I just discovered your channel today. I was a cabinetmaker and finish carpenter for many years and have learned a lot from just the first two videos I’ve seen so far. Thank you very much for taking the time to post these videos.😀🤙🏼
How to accurately line up wall panels with holes in van. Double tipped drill bits. Using barbed burring bits to quickly hog out holes. How to do super clean rounded cut outs in plywood with a router and scraps of wood.
I am about to build out a 144 sprinter. I’m going to watch all your videos at least twice. Your content reminds me of a channel This Is Woodworking. He did a 144 build with a marine theme amazing finish product. The fabric practices and the drill bits are money in the bank oh and curing me of the 80/20 bug
Panel drills / sheet metal drills, called all sort’s around the world but the point is they have a steeper angle and therefore don’t drag threw like a conventional drill bit, should always be used as a starter hole, they also do not wonder off like a conventional drills when trying to start a hole.
Very nice work, and thank you for all these very useful tips! As a beginning woodworker attempting my first van build, I have already discovered many of the problems you mention... and have a deep appreciation of the way you have used simple strategies to get such great results! One thing I have learned: a metal blade (with fine teeth) works quite well in the jigsaw with thin plywood to minimise tearing. I don't have a table saw, but I have just got myself a router, and have hopes that this should help me get better cuts.
Green painter's tape on those panels and you can skip the hole saw, just jigsaw them with a good quality (non dull) narrow blade for tight turns, and when you pull the tape, you pull directly towards the hole, not OFF the panel, but doubling the tape back over itself, that way you don't risk pulling any fibers and making a rough spot. Light sanding and you're good to do. As well, a simple router jig can enable you to use it to cut any diameter holes or radiuses. All over YT.
Yes!!! Snagged a VT American rasp bit on eBay today. It's gonna save my a** from painstakingly handfiling some screw holes to get my panels in just right.
Great, ta. For tear-out, we use painter's tape which is excellent with the jigsaw, but gums up the router. We use poplar but it is incredibly soft, and dents, scores, and stains.
One way to prevent tearout is to using masking tape then mark out the cut out. The tape helps hold the veneer, read somewhere that cutting along the edge with a knife which will work however I find that slipping over the can be an issue. Just found your page and as a cabinet maker that has built caravans, I really enjoyed your approach and technique. Plus, I learnt a few things. Well done 👍
Thank you so much for your helpful useful tips! Any more best practices with a router is much appreciated! I'm about to build out a 2013 Ford Transit Connect Cargo that already has metal utility shelves so your woodwork curved openings on 1/4" wood will make it classy. I'm looking for best practices for no-build build components that can be easily removed and re-assembled if I need to use the full cargo van for a few days. We just got a new Ryobi router with a dozen bits or so and want to learn best practices. Can you make a video showing what bits are best for specific jobs? I'm so glad I found your channel!
Kitchen mounting cabinet screws are available. They have a wood screw on one end and a metal screw on the other. I screw them into the rivnuts and hammer the plywood against the wood screw/point end. To mark where the holes have to go.
A top to also prevent drill going too deep is to put a piece of rubber or silicon tube over the shank of the dril. This acts both as a stop and also prevents chuck damage to the face of the surface you are drilling through.
Best drill bits for steel like that are the STEP BITS from Harbor Freight. Dirt cheap and the secret is they have so much MASS by being a step bit, they don't HEAT UP AND RUIN THE HARDENING in the cutting edge. I've ruined a dozen high quality bits, from running too long and heating up, or not frequent enough application of cutting oil. SKIP ALL THAT and just use a cheap STEP BIT, you'll thank me.
I’ve been doing my cuts freehand with a jig saw. Looked like crap in the beginning but though the build I got a lot better. Was very time consuming . I do have 2 routers but really not skilled to use them. After watching this I’m going to try it . Appreciate the tips.
The router is one of those tools I continually find new uses for. I'm going to try to highlight some of those in a future video. My first router was a monster 3.5hp makita unit and it was intimidating to use...and even now I give it plenty of respect for thick wood projects. For the van though a little palm/trim router is sufficient for 98% of tasks, and its way less intimidating. The biggest thing that took me a while to make "second nature" is understanding which direction to cut...and when you mess it up it can ruin the work piece, not to mention make you crap your pants. When making tons of small cuts where sometimes the cut is in front and sometimes behind the bit it is easy to cut the wrong direction. Best of luck! Hope it helps out!
@@projectofscience When routing the inside of the hole, think of it as a clock face - go clockwise. If you're routing the outside of the clock face, go counter-clockwise. I like the idea of putting fabric on the outside of all cabinets. This will improve sound quality in the van.
Thanks for the super helpful tips! I’m so glad I found your channel. I’d love to see a video on how to make precise cuts on the van itself (for windows and max air fan). Thank you!
Thank you! Honestly for most metal cutouts the cut line is going to be hidden (by the ceiling fan or window). Using pneumatic sheers does leave a nice line, but its hard to get it perfectly straight and it doesn't do corners. So if I really need to have a nice straight line I'll do my best with a power tool and then clean it up with a flat file. But assuming it is on a van, it needs to be painted to not rust...and that is hard to match the van color...so I usually just end up priming the cut line and covering the edges with Trim Lok. Hope that helps some?
@@projectofscience thank you for the great tips! Your videos are super helpful! Please keep them coming! I am also obsessed with weight. I was planning to use. Coosa boards for floors and countertops, but your video convinced me to switch to poplar ply instead. They are the same weight and saved me a bundle! Thanks!
Well, I don't use furring strips but I attach everything with rivnuts or plusnuts. I think the logic on furring strips is sheet metal screws can vibrate loose over time, but if you use wood screws into the strips it should do better?
@@projectofscience nice, thanks for that! Your method makes the most sense. I've seen some people use rivnuts to attach furring stips, then screw the wall panels into the strips which just seems like an additional step that also costs you space.
I use a corner radius set. amzn.to/40I9eEN Mostly I reach for the yellow ones (inside radius) but the outside radius is helpful for countertop corners.
I've had good results using a knife to score a line along the cutline. There are tricks I've tried a bit using painters tape but when using a router I find they gum up the router bit, which requires cleaning...but if the piece is important I'd say cleaning would be worth it.
I'm a woodworker of 40+ years and still picked up many tips. A real pro here.
I just discovered your channel today. I was a cabinetmaker and finish carpenter for many years and have learned a lot from just the first two videos I’ve seen so far. Thank you very much for taking the time to post these videos.😀🤙🏼
How to accurately line up wall panels with holes in van. Double tipped drill bits. Using barbed burring bits to quickly hog out holes. How to do super clean rounded cut outs in plywood with a router and scraps of wood.
I am about to build out a 144 sprinter. I’m going to watch all your videos at least twice. Your content reminds me of a channel This Is Woodworking. He did a 144 build with a marine theme amazing finish product. The fabric practices and the drill bits are money in the bank oh and curing me of the 80/20 bug
how does this channel not have a zillion subs? gold. thanks man. love it
Same comment as Deltro61 below! Especially the set screws in riv nuts to mark screw locations! Pure genius.
Panel drills / sheet metal drills, called all sort’s around the world but the point is they have a steeper angle and therefore don’t drag threw like a conventional drill bit, should always be used as a starter hole, they also do not wonder off like a conventional drills when trying to start a hole.
Check out Drill Hog Cobalt bits, as well. Small US business, Lifetime Warranty, GREAT Customer Service ! 👍🏼
No affiliation, just a happy customer
That set screw tip blew my mind. Also dealing with my fabric bubbling on a curved piece.
Very nice work, and thank you for all these very useful tips!
As a beginning woodworker attempting my first van build, I have already discovered many of the problems you mention... and have a deep appreciation of the way you have used simple strategies to get such great results!
One thing I have learned: a metal blade (with fine teeth) works quite well in the jigsaw with thin plywood to minimise tearing.
I don't have a table saw, but I have just got myself a router, and have hopes that this should help me get better cuts.
Great tips….fabric tip a winner!!🏁
I read that tearout can be somewhat prevented by cutting into the pencilled lines with a blade beforehand, never tried it though.
Green painter's tape on those panels and you can skip the hole saw, just jigsaw them with a good quality (non dull) narrow blade for tight turns, and when you pull the tape, you pull directly towards the hole, not OFF the panel, but doubling the tape back over itself, that way you don't risk pulling any fibers and making a rough spot. Light sanding and you're good to do.
As well, a simple router jig can enable you to use it to cut any diameter holes or radiuses. All over YT.
You are an amazing craftsman. Love your channel even though I don’t have a van nor will I ever do the interior of one. You e got a a new subscriber.
thank you for the tips, i am in the process now, and this will save me many $$, after all we just can't afford Humble Road type rv's.
Yes!!! Snagged a VT American rasp bit on eBay today. It's gonna save my a** from painstakingly handfiling some screw holes to get my panels in just right.
Great, ta. For tear-out, we use painter's tape which is excellent with the jigsaw, but gums up the router. We use poplar but it is incredibly soft, and dents, scores, and stains.
One way to prevent tearout is to using masking tape then mark out the cut out. The tape helps hold the veneer, read somewhere that cutting along the edge with a knife which will work however I find that slipping over the can be an issue.
Just found your page and as a cabinet maker that has built caravans, I really enjoyed your approach and technique. Plus, I learnt a few things.
Well done 👍
Thank you so much for these awesome tips 💕👍🏽🇦🇺
I cringe at what the weight of some van fit outs must be 😖
Amazing video, some seriously good tips. Thank you for sharing!
new scriber here,greetings from NC,thanks for the videos man,theyre excellant
To make sure you won't get tearout on the back of the plywood, if you know where the hole is gonna be, you can use a knife to cut lines in the back...
Thanks for another great instructional video! The skills I learn here will go way beyond just van building! You have a new subscriber!
Great tips! Thank you!
Use the blue masking tape on perimeter of cut . Stops jagged edges
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Also your links are really helpful in sourcing here in the UK. Cheers
This video was very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for your helpful useful tips! Any more best practices with a router is much appreciated! I'm about to build out a 2013 Ford Transit Connect Cargo that already has metal utility shelves so your woodwork curved openings on 1/4" wood will make it classy. I'm looking for best practices for no-build build components that can be easily removed and re-assembled if I need to use the full cargo van for a few days. We just got a new Ryobi router with a dozen bits or so and want to learn best practices. Can you make a video showing what bits are best for specific jobs? I'm so glad I found your channel!
Kitchen mounting cabinet screws are available. They have a wood screw on one end and a metal screw on the other. I screw them into the rivnuts and hammer the plywood against the wood screw/point end. To mark where the holes have to go.
A top to also prevent drill going too deep is to put a piece of rubber or silicon tube over the shank of the dril.
This acts both as a stop and also prevents chuck damage to the face of the surface you are drilling through.
super. learnt a few things that will help with my build, Voila! Merci
Great helpful and thoughtful information!! Thank you
Best drill bits for steel like that are the STEP BITS from Harbor Freight. Dirt cheap and the secret is they have so much MASS by being a step bit, they don't HEAT UP AND RUIN THE HARDENING in the cutting edge. I've ruined a dozen high quality bits, from running too long and heating up, or not frequent enough application of cutting oil.
SKIP ALL THAT and just use a cheap STEP BIT, you'll thank me.
Great works, tips are very useful
great tips thanks
super useful. thank you,
I’ve been doing my cuts freehand with a jig saw. Looked like crap in the beginning but though the build I got a lot better. Was very time consuming . I do have 2 routers but really not skilled to use them. After watching this I’m going to try it . Appreciate the tips.
The router is one of those tools I continually find new uses for. I'm going to try to highlight some of those in a future video. My first router was a monster 3.5hp makita unit and it was intimidating to use...and even now I give it plenty of respect for thick wood projects. For the van though a little palm/trim router is sufficient for 98% of tasks, and its way less intimidating. The biggest thing that took me a while to make "second nature" is understanding which direction to cut...and when you mess it up it can ruin the work piece, not to mention make you crap your pants. When making tons of small cuts where sometimes the cut is in front and sometimes behind the bit it is easy to cut the wrong direction. Best of luck! Hope it helps out!
@@projectofscience When routing the inside of the hole, think of it as a clock face - go clockwise. If you're routing the outside of the clock face, go counter-clockwise. I like the idea of putting fabric on the outside of all cabinets. This will improve sound quality in the van.
Great tips!
Thanks for the super helpful tips! I’m so glad I found your channel. I’d love to see a video on how to make precise cuts on the van itself (for windows and max air fan). Thank you!
Thank you! Honestly for most metal cutouts the cut line is going to be hidden (by the ceiling fan or window). Using pneumatic sheers does leave a nice line, but its hard to get it perfectly straight and it doesn't do corners. So if I really need to have a nice straight line I'll do my best with a power tool and then clean it up with a flat file. But assuming it is on a van, it needs to be painted to not rust...and that is hard to match the van color...so I usually just end up priming the cut line and covering the edges with Trim Lok. Hope that helps some?
@@projectofscience thank you for the great tips! Your videos are super helpful! Please keep them coming! I am also obsessed with weight. I was planning to use. Coosa boards for floors and countertops, but your video convinced me to switch to poplar ply instead. They are the same weight and saved me a bundle! Thanks!
Thanks some great tips there brother, 👍🤛
Thanks for the tips! I'm starting my first build and am more woodworker than van (up) fitter.
Best of luck! It can be an overwhelming process at times but being a woodworker has always been an advantage in my opinion!
Thank You! Love That Shop.
You can easily resharpen the drill bits, don't throw them away.
Great video, thanks! What's that veneer on the plywood control panel? Looks like a black stamped pattern.
Don't BUY pointy screws, 30 seconds with a grinder with a screw in the vice and you can cut the head off and make it into a point.
Wow!!!
Thoughts on furring strips? Do you use them or go straight to the panel?
Well, I don't use furring strips but I attach everything with rivnuts or plusnuts. I think the logic on furring strips is sheet metal screws can vibrate loose over time, but if you use wood screws into the strips it should do better?
@@projectofscience nice, thanks for that! Your method makes the most sense. I've seen some people use rivnuts to attach furring stips, then screw the wall panels into the strips which just seems like an additional step that also costs you space.
What is that radius tool you used to mark the corners?
I use a corner radius set. amzn.to/40I9eEN
Mostly I reach for the yellow ones (inside radius) but the outside radius is helpful for countertop corners.
Any way to stop cheap plywood from splintering?
I've had good results using a knife to score a line along the cutline. There are tricks I've tried a bit using painters tape but when using a router I find they gum up the router bit, which requires cleaning...but if the piece is important I'd say cleaning would be worth it.
Interesting but over my head unfortunately-not a woodworker