During the first atomic bomb tests, specifically the Trinity Test in 1945, two critical parts machined to close tolerances did not fit initially due to thermal expansion. The parts expanded differently causing misalignment. The issue was resolved by allowing them to reach a similar temperature before reassembling them.
I assume you checked this, but for everyone else: if you change a screw please make sure you put in one of at least the same strength (usually the 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 lettering on the bolt head). Especially on a specail occasion such as here inside an electric motor with a lot of torque. And , as we saw, maybe the head type is important for more than one reason (in this example tightening. I probably wouldn't have thought of that, too, I only thought of the head size. Still, I love how you dare to do this.
He could have used same bolt as long as he would have threaded retaining plate in same time as pulling bearing in its place! Basic wrench also could have been used for tightening! But at the same time if both ends of shaft is locked from both sides of housing I think it's fine.... probably!
You shouldn't play fast and loose with your health and wear gloves. Absorbing all the dangerous chemicals with bare hands is bad news bears. I lost my dad due to this. Please wear gloves 100% of the time
Interesting how chemical exposure is linked to the cause of death. May I ask what chemicals and the organization that diagnosed him or did the autopsy? I’m writing a legal research paper and would like to report my findings!
Yet another great video, Jeremy!! I love the demonstration of gear ratios for people, your method makes it more understandable. There are some interesting variances available for the conversions of the rotation. The reassembly seemed a touch more difficult without that flat gear with the access holes. As long as the bolt grades are comparable, it should be no issue. I like that you had access to somebody who could make you a proper wrench for that. Now you just need to have a bench to bolt your vise to, and you will be able to do work more comfortably in it.
many Model S need to have the Coolant Delete Mod, because Coolant water leaks past seals into the inverter and other areas. So maybe that is rust from coolant leaking internally.
great video i like the way you explain eveything and show us how you figure thus stuff out. thx again for all your help and information. as always we will see what the future brings. bill c
Have to send that hearing info to the boostedboys. They have some Tesla projects that might help in their drag racing. Probably lose some bottom end but that instant torque is ridiculous. Does that manufacturer have other ratios maybe not such a steep difference?
I think I would have used a regular hex head threaded bolt on gear assembly. A little shaving of the hex head with a bench grinder would be necessary. The gasket maker of my choice is a Permatex "Black Stuff" named product.
haha I swear you have my notebook lol I been trying to figure this out.. I want the LDU in my suburban and run it at the Tx mile a 200mph 87 electric awd suburban that sounds glorious .. Mom would have been so mad that I will do this to her truck
Sorry to hear you've done this already. Those gear sets from Fellten are going to be very noisy. I know someone who tried them in a Land Rover, they're awful. They produce a high pitch whine that will make your ears bleed and gear chatter on zero load that sounds like you're rattling a bucket full of nuts and bolts. They're junk. A waste of time and money unfortunately. If you ask Chris from Fellten directly he'll admit this.
That would have made the rear diff a 1:1 ratio... which is definitely not an off-the-shelf configuration for a jeep, and probably not even possible (the diff would probably grenade with a ratio like that). Also, he wants to retain 4WD, which means he would also have to do it twice (front and rear)
The driveshaft might also need to be much stronger in order to change the gear reduction by such a high factor... the torque on the driveshaft multiplies by that same factor, for the same HP.
@daves2433 the gear reduction here is a little over half. So say if 0-60mph was 3 seconds, it would now be over 6 seconds. Technically if top speed was 120mph then you would think it would make it over 240mph now but there's aerodynamics(big factor) and possibly other things that will limit it to much less than that.
I’m no expert, but since you would be loosing a lot of torque, I would imagine it would use more battery since you’re straining the motor more. It would also probably struggle to get going when in a direct drive set up
anodisation/galvanic corrosion ? due to leakage of water and voltage (common failure of the water seal of the rotor ) and difference of material betyween aluminium, steel and copper
4:1 isn't the final gear ratio though once you take the differential (3.7:1) into account so at the wheels it ends up being a 14.8:1 ratio instead of the tesla's 9:1so it ends up being a net increase of torque
this was not was to be negative i just wanted to point out that electric cars power is what the motor puts out multiplied by the gear reduction and with internal combustion engine is just what engine puts out at the fly wheel.
Ok dude, love the video BUT... You need to stop looking at yourself in the camera and look at the camera. Its like talking to someone and they stare at your ear! Geeeeze! Anyway, Ive wondered about changing those bearings out with ceramic bearings. Man, those bearings went, PLoP! Very nice! You would go faster but doesnt it take longer to get there with the different ratio? The torque was halfed...?
@lsh3rd if you understood the power curve of electric motors is different than the power curve of gasoline motors then you would know that it does work that way
@lsh3rd internal combustion engines consume more fuel when their RPM goes up, electric motors consume more energy when load is increased on the motor. The speed of the motor has zero influence on the energy consumption from the battery pack. When the electric motor has to work harder it pulls more amps from the batteries. Everything I've said can be looked up on Google or any basic electronics books
It's good to be curious about these things! I highly encourage you to keep being curious and look up information on how electrical systems work! There is of course a bunch of content on this subject right here on UA-cam. Some are quite enterraining like ElectroBoom or more serious like Electrician U.
😁We have patented an entirely new, low cost, hear-silent, ultra-efficient, *_infinitely variable_* , ultra-torque dense [small & light], high durability gear technology, called FrictionLess Gear, which is a reformulation of gearing theory sans any toothed wheels. The gear range can easily be >700:1 [ultra high gear rage possible] with a price half that of the lowest priced competitor. Enables smaller batteries and/or longer range in EV's [Exploding Vehicles ;-0 ] . Legacy and novel applications abound. Retrofits of ALL existing bikes, even electrics, will be available. 😉A novel, low cost, near-silent, electric motor tech may be paired w the FrictionLess gear set.
We are living in the future of hot rodding... Pretty cool what you did there. I wonder what the mph on a regular model S would be with that new gearset...
Never drop that parts together when using a thermal fit. There is a high possibility of the bearing "bouncing" off the shoulder and locking together in a way that may not be seated as much as necessary. Frost on the shoulder from freezing can do the same thing. Wipe the shoulders clean and slide the parts together while applying firm pressure. Count to 5 and your done.
Great analysis, thank you! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
should mention the trade-offs: The primary trade-offs for using a gear reduction to double the speed of a Tesla motor include a reduction in torque, potential efficiency losses, increased mechanical complexity, added space and weight, and possible noise and vibration issues. Understanding these trade-offs is crucial when designing or modifying a vehicle's drivetrain to ensure optimal performance and reliability.
Just to be the boring pedantic guy: no, you won't make your tesla faster with this mod. Electric motors are power limited after certain RPM, meaning that after initial ramp up (where the motor outputs constant torque), the power starts to dictate the torque, so if you change gears, you will get motor to spin twice as quickly, but with half the torque, meaning that the output torque will not change. ICE engines don't have constant power output, they don't even have constant torque, but for simplification we can assume that ICE engines have more or less constant torque and linear power. These motors need transmissions with multiple gear combinations. Electric motors just need one gear. Many people who convert their manual cars into electric find that regardless of the gear, their car accelerates just as quickly, so they stick it into third and never touch the lever. So since you won't be taking your tesla past 80 MPH very often, there is no need to change those gears. Here this mod is necessary, since the additional differential now forces the motor to reach its top RPM much sooner.
The simple explanation of gear ratios make this a whole lot easier all in about 2 seconds. Thank you!!
Dude, the bearing thing with heat was so cool.
During the first atomic bomb tests, specifically the Trinity Test in 1945, two critical parts machined to close tolerances did not fit initially due to thermal expansion. The parts expanded differently causing misalignment. The issue was resolved by allowing them to reach a similar temperature before reassembling them.
Very cool, subzero!
I assume you checked this, but for everyone else: if you change a screw please make sure you put in one of at least the same strength (usually the 4.6, 8.8, 10.9, 12.9 lettering on the bolt head).
Especially on a specail occasion such as here inside an electric motor with a lot of torque.
And , as we saw, maybe the head type is important for more than one reason (in this example tightening. I probably wouldn't have thought of that, too, I only thought of the head size.
Still, I love how you dare to do this.
He could have used same bolt as long as he would have threaded retaining plate in same time as pulling bearing in its place! Basic wrench also could have been used for tightening! But at the same time if both ends of shaft is locked from both sides of housing I think it's fine.... probably!
“Make the noise!”, I can hear Richard Brunning saying at 19:15.
The bearings so simple but also so cool to watch
I use my thermal camera to find the dog poop when it's dark out.
LOL!
You shouldn't play fast and loose with your health and wear gloves. Absorbing all the dangerous chemicals with bare hands is bad news bears. I lost my dad due to this. Please wear gloves 100% of the time
Sorry for your loss ! What chemicals?
Interesting how chemical exposure is linked to the cause of death. May I ask what chemicals and the organization that diagnosed him or did the autopsy? I’m writing a legal research paper and would like to report my findings!
@@Holt0216 the chemical was H2o
@@xpreflex6265 based
Same here. Cancer.
Always appreciate the information and thought you put in these projects.
Thanks for watching!
Great tip with the gearing, cheers 👍💪✌
Thank you! 👍
Yet another great video, Jeremy!! I love the demonstration of gear ratios for people, your method makes it more understandable. There are some interesting variances available for the conversions of the rotation. The reassembly seemed a touch more difficult without that flat gear with the access holes. As long as the bolt grades are comparable, it should be no issue. I like that you had access to somebody who could make you a proper wrench for that. Now you just need to have a bench to bolt your vise to, and you will be able to do work more comfortably in it.
Agreed
Great video! really enjoyed it! keep up the great work!
Thanks!
many Model S need to have the Coolant Delete Mod, because Coolant water leaks past seals into the inverter and other areas. So maybe that is rust from coolant leaking internally.
He has the coolant delete on this one by the looks of it.
That was an issue with the early models. That issue was fixed a while ago.
@@That-Guy_ Based on what the company that sells the coolant mod delete... "a while ago" was like 2023 if I remember correctly.
@LeeWinkler
I did a check and it's 2012 to 2020 Model S and X with the drive motor coolant issue.
@That-Guy_ yeah that sounds right. I knew it was more than early builds, but wasn't sure how late
Laughed when you shared your allen wrench solution.. I save those too for the exact same reason. Those can come in clutch when space is limited
🙌
That transmission has my gears spinning 🙂
LOL! I see what you did there.
great video
i like the way you explain eveything and show us how you figure thus stuff out.
thx again for all your help and information.
as always we will see what the future brings.
bill c
Thank you, Bill!
It would be interesting to see what a gear change like this in a model 3 performance would do for its performance numbers.
Coming soon!
@@electricsupercar Awesome news! I know I will be in line for the swap if the numbers are good 🍻
21:09 Channeling Chainsaw Man.. just add more drills! Sweet bild!
Have to send that hearing info to the boostedboys. They have some Tesla projects that might help in their drag racing. Probably lose some bottom end but that instant torque is ridiculous. Does that manufacturer have other ratios maybe not such a steep difference?
Please bolt your vise down! Should have bolted the bearing into the case then put the shaft into the bearing! 👋
Great video
My work uses a turkey roaster and a bearing freezer that goes down to -60f b 13:40 but sometimes we use liquid nitrogen.
Nice
Great informative episode thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Be great to see you do this to a BMW i3s.
I never thought I’d be watching a video of someone hot rodding an EV 😂
I think I would have used a regular hex head threaded bolt on gear assembly. A little shaving of the hex head with a bench grinder would be necessary.
The gasket maker of my choice is a Permatex "Black Stuff" named product.
haha I swear you have my notebook lol I been trying to figure this out.. I want the LDU in my suburban and run it at the Tx mile a 200mph 87 electric awd suburban that sounds glorious .. Mom would have been so mad that I will do this to her truck
I really want to make a rock crawler with a similar Tesla drive set up. good to know the gear ratio!!
What is the new torque produced with the new gear ratio?
Sorry to hear you've done this already. Those gear sets from Fellten are going to be very noisy. I know someone who tried them in a Land Rover, they're awful. They produce a high pitch whine that will make your ears bleed and gear chatter on zero load that sounds like you're rattling a bucket full of nuts and bolts. They're junk. A waste of time and money unfortunately. If you ask Chris from Fellten directly he'll admit this.
Nice, learn a lot from your videos!
Qq; Did you test that modified nozzle before installing?
Yes I did
Please do updates on the car and how it’s running, great video.
Coming soon!
17:14 I save them, if they survive the process of assembly. Some are just junk.
Wouldn't it have been easier to change the final gear ratio in the diff?
That would have made the rear diff a 1:1 ratio... which is definitely not an off-the-shelf configuration for a jeep, and probably not even possible (the diff would probably grenade with a ratio like that). Also, he wants to retain 4WD, which means he would also have to do it twice (front and rear)
The driveshaft might also need to be much stronger in order to change the gear reduction by such a high factor... the torque on the driveshaft multiplies by that same factor, for the same HP.
Why does Tesla put Loctite on their bearings? Is it because of the the high RPM? It must be so wild if it can unseat a press fit bearing.
20:52 Did you put the seal back in?
alternatively, if you kept the open differential, you could have just locked one side of the output and the remaining side would spin twice as fast
by changing the gear, does it make the motor work harder?
I actually want to see a Model S run with this setup. see how much quicker it gets
It reduces acceleration and increases top speed.
Yes, but by how much. I'm also wondering about efficiency in that setup.
@daves2433 the gear reduction here is a little over half. So say if 0-60mph was 3 seconds, it would now be over 6 seconds. Technically if top speed was 120mph then you would think it would make it over 240mph now but there's aerodynamics(big factor) and possibly other things that will limit it to much less than that.
Sweet !
Oh yeah!
Seems like it would have been easier to eliminate the differential since you're making new axles anyway
That red stuff on the gear looks like New Mexico dirt dust.
If it's metric you can check to see if a JIS head bolt would work.
good call!
Does this mod have any obvious drawbacks on the lifespan of the motor? It seems that it will take more torque to reach the same speeds
red stuff maybe an anti-seize?
Didn't look like rust, been around enough metal boats.
Seeing it also used in the bearing surface confirms it’s a compound design to fill in the tolerances between parts. Like their version of locktite 689
ok, so now teslas can be MOTOR mode for more speed?
what if you put that back in a tesla?
Can you find a stud behind drywall with that thermal imager? I had a camera that was about the same specs but it was almost laughable..
Yes, it is pretty easy if it is a wall to a different temperature (like outside)
12:40 no apron, Susie homemaker?? 😂
Should have put on "Kiss the cook"
dam question. So if this swap was on a tesla car the battery could lasted more ???
I’m no expert, but since you would be loosing a lot of torque, I would imagine it would use more battery since you’re straining the motor more. It would also probably struggle to get going when in a direct drive set up
@matt6740 oh, yeah, that's true. Thanks for the reply 😎👍
Is there going to be any issues with the electric motor running warmer since its spinning twice as fast?
What that red stuff is? Can't be rust!
Maybe anti-seize?
Why not attach it to a 6 speed transmission so you can pick between having more torque or more top speed
The transmission would hate the torque
doesn't changing the gear ratio decrease the torque? You can get faster speed but now it'll take longer to get there. How much pep do you lose?
This is done because the Jeep has additional gearing in the differential.
Speed comes at a cost, like half battery capacity.
what'll happen 0-60?
Your videos are always thought-provoking and inspiring. Thank you for your creativity and passion!🪞🪟♀️🐕
The 'rust' on the one gear almost looks like Cuprous Oxide (copper oxide), but I have no idea why that would be in there.
anodisation/galvanic corrosion ? due to leakage of water and voltage (common failure of the water seal of the rotor ) and difference of material betyween aluminium, steel and copper
Maybe copper anti-sieze
going from 9.6:1 to 4:1 will also reduce power by 58.3% roughly.
4:1 isn't the final gear ratio though once you take the differential (3.7:1) into account so at the wheels it ends up being a 14.8:1 ratio instead of the tesla's 9:1so it ends up being a net increase of torque
this was not was to be negative i just wanted to point out that electric cars power is what the motor puts out multiplied by the gear reduction and with internal combustion engine is just what engine puts out at the fly wheel.
9.6x3.7=35.52:1 more power, slower top speed
4x3.7=14.8:1 decrease in power, increase in top speed
It will reduce torque output but not power
Copper, antiseize or antinfret, not rust.
You shouldn't heat the bearing hotter than 110°C
Algo
✌️
In a vacuum maybe, but I'd be happy to be proven wrong.
This is similar to what they did with the electric land speed car. SuperfastMatt did a video on it
Ok dude, love the video BUT... You need to stop looking at yourself in the camera and look at the camera. Its like talking to someone and they stare at your ear! Geeeeze!
Anyway, Ive wondered about changing those bearings out with ceramic bearings. Man, those bearings went, PLoP! Very nice!
You would go faster but doesnt it take longer to get there with the different ratio? The torque was halfed...?
or buy a taycan that already has a 2speed transmission
JEEP? I have a Jeep. Making it go faster is a deathwish. Put it back in a Tesla.
My ebike uses 1/5 a HP and goes 1200 miles for $3
My dogs say hi :-*
Awesome 😎😎😎
Best reverse engineering 😇😇😇
Best wishes 🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Thanks a lot 😊
I would say it looks like dried up copper paste 6:43
Its kinda dark, idk. But it looks too homogenous for just rust.
I know what you mean
yeh that makes more sense than being rust, I bet they used copper paste to fill any gaps between the gears to have more uniform connection.
I wanted to say a kind of dried up anti-seize
It’s anti seize
I was wondering if it was that. The coloring was too homogeneous for rust
Or you could leave the Tesla gearbox alone and have an increased range
No, it doesn’t work that way…
@lsh3rd if you understood the power curve of electric motors is different than the power curve of gasoline motors then you would know that it does work that way
@lsh3rd internal combustion engines consume more fuel when their RPM goes up, electric motors consume more energy when load is increased on the motor. The speed of the motor has zero influence on the energy consumption from the battery pack. When the electric motor has to work harder it pulls more amps from the batteries. Everything I've said can be looked up on Google or any basic electronics books
Does it hold a charge when left alone?
The motor? No
It's good to be curious about these things! I highly encourage you to keep being curious and look up information on how electrical systems work! There is of course a bunch of content on this subject right here on UA-cam. Some are quite enterraining like ElectroBoom or more serious like Electrician U.
I'm also pretty sure you'll find some informative content on this very here channel 😉
😁We have patented an entirely new, low cost, hear-silent, ultra-efficient, *_infinitely variable_* , ultra-torque dense [small & light], high durability gear technology, called FrictionLess Gear, which is a reformulation of gearing theory sans any toothed wheels. The gear range can easily be >700:1 [ultra high gear rage possible] with a price half that of the lowest priced competitor. Enables smaller batteries and/or longer range in EV's [Exploding Vehicles ;-0 ] . Legacy and novel applications abound. Retrofits of ALL existing bikes, even electrics, will be available. 😉A novel, low cost, near-silent, electric motor tech may be paired w the FrictionLess gear set.
Thank you for your hard work and dedication. Your videos are always a joy to watch.👑🍆🏙
We are living in the future of hot rodding... Pretty cool what you did there. I wonder what the mph on a regular model S would be with that new gearset...
Never drop that parts together when using a thermal fit. There is a high possibility of the bearing "bouncing" off the shoulder and locking together in a way that may not be seated as much as necessary.
Frost on the shoulder from freezing can do the same thing.
Wipe the shoulders clean and slide the parts together while applying firm pressure. Count to 5 and your done.
Thanks for the tip
Great analysis, thank you! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (mistake turkey blossom warfare blade until bachelor fall squeeze today flee guitar). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
should mention the trade-offs: The primary trade-offs for using a gear reduction to double the speed of a Tesla motor include a reduction in torque, potential efficiency losses, increased mechanical complexity, added space and weight, and possible noise and vibration issues. Understanding these trade-offs is crucial when designing or modifying a vehicle's drivetrain to ensure optimal performance and reliability.
You're right, there are always trade-offs when messing with the drivetrain.
👋👍
✌️
Just to be the boring pedantic guy: no, you won't make your tesla faster with this mod. Electric motors are power limited after certain RPM, meaning that after initial ramp up (where the motor outputs constant torque), the power starts to dictate the torque, so if you change gears, you will get motor to spin twice as quickly, but with half the torque, meaning that the output torque will not change.
ICE engines don't have constant power output, they don't even have constant torque, but for simplification we can assume that ICE engines have more or less constant torque and linear power. These motors need transmissions with multiple gear combinations. Electric motors just need one gear.
Many people who convert their manual cars into electric find that regardless of the gear, their car accelerates just as quickly, so they stick it into third and never touch the lever.
So since you won't be taking your tesla past 80 MPH very often, there is no need to change those gears.
Here this mod is necessary, since the additional differential now forces the motor to reach its top RPM much sooner.
Nothing more dull than EVs
aye man don’t be hating 😂
Then why are you here?
1st☝️
Woo Hoo! Congratz!!!
So when is harbor freight, or husky going to sponsor you to get a workbench for your vise?
Does this mod have any obvious drawbacks on the lifespan of the motor? It seems that it will take more torque to reach the same speeds