I just took delivery of a custom Ti bike. At the last moment the FD mount was not brazed on as I'd originally spec'd out. The builder of the bike was willing to still do it, but recommended against it due to the complexity and potential weakening of the seattube cased by the heat. I opted for a small carbon band and I'm really happy with the results. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the various options
I found a couple-decades-old article on line in which frames of different materials were stressed until they broke. The steel frames (which were the easiest to break, by the way) all broke at a point where there was a braze-on attachment of some sort. So your frame-builder knew what he was talking about, at least according to that reading.
Thanks you for putting this together. I want to use a front derailleur that is only made with braze-on mount. I have a steel tube that requires a clamp.
Glad it helped! Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to post a comment! Please like and share with your friends and finally please consider subscribing.
Thank you... It took me quite a bit of searching to find this straight forward answer. I didn't think mine was a braze on mount since it wasn't actually brazed.
George, this video is an answer to my prayers! I purchased a 1987 steel Schwinn Tempo bike. The clamp on my front derailleur screw is oriented so that it greatly interferes when I change my back tire. My bike shop tells me they can't reposition the clamp’s screw to the side. What do you suggest?
Thank you! I needed this super simple explanation! just ordered my new GRX FR and it was braze on, and my project bike is clamp on, kinda freakt out a little! Thanks! Clamp adapter it is then!
Awesome video thanks👍 great info My canondale super six evo 2017 Mount has failed so would it be possible to put a clamp on style and not damage the carbon frame ?? Many thanks Addie cusack
That’s a tricky question without seeing the bike. Did you have a braze-on and it failed? How will you clamp it with the braze-in still there? You would be limited to its placement and the chainrings you wish to use. Also if the frame was designed for brazen, it may not be reinforced in that same area for a clamp on front derailleur. Thanks for watching. I hope this helps. Please consider subscribing.
George, what am I supposed to do with those two screws on top of front derailleur? Mine came from another user with one being almost unscrewed barely hanging and the right one unscrewed just a bit. So I wonder is it some sort of adjusting done there ?
If you have removal screws they are used to make adjustments on the front derailleur tab or you have the option to remove it completely. Get some anti-seize or light loctite and tighten them up so they are secure for good shifting and/or don’t fall out 😂
Hello Gerardo! The clamp provides a much more secure mounting and the Front Derailleur is much better supported or stiffer for shifting under load! Great question and thank you for watching! Please subscribe
I have a carbon frame with squared seat tube. It was originally set up as a 1x and has no mount for front derailleur. Is there any version of a clamp that will allow me to mount to squared carbon tubing?
That’s a really good question. Square seat tubes need to have a braze-on or screw-on FD mount. I am not familiar of an aftermarket set-up for square seat tubes 😢
Question I just bought a carbo bike frame That's the front derailleur have clamp, the problem is that I don't like to use clamps and I want to put a direct mount (or braze on) that is not clamp, can put direct mount, you can I drill the seat tube to put rivets on it, or it damages the integrity of the frame
Why would want to drill holes in carbon fiber frame that wasn’t designed to be drilled in that location? Stick with the clamp it is significantly better and stiffer. It provides better front derailleur function - in other words better shifting. As the Retro Grouch I’m here to tell that’s another reason why I don’t like carbon frames or components - they are fragile if not used in the specific way they were designed. Even when used in the way they were designed they will fail. Stick with the clamp design
Thank you for answering my question. Now that you clarified me, I'm going to continue with the clamp, I think I'll put the clamp adapter for braze on because the derailleur I have is braze on 12 speed super record electronic or thanks again
I don't know what groupset speed that is Jesus. 3x? I don't usually work on Tiagra and triple chainring bikes maybe you can use a different triple Tiagra FD
I would be interested to know what groupset you are running. For Shimano here are the links for you to reference. Look for the words "Total Capacity" in the spec sheet Here is R9250 FD 12 Speed Di2 -- bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/dura-ace-r9200/FD-R9250.html Here is Ultegra 12 Di2 FD bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-r8100/FD-R8150.html Here is 105 FD 12 speed Di2 bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/shimano105-r7100-di2/FD-R7150.html 11 Speed Dura-Ace Di2 bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/duraace-r9150-di2/FD-R9150.html I can continue to list the spec for Front Derailleur but I think you get the picture by now. 11 and 12 speed total capacity is stated at 16T. It is the same whether mechanical or Di2 - 16T Now I know that rear derailleurs will have a spec of let's say 11-32 and I have been able to make them work with much larger cassettes but sometimes it takes a bit of Jerry-rigging
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad you dont said that it is on a specific groupset. Fd-t610 is 22 a mtb rd and fd-r3030 is sora with 20tooth. And to my experience the front derailleur doesnt matter if in the rear is 9 or 11 speed. I ride a 9 and 8 speed fd with a 10 speed rear derailleur. I even Mix mtb with road components. Like 10 speed mtb rear deraileur with 10 speed or 8 speed road shifters Di2 is a other thing
I personally would not have traded that dura ace one for a modern one UNLESS its durace. Just 3d print a shim. I found that ABS is good. I printed one for a vintage mtb and has worked fine for years
I just took delivery of a custom Ti bike. At the last moment the FD mount was not brazed on as I'd originally spec'd out. The builder of the bike was willing to still do it, but recommended against it due to the complexity and potential weakening of the seattube cased by the heat. I opted for a small carbon band and I'm really happy with the results. Thanks for the detailed explanation of the various options
I found a couple-decades-old article on line in which frames of different materials were stressed until they broke. The steel frames (which were the easiest to break, by the way) all broke at a point where there was a braze-on attachment of some sort. So your frame-builder knew what he was talking about, at least according to that reading.
Thanks you for putting this together. I want to use a front derailleur that is only made with braze-on mount. I have a steel tube that requires a clamp.
You’re Welcome!
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Thank you so much for this education. This video was a godsend when upgrading components on my bike.
Glad it helped! Thank you so much for watching and taking the time to post a comment!
Please like and share with your friends and finally please consider subscribing.
Thanks so much for the lesson...very clear and understandable explanation...
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
A good video made great by Celeste-colored watchband AND glasses!
Celeste forever!
Thank you... It took me quite a bit of searching to find this straight forward answer. I didn't think mine was a braze on mount since it wasn't actually brazed.
You’re welcome. I’m glad my video was helpful to you. Please consider subscribing.
George, this video is an answer to my prayers! I purchased a 1987 steel Schwinn Tempo bike. The clamp on my front derailleur screw is oriented so that it greatly interferes when I change my back tire. My bike shop tells me they can't reposition the clamp’s screw to the side. What do you suggest?
Thank you! I needed this super simple explanation! just ordered my new GRX FR and it was braze on, and my project bike is clamp on, kinda freakt out a little! Thanks! Clamp adapter it is then!
You’re Welcome!
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Thanks George! Which FD would go on the Ritchey with 28.6 seat tube? I only see 31 and 34 mm options.
You're Welcome Troy! The smallest one comes with an insert to fit on the Ritchey seat tube. SM-AD17-M CLAMP BAND ADAPTERS FOR M-SIZE /31.8MM(1-1/4")
Awesome video thanks👍 great info
My canondale super six evo 2017 Mount has failed so would it be possible to put a clamp on style and not damage the carbon frame ??
Many thanks
Addie cusack
That’s a tricky question without seeing the bike. Did you have a braze-on and it failed? How will you clamp it with the braze-in still there? You would be limited to its placement and the chainrings you wish to use. Also if the frame was designed for brazen, it may not be reinforced in that same area for a clamp on front derailleur.
Thanks for watching. I hope this helps. Please consider subscribing.
George, what am I supposed to do with those two screws on top of front derailleur?
Mine came from another user with one being almost unscrewed barely hanging and the right one unscrewed just a bit. So I wonder is it some sort of adjusting done there ?
If you have removal screws they are used to make adjustments on the front derailleur tab or you have the option to remove it completely. Get some anti-seize or light loctite and tighten them up so they are secure for good shifting and/or don’t fall out 😂
great video thanks !
You're welcome! Please consider subscribing
Is there any advantage to the clamp on at all?
Hello Gerardo! The clamp provides a much more secure mounting and the Front Derailleur is much better supported or stiffer for shifting under load! Great question and thank you for watching! Please subscribe
Can and will a clamp on mount work with the NEW ELECTRIC SHIFTING? Thank you in advance.
sure why not? In fact they are stiffer and the support bolt doesn't even need to be used.
thanks for watching please consider subscribing.
I have a carbon frame with squared seat tube. It was originally set up as a 1x and has no mount for front derailleur. Is there any version of a clamp that will allow me to mount to squared carbon tubing?
That’s a really good question. Square seat tubes need to have a braze-on or screw-on FD mount. I am not familiar of an aftermarket set-up for square seat tubes 😢
Question I just bought a carbo bike frame That's the front derailleur have clamp, the problem is that I don't like to use clamps and I want to put a direct mount (or braze on) that is not clamp, can put direct mount, you can I drill the seat tube to put rivets on it, or it damages the integrity of the frame
Why would want to drill holes in carbon fiber frame that wasn’t designed to be drilled in that location?
Stick with the clamp it is significantly better and stiffer. It provides better front derailleur function - in other words better shifting.
As the Retro Grouch I’m here to tell that’s another reason why I don’t like carbon frames or components - they are fragile if not used in the specific way they were designed. Even when used in the way they were designed they will fail.
Stick with the clamp design
Thank you for answering my question. Now that you clarified me, I'm going to continue with the clamp, I think I'll put the clamp adapter for braze on because the derailleur I have is braze on 12 speed super record electronic or thanks again
@@carlosquesadamonge213 You’re Welcome ! Please consider subscribing
George I have a 2005 trek road bike w a shimano tiagra 4403 front derailleur that broke. Cannot find replacement. Any advise
I don't know what groupset speed that is Jesus. 3x? I don't usually work on Tiagra and triple chainring bikes maybe you can use a different triple Tiagra FD
Just ran into this problem an hour ago. Clamp size is too big for the intended frame. Oh well maybe next weekend…kicking the can down the road.
Ahh man that sucks! Let’s hope for next weekend!! 😊 thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Thank You Sir!😊
You’re welcome thanks for watching. Please consider subscribing.
16 tooth maximum capacity on a shimano front derailleur? Then Why I have a 20 and a 22 tooth front derailleur from Shimano ?
I would be interested to know what groupset you are running. For Shimano here are the links for you to reference. Look for the words "Total Capacity" in the spec sheet
Here is R9250 FD 12 Speed Di2 -- bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/dura-ace-r9200/FD-R9250.html
Here is Ultegra 12 Di2 FD
bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/ultegra-r8100/FD-R8150.html
Here is 105 FD 12 speed Di2
bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/shimano105-r7100-di2/FD-R7150.html
11 Speed Dura-Ace Di2
bike.shimano.com/en-US/product/component/duraace-r9150-di2/FD-R9150.html
I can continue to list the spec for Front Derailleur but I think you get the picture by now. 11 and 12 speed total capacity is stated at 16T. It is the same whether mechanical or Di2 - 16T
Now I know that rear derailleurs will have a spec of let's say 11-32 and I have been able to make them work with much larger cassettes but sometimes it takes a bit of Jerry-rigging
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad you dont said that it is on a specific groupset. Fd-t610 is 22 a mtb rd and fd-r3030 is sora with 20tooth. And to my experience the front derailleur doesnt matter if in the rear is 9 or 11 speed. I ride a 9 and 8 speed fd with a 10 speed rear derailleur. I even Mix mtb with road components.
Like 10 speed mtb rear deraileur with 10 speed or 8 speed road shifters
Di2 is a other thing
@@-Gothicgirl- I didn't specify a groupset but this is predominately a high end road channel like my brick and mortar. Thank You for watching.
I personally would not have traded that dura ace one for a modern one UNLESS its durace. Just 3d print a shim. I found that ABS is good. I printed one for a vintage mtb and has worked fine for years