It’s not less watery, the medium just flows into recesses better. Then again, I prefer using old nuln oil still. I’m so used to the tinting of the entire surfaces that it feels alien to have clean untainted areas.
I found with Nuln Oil not to bath entire subject with it and use strategically, then I discovered and fell in love with Tamiya Panel Liner. Nuln Oil, Agrax Earth, and Sepia are still must haves for me though.
Then try AK enamel washes... those killed Agrax for me. Cheap, striking, can be washed off... Whole range of tones. Track Wash and Streaking Rust are the bomb.
Oil washes changed my whole approach to painting minis. The blends that I have been able to get with just oil washes over a zenithol base really impressed me. I've been painting minis for around 20 years. I've used all kinds of stuff for homemade washes. I've even used tattoo ink of varying colors, cheap folk art/apple barrel acrylics mixed with flow aid, there's so many great options out there. Higgins black magic ink is probably my favorite black ink that I've found and used. Great video btw!!! Keep it up!!!!
@@ataraxiapainting colors can be pretty vibrant. I used some Intenze blue tattoo ink over some boltgun/mythril drybrushing on some grey Knights way way back to get a metallic blue and it came out pretty wonderful. I mostly use just black tattoo ink for panel lining and watered down for recess shading. It serves its purpose 100%. It does have a bit of a sheen to it but that goes away with a matte clear coat.
I am a mini painter and military modellers so for me I have a huge variety of selections in my tool box. I found watered down Jo Sonja's an absolutely fantastic wash for all occasions. I still have my original citadel inks in perfect condition, even after all these decades, and Rowney Kandahar inks.
I'm also a mini painter and military modeler. Question: watered down Jo Sonja's what? I have a few of their products and not a single one would work as a wash on their own (they're mediums).
Unless you live in an area where the closest hobby shop to you is GW, and conversion rates/shipping costs make the other options 3-4x more expensive ☹️
@@weekendminis No other hobby stores around? I've found most hobby stores that carry models also carry AK and Vallejo, since those are what scale modellers use.
@@ScytheNoire also in the UK sometimes the only hobby shop in town is a GW store. it'd probably still be worth working out how much a GW paint haul would be and then see what you can get (Inc shipping) online elsewhere though
I really wish Citadel would put their products in dropper bottles like the rest of the world. I have literally said no to buying a pot because I’d rather make the color myself. I’d have dropped $4 on a dropper bottle tho.
It absolutely does. The most fun I have had with contrast paint is using it over metallic. Nazdreg yellow over silver gives a really rich gold, and Gor Grunta Fur over silver is really close to ye Olde timey Brazen Brass.
I rather have a light wash, because if its not dark enough you can always put a 2nd coat of wash. I also like paint the mid tone, then use 1st wash, then a highlight, then a 2nd wash so not being too dark lets the 2nd wash coat be perfect darkness, then follow up with highlight again, with a brighter highlight in very small areas. 2 coats of wash give your models even more depth and color variations after all is done. ;)
I'm nearly out of Nuln Oil and that's OK, because I have other options. I have the Tamiya Panel Liner in black, brown, and two shades of grey, and I'm using that more often now, and I do have oil paints, so oil washes are not out of the question either. Or I can just do paint glazes, as well. I've got my bases covered so that when my pot of Nuln Oil finally runs out? That's OK, no worries--it's all good in this hood!
Same here, I was using my 1989 Citadel Expert Paint Set yellow ink just a couple of weeks ago. Black, brown and green were all used up years ago but I still have all the others and regularly use them in very small amounts.
for those wanting to use tamiya panel liner,as a new to the hobby miniature painter i came from the gunpla hobby with hundreds of builds under my belt and my expertise being in gunpla,do not use the tamiya panel liner on bare plastic you must must must topcoat or put a varnish on it otherwise the tamiya will eat and destroy your plastic as its very caustic to abs,ps plastics
I just found your Channel and somehow i spend the last hour watching your videos insead of working 🤣. Really cool, genuine content, which made me smile a lot 😁. Thank you
I use nuln as an opposite to my edge highlights. Go right next to the highlight on hit the recess under it with a thin line of the shade the another until your desired "pop" is achieved. Bathing the entire area is easier/faster, but inferior looking.
It may just be resistance to change but I'm not fully sold on the mew nuln oil. Its much more Contrast Painty than the original, seems 'cleaner' in way whereas the old is a bit more watercolory and sort of dirtier. Ive had a few bottles of the AK enamels unopened on my shelf for about a year now... may be time to give them a try.
I have been using the Tamiya panel line for a lot of my Astra Militarum models but there are a few washes that I've not found alternatives to. I still find using agrax earthshade for some bits quite useful.
comments on 2 of the alternatives from my own experiences: //DIY washes: Getting good & consistent quality is a skill you're going to have to learn, whereas you don't need to worry with store bought products. My bottle of homemade 'filth' wash gets used on terrain, not miniatures, b/c to be blunt it's subpar compared to Army Painter strong & dark tones, which is my store bought gotos. That said, I've also had a LOT of luck with just artist inks, glaze medium, & water recently... though again it's only for folks who are comfortable to mix paints... which I just don't think is everyone in the hobby. Plenty of people still just use colors as is out of the bottle. To be frank, if there is 1 type of miniature-branded paint I would recommend a beginner to get it would be pre-made washes. Of which there are many good options other than Nuln Oil & Agrax Earthshade... so you still shouldn't be giving GW their tithe, but still I couldn't tell a newbie to make their own in good conscience.. whereas I can heartily recommend they just use much more available (& often way more affordable) craft or artist paints. // Oil washes I have cheap oils I'm dying to try, but haven't used them since I got them late last year... but the problem isn't the paint it's the thinner. Mineral spirits are HARD to store in the kind of small quantities/containers needed for use at the painting table. They melt most plastics, & the containers they do come in are HUGE. Which leads me to having to either order special containers, or scavenger hunt for a cheap, safe dropper bottle, or use glass (& I really don't want to use glass). recommend And yes, I know you can save the spirits... & I also know that involves decanting it thru multiple containers to remove the left over paint particles - that is a lot of extra effort compared to cleaning off PVA & acrylic products in my sink. All of that is, objectively, a giant PIA for me - and with all that considered - YES, they ARE harder to manage... again not because of the paint itself but because of the thinner & brush cleaner.
RE: mineral spirits Look for odorless white spirits (Turpenoid is a brand name) - these are available from art supply stores, Amazon, et al. They come in small cans and glass. Glazed ceramic and porcelain take white spirits without issue. Tin containers also are viable.
lol, you crack me up... anyways, love your content, you shoot straight and tell us like it is.. no fluff, no frills... I have several GW washes but I try not to use them if I can get away with it, same for the Army Painter washes, probably a little better than GW in my opinion.... but nobody is asking me though right lol... Oil washes are the bomb diggity though, you can accomplish some smooth ass blended shades with oils that would take hours to replicate with acrylics... and i most def agree, tamiya panel liner is amazing, it's so satisfying to watch it flow where it goes.... good stuff, thanks for sharing, keep on keepin on hun 🤘🏻
@@ataraxiapainting only trust me a little bit, I too was younger and was just learning to paint. I was using my dads old paints that were still good from the 1970s. I was using some (Testors?) Inks from the 70s, but when I ran out I bought GW and had a horrible time with it. When I asked the helpful hobbyists at the local shop, they said, " I cant teach you to use that Ink because its so bad no one can use it. Its the worst thing GW makes. But here try this technique (shown) to get the same effect, its a lot more user friendly and you can use the paints you already have. If you really want to use inks, buy (brand)"
Nuln oil is generally a speed painting crutch for me, anyway. I get much better results when I gloss varnish and then blackline/pin wash with oil, but on stuff that I just want to get done quick, I get lazy and wash the whole thing with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade. So now I guess I'll just have to do a better job all the time. Shucks.
I don't know. I have worked with a lot of paint and never had anny problems with it. I think it depents how you work with it. But if I had to pick I prefere the old 1. Because I need less off it.
also... WHY DOES EVRYTHING STILL COME IN POTS?!?! They don´t close properly, they let paint dry out, they are a pain with wet pallets, they get all over your brush and all that for no reason!!!
I really really want to use oil wash/enamels/panel liners. Only issue is i was told all of these have a chance of causing cancer which makes me avoid using them. Rly sad cause if it doesnt i would jump straight away to use them since they are so much better.
The part that upsets me the most is that its watered down nuln oil in a smaller pot for the same price. Really does not sit well with me.
I found I needed less of it than the old Nuln Oil, not sure how watered down it is, as it generally feels less watery than the old 😁
Probably has more flow improver.
It’s not less watery, the medium just flows into recesses better. Then again, I prefer using old nuln oil still. I’m so used to the tinting of the entire surfaces that it feels alien to have clean untainted areas.
I found with Nuln Oil not to bath entire subject with it and use strategically, then I discovered and fell in love with Tamiya Panel Liner. Nuln Oil, Agrax Earth, and Sepia are still must haves for me though.
Then try AK enamel washes... those killed Agrax for me. Cheap, striking, can be washed off... Whole range of tones. Track Wash and Streaking Rust are the bomb.
Oil washes changed my whole approach to painting minis. The blends that I have been able to get with just oil washes over a zenithol base really impressed me. I've been painting minis for around 20 years. I've used all kinds of stuff for homemade washes. I've even used tattoo ink of varying colors, cheap folk art/apple barrel acrylics mixed with flow aid, there's so many great options out there. Higgins black magic ink is probably my favorite black ink that I've found and used. Great video btw!!! Keep it up!!!!
Omg how’s tattoo ink?? I’m so curious now lol
@@ataraxiapainting colors can be pretty vibrant. I used some Intenze blue tattoo ink over some boltgun/mythril drybrushing on some grey Knights way way back to get a metallic blue and it came out pretty wonderful. I mostly use just black tattoo ink for panel lining and watered down for recess shading. It serves its purpose 100%. It does have a bit of a sheen to it but that goes away with a matte clear coat.
Ever since I got into oils (cheers Marco) I can hardly imagine using anything else!
I am a mini painter and military modellers so for me I have a huge variety of selections in my tool box. I found watered down Jo Sonja's an absolutely fantastic wash for all occasions. I still have my original citadel inks in perfect condition, even after all these decades, and Rowney Kandahar inks.
I'm also a mini painter and military modeler. Question: watered down Jo Sonja's what? I have a few of their products and not a single one would work as a wash on their own (they're mediums).
I do prefer the old nuln oil. I use a flat brush with short bristles which gets a cleaner look and allows me to control easier. Personal taste.
Friends don't let friends buy GW paint products.
So many superior options out there for less money.
Unless you live in an area where the closest hobby shop to you is GW, and conversion rates/shipping costs make the other options 3-4x more expensive ☹️
@@weekendminis No other hobby stores around?
I've found most hobby stores that carry models also carry AK and Vallejo, since those are what scale modellers use.
@@ScytheNoire For where I am, the nearest GW is about a 20 min drive away, but the next nearest hobby shop of any sort is 40 min away.
@@ScytheNoire also in the UK sometimes the only hobby shop in town is a GW store. it'd probably still be worth working out how much a GW paint haul would be and then see what you can get (Inc shipping) online elsewhere though
I really wish Citadel would put their products in dropper bottles like the rest of the world. I have literally said no to buying a pot because I’d rather make the color myself. I’d have dropped $4 on a dropper bottle tho.
Basilicanum gray on Metallics looks really good
Is it a contrast paint tho, isn’t it??
@@ataraxiapainting that’s correct but it works similar to a nun oil or Agrax when applied to Metallics
It absolutely does. The most fun I have had with contrast paint is using it over metallic. Nazdreg yellow over silver gives a really rich gold, and Gor Grunta Fur over silver is really close to ye Olde timey Brazen Brass.
"Unless you wanna take your time which I don't wanna do!" That speaks to my soul
Ahahha we feel the same
I rather have a light wash, because if its not dark enough you can always put a 2nd coat of wash. I also like paint the mid tone, then use 1st wash, then a highlight, then a 2nd wash so not being too dark lets the 2nd wash coat be perfect darkness, then follow up with highlight again, with a brighter highlight in very small areas. 2 coats of wash give your models even more depth and color variations after all is done. ;)
I'm nearly out of Nuln Oil and that's OK, because I have other options. I have the Tamiya Panel Liner in black, brown, and two shades of grey, and I'm using that more often now, and I do have oil paints, so oil washes are not out of the question either. Or I can just do paint glazes, as well. I've got my bases covered so that when my pot of Nuln Oil finally runs out? That's OK, no worries--it's all good in this hood!
I don’t think you are gonna buy a new one ahah 😜
Coat d'arms do a very nice black wash. It comes in a large glass jar for £2 cheaper then Nuln Oil.
Thanks for sharing this other potential solution mate!
Great video, but thought it worth saying that I bought GW Ink's back in the late 80's. I actually still have a bunch of them.
Ahah and are they still usable??
Same here, I was using my 1989 Citadel Expert Paint Set yellow ink just a couple of weeks ago. Black, brown and green were all used up years ago but I still have all the others and regularly use them in very small amounts.
for those wanting to use tamiya panel liner,as a new to the hobby miniature painter i came from the gunpla hobby with hundreds of builds under my belt and my expertise being in gunpla,do not use the tamiya panel liner on bare plastic you must must must topcoat or put a varnish on it otherwise the tamiya will eat and destroy your plastic as its very caustic to abs,ps plastics
What goes up must come down, apart from gw prices eh?
I just seen some fine caste in my hobby store. I cant belive they still make it ... I love the Nuln Oil / Agrax earth shade
I just found your Channel and somehow i spend the last hour watching your videos insead of working 🤣. Really cool, genuine content, which made me smile a lot 😁. Thank you
Ahahah nice I could distract you from work ahah I won’t tell your boss!! 🤐😂
I really love your sense of humor! :)
Oh thanks, barely aware I had one! Ahahha
I've got loads of random paint supplies, I just want to make every kind of mix I can think of and play with every kind of effect 👍😊
I use nuln as an opposite to my edge highlights. Go right next to the highlight on hit the recess under it with a thin line of the shade the another until your desired "pop" is achieved. Bathing the entire area is easier/faster, but inferior looking.
It may just be resistance to change but I'm not fully sold on the mew nuln oil. Its much more Contrast Painty than the original, seems 'cleaner' in way whereas the old is a bit more watercolory and sort of dirtier. Ive had a few bottles of the AK enamels unopened on my shelf for about a year now... may be time to give them a try.
I got myself some streaking grime and haven't looked back. Its been the best way to get your models to look dirty or rusty.
I have been using the Tamiya panel line for a lot of my Astra Militarum models but there are a few washes that I've not found alternatives to. I still find using agrax earthshade for some bits quite useful.
comments on 2 of the alternatives from my own experiences:
//DIY washes:
Getting good & consistent quality is a skill you're going to have to learn, whereas you don't need to worry with store bought products. My bottle of homemade 'filth' wash gets used on terrain, not miniatures, b/c to be blunt it's subpar compared to Army Painter strong & dark tones, which is my store bought gotos.
That said, I've also had a LOT of luck with just artist inks, glaze medium, & water recently... though again it's only for folks who are comfortable to mix paints... which I just don't think is everyone in the hobby. Plenty of people still just use colors as is out of the bottle.
To be frank, if there is 1 type of miniature-branded paint I would recommend a beginner to get it would be pre-made washes. Of which there are many good options other than Nuln Oil & Agrax Earthshade... so you still shouldn't be giving GW their tithe, but still I couldn't tell a newbie to make their own in good conscience.. whereas I can heartily recommend they just use much more available (& often way more affordable) craft or artist paints.
// Oil washes
I have cheap oils I'm dying to try, but haven't used them since I got them late last year... but the problem isn't the paint it's the thinner.
Mineral spirits are HARD to store in the kind of small quantities/containers needed for use at the painting table. They melt most plastics, & the containers they do come in are HUGE. Which leads me to having to either order special containers, or scavenger hunt for a cheap, safe dropper bottle, or use glass (& I really don't want to use glass).
recommend
And yes, I know you can save the spirits... & I also know that involves decanting it thru multiple containers to remove the left over paint particles - that is a lot of extra effort compared to cleaning off PVA & acrylic products in my sink.
All of that is, objectively, a giant PIA for me - and with all that considered - YES, they ARE harder to manage... again not because of the paint itself but because of the thinner & brush cleaner.
RE: mineral spirits
Look for odorless white spirits (Turpenoid is a brand name) - these are available from art supply stores, Amazon, et al. They come in small cans and glass. Glazed ceramic and porcelain take white spirits without issue. Tin containers also are viable.
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thanks mate!
lol, you crack me up... anyways, love your content, you shoot straight and tell us like it is.. no fluff, no frills... I have several GW washes but I try not to use them if I can get away with it, same for the Army Painter washes, probably a little better than GW in my opinion.... but nobody is asking me though right lol... Oil washes are the bomb diggity though, you can accomplish some smooth ass blended shades with oils that would take hours to replicate with acrylics... and i most def agree, tamiya panel liner is amazing, it's so satisfying to watch it flow where it goes.... good stuff, thanks for sharing, keep on keepin on hun 🤘🏻
Man I remember GW inks, did they stop making them? I still have a pot from the mid 1990s. Not good quality ink.
I remember them… not very clearly because I was pretty young at that time. I wouldn’t know how to judge them but I feel like trusting your opinion 😂
@@ataraxiapainting only trust me a little bit, I too was younger and was just learning to paint.
I was using my dads old paints that were still good from the 1970s. I was using some (Testors?) Inks from the 70s, but when I ran out I bought GW and had a horrible time with it. When I asked the helpful hobbyists at the local shop, they said, " I cant teach you to use that Ink because its so bad no one can use it. Its the worst thing GW makes. But here try this technique (shown) to get the same effect, its a lot more user friendly and you can use the paints you already have. If you really want to use inks, buy (brand)"
Nuln oil is generally a speed painting crutch for me, anyway. I get much better results when I gloss varnish and then blackline/pin wash with oil, but on stuff that I just want to get done quick, I get lazy and wash the whole thing with Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade.
So now I guess I'll just have to do a better job all the time. Shucks.
Tamiya panel liner is fantastic
I don't know. I have worked with a lot of paint and never had anny problems with it. I think it depents how you work with it. But if I had to pick I prefere the old 1. Because I need less off it.
Oils FTW
It works fine. I'm not dealing with oils.
perchè fai video solo in inglese?
Contrast black templar
also... WHY DOES EVRYTHING STILL COME IN POTS?!?! They don´t close properly, they let paint dry out, they are a pain with wet pallets, they get all over your brush and all that for no reason!!!
My dirty mind make me laugh from your last sentence 😂
Omg what did I say agahah
I really really want to use oil wash/enamels/panel liners. Only issue is i was told all of these have a chance of causing cancer which makes me avoid using them. Rly sad cause if it doesnt i would jump straight away to use them since they are so much better.
I dont like the new noiln oil
QEPD
The new nuln is awful, it gives a slightly shiny finish :-(
Must be defective, sue gw lol
@@ataraxiapainting I thought my screeching on social media might do more good 😄
Please work on your editing.. The cuts with going to black are really annoying. Ohhh and Nuln Oil isnt 6 bucks, its $15.50 for a small bottle.
If I’m not annoying, what’s the point?? Lol
Yup. The new stuff is hot garbage