I do HD marine diesels since 1960. Racing engines for almost as long. I cut open the filters every time. I also test the oil once a year. That filter was plugged. The spring valve is for filters like this. The flow can never cut off. It's better to run unfiltered oil than no oil at all, or a flow that's too low. Bearings are wearing uneven. My guess the rod, crank alignment to the cylinder is off. I found many engines that are mass produced have faults. Like the cylinder not square with the rod & crank, cam and crank not parallel, etc. Factory tolerances are wide based on their warranty costs. I think car companies only concern is having the engine run thru the warranty period without failing. A good engine machine shop will catch and fix all the errors, but it costs.
Hello Kenny, I hope you received my package. I sent it to your work. I sent you a tq wrench, bore scope and some other things. It was the only address that I could find so that is where I sent it. Thanks always.
I do HVAC and I have came across heating oil filters that were not charged in god knows how long they are so bad I had to pry it out with a screwdriver but some how the oil still got to the burner nozzle and still worked but that doesn't mean don't change it just because it still works you are damaging your oil pump and burner some people just don't get it
Hey, Kenny, I loved your gentlemanly slap down of the "expert". I've lived long enough to know what I don't know and a lot of what I do know is from mistakes (just don't involve my wife because she has a long list of my "learning experiences"). As someone with two degrees who now happily works in the trades i can tell you that I have zero respect for the "holier than thou" grubsmorglers who think an ability to read and quote a technical manual qualifies them to function in the real world. It comes down to trust, Kenny. I'd rather take your "I don't know" over some arrogant smarfwingler's techno babble. And I sure as heck know who I'd prefer as a neighbour. Keep on busting knuckles and just be the natural teacher you are. Cheers from Canada. p.s. In case you're wondering, with my old guy lack of tolerance for the grossenkuntz of this world, I make up words for people I don't like that sound nasty but will not show up on UA-cam's filters. Try it - I'll bet you've wanted to call an idiot customer a "sminkfest" or a "yorbflub" a few times.
Take a magnet to the sludge to see if there is metal in it. Also, I believe the spring is meant to keep a tight internal seal so oil doesn't go around the filter.
From what I can figure that spring is possibly part of a Bypass Valve. It's there for Very cold conditions to let the oil flow past the filter when it's too thick to get through the filter fast enough. Basically it's there to prevent oil starvation in the engine when it's wintery weather on an engine cold start.
In the old days all car manufacturers had a overload valve in the filter base, in modern times some don't have this and use the filter itself as pressure relief The spring does a double or triple duty as you can fit different height elements and it takes up the slack (really cheap ones look normal on the outside but are a lot shorter on the inside) and also covers material expansion with heat and plastic element and as a last resort bypass, have to be very bad for that to happen).
An oil sample to a lab will tell you a lot more than a cut open filter. Send a sample off at minimum annually. You’ll know before you see anything in the filter. For daily drivers more than race cars.
Correct explanation of by pass value spring on bottom. Media filter gets clogged, spring goes into action to by pass clog to continue oil flow. Fellow UA-camr Whip City from Chicago just explained this last week in a video
The spring is there to keep the element pressed firmly to the housing, in the middle the by pass valve is that thing going into the filter core. Spring just is a convenient place to put it, stamped out of a single piece of mild steel, with the spring function being very weak, just enough to handle the expansion of the case from Antartic temperatures to engine operating temperature.
How many engines died due to lack of maintenance? I don’t care what the manufacturer recommends.Change your oil every 3000 miles. Also the person who said to check the sludge with a magnet. Genius,the bearing coating is nonferrous.
@@jimamizzi1 You will always have some ferrous sludge, but only with a cast iron block. Aluminium head, aluminium block, and the only steel being the crankshaft, rods and rods I would expect the iron debris to be almost invisible.
100% agree! I do every 5k with todays higher quality oils and better filters, only with full synthetic will I go 5k. But when they started to say years back oh you can go 10k I was like nah, the oil MAYBE can handle 10k but there is not a filter on the market for cars at least that can go 10k, no way at all.
Smart video for the average daily driver diy person looking for a quick peak into his/her engine! As someone else already stated, a yearly oil lab analyst would be best!
Durham, had any vehicles in that have met the can opener bridge? Or just you doing a drive through of the bridge itself. Yes the bottom spring is there to keep the element pressed up to the base, but in the middle is the bypass valve, and up top the rubber is the non return valve on the inlet. Using a different filter than the original is fine, provided it is the correct seal diameter and correct thread. You also do not want to downgrade, so longer or fatter is usable, and if you do not have a spec for valves having them is better for cold starts after overnight, where the filter without will drain back down, and thus oil pressure takes a few turns longer of the engine to build up. There are a lot of filters that are otherwise identical in all respects, just the difference being if they have inlet and outlet valves, and there are cross reference charts saying the lowest version is obsolete, and the others that are a fit and suitable replacement. On my VW I used different filters than OE, as the OE does not come with anything other than the bypass, so I used ones that fit, but have both inlet and outlet valves. Z88, the most common filter by me, to Z147 or Z157, both fitting, just one fatter and shorter than the other, but same area of filter material in them. Older cars you find filters are obsolete, but the modern spin on filter that replaces it is worlds better performance wise, or is supplied by the dealership as a replacement, improving filter ability, or improving cold start performance.
This isn't rocket science. Replace the oil & filter regularly, and you won't have to replace more costly things. Over the years, I've come across various things that people do to loosen up the gunk in old motors right before an oil change. One guy swore by adding a quart of ATF right before the oil change. Now there are additives for that purpose. I wonder if they do anything.
“Most” oil filters have a bypass valve so if the filter is plugged the bypass open & allows unfiltered oil back into the engine. Some bypass are in the bottom & some (Motorcraft for example) are in the top…which imo is the better if the 2. Fyi the regular Wix filter is one that has no bypass valve.
That wasn't a squirrel...that's a sign of old age creeping in LOL. I'm over 60 and that happens to me to lol. You really should wear gloves when handling old oil like that Jeep filter. That stuff isn't good for you and hands will absorb that stuff quick. I hate gloves myself but i wear them when changing oil.
I have at least one dumb customer in particular that has a newer Malibu. She's always 5 to 7 thousand over on oil changes. EVERYTIME she comes in with $ light on for timing codes. Car is always low on oil. I guess she likes paying $170 everytime for synthetic oil change and scan test 😂😂😂
Canister filters are not anything new. Lots of really old cars had them. Some even used toilet paper rolled for filter media. I think it's much easier to do an oil change when the filter is up top. Maybe the car manufacturers figure it's easier to get the car in and out for service.
Cost is usually always the reason why. One major contributing factor is the Government Bureaucracy and/or some environmental nonsense. Always boils down to Costs.
I do HD marine diesels since 1960. Racing engines for almost as long. I cut open the filters every time. I also test the oil once a year. That filter was plugged. The spring valve is for filters like this. The flow can never cut off. It's better to run unfiltered oil than no oil at all, or a flow that's too low.
Bearings are wearing uneven. My guess the rod, crank alignment to the cylinder is off. I found many engines that are mass produced have faults. Like the cylinder not square with the rod & crank, cam and crank not parallel, etc. Factory tolerances are wide based on their warranty costs. I think car companies only concern is having the engine run thru the warranty period without failing. A good engine machine shop will catch and fix all the errors, but it costs.
Hello Kenny, I hope you received my package. I sent it to your work. I sent you a tq wrench, bore scope and some other things. It was the only address that I could find so that is where I sent it. Thanks always.
Oil, filters, and grease, are the primary preventive maintenance any vehicle or equipment. When will people learn ? Great video !
I do HVAC and I have came across heating oil filters that were not charged in god knows how long they are so bad I had to pry it out with a screwdriver but some how the oil still got to the burner nozzle and still worked but that doesn't mean don't change it just because it still works you are damaging your oil pump and burner some people just don't get it
Kenny you do an awesome job of explaining what wrong an also what to do to fix the problem keep up the good work
Hey, Kenny, I loved your gentlemanly slap down of the "expert". I've lived long enough to know what I don't know and a lot of what I do know is from mistakes (just don't involve my wife because she has a long list of my "learning experiences"). As someone with two degrees who now happily works in the trades i can tell you that I have zero respect for the "holier than thou" grubsmorglers who think an ability to read and quote a technical manual qualifies them to function in the real world. It comes down to trust, Kenny. I'd rather take your "I don't know" over some arrogant smarfwingler's techno babble. And I sure as heck know who I'd prefer as a neighbour. Keep on busting knuckles and just be the natural teacher you are. Cheers from Canada.
p.s. In case you're wondering, with my old guy lack of tolerance for the grossenkuntz of this world, I make up words for people I don't like that sound nasty but will not show up on UA-cam's filters. Try it - I'll bet you've wanted to call an idiot customer a "sminkfest" or a "yorbflub" a few times.
Always good to hear from you young man. Pleasure to watch.
Take a magnet to the sludge to see if there is metal in it. Also, I believe the spring is meant to keep a tight internal seal so oil doesn't go around the filter.
Yes, piston ring and cylinder wall debris is magnetic. Bearing material is not.
From what I can figure that spring is possibly part of a Bypass Valve. It's there for Very cold conditions to let the oil flow past the filter when it's too thick to get through the filter fast enough. Basically it's there to prevent oil starvation in the engine when it's wintery weather on an engine cold start.
I thought Jeeps came with engine damage from the factory?
I thought only brain damaged people bought Jeeps from the factory?
That is what that is for you are correct and whoever said your wrong should shut up.
Thanks 👍Great idea. Next time i do my oil im going to cut open the filter "just for a look"
Great video Kenny!!! Thank you
In the old days all car manufacturers had a overload valve in the filter base, in modern times some don't have this and use the filter itself as pressure relief The spring does a double or triple duty as you can fit different height elements and it takes up the slack (really cheap ones look normal on the outside but are a lot shorter on the inside) and also covers material expansion with heat and plastic element and as a last resort bypass, have to be very bad for that to happen).
One of my favourite sayings. I thought I knew more when I was twenty than I do now.
An oil sample to a lab will tell you a lot more than a cut open filter. Send a sample off at minimum annually. You’ll know before you see anything in the filter. For daily drivers more than race cars.
Correct explanation of by pass value spring on bottom. Media filter gets clogged, spring goes into action to by pass clog to continue oil flow. Fellow UA-camr Whip City from Chicago just explained this last week in a video
You are correct the spring is a oil by pass
The spring is there to keep the element pressed firmly to the housing, in the middle the by pass valve is that thing going into the filter core. Spring just is a convenient place to put it, stamped out of a single piece of mild steel, with the spring function being very weak, just enough to handle the expansion of the case from Antartic temperatures to engine operating temperature.
Folks don't realize that regular maintenance prevents the biggest of problems on a vehicle. Folks like that won't fair any better with EVs.
How many engines died due to lack of maintenance? I don’t care what the manufacturer recommends.Change your oil every 3000 miles. Also the person who said to check the sludge with a magnet. Genius,the bearing coating is nonferrous.
100% agree with oil changes, using a magnet, just goes to show how many people talk crap.
@@jimamizzi1 You will always have some ferrous sludge, but only with a cast iron block. Aluminium head, aluminium block, and the only steel being the crankshaft, rods and rods I would expect the iron debris to be almost invisible.
100% agree! I do every 5k with todays higher quality oils and better filters, only with full synthetic will I go 5k. But when they started to say years back oh you can go 10k I was like nah, the oil MAYBE can handle 10k but there is not a filter on the market for cars at least that can go 10k, no way at all.
Smart video for the average daily driver diy person looking for a quick peak into his/her engine! As someone else already stated, a yearly oil lab analyst would be best!
The expert probably would say that's just metal from the filter getting broken in 😅😂
That looks like the oil in my uncle's car. He used to change the oil filter and reuse the same oil. Real smart he was.
If it's stuck in the filter, it is also in the micro screes of your oil control solenoids, and other places too....
Durham, had any vehicles in that have met the can opener bridge? Or just you doing a drive through of the bridge itself.
Yes the bottom spring is there to keep the element pressed up to the base, but in the middle is the bypass valve, and up top the rubber is the non return valve on the inlet. Using a different filter than the original is fine, provided it is the correct seal diameter and correct thread. You also do not want to downgrade, so longer or fatter is usable, and if you do not have a spec for valves having them is better for cold starts after overnight, where the filter without will drain back down, and thus oil pressure takes a few turns longer of the engine to build up. There are a lot of filters that are otherwise identical in all respects, just the difference being if they have inlet and outlet valves, and there are cross reference charts saying the lowest version is obsolete, and the others that are a fit and suitable replacement.
On my VW I used different filters than OE, as the OE does not come with anything other than the bypass, so I used ones that fit, but have both inlet and outlet valves. Z88, the most common filter by me, to Z147 or Z157, both fitting, just one fatter and shorter than the other, but same area of filter material in them. Older cars you find filters are obsolete, but the modern spin on filter that replaces it is worlds better performance wise, or is supplied by the dealership as a replacement, improving filter ability, or improving cold start performance.
Some oils advertise on the jug that it can be used for 20k miles or 1 year. Not me!
The year part is OK, but 20 thousand miles no way - 5 max
Anyone else remember the days, when it used to be change the oil every 3000 miles, and filter every second oil change?
This isn't rocket science. Replace the oil & filter regularly, and you won't have to replace more costly things.
Over the years, I've come across various things that people do to loosen up the gunk in old motors right before an oil change. One guy swore by adding a quart of ATF right before the oil change. Now there are additives for that purpose. I wonder if they do anything.
You are right kenny the guy is a not so smart guy to be nice about it
I love Glitter, just not in my Engine Oil 😂
To think my first 2 trucks had no media air filters,but oil bath air cleaners full of oil and what mess to even adjust carb..
“Most” oil filters have a bypass valve so if the filter is plugged the bypass open & allows unfiltered oil back into the engine. Some bypass are in the bottom & some (Motorcraft for example) are in the top…which imo is the better if the 2. Fyi the regular Wix filter is one that has no bypass valve.
Kenny! A new computer takes a bit to set up and get used to for computer guys too.
We don't have squirrels down here. But something shiny out the corner of my eye is enough to have the same effect 😂
Good analysis.
That wasn't a squirrel...that's a sign of old age creeping in LOL. I'm over 60 and that happens to me to lol. You really should wear gloves when handling old oil like that Jeep filter. That stuff isn't good for you and hands will absorb that stuff quick. I hate gloves myself but i wear them when changing oil.
In my opinion, that filter off of the Jeep, was ~75% plugged?
I believe being 20 THOUSAND MILES OVER due for an oil change is the issue. Not the filter being “75% plugged”, but that’s just me.
Frequent oil and filter changes are the best insurance for a long engine life that you can do.
Are you related to uncle tony. Love that one
Have had a couple vehicles only had to screw on a new filter every so often. The burning and or leaking took care of the rest.🤣
I have at least one dumb customer in particular that has a newer Malibu. She's always 5 to 7 thousand over on oil changes. EVERYTIME she comes in with $ light on for timing codes. Car is always low on oil. I guess she likes paying $170 everytime for synthetic oil change and scan test 😂😂😂
I'm ocd on oli changes I hate going over 2 miles
Experience.
WWK, keep on wrenching 😉☮️👍🤓🤙
Hi i found 2 small silver metal is that means something bad??
Why are manufacturers going away from spin on filters?
Canister filters are not anything new. Lots of really old cars had them. Some even used toilet paper rolled for filter media.
I think it's much easier to do an oil change when the filter is up top. Maybe the car manufacturers figure it's easier to get the car in and out for service.
It’s a environmental thing, less waste going into landfill.
It's a Democrat thing. LGB
Cost is usually always the reason why. One major contributing factor is the Government Bureaucracy and/or some environmental nonsense. Always boils down to Costs.
Yuck , that’s bad oil .
It looks more like detonation there brother
lol somebody doesn't change there oil . the bearings look like it has a nitro's load on it lol
I'm glad I change my oil every 1,200 miles not to get a filter in this shape. Oil drains out as clean as I pour it in....
Its easy to hide behind a key board those people should get a life instead of sitting their parents basement and criticize others
Stop waffling. We don't have time for this. I disliked and moved on.