It’s coming along great. … Only when you get 1-7 or 9-15 will the 8 ball light up. Then, when you hit it, the 8 ball light goes out, and the High or Low Special Rollover will light up and stay on for the remainder of the game. Also, when you hit any target or rollover, then that light goes out on the playfield and on the pool table on the backglass. That ball will then appear in the window of the backglass, meaning you’ve ‘potted’ that ball. It looks great when all the balls are visible in the backglass. … Years ago Dick Beushell (sorry about the spelling) did a review of this game in one of his books. It was called “How About a Friendly Game of 8 ball?” …well worth reading, as well as all his stuff. He was mighty and Bank A Ball is mighty too. Thanks for sharing and teaching us Ronnie.
At 5:05 you mention a label and as the camera got closer I saw it was dusty. I leaned toward the screen and caught myself about to puff air to blow off the dust. Then I LOLed. You had 100% if my attention. Though I have never owned or repaired a pinball machine, these videos really entertain me. Thanks
I played one machine in the mid-'70's that would give me quite a jolt (~24 volts) when flipping the flipper, before the machine was taken away mid-game. I never knew why that was until this video. Then you show how pushing the start game button is connected to 120 volts, and now I'm just frightened! I really like the bells on this game.
That plumb bob is adjustable. The farther you wind it up the more sensitive the tilt detector is. That one there is adjusted so low that it's almost impossible to trip it.
I think that flipper button would still be isolated. It's only 25Volts so doubtful it would be flowing around it from what I could see. Mind you, the camera angle didn't really show enough to see what it was really like :). I noticed the flippers didn't have an end of stroke switch on these. They really made the coils to last back then, so much that the didn't need end of stroke to survive. I am enjoying watching this machine come back to life. I love these old EM's
Gottlieb Engineer, 1964: "We should design it so that if something goes wrong, it electro-kills the player!" Gottlieb Design Team 1964: "Great Idea!" Times really were different, back then.
I've never seen flipper switches mounted to the playfield like that. I wonder what the first game was to have them mounted on the cabinet? And I like the little "Bzzzt" every time one of the pool balls drops. Even though it's just the coil noise, it's timed in such a way that it makes a nice added sound effect.
Ronnie - great videos and thanks for sharing some of your immense warehouse of knowledge on this subject. Perhaps I'll even finally get around and buy myself a pinball machine soon. :) Oh and appreciate you pivoting over to the Corvette reference and not those other guys. Which reminds me I actually need to buy some small parts for mine. I'll think I'll find that web site of yours now to make my way to Amazon.
Hello Ronnie, Alway amazed that the coils are almost always good from back then. Is that dust or dirt from the em machines that they just produce? If so is that why you always say you need to play those games? See you on the next video.
People have told me that it's the burnt metal that the arcing contacts burn up and create. I'm not sure if that's true or not but regardless e.m. machines create lots of black dust. Really all pinballs do the E.M.'s are just worse about it! Thank you for watching Frank!
That is the cleanest 1965 playfield I have ever seen! Must not have ever been played much. The flipper drag does ruin the appearance of a spotless playfield.
Its crazy that they used to try that marble effect. Green and blue wouldn't have been my first choice lol makes it look dirty with the green ,well that green lol
Here you go, if you go to our channel we always upload them in order, it was the video before this one. Here's the 1st one - ua-cam.com/video/Oc8ZSivZK1k/v-deo.html
New comment. :) You mentioned the trip bank plunger wasn't resetting smoothly, but you never commented on what fixed it. How did you get that plunger for the trip bank nice and smooth? I have a 4 square with EXACTLY the same issue.
Hey Ron, quick question. Several videos ago you posted a video and talked about the desolder tool you use. I don't know the video, but I need a new desolder tool. If you can post an affiliate link to it on Amazon, I'll pick one and give you a tip! Thanks.
@@LyonsArcade Ok, I took a look at your parts page again from my PC, rather than my phone. I'm not sure what's going on (and it might be an issue with Amazon's code) but all of the Amazon items are not displaying for me and there are also no hyperlinks. I only mention this because if you can find the bug and fix it, you might get more sales. The only items I was seeing were the ones NOT on Amazon. You might want to test out the page in Chrome and see if you see what I'm seeing. Amazon may have had to update their affiliate product links for security reasons, if Google has made security changes to how it works with content. Regardless, I just bought one of those desolderers, and I think I used your link! Thanks for the product tip!
JOE CLASSIC< what do you mean that the pop bumpers are LOCKING On or what is causing them to locking on stronger? Some relay switches have fishpaper and others don't have that fishpaper. If the relay doesn't have that fishpaper then the relay switch could short out to ground because the other end of the leaf blade is connected to ground through the metal nuts?
Got a vintage machine from seller I repaired the pop bumpers solenoid coils on a King rock 1972 era that was fine rapier and clean the entire unit once I set the play field back in place it closes/shorts circuit and forces the right pop bumper to activate which is what cause it to burn from previous owner ...odd thing is once I lift the play filed just enough out of seat it stops so I have to believe its a switch activating from angle or a contact short anyone have ideas its driving me nuts voltage seems correct on the relays thanks
@@fred_derf No its dirty, it's covered literally in dirt, years of thick dust, its REALLY dirty, watch it closely. A result of not cleaning that dirt is that it will spread into the switches, grease and moving parts quickly and cause more issues. Its actually one of the more dirtier ones I've seen on this channel.
@@LyonsArcade No, germs are ok, but if I played that game I'd need one :-) No hate i love your channel and love your dusty work, please take my comments with a grain of salt, but I have an opinion and I like to share it.
It’s coming along great. … Only when you get 1-7 or 9-15 will the 8 ball light up. Then, when you hit it, the 8 ball light goes out, and the High or Low Special Rollover will light up and stay on for the remainder of the game. Also, when you hit any target or rollover, then that light goes out on the playfield and on the pool table on the backglass. That ball will then appear in the window of the backglass, meaning you’ve ‘potted’ that ball. It looks great when all the balls are visible in the backglass. … Years ago Dick Beushell (sorry about the spelling) did a review of this game in one of his books. It was called “How About a Friendly Game of 8 ball?” …well worth reading, as well as all his stuff. He was mighty and Bank A Ball is mighty too. Thanks for sharing and teaching us Ronnie.
Awesome as usual. Always get a kick when you mention the knife polishers. Glad you're getting good use out of them!
Greg
Thank you Greg, they work great!
Mondial International was the export agent for Gottlieb and currently owns all of Gottlieb's IP. Their primary business is ribbon burners.
At 5:05 you mention a label and as the camera got closer I saw it was dusty. I leaned toward the screen and caught myself about to puff air to blow off the dust. Then I LOLed. You had 100% if my attention. Though I have never owned or repaired a pinball machine, these videos really entertain me. Thanks
I find these EM machines very fascinating. You can visually see how the work. My simple mind understands it! Lol
I played one machine in the mid-'70's that would give me quite a jolt (~24 volts) when flipping the flipper, before the machine was taken away mid-game. I never knew why that was until this video. Then you show how pushing the start game button is connected to 120 volts, and now I'm just frightened! I really like the bells on this game.
That plumb bob is adjustable. The farther you wind it up the more sensitive the tilt detector is. That one there is adjusted so low that it's almost impossible to trip it.
I noticed that too
I had a ball watching this :)
I had a ball filming it!
I think that flipper button would still be isolated. It's only 25Volts so doubtful it would be flowing around it from what I could see.
Mind you, the camera angle didn't really show enough to see what it was really like :).
I noticed the flippers didn't have an end of stroke switch on these. They really made the coils to last back then, so much that the didn't need end of stroke to survive.
I am enjoying watching this machine come back to life. I love these old EM's
Good Morning Ron. Wow that game is as old as I am, and is in better shape then I am too. LOL.
Hello Dano, you look young!
Gottlieb Engineer, 1964: "We should design it so that if something goes wrong, it electro-kills the player!"
Gottlieb Design Team 1964: "Great Idea!"
Times really were different, back then.
I've never seen flipper switches mounted to the playfield like that. I wonder what the first game was to have them mounted on the cabinet? And I like the little "Bzzzt" every time one of the pool balls drops. Even though it's just the coil noise, it's timed in such a way that it makes a nice added sound effect.
Ronnie - great videos and thanks for sharing some of your immense warehouse of knowledge on this subject. Perhaps I'll even finally get around and buy myself a pinball machine soon. :) Oh and appreciate you pivoting over to the Corvette reference and not those other guys. Which reminds me I actually need to buy some small parts for mine. I'll think I'll find that web site of yours now to make my way to Amazon.
Thank you Joe, we appreciate you man.
Looking better by the end of this video at least. Progress made.
It's getting there, little by little...
I've got Gottlieb Mondial games and they do have the hairpin mount for relays.
Man, you make me want to restore old games hah
Come on in , Masato :)
The woman on the playfield has very nice bassets.
Hello Ronnie, Alway amazed that the coils are almost always good from back then. Is that dust or dirt from the em machines that they just produce? If so is that why you always say you need to play those games? See you on the next video.
People have told me that it's the burnt metal that the arcing contacts burn up and create. I'm not sure if that's true or not but regardless e.m. machines create lots of black dust. Really all pinballs do the E.M.'s are just worse about it! Thank you for watching Frank!
That is the cleanest 1965 playfield I have ever seen! Must not have ever been played much. The flipper drag does ruin the appearance of a spotless playfield.
Hey Ron!
Hey Jason!
Minimum voltage that's dangerous is 50V so 25V is safe unless it's referenced to mains._
It never bit me so I guess it's alright :)
@@LyonsArcade We would have safety issues with 24v truck electrical system if it was dangerous.
Its crazy that they used to try that marble effect. Green and blue wouldn't have been my first choice lol makes it look dirty with the green ,well that green lol
Yeah they were goin ALL OUT in the mid 60's :)
@@LyonsArcade LOLI was born in 69 glad I missed it Oh Shit i lived the 70s forget it LOL
Have you tried to use a fiberglass brush to clean the contacts on the connectors (Techni-tool), i have had good results with in on connector contacts.
Yes I've used a Fiberglass brush before, we have some here
I can't find the first video anywhere :(
Here you go, if you go to our channel we always upload them in order, it was the video before this one. Here's the 1st one - ua-cam.com/video/Oc8ZSivZK1k/v-deo.html
New comment. :) You mentioned the trip bank plunger wasn't resetting smoothly, but you never commented on what fixed it. How did you get that plunger for the trip bank nice and smooth? I have a 4 square with EXACTLY the same issue.
Hey Ron, quick question. Several videos ago you posted a video and talked about the desolder tool you use. I don't know the video, but I need a new desolder tool. If you can post an affiliate link to it on Amazon, I'll pick one and give you a tip! Thanks.
We use this little Vampire Tools Solder Sucker, you can get the link on our website www.LyonsArcade.com/parts.html
Thanks! I went to your parts page linked above, but it looked different. Maybe it didn’t load properly.
@@LyonsArcade Ok, I took a look at your parts page again from my PC, rather than my phone. I'm not sure what's going on (and it might be an issue with Amazon's code) but all of the Amazon items are not displaying for me and there are also no hyperlinks. I only mention this because if you can find the bug and fix it, you might get more sales. The only items I was seeing were the ones NOT on Amazon. You might want to test out the page in Chrome and see if you see what I'm seeing. Amazon may have had to update their affiliate product links for security reasons, if Google has made security changes to how it works with content. Regardless, I just bought one of those desolderers, and I think I used your link! Thanks for the product tip!
JOE CLASSIC< what do you mean that the pop bumpers are LOCKING On or what is causing them to locking on stronger? Some relay switches have fishpaper and others don't have that fishpaper. If the relay doesn't have that fishpaper then the relay switch could short out to ground because the other end of the leaf blade is connected to ground through the metal nuts?
My vote is for "a bad idea they changed." Hey look we can save money by have this screw do double duty. Who cares if somebody has to service it?
Got a vintage machine from seller I repaired the pop bumpers solenoid coils on a King rock 1972 era that was fine rapier and clean the entire unit once I set the play field back in place it closes/shorts circuit and forces the right pop bumper to activate which is what cause it to burn from previous owner ...odd thing is once I lift the play filed just enough out of seat it stops so I have to believe its a switch activating from angle or a contact short anyone have ideas its driving me nuts voltage seems correct on the relays
thanks
If I saw that bare wire next to that fuse I would had desoldered it and put on some heat shrink tubing to cover it.
If in doubt replace
Hello
Yodelayheehoo
Hello Lil Everette!
Your's and my version of clean are VERY different, that machine is filthy dirty inside.
There is a difference between dirty (i.e. covered in dirt) and discoloured (i.e. stained). The unit isn't dirty, it's discoloured.
@@fred_derf No its dirty, it's covered literally in dirt, years of thick dust, its REALLY dirty, watch it closely. A result of not cleaning that dirt is that it will spread into the switches, grease and moving parts quickly and cause more issues.
Its actually one of the more dirtier ones I've seen on this channel.
Filthy I tell you! You'll be o.k. Brad, it's on the other side of your screen, do you have your mask on?
@@LyonsArcade No, germs are ok, but if I played that game I'd need one :-)
No hate i love your channel and love your dusty work, please take my comments with a grain of salt, but I have an opinion and I like to share it.
@@brad9529 should probably hit it with a power washer. Low pressure of course.