Awesome video, mate! Long time subscriber/follower, I cant beleive how many times you've saved my ass this far with your videos. Im currently in the process of restoring my 300CE-24 and I'm about to install the immobilizer but Im hesitant as to where it would be better to tap into the starter cable/ignition. I really don't want to dissassemble everything to get to the ignition switch and mess with the switch. Is there a better location closer to the floor where the harness can be spliced? Any tip will be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work and thanks in advance!!!
I've installed my immobilizer underneath the rear seat, as there's plenty of space near the fuel pump passage through the floor. I've made the interruption to the pump at this point too. Another point is there is already power supply available to the central lock vacuum device. I've enlarged the antennae cable to improve the signal range.
@@vmlelectronics Vini, thank you for your comment! I thought about going that route, but I was more inclined to doing so with the starter, since this unit also has a remote start feature. I believe there should be a plug next to the firewall in the drivers footwell where I should be able to intercept the necesarry wires, but I have yet to find it... :(
Sanid Džanan I’m not aware of it being repairable - I was of the opinion it must be replaced when fails. In Ny case I don’t have a spare to sacrifice. They should be being saved from scrap cars as eventually they wont be available new anymore.
I’m thinking just how to disassemble front cover and switch light. On my w201 working fine but light it’s broken and I’m worried that I will do more damage when i disassemble it! Im notice big screw same thing on air vents switches,it’s safer do just pulling out?
you need to test that the EZL is working. It will do nothing if the crank position sensor is dead, but it also fails itself. The condition of the ignition components is critical to a long lived EZL. If they are neglected and left in poor condition it will die, permanently.
My w210 had its vacuum pump and actuators all ripped out and instead it got shitty actuators and a shitty third party alarm installed. Why? I dont know. Haven't been able to fix it yet.
@@MMWA-DAVE The strangest part is that the original remote control still works, it rolls up and down the windows remotely, so the CLS should work aswel... So dumb
@@MMWA-DAVE Awesome video, mate! Long time subscriber/follower, I cant beleive how many times you've saved my ass this far with your videos. Im currently in the process of restoring my 300CE-24 and I'm about to install the immobilizer but Im hesitant as to where it would be better to tap into the starter cable/ignition. I really don't want to dissassemble everything to get to the ignition switch and mess with the switch. Can you think of a better location closer to the floor where the harness can be spliced/intercepted? I'm looking to modifying as little as possible and making everything reversible should the time come, plus doing everything extremelly carefully using triple heatwrap, soldering all joints, everything! Any tip will be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work and thanks in advance!!!
@@brucedemuro the most repairable way possible would be to desolder the factory wiring at the ignition switch and connect the immobilizer between the 2 critical circuits there and the existing pins in the plug. I know its not what you wanted to hear but i really hate the idea of cutting the factory wiring like was done in my 124 by previous installers. The central locking is best to access in either left or right cable trays in the footwells but cutting the wiring is required unfortunately, though its easily repaired in future.
@@MMWA-DAVE Yup, exactly what I thought, if there was no other option my idea was to take apart the ignition switch, desolder and wire it up from there. I had an old mb technician telling me that I also might be able to wire it up and intercept the ignition harness under the fuse box, which sounds like an easier location to work at and return to original state requiring far less disassembly in the future, only challenge would be to route the wires back to the cabin from the fusebox… I’m gonna explore and see what I find under the fusebox, If I see a clear path there, that *might* be the ticket… Thanks again mate, really appreciate you taking the time to write back. Keep up the awesome work, stay safe and I’ll let you know how it goes. Best, B
Watching those butchered cables fixed properly is like a therapy.
Did my w124 central lock-ing over the weekend. Great job!
Awesome video, mate! Long time subscriber/follower, I cant beleive how many times you've saved my ass this far with your videos. Im currently in the process of restoring my 300CE-24 and I'm about to install the immobilizer but Im hesitant as to where it would be better to tap into the starter cable/ignition. I really don't want to dissassemble everything to get to the ignition switch and mess with the switch. Is there a better location closer to the floor where the harness can be spliced? Any tip will be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work and thanks in advance!!!
I've installed my immobilizer underneath the rear seat, as there's plenty of space near the fuel pump passage through the floor. I've made the interruption to the pump at this point too. Another point is there is already power supply available to the central lock vacuum device. I've enlarged the antennae cable to improve the signal range.
@@vmlelectronics Vini, thank you for your comment! I thought about going that route, but I was more inclined to doing so with the starter, since this unit also has a remote start feature. I believe there should be a plug next to the firewall in the drivers footwell where I should be able to intercept the necesarry wires, but I have yet to find it... :(
@MMWA any tips regarding this? Thanks in advance mate!
How to disassemble light switch you must to do demonstration I can not find any other video! Nice job on electronic fix.
Sanid Džanan I’m not aware of it being repairable - I was of the opinion it must be replaced when fails. In Ny case I don’t have a spare to sacrifice. They should be being saved from scrap cars as eventually they wont be available new anymore.
I’m thinking just how to disassemble front cover and switch light. On my w201 working fine but light it’s broken and I’m worried that I will do more damage when i disassemble it! Im notice big screw same thing on air vents switches,it’s safer do just pulling out?
@@dayuntoday just pull the knob and it will come to you.
Sir, I want to ask a question, I have a problem with the W124 type 300e car, the fire won't come out of the coil.
you need to test that the EZL is working. It will do nothing if the crank position sensor is dead, but it also fails itself. The condition of the ignition components is critical to a long lived EZL. If they are neglected and left in poor condition it will die, permanently.
My w210 had its vacuum pump and actuators all ripped out and instead it got shitty actuators and a shitty third party alarm installed. Why? I dont know. Haven't been able to fix it yet.
Nitro oh my god this would give me nightmares. I don’t understand why some people do such silly things. Its all very repairable
@@MMWA-DAVE The strangest part is that the original remote control still works, it rolls up and down the windows remotely, so the CLS should work aswel... So dumb
@@MMWA-DAVE Awesome video, mate! Long time subscriber/follower, I cant beleive how many times you've saved my ass this far with your videos. Im currently in the process of restoring my 300CE-24 and I'm about to install the immobilizer but Im hesitant as to where it would be better to tap into the starter cable/ignition. I really don't want to dissassemble everything to get to the ignition switch and mess with the switch. Can you think of a better location closer to the floor where the harness can be spliced/intercepted? I'm looking to modifying as little as possible and making everything reversible should the time come, plus doing everything extremelly carefully using triple heatwrap, soldering all joints, everything! Any tip will be greatly appreciated! Keep up the good work and thanks in advance!!!
@@brucedemuro the most repairable way possible would be to desolder the factory wiring at the ignition switch and connect the immobilizer between the 2 critical circuits there and the existing pins in the plug. I know its not what you wanted to hear but i really hate the idea of cutting the factory wiring like was done in my 124 by previous installers. The central locking is best to access in either left or right cable trays in the footwells but cutting the wiring is required unfortunately, though its easily repaired in future.
@@MMWA-DAVE Yup, exactly what I thought, if there was no other option my idea was to take apart the ignition switch, desolder and wire it up from there. I had an old mb technician telling me that I also might be able to wire it up and intercept the ignition harness under the fuse box, which sounds like an easier location to work at and return to original state requiring far less disassembly in the future, only challenge would be to route the wires back to the cabin from the fusebox… I’m gonna explore and see what I find under the fusebox, If I see a clear path there, that *might* be the ticket…
Thanks again mate, really appreciate you taking the time to write back. Keep up the awesome work, stay safe and I’ll let you know how it goes.
Best,
B
can you close the windows with this remote ?
and also is the remote fail, can you still turn on the engine ?
Why on earth Facebook allowed you to publish this?