Repairing Cast Aluminum With Brazing Rods And A Torch
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
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Cast aluminum repair with a brazing rod and a torch. Me attempting to repair cast aluminum with an aluminum brazing rod and a torch. Hope you learn a lot in this video. thank you for watching and all of you support!
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The commercials make this look easy, tbh i've had the same frustrating experience with these, getting some sheet hot enough to warp and start melting.
Congrats on the 1k subs bro!
Thanks man!
The aluminium frame is a huge heat sink. You need to concentrate 90% of the heating to the left of the joint from below. When you are happy it is at temperature apply the rod without taking the flame away. Also clean the joint beforehand with a stainless steel wire brush.
@Neil or someone.. I've been watching videos preparing to attempt torch/stick welding a cast aluminum small engine intake.. One ear broke off where bolt goes through.. I know the importance of getting the whole area hot, cleaning, pretty sure Not Suppose to rapid cool either like he did ??
But my main thought has been when watching people weld back together cast pieces with a machined flat side with holes for through bolts.. If the fast dissipation of heat aluminum has is one of the main problems when welding aluminum.. Would bolting a piece of steel to it help ?? Especially in my case or even in his case maybe clamping a piece of steel to it ? It seems logical, the steel would keep the heat even, hold it, prevent fast cooling..
Thank You in advance to anybody who give some input on this.. 👍
@@swalowit you can try that for sure. As long as there is access for the filler metal to flow into the joint.
More importantly, you need to keep the temperature below 650 degrees Celsius otherwise the casting will turn into a puddle. In my experience these small aluminium castings can be tricky to repair especially if it is a cheap Chinese item.
@@gracejones5531 Thanks man.. yeah for sure it's a cheap Chinese item.. in fact I could just purchase a new one for like $10 and I probably will end up doing that if I use the engine in Drift Trike build.. but I just wanted to see if I can accomplish fixing it.. 👍
Thank you for the heads up on the temperature.. I have a handheld thermometer for reading surface temperature.. I'm assuming I should use my acetylene torch over propane ?
@@swalowit I would be inclined to use oxy/acetylene with the smallest size nozzle capable of heating the area you are repairing.
The biggest challenge is not overheating the component and it collapsing into a molten mess.
The vice is taking a lot heat from the aluminum. Plus your piece is really thick. Throw it in your grill for a few hours.
I have also seen people use ceramic tiles between the vice and part so the vice doesn't absorb all the heat. I have used these myself with great results, although it was 1/4" rod that I was brazing together.
There is also a metal that it looks like aluminum but in fact is antimonium but that shouldn't be the problem and to make sure is not steel stick a magnet to if it does it is steel if not is another metal like aluminium also the bronze works in all kind of metals
In all cases, it looks like you need flux. Especially in that last "soldering" rod: those pinholes are a sure sign of poor shielding. With proper flux, the molten aluminum will flow readily into the joints.
nice content
Don't cool aluminum with water it will crack! It must cool slowly.
I wonder if the same method could be used to repair an aluminum Mossberg 500 receiver.😁
Not hot enough.
Not applied correctly.
Not cooled correctly.
Not removed of oxidization.
This was never going to work sorry!
Then teach!
What name and brand rods u using wit the flux on it
Really should change the title to "NOT Repairing Cast Aluminum with Brazing Rod and Torch". Interesting to see what problems you can run into 1st hand is rare inside the "perfect dime stack" welding UA-cam-sphere. Keep making content bro. There are people out there like myself who appreciate real world results even if your "dime stack" weld looks more like you just sneezed on your project. Lol. (Yes i know this was brazing not welding but same applies)
...and maybe change the intro music? Anyways... Good luck my friend.
dont pour water on it, let it air cool. pouring water on it will only stress it and cause it to crack.
The problem i found even if you follow the handy comments below is the rods melt at the same temperature as the job depending on metallurgy . Welding is tricky if it's not your profession, don't ask me how l know .
Most of the heat is going into the vise. Move the weld area farther away from the vise. Clamp from the other end of the project so the heat stays at the repair weld area.
I was thinking this, insulate from the vise.
It's probably not aluminum. I bet it's magnesium.
Must wire brush while hot to break surface oxidation before applying the rod
amazing stuff
I agree with Neil Marshall 💯 fan that flame back n forth over the whole piece you are brazing heat up the whole thing before you start your rod and I saw alot of orange in your flame/ add more oxygen so it's more blue. The orange flame will make black carbon on your metal that won't make a good weld/ it's too dirty. It has to stay perfectly clean. When your metal piece is all up to temp you can fine tune your torch to a small flared blue flame to zero in on your weld.
I seen a guy heat the entire piece in a BBQ first and weld while the whole piece was hot.
Aluminum will melt at red heat dude, but preheating the piece isn't a bad idea.
do not use this music again at began.
THUMBS UP to you Oleg! Thanks for posting this because it is super instructive to know what doesn't work. I think I would have prepped the part, bevel the edges, use soolvent as you did and get your wire brush ready, Then pre-heat the whole piece to as hot as your kitchen oven will get, then quickly and carefully take it to the garage and apply heat with the torch and keep brushing it. I would use Hobart rod as it seems to be the best. I am also subscribing to your channel because you helped me with the casting I'm about to solder.
I had that trouble trying to weld up a crack on my 5.7 litre Chevrolet LS1 V8 engines oil pan in my 2002 model Holden VY SS Commodore which is the same as the Australian built Pontiac GTO oil pan as both cars were built by Holden in Australia.
I knew that I wasn't going to get enough heat into the oil pan so I got a local welder to TIG weld it for $60 AUD in December 2018 & it hasn't leaked oil ever since then.
You could watch this video for some pointers on aluminium soldering :-
ua-cam.com/video/bGGoD8OuvYM/v-deo.html
Did you figure this out? I'm about to try to braze my boat drive and looking for pointers. The research I've seen says you need to use certain chemical to clean it and use flux to help it bond to the old metal
That's exactly what led me here. I'm curious to know if low-temp brazing rods will work to fill and re-bore bolt holes on a cast aluminum outboard casing. Was really hoping this video would demonstrate a similar situation.
Since it appears your comment was posted 7 months ago... Have you since made any attempts? How did it work out?
@@TonyGingrich no, it won't hold. You need to weld it. Most likely Tig, might get away with mig using a spool gun. You might consider just going a size bigger if you need to rethread bolt holes. Probably save you a lot of headache lol good luck
Get your whole piece your working on real hot then braze stick it in the oven at 475 for 20 mims
I’ve repaired worse with blue demon rods. You gotta back away a lil bit and use the tip of the flame. Go slow heat up 2” around the area.
I appreciate that I didn't work so some of realize what can happen.
Second rods you got are for use with a stick welder, the first one just doesn’t seem like it’s getting hot enough.
can you tell me what music piece you're using for this video?
The first piano piece when you where doing the clean up is what I'm seeking.. Thanks
Who died? Sounds like wake music .
The music drove me away.
NOT HOT ENOUGH HAVE IT TIG ITS HARD WITH OXY
It looks like steel... ?
Those 02 tanks last like 10ins