Beware of new IronBull Dump trailers.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I purchased a brand new Iron Bull Dump trailer 14k DWB. The trailer is strong and carries plenty of weight. Unfortunately the brakes did not work well when I purchased it. Almost causing an accident. The dealer informed me that this was not the first Iron Bull trailer this happened to.
In the market for an Iron Bull 16’ dumper.
Very informative.
Thank you.
I just bought a new 7x16 Iron Bull Dump trailer which is 16K rated, it has the oil bath Dexter axles. I get it home go to load my 9k Kubota kx-040 mini excavator and the tires bottom out on the fenders. Called the dealer, they asked for pictures to submit to IB, and Iron Bull has not returned their call. I went and contacted Iron Bull about this issue and they have me measure the fenders and frame send them the pictures, had to call them back. They said they did not put the fenders in the right location so they offered to cut off the fenders and reweld them 2 inches higher and not repaint the trailer but use touch up paint or they will send me 2 inch Leaf spring blocks (lift kit) Dexter Axel does not advise lift blocks on their equipment. Also on one side the hangers are about an inch over outside of the frame, one side the fender is about 1/2 inch higher than the other side. I even asked them to just swap out the trailer, and I would be a happy loyal customer, but I get sent a copy of their warranty stating they can offer options to address the issue. I WOULD NOT BUY AN IRON BULL.
Thank GOD the dealer is taking this unsafe literally DUMP of a trailer back. I have pictures if anyone is thinking about buying anything from IRON BULL CRAP.
Thank you for the information! I own a small landscaping business and own a few trailers! Very good information!
there are only a few manufacturers of the axles that all the manufacturers use- doesn't matter if it's Iron Bull, Diamond C, Load Trail, etc, and they all seem to use the same electric brake setup if so equipped. all drum brakes should be adjusted initially by hand and mostly will automatically keep adjustment- occasional re-adjustment may be necessary. to depend on the auto-adjusters to make that initial adjustment is just dumb if you want to load that trailer up right out of the dealer gate. also, i make it a practice to always check that my trailer brake settings and functionality in my driveway- adjust up the gain till they just start to lock up then back down a tad.
Same thing happened to me. The dealer had to go through three trailers before they could get one with working brakes. I fully understand the break in period and self adjusting brakes. When the dealer and lead mechanics can’t get the brakes to work after hours of adjusting and diagnostic then you have a issue. A trailer should at least actuate before you leave the lot. The final trailer worked perfectly and was able to break it in appropriately. I love my iron bull trailer and it is very well built. The brake system they use may be their only fault. Bottom line is you should always check your equipment before you leave the dealer.
Good words
Mine was the same way, it’s not iron bulls fault. The trailer place sucks where I got mine. I just took it home and parked it till I had time to do it my self. Never rely on these type brakes unless you learn the process. You have to get involved with it to be safe. It won’t be the last time you need to fool with them. My truck stops it fine with or without brakes working but I do need them to work of course. When I picked mine up. They had 6 trailer all with various damage from manufacture and they loaded them anyways and shipped them. I crawled all over mine checking it out and it looked fine.
Not saying your trailer doesn’t have a problem. But that trailer only weighs 4000-5000 lbs empty? If it shoved you though an intersection, while it was empty, your driving un-safe.
that trailer is 3500 tops
I disagree with needing a bigger truck or heavy duty power. Them brakes are 12 volt DC electric so u should be able to hook up just about any setup with the 7 or 8 prong wiring harness and have stopping power with gain set at 1.5 up to 3.5. Definitely need to break in the braking system by applying only the gain switch in your truck rolling at 40mph down to 10 mph. Honestly any brand new trailer should be able to stop no matter what right off the lot of any dealership. These companies now a days are building garbage and using garbage parts. Not saying your brand is garbage by any means. It's just sad for us as consumers to spend thousands on equipment and within months it starts to fall apart. Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Those have auto adjusting brakes. Any new trailer needs to be driven while applying the electric brake(including reverse) so that they can self adjust. Dealer should have explained that to you. These trailers are shipped without tires ,stacked on freight trailers, then assembled at the dealers location.
Thank you for your explanation. I am getting other comments and research I am doing agreeing with you. Not sure why iron Bull paid for an adjustment and the dealer didn’t say anything. Still disappointed if they need adjustment time and they knew I was planning to haul an excavator why I wasn’t warned to delay hauling until brakes were ready.
I havent been told that either. This should be on a dam paper for new trailer owners.
True
I just bought a new 7x16 Iron Bull Dump trailer which is 16K rated, it has the oil bath Dexter axles. I get it home go to load my 9k Kubota kx-040 mini excavator and the tires bottom out on the fenders. Called the dealer, they asked for pictures to submit to IB, and Iron Bull has not returned their call. I went and contacted Iron Bull about this issue and they have me measure the fenders and frame send them the pictures, had to call them back. They said they did not put the fenders in the right location so they offered to cut off the fenders and reweld them 2 inches higher and not repaint the trailer but use touch up paint or they will send me 2 inch Leaf spring blocks (lift kit) Dexter Axel does not advise lift blocks on their equipment. Also on one side the hangers are about an inch over outside of the frame, one side the fender is about 1/2 inch higher than the other side. I even asked them to just swap out the trailer, and I would be a happy loyal customer, but I get sent a copy of their warranty stating they can offer options to address the issue. I WOULD NOT BUY AN IRON BULL.
Thank GOD the dealer is taking this unsafe literally DUMP of a trailer back. I have pictures if anyone is thinking about buying anything from IRON BULL CRAP.
I'm on a learning curve with my trailer also. That said, my brakes are working. Damned Break free cable engauged the brakes when I was trying to turn around on a narrow street. It took me a while to figure out why the brakes were locked up. In any case, it's hard to totally blame the trailer company . Covid screwed everything up in the world's supply chain. Probably messed up Dexter also. I'm glad you caught the problem with an empty trailer. It could have been much much worse.
Good points, and all we can do is keep learning to avoid future issues.
You might need to up the power outage is the power outage on your brake controller and check to make sure that is putting out the right amount of voltage. Is on the trailer depending on what brand of the axles axles there's a Juster that you can tighten the slack on the brakesSo find out what type of axle it is and the Jack it up and then you should be able to hear a drag when you turn the individual wheel and then back off one clickBut check with the brand of the axle for proper adjustment.. I had a problem with a brand new Is equipment trailer where one side was grabbing harder than the other side so had to even them out.
Thank you for the suggestion. I will double check that. The tests we did indicated it was more in the brakes themselves, but I always appreciate educated suggestions like yours.
Somehow I did not get all of your comment before my first reply. The rest of the text came through on working the brakes afterward. Will give this a look. Thanks again.
I had the opposite issue - when hitting the brakes they lock up immediately and burn rubber . I had to adjust my brake controller from the truck from normal gain of 6 to 2 and now it brakes good. But i have another , I can hear pretty loud creaking noise coming from the suspension especially when making a slight turn ,pretty embarrassing.
It would be wonderful if everything worked smoothly from the star.
Unfortunately these are the kinds of things that can happen with just about any manufacturer. There were mistakes made at the factory before the trailer left the factory, it should have been gone over and the problem should’ve been found, it was a quality control issue. Likewise when the trailer reached the dealership this problem should have been found before the customer received the trailer, a final pre-delivery inspection especially since they had this very same issue recently with another Iron Bull Trailer. Lastly and most importantly anyone who attaches a trailer to their trucks needs to do a “pre-trip inspection” every single time to verify that there are no issues including the coupling devices, the lights, making sure all your doors and ramps are secured, that the tires are inflated properly and last but not least the brakes need to be tested and the controller adjusted for your setup. They should be tested before you leave when you are empty and again when loaded. Every truck, trailer, and cargo is different, so check your gain on your controller when empty applying the brakes using the controller only while going about 5mph, you should feel the truck slow down without locking the brakes up, again do the same thing with the equipment on the trailer, you will have to turn the gain up higher with the added weight for the trailer to adequately slow the truck without applying the foot brake to the truck. Try it on #1 and then on #10 and see the difference, it should be as different as night and day. With the brakes locking up on 10 when empty.
Jumping into a pickup truck and just “hooking and booking” will get you and or someone else killed, destroy your truck, trailer and equipment. Ultimately the responsibility falls onto the driver if an accident takes place. Nobody should ever drive off without knowing if everything is working properly, especially the brakes.
Thank the good Lord nobody was hurt and it was hopefully a lesson learned and learned by many who watch your video also👍🏼
Have a Blessed Day🙏🏼
Thank you for taking the time to type this reminder. All good words of wisdom.
Interesting… I bought an iron bull trailer and the same thing happened to me. I took it to the mechanic and only three out of four trailer brakes were working. Also, the first tire changes on all four wheels stripped the wheel studs due to being overtightened. Besides that, it’s a solid trailer…
Sorry to hear it wasn’t ready to go for you. Someday they will come dialed in.
Put in an aftermarket brake controller, Ram in dash controllers are not worth anything. I towed a toy hauler with my Ram and never knew how the brakes would work, I replaced the factory brake controller and made night and day difference!
Always check your brakes before pulling out.
i luv that 7×14 dump trailer in the gray color I would like to have the same size in the gray paint and white rims
Unfortunately it seems like the weak point of most trailers is the standard suspension and brake systems being slipper springs and electric drum brakes. Both require quite a bit of maintenance from replacing spring eye bolts, bushings, and equalizers potentially every year if the trailer sees daily usage, to having to run new inter-axle brake wiring because the wire moves and rubs in the inside of the axle tube and wears out the protective jacket. This causes intermittent complete brake failures etc. I’ve noticed on a few new trailers that brake assemblies are installed backwards, meaning the assemblies are directional and in this case, Dexter, was installing right side brake assemblies on the left side of the axles they were supplying. This is something that can easily be caught if the trailer has torsion axles because the alignment tab may not be accessible if the brake assembly is meant for the opposite end of the axle because of the backer plate stud orientation, on a straight axle it’s not always obvious.
It’s pretty sad to see people have these problems, specially when buying new. These systems are good for light to moderate usage. If you’re using your trailer daily and constantly loaded to over 50%, consider electric over hydraulic drum or disc braking axles, torsion axles, or even moving up into a setup where cou can run 10k single wheel axles with hutch suspension to get a more reliable and long lasting setup with longer periods between maintenance intervals. These units are more expensive and usual need to be ordered but if you really use the trailer day in day out you may appreciate ordering a trailer and waiting for it a little, then getting a more suitable trailer. Just my thoughts as a person that has spent a lot of time under a trailer in a shop or on the side of road in the cold trying to get it going again. Frequent in depth inspections a worth it.
Thank you. You clearly have more knowledge and experience in this area than I have. I appreciate your insights.
I just went out to look at a weld job for my friend, he had an IronBull trailer just like that but with higher sides and he was hauling an excavator just like that one.
the bracket that holds the leaf spring on busted off from the frame, one side of the bracket wasnt even welded to the frame like the other side of the trailer and the welds were so cold only 1/8 of an inch was penetrating. most all the welds with the brackets that hold the springs on were shit and another weld was missing.
Driving 65 mph and that happens it could mean death. I will do a youtube video of it when I fix it.
I would buy one but would check all the main welds first.
thanks for this info
My Iron Bull has the same braking symptoms. Bought it Sept 2021.
After burnishing the brakes mine is doing much better now.
What brand axles does Iron Bull use? I had the same problem with the Lippert axles on Diamomd C. The brakes on the Dexter axles for the PJ Trailer worked great on day 1.
These were actually Dexter axles
I forgot to say earlier I luv that deere xcavator anything from deere I luv it
The excavator has opened up the opportunity to do so many things.
Struggled through this whole video but do not recall hearing one thing about the actual problem or what the mechanics did to fix the brakes. You didn't ask? Just complained? And still complaining. . . Find out the problem! That's what important. Not the "What If's" You were responsible to check your rig before you left the lot. A simple brake check. Standard trailer operating procedure. We do it in airplanes. We do it in trucks. Everyone should do it cars.
I understand your point. At the time of video problem hadn’t been resolved. They work great now after we went through the burnishing process. Talked about that in follow up video. Burnishing is simple and my larger point is a vehicle(trailer) should be ready for use when purchased off a commercial lot.
You have not owned a trailer with auto adjust brakes before have you. Did you read your owners manual before you towed it. There is a procedure YOU NEED TO FOLLOW BEFORE TRYING TO TOW THESE TRAILERS, READ IT BEFORE SPREADING FALSE NARRATIVES.
I have owned other trailers with these brakes. I also checked with the dealer and he said they were not functioning properly. Iron Bull paid to have them fixed. I did make it clear that I was not bad mouthing the entire trailer. Just to make sure everything was working well before doing heavy work. Just showing the experience I had.
You have to burnish new trailer brakes. you should have realized that before driving off.
Yes that is what I said in the video. My newness to heavy trailers was a hindrance. I am surprised the dealer did not mention this. Should be standard practice for a dealer to mention this each time they sell a new trailer. I know now.
They have self adjusting brakes , you have to test the trailer brakes and adjust the gain as the brakes adjust, this is what my dealer told me and mine works fine
Every truck driver in the country does a pre-trip inspection and they check there brakes, all you have to do is manually apply the trailer brakes they need to hold the truck, its your responsibility
I used to just kick the tires but I’ll do this now!
First thing anyone should do BEFORE hitting the road when hauling is test your brakes. Adjust your brake controller as necessary before going anywhere!
Needs to be on heavy electric setting on ram. It makes a big difference
I have had one for 5 years and I’ve had the brakes lock up the tires on the trailer no issue.
I've bought two Iron Bull Trailers and both times the dealer told me to be careful until I have 25-50 brake applications to get the brakes to adjust out. They are adjusted in from the factory, according to the dealer, so that while sitting on the lots for months the brakes don't rust to the drums and lock up. A knowledgeable dealer should tell customers that. Iron Bull is one of the best trailer brands on the market and use the same brakes as most other top performing trailers.
I agree. Dealers should all do as your dealer did and let new buyers know of potential hazards but that braking will improve over time. I love my ironbull trailer but wish they would just burnish the brakes before initial sale.
You need to go into brake setting and select HEAVY ELECTRIC in the menu !Or the brake actuation will be to weak not aggressive enough for the heavy weight of that trailer .I have a ram 3500 diesel sually and tow for my business pleas set it up right!
That suck cause you doing break tests to just confirm your breaks work especially when carrying a load is wear and tear on your hauler. It shouldnt be that difficult to own a dump trailer.
Yikes! I will likely never need to own one of those but it is a very good "heads up" in general! Appreciate it!
You never know Bonnie. It was years before I had a dump trailer. Now I upgraded to this. Who knows I may have a dump truck soon. Thanks for watching the channel.
Love my ironbull... that baby rocks..
Lol
I recently purchased Ironbull 14ft but I get that creaking/squeaking noise coming from the axles /suspension area . Have you noticed anything like this on yours ?
Test your brakes after you hook up before you go on the road! Set your controller for your load! You are the operator and are liable for your vehicle
Odd. Been an Iron Bull dealer for 6 years and never ran into this issue. Brakes are assembled and installed by the axle manufacturer (in this case Dexter) and all the trailer manufacturer does is bolt them in and hook up the wires. This is the same for ALL trailer manufacturers. They do use a forward adjusting brake system (same as Load Trail, PJ, Big Tex etc. which I also sell) and I warn all my customers that they will feel odd for the first few braking applications when loaded and they will set up quick. If someone is going straight to the job site we get underneath and do a manual adjustment to the star wheel and they're good to go. In this case I would say the salesperson did not do their job or did not have the proper knowledge.
Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
I have 2 iron bull trailers .....they are great trailers .....you have to burnish the brakes....look up lippert trailer brake in procedures.....takes like 10-15 max power gain braking runs from 45 down to 5 before they start really grabbing....
Thank you. I have come to understand there is a break in time. I will look into this particular process.
Your #1 problem is u need a heavy duty truck.... breaks or not a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton would stop regardless
public service announcement ..... an empty 3500lb trailer brake isn't gonna stop your 8klb truck..
Why would you tow without checking your brakes first?
Good question but in this scenario I wasn't even towing. I was taking home a brand new empty trailer.
I have the same trailer and I pull a 50 size excavator all over western Washington. Aftermarket brake controller will solve your problem.
Just FYI , you have to Burnish the Brakes before they work properly.
Drum brakes have a Break in period.
Yep. I did that later. Working good now. Thanks
LOOK AT 5:28 IN THE VIDEO!!!
Your Ram is the problem, you have your factory controller set to “light electric”, it should be set to “heavy electric” for the brakes to work properly. Your Ram has the settings for heavy electric 👍🏻
Thank you for pointing that out. I have been working through some rookie mistakes with my new heavy duty trailer.
@@FlanaganHomestead No worries, it’s better to learn than never know what’s actually wrong.
Great trailer btw. 👍🏻
I had the same thing happen. Different Brand. Not auto adjust. 3/4 brakes not even close adjustment wise
I noticed the dash of your truck shows “light electric”. I tow a heavy camper with my Ram and had what I thought were braking issues with it, turns out I was using the “light electric” and needed to be using the “heavy electric” setting for that weight of trailer. I searched UA-cam and found some videos on this with the Ram factory brake controllers. May be something to look at as well.
Thank you. I will look into that.
I once ran into another brand of dump trailer, the company bought three of them. All three had brake assemblies installed backwards. Free backing surge brakes, so they had almost zero braking.
Ouch, that’s really dangerous.
Perhaps you should change 'Ironbull' to 'Dexter Axle' in your title to be fair as it currently seems like bad press to the Ironbull brand while it's the Dexter axle your not satisfied with. After watching 6 minutes of video figuring there was more, that was the only thing mentioned. Typically most axles will have a short break in period to burnish in, I've seen it from a few miles to 100 miles or more to reach optimal clearance for the magnet and drums/pads to seat. Everything nowadays is self adjusting pretty much, 7000# axles down. Title seems a bit like click bait. For what it's worth, currently there are really only 2 sizeable axle manufacturers that probably represent 90% or more of the industry - Dexter (purchased damn near everyone in the last 7-8 years from Rockwell, Alko, Axis, Tie Down, and others) and Lippert. I believe you'll find Dexter to be a slight bit more common on open trailers - utility/dump/enclosed, etc., while Lippert is far more common on RV's - largely because they build the majority of RV chassis's (if you want the chassis, you take the whole chassis). Dexter, the axle your unhappy with, is found on at least half the major brands in the industry including Carry On (cheap utilities at all the big box stores), Big Tex (#1 by volume), PJ (#2), Load Trail/Ironbull (both roughly #3/4), etc. If you don't like Dexter axles, don't buy from any of the largest manufacturers! Lippert has long been a close partner to several top 10's including Sure Trac (Novae) and many of their brands, Lamar uses Lippert for the last 2-3 years, Diamond C for a few years and had led the charge on Lippert's higher capacity axles, and a growing list of other open brands. Wait until you have to buy replacement parts for your Dexter axle! If you buy OEM parts, I see another video about price gouging to follow. Since they acquired everyone that makes axles, and got bought out and formed DexKo, and now control the bulk of the retail parts supply chain (bought Redneck Trailer Supply, TexTrail, among others), their prices have gone absolutely insane the last 2-3 years. We have Dexter lifers partly to thank for this (some won't buy an axle or parts that don't say Dexter, some manufacturers were historically compelled to buy their overpriced stuff no matter the price).
Thank you for your educated response. As I learned more about the situation I posted follow up videos talking about the burnishing of brakes and the great improvement after intentionally driving for the purpose of burnishing. Also took accountability for my lack of knowledge on the need to burnish. I still feel any trailer manufacurer should not sale the trailer until the brakes are ready to slow/stop the vehicle. I contacted the salesman that sold me the trailer recently. I told him how I watched other peoples videos how to burnish brakes. I did the proces and had a huge improvement 20 minutes later. I suggested to him that he tell all his customers about the process. If the manufacturer doesnt have them ready the dealer should inform new owners of the value of this process. He thanked me, said he would and that he had been getting consistent complaints about the brakes from other customers.
I want a 16ft trailer and these look well made compared to others around here. I want to start moving soil and trash so for sure will have to check brakes. I am not sure if my F250 has a controller but my 3500hd does. I haven't used a trailer on either truck but I want a dump now.
Dump trailers are amazing. Love unloading dirt and lately firewood with the trailer.
I just bought my dump last Tuesday I’ve tested a few times still not working.
i have had something similar happen to me. one locks up even on a extremely low gain. first year of owning it.
I have a sure-trac 12k dump the brakes stop my truck with a load no problem those brakes need to be redone
You are obviously inexperienced
Ha! I had an experience VERY similar to this, brand new trailer too, but different manufacturer. So my trailer, brand new, 0 miles on it (when I say zero miles, I mean that the trailer wasn't even towed to a dealer, I got my trailer directly from the manufacturing plant), and it left a bad taste in my mouth when I saw the sales rep run out and tighten all the lug nuts with a cordless impact wrench. That's not the way it's done, the proper way is to use a torque wrench. He ended up damaging at least one lug on all four wheels. Anyways, first thing I test were the brakes, and all was good. I get home, and I can feel that the trailer's brakes are no longer contributing. I needed to pull the hubs off anyways to get to the lugs, and when I pull the hubs off, the brakes on all four wheels were soaked in axle grease. Because of the grease, with the trailer on jacks, I could pull the emergency cable, and still turn the wheels with my bare hands. What happened was, the axles (Dexter Axles), the hubs and bearings are supposed to be pumped with grease slowly, very slowly, by hand, while rotating the wheels. Whoever pumped in the grease did it in a hurry, probably with an electric grease gun, and blew out the rear seal on all four wheels and pumped the grease into the brakes. So I used 4 cans of brake cleaner, 2 rolls of paper towels, that was about 2 years ago, brakes works great still. So the manufacturer of my trailer used high quality parts, but assembled the trailer in haste and caused me to lose my brakes in a matter of miles.
Glad you didn't have an accident. A company can have good parts and design but if one person in the chain doesn't do their job right you have a mess. Sorry you had to go through so much to fix it, but glad it is working now.
Electric brakes aren't worth a Damn !
A few things, surprised you bought a trailer that is a bumper pull, considering you want to move around your 8k-10k lbs excavator, I would have opted for the gooseneck personally as it distributes the weight better to your truck. One thing, when you load your excavator or anything else, you want to make sure the load is balanced and for the excavator, make sure it's center is over those wheels. Too far forward and your putting too much tongue weight on your truck, too far back and you'll experience some fish tailing and it's really dangerous. Be safe! Anyone driving with a trailer should be testing those brakes each and every time you hook up the trailer, whether you have a load or not and especially if you have a load you're towing. Always be safe! Are you sure you're setting in your truck is set correctly for the stopping/braking, I have a GMC and I think mine was anywhere from -.5 to -1.5 so please check your manuals for the proper settings there to ensure the truck will also be able to handle braking with the trailer efficiently! Thanks
This is a good advice. I have seen videos with the scary results of the excavator weight being too far back. The fish tailing then tipping over is alarming.
On the other side of the spectrum make sure you turn that gain way down when towing an empty trailer. More so for lighter equipment trailers as if you break hard with the gain up on an empty trailer you could bald spot those tires. Not fun… 7.5 gain… I don’t run anywhere near that.
Thank you. Good point
Whenever you hook up a trailer you have a game switch on your trailer brake controller grab it and hold it and it will apply all of the brake pressure can on the trailer your truck should not move and drive and you should build two slide the trailer tires that's one way to know your trailer brakes are working I work at a company in your post to do this every time you hung up to a trailer to make sure your brakes work
When I first bought it I did the procedure you are talking about and it didn’t even slow a idling truck. I burnished the brakes now if I grab the brake controller when driving I get smoking tires because they are locking up.
it would have been bad of he had a lot of dirt in the trailer or a lot of wood and the brakes not workin that would have been a bad day glad it's been fixed
Had the same thought. That extra weight would have just shoved me into traffic
Nice thumbnail
really is, its what gave his video some light
Not just exclusive to iron bowl. This is to every trailer that has brakes just like your vehicle. When you change the brakes, you need to bed them in, you need to seat them get them nice and hot so it’s nothing of your fault all the manufacturers, it may be the sales person because they should know and should’ve been trained, to let the customer know hey, you need to bed the brakes in you need to do this certain procedure, diamond has a video on this Jacob does an excellent job of explaining what and how the procedure is it’s nothing to do with the manufacture of the trailer is this a simple fact that sales people are not telling customers what they need to do to properly have brakes at work, just like when you buy a new car off the lot they never tell you to buy the brakes in they should, but they don’t, appreciate the video hope this helps you and you’ve got it figured out by now, I just came across your video. I’m actually in the market for a equipment trailer and doing some research on iron Bull, I think they have a really good price point at a good quality, DC would be my first choice, but they are more than double the price.
An attendant also, I would recommend if you have a three-quarter ton or bigger to use your engine, brake/turbo brake. It helps immensely you’re not using your brakes on your truck using the compression of the engine, I use mine all the time pulling trailers, no matter what size length or weightempty awful, I’ll leave mine on full engine brake, but you can also set it on auto
Thanks for input. Yes I am much wiser now. If buying a new trailer I will be ready to work the brakes myself
electric brakes are not like mechanical. they are designed to help stop the weight not do all of the stopping power. it is advisable to test the brakes on any trailer before going down the road. it is advisable to do this test on any electric brake trailer everytime you use it.
good advice
@@FlanaganHomestead I am thinking about getting an IronBull triple axle 21k dump trailer gooseneck style. that way I can haul several yards of heavy material. any thoughts? I have heard the tires wear quicker but I think that is a fair trade off.
@@stevenreeves4766 that’s a big trailer. How many yards of material do you plan to haul. If I get 4 yds of gravel it weighs about as much as hauling my mini excavator. The trailer can handle more but I need a heavier duty truck to handle more. How big of a truck do you have.
Also, PLEASE read the manual to your trailer brake controller. That would have never happend if you followed the instructions in the manual.
I bought the same trailer in 16 foot. Mine locks the brakes up when I hit good bumps in the road, the lights quit working a few months in, the axles aren't mounted square so one tire goes bald every 600 miles, and they forgot to finish welding the spreader gate on all the way so it bent and almost fell off the first time I used it. I think someone had a bad day at work when mine came off the line. I'm trying to deal with the warranty but they dont make it easy.
Just so everyone knows. Brakes of all need to be broken in including new trailer brakes. The brakes will work much better as they brake in.
Read the manual. Go over the breakin procedure, it is required on ALL new trailers. Every trailer axle, every brand.
i have this exact same trailer and i'm having charging problems with mine. How long does it take to charge your battery from dead to fully charged?
I have not run mine completely dead yet so I cannot answer that specifically. I have another dump trailer used more often and I ran that battery dead. I charged overnight and still could take more charge.
Can't speak directly to this trailer, but I know in camp trailer world it's not expected for a truck to charge the trailer batteries much while driving(unless it's a several hour trip) . The "charge wire" on a 7 way connector is small and carries minimal current(probably less than 10 amps). With that kind of current it would take quite a while to charge a dead battery. Many folks will install a separate dc to dc battery charger which can put out upwards of 60 amps to charge those secondary batteries if it's a real issue/ concern, or install a battery charger to plug in while not in use.
@@jvilhauer I agree. My short trips don’t add much charge. If battery is going low I will leave a charger on overnight
I just bought the baby bull and can't get it to fully charged after all day charging from an extension cord running to a 120 volt outlet. There must be a problem somewhere
@@dohertyslateroofing the battery must be bad or the charger not working correctly. Charger hooked up to a battery all day should be ready to roll
Thanks for this! I am buying a new trailer and probably wouldn’t have thought about this
what's the tongue weight on that trailer?
It would help if you had a dully 1 ton for pulling weight.
Try a red Arc brake controller.from E trailer
OMG why are there so many dumb people in the world? WTF! Test your brakes before driving off the dealership lot, and test your brakes before every use! For those with room temp IQs and still haven't figured this out, this is how you do it 1) Get someone to help you check all your trailer lights 2) Set your brake controller on max braking 3) Drive slowly and press your brake pedal. You should feel the trailer brakes grab. If the trailer is light, the tires may actually lock and skid, so be careful about how hard you press the brakes 4) Adjust your brake controller to the point where the trailer tires don't lock up with full pressure. This will give your best stopping distance.
Apologies to all the farmers and professionals who have known this procedure since they were 12 years old.
Why did you not test the brakes when you first got out on the road? THIS IS YOUR FAULT!!!!
I understand your point of view. I made a rookie mistake. I made the video to help warn others looking to buy. If you talk to the sales people at the trailer dealership no one is checking their brakes when they first buy and pull out. They are assuming a new vehicle comes in working order. Most people are monitoring as they go home and return if there is a problem. Turns out my trailer brakes did next to nothing in the beginning. They should come burnished and ready to go. But yes it is my responsibility to check in low traffic areas before getting out in traffic.
"I don't want to bad mouth a company", as you repeatedly bad