I’ve ran the stainless steal Sparrow core and half tubes in a Frankford armory rotary tumbler with 3 changes of Hot water and Dawn for 6 total hours and it was perfectly clean. I did remove the O-rings from the mono core.
I work in the chemistry field, I cannot stress this enough. DO NOT USE THE DIP! Lead acetate is extremely dangerous and is extremely hard to properly dispose of. Lead is typically introduced through ingestion/inhalation, the exception is lead acetate which will go straight into your bloodstream from skin contact. It's a horrible idea, just please use any other method.
Completely agree, Griff, in our blog post accompanying this video (video was filmed years ago, reupload from a purge) we stress this same point. The Dip is dangerous and other methods are more effective. - Chase
According to Wikapedia...Lead(II) acetate is also used as a mordant in textile printing and dyeing, and as a drier in paints and varnishes. It was historically used as a sweetener and preservative in wines and in other foods and for cosmetics. I does not sound like its that deadly..
@@mrflorida55 the reason why it's so concerning is due to the ability for lead acetate to be absorbed into the skin and cause lead poisoning. Unlike elemental lead, which needs to be directly consumed or inhaled, lead acetate is absorbed directly into your bloodstream and takes a smaller amount to cause lead poisoning. And as wikipedia says, it "used" to be used as a cosmetic ingredient and sweetener. Lead acetate was used by the Roman Empire as a sweetener...until they found out it kills you and causes cancer, same reason why it's no longer used in cosmetics in the US.
Just HOT BOILING WATER. Fill a large pot and get a raging boil of the water. Ya don't need vinegar or anything. Just boiling water. Use a metal coat hanger as a parts hanger to suspend the parts in the water so it isn't touching the bottom and let it boil for several minutes. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes or so. When finished remove the parts and blow out the moisture and dry it. The parts will be hot enough that it will dry very quickly. Then you oil everything to protect the parts from rusting, and you're done. In the Military we used to use submerging heaters in metal trash cans full of water to boil it. We hung all the M-16/M4 parts in the water and they became super clean super fast without all the scrubbing and rubbing. Even the barrels went into the boiling water.
Such a good video... but so poorly executed - why are there no close ups of the results? before/after? A video like this is really necessary --- but there's not even any commentary about which route is the best to use?
Guys just a side note that will help is use the cleaner called CLR instead of old purple power that crap will eat paint off a car. CLR degreaser 50/50 with water in ultra sonic cleaner and you will thank me.
Instead of dawn - which has ingredients to foam - use dish washer soap. Its designed not to foam and be more concentrated than dawn. Means you use less, and no foam to deal with!
You didn’t cover suppressors that are sealed. I have an Omega 9K. What is the recommended cleaning method for a sealed can? How do you know when it has been sufficiently cleaned?
I use the same wet tumbler shown in the vid for the steel baffles and pistons from my Octanes, as well as the half tubes from my Sparrow. Works great. Oh, and I don't throw in the outer tubes. The inside of the tubes easily wipe clean with a little help from a nylon brush. No need to risk damaging their finish.
I almost thought he would never allow beaver a chance to speak😂🤣. Once he said he doesn’t like to clean things I totally tuned him out while saying well I don’t want to listen to you. Lets hear from the guy who does.
I'm running a titanium 22lr can and I'm sick of cleaning it by hand. I shoot 500 rounds a week through it and I'm obsessed with keeping it clean. From what I gather here my quickest, easiest, cheapest and best bet would be to use an ultrasonic cleaner with a CLR solution. Just for the baffles, I don't want to mess up the tube finish. I can get a small, cheap ultra cleaner for about 50 bucks. Sound about right?
I ultrasonic my 22 baffles for quite a while to remove all the carbon. Then I soak in hoppes #9 taking out once a day to scrub a bit. By day three there is no more lead. And they were CAKED. Probably could have made a couple 12 gauge slugs with all the lead.
Guys your video shows shouldn’t use chemistry. No safety glasses over your eyes going in the dip. You tip them up taking the parts out of the dip. Come on.
Would a ceramic coating help for buildup prevention and make cleaning easier? Most quality ceramic compounds are inorganic or high temperature polymers
I equate this level of cleaning an exercise in futility. Its like cleaning the combustion chamber or intakes of a DI engine perfectly clean. It will only get dirty again. Granted it will build up again slower initially due to lower surface area for the fouling material grab onto, but that will soon pass also. Nylon brush and some Hoope cleaner FTW IMO.
I own the Hybrid46, Omega36m, Omega 300, Switchback and 2 Evo's. I have a full size ultra sonic cleaner (space for a complete m4) with plastic baskets if I were going to clean them I planned on using aircraft grade "simple green". I thought the cleaner I selected and this ultra sonic cleaner would greatly limit the damage or wear to my cans. Is my thought process correct? Luv SiCo products I'll be adding a couple Chimera's and Salvo's to the collection, I also have 6 of the SiCo charging handles.
As far as the actual structural integrity of those suppressors they will be 100% fine, no damage at all, but ultrasonic cleaners can damage coatings commonly used on suppressors JD. - Chase
But the cost of buying a 5.7 gun & ammo just to clean a suppressor is a great excuse to buy more toys. “But honey this is my new suppressor cleaning tool” 😂
Why is it so hard to just film a short video on how to clean each suppressor? I have an Omega 36m and it’s like pulling fuckin teeth to find a video on how to clean the damn thing. Other than “buy an ultrasonic.”
I sometimes have trouble separating the baffles. Do you recommend placing grease or anti-seize on the rims where the baffles snap together and on the threads, etc? Are there some that are less likely to burn off or create a lot of smoke when hot?
We don't recommend any sort of lube on the baffles, if you're having trouble separating the baffles lightly tap them against a table, that will help break up some of the carbon locking them together. Check out this video, Eagle : ua-cam.com/video/wgGGq5vurmc/v-deo.html
Soooo, regarding the use of the “ultra-sonic” tank, and aluminum..? Is it the sonic waves that are doing the damage to threads & sharp edges..? And not so much the cleaner(s) themselves..? Great video, Thank you.
That is correct, it has less to do with the solvents and more to do with the ultrasonic vibration, aluminum is more porous and can erode when subjected to those forces. - Chase
Yep, those fucking shitbags product caused my uncle's sharp mental decline. He went from a sharp guy trying to fight grey hair to being in memory care. Also lost feeling in his hands and feet. Apparently there's no point in even sue them because people already tried that in the late 90's. Grecian stated it was in there on the bottle, which is horse shit because it wasn't like a big warning label or anything, it was in small text, and you can't expect the average person to read the bottle and catch that. If it's being sold on the shelf people for the most part just trust there isn't insanely bad things in it because of FDA approval and all that. Grecian executives ought to be forced to drink lead milkshakes until they loose feeling in their extremities and their noodles rot just like what happened to some of their customers!
@ 20:59 I saw what I was looking for. How to get the baffles that are stuck together apart without damaging them! And I couldn't believe I hadn't thought of it.🙄 Good video!
I’m only about 60 days away from getting my first can approved. Have several rolling in over the summer. Really appreciate these cleaning videos, Chase. I’ll be an expert on cleaning now!
I would imagine you can't adequately clean the lead acetate out of a sealed can when it's finished reacting. That means it will get blown out by high pressure gases when you go shoot and then you get to breathe it. Seems like a bad idea...
Rifle suppressors do not require heavy cleaning, Randy. Becuase those rounds are jacketed, and produce high heat and pressure, they do not build up lead and carbon the same way rimfire silencers do. - Chase
The dry tumble did not surprise me, as Beaver said it's not what a dry tumbler is made for. I have tried several kinds of stuff in dry tumblers and it really is only to polish not clean. Good video Beaver needs to lighten up a little or is he just not used to being videoed.
I use a small jelly jar, place baffles inside and spray with wipe-out bore foam. It melted everything including a thick coating of lead in about 30 minutes. Just wipe clean after. I think if you left it for 2 hours it would clean all the tight areas too. I do not do the tubes in the wipeout. I have a tbac-22 takedown stainless/titanium
So the guy is saying dont use the chemical that breaks down the lead. It apears to me the lead IS NOT the problem. The problem is the contamination of the people and enviroment is the chemical.
Bought a utra sound thingy that is suppose to remove toxsions from your body through your feet fo 14.00 i put in a small enough tub to fit all the dirty suppresors and sit it out side with cpl and water less than an hour later all carbon and lead is gone.
Hopefully, you guys look back at these from time to time. I've been using the ulrasonic cleaner with simple green extreme. It's designed for aircraft aluminum. It has discolored/removed some of the finishes. But, I don't believe it has done any damage other than that. I have run aluminum parts through it a lot.
Any hope to remove melted moving blanket off of the outside tube? I allowed a buddy to shoot my omega and they had a moving blanket on the plastic folding table to keep things from sliding off... and instead of setting rifles down with barrels and suppressors hanging over the edge like everyone else... he just plopped it down without thinking. It immediately melted the blanket. I've seen plastic melt onto a can that after cooling, just peeled right off. These blanket fibers, not so much. I coated them in CLP and even scrubbed with a brass brush... but left about 50% baked on. Only thing i thought of was heating the can in an oven to melt the fibers but what would i use to wipe off of the materials if it got soft again?
It's amazing how much they charge for one of these. the cost to make them is so low that you would crap your pants if you knew. i will say that if they sold any one of these for 100.00 usd, they would make a good profit. i used to work for one of these companies.
Have you considered the cost of R&D and marketing? Also, are you familiar with the cost of the tooling to mass manufacture things that require this level of tolerances?
@@mitchodds I see what your saying and you are right. But, a lot of companies will gather up everything thats been made by other companies , look over how well they have done with a certain suppressor and then work from there. most of them never really start from scratch. The OSS suppressor is one that for sure started from scratch and does prove me wrong. You are right about the tooling and marketing. I was wrong for not including that. The titanium parts are harder to make and shorten a cutting tools life a lot faster than a tool for stainless or aluminum. I would like to know how the makers of solvent traps made from titanium can sell them at 100-120 usd. Ive held those in my hand and they were well made. the company i worked for made what i call basic cone baffle types and a couple of people that were working in the office had told me that most of what they make is about 85 percent profit. so, that is where i got my info from my first statement.
I feel like I was watching Super Troopers, and the word to try and use the most times at a traffic stop was "guy." Dewie managed to say "guy" 368 times in one hour. Nicely done. Meow get back to work.
Because its a sealed suppressor, we do not recommend using the Hybrid for 22lr, we would advise checking with SilencerCo about cleaning recommendations.
Just bought my first tube a sparrow and i was hoping the dry tumbler worked but figured it wouldn't. I can say my smaller hornady sonic cleaner is a disappointment and nearly an electric noise making device in comparison to the larger style Lymans etc. Gonna dip cores and use a drill/12g brush and an old cleaning rod for the outer tube
I have a Saker 762 that is welded so obviously I can't remove the baffle stack, just the end caps. What's the best way to clean it, do I just put the can in the Ultrasonic cleaner with the caps off?
I boiled my saker with some simple green. Took quite a bit of stuff out, and then it softened the carbon in the blast chamber so I could scrape it clean easier. And dried very fast due to the heat. Worked great.
Will that setup (switch back) with the blast chamber and four stacked baffle design hold up well with a 12.5" 5.56????? Using at least stainless steel....
Sealed rifle silencers are sort of self cleaning, the heat and pressure helps evacuate any carbon. But you can use cleaning solutions like Suppressor X, or newer suppressor specific solvents.
@@joshjosh575 well you are right, but that's only on centrefire rifle cans. Pistol and rimfire is a must to maintain and clean them. I can't imagine what your 22 can looks like inside.
@@HOMELESSG0D nice a tight. Baffles nice layer of carbon that acts as a extra layer of sound mitigator. Like foam in a room to mitigate vibration. And the tightness compresses the air and forces the air through the baffles and tight adjusted and times perfected. Like a Glock when you run it hard to smooth out any imperfections.
You guys make this too complicated, I own a bunch of your suppressors and cleaning is simple: If you have a take apart can, remove the baffles/mono core If the baffles are stainless, put them in the dip for a few hours Remove them and after they dry, then scrape off anything left on them with a brass or other non-scratching tool. If you are OCD, then soda blast them to perfection. Wear protective gloves and don't get a single drop of the dip on you while removing the baffles from the dip, as it is lead acetate and absorbs right through the skin. You can reuse the dip a couple times, but once you figure its used up, let it totally evaporate in a safe well ventilated place where it won't get spilled, and you'll be left with relatively harmless dry lead oxide. You can mix in epsom salts too if you want to try and precipitate out the lead to make the mixture safer while it's evaporating, but I sill wouldn't get any on yourself. If you have aluminum baffles, (or titanium as well) your only real option is soda blasting alone. Wear a respirator so you don't breath in the dust from this. As far as the outer tubes and end caps, brakes ect. if they are anodized or black nitrided finish, just brush out the inside of them with gun solvent and a nylon brush, or if they are real dirty, then soda blast them as well, you won't hurt their finish that way. The only accessories I throw in the dip are pistons, as they are already just naked stainless, so have no finish to ruin, but don't throw booster springs in there, as they are not stainless. Tumblers and ultrasonic cleaners tend to destroy and/or wear anything put in them, and even on relatively robust stainless baffles, don't do as good of a job as the methods I just mentioned. I'd just skip them all together. On centerfire rifle cans, you shouldn't have to do much of anything as long as you shoot 5.56 or larger calibers through them, they are almost self cleaning because of the high pressures involved. If you have a sealed pistol can like the Omega 9K that is all stainless construction, you can cork the muzzle end and then fill it with dip and let it sit several hours, then drain it off and repeat a couple times with fresh dip, and it will eat most of what is in there, which shouldn't be much if you don't shoot non-jacketed bullets (which you should never do through a sealed can). Then rinse inside with water and blow it out with an air compressor. Heat it just with a hair dryer or leave it in the hot sun a couple hours to remove any residual moisture and a few smart raps on a soft wood block will dislodge any carbon crust or bits left behind and you can shake them out. .
I have found CLR to do the job the best. I have been using CLR on all my cans and they are all like new. But its no secret that it takes time. I also found an even better way to minimize the work cleaning cans by putting a light coat of froglube paste on the baffles and piston and any part exposed to carbon. when froglubed it will just wipe of easily. I would use non of the examples here because it damages the cans
Purple power has lye in it (sodium hydroxide) which smuts & pits aluminum. Use one like simple green extreme (not normal simple green). Also because the cleaners are more basic, if you use the heater in the ultrasonic you need to start with a way weaker mixture (start with 1/4 strength) if using heat. Three things to play with (one at a time) with ultrasonic: stronger concentration, hotter solution, longer run. Learned this from some of the better classic carburetor restorers in the US.
You don't need peroxide with the white vinegar. Soaking is a solution. Gloves are the answer. Stop sniffing the glue check out what white vinegar can do for you. Do not put your outer tube in vinegar that's the part you can manually clean. Now I feel like I need to go get a bunch of tattoos
I’ve ran the stainless steal Sparrow core and half tubes in a Frankford armory rotary tumbler with 3 changes of Hot water and Dawn for 6 total hours and it was perfectly clean.
I did remove the O-rings from the mono core.
Thanks for sharing your experience, Glock! - Chase
I wonder how hard it was to not add “tard” 🤣🤣🤣
I work in the chemistry field, I cannot stress this enough. DO NOT USE THE DIP! Lead acetate is extremely dangerous and is extremely hard to properly dispose of. Lead is typically introduced through ingestion/inhalation, the exception is lead acetate which will go straight into your bloodstream from skin contact. It's a horrible idea, just please use any other method.
Completely agree, Griff, in our blog post accompanying this video (video was filmed years ago, reupload from a purge) we stress this same point. The Dip is dangerous and other methods are more effective. - Chase
@@SilencerShop I thought this video looked familiar. Thanks for your input regarding this guys!
According to Wikapedia...Lead(II) acetate is also used as a mordant in textile printing and dyeing, and as a drier in paints and varnishes. It was historically used as a sweetener and preservative in wines and in other foods and for cosmetics. I does not sound like its that deadly..
@@mrflorida55 the reason why it's so concerning is due to the ability for lead acetate to be absorbed into the skin and cause lead poisoning. Unlike elemental lead, which needs to be directly consumed or inhaled, lead acetate is absorbed directly into your bloodstream and takes a smaller amount to cause lead poisoning. And as wikipedia says, it "used" to be used as a cosmetic ingredient and sweetener. Lead acetate was used by the Roman Empire as a sweetener...until they found out it kills you and causes cancer, same reason why it's no longer used in cosmetics in the US.
@@GriffXJ Good info for sure it penantrate plastic gloves?
Just HOT BOILING WATER. Fill a large pot and get a raging boil of the water. Ya don't need vinegar or anything. Just boiling water. Use a metal coat hanger as a parts hanger to suspend the parts in the water so it isn't touching the bottom and let it boil for several minutes. Maybe 10 to 15 minutes or so. When finished remove the parts and blow out the moisture and dry it. The parts will be hot enough that it will dry very quickly. Then you oil everything to protect the parts from rusting, and you're done. In the Military we used to use submerging heaters in metal trash cans full of water to boil it. We hung all the M-16/M4 parts in the water and they became super clean super fast without all the scrubbing and rubbing. Even the barrels went into the boiling water.
And that takes melted on lead powder off? I can see the carbon but lead?
Such a good video... but so poorly executed - why are there no close ups of the results? before/after? A video like this is really necessary --- but there's not even any commentary about which route is the best to use?
Yep. Great video, but could have been so much better. It’s tough for me to take seriously anyone wearing a backwards hat too 😂
Guys just a side note that will help is use the cleaner called CLR instead of old purple power that crap will eat paint off a car. CLR degreaser 50/50 with water in ultra sonic cleaner and you will thank me.
Instead of dawn - which has ingredients to foam - use dish washer soap. Its designed not to foam and be more concentrated than dawn. Means you use less, and no foam to deal with!
Great tip, Chomper!
Great idea. That would probably work great in a brass tumbler too.
You didn’t cover suppressors that are sealed. I have an Omega 9K. What is the recommended cleaning method for a sealed can? How do you know when it has been sufficiently cleaned?
You can’t clean it. Whoever invented sealed cans is a complete buffoon
You mean silencerco are buffoons. Okay
Hopps number 9, just because it smells Great. Love it Bever
Wasted an hour watching this “experiment “ with no real best solutions given. The title is very misleading
I use the same wet tumbler shown in the vid for the steel baffles and pistons from my Octanes, as well as the half tubes from my Sparrow. Works great. Oh, and I don't throw in the outer tubes. The inside of the tubes easily wipe clean with a little help from a nylon brush. No need to risk damaging their finish.
Great tip!
Do you use steel media like they did, too??
I almost thought he would never allow beaver a chance to speak😂🤣. Once he said he doesn’t like to clean things I totally tuned him out while saying well I don’t want to listen to you. Lets hear from the guy who does.
Ole Beaver doesn’t seem too interested in talking.
Just leave in a tank of CLR over night
I'm running a titanium 22lr can and I'm sick of cleaning it by hand. I shoot 500 rounds a week through it and I'm obsessed with keeping it clean. From what I gather here my quickest, easiest, cheapest and best bet would be to use an ultrasonic cleaner with a CLR solution. Just for the baffles, I don't want to mess up the tube finish. I can get a small, cheap ultra cleaner for about 50 bucks. Sound about right?
Seems like the parts running with the outer tube would abrade ,,the outer tube finish (dry tumble)
I ultrasonic my 22 baffles for quite a while to remove all the carbon. Then I soak in hoppes #9 taking out once a day to scrub a bit. By day three there is no more lead. And they were CAKED. Probably could have made a couple 12 gauge slugs with all the lead.
Nice! Thanks for sharing your experience. - Chase
Guys your video shows shouldn’t use chemistry. No safety glasses over your eyes going in the dip. You tip them up taking the parts out of the dip. Come on.
Ok, I have a warlock....can I use the ultrasonic but use some dawn dish soap instead of the chemicals?
Would a ceramic coating help for buildup prevention and make cleaning easier? Most quality ceramic compounds are inorganic or high temperature polymers
Dude in the tan shirt shouldn’t have been used in the video. Just yes and no answers. He also looks depressed.
What about soaking in Hoppes #9 for a steel or Aluminum suppressor?
It will not damage the metal, Leroy, but it could affect the finish - Chase
I equate this level of cleaning an exercise in futility. Its like cleaning the combustion chamber or intakes of a DI engine perfectly clean. It will only get dirty again. Granted it will build up again slower initially due to lower surface area for the fouling material grab onto, but that will soon pass also. Nylon brush and some Hoope cleaner FTW IMO.
To each there own! As long as you clean it every so often you'll continue to get good performance!
Lots of talk but no real answeres. Click bait. Thumbs DOWN !!!
This was quite uninformative for the average Joe looking to learn how to clean their suppressor.
I own the Hybrid46, Omega36m, Omega 300, Switchback and 2 Evo's. I have a full size ultra sonic cleaner (space for a complete m4) with plastic baskets if I were going to clean them I planned on using aircraft grade "simple green". I thought the cleaner I selected and this ultra sonic cleaner would greatly limit the damage or wear to my cans. Is my thought process correct? Luv SiCo products I'll be adding a couple Chimera's and Salvo's to the collection, I also have 6 of the SiCo charging handles.
As far as the actual structural integrity of those suppressors they will be 100% fine, no damage at all, but ultrasonic cleaners can damage coatings commonly used on suppressors JD. - Chase
@@SilencerShop Thanks I will be careful and use the ultrasonic cleaner sparingly
If it’s a big no no? Then why are yall even doing it with vinegar and peroxide?
Jesus, 10+ minutes in and still talking about how they get dirty…
how yall feel about 22 supressor thats rated for 5.7 also, shoot some 5.7 through it, would the higher pressure help break off some of that 22lr lead?
The higher pressure and heat can help to blow out some of the lead and carbon, still important to clear the suppressor occasionally, kypham. - Chase
But the cost of buying a 5.7 gun & ammo just to clean a suppressor is a great excuse to buy more toys.
“But honey this is my new suppressor cleaning tool” 😂
🤣 I like the way you think!
@@SilencerShop i like that you guys made it much much easier to get suppressor so thank you
I just dump the leftovers from my ultrasonic cleaning in the local creek. lol (No, Not really. Seriously, I would never do that. I dont.)
PLEASE DONT DO THAT
Why is it so hard to just film a short video on how to clean each suppressor? I have an Omega 36m and it’s like pulling fuckin teeth to find a video on how to clean the damn thing. Other than “buy an ultrasonic.”
There are also new cleaning solutions that would work! HUXWRX is coming out with one soon.
Rock of the Marne
I sometimes have trouble separating the baffles. Do you recommend placing grease or anti-seize on the rims where the baffles snap together and on the threads, etc? Are there some that are less likely to burn off or create a lot of smoke when hot?
We don't recommend any sort of lube on the baffles, if you're having trouble separating the baffles lightly tap them against a table, that will help break up some of the carbon locking them together. Check out this video, Eagle : ua-cam.com/video/wgGGq5vurmc/v-deo.html
Soooo,
regarding the use of the “ultra-sonic” tank, and aluminum..? Is it the sonic waves that are doing the damage to threads & sharp edges..? And not so much the cleaner(s) themselves..?
Great video,
Thank you.
That is correct, it has less to do with the solvents and more to do with the ultrasonic vibration, aluminum is more porous and can erode when subjected to those forces. - Chase
@@SilencerShop ok, thank you very much for the response back.
Ultrasonic cleaners work by cavitation, which can be destructive. I'm certain that if they were to dial in, they can find an aluminum safe frequency.
waste of time watching ... trust me and find another video
Question: can i use my ultrasonic cleaner with simple green to clean my KAC Mk.23 suppressor, without it removing the suppressor's finish?
Ultrasonics are usually at risk of damaging the silencers finish
Lead Acetate was used in Grecian Formula hair dye for men until 2018!
Yep, those fucking shitbags product caused my uncle's sharp mental decline. He went from a sharp guy trying to fight grey hair to being in memory care. Also lost feeling in his hands and feet. Apparently there's no point in even sue them because people already tried that in the late 90's. Grecian stated it was in there on the bottle, which is horse shit because it wasn't like a big warning label or anything, it was in small text, and you can't expect the average person to read the bottle and catch that. If it's being sold on the shelf people for the most part just trust there isn't insanely bad things in it because of FDA approval and all that.
Grecian executives ought to be forced to drink lead milkshakes until they loose feeling in their extremities and their noodles rot just like what happened to some of their customers!
I stand my firearm muzzle device down in a container of carbon killer, ultra sonic for the cans. Thanks for the info. on the various methods.
Awesome suggestion, Mark!
If carb cleaner or brand cleaner doesn't work, I'm not gonna purchase suppressor. Finish won't worry Me, it's titanium...dob1945usaDOC..
@ 20:59 I saw what I was looking for. How to get the baffles that are stuck together apart without damaging them! And I couldn't believe I hadn't thought of it.🙄
Good video!
AWESOME, glad we could help!
I’m only about 60 days away from getting my first can approved. Have several rolling in over the summer. Really appreciate these cleaning videos, Chase. I’ll be an expert on cleaning now!
Nice! You are in the home stretch! - Chase
Would the dip be okay for a hardened stainless rifle suppressor (sealed can)?
It can work, Eric. Some brands also recommend soaking in CLP as well. Be careful about disposal when using the dip. - Chase
I would imagine you can't adequately clean the lead acetate out of a sealed can when it's finished reacting. That means it will get blown out by high pressure gases when you go shoot and then you get to breathe it. Seems like a bad idea...
I have an Omega 36M. I use it on 9mm handguns, plus 5.56, and 308 rifles. What do you recommend for cleaning? Thanks!
Rifle suppressors do not require heavy cleaning, Randy. Becuase those rounds are jacketed, and produce high heat and pressure, they do not build up lead and carbon the same way rimfire silencers do. - Chase
The dry tumble did not surprise me, as Beaver said it's not what a dry tumbler is made for. I have tried several kinds of stuff in dry tumblers and it really is only to polish not clean. Good video Beaver needs to lighten up a little or is he just not used to being videoed.
You're correct Blue, they're really made for cleaning brass and polishing small parts, this wasn't the correct application. - Chase
My second Omega 300. Serial number is barely legible. Brand new
I noticed the book didn’t really give great instructions for cleaning.
I use a small jelly jar, place baffles inside and spray with wipe-out bore foam. It melted everything including a thick coating of lead in about 30 minutes. Just wipe clean after. I think if you left it for 2 hours it would clean all the tight areas too. I do not do the tubes in the wipeout. I have a tbac-22 takedown stainless/titanium
What do you suggest for a Harvester .30? I'm wondering about putting it in my RCBS sonic cleaner.
So the guy is saying dont use the chemical that breaks down the lead. It apears to me the lead IS NOT the problem. The problem is the contamination of the people and enviroment is the chemical.
Jewelry is cleaned in ultrasonic bath. How about suppressors?
Can I just throw my DeadAir Sandman and my SilencerCo 36m in the ultrasonic cleaner??
I call my Sparrow "911" because it's so loud, the cops are on their way.
Bought a utra sound thingy that is suppose to remove toxsions from your body through your feet fo 14.00 i put in a small enough tub to fit all the dirty suppresors and sit it out side with cpl and water less than an hour later all carbon and lead is gone.
What a waste of time. Should have showed what they use to clean a titanium suppersor, or any other that you sell.
Hopefully, you guys look back at these from time to time.
I've been using the ulrasonic cleaner with simple green extreme. It's designed for aircraft aluminum. It has discolored/removed some of the finishes. But, I don't believe it has done any damage other than that. I have run aluminum parts through it a lot.
The aluminum should be fine, some coatings are not solvent-proof though.
I have found that coating the internals with Silicone oil when clean, it makes it easier to clean as the carbon and lead does not stick as well
What brand
Beaver hates his life ORRRRR just hates blue shirt guy 🤣🤷♂️
I have heard that “The Dip”will destroy aluminum.
Any hope to remove melted moving blanket off of the outside tube? I allowed a buddy to shoot my omega and they had a moving blanket on the plastic folding table to keep things from sliding off... and instead of setting rifles down with barrels and suppressors hanging over the edge like everyone else... he just plopped it down without thinking. It immediately melted the blanket. I've seen plastic melt onto a can that after cooling, just peeled right off. These blanket fibers, not so much. I coated them in CLP and even scrubbed with a brass brush... but left about 50% baked on. Only thing i thought of was heating the can in an oven to melt the fibers but what would i use to wipe off of the materials if it got soft again?
Wait, did I miss the results from the Soda Blasting??
Well, leave it to Beaver.🤣 Sorry, I couldn't resist.
I love my cgs Al hydra but it’s a fckn nightmare to clean
It's amazing how much they charge for one of these. the cost to make them is so low that you would crap your pants if you knew. i will say that if they sold any one of these for 100.00 usd, they would make a good profit. i used to work for one of these companies.
Have you considered the cost of R&D and marketing? Also, are you familiar with the cost of the tooling to mass manufacture things that require this level of tolerances?
@@mitchodds I see what your saying and you are right. But, a lot of companies will gather up everything thats been made by other companies , look over how well they have done with a certain suppressor and then work from there. most of them never really start from scratch. The OSS suppressor is one that for sure started from scratch and does prove me wrong. You are right about the tooling and marketing. I was wrong for not including that. The titanium parts are harder to make and shorten a cutting tools life a lot faster than a tool for stainless or aluminum. I would like to know how the makers of solvent traps made from titanium can sell them at 100-120 usd. Ive held those in my hand and they were well made. the company i worked for made what i call basic cone baffle types and a couple of people that were working in the office had told me that most of what they make is about 85 percent profit. so, that is where i got my info from my first statement.
Turn off the "music" (i do not remember anything you said ) !
I feel like I was watching Super Troopers, and the word to try and use the most times at a traffic stop was "guy." Dewie managed to say "guy" 368 times in one hour. Nicely done. Meow get back to work.
🤣🤣🤣
Nice Panerai!
Thank you very much!
So how do I clean my cans? Seems like you were less than thrilled with the results of every one of those tests.
We liked the wet tumbler and brush methods, the soda blaster worked well but also takes a lot of special equipment. - Chase
@@SilencerShop You showed the tubes being beaten up and the finish starting to fade. How would the wet tumbler work with a warlock?
I would not recommend putting outer tubes in a tumbler, the baffles are the most important part, the tubes can be easily wiped clean by hand. - Chase
@@SilencerShop But the aluminum baffles in a warlock would be ok in a wet tumbler.
That was a great video thank you alot of information
Glad it was helpful!
Basically called beaver his house baitch jk
Try Lucas gun metal polish!
Have you tried Hoppes #9 and or Kroil on the aluminum?
We have not, Hoppes can be abrasive so may not be recommended.
Hurry up get to the cleaning
I have the Silencerco Hybrid 46M, I use it on everything from .22lr to .308 and 9mm. What do you suggest using to clean it?
Because its a sealed suppressor, we do not recommend using the Hybrid for 22lr, we would advise checking with SilencerCo about cleaning recommendations.
@@SilencerShop thank you. I will check with them.
At the end when you were summing things up you didn't even mention the ultrasonic. It looked like the best method to me.
Ultrasonic is a good option, provided the coating and material are rated for US use.
Just bought my first tube a sparrow and i was hoping the dry tumbler worked but figured it wouldn't. I can say my smaller hornady sonic cleaner is a disappointment and nearly an electric noise making device in comparison to the larger style Lymans etc. Gonna dip cores and use a drill/12g brush and an old cleaning rod for the outer tube
Be very careful with the dip and dispose properly. - Chase
Ultrasonics do a fantastic job. You still need a little touch up on some parts but they save TONS of time.
🙌🙌
I have a Saker 762 that is welded so obviously I can't remove the baffle stack, just the end caps. What's the best way to clean it, do I just put the can in the Ultrasonic cleaner with the caps off?
Most rifle cans do not require in-depth cleaning, you may want to look into a CLP soak to break down some of the carbon. - Chase
I boiled my saker with some simple green. Took quite a bit of stuff out, and then it softened the carbon in the blast chamber so I could scrape it clean easier. And dried very fast due to the heat. Worked great.
I think Beaver's shirt shrank overnight 😂
🤣
I wonder how ceramic media would have worked in the dry tumbler?
Havent tried it, I know guy who have used ceramic for brass cases with good results though.
Wow, really
Expansion tube won't come out, please help
I have a Banish 30
Will that setup (switch back) with the blast chamber and four stacked baffle design hold up well with a 12.5" 5.56????? Using at least stainless steel....
The Switchback is not rated for 5.56
@@SilencerShop but there are stainless steel cans/baffles that are correct?
The Griffin Optimus Micro might be worth looking at!
Beaver, smile
On the 300 Omega, what are the shims used for?
Timing the muzzle device.
I have a q erector 9 and I was wondering is soda blasting would work
You'll want to reach out to Q to verify, Austin. - Chase
Hop-ees, not Hops.
Bro why is this 1 hour long lmfao
Testing a bunch of different methods!
Tell me how to clean my RC2
Sealed rifle silencers are sort of self cleaning, the heat and pressure helps evacuate any carbon.
But you can use cleaning solutions like Suppressor X, or newer suppressor specific solvents.
eye protection on ? oops.
Safety first!
I have 25k rounds through my 22 deadair mask. No cleaning ever. You don’t need to clean it.
yikes, you defiantly need to clean that.
@@HOMELESSG0D self cleans and only got better sound with carbon build up. You guys are wrong. Run a can “dirt” you’ll see what I mean.
@@joshjosh575 well you are right, but that's only on centrefire rifle cans. Pistol and rimfire is a must to maintain and clean them. I can't imagine what your 22 can looks like inside.
@@HOMELESSG0D nice a tight. Baffles nice layer of carbon that acts as a extra layer of sound mitigator. Like foam in a room to mitigate vibration. And the tightness compresses the air and forces the air through the baffles and tight adjusted and times perfected. Like a Glock when you run it hard to smooth out any imperfections.
*ultra sonic and CLR*
That is a great solution, just be mindful of coatings!
Very impressive presentation 👍
CLR CLEANING SOLUTIONS
CLR is a good option for some suppressors! - Chase
You guys make this too complicated, I own a bunch of your suppressors and cleaning is simple:
If you have a take apart can, remove the baffles/mono core
If the baffles are stainless, put them in the dip for a few hours
Remove them and after they dry, then scrape off anything left on them with a brass or other non-scratching tool. If you are OCD, then soda blast them to perfection.
Wear protective gloves and don't get a single drop of the dip on you while removing the baffles from the dip, as it is lead acetate and absorbs right through the skin. You can reuse the dip a couple times, but once you figure its used up, let it totally evaporate in a safe well ventilated place where it won't get spilled, and you'll be left with relatively harmless dry lead oxide. You can mix in epsom salts too if you want to try and precipitate out the lead to make the mixture safer while it's evaporating, but I sill wouldn't get any on yourself.
If you have aluminum baffles, (or titanium as well) your only real option is soda blasting alone. Wear a respirator so you don't breath in the dust from this.
As far as the outer tubes and end caps, brakes ect. if they are anodized or black nitrided finish, just brush out the inside of them with gun solvent and a nylon brush, or if they are real dirty, then soda blast them as well, you won't hurt their finish that way. The only accessories I throw in the dip are pistons, as they are already just naked stainless, so have no finish to ruin, but don't throw booster springs in there, as they are not stainless.
Tumblers and ultrasonic cleaners tend to destroy and/or wear anything put in them, and even on relatively robust stainless baffles, don't do as good of a job as the methods I just mentioned. I'd just skip them all together.
On centerfire rifle cans, you shouldn't have to do much of anything as long as you shoot 5.56 or larger calibers through them, they are almost self cleaning because of the high pressures involved. If you have a sealed pistol can like the Omega 9K that is all stainless construction, you can cork the muzzle end and then fill it with dip and let it sit several hours, then drain it off and repeat a couple times with fresh dip, and it will eat most of what is in there, which shouldn't be much if you don't shoot non-jacketed bullets (which you should never do through a sealed can). Then rinse inside with water and blow it out with an air compressor. Heat it just with a hair dryer or leave it in the hot sun a couple hours to remove any residual moisture and a few smart raps on a soft wood block will dislodge any carbon crust or bits left behind and you can shake them out.
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Awesome tips!
I have found CLR to do the job the best. I have been using CLR on all my cans and they are all like new. But its no secret that it takes time. I also found an even better way to minimize the work cleaning cans by putting a light coat of froglube paste on the baffles and piston and any part exposed to carbon. when froglubed it will just wipe of easily. I would use non of the examples here because it damages the cans
Great feedback, thank you!
Yep thats what SureFire recommends for their RC2
I use CLR as well. Put em in plastic bags for 20 min or so then it REALLY makes cleaning easier
Purple power has lye in it (sodium hydroxide) which smuts & pits aluminum.
Use one like simple green extreme (not normal simple green).
Also because the cleaners are more basic, if you use the heater in the ultrasonic you need to start with a way weaker mixture (start with 1/4 strength) if using heat.
Three things to play with (one at a time) with ultrasonic: stronger concentration, hotter solution, longer run.
Learned this from some of the better classic carburetor restorers in the US.
Naw break clean
Just be careful of coated parts!
@@SilencerShop as in the housing?
You don't need peroxide with the white vinegar. Soaking is a solution. Gloves are the answer. Stop sniffing the glue check out what white vinegar can do for you. Do not put your outer tube in vinegar that's the part you can manually clean. Now I feel like I need to go get a bunch of tattoos
Appreciate the tip, fomocore! - Chase
I'm waiting on a backordered Velos lbp in 556 through silencershop. do you guys have a guesstimation on when you will get it restocked?