Can I fix this Amiga 4000? Part 1
Вставка
- Опубліковано 8 лют 2024
- Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @gadgetuk164
or you can support the channel via / gadgetuk164
or ko-fi.com/gadgetuk164
Merch is also available - gadgetuk164.myspreadshop.co.uk/
The first of a four part series covering the repair of my Amiga 4000 motherboard which suffered lots of corrosion from a leaky battery and capacitors.
Part 2 - • Can I fix this Amiga 4...
#commodore #amiga #repair #electronics - Наука та технологія
Part 2 - ua-cam.com/video/aBR1nq336dA/v-deo.html
Persistence. A virtue or a madness? Yes! :)
I have two A4k motherboards with some battery damage producing intermittant errors. One of those has some capacitor damage in the audio port area, too. So I am currently learning how to do all of this myself! Wonderful watching you and Chris Edwards at work, so much inspiration, techniques and ideas. Thanks! :)
17:44 this montage of cleaning up those pads is sooooooo satisfying to watch. Such a massive improvement. I've seen UA-camrs skip this step no joke.
nice . multi month/year repair. I've a pacman pcb I've been fixing and taking breaks from for the past 5 years or so :D
Haha - I would like to see that video!!!
@@GadgetUK164 you and I both :D :D
I thought I was the only one who took long breaks on annoying projects. We'll get it done...... eventually.
Looking good so far. 👍
Thanks 👍
Wow that’s looking great. So sad to see an A4000 board in that state. Most of us would die to have one.😢
"Right is red* is how I remember the audio connector arrangement.
Thanks! And actually I believe its CORRECT on the 4000 - it just differs to the 2000 and possibly 3000? So when I said its the wrong way around, I dont think it is.
Obviously taking your time is always the best way Chris, but with me being lazy by nature, I've often wondered what percentage of the work might be completed by removing the socketed chips, ultrasonic cleaning the board in deoxit, and then only apply elbow grease to the areas like trace /via repair, bodge wire installation, recap & whole board reflow.
Most of the damage could be fixed that way, and if cleaned properly it may stand the test of time! I would say the biggest problem with corrosion like this and battery leakage, is conductivity can remain between nearby pins (the ultrasonic doesnt always remove everything), and traces broken. If you lose a ground or VCC rail, or two pins are bridged somewhere, faults could occur. So I would say in a case of mild corrosion that approach can work well, if you clean up and check all your ground and supply rails before testing. In a medium to bad state (like this one), that approach would end up being unreliable as connections would ultimately fail over time etc.
Nice work 🎖
Thanks 🔥
ive got 3 or 4 4000s im actively working on. they all boot at least. i have a 3000 that's thankfully not too bad of a project. I find after cleaning, sandpaper is amazing at getting rid of the solder mask and allows for easy working. those fiberglass pens arent too good i've heard. they make car painting ones that are so much better
After watching the almost miraculous resuscitation of the A3000, I have no doubt you will fix this too!
What temperature do you set your desoldering tool to?
Thanks =D 405 degress C most of the time - occasionally cranking up to 420 / 450 for those parts of the board that really sink heat!
@@GadgetUK164 Thanks! Also, could I ask...how do you manage to "tin" and solder to pads and vias that have become corroded with battery leaks and make them look new again? When I try, the solder never bonds to them.
Not sure if it is my computer but about 2/3ds of the way up the screen there is like a tearing video line when I watch it at 2x speed and there is motion there.
I replaced the horrible NiCd A500+ one with it's NiMh equivelent 3 pin 3V80H off fleabay. Being a modern battery it shouldn't die and fail spectacularly like its original commodore Nicad ones. It seems to keep the time well even when switched off for long periods. I didn't like the coin-cellbattery boards/mods because a) they don;'t self recharge when switched on and b) they usually make them with a ridiculous hard to source battery like the CR1220 which aren't readily available at supermarkets unlike CR 2032's.
You can get re-chargeable Li-Ion CR2032's - you just need to mod slightly to charge properly. But NiMh do leak too! Been there, seen that!
Why doesn't anyone make an adapter from the old 72 memory pins to a newer one?You can solder the old panels for memory and put a newer and faster memory and a larger amount of DIMM through the adapter board.
Later forms of memory tended to work differently - ie. The design is tightly coupled into the memory management side of the host system. The timing varies a lot, and the technologies changed - eg. DDR vs Fast Paged Memory, and obviously newer memory runs even faster (DDR2,DDR3,DDR4 etc). The Amiga cannot benefit from faster RAM really - the bottleneck is either Ramsey or Zorro 3 here - local RAM which can keep up with the CPU can benefit, but most of the 060 CPU cards already run pretty well optimised in those cases. Modern CPU cards for the Amiga often have local fast RAM and in those cases its fairly modern ICs!
@@GadgetUK164 Well, I don't even mean the speed of the memory. It will be faster by default because it is technologically newer. Here is the question of solving the problem of the maximum volume of modules of the old type. As a rule, with a new type of memory, the volume of the module immediately increases if you look at the trends of its development. For example, instead of several old 72 contacts of modules, you can put one of the newer PC100,PC133 series memory simply by making an adapter board and soldering it instead of the old 72 memory pin connectors.
@@TheRus13 DRAM used on SIMMs is fundamentally different than (SDR) SDRAM and DDR SDRAM used on DIMMs. That S letter mean synchronous, meaning that it uses clock signal while older DRAM did not use clock at all. In asynchronous designs any signal could change at any time. But changing inputs in synchronous logic without respecting setup and hold times in relation to the clock causes chips to glitch. SDRAM chips also need a little bit of initialization sequence at power up, which Amiga has no way of knowing about. The other complication is that Chip RAM timings are tigthly coupled with display side of things. On the other hand, using SDRAM (even DDR version) as Fast RAM is absolutely fine as long as you (as a designer) provide separate memory controller to interface between 68k CPU and said memory. It's done on CPU slot accelerators. You could have your DIMM slot on such accelerator card if you wanted to. But designers prefer to just solder the chips to the board due to mechanical constraints. There is often very little space to spare in Amigas.
Who is actually paying for all that work that goes into half rotten Amigas ? They must cost more today than back then on day 1.
Yes, they do cost more to fix than they sold for back in the day!