I think I got very lucky with my experience with slide. I bought a 20 pack of film off a woman for $15. Turns out it was a 20 pack of Velvia, which was refrigerated for years. Then I went to my local lab, and they even developed slide film!
Amazing! I used to manage a camera store & pros used to buy slide film by the “brick” which is the term for a 20 roll pack. It was maybe $8 a roll at that amount. You got an amazing deal…even in yesterday’s standards.
I’m still pretty shocked Kodak actually was able to successfully bring back Ektachrome... but man, does that Super 8 Ektachrome look nice. Can’t wait to shoot a roll of 35mm Ektachrome on my grandfather’s old Canon AE-1 he passed on to me
I've been shooting slide film since I was "your age", that's way, way back in the 1960's! Your absolutely right about needing your exposure to be correct. I find them pretty tolerant of, say..... a half an F-stop either way. Much more and your "mistake" is clearly visible to all. But, even with multiple 36-exposure rolls, I would only very rarely get an unusable image. If the "Photographer" is paying attention, and actually does his JOB, you have no problems at all.
Can you use the light meeting reading inside the camera (I’m using a Nikon F3) in aperture priority to get the right reading for slide film. Or do you have to over/under expose the reading to get the slides to get the exposure right?
I’ve found that the new Ektachrome was about $15-17.00 per roll, but processing and mounting was only $10.00, as opposed to negative developing and a set of prints was $15-16.00. I love looking at and projecting slides! Thanks
I shoot a ton of E6, it's basically the same price as C41 in the case of shooting 120 film and home developing. There is but a slight premium on a film like Provia compared to Ektar or Portra, the E6 chemistry is also a little more expensive but if you do it at home it's very manageable. The easier scanning is worth a lot too for me :)
@@stevek8829 when you scan a slide, you can colour match it to how the slide itself appears. with negs you can't do that, you also need to invert it which without something like NLP is tough to do well.
@@SPTSuperSprinter156 you have color correction and contour adjustments available when scanning negatives, just the same as positives. Calibrations of screen, printer and scanner are also done scanning both mediums. Why say such a thing?
Awesome video. Love your passion. I only shoot positive/E6/slide film now due to the inconsistency with negative film from my lab (prints). I use a hand held light meter most of the time and prefer the colors of positive film. This was the standard for magazine submissions looking for the highest quality. Also for stock photography back in the day. I'm shooting mostly Medium Format now. Keep up the great work, well done.
Wow this was a super useful video! I've been researching getting into film and my goal was to end up with film slides but I had no idea reversal film was so niche compared to negative, can't wait to dive deeper into this.
Great video. I remember the plethora of varieties that used to be available. E100 came in vivid, vivid saturated, and saturated warm. And there were so many other options. The photography store that I managed had a refrigerator full of pro films in 4x5, 120, 220, and 35mm. Many pros bought by the pro pack (5 rolls) or by the brick (20 rolls). They also wanted the same emulsion for their shoot. Ah, the glory days of film.
When Kodachrome was available, you had exactly two (amateur) choices: Kodachrome II/25 (ASA 25) or Kodachrome-X/64 (ASA 64). These films required exact exposure, with slight (E.I. 32/E.I. 80) underexposure options. Slide films in the days of the Canon F-1 ranged from ASA 50-160, from Agfacolor CT-18 to Anscochrome to Ektachrome and the "new kids," Fujichrome and Sakurachrome. Russian and Italian slide films could also be found with difficulty. Tungsten balanced Kodachrome 40 (KPA) and Anscochrome T100 were also available, on special order. By the way, Ektachrome 100 is a recent development; back in the 1960's it was EKtachrome-X/64 or High Speed Ektachrome (ASA 160).
I´ve brought two rolls of PROVIA but I ain´t shoot yet and your informations helped me to know what I should know to do it the right way. Thanks and regards from Brazil.
Way way back in the dark ages, when I shot E6 or Kodachrome with my Canon AE-1, good exposure was hit or miss, so I bracketed at least -1,0,+1. Then I borrowed my cousin's Olympus OM-4T because I was intrigued by the multi-spot metering and I nailed every exposure - and that saved $$$, time, and effort. I saved up and bought a 4T of my own.
Thanks Noa. A great job in this video (like in all others). You have compressed near all to know about colour negatives vs. slides. When somebody asked me about it I always forgot something to explain, now I have a great reference or a direct link for those that understand English. Has hecho un gran trabajo en este vídeo ( al igual que en todos los otros). Has comprimido en un vídeo casi todo lo que hay que saber sobre negativos color versus diapositivas. Cuando me preguntaban sobre esto siempre me olvidaba de explicar algo, ahora tengo una gran referencia para no olvidar algún detalle o directamente pasar el enlace a los que entienden el inglés.
shot my first ektachrome last week got the scans few days ago. But I got the film mounted by the lab and my god these positive slides are beautiful. I have another roll and 3 more on the way. Its just they are little bit pricy lol
It’s a good thing Ektachrome came back when it did, fast forward to now, it doesn’t look like any Fujichrome films have been in stock for a while. So we can thank Kodak for bringing back a slide film
I love my slide film. I got a Nikon camera, I like to take photographs. Kodachrome gives us those nice bright colors, gives us those greens of summer. Makes you think all the world's a sunny day. You said it though, exposure is key. Nikon FA made slide film a snap for the home user w/ Matrix metering & TTL flash. Then F4 took it to the nect level, Matrix balanced TTL fill flash @ 1/250.
Slides are the ultimate in organic photography in modern times. As good as it can get for now. More work ... but it’s pure satisfaction when you finished developing them!
Awesome Video! Been shooting on film for a couple,of months now and still have tons of expired slide films from my father. Didn‘t know how they actually work and what’s the difference to negative film. Your explanation is super on point and well taught. Thanks man!
Maco now produces under different names what was Agfa Rsx II 200. You can find it under the name Rollei CR 200 and lomography also has a rebranded version of this one. Colors are kinda desaturated and a large part of the color gamut is dragged towards a greenish hue. It's beautiful but not for every situation.
Back when Kodachrome was "cheap", I used to bracket my images on an AE-1 Canon. So, one of the three came out great, and I used to save the mounts on the others and toss the photo. That's when you could afford to experiment. Now, not so much, although in theory, bracketing would still work. What do you think?
Damn I've never tried slide film before, and always stayed away from it because I guess I thought it had worse photo quality. Thanks to your video and finding out my local film lab develops E-6, I'm definitely gonna go pick some up and try it out! Thanks!!
Bravo👍👍. Excellent video. I suggest that you produce another video on how to examine the slides in a light box, using an appropriate loupe, and sort your slides for projecting, or scanning and printing.. that would be great. Thank you again for what your doing for the community of film photography Lovers. Take care..
Back in the day(not too long ago) Most publications such as books, magazines, billboards not to mention museums, only accepted slides as their source. If you look at an old National Geographic magazine you might think the pictures were taken with a digital camera. Slide film had less grain, although that can be attributed to the low ISO on most slide film. To make prints out of slides for publication was and exacting 3 color process that required a lot of skill. There were also home kits such as Cibachrome and R300 that made it possible for anyone with a darkroom to process prints at home, but the chemicals and papers for those processes have gone extinct, never to comeback. Digital made sure of that ... I'm thinking about getting an old Kodak carousel projector and a silver-screen myself, so I can view my slides like they were meant to be viewed(like you said). In my opinion, no other medium beats that.
I used to develop GAF slide film (among other types of film).. It was in the 70s. It was a multi process, very tight temperature controlled process. I get the E6. I am sure, if I do this, If will go that way. I also have two 16mm projectors and slide projectors. . I'm on the hunt for 16mm cameras. I love to do it again. Thank for this video! 'Funny' thing was, a family member passed and she was a big time photographer. I was her favorite and I was looking forward to (considering the situation) getting her digital (high end) cameras. Somebody (neighbor we think) beat me to it. I did get a bunch of older, high end 35 mm film cameras with lenses to die for. Retired now so time to build a darkroom again. I also have an enlarger!
This is a truly terrific video and channel. All your stuff is great and informative without being UA-cam-annoying. In this video you mention that you scanned your grandpa's slide collection. I'm doing the same with my dad's old slides from the 70s and 80s. I'm through about 1000 scans using an Epson v850 flatbed. I'm curious if you have any good lessons learned on that whole process. For me it was all about color and exposure correction. He gets better as time progresses, but some of his stuff is just under or over-exposed. The color balance is also all over the place since he's switching from indoor to outdoor on the same roll. I'm spending about 1-2 minutes per slide processing and Lightroom helps, but I'd love to hear if you have any good tips you've learned to get rid of some of the color casts. I'm also interested in hearing your philosophy on trying to maintain the integrity of the film stock's look. I can mess with the colors and make it look more pleasing and modern, but that also destroys some of the allure of film having a particular look.
Topic for the future PLEASE - best way to digitize your slide collection at the highest possible resolution. Consumer-grade solutions aren't making the grade at all. How did you do yours?
Why isn't high iso slide film not produced anymore? Provia 400x and Ektachrome 320 seemed like really good options at the time. Does it have to with film chemicals and their latitude just being difficult to produce at a massive scale?
@@GB-ez6ge Tungsten film (as a negative) is still used widely in motion picture. It is an exaggeration to say there are no more tungsten lights in use.
Being of the age group that experienced kodacrome 64, I wish, like many photographs the world over would hope and pray that kodak would reintroduced it or rather a film that would be equal to it because it did have a different chemical process to the standard slide E6 process. Ah those where the days when you could walk into your local Kodak supplier and buy a roll or two of what was the best 35mm film IMO shoot it then send it in the mail via a pre paid postage and processing envelope and a week to 10 days later get back your already cut and mounted slides, (I think unmounted and in strips of 6 was an option if I remember correctly) ready for viewing on a big screen or hand viewer for those of us who didn't have a projector. Come of it viewing unprinted images isn't a new digital thing lol.
I shoot colour transparency film mostly when using my 5x4 (4x5 in USA) and the image quality is second to non, B&W and colour neg too but slide is unbeatable, it can be a problem if the sun is out and contrast is hard so better to wait for that passing cloud, do a quick light reading and all should be good, like you say it is more specialist now hence the ridiculous price tag. Good to see film still alive and kicking, I have an EOS 6D but it is so inferior compared to 5x4 transparency film, great video.
Hey Noah, thanks for the video. I'm just curious but who is the band you captured on those FUJI negatives at the beginning of the video? Looks like it could be from a music video?
If your light meter and optics work correctly*, I think it should be at least acceptable. Just point the light meter on the brightest object on your image (or something in the middle). From my little experience with Provia 100F, small underexposures work better than small overexposures. Personally I'd be scared of putting anything better than Fomapan or ColorPlus 200 into point-and-shoot, but that's just me. * - I have used lens having a problem with aperture, which caused a lot of frames getting overexposed, one even completely blanked, that's why I mentioned it. Worth checking out before first color reversal roll as they don't forgive anything.
If you can't adjust the exposure, then you must consider the ambient lighting. I have sucessfully shot slides on 110 film on a pocket instamatic and on 120 film with an old Kodak Brownie. I mainly used Agfachrome slide film.
Noah, I am interested in knowing more about slide film, when projected on a clear plain wall with the curtains closed and the lights turned off, what aspect ratio are the photos displayed at
I live not so far away from a lab with E-6, so maybe I’ll give this a try! Then again, I’ve been told you can dev E-6 with C-41. You just need a B&W developer step and second exposure before you develop in C-41. So maybe not so bad.
Worth mentioning that in the UK Kodachrome was almost NEVER sold without Kodak processing included whdn bought.( after the abolition of retail price maintence the Gratispool company of Glasgow blught into the Kodak licence to process Kodachrome.They didnt do it for long! many different baths all at VERY exacting temperatures meant it was VERY difficult to keep under control.It was probably the best colour slide film on the market, but oh the difficulty in processing...!!!!!!
Awesome introduction to slide film! How big of an issue is dust on the film when projecting? Do dust particles "drown" in the light or are they annoyingly visible? I'm asking because I develop my own films and they don't always turn out as clean as they could, no matter how careful I am.
Do you know if ektachrome in 16/8mm has remjet on it? Real question, is home proceesing e100 at home going to yield decent results processing in the same chemicals for roll film. thanks
I've just come across some old slide film which I'm considering using. I usually use a point and shoot rather than anything which needs adjustments for aperture etc (generally, I use an Olympus AF-10). Would a point and shoot be too risky in terms of over/underexposing the slide film?
Hi, love the video! I recently bought a voigtlander bessa iii which is a medium format folding camera produced between 2008 and 2014, so pretty recent for a film camera. The guy who sold it to be gave me bag full of slide film such as provia and velvia. The camera has aperture priority. I was wondering if the limited latitude will allow me to use the camera's exposure meter or whether I should use an external one?
You can use the in camera light meter, if, big if, you know that your in camera meter is calibrated, and you know well how to expose your subject, with the different mode of metering (evaluative, partial, center weighted, spot metering). Best is to run some tests. Personally I use an external Spotmeter, and meter for the highlight when using slide film. I meter a white area where I want some details and texture, then I open up by 1 2/3 to 2 stops. Example: When metering the white area, my meter indicate 1/125 sec at f8. If I shoot at these settings, my white area will be middle gray. To make that area white, I open up by 2 stops, means I will shoot at 1/30 sec at f8. For Negative film it is the inverse. I meter a shadow area where I want to retain some details and texture. Lets say my meter indicate 1/60 sec at f8. If I shoot at these settings, this shadow area will be rendered also as mid gray So I need to close by 2 stops, therefore I will shoot at 1/225 sec at f8. Voila. The diynamic range of slide film like Velvia or Provia is about 4 1/2 to 5 stop maximum. If the diynamic range of your slide film exceeds the dynamicof your slide film, then three solutions: 1. You wait till the lighting conditions changes 2. You call it quit, and go have a beer and watch your foot ball game. 2. Tone down the highlight area with a Neutral Graduated Density filter, if you have the right one, if possible, as the separation between the sky and the darker foreground must be kind of linear, like the horizon line. It all depends on what you have in your background. The last resort would be to meter for the highlight, as stated above, and let the shadows fall where they fall, then recover the list details in the shadows in post-processing (adobe Lightroom or other software). Or, or, come back to e same location in another clement day and time..if you decide to call it quit, don't just pack up and leave. Wait a little bit, things can change, if not take some time to absorbe the scenery, relax, meditate, and think on how you're going to shoot that scenery another time. Doing so, even if you didn't had the shot in your film, but you already have it in your mind. Personally,I do a lot of homework before going out doing my landscape photography.. Don't waist film, doing bracketing, too expensive. Good luck with your film photography, and forget Digital. 😉😉😉😉, Just kidding..
Awesome look! I love the posters man. I screwed up two rolls of Ektachrome. One roll I only got six frames back as I shot in such low light that the emulsion didn’t trigger. Got some cool shots of the Florida beach though on the other frames. Definitely a challenging stock to shoot. As far as topics could you may go over Standard 8mm film and cameras a little bit more in detail?. I think you have covered it before but I’m interested to know more about shooting it as I have found a supplier (I think the only supplier) that manufactures standard 8mm and that company is Fomapan. I have a Bell and Howell Sundial (1954) standard 8 camera as well. Operates very similar to a spring loaded Bolex and came with a very bizarre light meter and an old school mail ad for Kodachrome. I’ll post it on my channel when I get time. Also, another topic idea...how to develop super 8 film at home would be a cool topic? . I recently bought two six packs of Dogfishhead Super Eight beer which also serves as a film developer. There’s a video the Eastman Kodak Museum did on it but they did not give any formulas or quantities?
Home developing Super 8 is something I would love to do in the future and stuff like that I what I want to work towards, but right now it’s all about getting some things to be able to do i well!
Hi @Analog Resurgence, Love the channel! I have a few canisters of 100 FT ROLL KODAK VERICOLOR SLIDE FILM C-41 but I have no idea what or how they are used... Have you ever used it? Or have any information about it? Thank you!
Kodak Vericolor is a color negative film, not a slide film. C41 is the color negative chemical process (slide film is a different process, usually E6). Vericolor is an older Kodak film and it’s likely from the 90s or older, you can find lots of info online for it. 100ft rolls are for use in a film bulk loader which you can use with reloadable 35mm film canisters in order to cut down small rolls to shoot. Get yourself a bulk loader and some reloadable canisters and you can turn the big roll into small ones!
@@suemontoya9753 Vericolor III was the film I shot a ton in the early 1990's. It was quite similar to modern Portra 160, although Portra has somewhat finer grain. Color palette is very similar. It is a bit more contrasty if compared to Portra 400. For a film that old I doubt in it being any more usable.
Hey man! I really love your content and it is really a shame that you dont have as much followers as you deserve. I would recommend changing your ligthing set-up a bit; maybe a three point or something that would give a bit of depth and contrast to your studio look. everything else looks pro (especially the animations and intro)
speaking of slide film, i recently "borrowed" a huge amount of old educational slides from my school, alongside a projector. the interesting thing here for me was that it wasn't slides, it was just slide film. a standard roll of slide film in a little cardboard/paper cylinder, that you just load onto a special type of projector (that i also happened to grab) that i can't really find a picture of online. It is a Liesegang fanti 300, but there were made many types of these apparently. So, the whole projector looks identical to this one: www.lyndrup.dk/ken/images/Liesegang%20Fanti%20300.jpg but instead it has the small rolls of film in front of the lens, like on this model: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/LiesegangNeoDiafant5_%281%29.JPG/800px-LiesegangNeoDiafant5_%281%29.JPG. We dated it to the early fifties (yes my school still has loads of that stuff) so i think it might originally could have been to reduce cost after/during the war. Anyway, i saw a series of slides about the Soviet Union, for shits and giggles, and on the film it said "Kodak Safety film, Ektacolor film". Now, i know the new colour reversal film from kodak is Ektachrome, and i know that the older is Kodachrome, but if the Ekta film is the re-release of Kodachrome, what is the difference then? And what is Ektacolour then? And what is safety film? I think it just means that it was one of the first to use that non-flammable base layer you talked about, but i could be wrong. Maybe this could be something for a new video, unless there is a really simple explanation?
I'm not too sure about the Ektacolor, but it does sound like they were projectors that didn't use mounts. Very interesting! Kodachrome and Ektachrome existed together and were two different films, but Kodachrome used a very different process and I plan to focus on it in the future! Ektachrome is something they were able to rerelease because it used the E6 process that still exists. The Kodachrome process however is extinct due to chemicals that are no longer manufactured. And Safety film was stuff that was less likely to catch fire like the nitrate film that was made back around that time!
@@AnalogResurgence Thank you very much, i was just confused since i had heard people talking about the re-release of Kodachrome, even though the nd result was not Kodachrome, but Ektachrome. The Ektacolour film however, is unbelievably red though. So red in fact i had to look really closely to find that it was not a monochrome stock with a red mask, but actually had slight bits of green and blue here and there. I found one of the pictures had a big sign with some clothes and stuff that i could not read since it was in russian, but the sign had the year 1965 on it, which i think is when the roll was produced, or at least shot. The red colour might be a result of bad storage, as this stock literally had the word colour in its name, but i don't know.
We used something like that in school. It was called “film strips” and came with a vinyl record. The record would narrate then there would be a beep where the teacher was supposed to advance to the next frame.
@@the_lomographer4047 Oh wow! Well, that explains a lot! I haven't been able to find any vinyl records, so i am guessing either a script or some kind of open reel tape?
Slide film has a wider dynamic range than negative film, but lower tolerance for incorrect exposure. If you take an analog densitometer and measure Dmax to Dmin of perfectly exposed slide film you can get up to 4.8. Colour negative has a range of about 3.0, with 0.3 being 1 stop.
I don't have any experience with that specific model, but it looks like it was also called the EOS 1000FN which might make doing research on it easier. Some sites like these will help you out: www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/eoscamera/EOS1000FnRebel2s/index.htm camera-wiki.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_1000N
To check, I can use slide film in a normal 35mm camera? Like if I have a Minolta X300, I can put in a roll of normal colour negative, then slide film, and it'll be fine? No other settings or things to change beyond ISO?
I love your new studio-ish look!
I think I got very lucky with my experience with slide.
I bought a 20 pack of film off a woman for $15. Turns out it was a 20 pack of Velvia, which was refrigerated for years.
Then I went to my local lab, and they even developed slide film!
You must have thought like a pirate that just found a chest of gold standing on the beach ;D
Groovy deal, mate.
DUDE!! That’s awesome!
Twenty freakin packs??
Amazing! I used to manage a camera store & pros used to buy slide film by the “brick” which is the term for a 20 roll pack. It was maybe $8 a roll at that amount. You got an amazing deal…even in yesterday’s standards.
As someone who's been trying to get deeper into film, this has been a lot of help!
I’m still pretty shocked Kodak actually was able to successfully bring back Ektachrome... but man, does that Super 8 Ektachrome look nice. Can’t wait to shoot a roll of 35mm Ektachrome on my grandfather’s old Canon AE-1 he passed on to me
Marty Jackson because the analog renaissance is growing. Now if only they would actually release the new camera they said they made 3 years ago lol.
@@practicalimagination0909 Yelp, at this point I’m trying to get a EOS 3 after buying a AE-1
i have the same camera you will be happy with it
Let me know. I've still got my AE-1 and I'm dying to try it out with Ektachrome. Thanks, and happy snapping!
I've been shooting slide film since I was "your age", that's way, way back in the 1960's!
Your absolutely right about needing your exposure to be correct. I find them pretty tolerant of, say..... a half an F-stop either way. Much more and your "mistake" is clearly visible to all.
But, even with multiple 36-exposure rolls, I would only very rarely get an unusable image. If the "Photographer" is paying attention, and actually does his JOB, you have no problems at all.
what aperture do you mainly shoot on if it is day time / sunny? and day time / overcast?
Can you use the light meeting reading inside the camera (I’m using a Nikon F3) in aperture priority to get the right reading for slide film. Or do you have to over/under expose the reading to get the slides to get the exposure right?
Used to bracket my shots because, well, you know. light meters.
I’ve found that the new Ektachrome was about $15-17.00 per roll, but processing and mounting was only $10.00, as opposed to negative developing and a set of prints was $15-16.00.
I love looking at and projecting slides!
Thanks
I shoot a ton of E6, it's basically the same price as C41 in the case of shooting 120 film and home developing. There is but a slight premium on a film like Provia compared to Ektar or Portra, the E6 chemistry is also a little more expensive but if you do it at home it's very manageable. The easier scanning is worth a lot too for me :)
I agree. I shot and developed slide 35mm and 120 roll film in the 1980's
I don't understand how it's easier than negative to scan. They scan the same to me.
E-6 prices have gone up so much recently its hard to buy in bulk but if you home develop you save soooo much money.
@@stevek8829 when you scan a slide, you can colour match it to how the slide itself appears. with negs you can't do that, you also need to invert it which without something like NLP is tough to do well.
@@SPTSuperSprinter156 you have color correction and contour adjustments available when scanning negatives, just the same as positives. Calibrations of screen, printer and scanner are also done scanning both mediums. Why say such a thing?
Looking at old family kodachrome slides with an ektagraphic projector that I salvaged from my grandparents' started my slide film obsession.
It's so touching to look at young guys that love and support the analog period, that is incredibly rich. Thx for this video. I've learnt a lot !
That's Awesome, THANKS!
More people need to shoot more film!
Awesome video. Love your passion. I only shoot positive/E6/slide film now due to the inconsistency with negative film from my lab (prints). I use a hand held light meter most of the time and prefer the colors of positive film. This was the standard for magazine submissions looking for the highest quality. Also for stock photography back in the day. I'm shooting mostly Medium Format now. Keep up the great work, well done.
Slide film has always been my favorite film type, I'd shoot Provia for every roll if I could afford it!
Slide film is the heart of photography IMO
only your intro animation deserves a million of views. keep up the heat man!
Wow this was a super useful video! I've been researching getting into film and my goal was to end up with film slides but I had no idea reversal film was so niche compared to negative, can't wait to dive deeper into this.
Great video. I remember the plethora of varieties that used to be available. E100 came in vivid, vivid saturated, and saturated warm. And there were so many other options. The photography store that I managed had a refrigerator full of pro films in 4x5, 120, 220, and 35mm. Many pros bought by the pro pack (5 rolls) or by the brick (20 rolls). They also wanted the same emulsion for their shoot. Ah, the glory days of film.
Love your channel! Thanks for the in depth rundown of Slide. Gonna grab some soon.
When Kodachrome was available, you had exactly two (amateur) choices: Kodachrome II/25 (ASA 25) or Kodachrome-X/64 (ASA 64). These films required exact exposure, with slight (E.I. 32/E.I. 80) underexposure options. Slide films in the days of the Canon F-1 ranged from ASA 50-160, from Agfacolor CT-18 to Anscochrome to Ektachrome and the "new kids," Fujichrome and Sakurachrome. Russian and Italian slide films could also be found with difficulty. Tungsten balanced Kodachrome 40 (KPA) and Anscochrome T100 were also available, on special order. By the way, Ektachrome 100 is a recent development; back in the 1960's it was EKtachrome-X/64 or High Speed Ektachrome (ASA 160).
I´ve brought two rolls of PROVIA but I ain´t shoot yet and your informations helped me to know what I should know to do it the right way. Thanks and regards from Brazil.
Using lubitel 166 and provia 100f 120 format. 6x6 slides looks amaising!
Way way back in the dark ages, when I shot E6 or Kodachrome with my Canon AE-1, good exposure was hit or miss, so I bracketed at least -1,0,+1. Then I borrowed my cousin's Olympus OM-4T because I was intrigued by the multi-spot metering and I nailed every exposure - and that saved $$$, time, and effort. I saved up and bought a 4T of my own.
I shot a couple of rolls of Provia 100F last summer and the results were simply gorgeous.
Thanks Noa.
A great job in this video (like in all others). You have compressed near all to know about colour negatives vs. slides. When somebody asked me about it I always forgot something to explain, now I have a great reference or a direct link for those that understand English.
Has hecho un gran trabajo en este vídeo ( al igual que en todos los otros). Has comprimido en un vídeo casi todo lo que hay que saber sobre negativos color versus diapositivas. Cuando me preguntaban sobre esto siempre me olvidaba de explicar algo, ahora tengo una gran referencia para no olvidar algún detalle o directamente pasar el enlace a los que entienden el inglés.
shot my first ektachrome last week got the scans few days ago. But I got the film mounted by the lab and my god these positive slides are beautiful. I have another roll and 3 more on the way. Its just they are little bit pricy lol
It’s a good thing Ektachrome came back when it did, fast forward to now, it doesn’t look like any Fujichrome films have been in stock for a while. So we can thank Kodak for bringing back a slide film
This is an excellent introduction. Thank you.
I like the astro-Not images shot on the NASA film stage. It transports me back to a time when things were much simpler.
Started out doing GAF slide film. 45 years ago. I still have a few. They have faded but that’s time and how I (didn’t ) keep them well
I love my slide film. I got a Nikon camera, I like to take photographs. Kodachrome gives us those nice bright colors, gives us those greens of summer. Makes you think all the world's a sunny day.
You said it though, exposure is key. Nikon FA made slide film a snap for the home user w/ Matrix metering & TTL flash. Then F4 took it to the nect level, Matrix balanced TTL fill flash @ 1/250.
Slides are the ultimate in organic photography in modern times. As good as it can get for now. More work ... but it’s pure satisfaction when you finished developing them!
Awesome Video! Been shooting on film for a couple,of months now and still have tons of expired slide films from my father. Didn‘t know how they actually work and what’s the difference to negative film. Your explanation is super on point and well taught. Thanks man!
Maco now produces under different names what was Agfa Rsx II 200. You can find it under the name Rollei CR 200 and lomography also has a rebranded version of this one. Colors are kinda desaturated and a large part of the color gamut is dragged towards a greenish hue. It's beautiful but not for every situation.
Back when Kodachrome was "cheap", I used to bracket my images on an AE-1 Canon. So, one of the three came out great, and I used to save the mounts on the others and toss the photo. That's when you could afford to experiment. Now, not so much, although in theory, bracketing would still work. What do you think?
having been 50+ years in the photo trade can I assure you that in the UK anyway...KODACHROME WAS NEVER EVER CHEAP !
Damn I've never tried slide film before, and always stayed away from it because I guess I thought it had worse photo quality. Thanks to your video and finding out my local film lab develops E-6, I'm definitely gonna go pick some up and try it out! Thanks!!
Bravo👍👍. Excellent video. I suggest that you produce another video on how to examine the slides in a light box, using an appropriate loupe, and sort your slides for projecting, or scanning and printing.. that would be great. Thank you again for what your doing for the community of film photography Lovers. Take care..
I suggest an incident light meter for photography. Works well when light matters - when clicking the shutter. Before the computer.
Back in the day(not too long ago) Most publications such as books, magazines, billboards not to mention museums, only accepted slides as their source. If you look at an old National Geographic magazine you might think the pictures were taken with a digital camera. Slide film had less grain, although that can be attributed to the low ISO on most slide film. To make prints out of slides for publication was and exacting 3 color process that required a lot of skill. There were also home kits such as Cibachrome and R300 that made it possible for anyone with a darkroom to process prints at home, but the chemicals and papers for those processes have gone extinct, never to comeback. Digital made sure of that ... I'm thinking about getting an old Kodak carousel projector and a silver-screen myself, so I can view my slides like they were meant to be viewed(like you said). In my opinion, no other medium beats that.
I used to develop GAF slide film (among other types of film).. It was in the 70s. It was a multi process, very tight temperature controlled process. I get the E6. I am sure, if I do this, If will go that way. I also have two 16mm projectors and slide projectors. . I'm on the hunt for 16mm cameras. I love to do it again. Thank for this video! 'Funny' thing was, a family member passed and she was a big time photographer. I was her favorite and I was looking forward to (considering the situation) getting her digital (high end) cameras. Somebody (neighbor we think) beat me to it. I did get a bunch of older, high end 35 mm film cameras with lenses to die for. Retired now so time to build a darkroom again. I also have an enlarger!
E6 is my weakness 👍
Thanks for this video. Very detailed and easy to understand.
Color reversal films might be the amazing thing it exists on film photography
thank you! after watching this video.. i've totally stuffed my exposure i just know it. scared to get them developed
Classic Ektachrome was always available with "push processing" which pushed the ASA (ISO) to 320 or 400, I don't recall which.
Awesome work, dude. Always learn a lot from your vids. Quickly becoming one of my fave film photography channels. Keep it up, bruv 💪💪
This is such a great video, thanks so much!
This is a truly terrific video and channel. All your stuff is great and informative without being UA-cam-annoying. In this video you mention that you scanned your grandpa's slide collection. I'm doing the same with my dad's old slides from the 70s and 80s. I'm through about 1000 scans using an Epson v850 flatbed. I'm curious if you have any good lessons learned on that whole process. For me it was all about color and exposure correction. He gets better as time progresses, but some of his stuff is just under or over-exposed. The color balance is also all over the place since he's switching from indoor to outdoor on the same roll. I'm spending about 1-2 minutes per slide processing and Lightroom helps, but I'd love to hear if you have any good tips you've learned to get rid of some of the color casts. I'm also interested in hearing your philosophy on trying to maintain the integrity of the film stock's look. I can mess with the colors and make it look more pleasing and modern, but that also destroys some of the allure of film having a particular look.
Thanks helpful video! Really looking to get into slide film sometime down the road.
You left out the best part of slide film--the jaw-droppingly gorgeous Cibrachrome prints! Maybe you can cover that in another video.
Wasn't Cibachrome discontinued 25 years ago?
Topic for the future PLEASE - best way to digitize your slide collection at the highest possible resolution. Consumer-grade solutions aren't making the grade at all. How did you do yours?
Why isn't high iso slide film not produced anymore? Provia 400x and Ektachrome 320 seemed like really good options at the time. Does it have to with film chemicals and their latitude just being difficult to produce at a massive scale?
No 320 because no more tungsten lights! 🙂
@@GB-ez6ge Tungsten film (as a negative) is still used widely in motion picture. It is an exaggeration to say there are no more tungsten lights in use.
@@b6983832 Hence the smiley indicating sarcasm 🙂
@@GB-ez6ge Got it!
Being of the age group that experienced kodacrome 64, I wish, like many photographs the world over would hope and pray that kodak would reintroduced it or rather a film that would be equal to it because it did have a different chemical process to the standard slide E6 process. Ah those where the days when you could walk into your local Kodak supplier and buy a roll or two of what was the best 35mm film IMO shoot it then send it in the mail via a pre paid postage and processing envelope and a week to 10 days later get back your already cut and mounted slides, (I think unmounted and in strips of 6 was an option if I remember correctly) ready for viewing on a big screen or hand viewer for those of us who didn't have a projector. Come of it viewing unprinted images isn't a new digital thing lol.
Nice! I love shooting slides on vacation.
I shoot colour transparency film mostly when using my 5x4 (4x5 in USA) and the image quality is second to non, B&W and colour neg too but slide is unbeatable, it can be a problem if the sun is out and contrast is hard so better to wait for that passing cloud, do a quick light reading and all should be good, like you say it is more specialist now hence the ridiculous price tag.
Good to see film still alive and kicking, I have an EOS 6D but it is so inferior compared to 5x4 transparency film, great video.
thank you your video has been so helpful
new favorite youtube channel
Really enjoyed your fascinating video… cheers matey
Hey Noah, thanks for the video. I'm just curious but who is the band you captured on those FUJI negatives at the beginning of the video? Looks like it could be from a music video?
Amazing buddy! great video.
Great job
I’m sure it’s been asked but can you use slide film reliably in a point and shoot? Or does it need the precision of exposing manually?
If your light meter and optics work correctly*, I think it should be at least acceptable. Just point the light meter on the brightest object on your image (or something in the middle). From my little experience with Provia 100F, small underexposures work better than small overexposures.
Personally I'd be scared of putting anything better than Fomapan or ColorPlus 200 into point-and-shoot, but that's just me.
* - I have used lens having a problem with aperture, which caused a lot of frames getting overexposed, one even completely blanked, that's why I mentioned it. Worth checking out before first color reversal roll as they don't forgive anything.
To be frank, not really. In ideal, overcast conditions it works, but with no manual exposure control, the smaller latitude can be a problem.
If you can't adjust the exposure, then you must consider the ambient lighting. I have sucessfully shot slides on 110 film on a pocket instamatic and on 120 film with an old Kodak Brownie. I mainly used Agfachrome slide film.
Very informative. Thanks!
Amazing content, thank you!
I haven't been able to find X-Pro slide film anywhere. Can you tell me where can I buy some?
Your editing is great
Thank you! Thats really helpful
Noah, I am interested in knowing more about slide film, when projected on a clear plain wall with the curtains closed and the lights turned off, what aspect ratio are the photos displayed at
35mm is 3:2.
Exactly the same as the picture area on the film.
I live not so far away from a lab with E-6, so maybe I’ll give this a try! Then again, I’ve been told you can dev E-6 with C-41. You just need a B&W developer step and second exposure before you develop in C-41. So maybe not so bad.
Worth mentioning that in the UK Kodachrome was almost NEVER sold without Kodak processing included whdn bought.( after the abolition of retail price maintence the Gratispool company of Glasgow blught into the Kodak licence to process Kodachrome.They didnt do it for long! many different baths all at VERY exacting temperatures meant it was VERY difficult to keep under control.It was probably the best colour slide film on the market, but oh the difficulty in processing...!!!!!!
Awesome introduction to slide film! How big of an issue is dust on the film when projecting? Do dust particles "drown" in the light or are they annoyingly visible? I'm asking because I develop my own films and they don't always turn out as clean as they could, no matter how careful I am.
Do you know if ektachrome in 16/8mm has remjet on it? Real question, is home proceesing e100 at home going to yield decent results processing in the same chemicals for roll film. thanks
Ektachrome has no remjet! You should be fine to do it using standard E6 developing kits at home!
Nothing else than KODACHROME !
Kodachrome sunsets, RIP
James. 😢
Love these videos man very helpful
Great video!
I've just come across some old slide film which I'm considering using. I usually use a point and shoot rather than anything which needs adjustments for aperture etc (generally, I use an Olympus AF-10). Would a point and shoot be too risky in terms of over/underexposing the slide film?
Just discovered your channel, you deserve way more subs..
great video bro! cheers from hollland
He's Canadian, huh? Thanks for all the helpful info!
Hi, love the video! I recently bought a voigtlander bessa iii which is a medium format folding camera produced between 2008 and 2014, so pretty recent for a film camera. The guy who sold it to be gave me bag full of slide film such as provia and velvia. The camera has aperture priority. I was wondering if the limited latitude will allow me to use the camera's exposure meter or whether I should use an external one?
You can use the in camera light meter, if, big if, you know that your in camera meter is calibrated, and you know well how to expose your subject, with the different mode of metering (evaluative, partial, center weighted, spot metering). Best is to run some tests. Personally I use an external Spotmeter, and meter for the highlight when using slide film. I meter a white area where I want some details and texture, then I open up by 1 2/3 to 2 stops. Example: When metering the white area, my meter indicate 1/125 sec at f8. If I shoot at these settings, my white area will be middle gray. To make that area white, I open up by 2 stops, means I will shoot at 1/30 sec at f8. For Negative film it is the inverse. I meter a shadow area where I want to retain some details and texture. Lets say my meter indicate 1/60 sec at f8. If I shoot at these settings, this shadow area will be rendered also as mid gray So I need to close by 2 stops, therefore I will shoot at 1/225 sec at f8. Voila. The diynamic range of slide film like Velvia or Provia is about 4 1/2 to 5 stop maximum. If the diynamic range of your slide film exceeds the dynamicof your slide film, then three solutions:
1. You wait till the lighting conditions changes
2. You call it quit, and go have a beer and watch your foot ball game.
2. Tone down the highlight area with a Neutral Graduated Density filter, if you have the right one, if possible, as the separation between the sky and the darker foreground must be kind of linear, like the horizon line. It all depends on what you have in your background.
The last resort would be to meter for the highlight, as stated above, and let the shadows fall where they fall, then recover the list details in the shadows in post-processing (adobe Lightroom or other software). Or, or, come back to e same location in another clement day and time..if you decide to call it quit, don't just pack up and leave. Wait a little bit, things can change, if not take some time to absorbe the scenery, relax, meditate, and think on how you're going to shoot that scenery another time. Doing so, even if you didn't had the shot in your film, but you already have it in your mind. Personally,I do a lot of homework before going out doing my landscape photography.. Don't waist film, doing bracketing, too expensive. Good luck with your film photography, and forget Digital. 😉😉😉😉, Just kidding..
Awesome look! I love the posters man. I screwed up two rolls of Ektachrome. One roll I only got six frames back as I shot in such low light that the emulsion didn’t trigger. Got some cool shots of the Florida beach though on the other frames. Definitely a challenging stock to shoot. As far as topics could you may go over Standard 8mm film and cameras a little bit more in detail?. I think you have covered it before but I’m interested to know more about shooting it as I have found a supplier (I think the only supplier) that manufactures standard 8mm and that company is Fomapan. I have a Bell and Howell Sundial (1954) standard 8 camera as well. Operates very similar to a spring loaded Bolex and came with a very bizarre light meter and an old school mail ad for Kodachrome. I’ll post it on my channel when I get time. Also, another topic idea...how to develop super 8 film at home would be a cool topic? . I recently bought two six packs of Dogfishhead Super Eight beer which also serves as a film developer. There’s a video the Eastman Kodak Museum did on it but they did not give any formulas or quantities?
Home developing Super 8 is something I would love to do in the future and stuff like that I what I want to work towards, but right now it’s all about getting some things to be able to do i well!
Which format of slide film is the best? 35mm, 6X6, 6X7 or 6X9 ?
did you do a video on how to best archive slide film? i am very keep to know how to best preserve it
Im doing the same thing with my grandpas collection but half of the photos are in metal casings any tips??
2:34 Oh, it's Ottawa~~
The kodak "disc" film is the same size as the kodak 110 film. The differences.....1 go straight, and the other go s around the "ferrous wheel".....
This is a great video
Yes. I need to know
Hi @Analog Resurgence,
Love the channel!
I have a few canisters of 100 FT ROLL KODAK VERICOLOR SLIDE FILM C-41 but I have no idea what or how they are used... Have you ever used it? Or have any information about it? Thank you!
Kodak Vericolor is a color negative film, not a slide film. C41 is the color negative chemical process (slide film is a different process, usually E6). Vericolor is an older Kodak film and it’s likely from the 90s or older, you can find lots of info online for it. 100ft rolls are for use in a film bulk loader which you can use with reloadable 35mm film canisters in order to cut down small rolls to shoot. Get yourself a bulk loader and some reloadable canisters and you can turn the big roll into small ones!
@@AnalogResurgence OMG! Thank you so much for this information! I have about ten of these canisters. I look forward to using them
@@suemontoya9753 Vericolor III was the film I shot a ton in the early 1990's. It was quite similar to modern Portra 160, although Portra has somewhat finer grain. Color palette is very similar. It is a bit more contrasty if compared to Portra 400. For a film that old I doubt in it being any more usable.
Spotted Majors Hill Park in Ottawa
i love slides!
Can you tell me what i need to make slide films from photographs?
Hey man! I really love your content and it is really a shame that you dont have as much followers as you deserve.
I would recommend changing your ligthing set-up a bit; maybe a three point or something that would give a bit of depth and contrast to your studio look.
everything else looks pro (especially the animations and intro)
Very informative video! Could you do one on shooting with expired slide films? =)
120mm Ektachrome is now available too
You mean 60 mm? The name of the format is 120, that is not a dimension. Just measure the weidth of the roll.
great content
speaking of slide film, i recently "borrowed" a huge amount of old educational slides from my school, alongside a projector. the interesting thing here for me was that it wasn't slides, it was just slide film. a standard roll of slide film in a little cardboard/paper cylinder, that you just load onto a special type of projector (that i also happened to grab) that i can't really find a picture of online. It is a Liesegang fanti 300, but there were made many types of these apparently. So, the whole projector looks identical to this one: www.lyndrup.dk/ken/images/Liesegang%20Fanti%20300.jpg but instead it has the small rolls of film in front of the lens, like on this model: upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/56/LiesegangNeoDiafant5_%281%29.JPG/800px-LiesegangNeoDiafant5_%281%29.JPG. We dated it to the early fifties (yes my school still has loads of that stuff) so i think it might originally could have been to reduce cost after/during the war. Anyway, i saw a series of slides about the Soviet Union, for shits and giggles, and on the film it said "Kodak Safety film, Ektacolor film". Now, i know the new colour reversal film from kodak is Ektachrome, and i know that the older is Kodachrome, but if the Ekta film is the re-release of Kodachrome, what is the difference then? And what is Ektacolour then? And what is safety film? I think it just means that it was one of the first to use that non-flammable base layer you talked about, but i could be wrong. Maybe this could be something for a new video, unless there is a really simple explanation?
I'm not too sure about the Ektacolor, but it does sound like they were projectors that didn't use mounts. Very interesting! Kodachrome and Ektachrome existed together and were two different films, but Kodachrome used a very different process and I plan to focus on it in the future! Ektachrome is something they were able to rerelease because it used the E6 process that still exists. The Kodachrome process however is extinct due to chemicals that are no longer manufactured. And Safety film was stuff that was less likely to catch fire like the nitrate film that was made back around that time!
@@AnalogResurgence Thank you very much, i was just confused since i had heard people talking about the re-release of Kodachrome, even though the nd result was not Kodachrome, but Ektachrome. The Ektacolour film however, is unbelievably red though. So red in fact i had to look really closely to find that it was not a monochrome stock with a red mask, but actually had slight bits of green and blue here and there. I found one of the pictures had a big sign with some clothes and stuff that i could not read since it was in russian, but the sign had the year 1965 on it, which i think is when the roll was produced, or at least shot. The red colour might be a result of bad storage, as this stock literally had the word colour in its name, but i don't know.
We used something like that in school. It was called “film strips” and came with a vinyl record. The record would narrate then there would be a beep where the teacher was supposed to advance to the next frame.
@@the_lomographer4047 Oh wow! Well, that explains a lot! I haven't been able to find any vinyl records, so i am guessing either a script or some kind of open reel tape?
Considering slide film has less dynamic range, how did Nasa get such great shots in the most harshest of lighting in the solar system?!
Slide film has a wider dynamic range than negative film, but lower tolerance for incorrect exposure.
If you take an analog densitometer and measure Dmax to Dmin of perfectly exposed slide film you can get up to 4.8. Colour negative has a range of about 3.0, with 0.3 being 1 stop.
Because it was shot in a studio.
Because astronauts are you know, amazingly smart at things.
Steve K yeaaaajaaaaaaahhh suree
@@nickfanzo woosh
Have you tried Freeprints. Is it a good printing service
keep up the work dudeski you wouldnt happen to be an expert on the canon rebel s 2 from 92
I don't have any experience with that specific model, but it looks like it was also called the EOS 1000FN which might make doing research on it easier. Some sites like these will help you out: www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/eoscamera/EOS1000FnRebel2s/index.htm
camera-wiki.org/wiki/Canon_EOS_1000N
To check, I can use slide film in a normal 35mm camera? Like if I have a Minolta X300, I can put in a roll of normal colour negative, then slide film, and it'll be fine? No other settings or things to change beyond ISO?
Yes!
@@AnalogResurgence Cool! Once I get get better, I'll have to get it a go. I'll have to find something nice to shoot too
Hey I need your help for a problem with my Polaroid? Where can I find you?
Is there a way to turn digital photos into slides?