings on the fly, so how are you focusing the camera at this time are you focusing on the shutter, as earlier in the video you made a reference to back button focus.
for BIF - I'll pre-focused on each end of my "FLIGHT WINDOW" - I'll set the SS, F-stop and Iso for each location - the only thing I'll change on the fly is the ISO depending on where the bird might be in that window - hope that helps the explanation better - Thanks for watching.
Sounds like you are on a fairly normal growth path. My suggestion is to rephrase your message. I bet when you first started out, you did program mode and auto ISO. Then you might have moved to another mode and eventually ended up with manual plus auto ISO. Now you have graduated to full manual. You have also become more attentive to your results as well as your shooting conditions. You have become more aware of what can go wrong in various situations. You have grown and developed.
My interpretation of your video is manual plus auto ISO is a valid stepping point in a photographer's development.
In today's world, we also have immediate feedback and in the case of the R5, the image just taken shows up in the view finder. So we can see not only the histogram before we shoot, we can see the image immediately after we shoot giving us the opportunity (often but not always) to adjust something -- ISO or exposure compensation depending upon the mode you are shooting in -- before taking the next shot. And we also have aids like "blinkies" for the over exposed areas. Use them all...
One of the things that I wish the R5 had is what the 1D, 1Ds, and 1D X models had which is spot metering where the spot is tied to the focus point. I use to shoot musician's on stage. By placing the focus point where it would produce a good composition and using spot metering at that same point, then I would simply put the focus point on the musician's eye and blast away. The camera would focus and expose for the eye correctly. Add in, perhaps, some exposure compensation and you got final quality images straight out of the camera with 90% efficiency.
Nope I started out with manual + Auto-iso - then to Aperture priority back to man with auto then on to full Manual. I sure hope I've progressed - I wished peddlers of the Manual + Auto-iso would also list the short comings of this shooting mode, they are numerous, especially the exp. comp thing - when this is added in, this shooting mode is not near as fast as they lead us to believe - this would have saved me much time along the way - but experience and learning from failures also teach us much. I so appreciate your input - thanks for watching
Your problem is you are too discerning, lol. I'm happy I'm not the only photographer who realised what you realised, thing is I've been photographing wildlife for over thirty years and I've been aware of the failings of manual with auto iso for a very long time. Trying to explain these issues is very hard to those who don't really understand the fundamentals of photography. I enjoy your films and I'm glad to have found your channel ! All the best from the UK. PS you are obviously enjoying yourself, keep doing what you do and let the others learn the hard way!
Thank you - Thank you !!!!!!!
You can use Manual + Auto ISO with Exposure Compensation (EC) with the Canon 90D.
So you can use the ETTR method: just dial some positive EC...
Thanks for your input
@@TheWildlifeGallery388 You´re welcome!
You know, in many video tutorials and even in dedicated books, people say that it isn´t possible to use EC with the 90D.
Indeeed it is, but first you have to assign the SET button to perform EC: in the custom functions one has to chose C.Fn.III: Operation/Others an then assing the SET button to EC.
Same thing, by the way, on the Canon EOS 77D.
Hope this info is useful.
With my R6 ii i have to ugold my back button focus and then press the shutter button half way to activate the EC. Its less steps to just adjust my iso for the exposure. And the EC resets the second you take the shot or release the backbutton focus. On my old Canon 90d the probem was to remember toreset the EC. Now auto iso is almost more trouble than its worth.
Thanks for your input and especially watching - much appreciated!
I really prefer all manual too, it just gives me more of a creative control of what I am trying to do, and makes it faster to take 2 shots for exposure bracketing. I leave ISO to full stops and if I have a black bird and no flash, I take a photo at base ISO and one at high ISO and merge them in Lightroom, if I have flash, full manual is also neccesary because you have to adjust ISO to whatever power your flash loses when it is on high speed sync.
Thanks for your input and especially watching.
Ive been on he same journey 😀
Thanks for watching