If you're thinking of using paste between the DLP chip and the heat sink. Consider that there is a small gap that the original material fills between the two. Using paste may not make full contact with the surfaces. If they do you, also might get run off from the heat sink paste, or you are creating an insulator rather than a transfer from too much paste to fill that gap. I suggest you apply a thin layer of paste to the heat sink, and then assemble it toward the DLP chip. Remove it again and see how much surface it covered. I've done this in the past to see if heat sink compound is a better solution and found this out. Out of all the DLP chips I've replaced on Mitsubishi's, I only had one person insist on applying artic silver over the stock type material. I had to apply a thickness equal to the original material to make contact.
I have an Optoma Pro350W and the DLP started acting up after approx. 5 years usage: blue/purple flashes on the screen. the thermal compound was for a large portion gone with overheating as the result. I used a fairly priced compound and the problem was fixed. After 6 months, the DLP now has white dots in a single corner (about 40 dots). The compound I put in has "melted" and left some kind of residual "oil" for a part. I think this caused some kind of leakage current, and not by overheating, causing the dots to appear. The socket now has "oil" all over, so before replacing, make sure this is all clean. Good compound is key.
I would've termed it "lice and fleas", just to keep the pestilence metaphor. I have a 67" Samsung DLP in which I had to replace this chip. It was a fairly easy repair - pretty-much just like installing a consumer-grade CPU. Unfortunately, the blue LED has now failed on me. I'm just waiting for some replacement caps from Digi-Key that I want to also throw in while I'm mucking around inside the TV. It's a shame this technology wasn't pursued past 1080p. A 2160p DLP display would've looked awesome, easily rivaling the best OLED.
When I was first in the market for a large flat screen I gave no consideration to DLP. Then I went to my son's house and took a look at his Mitsubishi 60" DLP. When he put in a BluRay disk I was blown away. Breathtaking picture quality. I bought my 65" for $1,100,00 bucks. After 4 years, the artifacts began to appear.Just changed the chip, no brainer, beautiful picture again and if I have to do this every four or five years I'm ok with that. It's a shame everyone has dropped this product.
+Patrick Kodran Right. If you figure about $200 for maintenance every 5 to 10 years or so, that's not all that bad. WAY better than buying a new TV every 5 to 10 years for a cool grand... or more. Just replaced mine too.
Overheating can't be the only cause. I read TI chips specs, and they named two main reasons of chip lifetime reducing. First, as you say - temperature. Second - UV from lamp. And i sink, UV is more important, because there is very small opportunity to heat chip more than 75 C (manufacturer's rate). Maybe it's possible if stop all fans, but if cooling system works - overheating is not an issue. But if your lamp module is old enough, or you damage UV filter on it (as i do) - you'll get problems with DMD. In my case, I trying to do maintain working well old XGA projector, put some good thermal paste (MX-4) on heat sink, but, accidentally, seriously scratching UV filter on lamp module. As result - got black dots all over the screen instantly.
I don’t think this is a heat issue. Or it is, but it’s due to a defect in these chips. You tend to see failures in the same models of DMD chips. The science of DLP is sound, but the early chips were not well made or there was something they overlooked that caused early failure that they remedied in later revisions. Also it isn’t heat from the dmd, it heat from the lamp. The lamp can put out a LOT more heat than the chip can generate by itself. So it’s different from a cpu in that respect.
I actually have about 200 of these chips sitting in my living room, although i believe most if not all are missing their micromirrors, my brother found them at his recycle plant straight from Texas Instruments, maybe i could go through them all and see if any of them work if they really sell for upwards 100+ dollars
thanks for the video. I have 3 Mitsubishi and 1 Samsung. love them love the technology and the picture. you will always have to replace the dlp chip or the color wheel but for the price and the ability to do it yourself it's cheap. when they started with the plasmas it was such a waste of money because when they broke it was more to fix it then when you purchased it. these videos are such a big help to the consumer and this video really helped me understand why the dots. thanks
So, if I only have a few (10-20) dead pixels in the corner of the screen. Can I take apart my projector and apply a better thermal past to the silver backing and resolve the problem from getting any worse? Or is it going to continually lose pixels even if I replace the thermal paste?
If you think the DMD chip is expensive when the panel of and LCD or plasma goes bad goodby whatever you paid for it hello landfill or ecycle. I have a Samsung that is now showing signs of a failing DMD chip. Good to know that TI had a bad batch of chips around the time that my TV was made. Sounds like they took the necessary corrective action and now the chips are better than ever. That encourages me to replace the failing chip and enjoy many more years of service out of my investment. My TV has the LED light engine so no bulb to regularly go bad. I did have a blue LED go bad and wouldn't you know it the factory didn't put enough heatsink compound causing eventual overheating. And keep in mind ALL of the new digital movie theater projectors from Christy are DLP not LCD. Thx for the video.
+pcrengnr1 Although I love my flat panels LCD TVs, the sad truth of them is when the display panel goes... You would be better off getting a new flat panel being the price of replacing the display panels in both plasma and lcd is what it would cost to buy a new one! However instead of having that flat panel go to the landfill, sell the remaining pc boards on ebay and get some $$$$ for it in return!
@MrMac5150 Mitsubishi stopped making DLP (officially in Feb 2014) due to poor management. The screens themselves really are a superior technology (more so than some OLED and most newer Plasmas aka Samsung's current line. I saw the new Samsung S9C on demo, which costs around $8K, compared to some of the old Mitsu Diamond screens and Laservue a96, Mitsu flat out wins in sharpness, motion, color, brightness and doesn't hurt your eyes). From what I've dug up, many were fired which resulted in the TV branch being axed and the company lost big money. Poor marketing was their biggest irk as the screens were definitely in demand, but they did not deliver. Would you believe about 5 stores in California alone actually carried Laservue TVs? In 2011 - 2013 the stores like Best Buy, Frys's Electronics, Walmart etc (stores that should have carried these screens) did not have them. No delivery, no service. Mitsubishi really screwed up.
wholeheartedly agree with you on that. samsung 5300 for sale at kmart right now, has the screen door effect. still loving my old samsung DLP. i know the salvation army is the place to look for them, but if you're really lucky you'll find a nice 3D Mitsubishi.
I'm looking to buy a Mitsubishi 65" DLP that is showing about 15 dots. Is this a terminal failure?...or can I remove the chip, clean it up and reapply better heat conducting solder to stop the process until I can better afford to replace the chip?
I replaced my chip but found the thermal tape still in the packaging in which it was shipped...I scraped off the old tape from the housing. Do I need to take it all apart to put the tape on or will it be okay? TV works fine.
We bought our tv used, and it worked fine. Until we used shims to tilt the tv forward a bit. Then all the black dots started appearing. Do you think the tilting cause the mirrors to get stuck? Thanks for your help
I have a Mits 65 inch DLP. I noticed last night for the first time that when black or dark shades are being displayed, there is a grainy pixelated black and gray dot mosaic all over the screen (no white). These aren't apparent during bright color scenes or when viewing the blue screen (no input). But the anomaly can even be seen when the television is turned off and is powering/cooling down, and the lamp is still somewhat on. Is this likely a chip issue or could there be another explanation (such as dust particles stuck or cooked onto the underside of the screen? Thanks!
I just received and installed a new DPL Chip and now instead of white dots I have vertical lines, Also tv wont power off. I have a Mitisbushi WD60735 60 in rear projection, can you help me please?
Does LCOS technology have this, I had a JVC 61" LCoS Technology and have never even changed the bulb in 8 years, it is awesome! I love LCOS! I see JVC now is releasing them soon to compete with the LCD, PLASMA AND LED as they are now wall mountable to!...
ohger1 I think JVC has it down now, as at least with my 61 inch still going strong same bulb and its dusty! Turns on every-time. It was a 6 thousand dollar TV and worth every penny. I just swapped to a 1080i JVC 36 inch Plasma (Older) from a 22 inch acer 1080p (year old) and I am happy as can be with the larger screen, see little to no difference with the interlaced versus the progressive but I am sure that depends on the TV, manufacture, etc. Also, tell me some issues with the LCOS as it is used in almost all movie theater projectors JVC and sony have it patented and will not give it up. I stand behind JVC!
The biggest problem with LCOS projectors, at least at the consumer level, is polarizing filters that fade or burn, and LCOS chips (most particularly blue) that burn from too much UV light. I don't know about the commercial units, but it's likely those employ UV filters in front of the polarizers and color filters to reduce UV damage to them and the LCOS imager chips. UV filters would take up more room and run hot, so they would have to be well constructed and cooled to be effective.
I wonder if it will help to replace the thermal interface material with a good one such as Arctic Silver 5? This is what I used on my PCs CPU when I built it and have no thermal issues.
Great info Nick, I guess it would be better to change out the thermal pad to using Ceramique 2 White thermal past by Arctic Selver or AC 5, which would you recommend between the two?
I just found a Samsung HL-T6176S on the curb and have just today removed the DLP chip. All of the examples I've seen were any part number except the chip I have. I've gotta say your video is the very first indication I've seen of anyone else but me who has a 1910-6103W. Now, I've just got to know what part number you've replaced yours with? I'm only seeing that a 4719-001987 is all I can find, and nobody seems to want to tell me if it will cross to the 1910-6103W. Please let me know what chip number you've used as your replacement. Thanks much!
Ijust finished putting in the DLP chip in the TV took me almost 3 hours by myself got it done but now the tv wont show a picture can you guide me to what I need to go back and double check?
Dear Sir, I just replaced my DLP chip in my Mitsubishi 63705. No problem until I was trying to remove the circuit board. There was a very short flat 3 stranded copper wire that plugged into the back of the circuit board. While trying to remove the clip it snapped completely in two. it almost looks like it was severed with something sharp. I am not sure what this wire leads to or if it even can be replaced. It looks like it leads to the right part of the tv somewhere. Can you give me any info on this, what it is, can it be replaced reasonably. I hate to just have to scrap this tv, I have about fifteen hundred in it, Just replaced a lamp and the chip today. Can you help?
It sounds like you broke the connector on the DMD board where the color wheel speed sensor feedback lead connects to. If so you'll need to replace the DMD board and do a chassis realignment particularly for gamma and index.
Dennis G. Rhoads At this point you're over your head on cost. The best option would be to acquire the CORRECT DMD board and install it. With any luck, you won't have to have it recalibrated. If it's any consolation, I've had customers bring me their TVs and they've broken them in the same manner.
Why haven't they made a led bulb for the Mitsubishi dlp tv yet my favorite TVs first 73s inch I got was from the early 2000 I got one a few months ago for 100 dollars they said the lamp was out I took out the lamp adjusted the set screw and it worked had two small white dots tho but on my first 73 I had it had tons of those dots when I first got it so easy to fix gold is just so expensive right now they shot up in price
I think you're on to something. I just replaced mine in my Mitsubishi *WD-60735 chip# 1910-6143W* and, the thermo-conductivity paste/sitcker/whatever was not really attached very well. These are very fragile mirror systems inside the chip and I can see how overheating them could very well disrupt the ability to control the mirrors. Got mine from Shop Jimmy for $184 [quoted $585 - WTH? Does the guy think he's an actual surgeon?] Took just over 30 minutes once I got the back of the TV off.
I have a Mitsubishi 65'' WD-65735 and I just put in a brand new DLP chip because of the spots. I was very careful installing it and now when I try to turn it on the TVs "Lamp light" is flashing and wont turn on. What did I do, what can I do??? please help!
***** Did you replace the lamp door? (won't run without the covers; saves you from burning your retinas). If that's not it, you probably damaged the DMD board or DVI cable.
ohger1 Thanks for the reply! Im not sure what the lamp door is or where. If I had to remove it/open it to get to the dlp chip then I put it back. I was really careful and kept up with everything. Is there a way for me to trouble shoot these things?
The lamp door is the small (maybe 7" X 7") plastic cover located on the right side of the rear cover by two philips head screws. It's the door that covers the lamp and has a safety switch to prevent people from looking directly at the lamp which will damage your eyes in seconds.
***** When you changed the DLP chip, did you plug in the two connectors on the back of the DMD board going to the color wheel? The flat one only electrically contacts one way. If you didn't, the color wheel won't spin and therefore the lamp won't strike. This will result in a lamp failure light on the front of the set. Also as others have replied below the lamp door safety switch has to be engaged or the back of the set has to be on with the lamp door in place. Anyone not knowing how these products work should be advised to use a digital camera as they take things apart to see where things like certain screw locations belong, and connectors go. Also the light engine should be removed (3 screws) and all connector detached to it, to clean out the lamp fans properly with compressed air. Don't spin the fans with compressed air! Hold them from spinning as you apply the air.
hey thanks for the info,im trying to educate myself on dlp chips. i have a dell projector that the picture was beautifull,until i started getting "stars and fleas".the lamp has over 900 hrs left so i dont want to trash it all together. my question is can i use any dlp chip in the projector?i have two ohter projectors and was thinking i could take the dlp from one of them. thanks for any info.
Look up the DLP chips of the older projectors and see if they use the same model of DLP chip as the newer one. If they don't match, you'll have to buy one.
im pretty possitive that all of the projectors are about two years old, does this matter?and i know that dell uses TI dlp chips,which i do not want to use becuase they now have a class action suite due to the defect. thanks again
tfblack33 The age might matter, IDK. Good luck finding a quality DLP chip manufactured by someone else... that's because Texas Instruments is the company who invented (and likely patented) DLP technology.
ah crap.ok one last question...are dlp chips different,like one gives a much better picture than the other or are they pretty much the same? thanks again for your help,advice and patience,its greatly apreciated!
+Cube Computer Channel I am thinking of changing out the thermal pad for thermal paste in my BenQ MW817ST projector being it has less than 40 original playing hours off the bat! However which paste would be good for the DMD chip, Ceramique 2 White thermal paste by Arctic Selver or AC 5? BTW are there any halogen lamps to LED conversion kits or methods out there? Thanks!
+Jeremy Matthews I have to say that BenQ already had used something in which appeared to look like they used Arctic Sliver 5 not the white thermal paste! Although the say the arctic silver 5 is better than the white Ceramique 2, never use it on a MAC BOOK Pro being the formula is conductive and there are components way to close to heat sink! Learned the hard way on that one, desk tops its ok being that there is more room!
Dude that was amazing info! I do a lot of repairs and always believe its mind over matter in most cases! Is there a way to fix the artifacts without replacing the DLP chip? If so whats the requirements?
A good term for those "stars and fleas" would be "artifacts". Something you'll get if you push your graphics card too hard while gaming by overclocking it too high or letting it get too hot
shopjimmy.com sells replacement DLP chips pretty cheap+tutorials for the replacement (which is not difficult, requires care is about all). ALSO, I was reassured by their (very good) support that the replacement chips are an improved model from TI, which took a pretty big hit after the 'white dot' problem showed up on the first ones.
thanx man awesome explaination. Ive been abusing my projector soo much...keeping it on for 9 hours plus as my t.v broke beyond repair..DONT DO THIS....KEEP IT CLEAN! AVOID TEXAS INSTRUMENTS DMD CHIPED PROJECTORS AND CHIPS.
Same here. Mine is on probably 12 hours a day. I found the projector at GoodWill for only $4, and it worked perfectly and only had 300 hours on it. After about a month and 400+ hours more of use, the DLP started to fail.
I have a projector viewsonic PJD6211 and into 3 years two times has failed the DMD chip inside, showing a lot of white and dark spots, that continue growing in number every day until there is all the screen full of white spots. Viewsonic doesnt care about this problem and many people has suffered this fail. A single chip has a $180 price. I hate DLPS projector and I hATE vIEWSONIC bad quality! Only 400 hours and fail repeadtly!
I have the problem with a Samsung HLT5075. Good news is that Samsung said they would honor the chip replacement for free but I would have to pay the labor. The service center wanted over 200 bucks for a 30 minute fix. BS! So I asked Samsung first if they could simply mail the chip to me so that I could do the repair. No. So I thought I would offer the service center 30 or 40 bucks to just hand me the chip. No. Assholes. Shopjimmy seems to be the best price for my chip. $50 and I'll do the repair myself. Assholes.
The failure of the DMD chips are NOT due to heating. These are not terribly hot running devices even with no heatsink and fans. This was simply a bad run of chips about 2007. No models earlier or later have this problem.
+ohger1 Not hot running?? Really? Have you seen the 5 ounce, 2"x3.5"x1.5" aluminum heat sink they're attached to? Why bother with fans, heat sinks if they don't "need" them?
They are rated to run at a max of 75C, and they typically run less than 30 C with heat sink and fan under typical operating conditions. Working on DMD drive boards over the years show most DMD image chips don't run over 45C with just the heatsink and no fan even up to 30 minutes of run time. Heat is NOT the reason these DMD chips fail. It was simply a bad run of this one part number. Neither earlier nor later 1080P DMD chips suffer the stuck pixel problem. I suspect the reason for the failure is too much UV gain through the lens of the DMD chip. It's possible that this particular design is inefficient at dispersing the UV heat from the front of the chip to the back heatsink, or perhaps it doesn't have sufficient UV filtering in the front lens.
You could have just said it overheats due to poor use of thermal paste. Man to I feel like I lost some brain cells watching this. You guys really talk like that?
If you're thinking of using paste between the DLP chip and the heat sink. Consider that there is a small gap that the original material fills between the two. Using paste may not make full contact with the surfaces. If they do you, also might get run off from the heat sink paste, or you are creating an insulator rather than a transfer from too much paste to fill that gap. I suggest you apply a thin layer of paste to the heat sink, and then assemble it toward the DLP chip. Remove it again and see how much surface it covered. I've done this in the past to see if heat sink compound is a better solution and found this out. Out of all the DLP chips I've replaced on Mitsubishi's, I only had one person insist on applying artic silver over the stock type material. I had to apply a thickness equal to the original material to make contact.
I have an Optoma Pro350W and the DLP started acting up after approx. 5 years usage: blue/purple flashes on the screen. the thermal compound was for a large portion gone with overheating as the result. I used a fairly priced compound and the problem was fixed. After 6 months, the DLP now has white dots in a single corner (about 40 dots). The compound I put in has "melted" and left some kind of residual "oil" for a part. I think this caused some kind of leakage current, and not by overheating, causing the dots to appear. The socket now has "oil" all over, so before replacing, make sure this is all clean. Good compound is key.
I would've termed it "lice and fleas", just to keep the pestilence metaphor.
I have a 67" Samsung DLP in which I had to replace this chip. It was a fairly easy repair - pretty-much just like installing a consumer-grade CPU.
Unfortunately, the blue LED has now failed on me. I'm just waiting for some replacement caps from Digi-Key that I want to also throw in while I'm mucking around inside the TV.
It's a shame this technology wasn't pursued past 1080p. A 2160p DLP display would've looked awesome, easily rivaling the best OLED.
When I was first in the market for a large flat screen I gave no consideration to DLP. Then I went to my son's house and took a look at his Mitsubishi 60" DLP. When he put in a BluRay disk I was blown away. Breathtaking picture quality. I bought my 65" for $1,100,00 bucks. After 4 years, the artifacts began to appear.Just changed the chip, no brainer, beautiful picture again and if I have to do this every four or five years I'm ok with that. It's a shame everyone has dropped this product.
+Patrick Kodran Right. If you figure about $200 for maintenance every 5 to 10 years or so, that's not all that bad. WAY better than buying a new TV every 5 to 10 years for a cool grand... or more.
Just replaced mine too.
well if thats the case Mr. Kodran,you can start heading out to my place and you can replace my dlp chip..
Overheating can't be the only cause. I read TI chips specs, and they named two main reasons of chip lifetime reducing. First, as you say - temperature. Second - UV from lamp. And i sink, UV is more important, because there is very small opportunity to heat chip more than 75 C (manufacturer's rate). Maybe it's possible if stop all fans, but if cooling system works - overheating is not an issue. But if your lamp module is old enough, or you damage UV filter on it (as i do) - you'll get problems with DMD. In my case, I trying to do maintain working well old XGA projector, put some good thermal paste (MX-4) on heat sink, but, accidentally, seriously scratching UV filter on lamp module. As result - got black dots all over the screen instantly.
I don’t think this is a heat issue. Or it is, but it’s due to a defect in these chips. You tend to see failures in the same models of DMD chips. The science of DLP is sound, but the early chips were not well made or there was something they overlooked that caused early failure that they remedied in later revisions.
Also it isn’t heat from the dmd, it heat from the lamp. The lamp can put out a LOT more heat than the chip can generate by itself. So it’s different from a cpu in that respect.
I actually have about 200 of these chips sitting in my living room, although i believe most if not all are missing their micromirrors, my brother found them at his recycle plant straight from Texas Instruments, maybe i could go through them all and see if any of them work if they really sell for upwards 100+ dollars
Benjamin Schutz I'm serious buyer if you still have them! I'm in Southern California. Contact me please.
with a magnifier you can see the imperfections from stuck mirrors
You are the luckiest man on earth, seriously Im jealous
thanks for the video. I have 3 Mitsubishi and 1 Samsung. love them love the technology and the picture. you will always have to replace the dlp chip or the color wheel but for the price and the ability to do it yourself it's cheap. when they started with the plasmas it was such a waste of money because when they broke it was more to fix it then when you purchased it. these videos are such a big help to the consumer and this video really helped me understand why the dots. thanks
Put some good thermal past on the DPL chip and slap a low resistance filter on the fan intake grill, after you give it a good cleaning of course.
Do you have a link for the replacing video? I couldn't seem to find it.
So, if I only have a few (10-20) dead pixels in the corner of the screen. Can I take apart my projector and apply a better thermal past to the silver backing and resolve the problem from getting any worse? Or is it going to continually lose pixels even if I replace the thermal paste?
no, yes
If you think the DMD chip is expensive when the panel of and LCD or plasma goes bad goodby whatever you paid for it hello landfill or ecycle. I have a Samsung that is now showing signs of a failing DMD chip. Good to know that TI had a bad batch of chips around the time that my TV was made. Sounds like they took the necessary corrective action and now the chips are better than ever. That encourages me to replace the failing chip and enjoy many more years of service out of my investment. My TV has the LED light engine so no bulb to regularly go bad. I did have a blue LED go bad and wouldn't you know it the factory didn't put enough heatsink compound causing eventual overheating. And keep in mind ALL of the new digital movie theater projectors from Christy are DLP not LCD.
Thx for the video.
+pcrengnr1 Although I love my flat panels LCD TVs, the sad truth of them is when the display panel goes... You would be better off getting a new flat panel being the price of replacing the display panels in both plasma and lcd is what it would cost to buy a new one! However instead of having that flat panel go to the landfill, sell the remaining pc boards on ebay and get some $$$$ for it in return!
@MrMac5150 Mitsubishi stopped making DLP (officially in Feb 2014) due to poor management. The screens themselves really are a superior technology (more so than some OLED and most newer Plasmas aka Samsung's current line. I saw the new Samsung S9C on demo, which costs around $8K, compared to some of the old Mitsu Diamond screens and Laservue a96, Mitsu flat out wins in sharpness, motion, color, brightness and doesn't hurt your eyes).
From what I've dug up, many were fired which resulted in the TV branch being axed and the company lost big money. Poor marketing was their biggest irk as the screens were definitely in demand, but they did not deliver. Would you believe about 5 stores in California alone actually carried Laservue TVs? In 2011 - 2013 the stores like Best Buy, Frys's Electronics, Walmart etc (stores that should have carried these screens) did not have them. No delivery, no service. Mitsubishi really screwed up.
wholeheartedly agree with you on that. samsung 5300 for sale at kmart right now, has the screen door effect. still loving my old samsung DLP. i know the salvation army is the place to look for them, but if you're really lucky you'll find a nice 3D Mitsubishi.
Hi, i can't find anywhere whats The DMD chip model for This projector. Could you help me?
I'm looking to buy a Mitsubishi 65" DLP that is showing about 15 dots. Is this a terminal failure?...or can I remove the chip, clean it up and reapply better heat conducting solder to stop the process until I can better afford to replace the chip?
Aren't these dots just dust? Can't you simply clean the surface with a Q tip and alcohol without having to replace the expensive chip ? Thanks.
Nope... not dust. The dots are little mirrors inside the chip that have stuck in the on or off position.
can they be refurbished? or maybe a way to pop the mirrors back in place?
I replaced my chip but found the thermal tape still in the packaging in which it was shipped...I scraped off the old tape from the housing. Do I need to take it all apart to put the tape on or will it be okay? TV works fine.
tengo un proyector viewsonic que solo me proyecta una luz redonda en la pared y no veo n iuna imagen. sera la misma falla? alguna idea? Gracias.
We bought our tv used, and it worked fine. Until we used shims to tilt the tv forward a bit. Then all the black dots started appearing. Do you think the tilting cause the mirrors to get stuck? Thanks for your help
I doubt tilting the TV was the cause of the white dots.
+Lloyd Kadlec The mirror switching is done by Electrons not gravity
I have a Mits 65 inch DLP. I noticed last night for the first time that when black or dark shades are being displayed, there is a grainy pixelated black and gray dot mosaic all over the screen (no white). These aren't apparent during bright color scenes or when viewing the blue screen (no input). But the anomaly can even be seen when the television is turned off and is powering/cooling down, and the lamp is still somewhat on. Is this likely a chip issue or could there be another explanation (such as dust particles stuck or cooked onto the underside of the screen? Thanks!
That is a tell tale sign of future chip failure. Mine used to look like that prior to failure.
How do we control the DMD??
I just received and installed a new DPL Chip and now instead of white dots I have vertical lines, Also tv wont power off. I have a Mitisbushi WD60735 60 in rear projection, can you help me please?
Does LCOS technology have this, I had a JVC 61" LCoS Technology and have never even changed the bulb in 8 years, it is awesome! I love LCOS! I see JVC now is releasing them soon to compete with the LCD, PLASMA AND LED as they are now wall mountable to!...
No, LCOS has it's own problems with filters and polarizers, but that's a different story.
ohger1 I think JVC has it down now, as at least with my 61 inch still going strong same bulb and its dusty! Turns on every-time. It was a 6 thousand dollar TV and worth every penny. I just swapped to a 1080i JVC 36 inch Plasma (Older) from a 22 inch acer 1080p (year old) and I am happy as can be with the larger screen, see little to no difference with the interlaced versus the progressive but I am sure that depends on the TV, manufacture, etc. Also, tell me some issues with the LCOS as it is used in almost all movie theater projectors JVC and sony have it patented and will not give it up. I stand behind JVC!
The biggest problem with LCOS projectors, at least at the consumer level, is polarizing filters that fade or burn, and LCOS chips (most particularly blue) that burn from too much UV light. I don't know about the commercial units, but it's likely those employ UV filters in front of the polarizers and color filters to reduce UV damage to them and the LCOS imager chips. UV filters would take up more room and run hot, so they would have to be well constructed and cooled to be effective.
this info is gold thank u for making these awesome videos.
I wonder if it will help to replace the thermal interface material with a good one such as Arctic Silver 5? This is what I used on my PCs CPU when I built it and have no thermal issues.
I believe if TV manufacturers used good quality paste when building the units, they wouldn't be seeing lots of chip failures like this.
+Darknecros7 I have used Dow Corning heat sink putty for years and have never had issues related to heat.
Great info Nick, I guess it would be better to change out the thermal pad to using Ceramique 2 White thermal past by Arctic Selver or AC 5, which would you recommend between the two?
I just found a Samsung HL-T6176S on the curb and have just today removed the DLP chip. All of the examples I've seen were any part number except the chip I have. I've gotta say your video is the very first indication I've seen of anyone else but me who has a 1910-6103W. Now, I've just got to know what part number you've replaced yours with? I'm only seeing that a 4719-001987 is all I can find, and nobody seems to want to tell me if it will cross to the 1910-6103W. Please let me know what chip number you've used as your replacement. Thanks much!
Chip numbers vary by model, etc. Look up your TV by the model number and you should be able to locate a match.
Ijust finished putting in the DLP chip in the TV took me almost 3 hours by myself got it done but now the tv wont show a picture can you guide me to what I need to go back and double check?
kim burciaga If you're not seeing anything at all on the screen, you may have forgotten to plug the lamp back in.
Ok
True. Planned obsolescence is the term the manufacturing industry uses to make sure the revenue stream continues.
Dear Sir, I just replaced my DLP chip in my Mitsubishi 63705. No problem until I was trying to remove the circuit board. There was a very short flat 3 stranded copper wire that plugged into the back of the circuit board. While trying to remove the clip it snapped completely in two. it almost looks like it was severed with something sharp. I am not sure what this wire leads to or if it even can be replaced. It looks like it leads to the right part of the tv somewhere. Can you give me any info on this, what it is, can it be replaced reasonably. I hate to just have to scrap this tv, I have about fifteen hundred in it, Just replaced a lamp and the chip today. Can you help?
It's been two years since I worked on mine... Don't remember the exact connectors, etc.
It sounds like you broke the connector on the DMD board where the color wheel speed sensor feedback lead connects to.
If so you'll need to replace the DMD board and do a chassis realignment particularly for gamma and index.
thank you so much, now I can know what to describe to buy a replacement. Thank you so much.
I will have to take it to a qualified service center to do this, correct?
Dennis G. Rhoads
At this point you're over your head on cost. The best option would be to acquire the CORRECT DMD board and install it. With any luck, you won't have to have it recalibrated. If it's any consolation, I've had customers bring me their TVs and they've broken them in the same manner.
Why haven't they made a led bulb for the Mitsubishi dlp tv yet my favorite TVs first 73s inch I got was from the early 2000 I got one a few months ago for 100 dollars they said the lamp was out I took out the lamp adjusted the set screw and it worked had two small white dots tho but on my first 73 I had it had tons of those dots when I first got it so easy to fix gold is just so expensive right now they shot up in price
I think you're on to something. I just replaced mine in my Mitsubishi *WD-60735 chip# 1910-6143W* and, the thermo-conductivity paste/sitcker/whatever was not really attached very well.
These are very fragile mirror systems inside the chip and I can see how overheating them could very well disrupt the ability to control the mirrors.
Got mine from Shop Jimmy for $184 [quoted $585 - WTH? Does the guy think he's an actual surgeon?] Took just over 30 minutes once I got the back of the TV off.
I have a Mitsubishi 65'' WD-65735 and I just put in a brand new DLP chip because of the spots. I was very careful installing it and now when I try to turn it on the TVs "Lamp light" is flashing and wont turn on. What did I do, what can I do??? please help!
***** Did you replace the lamp door? (won't run without the covers; saves you from burning your retinas). If that's not it, you probably damaged the DMD board or DVI cable.
ohger1 Thanks for the reply! Im not sure what the lamp door is or where. If I had to remove it/open it to get to the dlp chip then I put it back. I was really careful and kept up with everything. Is there a way for me to trouble shoot these things?
The lamp door is the small (maybe 7" X 7") plastic cover located on the right side of the rear cover by two philips head screws. It's the door that covers the lamp and has a safety switch to prevent people from looking directly at the lamp which will damage your eyes in seconds.
***** When you changed the DLP chip, did you plug in the two connectors on the back of the DMD board going to the color wheel? The flat one only electrically contacts one way. If you didn't, the color wheel won't spin and therefore the lamp won't strike. This will result in a lamp failure light on the front of the set. Also as others have replied below the lamp door safety switch has to be engaged or the back of the set has to be on with the lamp door in place. Anyone not knowing how these products work should be advised to use a digital camera as they take things apart to see where things like certain screw locations belong, and connectors go. Also the light engine should be removed (3 screws) and all connector detached to it, to clean out the lamp fans properly with compressed air. Don't spin the fans with compressed air! Hold them from spinning as you apply the air.
hey thanks for the info,im trying to educate myself on dlp chips. i have a dell projector that the picture was beautifull,until i started getting "stars and fleas".the lamp has over 900 hrs left so i dont want to trash it all together. my question is can i use any dlp chip in the projector?i have two ohter projectors and was thinking i could take the dlp from one of them. thanks for any info.
Look up the DLP chips of the older projectors and see if they use the same model of DLP chip as the newer one. If they don't match, you'll have to buy one.
im pretty possitive that all of the projectors are about two years old, does this matter?and i know that dell uses TI dlp chips,which i do not want to use becuase they now have a class action suite due to the defect. thanks again
tfblack33 The age might matter, IDK. Good luck finding a quality DLP chip manufactured by someone else... that's because Texas Instruments is the company who invented (and likely patented) DLP technology.
ah crap.ok one last question...are dlp chips different,like one gives a much better picture than the other or are they pretty much the same? thanks again for your help,advice and patience,its greatly apreciated!
tfblack33 It really depends on the application the DLP chip is being used for. There are all sorts of different designs.
I have a 60" WD60735 and i have like 50 Pixels..Called Mitsubish and they said it was my chip....bummer..now i gotta pay $200 to get it fixed.....
I'm about to replace a dlp chip. Our you suggesting I use a thermal compound?
Yes, be sure to use thermal compound, otherwise the new chip will overheat and you'll be replacing it again real soon.
Thank you
+Cube Computer Channel I am thinking of changing out the thermal pad for thermal paste in my BenQ MW817ST projector being it has less than 40 original playing hours off the bat! However which paste would be good for the DMD chip, Ceramique 2 White thermal paste by Arctic Selver or AC 5? BTW are there any halogen lamps to LED conversion kits or methods out there? Thanks!
+Ray Hanratty I used Arctic Silver on mine.
+Jeremy Matthews I have to say that BenQ already had used something in which appeared to look like they used Arctic Sliver 5 not the white thermal paste! Although the say the arctic silver 5 is better than the white Ceramique 2, never use it on a MAC BOOK Pro being the formula is conductive and there are components way to close to heat sink! Learned the hard way on that one, desk tops its ok being that there is more room!
How do I get the rite DLP chip for my tv.
You have to look up one using the model number of your TV.
@@CubeComputerChannel I sent you an e mail
@@erickstanford519 hi I have Casio XJ-A145V HOW I CAN FIND THE REFERENCE TO BUY THE DLP SHIP FOR MY TV
Anybody know where I can find a DLP chip for a Dell M210X projector?
Dude that was amazing info! I do a lot of repairs and always believe its mind over matter in most cases! Is there a way to fix the artifacts without replacing the DLP chip? If so whats the requirements?
Unfortunately, the chips can't be "fixed". They have to be replaced if the mirrors fail.
video very helpful,working on getting new chip & paste to make white spots disappear,learn good pm& r goes along way thankyou again
A good term for those "stars and fleas" would be "artifacts". Something you'll get if you push your graphics card too hard while gaming by overclocking it too high or letting it get too hot
Excellent technical explanation. Very good video.
shopjimmy.com sells replacement DLP chips pretty cheap+tutorials for the replacement (which is not difficult, requires care is about all). ALSO, I was reassured by their (very good) support that the replacement chips are an improved model from TI, which took a pretty big hit after the 'white dot' problem showed up on the first ones.
It's because flat panels are hugely more popular, nothing else. Because not many people buy them, there isn't a push to make more sets.
thanx man awesome explaination. Ive been abusing my projector soo much...keeping it on for 9 hours plus as my t.v broke beyond repair..DONT DO THIS....KEEP IT CLEAN! AVOID TEXAS INSTRUMENTS DMD CHIPED PROJECTORS AND CHIPS.
Same here. Mine is on probably 12 hours a day. I found the projector at GoodWill for only $4, and it worked perfectly and only had 300 hours on it. After about a month and 400+ hours more of use, the DLP started to fail.
I was thinking maybe reflow!
Thanks! This was helpful. You seem like a nice person.
I got fleas. but there not on my DLP
...and those damn BenQ's as well ;)
Why do they cost so much.
use it in sensory room to calm u down :)
U suk leave him alone I bet he's smarter than u.
Thank you your video was super helpful
Samsung would replace the part at no cost for the part. the repair cost was 240$
Good info.
Bought one for 303 off amazon the other day
I have a projector viewsonic PJD6211 and into 3 years two times has failed the DMD chip inside, showing a lot of white and dark spots, that continue growing in number every day until there is all the screen full of white spots. Viewsonic doesnt care about this problem and many people has suffered this fail. A single chip has a $180 price. I hate DLPS projector and I hATE vIEWSONIC bad quality! Only 400 hours and fail repeadtly!
The chip is probably overheating from either a lack of cooling, or poor thermal transfer from the chip to the heatsink.
I have the problem with a Samsung HLT5075. Good news is that Samsung said they would honor the chip replacement for free but I would have to pay the labor. The service center wanted over 200 bucks for a 30 minute fix. BS! So I asked Samsung first if they could simply mail the chip to me so that I could do the repair. No. So I thought I would offer the service center 30 or 40 bucks to just hand me the chip. No. Assholes. Shopjimmy seems to be the best price for my chip. $50 and I'll do the repair myself. Assholes.
I just bought a 3D Smart DLP Wifi TV The same brand and its an 85' for 10000USD
The failure of the DMD chips are NOT due to heating. These are not terribly hot running devices even with no heatsink and fans. This was simply a bad run of chips about 2007. No models earlier or later have this problem.
+ohger1 Not hot running?? Really? Have you seen the 5 ounce, 2"x3.5"x1.5" aluminum heat sink they're attached to? Why bother with fans, heat sinks if they don't "need" them?
They are rated to run at a max of 75C, and they typically run less than 30 C with heat sink and fan under typical operating conditions. Working on DMD drive boards over the years show most DMD image chips don't run over 45C with just the heatsink and no fan even up to 30 minutes of run time. Heat is NOT the reason these DMD chips fail. It was simply a bad run of this one part number. Neither earlier nor later 1080P DMD chips suffer the stuck pixel problem.
I suspect the reason for the failure is too much UV gain through the lens of the DMD chip. It's possible that this particular design is inefficient at dispersing the UV heat from the front of the chip to the back heatsink, or perhaps it doesn't have sufficient UV filtering in the front lens.
I sink you right. UV filter on lamp module dying with time, and its can increase UV impact on chip
You could have just said it overheats due to poor use of thermal paste. Man to I feel like I lost some brain cells watching this. You guys really talk like that?
+R Graham not so much poor use of the paste but using a poor quality paste they knew they needed it but skimped on the product for what ever reason
Why don't they make DLP TV's anymore, could it be because they suck.
No because plasma came out and everyone wanted one dlp is still used in movie theaters hence why it still throws gorgeous color
Somone said you can clean the chip I said no you can't
I mean 1000USD
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well that guy forgot half of the friggen thermal pad on that old dlp chip
because that guy used thermal paste on the new dlp chip.
If you only use thermal paste rather than thermal tape doesn't that leave a gap between the heat sink and DLP IC on some models?
It probably left the other half on the heat sink.
DO NOT BUY A MITSUBISHI DLP TV THEY ARE A COSTLY PIECE OF JUNK
+Baby boomer Only if you dont undertand them.
Hahahahahahah