I found this series a while ago. Saved it and finally have time to start going through it. Been quite a long time since I had my hands in on of these. I've forgotten some things, but remember a lot. It's looking great so far. Obviously all ended up well given the age of the series, but still....very nice to watch, thanks.
I may be wrong,but I thought the back side of the bearings were to remain dry. I always use Lubriplate 105 assembly lube only on the side that contacts the crank
Every engine manual I've read says only lube the inside that contacts the journals & back sides are to remain dry but if that's how he does it & hasn't had any issues with spun bearings then if it works it works I guess.
Deboss garage has a video doing an I frame rebuild on a tractor shows a trick to install the bearings using a bent screw stuck in the crank to roll the bearings up over. His channel and yours are awesome and very informative thank you.
I will give u a free tip on getting those main bearing inserts out. When I was inframing like that I used a brake shoe rivet to spin those upper inserts our make sure the head on the rivet is big enough to not fall down into the hole on the crankshaft IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM
I've made bearing rollers for several engines. just take a clevis pin and shave it down to fit. Has made life much easier for removal and installation in some cases
Hi Gordon on a cummins I have used a stiff putty knife or I have used a quarter inch bolt and ground the head down just under the thickness of the bearing and rolled them in by turning the crank
I did most of the rest of them with a 3/8" bolt which was a little loose, if I had any more trouble, I would have gone to a 10 mm and ground the head, I was already thinking that direction when I was struggling with the one that had the thrust bearing but I got it done. Yes the crank is original, std.
hey Gordon. watching your video in the beginning you have the thrust washer grooves out. Then when you installed them again you have the groves facing in. when you install the bearing into the block, the grooves are supposed to face out correct. thanks in advance.
I think I remember that, when I first assembled it on the ground for the video it was wrong and when I was ready to install it I had to turn it around.
My bearing rolling in tool was made from a bit of an old worn bearing with a pin soldered in it. Very simple and makes short work of pushing the bearings into the upper mains.
I learned a little trick with a rivet to remove those upper halves of the main bearings by putting the rivet into the oil hole and rotating the crank will push that bearing right out
if you remove all the main bolts except one in the front and one in the back (just loosen) and be sure the fan belts are loose (do not turn the crank) the crank drops down a couple of thousands and you can roll the mains out and in lickety split eh. no special tool needed. if you turn the crank with it dropped down then you will tear the crank seals. if you pull out std bearings be sure to install std bearings.
probably elbow deep in a s60.. after a few hundred in frames you can do a real descent job in 30 hrs. you learn tricks and where to spend the most attention. that Frisbee failure you had was quite common on those pre egr engines. I didn't watch every video you put out. did you replace the head? if so did you adj. the idler gear backlash?
I had the head done at a machine shop, no I didn't adjust the idler since it's much more to the side than under the cam gear so I knew if they took off .010 it would lower the head at best .002 which doesn't concern me in the least, the gasket would vary more than that. I'm quite sure I did a much better job than any dealer or Clarke Diesel would have done for me.
Just Askin, But wold it be a good idea to go with NEW rod and cap bolts? As opposed to using the old ones over again. Reason I ask is, with the amount of torque being applied, and the seriousness of what your holding, I think I'd go with new bolts. Like you done with your head bolts.
The rod bolts don't get much strain, all the pressure is on the rod side, anyway they were replaced in the rebuild kit, now the mains were not included in the kit and they do get all of the pressure against them but those bolts are huge. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gosh darn you're handy! That cotter pin trick was sweet. I don't quite understand how those collars lock on but I don't see myself rebuilding a series 60 this winter. How many times have you had to spit out a cup of dark coffee that wasn't coffee?
I haven't had a problem with bad coffee, I don't drink coffee when I'm working outside or in the shop, I don't stop to eat until I'm done for the day unless I have other reasons to stop, like getting parts or needing to leave for something. The cotter pin trick was not my idea, I saw that on UA-cam, I finished the rest of them with a 3/8" bolt in the hole in the crankshaft. I'm glad your following the series, it will be done in a few days but there's always something broke around here so there's always a video to do.
Hopefully never, unlike a car, the steel crank in a truck can go millions of miles and not need to be machined. You need to inspect the bearings and the journals for wear, if anything looks questionable then you need to mic all the way around the rod journals the way I did the piston rods on the video on taking out the pistons and then use a dial indicator on the main journals. Mine looked good so I didn't mic anything, besides machining the crank was not an option for me since I was laid off at the time of the rebuild. The engine has to be removed and turned upside down to take out the crank, that alone would have cost much more than the in frame rebuild.
That would work too if I cut one end off so it would have room to go on. the screw driver won't hurt anything if you don't force it, it's just those politically correct, inexperienced wannabes who always have to say something negative, that's why I jokingly said "don't tell anybody" when I used the screwdriver. Thanks for the Idea.
Gordon Robertson I gotcha I've done most all automotive but never diesel so inserting them while the crank is in place is new by me been watching all your parts of this series for when I get the semi I want which will have this engine most likely. love your videos appreciate all the info you have to give with your learning.
Hello Gordon! How did you know you didnt need the next size up bearing size for the mains and rods? Cause here in the video you are using STD... my engine has 1million and I want to do a inframe with the help of your videos but i am just curious to know if I will be ok with using just standart size
The engine has to come out and remove the timing gear case cover and the front bell housing, to change the crankshaft. I bought my truck with 619xxx miles and 6 years old, I was sure that work had never been done before I got it, that's why I bought standard sizes.
Maybe you didn't understand that you have to take out the crankshaft and have it machined down to the next size smaller to use the over size bearings. If you don't see any damage to the shaft journals, you can use it again with standard bearings. If it is damaged, you need to replace the engine or have a engine shop rebuild it, or just do it all standard anyway and hope for the best (which is what I would do)
Im about to do main bearings on my Series 60 and wondering how you did the thrust bearing and washers exactly. I dont have the "special" tool either. Did you just roll it in like the others? I cant seem to find any clear info anywhere on doing the thrust bearing with the washers. Mine only uses the thrust washers on the block side and not the cap side.
I see that I did not get to record the thrust bearings, sorry about that, I'm getting better about finding ways to mount the cameras on jobs like this. I do remember having a little trouble getting the gap to be the same on both sides of the crank where the thrust bearing fits, it would be too tight on one side and I couldn't get the bearing started in and I would tap on the crank or maybe I tried to pry it the direction to loosen the gap and it would go too far and then the other side was too tight, I used a small thin flat screw driver to wedge in the tight side tapping the handle with a hammer like a chisel and maybe I started the thrust bearing into the loose side to keep me from pushing the crank too far again or maybe I tested both sides back and forth with the thrust, I did have more control moving the crank that way and when it was the same gap on both sides I assembled the 3 bearing parts and started them in the same as all the other ones and it went together good. As I remember, getting the gap the same on both sides was the only problem I had which I fixed easy using the screwdriver.
I forgot to mention I used a 3/8 bolt in the oil hole in the crank to roll the bearings in after the cotter pin was trying to go under the end of the bearings and wedge them outward. Just read all the comments and replies on all these videos and you should be ok. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm in the process of doing an in frame on my engine, Just did the thrust washers just rolled them in just like the rest of them but did have to pry the crank forward to get it started.
Thank you. Going to be attempting it this week hopefully and I hope it goes pretty quick and painless. My oil pan started leaking at the plug area (oil pan developed a crack) and I have to replace the pan so going to do the bearings as long as I have the pan off.
Drive your steer tires up on a couple pieces of 2x scraps and use two 20 ton bottle jacks under your "I beam" 1 on each side, screw out the ram 'til it just about touches the beam, jack them up all the way and you should be able to drop the pan without dropping the oil pump inside the pan.
Mine (series 60 12.7L) had 2.7 million miles at the last OH in '15 and the crank was still ok. 52 psi oil pressure hot. It threw #6 rod through the block 2 weeks ago at 3.2 million miles. Not sure what happened. I found a good used engine to swap in.
Generally it would be done in an in frame overhaul, should not need to be done before that if not experiencing low oil pressure or some other oil pressure damage like a rollover accident when the engine was not shut down immediately after turning over or started and ran for too long without oil (more than a few seconds) about a million miles for an OTR truck or maybe 400K to 600k for a city truck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gordon Robertson hey Gordon, I jsut purchased a roll over 2010 freightliner century with a DD15 engine, Im being told the same thing your saying about replacing bearings, but shouldn't I have to machine the crankshaft?? or can I use the way it is??
I don't remember the specs, I would have to look it up in the book. I'm sure you'll be fine with those torques, they sound real close to me. Thanks for watching.
Si es aceite en el diesel solo se ve un poco oscuro, no se ve separado, si se ve separado el contaminacion, a lo mejor es antifreeze. Antifreeze mezclando con diesel es muy mal. hay dos causas, si tienes un calentador de diesel que usa antifreeze, es uno y el otro es injector cups dentro de la cabeza del motor, este no es algo que puedes hacer en casa, debes llevar la cabeza a un taller de maquina motores.
Si es aceite entrando el diesel, no se que es, no se si la bomba de diesel puede hacer eso, un poco aceite dentro el diesel no hace nada, pero diesel en el aceite no es bueno, tambien debes a mirar el antifreeze a ver si tiene diesel flotando.
It was the only thing I could think of that would be the right shape and size as not to waste too much excess oil. I'll need something a little bigger for the pistons, but when? we have another week of rain coming.
One of my guys does a lot of side work out of his home garage and he constantly has two full bays, he went to a salvage yard that had a big class A motorhome totaled sitting there. He took the retractable awning off and mounted it on his garage, he said it was the best thing he ever did other than a lift:)
I've been daydreaming for years about a remedy for my dilemma but with IRS, interest rates, "equipment failure" lay off at the steel mill, and the list keeps growing, all I can do is one day at a time, in other words I can't pay for a roof extension. I would like to have a sheet metal carport 10' wide and 24' long and tall enough for my truck that I can redesign to be portable that I can move around with the Bobcat. I don't have room in front of my garage for a permanent roof extension, but I can park a portable one in the driveway along side my house or across the street at my other property.
I found this series a while ago. Saved it and finally have time to start going through it. Been quite a long time since I had my hands in on of these. I've forgotten some things, but remember a lot. It's looking great so far. Obviously all ended up well given the age of the series, but still....very nice to watch, thanks.
I may be wrong,but I thought the back side of the bearings were to remain dry. I always use Lubriplate 105 assembly lube only on the side that contacts the crank
Every engine manual I've read says only lube the inside that contacts the journals & back sides are to remain dry but if that's how he does it & hasn't had any issues with spun bearings then if it works it works I guess.
They are.
Deboss garage has a video doing an I frame rebuild on a tractor shows a trick to install the bearings using a bent screw stuck in the crank to roll the bearings up over. His channel and yours are awesome and very informative thank you.
Thanks for watching and the tip.
I will give u a free tip on getting those main bearing inserts out. When I was inframing like that I used a brake shoe rivet to spin those upper inserts our make sure the head on the rivet is big enough to not fall down into the hole on the crankshaft IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM
Good job on the mains!
I missed the beginning of this series....just now watching them. 😎👍
a carefully flattened cotter pin works great in the oil hole to push the bearing shells around..
Thanks.
Cool trick and saves lots of money. Especially if you're a O/O. paying all the bills.
I've made bearing rollers for several engines. just take a clevis pin and shave it down to fit. Has made life much easier for removal and installation in some cases
Thanks.
I just torqued all my mains and rods by myself and wouldn’t advise it to anyone 🥵
Hi Gordon on a cummins I have used a stiff putty knife or I have used a quarter inch bolt and ground the head down just under the thickness of the bearing and rolled them in by turning the crank
I did most of the rest of them with a 3/8" bolt which was a little loose, if I had any more trouble, I would have gone to a 10 mm and ground the head, I was already thinking that direction when I was struggling with the one that had the thrust bearing but I got it done. Yes the crank is original, std.
thank you so much for your video! it was a great help.
I like the videos 👌 keep us posted on your progress 👍
Thanks for watching.
It hard to put in a new bearing, mines ended up bent. Or to big, you made it look easy. Also how did you remove your stuck piston rod caps?
hey Gordon. watching your video in the beginning you have the thrust washer grooves out. Then when you installed them again you have the groves facing in. when you install the bearing into the block, the grooves are supposed to face out correct. thanks in advance.
I think I remember that, when I first assembled it on the ground for the video it was wrong and when I was ready to install it I had to turn it around.
My bearing rolling in tool was made from a bit of an old worn bearing with a pin soldered in it. Very simple and makes short work of pushing the bearings into the upper mains.
Well done some great progress.
Thanks Eric.
I learned a little trick with a rivet to remove those upper halves of the main bearings by putting the rivet into the oil hole and rotating the crank will push that bearing right out
Thanks for watching.
Where can I get a complete book on rebuilding my 60 2005
if you remove all the main bolts except one in the front and one in the back (just loosen) and be sure the fan belts are loose (do not turn the crank) the crank drops down a couple of thousands and you can roll the mains out and in lickety split eh. no special tool needed. if you turn the crank with it dropped down then you will tear the crank seals. if you pull out std bearings be sure to install std bearings.
Where were you in January when I did this alone in the cold in my driveway?
probably elbow deep in a s60.. after a few hundred in frames you can do a real descent job in 30 hrs. you learn tricks and where to spend the most attention. that Frisbee failure you had was quite common on those pre egr engines. I didn't watch every video you put out. did you replace the head? if so did you adj. the idler gear backlash?
I had the head done at a machine shop, no I didn't adjust the idler since it's much more to the side than under the cam gear so I knew if they took off .010 it would lower the head at best .002 which doesn't concern me in the least, the gasket would vary more than that. I'm quite sure I did a much better job than any dealer or Clarke Diesel would have done for me.
First Name you don't have to adjust idler gear lash when replacing a head😂🤣😂🤣
Ed Butler no but you do nèed to check the gear lash. As per the ddc repair manual.
The reason for a brake shoe rivet is it has a flat head and is made from brass
Just Askin, But wold it be a good idea to go with NEW rod and cap bolts? As opposed to using the old ones over again. Reason I ask is, with the amount of torque being applied, and the seriousness of what your holding, I think I'd go with new bolts. Like you done with your head bolts.
The rod bolts don't get much strain, all the pressure is on the rod side, anyway they were replaced in the rebuild kit, now the mains were not included in the kit and they do get all of the pressure against them but those bolts are huge. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What are the symptoms to this ? I have an issue with my truck and thinking about this job
Low oil pressure when warmed up or just good maintenance on a truck with over 1 million miles. Thanks for watching.
Gosh darn you're handy! That cotter pin trick was sweet. I don't quite understand how those collars lock on but I don't see myself rebuilding a series 60 this winter. How many times have you had to spit out a cup of dark coffee that wasn't coffee?
I haven't had a problem with bad coffee, I don't drink coffee when I'm working outside or in the shop, I don't stop to eat until I'm done for the day unless I have other reasons to stop, like getting parts or needing to leave for something. The cotter pin trick was not my idea, I saw that on UA-cam, I finished the rest of them with a 3/8" bolt in the hole in the crankshaft. I'm glad your following the series, it will be done in a few days but there's always something broke around here so there's always a video to do.
cuanta libra de torque yeba las bancada ilas bielas sime ace el fabor
Thank you Sir!
Was the crank standard it looks pretty good
How much does it cost to change crankshaft frightline 2007 Detroit srs 60
Hi there, my question is when replacing main bearings and rod bearings, when does the crankshaft need to be machined??
Hopefully never, unlike a car, the steel crank in a truck can go millions of miles and not need to be machined. You need to inspect the bearings and the journals for wear, if anything looks questionable then you need to mic all the way around the rod journals the way I did the piston rods on the video on taking out the pistons and then use a dial indicator on the main journals. Mine looked good so I didn't mic anything, besides machining the crank was not an option for me since I was laid off at the time of the rebuild. The engine has to be removed and turned upside down to take out the crank, that alone would have cost much more than the in frame rebuild.
Gordon Robertson thanks for the Info. 👍
Never oil back side of main or rod bearings! Need to stay dry and clean on back side.
surprised you didn't use an old main bearing and and utilize it by drilling the hole and make the pin to avoid tapping with the screw driver
That would work too if I cut one end off so it would have room to go on. the screw driver won't hurt anything if you don't force it, it's just those politically correct, inexperienced wannabes who always have to say something negative, that's why I jokingly said "don't tell anybody" when I used the screwdriver. Thanks for the Idea.
Gordon Robertson I gotcha I've done most all automotive but never diesel so inserting them while the crank is in place is new by me been watching all your parts of this series for when I get the semi I want which will have this engine most likely. love your videos appreciate all the info you have to give with your learning.
Hello Gordon! How did you know you didnt need the next size up bearing size for the mains and rods? Cause here in the video you are using STD... my engine has 1million and I want to do a inframe with the help of your videos but i am just curious to know if I will be ok with using just standart size
The engine has to come out and remove the timing gear case cover and the front bell housing, to change the crankshaft. I bought my truck with 619xxx miles and 6 years old, I was sure that work had never been done before I got it, that's why I bought standard sizes.
Maybe you didn't understand that you have to take out the crankshaft and have it machined down to the next size smaller to use the over size bearings. If you don't see any damage to the shaft journals, you can use it again with standard bearings. If it is damaged, you need to replace the engine or have a engine shop rebuild it, or just do it all standard anyway and hope for the best (which is what I would do)
love work
Im about to do main bearings on my Series 60 and wondering how you did the thrust bearing and washers exactly. I dont have the "special" tool either. Did you just roll it in like the others? I cant seem to find any clear info anywhere on doing the thrust bearing with the washers. Mine only uses the thrust washers on the block side and not the cap side.
I see that I did not get to record the thrust bearings, sorry about that, I'm getting better about finding ways to mount the cameras on jobs like this. I do remember having a little trouble getting the gap to be the same on both sides of the crank where the thrust bearing fits, it would be too tight on one side and I couldn't get the bearing started in and I would tap on the crank or maybe I tried to pry it the direction to loosen the gap and it would go too far and then the other side was too tight, I used a small thin flat screw driver to wedge in the tight side tapping the handle with a hammer like a chisel and maybe I started the thrust bearing into the loose side to keep me from pushing the crank too far again or maybe I tested both sides back and forth with the thrust, I did have more control moving the crank that way and when it was the same gap on both sides I assembled the 3 bearing parts and started them in the same as all the other ones and it went together good. As I remember, getting the gap the same on both sides was the only problem I had which I fixed easy using the screwdriver.
I forgot to mention I used a 3/8 bolt in the oil hole in the crank to roll the bearings in after the cotter pin was trying to go under the end of the bearings and wedge them outward. Just read all the comments and replies on all these videos and you should be ok. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I'm in the process of doing an in frame on my engine, Just did the thrust washers just rolled them in just like the rest of them but did have to pry the crank forward to get it started.
Thank you. Going to be attempting it this week hopefully and I hope it goes pretty quick and painless. My oil pan started leaking at the plug area (oil pan developed a crack) and I have to replace the pan so going to do the bearings as long as I have the pan off.
Drive your steer tires up on a couple pieces of 2x scraps and use two 20 ton bottle jacks under your "I beam" 1 on each side, screw out the ram 'til it just about touches the beam, jack them up all the way and you should be able to drop the pan without dropping the oil pump inside the pan.
What kind of torque wrench did you use? I'm getting into this and don't have any that go up that high
Mine is made by S-K tools and is 48" long 3/4" drive ratchet. You can look at Amazon.com or order one from your local auto parts store.
How many miles did you get it it before the rebuild? I’m looking at getting one myself.
1.5 m. Thanks for watching.
Mine (series 60 12.7L) had 2.7 million miles at the last OH in '15 and the crank was still ok. 52 psi oil pressure hot. It threw #6 rod through the block 2 weeks ago at 3.2 million miles. Not sure what happened. I found a good used engine to swap in.
What's the name of the book. You keep talking about
Detroit Diesel Series 60 shop manual that covers your year of motor.
I got mine on ebay
@@GordonRobertsonDIY thanks for the response I found it today. I appreciate it. Great build and great channel
Hello people. I am new to heavy duty trucks. How do you know when to change the main bearings. Thanks.
Generally it would be done in an in frame overhaul, should not need to be done before that if not experiencing low oil pressure or some other oil pressure damage like a rollover accident when the engine was not shut down immediately after turning over or started and ran for too long without oil (more than a few seconds) about a million miles for an OTR truck or maybe 400K to 600k for a city truck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gordon Robertson hey Gordon, I jsut purchased a roll over 2010 freightliner century with a DD15 engine, Im being told the same thing your saying about replacing bearings, but shouldn't I have to machine the crankshaft?? or can I use the way it is??
Can push it back in the same way
I torqued my mains down to 370lbs and rods to 125lbs is this good enough or does it needs more
I don't remember the specs, I would have to look it up in the book. I'm sure you'll be fine with those torques, they sound real close to me. Thanks for watching.
Is 325 ft to 391 so I thing u good I do mines at 375
👍💪
❤
colega una preguntita
que es?
That a Boy Gordon
esq meta precentando una falla un motor detroit cerie 60 en la tranpa del filtro de conbustible ce mira contataminacion de aceite qcera
Si es aceite en el diesel solo se ve un poco oscuro, no se ve separado, si se ve separado el contaminacion, a lo mejor es antifreeze. Antifreeze mezclando con diesel es muy mal. hay dos causas, si tienes un calentador de diesel que usa antifreeze, es uno y el otro es injector cups dentro de la cabeza del motor, este no es algo que puedes hacer en casa, debes llevar la cabeza a un taller de maquina motores.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY ok ermano si el sebe oscuro parejo icuando lo prendemo se aclara un poco
Si es aceite entrando el diesel, no se que es, no se si la bomba de diesel puede hacer eso, un poco aceite dentro el diesel no hace nada, pero diesel en el aceite no es bueno, tambien debes a mirar el antifreeze a ver si tiene diesel flotando.
@@GordonRobertsonDIY ermano noce esacto qes antifreeze
el liquido dentro radiador y motor.
Your coffee might taste a little strange for a week or two but it will be ok:)
It was the only thing I could think of that would be the right shape and size as not to waste too much excess oil. I'll need something a little bigger for the pistons, but when? we have another week of rain coming.
Time to construct a tent or ark:)
It will stop raining when I get finished and it will start again when I need to do some bobcat work.
One of my guys does a lot of side work out of his home garage and he constantly has two full bays, he went to a salvage yard that had a big class A motorhome totaled sitting there. He took the retractable awning off and mounted it on his garage, he said it was the best thing he ever did other than a lift:)
I've been daydreaming for years about a remedy for my dilemma but with IRS, interest rates, "equipment failure" lay off at the steel mill, and the list keeps growing, all I can do is one day at a time, in other words I can't pay for a roof extension. I would like to have a sheet metal carport 10' wide and 24' long and tall enough for my truck that I can redesign to be portable that I can move around with the Bobcat. I don't have room in front of my garage for a permanent roof extension, but I can park a portable one in the driveway along side my house or across the street at my other property.