This is probably the best uncut send footage I've seen: the perfect timing of the "Ken Burns" pan allowing for his rest and then re-centering as he gets going again, the right 1/3 framing of Alex as he makes the ascent, the perfect flow of doing the moves making it look effortless (but then if you know how strong Alex and Will are you know that's relative). A pleasure to see, congrats!
It's the only way to do things that are this hard I think. Same thing happens at V14 and up in bouldering: unless you figure out the most efficient way to execute a move, you won't be able to do the move. This is why it very often looks "effortless" on the send go. If you compare the movement to projecting goes, there's often a slightly too dynamic approach, a small swing of the CoG, a tiny adjustment missing in the footwork, or something similarly hard to notice.
After watching this last night before bed, I had a dream about climbing with Alex... I got selfies with him in my dream on top of the wall, was so disappointing when I couldn't find them on my phone when I woke up :'( Just gonna have to get good enough to turn that literal dream into a literal reality!
I think the new standard test for "hard from the first move" is whether Alex pre-clips the first draw. What's that you say? He pre-clipped the first two draws??
To be fair, Will Bosi preclipped the first two as well when he made the ascent. It looks like a V14 boulder problem right off the ground. Simply insane
In my opinion everyone has the right to some basic safety. So long as the rope is not weighted it hardly matters. Especially with this guy who you can be certain could hold the hold while clipping.
it makes perfect sense to stay safe in sport climbing. no one has ever climbed the historic route Hubble in the UK - arguably the 1st 9a - without preclipped quickdraws. Who cares?!
Several comments about Alex making it look so easy but I think it was a lot harder than it seems. Certainly the last few moves suggested he was pretty close to the red line. What feat strength endurance.
It is very funny, because this route is 9b+ and under normal circumstances there would be a whole series of videos capturing the strugle and the details of the process. Here though it is only one video, one agle and very hard moves.
@@ritoschind2805 since he didn't post anything about a downgrade on his IG or so I see it as confirmed. But maybe he would lose some words after a few days, who knows
Very cool to see. Beautifully climbed. It's a very cool line and looks crispy as hell from the very first hold. I think there's naturally going to be big question marks over the grade for this route. Especially considering how fast Alex sent this. I mean, Alex is a beast anyway, but still. My hunch is that it will get downgraded within a year to a hard 9b, but who knows.
Would be nice to have that bolt spacing in my grade range (6c/7a). But as they are set up by stronger climbers most of the time the "ethics" are not to put bolt where you would have no risk to fall (if you are a 8a climber). So I have to climb my 20 meter 7a´s with 3 bolts and an anchor and 6 meters till the first bolt in northern germany. Nice send tho. Love to see you peaking and having fun.
If you talk about Ith, Kanstein etc. Marienau and Levegadsen (more bouldery, with some routes being like one harder move then over) have a overall decent protection. Kanstein/Bisperode have mostly good protection too, only Luerdissen/Holzen and Hohenstein have a lot of routes which are bad protected due to historical reasons (which can be argued about but whatever). First bolt can be put in with a clipstick though if it is relatively high.
Imho routes in Germany are mostly bolted by middle aged man with a high level of sexual frustration and low ability for perspective-taking. Guess why routes in France or Spain are bolted so nicely.
Amazing performance, very nice footage but why don't you wear any helmet? As an exemple followed by many you could have a big impact if you'd consider promoting helmets :)
looks like nobody has done the route yet really complete. sad. if this is the consent, then the ethics are not as rotpunkt as thought maybe to much preclipping.
it's sad that there r so many people out there who risk hard injuries just to have the balls to do a proper Rotpunkt. in your eyes not even the historic route hubble (first 8c+/arguably 9a) would count.
@@Pawe-mx9wc yeah you want hot hands and kinda dry skin but not too much and cool rock because the friction coefficient depends on the difference of temperature between the two surfaces in contact. (for razorsharp crimps you just need thick skin though)
so Didi, check out all the videos of Hubble (I reckon u know the route...) and call the ascensionsts unethical - good luck or perhaps you'll find out how misguided your comment is
This is probably the best uncut send footage I've seen: the perfect timing of the "Ken Burns" pan allowing for his rest and then re-centering as he gets going again, the right 1/3 framing of Alex as he makes the ascent, the perfect flow of doing the moves making it look effortless (but then if you know how strong Alex and Will are you know that's relative). A pleasure to see, congrats!
“Man, this is a hard warm-up. I think I’m a little pumped.”
-Alexander Megos probably
You know it's a winter send when Alex busts out the yellow hoodie instead of the yellow shirt!
1:04 the dyno is so sick!
Great!
And so cool that it is a professional video this time 😉
The dyno was so smooth
Great climbing, great filming. Love to see it
Great filming? They put a camera on a tripod on the ground and pressed record ... :D
@@masterpropper2485 Then check the first climbing footage he recorded. I see a huge improvement.
@@Thefullbeard Still far from "great filming".
How in this world you look that relaxed climbing 9b+?
It's the only way to do things that are this hard I think. Same thing happens at V14 and up in bouldering: unless you figure out the most efficient way to execute a move, you won't be able to do the move. This is why it very often looks "effortless" on the send go. If you compare the movement to projecting goes, there's often a slightly too dynamic approach, a small swing of the CoG, a tiny adjustment missing in the footwork, or something similarly hard to notice.
@@Bennici He looked extra relaxed in this video though but probably because it wasn't as endurance oriented.
Simple, because it's not 9b+
Carrots man! At least a dozen in the morning🌞
He's a beast...
Great video, no stories, no landscapes, no bullshit. Just climb.
that sequenceat 1:00-1:06 is just unreal!
Love to see Alex´s flow! He is awesome!
After watching this last night before bed, I had a dream about climbing with Alex... I got selfies with him in my dream on top of the wall, was so disappointing when I couldn't find them on my phone when I woke up :'( Just gonna have to get good enough to turn that literal dream into a literal reality!
The most casual 9b+ ever
Mega, Alex. Allein der Anfang sieht schon brutal aus und sollte uns alle daran erinnern, dass wir uns regelmäßig stretchen sollten!
Crazy man!! beatifull alex
I think the new standard test for "hard from the first move" is whether Alex pre-clips the first draw. What's that you say? He pre-clipped the first two draws??
To be fair, Will Bosi preclipped the first two as well when he made the ascent. It looks like a V14 boulder problem right off the ground. Simply insane
In my opinion everyone has the right to some basic safety. So long as the rope is not weighted it hardly matters. Especially with this guy who you can be certain could hold the hold while clipping.
it makes perfect sense to stay safe in sport climbing. no one has ever climbed the historic route Hubble in the UK - arguably the 1st 9a - without preclipped quickdraws. Who cares?!
Several comments about Alex making it look so easy but I think it was a lot harder than it seems. Certainly the last few moves suggested he was pretty close to the red line. What feat strength endurance.
Amazing strength, Would be interesting to see how quickly you would repeat la capella and bosi's Furia de Jabali
well, with regard to furia, the question is settled
It is very funny, because this route is 9b+ and under normal circumstances there would be a whole series of videos capturing the strugle and the details of the process. Here though it is only one video, one agle and very hard moves.
I kept my eye on the camera and was afraid that Alex would go out of frame
This looked so effortless, does anyone know what the crux is?
I think I remember will saying that it was the big cutloose dyno at 1:04 -will definitely made it look like a bigger deal in his vid
That was great thanks. That rock is pretty hard on the skin.
Megos makes 9b+ looks like 8a.
Sick! Would be cool to see a detailed ascent,like the one Stefano did for Bibliographie :●
No words about the grade, I‘m curious!
it's a 9b+
@@qorazx the question is, if he confirms or downgrade it
Max v4 in my gym
@@billr5842 warm up boulder ;)
@@ritoschind2805 since he didn't post anything about a downgrade on his IG or so I see it as confirmed. But maybe he would lose some words after a few days, who knows
did he just answered his phone @2:38??!?
my guess is he's warming up his fingers?
Ever thought about doing a colab with Adam Ondra? Perhaps meeting up at a route you both haven't done and see compete trying to climb the route?
What a beast!
You can hold on to the most precarious positions!
Woah, what a beast!
Sooooo casual!
Che mostro cazzooooo🙏💪🚀
Looks like he calls Bosi at 2.35 for some beta
buen pegue alex. buena vía, aunque parece un 8?
Alex how did the individual sections between your shakeouts feel from a boulder grade standpoint? Very power-tech, but made it look casual.
Very cool to see. Beautifully climbed. It's a very cool line and looks crispy as hell from the very first hold. I think there's naturally going to be big question marks over the grade for this route. Especially considering how fast Alex sent this. I mean, Alex is a beast anyway, but still. My hunch is that it will get downgraded within a year to a hard 9b, but who knows.
Uncut, the way it should be.
Yeah, Alex.
Good send! I bet no other animal on earth (other than bugs) could climb that shit lol
Nice top rope. Cant wait to see lead attempt!
Feel free to do so
@@kerbwirkung5294 Of course I do. Do you not?
Free Solo! Nothing less than that counts.
Would be nice to have that bolt spacing in my grade range (6c/7a). But as they are set up by stronger climbers most of the time the "ethics" are not to put bolt where you would have no risk to fall (if you are a 8a climber). So I have to climb my 20 meter 7a´s with 3 bolts and an anchor and 6 meters till the first bolt in northern germany. Nice send tho. Love to see you peaking and having fun.
If you talk about Ith, Kanstein etc. Marienau and Levegadsen (more bouldery, with some routes being like one harder move then over) have a overall decent protection. Kanstein/Bisperode have mostly good protection too, only Luerdissen/Holzen and Hohenstein have a lot of routes which are bad protected due to historical reasons (which can be argued about but whatever).
First bolt can be put in with a clipstick though if it is relatively high.
Add more bolts yourself lol
It looks like he added a couple long draws to make the clipping easier. Basically aid climbing
@@donkyuhbuhts540 They will get chopped by the old farts
Imho routes in Germany are mostly bolted by middle aged man with a high level of sexual frustration and low ability for perspective-taking. Guess why routes in France or Spain are bolted so nicely.
Insane!!
werry schtrong
How long did you project this for?
9 days, read the desc.
Grande👌
Hell yeah 💪💪
C`mon man, you send it like it was a 7b 😳
Wow
Amazing performance, very nice footage but why don't you wear any helmet?
As an exemple followed by many you could have a big impact if you'd consider promoting helmets :)
I just realized im eating carrots with hummus while watching this and smiled. Hope nobody saw hahaha
looks like nobody has done the route yet really complete. sad. if this is the consent, then the ethics are not as rotpunkt as thought maybe to much preclipping.
The route begins with a v14 boulder problem. It's probably not possible to clip at all from the positions if you don't pre clip.
it's sad that there r so many people out there who risk hard injuries just to have the balls to do a proper Rotpunkt. in your eyes not even the historic route hubble (first 8c+/arguably 9a) would count.
kötél nélkül kell
így érdektelen mászás, unalmas
The cold fingers make it a grade harder 💪
When its cold the grip is better
@@Pawe-mx9wc but when its too cold you lose your sensitivity in your fingers
@@Pawe-mx9wc yeah you want hot hands and kinda dry skin but not too much and cool rock because the friction coefficient depends on the difference of temperature between the two surfaces in contact. (for razorsharp crimps you just need thick skin though)
I am your fan, but clipping two (sling, quickdraw) in one bolt is unethical, unsport.
The fa by will bosi was done this way how is it unethical if he's following what came before him its not like he did three pre-clipped
Fuck haha , managed to find something "negative" ?? you should worry about your climbing skills ...
so Didi, check out all the videos of Hubble (I reckon u know the route...) and call the ascensionsts unethical - good luck or perhaps you'll find out how misguided your comment is
Effortless
he barely puts any effort