Great introduction. If I may I would like to add a little bit. The grain drill you are looking at is a single disc opener for the seed to fall in. Others may have double disc or even a hoe opener. In addition to the bearings the discs can be worn out, to small in diameter. The method of raising and lowering that drill is commonly called a trip clutch, it uses a cam to engage the lift gear. The drill has to be moving to lift or lower the drill, the real down side is if you get stuck. You didn't go into it in much detail but the steel crank on the front adjusts the spring tension and that determines seed depth. One of the drills I use is junk, but, for me anyway, it works in planting a grass seed and companion crop mix. I patched the rusted seed boxes with plastic from a cut up 5gal bucket and self tapping sheet metal screws. The seed cups and drop tubes are long gone and most of the openers are froze. The seed mix falls on the ground. The ground has to be well tilled and weed free,. Behind the drill I pull old box spring materess that do a good job of covering the seed . The "cultipacker" is two 6 inch pipes as wide as the drill welded about 4 feet apart. Not pretty but it works. No one messes with that junk pile I can leave in out in the field. It works great as a place to post a no tresspassing sign. If someone shoots it up who cares, duct tape can fix the holes. Fertilizer can also be ran through the seed box if someone wanted to do that. I look forward to seeing what you end up with and seeing you put it to work. Thanks
Hey Scott, thanks for the valuable feedback. When you really think about it, all we are trying to do it get seed in the ground to grow, period! I am seeing the prices of used drill going up, a lot right now, ugh...
Thank you so much for this precious information. I felt overwhelmed shopping around for a used seed drill but now I am 100% confident thanks to your video! Great job!
So glad it helped! That is really all I want to do, share my experience and knowledge with others to help them anyway possible! Thank you for the kind comment.
To cover the seed pull a cultipacker behind the drill, or use the chains that were in the fertilizer box to close the slits where the seed is deposited. Very informative video.
this was a great and very helpful video i appreciate the time you spent making both of these videos that addressed the difference between the planters and then what parts to inspect before purchasing. i have 100 acres here in Texas and my father has an old drill that we never use because he said one side simply doesn't work... well just like you i have researched the no till method for a long time from dr grant and know its my best bet to get things to grow here since the soil gets so hot and we go so long between rains in the summer. i am extremely excited to get back down to my farm and start going through our drill with the information you provided here thank you sir!
Hey Kevin, thank you for the feedback. I can only imagine how hot it gets down there in the summer, and with sandy foodplots, ugh. I hope your dad and you can get that planter working, that would be great to get your no-till project going at minimal cost. Keep us updated!
Thanks For the INFO. i just got a international McCormick almost just like the one one on the video. Mine is in great shape and has no rust and the fertilizer box is great. Thanks Rick
Excellent info. I wouldn't have thought about disc bearings or greasing the wheels for the trip home. Take a slow moving sign with you too if it doesn't have one.
Yes, good description and very helpful. I've been renting a no-till drill from local farm supply for past few years to drill new seed into my hayfields and pasture and wondering whether a no till like this one (perhaps with a cultipacker behind it) might work for my purposes and be more convenient (as the one i rent is often out when I need it).
A few of the drills I have looked at had a hitch welded on to pull a cultipacker, which would be great. I think if you have light enough soil, this would work just fine.
Wow, finally someone made a video for us poor food plot makers, I have all the small equipment for my Kubota b3300su, I have been discing, cultivator, perfecta, throwing my seed, then cultipacking then dragging to get my food plots done, I only do 5 acres on a back 40 acres, what equipment could I eliminate if I got one of these and like you, mine would have to be rope actuated as I have no rear remotes on my tractor, I subscribed and am looking forward to more videos professor!
Hey Michael, I had a BX2200 with all the attachments before the John Deere. I got rid of the rototiller and spreader once committed to no-till foodplotting. Currently have the drill, sprayer (did not use it this year), and brush hog for property maintenance. For the driveway I have a back blade, box blade, and snow blower. All the best to you! Let me know if you have any more questions.
Ok, that drill was made to be used on a well prepared loose seedbed so the loose soil falls back on the seeds. There are a couple of possibilities that come to mind. Add a loop of chain to drag behind each drill or pull a roller or cultipacker behind the drill. A peck is 1/4 bushel or two gallons dry measure (268 cubic inches per gallon as opposed to 231 cubic inches for liquid measure) You should know that unless you grew up with the much simpler metric system.
Thanks for the matter of fact explanations and points to consider. Apart from the main drive chain, the cam on the seeder and the wheel bearings, are there other shaft or disc lubrication points to check? We will be requiring occasional seeding to oversow grasses with legumes and other grass species so sharing this info’ is appreciated. Cheers, Gary
It's very rare that I finish out a video that's more than 10 minutes, you're very good at it, it was a lot of information and I'm very interested in one of those now, I've only got one in a third acre but I'm wanting to do some feed plots
Hey Stephen, thank you, those are kind words. Food plots are great, as long as you have all the other higher priority features in place, like cover, trails etc... All the best to you.
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I know where an older Oliver grain drill is for sale for $500. Seems to be in decent condition. I have used the co-ops no till drill in the past on hayfields and been spoiled. Do you think the Oliver is worth looking into? It has actual rubber tires and not the old metal wheels of course lol
Assuming you have light soil, I would say if you are mechanically inclined, and have time, and enjoy working on equipment, then yes, it is worth looking into the Oliver, especially at that price. You might want to check parts availability before purchasing, too. Otherwise, renting the co-op drill is still a really good option if you can work with their schedule, and transportation is not an issue. Good luck!
Most GRAIN DRILLS do not have wheels, but there are some if you look around enough. Most of them either have nothing, or will drag a chain behind the disc to close it up. As a reminder, grain drills are supposed to be used on a prepared seedbed, where it has been disked and the ground is open so wheels are usually not necessary as it is very easy for the soil to collapse back in the seed channel.
Have you planted chufa with your grain drill? Looking at buying a drill but have had mixed answers on chufa. Some people say they will some say they wont
Hey Chris, when you drop it down to the soil a lot of the weight of the planter is sitting on the springs, which push the discs into the soil. If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try again.
By the way a Peck is a quarter Bushel. A bushel is eight gallons so a Peck is two gallons. Bushels and Pecks are both dry measurements and many Apple Orchards sell Apples by the Peck or Half Peck.
Hey Elias, from what I have seen, most of the grain drills have large enough gears and openings to plant corn. BUT, if you are considering one, take a few kernels of corn with you and drop them in to see if they fit through the gear and opening without getting crushed. All the best to you.
Hey G Money, nope, I don't know the specific year/model, the drill is back at my buddies house now. Next time I'm over there, I'll see if we can find something on it and let you know.
Hey Kris, good idea. I have seen a few drills with a hitch welded on the back to pull the cultipacker concurrently with the drill. One pass. All the best to you.
@@theback40 just go to harbor freight tools and get one of the cheap machines watching videos on UA-cam and that's how you can start I started with one of those now I can will up to 1 in
Good comment, thank you. I noticed later that this one had chains in the rotted out fertilizer bin that I could have hooked up behind each disk. All the best to you.
That is a great question. What I have seen so far is there is no standard pricing to reference relative to the location and condition of the drill. What I have done is set my budget, and when I find one in good enough condition for my mechanical skills (which are low), I'll make an offer and if accepted, I'll consider that a "good price". I suspect this will be in the $500-$1500 range. Buy from a used equipment dealer, will probably be at the high end. Buy at an auction or from a direct seller that really wants to get rid of it, might get the same quality drill at the low end of the price range.
Hey Pierre, good question for which there is not an easy answer. Generally in the $500-$5000 range, depending on size, configuration, and condition. Best thing to do is start looking in your local area to see the going prices. Set up your search criteria and then turn on alerts at www.tractorhouse.com, facebook marketplace, and craigslist.
@@theback40 the fertilizer boxes on ours were rusted out so we ended up using fertilizer hoppers on the front of our Farmall H attached to the front cultivators to lay down the stuff
Great introduction. If I may I would like to add a little bit. The grain drill you are looking at is a single disc opener for the seed to fall in. Others may have double disc or even a hoe opener. In addition to the bearings the discs can be worn out, to small in diameter. The method of raising and lowering that drill is commonly called a trip clutch, it uses a cam to engage the lift gear. The drill has to be moving to lift or lower the drill, the real down side is if you get stuck. You didn't go into it in much detail but the steel crank on the front adjusts the spring tension and that determines seed depth.
One of the drills I use is junk, but, for me anyway, it works in planting a grass seed and companion crop mix. I patched the rusted seed boxes with plastic from a cut up 5gal bucket and self tapping sheet metal screws. The seed cups and drop tubes are long gone and most of the openers are froze. The seed mix falls on the ground. The ground has to be well tilled and weed free,. Behind the drill I pull old box spring materess that do a good job of covering the seed . The "cultipacker" is two 6 inch pipes as wide as the drill welded about 4 feet apart. Not pretty but it works. No one messes with that junk pile I can leave in out in the field. It works great as a place to post a no tresspassing sign. If someone shoots it up who cares, duct tape can fix the holes. Fertilizer can also be ran through the seed box if someone wanted to do that. I look forward to seeing what you end up with and seeing you put it to work.
Thanks
Hey Scott, thanks for the valuable feedback. When you really think about it, all we are trying to do it get seed in the ground to grow, period! I am seeing the prices of used drill going up, a lot right now, ugh...
Thank you so much for this precious information. I felt overwhelmed shopping around for a used seed drill but now I am 100% confident thanks to your video! Great job!
So glad it helped! That is really all I want to do, share my experience and knowledge with others to help them anyway possible! Thank you for the kind comment.
Just want to add to the comments saying thank you for making this video. It was very informative.
Thanks for the kind feedback. All the best to you.
To cover the seed pull a cultipacker behind the drill, or use the chains that were in the fertilizer box to close the slits where the seed is deposited. Very informative video.
Thanks for the feedback and for the tips!
"How it works"
MAGIC! Great explanation 😂
Thanks! All the best to you.
this was a great and very helpful video i appreciate the time you spent making both of these videos that addressed the difference between the planters and then what parts to inspect before purchasing. i have 100 acres here in Texas and my father has an old drill that we never use because he said one side simply doesn't work... well just like you i have researched the no till method for a long time from dr grant and know its my best bet to get things to grow here since the soil gets so hot and we go so long between rains in the summer. i am extremely excited to get back down to my farm and start going through our drill with the information you provided here thank you sir!
Hey Kevin, thank you for the feedback. I can only imagine how hot it gets down there in the summer, and with sandy foodplots, ugh. I hope your dad and you can get that planter working, that would be great to get your no-till project going at minimal cost. Keep us updated!
I really appreciate you took the time to make this video. I just got this exact drill, and this helped me tremendously
Hey Zach, thanks for the feedback. Good luck with your new drill!
Thanks For the INFO. i just got a international McCormick almost just like the one one on the video. Mine is in great shape and has no rust and the fertilizer box is great. Thanks Rick
That's great Rick, I really like that planter, and suspect you will too. Good luck with it, and all the best to you.
Very well done video. Good camera work and informative. Very helpful as I was looking what would be best for my food plots as well. Thank you.
Thanks! All the best to you.
Thanks for the information on the grain drill I’m new to farm equipment.
Hey Harvey, thanks for the comment. All the best to you.
Excellent video. I learned a lot.
Thanks, glad I could help. All the best to you.
Excellent info. I wouldn't have thought about disc bearings or greasing the wheels for the trip home. Take a slow moving sign with you too if it doesn't have one.
Hey Jay, good idea, I missed that one!
Yes, good description and very helpful. I've been renting a no-till drill from local farm supply for past few years to drill new seed into my hayfields and pasture and wondering whether a no till like this one (perhaps with a cultipacker behind it) might work for my purposes and be more convenient (as the one i rent is often out when I need it).
A few of the drills I have looked at had a hitch welded on to pull a cultipacker, which would be great. I think if you have light enough soil, this would work just fine.
Wow, finally someone made a video for us poor food plot makers, I have all the small equipment for my Kubota b3300su, I have been discing, cultivator, perfecta, throwing my seed, then cultipacking then dragging to get my food plots done, I only do 5 acres on a back 40 acres, what equipment could I eliminate if I got one of these and like you, mine would have to be rope actuated as I have no rear remotes on my tractor, I subscribed and am looking forward to more videos professor!
Hey Michael, I had a BX2200 with all the attachments before the John Deere. I got rid of the rototiller and spreader once committed to no-till foodplotting. Currently have the drill, sprayer (did not use it this year), and brush hog for property maintenance. For the driveway I have a back blade, box blade, and snow blower. All the best to you! Let me know if you have any more questions.
Ok, that drill was made to be used on a well prepared loose seedbed so the loose soil falls back on the seeds. There are a couple of possibilities that come to mind. Add a loop of chain to drag behind each drill or pull a roller or cultipacker behind the drill.
A peck is 1/4 bushel or two gallons dry measure (268 cubic inches per gallon as opposed to 231 cubic inches for liquid measure) You should know that unless you grew up with the much simpler metric system.
No metric system here, just a bad memory! Thanks for the info on the drill. All the best to you.
Thanks for the matter of fact explanations and points to consider. Apart from the main drive chain, the cam on the seeder and the wheel bearings, are there other shaft or disc lubrication points to check? We will be requiring occasional seeding to oversow grasses with legumes and other grass species so sharing this info’ is appreciated. Cheers, Gary
Hey Gary, each drill is different, so check the disk bearings to see if there is a zirc for lube. All the best to you.
Great info sir, thanks for sharing & Merry Christmas!!
Thanks Robert, and Merry Christmas to you, too!
It's very rare that I finish out a video that's more than 10 minutes, you're very good at it, it was a lot of information and I'm very interested in one of those now, I've only got one in a third acre but I'm wanting to do some feed plots
Hey Stephen, thank you, those are kind words. Food plots are great, as long as you have all the other higher priority features in place, like cover, trails etc... All the best to you.
You are awesome!!!!! This is exactly the info knead looking for. Guys like you are hard to some by so thank you so much!!
You're welcome. Hope it helped. All the best to you.
Really great information thank you much
Glad it was helpful!
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I know where an older Oliver grain drill is for sale for $500. Seems to be in decent condition. I have used the co-ops no till drill in the past on hayfields and been spoiled. Do you think the Oliver is worth looking into? It has actual rubber tires and not the old metal wheels of course lol
Assuming you have light soil, I would say if you are mechanically inclined, and have time, and enjoy working on equipment, then yes, it is worth looking into the Oliver, especially at that price. You might want to check parts availability before purchasing, too. Otherwise, renting the co-op drill is still a really good option if you can work with their schedule, and transportation is not an issue. Good luck!
Good info. And thorough. Thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! I hope it was helpful.
@@theback40 Definitely helpful. I just watched it again. And saved it. Thanks again.
Thank you for the info
You bet, hope it helped!
Nice job well done and informative.
Thanks Tom, glad it helped. All the best to you.
isnt there supposed to be back wheels to cover the planted seeds after opening the ground with the discs?
Most GRAIN DRILLS do not have wheels, but there are some if you look around enough. Most of them either have nothing, or will drag a chain behind the disc to close it up. As a reminder, grain drills are supposed to be used on a prepared seedbed, where it has been disked and the ground is open so wheels are usually not necessary as it is very easy for the soil to collapse back in the seed channel.
@@theback40 ah I see, thank you for responding
Very interesting. Thank you
Sure thing!
Great video I so need one!
Thanks! Be patient, keep looking, one will pop up sometime that meets your needs. All the best to you.
Have you planted chufa with your grain drill? Looking at buying a drill but have had mixed answers on chufa. Some people say they will some say they wont
Hey William, no, I have never planted chufa, so I am not familiar with the seed size. All the best to you.
Great video
Thanks Chris! All the best to you.
Hook a log chain from one side to the other to close farrows behind you
Good idea, thanks for taking the time to comment. All the best to you.
Thanks your a big help
Sure thing Lynda! All the best to you.
Clear but how does that spring on top create enough pressure to send disc down?
Hey Chris, when you drop it down to the soil a lot of the weight of the planter is sitting on the springs, which push the discs into the soil. If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try again.
By the way a Peck is a quarter Bushel. A bushel is eight gallons so a Peck is two gallons. Bushels and Pecks are both dry measurements and many Apple Orchards sell Apples by the Peck or Half Peck.
Hey Brad, thanks for the info! All the best to you.
Thank you !!!
Sure thing George. Good luck in your quest to learn about no-tilling, I think it is the future for all farming and food plotting.
Most have chains to drag behind the rows to fill in with dirt
I should have mentioned that. Thanks for the heads up. All the best to you.
Witch of the grains are good for corn?
Hey Elias, from what I have seen, most of the grain drills have large enough gears and openings to plant corn. BUT, if you are considering one, take a few kernels of corn with you and drop them in to see if they fit through the gear and opening without getting crushed. All the best to you.
did you ever come up with what model this is?
Hey G Money, nope, I don't know the specific year/model, the drill is back at my buddies house now. Next time I'm over there, I'll see if we can find something on it and let you know.
@@theback40 thank you.
Run a cultipacker, over field if you only have single wheel
Hey Kris, good idea. I have seen a few drills with a hitch welded on the back to pull the cultipacker concurrently with the drill. One pass. All the best to you.
The fertilizer box wouldn't rot if it's rinsed out after each use...
Hey Jay, right, but the farmers of old must not have cleaned them out after use? All the best to you.
I jusy got one and i will weld a pipe or something aomit cover the grai
Wish I had welding skills!
@@theback40 just go to harbor freight tools and get one of the cheap machines watching videos on UA-cam and that's how you can start I started with one of those now I can will up to 1 in
@@pedritoc.c.t.665 I'll have to check that out, thanks for the idea.
drag a chain harrow or culipacker behind drill at same time, seeds will get covered
Good comment, thank you. I noticed later that this one had chains in the rotted out fertilizer bin that I could have hooked up behind each disk. All the best to you.
What price is good.
That is a great question. What I have seen so far is there is no standard pricing to reference relative to the location and condition of the drill. What I have done is set my budget, and when I find one in good enough condition for my mechanical skills (which are low), I'll make an offer and if accepted, I'll consider that a "good price". I suspect this will be in the $500-$1500 range. Buy from a used equipment dealer, will probably be at the high end. Buy at an auction or from a direct seller that really wants to get rid of it, might get the same quality drill at the low end of the price range.
@@theback40thank you for the info and getting back to me.
Average prix of grain drill?
Hey Pierre, good question for which there is not an easy answer. Generally in the $500-$5000 range, depending on size, configuration, and condition. Best thing to do is start looking in your local area to see the going prices. Set up your search criteria and then turn on alerts at www.tractorhouse.com, facebook marketplace, and craigslist.
good video, and Roll Tide!
Hey Vic, I'm a day late on this, but Go Blue! Whew, that was a close one....
Yes it was. good luck in the Natty.@@theback40
Thanks, we're going to need it!@@vicmurphy1180
I believe this is a 1948 Model M
Thanks Dave, I'll let my buddy who owns it know this. I really like that thing.
@@theback40 the fertilizer boxes on ours were rusted out so we ended up using fertilizer hoppers on the front of our Farmall H attached to the front cultivators to lay down the stuff
@@McKinleyDave Good idea Dave. The Farmall sounds like fun!
Rideover it w a 4 wheeler or vehicle.
Hey Edward. Good idea, would make it more fun, too. All the best to you.
I didn’t buy mine I got farmer friend gave me for free I’m fixing
Hey Zac, that's great! I really like old drills, once reconditioned, they are rock solid. All the best to you. You owe your farmer friend a beer!
Very good job. Thank you
Thanks Greg. All the best to you.