I can understand where the concept of "dangerous ozone" might've came from - from cheapy air cleaners that absolutely blasted the rooms with ozone. I was gifted one as a teen, and this made me incredibly sick when I turned it on. The fact that I had a small room didn't help things. I didn't even know it had an ozone (nothing about ozone was on the box) thing until I opened it up, noticed the glow and was like "hang on". Since then I was very anti-ozone myself, thinking that all ozone generators do vomit-inducing garbage like this. In fact it's your videos that made me reconsider that "perhaps it's not too bad".
There are some that are designed to put out a lot of Ozone to get rid of bad smells, we have an Ozofresh unit at work thats designed to do just that, though they're very much a turn it on and get the hell out of there unit! It does work pretty well.
You're 100% correct. Ozone is really dangerous when in high enough concentration. The problem with junky air ionizers, you never know how much ozone they are co generating. If you are using the air filter for treating allergies, ionization is basically useless anyway. The only way to remove the allergens, which tend to be larger sized particles, is too filter them out. Any half decent HEPA filter will do that perfectly. The ionizer is a waste of time as it doesn't help, and if it's especially dodgey and makes ozone in toxic concentration, could be dangerous. Note that ozone concentrations above 0.1 ppm is considered dangerous. Clive is right, it's not carcinogenic. But above 0.1 ppm, most people will experience respiratory irritation. Long term exposure at these levels will lead to lung damage. Since there is no advantages to using ionizers, why take the risk that yours might be making dangerously levels of ozone.
Sadly, there is little more effective at removing foul smells than ozone, but you should never be in the same room when running it, and should be allowed time to decompose back into safe oxygen before you go back in. The result is a space that never smelt fresher, but you shouldn't actually be breathing the ozone itself...
Always good to check whether an air cleaner uses a standard-ish or at least popular filter before buying. If you can buy a filter for it from a third party, it's a good option. Or just skip these units entirely and build a DIY Corsi-Rosenthal. Far better bang for the buck and very easy to build. One of the best things to come out of the pandemic.
I think you understand perfectly what is the problem with ozone, you have explained it yourself before: - too much of it is not just bad, it is really, really, bad, especially for people with respiratory diseases - by the time you can smell it, there is already way too much of it in the air - accurate and reliable ozone detectors are not cheap and require regular calibration The conclusion from all of that is pretty obvious. Taking it on faith that the ozone producer is not making too much of it is not worth the risk. I use an ozone generator in my fridge (mainly because of your recommendations) and I think that it really makes a difference in extending the time that the food stays fresh. But as for myself, I would rather open a window.
I have no problem using an ioniser from established companies like Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Philips. They have a brand reputation and verify all aspects of their products are safe before putting them on the market. However I would never want to use an ozon generator from a generic Chinese brand in my house.
I wonder how the leakage of ozone from the fridge containing an intentional ozone generator when the door is opened compare to incidental ozone from an air ioniser designed to charge small particles in the air? I've never seen a good answer to this - possibly there isn't one.
I love how simple this is. No garbage electronics or any E2F components. A neon lamp, ozone air regenerator and a very simple fan motor. I love simple technology. Reminds me of the old inductive fluorescent light fixtures of the old days. Inductor, glow switch and the tube itself. Those things can last decades, as I've seen in some urbex videos here. Some old buildings still have power for some reason and a good portion of the fluorescent lights still work. (albeit sometimes a little flickery.)
HEPA filters are partially based on electrostatic capture, so after washing (esp. with soap) the smallest particles probably won't be captured? I bought one for an asthmatic so in that case I definitely wouldn't recommend washing. I suppose against visible dust it still works fine.
When i was a kid my uncle had one of these hepa filter air purifiers, it was a box made out of wood/particleboard about the size of your average home theatre subwoofer and had a filter in each end with a nice big squirrel cage blower inside that had a continous speed adjustment provided by a variac. As i grew older this unit was put out of service, dismantled with the blower and variac repurposed as a shower stall vent fan, and is used as such to this very day.
Very good point on the ozone. Toxicology 101 - 'the dose makes the poison'. *A lot* of things are toxic at a high enough dose, even things that we generally consider safe for consumption in our day to day lives, like caffeine as you say. 'X is poisonous' without qualification can often be a meaningless statement because of this (certainly when talking about things with relatively high LD50s and especially ones that are beneficial at lower doses); there isn't enough information to say that's true or false. And yet people gladly throw things like that around without even knowing what they're talking about... shocking, I know. If you ever need to demonstrate this concept to someone as clearly as possible, just use Vitamin A as your example. Vitamins, those chemicals essential to our survival as we can't make them ourselves, this is understood by everyone. At normal doses, indeed, it's very good for us and necessary to our survival. And yet at sufficiently high doses, it can make you violently ill (and generally have opposite effects compared to a lower dose), and even kill you. No one would say 'Vitamin A is poisonous', even though it absolutely can be, because that is so obviously meaningless. Just like caffeine, just like ozone.
That's not always the case. There's no safe dosage of lead, for example. Any amount of lead is harmful and it accumulates in the body. You can compare a certain dose of it to other "natural" sources of lead (in food perhaps) and say a certain amount extra will be negligible. But it's still never a good thing, so comparing it to vitamin A is not really valid. We need a small amount of vitamin A to function, but the body doesn't need lead for anything. I don't know much about ozone, but the same property (strong oxidiser) that makes it neutralise odour molecules, and viruses, and kill bacteria is also going to kill cells in the lungs, which is why it's bad in higher concentrations at least.
there are warnings about vitamin a. the vitamin a we are talking about here is real vitamin a, not beta carotene. i take cod liver oil daily because it is good for me. and i'm not pregnant. i am of the opinion that us humans need all of the naturally occurring elements to be in good health. most of the elements are in seawater where our ancestor life forms lived. but we dont need elements in an unnatural state like the lead on church roofs. thats bad. and the level of elements that we need for best health is in the nano quantities like it is in seawater.
@@martenthornberg275 That is why I didn't say it was always the case. Yes, a lot of things are toxic at any dose. Just as a lot of things are only toxic past a certain point.
@@HolarMusic Of course, this was just beyond the scope of the point I was making, which was concerned with the levels of a substance in the body. There are many other ways chemicals can be hazardous beyond direct biological toxicity. Reactivity, flammability, simple asphyxiants, corrosion, etc. etc.
I recently got an air purifier, quite a bit bigger than the one you showed, and its filters supposedly have multiple layers to catch allergens and other stuff. 30 euro to replace, the manufacturer recommends vaccuuming the dust once a month, and replacing it once a year, which is not bad. It has an ioniser, which can be toggled on or off separate from the fan speed.
Another good reason to use shaded pole motors is that the full load amps and the locked rotor current are almost the same. What this means is that if the fan ever got stuck, you're unlikely to cause a fire
The true HEPA filter will almost certainly also have an electrostatic charge on it. Washing it will water, and especially soap will render the charge useless. The charge is used to help clump smaller particles together, thus increasing the percentage of very small (0.3 micron) removed from the air stream. Without the charge, these very small particles will travel through the microstructure of the filter. Your HEPA filter is now just a filter, not a HEPA filter anymore. Some microstructures can also be damaged by water ingress, which also lowers the filter efficiency. The only safe way to get extra life from a HEPA filter is to vacuum the upsteam surface of the filter to try and remove some of the gunk caught on it. It won't bring the filter back to new condition, but might get you another 30% of lifetime out of it.
Scrolling down to say the same. Rather than vacuuming, adding a washable non woven fabric filter (such as a disposable dishcloth) upstream of the HEPA greatly extends its working life. I've got 4 years from mine and it's still going strong.
The restricted airflow through the filter will cause it will be pulled against the ribs meant to "seal" similar to older forced hot air furnaces which had a slot in the cold air return for a filter.
Shaded Pole Induction Motor, as used in Record turntables, Fans, and all sorts of improbable purposes such as opening the lids of Bed Pan Washing Machines! Wonderful simple description of how they work Clive, thank you. Take your filter down to the local filling station and use the airline to blow it clean, folded side to input.
I wish he wouldn't skip over so much of the tearing-down process though. It's cathartic for me to see stuff ripped to the component parts, especially where brute force is involved. I used to work on HP printers but unfortunately they were other people's and I couldn't tear into them like I really wanted to.
Sometime, in your copius free time, it would be fun to see how much trouble and expense it would be to build a new filter. I know there are places that sell pleated paper filters in almost any configuration. I assume you can get carbon fiber or "HEPA" filters and cut them to size. I have a mini-vacuum, and found a cheap source for conical filters. I have to remove the old one from it's plastic pieces using my rework station's hot air wand, but you have a 3D printer and could make new ones. I've been thinking of trying to take an oil filter from a cheap auto parts place and cut and fold it yo make a cone. I'd think a cylindrical filter would unfold flat and be able yo be cut to your ionizer's dimensions.
We have huge rolls of hepa filter media at my lab. The large pleated filters used in nuclear facilities are just one continuous sheet of the media with aluminum separators to increase surface area.
The dangerous air cleaners likely came from things like the Sharper Image Ionic Breeze which was a fan powered by corona discharge to move air without a fan. I believe the amount of ozone these emitted was pretty dangerous and they got recalled. As for washing HEPA filters, you really shouldn't. HEPA filters are not filters as you would traditionally think of them and rely on many properties including electrostatic charge to filter particles out of the air, and it's this electrostatic charge that gets removed by washing. It's why a HEPA filter can be highly efficient yet not impede air movement too much. (Think of the N95 masks - if they relied on the standard materials to filter, you couldn't make it a mask to breathe through - it's basically a HEPA filter)
but there is a chinese factor in those hepa filters. u need at least h12 hepa filter to clean home air, but h13 is the ideal. when montly not just the aftermarket filters r fake, but the factory one is too... and most of them have carbon layer what is more negative thing than addition. just because the carbon glued onto a metal net... and soon or later will start emmit strange smels what can be solvent, plastic softener what is not so healthy... adn simple no quality control over those in the eu. so u need buy hepa from trusted source with european brad what is extremly expensive.
You don't really need h13 to clean air. As the air cycles through the filter so the less efficient ones clean the air eventually anyway. Like if the first cycle catches 90% then you have 10% left over, the second cycle catches 90% of that, then you have 1% left over. and the third cycle... 0.1 and so on. Tho considering the filters are mostly paper, you break their structure with water. Like how you wet a towel and after dying they're all crumbly and stiff. Tho that is to say they'll still filter, but way less efficiently. There are reusable filters made, I've seen for some vacuums, that are made from glass fiber or something which can withstand washing. Blowing air through them from the other side would be the least damaging way to clean em, or using a vacuum.
@@Utrilus " @Utrilus 4 órával ezelőtt (szerkesztve) You don't really need h13 to clean air. As the air cycles through the filter so the less efficient ones clean the air eventually anyway. " theoretically. but there is a huge difference in air quality h12 vs h13 filter. i use xiaomi filter what made form some kind of plastic and washable.
i think that filter was installed backwards. normally you have the higher surface area (pleats) first, w/ Carbon layer last. otherwise defeats the purpose of having pleats. plus it will seal properly with pleats out .
I would think it'd be the other way around - you want to catch the biggest particles first (with the coarse filter) and only let the finest stuff reach the pleats in the HEPA filter stage. That way you minimize clogging and prolong the filter's life.
@@flapjack9495 yeah it's honestly hard to say, but that first layer looks like basically a retainer layer for the carbon element. also the whole thing won't seal properly with the pleats in , so i think it's probably reversed (or else it's a terrible design and definitely not Hepa!) i have a couple hepa units. one with a coarse pre filter , which is also pleated, it's like a merv 6 id guess , followed by hepa, followed by a carbon filter. all separate elements. the other has no pre filter, just hepa pleats then the carbon post filter for odors, voc etc. to clean the hepa pleats you really need to be able to flow water out the way the air comes in, which also wouldn't be possible for this unit. low surface area coarse elements will still cake up with dust very quickly unless the environmental air is already extremely clean.
I have two large units as I live in California where there are fires. The carbon layer is replaceable and is a far cheaper pre filter to the hepa which is under it pleat side up. The hepa stays relatively clean if you replace the prefilter. We do that every other month and the hepa is replaced every six months.
The carbon layer acts as a coarse prefilter. You want that to be ahead of the pleated filter, which is finer. (I doubt it's actually a HEPA filter. It's probably closer to 95% efficiency.) The carbon filter also removes odors from the air. It doesn't matter if that happens before or after the pleated filter, because odors go straight through a pleated filter. The filter is installed correctly. It's not backwards.
I still remember your video when you use a paper towel or other similar paper sheet as a filter. Featuring your 3D-printed adapter for putting it on a fan.
Just love your teardowns and videos. Also the reference to “Karen’s” backed by hard evidence of what is, and is not bad was a superb. Just keep them coming Clive.
❤❤❤ This channel! Ozone CAN impact particulates AND result in binding other particulates together to form new compounds, new unknown chemistry, that do NOT fall to the ground remain airborne and are inhaled. If it's such a good thing, why do pulmonologists and respiratory therapists recommend forgoing it?
The warnings to not wash the filters are usually because there's a cloth and paper build. The paper would just fall apart. I love my Miko Ibuki air filter because it's only $25 for a replacement filter with the unit at $70(sometimes on sale) lovely little filter would be a interesting yet teardown
Any chance of a tear-down of an ikea air purifier at some point. I was skeptical of them in the past but the replacement filters are really cheap for their size.
Clive, what's the power rating of that motor? My interest is because in the middle of the past past winter I found myself doing nasty job of rebuilding 40 years old polish made kitchen absorber in my parents' apartment facing the impossible alternative to overhaul the kitchen including replacement of the top row custom made cupboards and I noticed that basicly the same construction motor, only 5-6 times bigger and much havier has resistanse of its windings about 31 Ohms with a tap at 27 Ohms (who knows how much bigger inductance) having power rating of 130W and productivity of 240 cubic meters per houer.
I have a tabletop version of that....the filter has a washable foam pre filter ( I call it the Cat Hair Filter). I took the main filter to work, and blew it out with the air hose in the shop. Virtually identical to that one electrically, just in a different case. Filters cost about 1/3 the unit's price, but with the foam prefilter, they last a while....
That filter looks a lot like a cabin air filter for a car. I don't know if they have the carbon thing though, mine isn't that fancy. Makes me wonder if there's one that would fit and if it's cheaper than buying one that is supposed to go in this unit
Really shouldn't wash paper filters with water. You know how when a piece of paper gets wet, and it's never quite the same even after drying? It ruins the fiber structure. If you want to clean and reuse a filter, I recommend a vacuum cleaner to pull air through in the reverse direction instead. You can also use compressed air from the back but that has a high risk of tearing the media.
I found out then best filter you can make is 4 standard filters for a central hvac system and a box fan on top. Effective and uses cheap mass produced filters. If you want to get fancy you can also make a frame where the filters can slide in and out by using some unistrut.
Thanks for video, nice to see a bit of simplicity in the world. ... At 10'30" & 10'38" you mention 'carbon fibre' in filter. Possibly 'activated carbon' is a more common term?
Can you test if any ions actually make it out of the blower case and into the air? I worked at an electronics place with lots of different "SIMCO-ION" branded ionising blowers, and did regular control of them, using a 3M air ioniser discharge tester. It charged a steel plate to + or - 1.5 kV, and you blew on it with the ioniser and checked that it discharged within a few seconds. However we got some machines that blew the ionised air through Loc-Line nozzles, pneumatic tubes and plastic fittings, or steel pipe, and this completely "killed" the discharging effect, it couldn't pass the test. So based on that I suspect that the plastic housing might neutralize a lot of the ions before they make it out in the air in the room. Or I might mistake the purpose of the thing? We used them at work to blow on plastic parts during assembly of products, so they didn't attract debris, when peeling the wrapping or protective film of parts, and to protect PCBs from ESD damage when mounting them in the plastic housings. Maybe it would be better if the ionising pins were placed at the mouth of the air output port?
I have some thing that puts out toxic levels of ozone... runs at 80 watts of input to the HV PSU. Its very useful, for whacking molds bugs and so on. It will run you out of the house in a few minutes. There you go Kare-rins.
Thanks for the reminder about the blue neon. I thought I already had some that I ordered off eBay, but I must have looked at ordering them but never got around to it, so I just ordered some. We'll see how long it takes to arrive, since it was one of those "local" listings that had suspiciously identical listing title, pictures, and description to those located in China.
The pleated portion of the filter looks just like a car's cabin air filter. Probably exactly the same, just give it a bit of flex and glue on the extra layers.
Rather than use expensive air filters, like those used in the Dyson room fan, it might be better to design products that use electrostatic precipitation to trap dust and other particles. Electrostatic filters can be washed, as they can be made of metal mesh, or sponge. An additional advantage is that they can be designed to generate ozone, or at least negative ions, that kill viruses and bacteria. The ion cloud produced does not need to escape into the air, if the filter arrangement ends with a grounded filter. Some metals, such as copper and silver, have antibacterial properties. These filters made, or coated, in these metals should remove harmful pathogens from the air. Even the ozone generated internally could be removed from the cleaned output air, by the use of a metal catalyst.deposited on a filter media, such as glass wool. Being at the clean end of the purification system, this filter should not need washing. For the manufacturer, the disadvantage of such a system is that the expensive replacement filters are no longer required.
Shaded pole motors are everywhere, mostly used in small fans and they often take on a different shape, more like a rectangle when I see them but yeah. There's one in my Water Pik flosser for the pump.
I expect HEPA filter good enough filtering without help from ioniser, I can see some benefits apart from perceived value-adding, when the HEPA loses its electret static charge the ions can charge up the upstream flow-facing side maybe. Re-charge washed HEPA filter, that's a good reuse for the old box CRT color tv: , place filter against screen when you first switched one on there was 25 kV.
Ozone in high enough doses is pousonous. But you have more issues from huffing CO². You have to actively go breathe it purely to have instant detriment. But most doses and cases it's not a detriment. Also Ionisation should always be broached with caution because it's indiscriminate.
HEPA filters are not "just a very fine filter." In order to remove submicron particles, HEPA filters have micron diameter polymer fibers that attract these particles electrostatically. Washing a HEPA filter with tap water will coat these fibers with a layer of minerals that inhibit this electrostatic attraction. It will still work fine for larger particles, but nm sized particles (including virus) will go straight through. Using soap, ultrasonics, and de-ionized water rinse will extend the life somewhat, but it is impossible to remove all of the submicron material to make it work like new.
As a fellow Scot can you do a spiel on Iqos? My local Premier is giving them away for free, Its a neat little unit. But you might have other observations. The fact they are usually about 40 squirrels and use tobacco as a medium. The packaging is premiumish. The LEDs make a sort of sense. It comes with a USB C charger and cable, which considering they sell a cheap USB charger for 7 squirrels, heh its free. They claim to save you £50 a week over normal cancer sticks which wouldn't be hard to do. Will it set your head on fire?
You don't need a fancy filter to clean the air. buy a 20 inch box fan with a flat back (lasko is commonly the cheapest in america) but what you want is a 20x20x? filter and then tape it to the back of the box fan. a lot of you probably have all the materials to make one.
You said that you can wash the filter but are you sure that all that nasty ozone stuff will be washed away. I'm very worried about that blue light. Are you sure it's not ultravioilent?
you can also use an air compressor with a blow nozzle directed against the back of the filter. Do outside, you're going to get a cloud of dust. Also works for the air filters in cars, saves buying new ones.
Shaded pole motors are the crappiest with their low efficiency and low torque, especially paired to a centrifugal-style blower like that, which requires far more torque than an axial fan. The fan design is pretty interesting though
is it pretty common for the ion module to go bad i have a filter (different brand) and i am not smelling or hearing the buzz that i used to when i first got it
Put an ioniser in a gadget and Clive will jump on the opportunity to disassemble it! Also: Rant away Clive!! In the words of Prof Hubert J. Farnsworth: "I don't want to live on this planet anymore!" 💪
Air quality in most houses can be vastly improved upon by simply opening a window. I've even left windows open for prolonged periods of time to increase the benefits of said philosophical concept. If you have any reason to doubt my claims, please feel free to try what I've said. It even works with car windows
HEPA filters use electrostatic coatings to accomplish the filtering of the small particles. If you wash them you lose that capability, much like washing the fireproofing off your nomex coveralls. I believe fabric softener washes the fire resistant chemical off of nomex so perhaps soap and water or just water could be used to backflush the HEPA.
Most HEPA filters are purely mechanical, not electret. Electret filter media is common for MERV13 and N95 filters. And it's not a coating. It's a charge trapped directly in the meltblown polypropylene media. The charge doesn't really wash away in water, but will be removed by organic solvents. Still, none of these filters are meant to be washed. Washing might extend the filter's life a bit, but might also degrade its performance.
Real HEPA filters (at least the ones used in nuclear facilities) don't use any kind of coating. The electrostatic attraction is kind of baked into the fibers.
I know it is an Electronics channel and taking it apart, but how much Caffeine can a person have per hour is they are say 5'9" 147 LBS how fast does Caffeine process in a human body under perfect conditions? and How does that relate to Ozone? I do a lot of Electronics. I want to make a little fan like this with a Hepa Filter and an Ozone generating device inside it in the air channel. I can 3D print something like this. I also know it is defeating the putpose of the entire thing, but I would like to place a canister in it that will discharge a scent into the air, similar to what a Atomizer would do.
the dose of caffeine that is DEADLY is subjective, for me most days start with 400-600 mg, yesterday i consumed just shy of 1000 total which is enough to be deadly for some people, 180 5'8" it is recommended to consume as little as needed to get the desired effect, For healthy adults, the FDA has cited 400 milligrams a day-that's about four or five cups of coffee-as an amount not generally associated with dangerous, negative effects. However, there is wide variation in both how sensitive people are to the effects of caffeine and how fast they metabolize it (break it down). The FDA estimates toxic effects, like seizures, can be observed with rapid consumption of around 1,200 milligrams of caffeine
The slip of induction motors is almost consant. Their speed depends on frequency, not on voltage. Im not sure whats the RPM difference between high and low settings but its probably less than 10%.
You mentioned before common paper household paper products can act as HEPA filters. Just stick a paper towel in there? I've taken to using paper towels on the back of large fans as a cheap air filter.
My Mother's name was Karen, so I'll probably always find the pejorative use of her name somewhat off-putting. That being said, the comparison to caffeine is an apt one. Another apt comparison would be to saccharin, which can increase risk of cancer in extremely high doses but is perfectly safe if you put several packs of Sweet n Low in your morning coffee. With the wildfires in Canada causing bad air quality across my country this summer, I'd like to note that one reason we're advised to stay indoors when the air is bad, even if we don't have air conditioning, is because ozone is naturally generated in very low levels on painted walls through a catalytic action, which oxidizes the pollutants. This is why soot tends to accumulate on walls in polluted areas.
2:35 is the fan running backwards? I'd expect the fins to throw air out rather than scoop like they are. maybe its one of those fans that can start in either direction?
Isn't that filter installed the wrong way around? Shouldn't the pleated media be catching the larger particulates while the carbon media filters out the microscopic particles that gets through the cloth/paper media?
Clive I disagree 'The Ozone' was very dangerous. I got attacked by the cider monster a number of times😂. Sadly lost in the Christchurch quakes along with other great pubs. 😢
I can understand where the concept of "dangerous ozone" might've came from - from cheapy air cleaners that absolutely blasted the rooms with ozone. I was gifted one as a teen, and this made me incredibly sick when I turned it on. The fact that I had a small room didn't help things. I didn't even know it had an ozone (nothing about ozone was on the box) thing until I opened it up, noticed the glow and was like "hang on". Since then I was very anti-ozone myself, thinking that all ozone generators do vomit-inducing garbage like this. In fact it's your videos that made me reconsider that "perhaps it's not too bad".
A lot of the blame definitely lies with salesmen calling their ozone generators "ionisers" too.
There are some that are designed to put out a lot of Ozone to get rid of bad smells, we have an Ozofresh unit at work thats designed to do just that, though they're very much a turn it on and get the hell out of there unit! It does work pretty well.
You're 100% correct. Ozone is really dangerous when in high enough concentration. The problem with junky air ionizers, you never know how much ozone they are co generating.
If you are using the air filter for treating allergies, ionization is basically useless anyway. The only way to remove the allergens, which tend to be larger sized particles, is too filter them out. Any half decent HEPA filter will do that perfectly. The ionizer is a waste of time as it doesn't help, and if it's especially dodgey and makes ozone in toxic concentration, could be dangerous.
Note that ozone concentrations above 0.1 ppm is considered dangerous. Clive is right, it's not carcinogenic. But above 0.1 ppm, most people will experience respiratory irritation. Long term exposure at these levels will lead to lung damage.
Since there is no advantages to using ionizers, why take the risk that yours might be making dangerously levels of ozone.
Sadly, there is little more effective at removing foul smells than ozone, but you should never be in the same room when running it, and should be allowed time to decompose back into safe oxygen before you go back in. The result is a space that never smelt fresher, but you shouldn't actually be breathing the ozone itself...
Big Clive is always figthing the good fight for Ozone generators
He is in the pay of big ozone
BTW that's scarcasam
Fran said they were qwq
Always good to check whether an air cleaner uses a standard-ish or at least popular filter before buying. If you can buy a filter for it from a third party, it's a good option.
Or just skip these units entirely and build a DIY Corsi-Rosenthal. Far better bang for the buck and very easy to build. One of the best things to come out of the pandemic.
And box fan manufactures are now selling fans with furnace filter holders already built in.
I think you understand perfectly what is the problem with ozone, you have explained it yourself before:
- too much of it is not just bad, it is really, really, bad, especially for people with respiratory diseases
- by the time you can smell it, there is already way too much of it in the air
- accurate and reliable ozone detectors are not cheap and require regular calibration
The conclusion from all of that is pretty obvious. Taking it on faith that the ozone producer is not making too much of it is not worth the risk. I use an ozone generator in my fridge (mainly because of your recommendations) and I think that it really makes a difference in extending the time that the food stays fresh. But as for myself, I would rather open a window.
I have no problem using an ioniser from established companies like Mitsubishi, Panasonic, Philips. They have a brand reputation and verify all aspects of their products are safe before putting them on the market. However I would never want to use an ozon generator from a generic Chinese brand in my house.
I wonder how the leakage of ozone from the fridge containing an intentional ozone generator when the door is opened compare to incidental ozone from an air ioniser designed to charge small particles in the air? I've never seen a good answer to this - possibly there isn't one.
I love how simple this is. No garbage electronics or any E2F components. A neon lamp, ozone air regenerator and a very simple fan motor. I love simple technology. Reminds me of the old inductive fluorescent light fixtures of the old days. Inductor, glow switch and the tube itself. Those things can last decades, as I've seen in some urbex videos here. Some old buildings still have power for some reason and a good portion of the fluorescent lights still work. (albeit sometimes a little flickery.)
HEPA filters are partially based on electrostatic capture, so after washing (esp. with soap) the smallest particles probably won't be captured?
I bought one for an asthmatic so in that case I definitely wouldn't recommend washing. I suppose against visible dust it still works fine.
A lot of HEPA filters are made of paper, too, which likely wouldn't survive washing in water.
You are single handed keeping my flame burning for a field I unfortunately had to leave. Much love ❤
It's also interesting to note that the paddle shaped blower is optimized for air volume, not for air pressure.
Kind of defeated by the tiny slit shaped air outlet compared to the large inlet area.
Optimized in terms of the fan shape? Thats about what a typical centrifugal blower looks like no? Its far better than an axial PC style fan would be.
As far as I know centrifugal fans produce relatively high pressure.
When i was a kid my uncle had one of these hepa filter air purifiers, it was a box made out of wood/particleboard about the size of your average home theatre subwoofer and had a filter in each end with a nice big squirrel cage blower inside that had a continous speed adjustment provided by a variac.
As i grew older this unit was put out of service, dismantled with the blower and variac repurposed as a shower stall vent fan, and is used as such to this very day.
Something that Clive says is nicely put together is pure gold. You can take that to the bank
Very good point on the ozone. Toxicology 101 - 'the dose makes the poison'. *A lot* of things are toxic at a high enough dose, even things that we generally consider safe for consumption in our day to day lives, like caffeine as you say.
'X is poisonous' without qualification can often be a meaningless statement because of this (certainly when talking about things with relatively high LD50s and especially ones that are beneficial at lower doses); there isn't enough information to say that's true or false. And yet people gladly throw things like that around without even knowing what they're talking about... shocking, I know.
If you ever need to demonstrate this concept to someone as clearly as possible, just use Vitamin A as your example. Vitamins, those chemicals essential to our survival as we can't make them ourselves, this is understood by everyone. At normal doses, indeed, it's very good for us and necessary to our survival. And yet at sufficiently high doses, it can make you violently ill (and generally have opposite effects compared to a lower dose), and even kill you. No one would say 'Vitamin A is poisonous', even though it absolutely can be, because that is so obviously meaningless. Just like caffeine, just like ozone.
it's not just the ozone itself though
it's a very reactive gas and can create all sorts of toxic compounds in the air
That's not always the case. There's no safe dosage of lead, for example. Any amount of lead is harmful and it accumulates in the body. You can compare a certain dose of it to other "natural" sources of lead (in food perhaps) and say a certain amount extra will be negligible. But it's still never a good thing, so comparing it to vitamin A is not really valid. We need a small amount of vitamin A to function, but the body doesn't need lead for anything.
I don't know much about ozone, but the same property (strong oxidiser) that makes it neutralise odour molecules, and viruses, and kill bacteria is also going to kill cells in the lungs, which is why it's bad in higher concentrations at least.
there are warnings about vitamin a. the vitamin a we are talking about here is real vitamin a, not beta carotene. i take cod liver oil daily because it is good for me. and i'm not pregnant. i am of the opinion that us humans need all of the naturally occurring elements to be in good health. most of the elements are in seawater where our ancestor life forms lived. but we dont need elements in an unnatural state like the lead on church roofs. thats bad. and the level of elements that we need for best health is in the nano quantities like it is in seawater.
@@martenthornberg275 That is why I didn't say it was always the case. Yes, a lot of things are toxic at any dose. Just as a lot of things are only toxic past a certain point.
@@HolarMusic Of course, this was just beyond the scope of the point I was making, which was concerned with the levels of a substance in the body. There are many other ways chemicals can be hazardous beyond direct biological toxicity. Reactivity, flammability, simple asphyxiants, corrosion, etc. etc.
Great Explanation. It's no wonder that Clive always sounds excited and never sleeps (USA brown bag special, not person).
I recently got an air purifier, quite a bit bigger than the one you showed, and its filters supposedly have multiple layers to catch allergens and other stuff. 30 euro to replace, the manufacturer recommends vaccuuming the dust once a month, and replacing it once a year, which is not bad. It has an ioniser, which can be toggled on or off separate from the fan speed.
Another good reason to use shaded pole motors is that the full load amps and the locked rotor current are almost the same. What this means is that if the fan ever got stuck, you're unlikely to cause a fire
The true HEPA filter will almost certainly also have an electrostatic charge on it. Washing it will water, and especially soap will render the charge useless. The charge is used to help clump smaller particles together, thus increasing the percentage of very small (0.3 micron) removed from the air stream. Without the charge, these very small particles will travel through the microstructure of the filter. Your HEPA filter is now just a filter, not a HEPA filter anymore.
Some microstructures can also be damaged by water ingress, which also lowers the filter efficiency.
The only safe way to get extra life from a HEPA filter is to vacuum the upsteam surface of the filter to try and remove some of the gunk caught on it. It won't bring the filter back to new condition, but might get you another 30% of lifetime out of it.
Scrolling down to say the same.
Rather than vacuuming, adding a washable non woven fabric filter (such as a disposable dishcloth) upstream of the HEPA greatly extends its working life. I've got 4 years from mine and it's still going strong.
Excellent idea to add a washable cloth filter upstream of the the HEPA. This will definitely help extend the life of the HEPA
The restricted airflow through the filter will cause it will be pulled against the ribs meant to "seal" similar to older forced hot air furnaces which had a slot in the cold air return for a filter.
Shaded Pole Induction Motor, as used in Record turntables, Fans, and all sorts of improbable purposes such as opening the lids of Bed Pan Washing Machines! Wonderful simple description of how they work Clive, thank you. Take your filter down to the local filling station and use the airline to blow it clean, folded side to input.
I love it when you say "Take it to bits".
I wish he wouldn't skip over so much of the tearing-down process though. It's cathartic for me to see stuff ripped to the component parts, especially where brute force is involved. I used to work on HP printers but unfortunately they were other people's and I couldn't tear into them like I really wanted to.
Sometime, in your copius free time, it would be fun to see how much trouble and expense it would be to build a new filter. I know there are places that sell pleated paper filters in almost any configuration. I assume you can get carbon fiber or "HEPA" filters and cut them to size.
I have a mini-vacuum, and found a cheap source for conical filters. I have to remove the old one from it's plastic pieces using my rework station's hot air wand, but you have a 3D printer and could make new ones. I've been thinking of trying to take an oil filter from a cheap auto parts place and cut and fold it yo make a cone. I'd think a cylindrical filter would unfold flat and be able yo be cut to your ionizer's dimensions.
It's quite complex to seal the ends of the corrugated filters.
@@bigclivedotcombut that's why we crave your input on this.😊
We have huge rolls of hepa filter media at my lab. The large pleated filters used in nuclear facilities are just one continuous sheet of the media with aluminum separators to increase surface area.
I love fans air conditioner heater air purifier etc video you're The Best Clive
The dangerous air cleaners likely came from things like the Sharper Image Ionic Breeze which was a fan powered by corona discharge to move air without a fan. I believe the amount of ozone these emitted was pretty dangerous and they got recalled. As for washing HEPA filters, you really shouldn't. HEPA filters are not filters as you would traditionally think of them and rely on many properties including electrostatic charge to filter particles out of the air, and it's this electrostatic charge that gets removed by washing. It's why a HEPA filter can be highly efficient yet not impede air movement too much. (Think of the N95 masks - if they relied on the standard materials to filter, you couldn't make it a mask to breathe through - it's basically a HEPA filter)
but there is a chinese factor in those hepa filters. u need at least h12 hepa filter to clean home air, but h13 is the ideal. when montly not just the aftermarket filters r fake, but the factory one is too... and most of them have carbon layer what is more negative thing than addition. just because the carbon glued onto a metal net... and soon or later will start emmit strange smels what can be solvent, plastic softener what is not so healthy... adn simple no quality control over those in the eu.
so u need buy hepa from trusted source with european brad what is extremly expensive.
You don't really need h13 to clean air. As the air cycles through the filter so the less efficient ones clean the air eventually anyway. Like if the first cycle catches 90% then you have 10% left over, the second cycle catches 90% of that, then you have 1% left over. and the third cycle... 0.1 and so on.
Tho considering the filters are mostly paper, you break their structure with water. Like how you wet a towel and after dying they're all crumbly and stiff. Tho that is to say they'll still filter, but way less efficiently. There are reusable filters made, I've seen for some vacuums, that are made from glass fiber or something which can withstand washing.
Blowing air through them from the other side would be the least damaging way to clean em, or using a vacuum.
@@Utrilus "
@Utrilus
4 órával ezelőtt (szerkesztve)
You don't really need h13 to clean air. As the air cycles through the filter so the less efficient ones clean the air eventually anyway. " theoretically. but there is a huge difference in air quality h12 vs h13 filter. i use xiaomi filter what made form some kind of plastic and washable.
i think that filter was installed backwards. normally you have the higher surface area (pleats) first, w/ Carbon layer last. otherwise defeats the purpose of having pleats. plus it will seal properly with pleats out .
Makes sense.
I would think it'd be the other way around - you want to catch the biggest particles first (with the coarse filter) and only let the finest stuff reach the pleats in the HEPA filter stage. That way you minimize clogging and prolong the filter's life.
@@flapjack9495 yeah it's honestly hard to say, but that first layer looks like basically a retainer layer for the carbon element. also the whole thing won't seal properly with the pleats in , so i think it's probably reversed (or else it's a terrible design and definitely not Hepa!)
i have a couple hepa units. one with a coarse pre filter , which is also pleated, it's like a merv 6 id guess , followed by hepa, followed by a carbon filter. all separate elements. the other has no pre filter, just hepa pleats then the carbon post filter for odors, voc etc. to clean the hepa pleats you really need to be able to flow water out the way the air comes in, which also wouldn't be possible for this unit. low surface area coarse elements will still cake up with dust very quickly unless the environmental air is already extremely clean.
I have two large units as I live in California where there are fires. The carbon layer is replaceable and is a far cheaper pre filter to the hepa which is under it pleat side up. The hepa stays relatively clean if you replace the prefilter. We do that every other month and the hepa is replaced every six months.
The carbon layer acts as a coarse prefilter. You want that to be ahead of the pleated filter, which is finer. (I doubt it's actually a HEPA filter. It's probably closer to 95% efficiency.) The carbon filter also removes odors from the air. It doesn't matter if that happens before or after the pleated filter, because odors go straight through a pleated filter. The filter is installed correctly. It's not backwards.
"it's so big" so seductively said
I still remember your video when you use a paper towel or other similar paper sheet as a filter. Featuring your 3D-printed adapter for putting it on a fan.
Just love your teardowns and videos. Also the reference to “Karen’s” backed by hard evidence of what is, and is not bad was a superb. Just keep them coming Clive.
Those folks, whose mental processes operate without reference to fact, are what is defective...
I'm going to make one, thanks for all the very helpful info Clive.
❤❤❤ This channel! Ozone CAN impact particulates AND result in binding other particulates together to form new compounds, new unknown chemistry, that do NOT fall to the ground remain airborne and are inhaled. If it's such a good thing, why do pulmonologists and respiratory therapists recommend forgoing it?
The warnings to not wash the filters are usually because there's a cloth and paper build. The paper would just fall apart.
I love my Miko Ibuki air filter because it's only $25 for a replacement filter with the unit at $70(sometimes on sale) lovely little filter would be a interesting yet teardown
Where can you get this air purifier cuz I want to tear one apart also
I just bought myself an anti-tamper-bit set that has five different styles. It takes care of most cases but I can also get other bit sets.
Any chance of a tear-down of an ikea air purifier at some point. I was skeptical of them in the past but the replacement filters are really cheap for their size.
I shop for the filters before I buy the air purifier. It's just like the printer ink racket. The consumables can be more then the device.
Clive, what's the power rating of that motor? My interest is because in the middle of the past past winter I found myself doing nasty job of rebuilding 40 years old polish made kitchen absorber in my parents' apartment facing the impossible alternative to overhaul the kitchen including replacement of the top row custom made cupboards and I noticed that basicly the same construction motor, only 5-6 times bigger and much havier has resistanse of its windings about 31 Ohms with a tap at 27 Ohms (who knows how much bigger inductance) having power rating of 130W and productivity of 240 cubic meters per houer.
How much was the power draw? I feel like that motor could have a long life span looking at the build of it.
Labelled power rating is 25W.
I have a tabletop version of that....the filter has a washable foam pre filter ( I call it the Cat Hair Filter). I took the main filter to work, and blew it out with the air hose in the shop.
Virtually identical to that one electrically, just in a different case. Filters cost about 1/3 the unit's price, but with the foam prefilter, they last a while....
With both positive and negative output I'd consider modifying it to have an electrostatic plate package to catch the finest particles.
That filter looks a lot like a cabin air filter for a car. I don't know if they have the carbon thing though, mine isn't that fancy. Makes me wonder if there's one that would fit and if it's cheaper than buying one that is supposed to go in this unit
Really shouldn't wash paper filters with water. You know how when a piece of paper gets wet, and it's never quite the same even after drying? It ruins the fiber structure. If you want to clean and reuse a filter, I recommend a vacuum cleaner to pull air through in the reverse direction instead. You can also use compressed air from the back but that has a high risk of tearing the media.
That media is plastic, not paper. Still, it's not meant to be washed.
I found out then best filter you can make is 4 standard filters for a central hvac system and a box fan on top. Effective and uses cheap mass produced filters. If you want to get fancy you can also make a frame where the filters can slide in and out by using some unistrut.
Thanks for video, nice to see a bit of simplicity in the world.
... At 10'30" & 10'38" you mention 'carbon fibre' in filter. Possibly 'activated carbon' is a more common term?
I keep doing that. It is indeed activated carbon.
Can you test if any ions actually make it out of the blower case and into the air? I worked at an electronics place with lots of different "SIMCO-ION" branded ionising blowers, and did regular control of them, using a 3M air ioniser discharge tester. It charged a steel plate to + or - 1.5 kV, and you blew on it with the ioniser and checked that it discharged within a few seconds. However we got some machines that blew the ionised air through Loc-Line nozzles, pneumatic tubes and plastic fittings, or steel pipe, and this completely "killed" the discharging effect, it couldn't pass the test. So based on that I suspect that the plastic housing might neutralize a lot of the ions before they make it out in the air in the room. Or I might mistake the purpose of the thing? We used them at work to blow on plastic parts during assembly of products, so they didn't attract debris, when peeling the wrapping or protective film of parts, and to protect PCBs from ESD damage when mounting them in the plastic housings.
Maybe it would be better if the ionising pins were placed at the mouth of the air output port?
I have some thing that puts out toxic levels of ozone... runs at 80 watts of input to the HV PSU. Its very useful, for whacking molds bugs and so on. It will run you out of the house in a few minutes. There you go Kare-rins.
Thanks for the reminder about the blue neon. I thought I already had some that I ordered off eBay, but I must have looked at ordering them but never got around to it, so I just ordered some. We'll see how long it takes to arrive, since it was one of those "local" listings that had suspiciously identical listing title, pictures, and description to those located in China.
And now there's some components for a few projects on he table. But what will Clive make? 🤔👍
Something pink, noisy and dangerous I hope.
Replacement filters - the gift that keeps on giving! (to occupants of the boardroom) 8^)
I'm sure cut down cooker hood filters (carbon and grease types) would work as a reasonable filter if stacked.
The pleated portion of the filter looks just like a car's cabin air filter. Probably exactly the same, just give it a bit of flex and glue on the extra layers.
Rather than use expensive air filters, like those used in the Dyson room fan, it might be better to design products that use electrostatic precipitation to trap dust and other particles.
Electrostatic filters can be washed, as they can be made of metal mesh, or sponge. An additional advantage is that they can be designed to generate ozone, or at least negative ions, that kill viruses and bacteria. The ion cloud produced does not need to escape into the air, if the filter arrangement ends with a grounded filter. Some metals, such as copper and silver, have antibacterial properties. These filters made, or coated, in these metals should remove harmful pathogens from the air. Even the ozone generated internally could be removed from the cleaned output air, by the use of a metal catalyst.deposited on a filter media, such as glass wool. Being at the clean end of the purification system, this filter should not need washing.
For the manufacturer, the disadvantage of such a system is that the expensive replacement filters are no longer required.
Shaded pole motors are everywhere, mostly used in small fans and they often take on a different shape, more like a rectangle when I see them but yeah. There's one in my Water Pik flosser for the pump.
Would be real nice to have a scary good microscope to look down on the ecosystem and crud stuck in that filter right?
Great little unit, with the built in surprise I wasn’t expecting the ozone generator either…. Good stuff! Thanks Clive 😊
I expect HEPA filter good enough filtering without help from ioniser, I can see some benefits apart from perceived value-adding, when the HEPA loses its electret static charge the ions can charge up the upstream flow-facing side maybe.
Re-charge washed HEPA filter, that's a good reuse for the old box CRT color tv: , place filter against screen when you first switched one on there was 25 kV.
Ozone in high enough doses is pousonous. But you have more issues from huffing CO². You have to actively go breathe it purely to have instant detriment. But most doses and cases it's not a detriment. Also Ionisation should always be broached with caution because it's indiscriminate.
@2:57 Reverse engineering is complete. Refreshing 👊
"Oh! It's so big!" -- Big Clive, 2023
Bigclive, I wonder what you think of evaporative air coolers
Ideal for very dry climates, but not humid ones.
I am idly curious as to whether the replaceable HEPA filter is a repurposed cabin air filter from an automotive HVAC system.
It does look like an automotive filter.
0:32 "Nobody expects the Spanish Switch Position!"
HEPA filters are not "just a very fine filter." In order to remove submicron particles, HEPA filters have micron diameter polymer fibers that attract these particles electrostatically. Washing a HEPA filter with tap water will coat these fibers with a layer of minerals that inhibit this electrostatic attraction. It will still work fine for larger particles, but nm sized particles (including virus) will go straight through. Using soap, ultrasonics, and de-ionized water rinse will extend the life somewhat, but it is impossible to remove all of the submicron material to make it work like new.
As a fellow Scot can you do a spiel on Iqos? My local Premier is giving them away for free, Its a neat little unit. But you might have other observations. The fact they are usually about 40 squirrels and use tobacco as a medium. The packaging is premiumish. The LEDs make a sort of sense. It comes with a USB C charger and cable, which considering they sell a cheap USB charger for 7 squirrels, heh its free. They claim to save you £50 a week over normal cancer sticks which wouldn't be hard to do. Will it set your head on fire?
I'm curious why you have a bulk bag of caffeine. I probably don't want to know the answer.
It was to show what can be bought from eBay.
Let's take it to bits .
"Skanky, covid-y type stuff" made me wheeze 😅
You don't need a fancy filter to clean the air. buy a 20 inch box fan with a flat back (lasko is commonly the cheapest in america) but what you want is a 20x20x? filter and then tape it to the back of the box fan. a lot of you probably have all the materials to make one.
if you don't believe me search Lasko FF305 and you will see they make a more expensive version of this same idea.
That works very well in a pinch, but a box fan is a noisy and inefficient way to move air through a filter.
Maybe the capacitor doubles as a power factor corrector for the motor.
I remember when Dimplex made good quality stuff.
I swear I heard an arc at the beginning of the video when you switched it from high to low.
You said that you can wash the filter but are you sure that all that nasty ozone stuff will be washed away. I'm very worried about that blue light. Are you sure it's not ultravioilent?
Brilliant use of the caffeine. That would work for 5G and putting your head in a microwave oven 😂
Does anyone else wonder if Clive has developed a bit of an Ozone "habit" after years of sniffing high voltage equipment?
He seems to have developed a good sense of smell for O3 though it doesn't take much, 0.1 parts per million.
Capacitor is there only for PFC, likely to get it to appear close to real power, on cheap power meters that only measure apparent power.
Clive, when are you going to do "One moment pleAse.." on a shirt?
you can also use an air compressor with a blow nozzle directed against the back of the filter. Do outside, you're going to get a cloud of dust. Also works for the air filters in cars, saves buying new ones.
Shaded pole motors are the crappiest with their low efficiency and low torque, especially paired to a centrifugal-style blower like that, which requires far more torque than an axial fan. The fan design is pretty interesting though
Clive, let's not forget to give the "Kevins" their due as well... not just the "Karens"! LOL
is it pretty common for the ion module to go bad i have a filter (different brand) and i am not smelling or hearing the buzz that i used to when i first got it
They do seem less reliable than traditional Ionisers.
Looks like a automotive cabin air filter.
Put an ioniser in a gadget and Clive will jump on the opportunity to disassemble it!
Also: Rant away Clive!!
In the words of Prof Hubert J. Farnsworth: "I don't want to live on this planet anymore!" 💪
Washing and drying doesn't widen the pores in the filter or damage it somehow? If not, washing it is a good idea.
Washing destroys most HEPA filters. It discharges the electrostatic charge that actually does all the work.
Air quality in most houses can be vastly improved upon by simply opening a window. I've even left windows open for prolonged periods of time to increase the benefits of said philosophical concept. If you have any reason to doubt my claims, please feel free to try what I've said. It even works with car windows
HEPA filters use electrostatic coatings to accomplish the filtering of the small particles. If you wash them you lose that capability, much like washing the fireproofing off your nomex coveralls. I believe fabric softener washes the fire resistant chemical off of nomex so perhaps soap and water or just water could be used to backflush the HEPA.
Fabric conditioner deposits a waxy substance on the fireproof overalls, defeating the flame resistance.
Most HEPA filters are purely mechanical, not electret. Electret filter media is common for MERV13 and N95 filters. And it's not a coating. It's a charge trapped directly in the meltblown polypropylene media. The charge doesn't really wash away in water, but will be removed by organic solvents. Still, none of these filters are meant to be washed. Washing might extend the filter's life a bit, but might also degrade its performance.
Real HEPA filters (at least the ones used in nuclear facilities) don't use any kind of coating. The electrostatic attraction is kind of baked into the fibers.
I know it is an Electronics channel and taking it apart, but how much Caffeine can a person have per hour is they are say 5'9" 147 LBS how fast does Caffeine process in a human body under perfect conditions? and How does that relate to Ozone? I do a lot of Electronics. I want to make a little fan like this with a Hepa Filter and an Ozone generating device inside it in the air channel. I can 3D print something like this. I also know it is defeating the putpose of the entire thing, but I would like to place a canister in it that will discharge a scent into the air, similar to what a Atomizer would do.
the dose of caffeine that is DEADLY is subjective, for me most days start with 400-600 mg, yesterday i consumed just shy of 1000 total which is enough to be deadly for some people, 180 5'8" it is recommended to consume as little as needed to get the desired effect, For healthy adults, the FDA has cited 400 milligrams a day-that's about four or five cups of coffee-as an amount not generally associated with dangerous, negative effects. However, there is wide variation in both how sensitive people are to the effects of caffeine and how fast they metabolize it (break it down). The FDA estimates toxic effects, like seizures, can be observed with rapid consumption of around 1,200 milligrams of caffeine
You should do a vid about iZone, it's like Ozone but much more expensive and trendy. 😉
The slip of induction motors is almost consant. Their speed depends on frequency, not on voltage. Im not sure whats the RPM difference between high and low settings but its probably less than 10%.
That air filter looks like an automotive cabin filter
No death beam capacitor ? The tingle on your dingle is inversely propitiously to the columns inside the death beam capacitors
BTW- that filter is pretty much the same size as a standard Toyota cabin air filter.
Bipolar ionizer?
Sounds a lot like me.
You mentioned before common paper household paper products can act as HEPA filters. Just stick a paper towel in there? I've taken to using paper towels on the back of large fans as a cheap air filter.
My Mother's name was Karen, so I'll probably always find the pejorative use of her name somewhat off-putting. That being said, the comparison to caffeine is an apt one. Another apt comparison would be to saccharin, which can increase risk of cancer in extremely high doses but is perfectly safe if you put several packs of Sweet n Low in your morning coffee.
With the wildfires in Canada causing bad air quality across my country this summer, I'd like to note that one reason we're advised to stay indoors when the air is bad, even if we don't have air conditioning, is because ozone is naturally generated in very low levels on painted walls through a catalytic action, which oxidizes the pollutants. This is why soot tends to accumulate on walls in polluted areas.
Christ, 100 grams of caffeine. That's enough to kill a whole bunch of people.
And still only a fraction of what is in a can of Red Bull 😉
2:35 is the fan running backwards? I'd expect the fins to throw air out rather than scoop like they are. maybe its one of those fans that can start in either direction?
It's a centrifugal fan intended to throw the air outwards. It spins clockwise facing the blades.
hes doing the same thing i used to do when i was like 7 i liked to open electronics and take the dc motors out.
Isn't that filter installed the wrong way around? Shouldn't the pleated media be catching the larger particulates while the carbon media filters out the microscopic particles that gets through the cloth/paper media?
i love a mini rant.
ps - breathing leads to death in 100% of participants (eventually)
I havent been sub to you but i just realized i wasn't and noticed your almost at 1mil
Fresh air like the smell of a thunderstorm ⛈️😂
Clive I disagree 'The Ozone' was very dangerous. I got attacked by the cider monster a number of times😂. Sadly lost in the Christchurch quakes along with other great pubs. 😢
6:57 _"I don't know where that misinformation came from."_ What do you think? UA-cam, of course...
100g caffeine, would kill you 🤣
... Maybe I need to get some