Great video again Dan I've got lots of mainline stuff, I've sorted my class 4 out with wobbly wheels, another is in the spares box so next project is a Jubilee loco with problems to get sorted, thanks for sharing this video, John
Hi. Thanks for the demonstration. I have three Bachmann Jubilee's that will all need converting to dcc. Its a bit of a job but I will do all three at the same time , it makes sense for me to do it this way. Thankyou again for you advice. Cheers.
Having converted many old locos to DCC I would advise that after fitting a decoder the installation is tested on a programming track first to ensure that the decoder does not get fried, track power making contact with a motor connection is likely to destroy a decoder. Also the battery test will only work if the decoder is set to run in DC mode too. Soldering wires to the brush retainers can be made easier if you apply a non-corrosive liquid flux first and then tin the brush retainer, followed by more flux when attaching the wire. The use of the 2mm plastic screws looks like a good idea and I too use the wire looped around a screw to access track power for the decoder, certainly better than attaching leads to the chassis halves any other way.
Hi Dan, I’ve just found your video regarding converting the Mainline Railways split chassis Locos (Palitoy design) to run with a DCC chip. I have four locos that require modifications and your UA-cam Video is the only one I have come across that deals with all the issues of the split chassis design of forty years ago! I wanted to try to preserve these models because I considered them to be, at that time, far better quality and better detailed than Hornby had ever managed in the late ‘70’s early 80’s. I have two 4-6-0 Class 4 Black (Cat # 37-052), one Class 4 Green (Ca t#37-053) and an 0-6-0 Collet Black (Cat#37-059) to be modified. I’ve already dismantled one of the Black 4-6-0’s to try to figure out if it was worthwhile knowing the issue of insulation, of one side from the other, had to be perfect otherwise ‘boom goodbye Chip’. I’d kind of put this to once side with the idea of going back to the issue some time in the future. Your video has shown me the way and has galvanized me to move forward following your example of what needs to be done, step by step. I appreciate you taking the time to "show me the way" and to give me confidence that this could be done! Regards Bob
nice job you explain things very well and show every stage of the repair/rebuild which is good those old mainline locos are very nice well detailed for there age i used to have a couple but now do continental n gauge but still interested in oo gauge and like trash to track thanks for sharing eagerly awaiting the next video.
Hello Dan Another great Trash to Track vlog. The loco looks to be a very good runner, well done on the conversion. I must admit I do not have any split chassis motors but if I ever get any in the future then I know where to look for help. Hope you have a great Jubilee Bank Holiday Weekend. God Save The Queen. Stay safe, keep sharing and model on. Regards Lee@NEAR GSTQ
Well done - with these models in my experience it’s 50/50 whether or not something breaks that writes a major component off and needs to be replaced (eg. The wheel sets and their valve gear). I like how you explain what you’re doing constantly. I have a few mainline models of the split chassis type and I really like them but they do have one major design flaw that stands out - along with the tendency of the axles to split - amongst the others: That is it’d be great if well-used examples with worn axle slots could be revived via bushing the axles. This would also help smooth slow running I would have thought. Perhaps a subject for a future video? You should have given an actual shout out to OOBill for the contact cleaner tip - I’m sure he’d appreciate your directing traffic to him as a result - and his repair videos are also excellent as you’ll know. I also REALLY like your layout(s) and the shots at the end of the finished article running on it.
Super job. Reminds me of a great summer Sunday afternoon in 1978 watching my then Boss’s garden railway. He had a few Mainline Jubilees and similar. Enjoy the celebrations!
You've done a great job however where locos pick up through chassis contact with axles it's best to just use oil rather than grease. This could be why it seemed to improve with running in.
Agreed - I use electro lube for the axles on these models as silicone grease would impair electrical pickup. I wonder if some kind of electrically conductive grease would be better though.
@@dansmodelrailways7886 Thanks a lot Dan, will take a look. When I converted my Mainline split chassis, I resorted to cutting the spring retainer to form 2 parts either side and screwed each one in seperately. Thus creating 4 contact points for DCC fitting. I much prefer the plastic screw method though.
Great video again Dan I've got lots of mainline stuff, I've sorted my class 4 out with wobbly wheels, another is in the spares box so next project is a Jubilee loco with problems to get sorted, thanks for sharing this video, John
Hi. Thanks for the demonstration. I have three Bachmann Jubilee's that will all need converting to dcc. Its a bit of a job but I will do all three at the same time , it makes sense for me to do it this way. Thankyou again for you advice. Cheers.
Having converted many old locos to DCC I would advise that after fitting a decoder the installation is tested on a programming track first to ensure that the decoder does not get fried, track power making contact with a motor connection is likely to destroy a decoder. Also the battery test will only work if the decoder is set to run in DC mode too. Soldering wires to the brush retainers can be made easier if you apply a non-corrosive liquid flux first and then tin the brush retainer, followed by more flux when attaching the wire. The use of the 2mm plastic screws looks like a good idea and I too use the wire looped around a screw to access track power for the decoder, certainly better than attaching leads to the chassis halves any other way.
Hi Dan,
I’ve just found your video regarding converting the Mainline Railways split chassis Locos (Palitoy design) to run with a DCC chip. I have four locos that require modifications and your UA-cam Video is the only one I have come across that deals with all the issues of the split chassis design of forty years ago!
I wanted to try to preserve these models because I considered them to be, at that time, far better quality and better detailed than Hornby had ever managed in the late ‘70’s early 80’s.
I have two 4-6-0 Class 4 Black (Cat # 37-052), one Class 4 Green (Ca t#37-053) and an 0-6-0 Collet Black (Cat#37-059) to be modified.
I’ve already dismantled one of the Black 4-6-0’s to try to figure out if it was worthwhile knowing the issue of insulation, of one side from the other, had to be perfect otherwise ‘boom goodbye Chip’.
I’d kind of put this to once side with the idea of going back to the issue some time in the future. Your video has shown me the way and has galvanized me to move forward following your example of what needs to be done, step by step.
I appreciate you taking the time to "show me the way" and to give me confidence that this could be done!
Regards
Bob
I do like these mainline models
Super video. I got new axles for my manor class from Peters spares. Not a bad job to fit. Thanks for showing. Regards Paul.
nice job you explain things very well and show every stage of the repair/rebuild which is good those old mainline locos are very nice well detailed for there age i used to have a couple but now do continental n gauge but still interested in oo gauge and like trash to track thanks for sharing eagerly awaiting the next video.
Fantastic video. I have a few of these locos and wandered how to DDC them. Thank you for showing me how to do it. Another project in the pipeline. 👍
Hello Dan
Another great Trash to Track vlog. The loco looks to be a very good runner, well done on the conversion.
I must admit I do not have any split chassis motors but if I ever get any in the future then I know where to look for help.
Hope you have a great Jubilee Bank Holiday Weekend. God Save The Queen.
Stay safe, keep sharing and model on.
Regards
Lee@NEAR
GSTQ
Great video Dan!👍
Nice one Dan. GSTQ
Well done - with these models in my experience it’s 50/50 whether or not something breaks that writes a major component off and needs to be replaced (eg. The wheel sets and their valve gear). I like how you explain what you’re doing constantly. I have a few mainline models of the split chassis type and I really like them but they do have one major design flaw that stands out - along with the tendency of the axles to split - amongst the others: That is it’d be great if well-used examples with worn axle slots could be revived via bushing the axles. This would also help smooth slow running I would have thought. Perhaps a subject for a future video?
You should have given an actual shout out to OOBill for the contact cleaner tip - I’m sure he’d appreciate your directing traffic to him as a result - and his repair videos are also excellent as you’ll know.
I also REALLY like your layout(s) and the shots at the end of the finished article running on it.
Super job. Reminds me of a great summer Sunday afternoon in 1978 watching my then Boss’s garden railway. He had a few Mainline Jubilees and similar. Enjoy the celebrations!
You've done a great job however where locos pick up through chassis contact with axles it's best to just use oil rather than grease. This could be why it seemed to improve with running in.
Agreed - I use electro lube for the axles on these models as silicone grease would impair electrical pickup. I wonder if some kind of electrically conductive grease would be better though.
@@dj_efk I'm not so sure, the oil has always worked well so I think it's best to stick with that. Conductivity has never been an issue really
Where do you get the m2 plastic screws from? Thanks. Great video btw!
I got mine from ebay. I had to tap the holes on the chassis with an M2 Tap to make them fit
@@dansmodelrailways7886 Thanks a lot Dan, will take a look. When I converted my Mainline split chassis, I resorted to cutting the spring retainer to form 2 parts either side and screwed each one in seperately. Thus creating 4 contact points for DCC fitting. I much prefer the plastic screw method though.
What length of M"2 Screws do you use.
Could do without that tune !!!!!!¡!