I'm so pissed, why would you not show us how you disassembled you machine. Like people watch this to help them fix their machine. Very dumb edit choice.
@justinbouchard Or maybe he just wants to make sure he doesn't break anything that he can't see from the outside while taking it apart. I came to this video for the same reason of seeing how to take it apart to make sure I didn't break my machine on accident.
Since he was not help, here's how to take the top off: there's two Phillips screws under the flap on top. They are covered by plastic plugs. There are two more Phillips screws on the bottom front of the top section. Those also need to be removed. After removing those the top should come right off.
I really wish you would make a video about how you put on that steam wand. I started the process thinking I could use your current videos and realized you never really showed how you got into the machine to get to that part.
can you be more specific? I haven't watched any of my videos in a while and I also put on a different steam wand that is a cool touch one. do you mean how do you get the steam wand out? if that's what you mean you have to take the boiler apart because the mounting bracket that holds the steam wand is sandwiched between the top of the boiler and the frame of the machine
Hi Justin from uk, I have a Stilosa I bought new about 2 months ago, I ordered PID T7100 and a PT100 thermocouple from Ali express, which I now have, my question is about the thermocouple fitting on the boiler? Did you drill and tap the stainless steel boiler to fit the thermocouple? I don’t have Tap to do that. My Pt100 thermo couple ends with an M4 brass stud so I’m thinking maybe get hold of an M4 brass nut and Araldite that to boiler then carefully screw the M4 stud into it? A rough wiring diagram of your setup would be a great help! Brilliant video BTW 👍🏻Andy
thank you!! pid controls during both, i optimized it so it doesn't overshoot during extraction i had the pid for about a month or so then switched to the gaggiuino and modified the software to suit my needs :)
@@SangNguyen-bw8vh what do you mean by everything? there's wiring diagrams for the gaggiuino stuff If you give me about one week and maybe give me a reminder and I can try and make a short video showing how I have things wired up I'll more than likely just make a small basic diagram and explain it on a video I'm not sure if I'll have the energy to pull it apart and show everything
@@justinbouchard Oh Amazing! It's great to hear that😀. thank u so much bro. You don't know that I've tried looking for instructions on how to install PID but nobody telling about delonghi machine has even mentioned anything about it except finished pictures, text, diagram that I don't know how to do. I can't wait to see your next video🙏
@@SangNguyen-bw8vh i'll make something for you, it is easy but clear instructions are difficult to find basically, you add power to the pid, connect the thermostat to the pid, remove power connections from old thermostat and now your pid is controlling the temperature I have the settings for my pid in one of the comments here or in another video. If I don't post something in one week give me a comment to remind me :)
Couple of questions, one for you Justin, and one for anyone else who may have used an unpressurized 51mm basket. So to the first Q: Q1. I noted that you used a 48mm? IMS shower screen...did you need to do any modding/adjustments or did it just fit perfectly. I ask this as this model originally [unlike the ECP3420] comes with a smaller stock 41mm shower screen. Q2. I plan to use an unpressurized basket BUT without a bottomless portafilter; I plan to use the portafilter that comes with this EC230 unit and just take out the plastic fitting at the bottom. Has anyone done this, what is the largest basket depth/gram volume I can use, and are there any other cheaper options apart from the very expensive IMS baskets; I note some of the baskets have a rolled/rounded top edge [not a flat top edge as with the original baskets], and so wonder if this would create an issue when tightening the portafilter into the machine just before pulling a shot i.e. the extra space needed for the roll might damage the seal OR prevent the portafilter locking/rotating properly. Thanks in advance for all answers/contributions.
q1: I used literally the same screw the original screen is installed with :) it does work with original baskets as well :) q2: k, so I imagine the stock portafilter won't be deep enough to use with a different basket, but I could be wrong, this is just a guess based on memory. ims is the cheapest one I could find in 54mm I ordered from espresso shop UK, i'm in canada. Yes you're more than likely right about the rolled rim. I don't know if it's this video or not but I describe that I flatten it and trim it to make it fit. This also brings me to a point about q1 I didn't think of until now. You will not be able to fit a 54mm basket into the portafilter without reaming out the inside. I suppose it could be attempted with a burr bit on a drill, or if you had access to a milling machine then it could be done easily. But for me, cutting the bottom off which is relatively easy, was the best solution to remove material appropriately without damaging the portafilter using a file. Hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply; pity I no longer have access to a lathe as I could trim the internal diameter to fit; don't fancy the messing about so I will just buy a 51mm basket that isn't too deep either, that way I can just take out the plastic housing in the bottom without modifying the original. OK, I won't be bottonmless/see if the extraction is channeling but so be it. Just one last question/clarification, so if I don't enlarge the portafilter the original 51mm will still work with the upgraded IMS shower screen correct? Thanks. @@justinbouchard
hey! yes the ims shower screen does fit with the original portafilters! :) i made a "scace" device and used one of the old pressurized baskets to do this with and it fits just fine :) @@teddyb4957 also! a bonus to not having a bottomless portafilter is if you get a sprayer you don't have to clean half your countertop and machine lolol :) glad if I was helpful ! Justin
Yes! Here you go :) I wish I could describe to you which variables did what, but it took me about 2 months to learn how PID works in order to set the variables properly. Then it took about 2 weeks of testing for me to fine tune them after learning how to do it with this machine. I've been using the gaggiuino stuff on it for a long time now and completely forgot even how to access the menu on the PID, which luckily I still have wired in for power on the machine and just have a piece of electrical tape covering the screen so it's not so bright lol. Was too lazy to take the bottom off and disconnect it. So anyways here's what worked very well for me. in menu 0036 P - 2.0 i - 38 d - 15 Souf - 1.0 ot - 002 FILT - 3 In menu 0089 i think the only relevant thing is the offset which I don't know if it will be the same for you. Mine was 7, but it fluctuated slightly between 5-9 depending on how warm the water was in my reservoir is what I determined the variable to be. You can get really really close readings just holding an accurate digital cooking thermometer under the flow straight from the shower screen if you have a probe. Happy tinkering :)
@@justinbouchard Thanks a lot again, I really apreciate your videos and how you think outside of the box. How is it going with gagguino?, I read that you have some problems with the community. Are you liking it? Im thinking of maybe installing but I also like to feel of controlling the flow by my own hand. Regards :)
thanks for the kind words! i'm glad i'm helpful :) i love the gaggiuino, especially with having added stop on weight and touch screen start and stop, and adjustinng the steaming temp it's just the best and yeah, there were a couple of ok individuals, but the community as a whole was pretty effing toxic led by zerobit have no idea what it's like almost a year later but that's how it was then and i don't really imagine that the aggressive bigotry and elitism while modding a 400$ coffee maker has changed lmao @@ElFortresMC
Hi colleague, Interesting stuff you're doing) Also playing here with my ec230bk sandbox, so probably will leave comments with questions here and there over time...but my PID and gauge are still on the way. So today's one is did you need to grind the inner surface of the holder to make it wider and to manage the 54mm basket to fit? Or it just got there? And how tight it's sitting in it? Any issues with getting the coffee tablet out? As I understood, no spring left there, just naked PF? Thank you, Cheers!
Hi! Yes please feel free to ask any questions any time :) Answer to your question: Yes I did have to make the inside of the portafilter larger after cutting off the bottom. I just used a hand file, then sandpaper finishing with 1000 grit sandpaper. I was able to manage keeping the original spring. The groove for the spring also was still there enough in order to hold the spring in place. It fits very nicely is how I would put it. Not too tight, and not loose at all. You're very welcome! Hope that helps. If not feel free to ask something to help me clarify :)
@@justinbouchard , awesome, much appreciated! Then I'll probably start with all the controls and leave this mod for the future... Ah, one more just surfaced my mind. When you were unwiring thermostats, was it clear which one is doing what?. So far I saw just painted red dot on one of them. I've heard that there is some kind of machined marking, but didn't take them fully off to check yet. And the front round knob doesn't make wire tracking easier (╥_╥)
@@simonshandrinov9079 The thermostat that recieves the electricity first is the steam thermostat. On my machine, it was the one on the left while looking at the machine front on. The schematics delonghi has for it on the website say different though so I'm not sure if mine was a random or something. They both are labeled on the contact surface side though so if you remove one and wipe the thermal paste off you can also confirm that way. But on any machine the steam thermostat will recieve power first. Simply because it's the higher temperature. If the lower thermostat was getting power first it would turn off the electricity when it reaches it's set point. One thing I will say is that adding temperature and pressure control on this machine is kind of pointless if you're just going to use a pressurized basket long term. It works well enough to make pressurized basket coffee from stock. If you're trying to actually make espresso with this it won't be possible without a better basket. You'll end up choking your machine as there is no over pressure valve. There is only a pressure releif valve that is basically a safety mechanism. It does not release pressure until beyond 11 bar.
@@justinbouchard thanks for the extended answer! As for the basket, my machine goes with unpressurized ones from the factory (though, I've ordered a bit bigger 51mm baskets as I was not sure about 54...and now I believe I need to wait until my 51 tamper wears out before I change it to 54 :D) Plus, it has all metal steam wand out of the box and I started getting a kind of microfoam in just a couple of months trying)). So it's great for the fine tuning already, I guess. Having simple time more C2 manual grinder, I'm consistently receiving 16 > 32 shots in 25 - 28 secs (when there is no huge channeling occurred in the early extraction stage of course...which is happening from time to time) So I'm aiming for pressure decreasing to avoid channeling, PID for repeatability of shots and beans adaptation...and dimmer for both, pre-infusion and profiling...
@@simonshandrinov9079 super awesome!!!! i was just trying to save you going down a parts rabbit hole and working on this machine if you didn't really have a reason to :) Adding a pressure gauage and a dimmer will be super amazing for your shots :) I also want to add that you will more than likely be able to grind substantially finer. The pressure gets so high before any relief it ends up just compressing the puck so much water can't even get through. Then it ramps up to 11+ bar and makes for a bad time lol
I'm so pissed, why would you not show us how you disassembled you machine. Like people watch this to help them fix their machine. Very dumb edit choice.
if you can't figure out how to take the top off then you probably shouldn't be taking it apart....
@justinbouchard Or maybe he just wants to make sure he doesn't break anything that he can't see from the outside while taking it apart. I came to this video for the same reason of seeing how to take it apart to make sure I didn't break my machine on accident.
Since he was not help, here's how to take the top off: there's two Phillips screws under the flap on top. They are covered by plastic plugs. There are two more Phillips screws on the bottom front of the top section. Those also need to be removed. After removing those the top should come right off.
@@charleshobbies LMAO
damn man your smooth, you really beat that basket with a hammer and made it look good as new! great work!
Thank you!!! I've been rednecking smooth repairs for a couple decades 😂
I really wish you would make a video about how you put on that steam wand. I started the process thinking I could use your current videos and realized you never really showed how you got into the machine to get to that part.
can you be more specific? I haven't watched any of my videos in a while and I also put on a different steam wand that is a cool touch one. do you mean how do you get the steam wand out? if that's what you mean you have to take the boiler apart because the mounting bracket that holds the steam wand is sandwiched between the top of the boiler and the frame of the machine
Hi Justin from uk, I have a Stilosa I bought new about 2 months ago, I ordered PID T7100 and a PT100 thermocouple from Ali express, which I now have, my question is about the thermocouple fitting on the boiler? Did you drill and tap the stainless steel boiler to fit the thermocouple? I don’t have Tap to do that. My Pt100 thermo couple ends with an M4 brass stud so I’m thinking maybe get hold of an M4 brass nut and Araldite that to boiler then carefully screw the M4 stud into it? A rough wiring diagram of your setup would be a great help! Brilliant video BTW 👍🏻Andy
Nice video, man 👍
Is pid controls boiler's temperature while extraction or boiler heating off ?
I like moding my delonghi ecp too.
thank you!!
pid controls during both, i optimized it so it doesn't overshoot during extraction
i had the pid for about a month or so then switched to the gaggiuino and modified the software to suit my needs :)
Would it be possible to show how you have everything wired up? Thank you.
@@SangNguyen-bw8vh what do you mean by everything?
there's wiring diagrams for the gaggiuino stuff
If you give me about one week and maybe give me a reminder and I can try and make a short video showing how I have things wired up
I'll more than likely just make a small basic diagram and explain it on a video
I'm not sure if I'll have the energy to pull it apart and show everything
@@SangNguyen-bw8vh I just realized this is the video with the PID
I can show you a video how to do that that's easy
give me a week though
@@justinbouchard Oh Amazing! It's great to hear that😀. thank u so much bro. You don't know that I've tried looking for instructions on how to install PID but nobody telling about delonghi machine has even mentioned anything about it except finished pictures, text, diagram that I don't know how to do. I can't wait to see your next video🙏
@@justinbouchard it would be even better if it have dimmer mod, pressure gauge installing way bro!😊
@@SangNguyen-bw8vh i'll make something for you, it is easy but clear instructions are difficult to find
basically, you add power to the pid, connect the thermostat to the pid, remove power connections from old thermostat and now your pid is controlling the temperature
I have the settings for my pid in one of the comments here or in another video.
If I don't post something in one week give me a comment to remind me :)
Fantastic mods! And what difference in taste they bring?
more consistent so it helps for sure!!
Couple of questions, one for you Justin, and one for anyone else who may have used an unpressurized 51mm basket. So to the first Q:
Q1. I noted that you used a 48mm? IMS shower screen...did you need to do any modding/adjustments or did it just fit perfectly. I ask this as this model originally [unlike the ECP3420] comes with a smaller stock 41mm shower screen.
Q2. I plan to use an unpressurized basket BUT without a bottomless portafilter; I plan to use the portafilter that comes with this EC230 unit and just take out the plastic fitting at the bottom. Has anyone done this, what is the largest basket depth/gram volume I can use, and are there any other cheaper options apart from the very expensive IMS baskets; I note some of the baskets have a rolled/rounded top edge [not a flat top edge as with the original baskets], and so wonder if this would create an issue when tightening the portafilter into the machine just before pulling a shot i.e. the extra space needed for the roll might damage the seal OR prevent the portafilter locking/rotating properly.
Thanks in advance for all answers/contributions.
hey!! thank you so much for the questions and praise! I can get back to you tomorrow about this, just about to call it a night :)
q1: I used literally the same screw the original screen is installed with :) it does work with original baskets as well :)
q2: k, so I imagine the stock portafilter won't be deep enough to use with a different basket, but I could be wrong, this is just a guess based on memory. ims is the cheapest one I could find in 54mm I ordered from espresso shop UK, i'm in canada.
Yes you're more than likely right about the rolled rim. I don't know if it's this video or not but I describe that I flatten it and trim it to make it fit.
This also brings me to a point about q1 I didn't think of until now.
You will not be able to fit a 54mm basket into the portafilter without reaming out the inside. I suppose it could be attempted with a burr bit on a drill, or if you had access to a milling machine then it could be done easily. But for me, cutting the bottom off which is relatively easy, was the best solution to remove material appropriately without damaging the portafilter using a file.
Hope this helps!
actually yes, I talk about the rolled rim in the first minute of this video lolol
Thanks for your reply; pity I no longer have access to a lathe as I could trim the internal diameter to fit; don't fancy the messing about so I will just buy a 51mm basket that isn't too deep either, that way I can just take out the plastic housing in the bottom without modifying the original. OK, I won't be bottonmless/see if the extraction is channeling but so be it.
Just one last question/clarification, so if I don't enlarge the portafilter the original 51mm will still work with the upgraded IMS shower screen correct?
Thanks.
@@justinbouchard
hey! yes the ims shower screen does fit with the original portafilters! :)
i made a "scace" device and used one of the old pressurized baskets to do this with and it fits just fine :)
@@teddyb4957 also! a bonus to not having a bottomless portafilter is if you get a sprayer you don't have to clean half your countertop and machine lolol :)
glad if I was helpful !
Justin
Hi, im modding my ecp 33 21 and I apreciate a lot your videos, could you share your PID values? Thanks a lot.
Yes! Here you go :)
I wish I could describe to you which variables did what, but it took me about 2 months to learn how PID works in order to set the variables properly. Then it took about 2 weeks of testing for me to fine tune them after learning how to do it with this machine. I've been using the gaggiuino stuff on it for a long time now and completely forgot even how to access the menu on the PID, which luckily I still have wired in for power on the machine and just have a piece of electrical tape covering the screen so it's not so bright lol. Was too lazy to take the bottom off and disconnect it.
So anyways here's what worked very well for me.
in menu 0036
P - 2.0
i - 38
d - 15
Souf - 1.0
ot - 002
FILT - 3
In menu 0089 i think the only relevant thing is the offset which I don't know if it will be the same for you. Mine was 7, but it fluctuated slightly between 5-9 depending on how warm the water was in my reservoir is what I determined the variable to be.
You can get really really close readings just holding an accurate digital cooking thermometer under the flow straight from the shower screen if you have a probe.
Happy tinkering :)
@@justinbouchard Thanks a lot again, I really apreciate your videos and how you think outside of the box. How is it going with gagguino?, I read that you have some problems with the community. Are you liking it? Im thinking of maybe installing but I also like to feel of controlling the flow by my own hand.
Regards :)
thanks for the kind words! i'm glad i'm helpful :)
i love the gaggiuino, especially with having added stop on weight and touch screen start and stop, and adjustinng the steaming temp
it's just the best
and yeah, there were a couple of ok individuals, but the community as a whole was pretty effing toxic led by zerobit
have no idea what it's like almost a year later but that's how it was then and i don't really imagine that the aggressive bigotry and elitism while modding a 400$ coffee maker has changed lmao
@@ElFortresMC
Hi colleague,
Interesting stuff you're doing)
Also playing here with my ec230bk sandbox, so probably will leave comments with questions here and there over time...but my PID and gauge are still on the way.
So today's one is did you need to grind the inner surface of the holder to make it wider and to manage the 54mm basket to fit? Or it just got there?
And how tight it's sitting in it? Any issues with getting the coffee tablet out? As I understood, no spring left there, just naked PF?
Thank you,
Cheers!
Hi! Yes please feel free to ask any questions any time :)
Answer to your question:
Yes I did have to make the inside of the portafilter larger after cutting off the bottom. I just used a hand file, then sandpaper finishing with 1000 grit sandpaper.
I was able to manage keeping the original spring. The groove for the spring also was still there enough in order to hold the spring in place. It fits very nicely is how I would put it. Not too tight, and not loose at all.
You're very welcome! Hope that helps. If not feel free to ask something to help me clarify :)
@@justinbouchard , awesome, much appreciated!
Then I'll probably start with all the controls and leave this mod for the future...
Ah, one more just surfaced my mind.
When you were unwiring thermostats, was it clear which one is doing what?. So far I saw just painted red dot on one of them. I've heard that there is some kind of machined marking, but didn't take them fully off to check yet. And the front round knob doesn't make wire tracking easier (╥_╥)
@@simonshandrinov9079 The thermostat that recieves the electricity first is the steam thermostat. On my machine, it was the one on the left while looking at the machine front on. The schematics delonghi has for it on the website say different though so I'm not sure if mine was a random or something. They both are labeled on the contact surface side though so if you remove one and wipe the thermal paste off you can also confirm that way. But on any machine the steam thermostat will recieve power first. Simply because it's the higher temperature. If the lower thermostat was getting power first it would turn off the electricity when it reaches it's set point.
One thing I will say is that adding temperature and pressure control on this machine is kind of pointless if you're just going to use a pressurized basket long term. It works well enough to make pressurized basket coffee from stock. If you're trying to actually make espresso with this it won't be possible without a better basket. You'll end up choking your machine as there is no over pressure valve. There is only a pressure releif valve that is basically a safety mechanism. It does not release pressure until beyond 11 bar.
@@justinbouchard thanks for the extended answer!
As for the basket, my machine goes with unpressurized ones from the factory (though, I've ordered a bit bigger 51mm baskets as I was not sure about 54...and now I believe I need to wait until my 51 tamper wears out before I change it to 54 :D) Plus, it has all metal steam wand out of the box and I started getting a kind of microfoam in just a couple of months trying)). So it's great for the fine tuning already, I guess. Having simple time more C2 manual grinder, I'm consistently receiving 16 > 32 shots in 25 - 28 secs (when there is no huge channeling occurred in the early extraction stage of course...which is happening from time to time)
So I'm aiming for pressure decreasing to avoid channeling, PID for repeatability of shots and beans adaptation...and dimmer for both, pre-infusion and profiling...
@@simonshandrinov9079 super awesome!!!! i was just trying to save you going down a parts rabbit hole and working on this machine if you didn't really have a reason to :) Adding a pressure gauage and a dimmer will be super amazing for your shots :)
I also want to add that you will more than likely be able to grind substantially finer. The pressure gets so high before any relief it ends up just compressing the puck so much water can't even get through. Then it ramps up to 11+ bar and makes for a bad time lol