I learned SO much in this video. I watched it literally at least 8 times. Manville Smith is a great instructor in this video (with a dash of great humor). JL Audio if my signal hero with their CleanSweep products.
6:07, some even use it to defeat NVH. Cheaper and less weight than more sound deadener (or hard body panels), which benefits fuel economy, acceleration, emissions, and so on.
I don't get it... how can you calibrate a system without having the actual speakers playing in the car binnacle (eq, time and phase corrections) ? I understand it can correct the audio output of an oem radio but it does not mean it's going to sound good afterall in car with so many different speakers placement and other vehicle variables...
ok, so you set the de-equalization with the car's volume up 75%. For my car, and maybe for many cars, the eq curve seems to change as the volume goes up. There bass doesn't continue to go up as the rest does, obviously to protect the speakers. So, with these processors we can set the eq to flatten the curve, bring back the bass.. but then what happens when we turn the car's volume down after calibration? I assume it would be overly bassy. But then there is the master volume for the box itself, on the Cleansweep, on the PXA-800, etc. Is the car's volume always at 75, and we just adjust the external amp's volume via the master volume/sub knobs included with these processors? That would make the most sense to me as the unit will get a big signal, and then the car's eq curve changing with the car's volume won't be an issue, because we won't be touching the car volume, but using the processor's volume knob- which I'm assuming is controlling how much volume of that already calibrated 75% is then given to the external amp, to amplify to the speakers. right? Is this how these things work? And is HU > processor > amp > speakers, correct? I'm not completely clueless to audio in general, but more of a novice with car audio. Thanks.
@@JLAudioInc Also don't pick an Installer that is going out of business . Twitter closed the doors , went home and the job was half A $$ finished in the parking lot. Should have left the car stock . May just rip out all the work and call it a day . . You guys should do a video on how to pull sub frequencies out of a factory head unit after going through Cleansweep .
I own one wounds like complete shit. Gonna rip it out do a nice loc to a 7 band eq with 8volt pre outs. This only pre outs 2.5 volts rms gotta see that in the fine print. If i hit eq defet my subs beat hard. As soon as i let it do it thing seems like i turned on a hpf on everything. No factory amp 13 f150. I dont know if they improved with the twx series of dsps. But the cleansweep was a waste of money in my case
I learned SO much in this video. I watched it literally at least 8 times. Manville Smith is a great instructor in this video (with a dash of great humor). JL Audio if my signal hero with their CleanSweep products.
wow, as an engineer that I am this is great stuff. good job, you sold me on this type or tech.
great video, i never leave comments on videos, but this was a very thorough video. Well made!!! makes me want to use the products for sure
Jl audio is the nasa of car audio #jlforlife
Lol this guy is so boring yet entertaining. "and in order to calibrate this we use a high precision tool like this bent paper clip I have"
So thorough, clear, and helpful. Thank you!
6:07, some even use it to defeat NVH. Cheaper and less weight than more sound deadener (or hard body panels), which benefits fuel economy, acceleration, emissions, and so on.
So in 3-way mode you would connect your tweeter outputs, mid woofer outputs, and factory sub outputs?
Does the system use RCA inputs as well?
I don't get it... how can you calibrate a system without having the actual speakers playing in the car binnacle (eq, time and phase corrections) ?
I understand it can correct the audio output of an oem radio but it does not mean it's going to sound good afterall in car with so many different speakers placement and other vehicle variables...
ok, so you set the de-equalization with the car's volume up 75%. For my car, and maybe for many cars, the eq curve seems to change as the volume goes up. There bass doesn't continue to go up as the rest does, obviously to protect the speakers. So, with these processors we can set the eq to flatten the curve, bring back the bass.. but then what happens when we turn the car's volume down after calibration? I assume it would be overly bassy.
But then there is the master volume for the box itself, on the Cleansweep, on the PXA-800, etc. Is the car's volume always at 75, and we just adjust the external amp's volume via the master volume/sub knobs included with these processors? That would make the most sense to me as the unit will get a big signal, and then the car's eq curve changing with the car's volume won't be an issue, because we won't be touching the car volume, but using the processor's volume knob- which I'm assuming is controlling how much volume of that already calibrated 75% is then given to the external amp, to amplify to the speakers. right?
Is this how these things work? And is HU > processor > amp > speakers, correct? I'm not completely clueless to audio in general, but more of a novice with car audio. Thanks.
+Matthew Maneri You are actually correct about this, and this is the reason they provide a knob for volume adjusting.
Nice vid and great info.
21:58 ok Col...
Great video.
Not sure I want a installer that throws things across the parking lot when things don't work right. Maybe that's the reason my system sounds so bad.
That MAY have something to do with it 😂
@@JLAudioInc Also don't pick an Installer that is going out of business . Twitter closed the doors , went home and the job was half A $$ finished in the parking lot. Should have left the car stock . May just rip out all the work and call it a day . . You guys should do a video on how to pull sub frequencies out of a factory head unit after going through Cleansweep .
this is excellent except for that god awful persistent music. music for intros and transitions only, people.
This thing is absolutely useless
Can you elaborate on your claim?
I own one wounds like complete shit. Gonna rip it out do a nice loc to a 7 band eq with 8volt pre outs. This only pre outs 2.5 volts rms gotta see that in the fine print. If i hit eq defet my subs beat hard. As soon as i let it do it thing seems like i turned on a hpf on everything. No factory amp 13 f150. I dont know if they improved with the twx series of dsps. But the cleansweep was a waste of money in my case