I like the slanted style with the high back. I was going to add a few more to my pantry (they're all just 2" all the way around), but now I think I will replace them with this style. Also, nice to see it being installed on site.
Thanks Wes. My wife and I were shopping for a new fridge when she saw the pullout shelves. I now have a project. I now need to determine what new tools I need to complete this project. 😉
I had the same question as one of the previous comments , the slides. Wes you said that you usually uses under mount slides because didn’t mention the name or put in a link either to the manufacturer or Amazon or other places to get the slides.
How would you install a pull out shelf in a bathroom vanity, under the sink, with existing drawers on both sides, hence no vertical cabinet sides to mount the drawer guides to?
would suggest routing and sanding the edges before assembly, much easier. Also, as others have noted, he needs to use push sticks to keep his hands farther from the blade.
You make this look so simple an easy; nice. This is what I need for two lower cabinets in my kitchen. They are 14-1/2" X 29" inside dimensions. Where can I get the same sliders that you are using?
I have two lower cabinets that are 14-1/2" X 23" deep to make pullout shelves for. I am not sure of how much clearance I need to allow for these sliders.
I thought FOR SURE you would glue the bottom panel in place to the sides and the front groove (as you did) to reinforce the nailed butt joints. It is questionable if nailed joints will hold for a long time or under high load.
I would not be comfortable with the longterm durability of the drawer boxes; he only nailed them together, the prefinished surface at the joints (very little board to board friction interface at joint) will eventually allow movement and loosening of the joint. I would want at minimum the joints glued, even better to use screws, dowels, or dado joints at the corners. I also cringed watching Wes cut without push blocks. He really trusts his Saw Stop.
Sorry, could you explain better why you used those space-out blocks? Its the first time i see those, and I've seen many times those kind of sliders being mounted directly on the cabinet sides
The spacer blocks are to allow for proper function of the hinges. There needs to be 1" space when the hinges are mounted on the same side as the drawer slide. Hope this helps. Thanks, Wes
Thanks for the detailed mfg of drawer. I just installed drawer self closing sliders and found that the drawers mfg in or about 2002 and they didn’t cut a grove for the drawer bottoms. They are ok for now but how could I replace the ¼ inch bottoms that they stapled to the drawer vertical sides. I feel the configuration I have is weak. I don’t have all the tools you use but I do have an old Sears table saw and other less sofisticated tolls.
Hi...I feel confident I can help you, however, it would require more than just a brief comment. Go to woodworkingwithwes.com where you will find an opportunity for me to provide you a complete, personalized video for your project. Thanks, Wes
He didn't give any detail about the slides. They are undermounted slides, and like he showed you slightly tilt down the rear and push the drawer in until it engages the both slides, then push down the front of the drawer to seat it. No fasteners required. I recently installed this style, but the brand I used (and others like Blum) require a hole drilled in each rear lower outside corner, a metal tang on each slide goes into the holes to seat and secure the drawer. Works well, and drawer removal if needed is simple, just push/pop up the front and pull out the drawer box.
Wait what just happened? You didn’t have to attach 1/2 of the slide to the underneath of the drawer? Huh? Didn’t talk about or show rhyme or reason (how to make installation jig). What. I’m totally confused
Watch perkins home builders he was lax in following safety around power tools almost lost his hand.what is going to happen to this person he disses saftey like he doing 1 knot and a kick back or even a bind his hand 4 sure is in danger.
Nice pullouts, but dang, you're either brave or stupid, getting your fingers so close to the blade. Experienced or not, keep your fingers away. Bad example for the newbies.
Content very good but he is being a bad example for process of cutting the panels. There is no riving knife in the saw and his hands come very close to the rotating blade on several of the cuts. He is obviously a professional that feels comfortable with this technique but many of the people watching the video are weekend DIYers.
I like the slanted style with the high back. I was going to add a few more to my pantry (they're all just 2" all the way around), but now I think I will replace them with this style. Also, nice to see it being installed on site.
Thanks Wes. Another great video!
Thanks Wes. My wife and I were shopping for a new fridge when she saw the pullout shelves. I now have a project. I now need to determine what new tools I need to complete this project. 😉
What a great opportunity for new tools 😀 I am sure it will be great! Wes
AWSOME Wes.
Soft close. Thats like butter
Great video Wes! I could do with some of these myself 👌👌👌👌👌
how did you attach the draw to the draw guides
Very nice! Such a clear explanation! Could you tell us where you bought the prefinished plywood, undermount slides and those spacer blocks? Thanks!
Awesome explanation and design as usual!! You are a professional and an artist! I can't imagine a better teacher! Thanks for your content!
Thank you very much for your comment and visiting the channel. Wes
Your work is second to none God continue to bless you and your family and your work outstanding.
God is great careful with your hands boss.Bottom line
Excellent video. Thank you Mr. Wes. I have followed your videos and I picked up some of your tricks. Keep up the good work!
Thank you so very much for being part of the community! Wes
Good video Wes. Can you tell me who manufactured the shelf soft close slides? I like yours better than the ones I purchased.
Great video and good explanation. Also showed how much better the metric system is superior in every aspect.
Thank you for watching ! Wes
what is the benefit of using the pneumatic staple vs brad or finish nailer?
5:27 -- this tip alone made the video for me; not sure why it hadn't occurred to me before
Glad you enjoyed the video...thanks for watching, Wes
I like the video, and I am looking forward to making these for my home. I do have a question...What brand hinges are those?
I use Blum cabinet hardware for drawer slides and hinges. Thanks, Wes
Great video. Did I miss which slides you used?
Any ideas for custom blind corner pull outs
I can’t wait to see how you build an upper cabinet.
Sounds like a great suggestion for an upcoming video. Thanks, Wes
I had the same question as one of the previous comments , the slides. Wes you said that you usually uses under mount slides because didn’t mention the name or put in a link either to the manufacturer or Amazon or other places to get the slides.
How would you install a pull out shelf in a bathroom vanity, under the sink, with existing drawers on both sides, hence no vertical cabinet sides to mount the drawer guides to?
would suggest routing and sanding the edges before assembly, much easier. Also, as others have noted, he needs to use push sticks to keep his hands farther from the blade.
Don't forget to use your saw guard when you do this at home ; )
You make this look so simple an easy; nice. This is what I need for two lower cabinets in my kitchen. They are 14-1/2" X 29" inside dimensions. Where can I get the same sliders that you are using?
They are Blum drawer slides and you should be able to find them online for retail outlets. Thanks for watching, Wes
I have two lower cabinets that are 14-1/2" X 23" deep to make pullout shelves for. I am not sure of how much clearance I need to allow for these sliders.
Wes where do you find the spacer blocks and euro screws?
Hi...I purchased mine from a local hardwood supplier but you could check Blum website for accessories which should in those items. Good luck! Wes
I thought FOR SURE you would glue the bottom panel in place to the sides and the front groove (as you did) to reinforce the nailed butt joints. It is questionable if nailed joints will hold for a long time or under high load.
Same thought. All this labor for a shelf that won't take years of a couple cast iron pots taken off and put on.
I would not be comfortable with the longterm durability of the drawer boxes; he only nailed them together, the prefinished surface at the joints (very little board to board friction interface at joint) will eventually allow movement and loosening of the joint. I would want at minimum the joints glued, even better to use screws, dowels, or dado joints at the corners.
I also cringed watching Wes cut without push blocks. He really trusts his Saw Stop.
What kind and type of wood is being used? I know it's ply. But it looks like it has a sheen or veneer on it.
Baltic birch,I think
. At time 10:40 he explains the panels are pefinished Baltic Birch plywood.
@@3frogltd987 Thank you. I must've missed that part.
Sorry, could you explain better why you used those space-out blocks?
Its the first time i see those, and I've seen many times those kind of sliders being mounted directly on the cabinet sides
The spacer blocks are to allow for proper function of the hinges. There needs to be 1" space when the hinges are mounted on the same side as the drawer slide. Hope this helps. Thanks, Wes
@@WoodworkingWithWes of course, there’s going to be a door in front of the shelves.
My bad 👍🏻
You keep your blade to high! Be careful and don’t cut your fingers off.
Thanks for the detailed mfg of drawer. I just installed drawer self closing sliders and found that the drawers mfg in or about 2002 and they didn’t cut a grove for the drawer bottoms. They are ok for now but how could I replace the ¼ inch bottoms that they stapled to the drawer vertical sides. I feel the configuration I have is weak. I don’t have all the tools you use but I do have an old Sears table saw and other less sofisticated tolls.
Hi...I feel confident I can help you, however, it would require more than just a brief comment. Go to woodworkingwithwes.com where you will find an opportunity for me to provide you a complete, personalized video for your project. Thanks, Wes
Did anyone else notice that he completely missed showing how to put the slide on the bottom of the drawer?
Perhaps he wants us to use our own grey matter.😊
He didn't give any detail about the slides. They are undermounted slides, and like he showed you slightly tilt down the rear and push the drawer in until it engages the both slides, then push down the front of the drawer to seat it. No fasteners required. I recently installed this style, but the brand I used (and others like Blum) require a hole drilled in each rear lower outside corner, a metal tang on each slide goes into the holes to seat and secure the drawer. Works well, and drawer removal if needed is simple, just push/pop up the front and pull out the drawer box.
The blum undermount slides require a left and right locking device on the front underside of the drawers to be able to clip to the slides
Why not just use a long piece of wood instead of each 2 plastic blocks?
Why use a spacer at all? Can't you just make the shelf wider?
The plastic spacer blocks are provided for perfect spacing to allow for hinges when doing a rollout shelf. Thanks, Wes
Wait what just happened? You didn’t have to attach 1/2 of the slide to the underneath of the drawer? Huh? Didn’t talk about or show rhyme or reason (how to make installation jig). What. I’m totally confused
Thank you...you are right! Sounds like I need to make a new video with a better
explanation. Wes
23 and 15/16 whyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy?
Watch perkins home builders he was lax in following safety around power tools almost lost his hand.what is going to happen to this person he disses saftey like he doing 1 knot and a kick back or even a bind his hand 4 sure is in danger.
Nice pullouts, but dang, you're either brave or stupid, getting your fingers so close to the blade. Experienced or not, keep your fingers away. Bad example for the newbies.
Content very good but he is being a bad example for process of cutting the panels. There is no riving knife in the saw and his hands come very close to the rotating blade on several of the cuts. He is obviously a professional that feels comfortable with this technique but many of the people watching the video are weekend DIYers.
I don't see the subscribe button.
He was also using his rip fence as a stop block for his cross cuts. Recipe for kickback.
Not to worry .
Exactly , the safety six inches rule
It’s a saw stop. He is good
Nice job. You killed width, depth and height with your pull out, all while ripping off another companies design in the process.
Really? I developed this design on my own over 20 years ago and have been using it ever since. Wes
Not original