Choosing your guitar!
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- Опубліковано 16 гру 2021
- Hi, I so often see people who tend to choose fine guitars (or not) that simply do not suit them for one reason or another, so here are some old man's musings that just might help a few folks from falling into a very common trap.
I love how much you love your guitars and how gracious you are in sharing your knowledge. ✌️👍👏
I appreciate that Geri, and thanks for watching.
Essentially informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
For me I walk into a music store, look around at all the pretty guitars, walk on out and go find a left handed dealer on the internet 😃 but lots of good info here!
Challenging, but, you will find the one(s) for you. btw - I'm left handed too.
Good video sir. You have somewhat of an analytical mindset in your videos, and I like and appreciate that in your content. Keep them coming!,
Hi Rob, how observant you are! Yes I am an analytic -helpful as a project manager for some years, and as a one to one online guitar teacher now. Thanks for watching!
Think I’ve said this before but it’s incredible how your diverse set of guitars all have that Silly Moustache sound, which you’ve made your own. As a violin player stamps his or her sound on the instrument I can hear it when you just pick a few strings be it from the Roy Smeck, the Collings and perhaps the most amazing example the Waterloo, who’s stock just keeps rising every year. Apologies for not keeping up as unfortunately my fathers condition has really accelerated.
Hi Andrew and tanks for this. I think that it s highly likely at you can identify my style over the guitars I'm lucky enough to have acquired. I'm sorry to hear about your father's health. I cared for my Dad from 1979 until 1986 when he passed. It took a lot out of me , so look after yourself as well!
excellent advice, Andy! I didn't take your advice and bought a 1930s replica acoustic guitar with a very sharp "V" neck profile. I really loved the guitar, but the neck just did not work with my smaller hands. After I made the purchase I found one of your videos about making sure that the guitar fits your hands...very true and a deep regret of mine for not taking the advice.
Fortunately, the guitar was very much in demand so I was able to sell it for a little profit. I was glad to just pass it on to someone who could enjoy playing it with a financial loss for me. Thank you so very much for sharing your advice and knowledge.
Hi, wasn't one of those replica parlour Washburns was it? I had a couple of them ad one had a very sharp V, so I shaved it down. Risky, and I could have ruined it, but I didn't and I later sold it to a happy buyer. However, best to buy what suits than to try to modify. Thanks for watching.
It was a Waterloo WL-S deluxe, 12 fret, small body, cherry wood back and sides. It plays fantastic, ladder braced, has a wonder sound.
The neck is such a sharp V it just was uncomfortable to play. I thought about having someone shave the neck, but I concluded that I was at risk to destroy the guitar.
I sold the instrument and actually made a little money because they are in such high demand. I should have viewed your video about fitting the guitar to your hands…ugh! We live and learn.
@@paulrich6307 Ah, wise! I wouldn't shave he neck of a Waterloo! I have a WL12 which has a very comfortable if slightly clumpy round "C-shaped" neck which is fine for me.
Thanks very very good tips I am from Alberta Canada seems like 95% of the acoustics are all dreadnaughts and most players even seasoned ones never think to look at the smaller ones or the 12 fret ones you got me hooked on.. Many thanks to you for that, I first started playing on a Classical and could never get used to the steel strings UNTIL you figured it out for me. So I love my 12 fret Alvarez and just picked up an old Harmony H165 all mahogany concert size with this nice thick neck and wider fret board it is a 14 fret but I love playing it they are perfect for me as I play on the couch and doodle like you say ha ha.. I will always think of you and be thankful. P.S. I was under a different name and youtube kicked me off so I am back on and subscribed and hit the alarm for you again.
Hi again Linda, and welcome back under any name!
@@SillyMoustache Thank you used to be Piper McCoy ;-)
@@lindamorgan2678 I don't understand.
That first Santa Cruz sounds amazing!
It does! Thanks for watching.
Your very informative thank you for the tips love your content thank you 😊
You are so welcome! I'm thinking of adding some short videos - "Pearls/words of wisdom" - Stay tuned!
Good advice, Andy. Unfortunately, most new guitar players wind up buying a dreadnaught, because (a) that’s what they think a guitar should look like, and (b) it can be hard to find a decent smaller guitar at a “starter” price. But a smaller guitar is often the best option for someone starting out. They fit in you lap nicely, they just seem more congeinial, and they are usually set up with lower action and lighter strings.
Absolutely! I can't change the attitudes of dealers and mass producers of cheap guitars, but I may be able to inform the few who read my humble video. I admit that my first guitars (£16 new!) was called a "jumbo" - it's all about box shifting I suppose. Thanks for watching!
Another excellent video sir
Hi tanks for e kind comment. I wish that guitar dealers would/could advise beginners better. Thanks for watching.
Complex issue. I'm older now, a smaller guitar type parlor is comfortable but it doesn't have the range my 000 has...dreadnoughts are out of the picture. I started with it and it's a cabinet on the lap...
Thanks Andy for the approach 🎶🎶🎶
Hi Nicole, I suggest that you don't regard every guitar smaller than a 000 as a parlour guitar. The 00 was clled a £grand concert" when ntroduced which mean adequate to perform to a n aufdience of up to , say 200 without amplification.
The size "0" is a "concert" and not as Eastman call it a "P" for parlour. In fact my Eastman E20-P is a particularly well rounded a full toned instrument (and I am a Collings player!) Speaking of Collings if you have the funds (and prepared to wait) check out their smaller guitar in both 12 and 14 fret incarnations - I feel tat Martin is really missing out on the designs they invented but have now totally disregarded.
Eastman may get some of it's naming wrong (their OM isn't an OM it is a 000 (short scale), but they make very good guitars. How they age over the decades remans to be seen, but that won't worry old guys like me. After all, Joan Baez didn't do so bad with her ancient size "0" guitar! Hope that helps.
@@SillyMoustache True. I love Joan Baez 0 Martin.
Thanks Andy for your reply.
Another great bit of advice. Before I could play almost anything but with age and heredity come fretting hand issues. And that nut width, scale length, and neck profile mean a lot. I play and sing for people several times a week. If I have the wrong neck, I play only a short while before it spasms and that's it for the day. So I am particular. And some are easier to have custom built than find one that works. Of course my wife said I've been playing 50 years so I ought to get something that works.
Quite true. As I have related in my video about why I prefer 12 fret guitars, I have refined my way of choosing guitars to "fit" my hands. I have had a lot of CTS issues, and am currently suffering with two trigger fingers on my left hand and slowly increasing Dupuytrens Contracture, plus the general issues of old age. I find that a deeper neck profile helps.
I’m gonna keep going back to this video if and when I go looking for another guitar. So much here but just that bit about hammer ons and pulls offs without fluffing other strings is something I wish I could turn the clock back on. Having small hands and fingers I would never had believed how mere millimetres could make such a difference. I have a sneaky feeling having gotten used to a L series neck, which seemed quite chunky and round, compared to my Brook, shallow c shape neck could also be a factor in my struggle. Between you and Michael Watts both whom I’m subscribed to, you both cover the stuff that matters most imo.
Hi, I know Michael and we have met a number of times. Were were both inspired by these person - Isaac Guillory.
After decades of playing, I've discovered (better late than never) that a 00 12 fret is home. It was a blind purchase online (not recommended kids) as.... wait for it.... I suffer from a rare condition called left hand dominance! The guitar is a low/mid priced solid top parlour but sweet toned, and one day I will seek out a higher end 00. I love that eastman of yours, alas no lefties. A pilgrimage to a specialist lefty guitar shop one day is my dream. I would fall to my knees and cry tears of purest joy at the sight of racks of lefthand guitars that I could try before I buy.
Hi, the 12 fret 00 is (to my mind) the prettiest and best balanced design that Martin ever came up with. However, many seem to think that it is a parlour and the shorter scale will not suit all. I simply cannot understand why Martin have discontinued all 12 fret guitars. I am also of the left handed persuasion, but play righty as you see. (didn't think it was a choice back in the "olden" days). I hope you find your dream, but you might need to find a small lutier who would build one for you.
@@SillyMoustache thanks Andy, my gran had her left handedness suppressed by the end of a teachers ruler! I have a hunch an awful lot of finger/melodic style players given the chance would be converted to 12 frets. Martin do make the lovely and pretty affordable 000 15SM 12 fret all mahogany OM, if I'm right it's full scale which may take away some of that sweetness you get with a shorter scale 12 fret? Collings make some jaw dropping small body guitars don't they? I can dream.
I have three acoustics, all small bodied and all approximately 24.75” scale length, so that tells you something about my preferences as a guitar student and noodler. I also have three electric guitars, and each time I pick up my Fender Mustang it’s so much more playable than any of the other guitars it feels almost like cheating!
Hi Ron, thanks for your comments. i
For the most part my guitars chose me! They came along when I wasn't particularly in the market for one. The only one I selected was the old Washburn parlor guitar I have form long ago...
Hi Joel, I guess i's a matter of whatever works for you. I confess that I have become a collector and have developed a nose for "stalking" the next one. Not convinced there will be any more tough - I've run out of room!
@@SillyMoustache As I remember it, no wonder! You can always trade to get new ones! Although I still have wants, I guess I'll stay with those I already have...
A bit late for me but very useful to those who catch this in time.
I think we all make mistakes, but that just opens further opprtunities.
Thanks, Silly.
Most welcome!
for me, it was always the SOUND... until I learned about Furch guitars....
Hi, thanks for watching.
An invaluable "Must listen" for all guitarists no matter their degree of proficiency (or NOT) ! Had I been made aware of these important factors when I was starting I'd have been saved not only discomfort but a bucket-load of money. Thank you Andy. Now where's my next (and for a change) correct guitar?
As a matter of interest, Sir, do you ever used a stool/chair when performing? If you do, or have determined factors in relation thereto, can you advise on a "best choice(s) for guitarists" ?
Hi, remember I learnt this stuff by making every mistake I'm warning about ! thanks for watching.
Yes good points. I have small hands so scale length really makes a surprising difference in terms of stretching fingers. A wide nut is fine but just a slightly smaller scale length say 24 3/5 is so much easier to play. So anyone reading this with small hands those mm (fractions of an inch) distance between the frets do make a surprising difference. The music shop people may dismiss this, but then they probably have larger hands. If in doubt ask to play a Gibson or Eastman based on Gibson shape.
... 24.75 typo!
Thanks for making this point.
My first steel string acoustic was a Fender dreadnought but I found it too big and uncomfortable to play although it sounded nice. That was about 40 yrs ago. But now I play a small Yamaha APX 5A which although not full sounding is very comfortable especially when practising for long periods.
Thanks for sharing! Tools for the job I guess.
Just get one of each size and shape 😉
It may seem like that ... HNY
I think it depends on how you sit with your instrument. I play fingerstyle and have always sat on a classical sitting position. Regardless of the instrument size, my shoulders are always straight and whether it is a 12 fret or 14 fret instrument my fretboard hand is never extended away from the instrument. I own two instruments, a Waterloo WL-12 and a Waterloo Jumbo King. Actually, sitting in this position, the Jumbo feels more comfortable. and the 00 feels a bit too small. And I'm not a large person. I am considering buying a Martin 15 series mahogany instrument for a different tonal flavor. It is between the 000 and a dread naught. I think both would work fine in this sitting position. And while I prefer a 24.9" scale length, I can do a 54.4" scale length. And maybe mahogany need this since the top isn't as sensitive as a spruce top.
Hi, thanks for your observations.
So many thoughts in this video that I would like to comment! Thank you very much for sharing!
I am a fingerstyle player and I do like bigger guitars - if they respond well to a lighter touch. I mostly play them sitting on my bed with my legs crossed. I guess you can call it a kind of Yoga :)
No back problems so far.
When you start buying guitars you actually have no idea which neck profile or nut width suits you best. My guitars are quite different in that respect, ranging from 1 11/16th (PRS Parlour) over 44mm (Gibson J35) to 44,5 (Guild M20) to 45mm (Faith Mars). Actually, I haven't quite made up my mind which one is best for me. It is sometimes difficult not to buzz a string on my 1 11/16th guitar but on the other side the neck is "fast". I get through some difficult parts in songs better than with my Faith Mars that in addition to the wide nut also has a chunky neck. I suppose the 44mm nut width of Gibson is a good compromise.
Should fingerstyle players use dreadnaughts? I found that the round shoulder dreadnaughts are versatile enough for all kinds of music. I also tested Martin's dreadnaughts and found them 2nd best for fingerstyle. But my first acoustic guitar was a square shoulder dreadnaught, a Kazuo Yairi. I still have it and I reserve it for open D tuning. It has the rich overtones and sustain that this body shape is known for. For ragtime oriented music, it would be too muddy. But for pieces with a droning rhythm (Vestapol, Das Loch in der Banane), a thick carpet of overtones is just beautiful. Square shoulder dreadnaughts are so much connected to flatpicking that it is completely out of focus that also fingerstyle players can benefit from the rich overtone profile that some of them have.
Hi, not sure what you mean when you say "round shouldered" dreadnoughts - are yuo refering to the original dreadnoughts - the 12 fret ones like mone (by Collings) or are you referring to Gibson style jumbos? (which aren't dreadnoughts) - and tend to have shorter scales than real dreads. )riginal dreads, tend to be more evenly balanced that 14 fretters which are bass biased.
@@SillyMoustache I am actually referring to the Gibson style jumbos, not the old 12 fretter dreadnaughts that Martin built for Ditson. Sorry about the confusion. The Gibson jumbos are commonly referred to as slope shoulder or round sholder dreadnaughts although that might not be quite historically correct.
@@thomasgaida7174 Hi, you are right of course, and you can observe this confusion, in te websites of some builders who should really know better! See :
ua-cam.com/video/AD3RKNNl4cE/v-deo.html
So much to think about here Andy and only now do I fully understand and appreciate what you’re on about? It really pains me to say that the 12 fret Brook Taw that I showed you via email has been such a massive change from Yamaha LS6 that it’s had the effect of turning me off playing for some time now. Sound wise it’s a dream but had I done a little homework on the forum I would of read that whilst Brook guitars sound superb, they are known for having a shallow neck, almost electric guitar style in nature, which suits some folk but I’m sure has been the source of my struggles with the guitar. I have a feeling the string spacing is too narrow causing me to hit unwanted strings and fluff my picking, which seemed easier on my Yamaha (should not of sold that guitar). Being as my playing was very much similar to what you do, which is to strum and pick out individual strings and bass runs I have a feeling that my English folk style guitar which I think you said was based on the Martin 000 being smaller than my previous OM. I can’t help wondering if this guitar is very much a finger pickers dream but just not cut out for the boom chick country type playing that I so love?
One things for sure is that I won’t lose anything on the guitar should I sell it but I do feel a bit for silly for not recognising all f this prior to purchase.
Hi Andrew, I'm sorry to hear that your Brook doesn't suit you. I speak from similar personal experiences - a Martin J-40, a Martin J-12-40, and a superb Bourgeois ds260 - all failures to my hands. It can be frustrating, but it seems that you are on track to finding the guitar that fits you. The hunt can be as good as the prize! Happy new year!
Thank you for this. What do you consider the best "all around" type of guitar? I am 5' 8" and an intermediate player, strumming and fingerstyle. I can only have one guitar near my couch and want to upgrade from my Taylor 114. I have been thinking a d-28 was the best choice but I am not so sure any more.
Hi Alan, I don't think there is one single all around" design, but I do know many who manage with a dreadnought or an OM (i.e. the "usual suspects")
Frankly, as I prefer wider fretboards neither would be ideal for me for fingerstyle.
As an old bluegrasser, I tend to perform (flatpicking) with my 12 fret dreads and my 12 fret Collings 0002h is, I guess, my nearest to an all rounder.
So, as mentioned in this video, it is a matter of your playing style AND what is most suitable for your hands.
Guess I'm weird as I like to put the guitar on my left knee(I'm right handed) and never noticed if one shoulder is higher than the other...
Hi Gianni, I don't think you are at all weird - you have chosen a posture which is similar to what classical guitarists and many acoustic jazz guitarists use, also my long tern sideman. Thanks for watching.
You have some beutiful instruments but I'd love to know your thoughts on really cheap guitars. I bought a Harley Benton dreadnought from germany for €90, off the internet. It's of course plastic instead of bone, composite wood instead of solid wood. Still, it sounds like a guitar and plays decently well.
Hello Max,
I have no direct experience with Harley Benton guitars but I do know that they retail for exceptionally low prices. I do not know of the materials or the accuracy of the construction. I hve run an Acoustic Music club since, I ink, 2006, and I welcome all who would wish to play for `15 minutes, or less as they choose. Until "the plague" I also visited other clubs and local "open mics" and I can tell the quality of the sound of guitars without seeing them. Not all expensive guitars sound great, and some less expensive guitars sound ... "OK" , but some really cheap guitars sound pretty awful, at least to my ear. I'd prefer not mention any brands but there are some that seem to have little or no acoustic resonance and you tend to hear just the strings, as if they were strung on a plank.
The "law of Diminishing Returns " which really mean that you need to pay increasingly more for increasingly less quality.
There is apparently there is a guitar builder in the USA whose prices start at $20,000 and whilst they are, I'm told, very fine, I play one once and it was ...OK.
I've also played a prewar Martin dreadnought (someone's pension plan) and was disappointed, whilst I own two Eastman guitars which continue to delight me.
In the mid '60s my first guitar cost me £16 new. My second £32, and my third (an American built Harmony) was £64. For all its shortcomings, l loved that Harmony and I kinda miss it still, and it seems tat that particular model has become a collectors item- there is one for sale on Reverb for the equivalent of £1400.
The most important thing is that whatever you buy, you are able to play it comfortably and it brings you joy. If and when it doesn't -work out what it lacks for you, and find another that renews tat delight.
I hope that helps.
I’ve been picking up my takamine dreadnaught more and have been experiencing neck pain, I consider my torso a bit small- 12 feet does seem more comfortable,
Hi, Dreads are great for fronting a combo, or presenting to an audince, but when seated, at home etc .. a little too big. Try a smaller guitar for playing seated etc.
@@SillyMoustache I have an Ibanez artist works OM I keep out and available, it’s not precious but sure keeps in tune
@@christianbond1561 whateer works best for you - is best.
What would be a great guitar, regardless of price( I’m old and have worked and saved my money) for noodling, flat picking and beginning finger style while playing seated? Is there a one and done solution? Thank you.
Hi Alex, in short, there is no one perfect answer for all. As I rtied to illustrate in this video, it is a matter of finding a guitar that suits your hands, your body, and your ears. As yu will see from my other videos, I play Eastman guitars, which are relatively low priced for the quality offered, and I also play Collings and Santa Cruz guitars, which are hellishly expensive (and currently challenging to find). To my mind Collings are ... "perfect", and make a better version of the great Martin and Gibson designs. I' can only suggest what I have done, so as I've changed from "performer" to home based teacher and UA-camr. - whilst I love the power and projection of my Collings dreadnoughts, I#d suggest that you investigate Eastman guitars in their E10/20 - P and/or 00. These are small bodied guitars, with wider fretboards which for me and many other find easier to fret. If the necks feel too fat for you investigate the so-called "OM" Eastmans, with noticeably thinner necks (n.b. - I've known people to struggle with thinner necks initially).especially if you have thicker fingers - or fingertips. If you find one of these that suit you then at a later date you could choose to buy more expensive versions by Collings, Santa Cruz, Martin and many other brands. If you'd like to meet up via zoom, to enable me to see how you play, demonstrate these variances, please contact me - my email address is at the bottom of my "about" page. Regards,
@@SillyMoustache Thank you SM, so much for your timely and thoughtful response to my question. I will be in touch. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.
@@alexmcmurtrieSits Hi, look forward to hearing from you, Andy
Hello, I am considering buying an acoustic guitar. I am a pure novice and would be learning and practicing chords. Finger picking does not seem likely at this time. Having watched many "best guitar" for a beginner, I am inclined to select a narrow, thin neck low action guitar. Does this seem reasonanble?
Hi Odin (what a cool name!) I'm a little concerned that you are looking for a "thin neck". This "may" or "may not" suit you. Neck widths are commonly measured by the width of the nut. (The white thing at the top of the fretboard where the strings pass over to the tuning machines.
The standard "thin" width is 1 & 11/16" or 43 m/m - This is where I have seen many people finding difficulty fretting strings without "fluffing" the neighbouring strings, so when selecting a guitar, be sure that you can fret first position chords cleanly. If not looking for a guitar with a wider "nut" may make things easier for you.
The action - i.e. height of the strings above the frets, normally measured at e 12th fret IS adjustable by a technician, usually be adjusting the height of the saddle (the other white bit which sits in the Bridge (black/brown lump on the top. However, no new guitar should really need that. an Ideal "medium" height for the strings is about 2.4 m/m on the 6th string (thickest one) and 1.6 m/m on the 1st string (thinnest one). However don't worry too much about these measurements initially. See 3:30 in the above video. Ask more questions if you wish.
Last point - Don't get sold a dreadnought or a jumbo to learn on - too big and uncomfortable for most.
@@SillyMoustache Thanks for the quick reply and helpful information. I Because I am such a novice, my use of the technical language is inexact. I believe that I am referring to the radius of the neck; a larger radius makes the neck thicker. It is clear that I need to go to a store and get some in person guidance and try on some guitars before making a purchase. Thanks, again.
@@DrCarlRogers Odin, guitars with thin necks are often described as having “fast” necks, for reasons I can only guess at. Acoustic guitars usually have thicker necks that electric guitars because the strings on acoustics are typically heavier than the strings on an electric. Heavier strings put more tension on the neck, so it has to be built with some beef to keep it from warping, even if the neck has a truss rod (a metal rod running down the center of the neck).
Thinner necks are not necessarily better. For a novice, a thin neck may make it easier to fret some chord shapes, but a thin neck can also make you feel like your hand is a little cramped up. A thicker neck should not be a deal breaker. I learned on a Martin D-28 that did not have a truss rod and therefore had a neck that was pretty “clubby.” I have small hands, and I had no issues with it. When I move over to one of my electrics the thin neck feels a bit wierd--sort of like fretting a yardstick. A thicker neck just feels right to me. But in the end, this is entirely a matter of personal preference, so try different shapes and see what you like. Ignore the advice of people telling you what you should like.
BTW I am told, but don’t quote me, that Taylor guitars are known for their fast necks. Taylor, of course, is one of the biggest guitar makers in the world, and while their instruments are not to my taste, I have found they make some very respectable guitars at entry level prices. Also, if you really want a very thin neck consider learning on an electric guitar. You can get a perfectly fine one for a couple of hundred dollars, you can put super light strings on it and set it up with very low action, which your fingers will appreciate while you are building up callouses. Also electrics often have small bodies which makes them a lot more congenial to play than a big ol’ honkin’ dreadnaught. Just a thought.
Good Luck
MM
@@mountainman4774 Thanks for your sage wisdom. I was considering and acoustic, like a Yamaha based on reviews. The after more observations and comments, I began to consider an electric guitar. I have no fantasies of shredding, simply playing melodical tunes that I enjoy. Still pondering and vast sea of guitar specifications. Thanks again for your help.
@@DrDuaneLundervold Your welcome. Don’t get too hung up on reviews and specs, especially if you go electric. Electric guitars are, well, electric, so they have a highly processed sound. Frankly, I think the sound you get out of one comes from mostly from your amp settings. Specs are a bit more important if you go acoustic, but frankly the best advice I can give iyou is to buy the guitar that speaks to you and makes you want to play it.
The way you said "sexy" made me deeply uncomfortable hahaha
Oh, I do apologise!
I love how much you love your guitars and how gracious you are in sharing your knowledge. ✌️👍👏
Thank you.