I didn't search for this, nor have I ever been interested in enlarging photos in a darkroom...and yet here I am, watching this video with great interest.
I never enjoyed using the easel so instead I made a wooden board 8x10 painted white with a retaining ridge on 3 sides to lock the paper in place. I then created two masks that drop in on top of the paper. One gives me a 6x9 image on 8x10 paper and the other a 7x7. The masks also help flatten the fiber matte I print on. Rubber feet on the bottom 4 corners help keep the unit in place and not easily slide out of position once the composition is decided. Works like a charm.
Amazing, I got started printing last week and this was very useful - made me realize my grain focuser was, well, not in focus at all haha. Thanks a lot for the content.
I love your videos and this one is no exception. My Kaiser system V enlarger has the density adjustment feature. I use it only rarely but would not be without it.
I really enjoy watching your videos, your style of presentation, the tips, technical details and explanations. In the late 80s and early 90s I got into photography after my love for aviation got a little too expensive. Took a break from darkroom work (mostly color) about 12 years ago but now, getting close to retirement, I keep getting this urge to once again lock myself up in a dark room, listening to some good music, the lovely smell of the chemicals, the quiet hum of the fan and the gurgling water in the Jobo. Fortunately I still have a dedicated room and all the gear but this time around it will be strictly black and white; no more bumping into walls because now I can use a safe light. My main challenge: water temperature because the coldest I can get out of the faucets is about 28C. Thanks for all the effort you put into the videos.
Nice intro to the basic tools of the trade, John. Lots of argument over the years if you should put a piece of your enlarging paper under the grain focuser, but I've always worked that way because it makes sense to me that critical focus can only be achieved at the actual plane of focus, the surface of the paper.
Nice comment, Alan. I did some personal tests a few years ago and found that my Micromega was better without but that's maybe because it's not well aligned.
Enjoyed that John. Sometimes it pays to stop and take stock. Clearing out the way all the gear amassed of which I am guilty. I'm working on film speeds and timing as per you FX-55 series & looking forward to picking up tips on how to make my printing reach the next level. So please do continue making these valuable resources. Wishing you well.
The Omega C700 & C760 doesn't have a density adjuster, but it does accept three light attenuators that cuts down the light by 1, 2 or 3 stops. You can't stack them, but it's a good addition to have. I do like the dial that the Magnifax has better though!
In the Durst enlarger line, little formats enlargers don't have density filtering on their color heads, starting at model M800/M805 and up they do have. It's really simple to ad some neutral density filtering on a simple 3 channel filter head by simply adding the same value on all 3 channels, for example adding 50Y 50 M 50C. if you want also to be able to increase the amount of light you simply make your basic filtering by starting with a dialed in neutral filter figure. So for example standard setting normal grade on a multicontrast paper could be 50Y 90M 50C
Great comment, thanks. I especially like the last setting with some extra magenta. Useful when using pyro to counter the effect of the softening yellow/green stain on the highlight values. I need to do a video in that.
One correction, John: Magnifax enlargers (all versions) will handle negatives up to 6x9. I normally use my Magnifax 3a (and hopefully will replace it some time in the future by 4 or 4a) with 6x9 negative carrier, even though I enlarge only 6x6 negatives. And one information from my side: I have had Meopta 2 blade easels and was so frustrated with the inability to achieve perfect right angle that I designed and have manufactured a custom easel - CNC cut wooden base with CNC drilled holes for stoppers that will let me enlarge my 3 most used paper sizes (24x24, 30x30 and 40x40) and corresponding maska made out powder coated steel plate cut with laser. It is so comfortable, easy and fast to use that I would not swith to the standard easel anymore. I would show you some pictures, but it is not possible here on youtube. If you wish, I can send it to you by email or on Facebook - just do let me know.
si tengo la opemus 6a con cabezal color 4-es y lo bueno que descubri que sacando un poco el porta negativos para afuera salen 2 rayas y son para enfocer algo curioso en esas ampliadoras genial la suya tiene lo mismo lo he visto en el video son geniales ademas Durts son mas caras y dificil encontrar recambios un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
Until I get my custom made LED Multigrade head on my ancient Omega D-II I still use my DUNCO 67 for 135 and 120 film printing with a multigrade head, and it has a density control with a logarithmic scale. The head runs on halogen bulbs… The enlargers are still made but I'd actually would have preferred to get my hand on a Magnifax 4 again, as I have used these in the 1980ies and 1990ies until I stopped printing (which I took up again in 2015). German made DUNCO enlarger are hybrid, they have a mixing box combined with a condenser lens, go up to 6x7, have a great variety of negative holders (glassless and with AN glass) but they do not offer truly full 6x7 but something like 5.7cm x 7cm. Unfortunately they are difficult to properly align (that's why I love my old old beast of an Omega) and - even worse - are easily thrown out of alignement, especially at the lens stage… The Magnifax is a beast but quite sturdy…
I love that you call the Magnifax a beast! It really is. I also got my first Magnifax 4 in the 90s I think. Previous to that I used a big Vivitar VI. Your German Dunco sounds interesting, being hybrid. But the Omega D2, now that would be awesome in my darkroom. I'd even take up 4x5 :)
@@PictorialPlanet well it is REALLY old, it is a D-II (not D2) from US Army stock, the guy I got it from had it bought in the 90ies. It doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, no crank and - good for me - the column is not exceptionally high because my darkroom cellar is 200cm high, only. I needed to replace the inner wiring (aluminum!) from say the late 40ies. The rarely show up here in Germany, but much more modern variants (D-2 or D-6) I had to let go by because of space requirements. A friend of mine (creator of MAYA f-stop timer) is currently designing the LED head for it as replacement for the condenser head. It will require some sorting out some intermediate grades via printing of step wedges and compare contrast with the non-LED prints but f-stop printing and manual splitgrade should work out of the box. I did start enlarging 4x5 with a Liesegang Rajah IV (condenser enlarger, another true beast) which I cheaply converted to LED with a light panel (and Multigrade filters under the lens), mainly because the condenser head was so tall I had to print on my knees… When I finally took up printing again I was quite unhappy to have donated my Magnifax IV to a local school just some years prior.
question about the micro mega grain focuser. I have one but I am having trouble - when I focus to make sure it's focused on the easel - its blurry on the micro mega. and when I focus for it being sharp on the micromega - its blurry on the easel. what am I doing wrong!?
@@PictorialPlanet yes. But is the focused Iimage supposed to look the same amount of focus on the angled part of the focused and the easel? How is that possible if they are at two heights?
Yes, it should be in focus at the edges. If it's not then the film plane is not level with the easel plane i.e. something's not true in the enlarger alignment. How does it work? Ask a physicist, I have no clue.
I didn't search for this, nor have I ever been interested in enlarging photos in a darkroom...and yet here I am, watching this video with great interest.
That's awesome, HJ! Thanks for stopping by :)
I never enjoyed using the easel so instead I made a wooden board 8x10 painted white with a retaining ridge on 3 sides to lock the paper in place. I then created two masks that drop in on top of the paper. One gives me a 6x9 image on 8x10 paper and the other a 7x7. The masks also help flatten the fiber matte I print on. Rubber feet on the bottom 4 corners help keep the unit in place and not easily slide out of position once the composition is decided. Works like a charm.
That sounds top notch, my friend. Inspiring for viewers to make their own.
Thanks, have been in a lull, your site is motivating me to get my darkroom up and running.😊
Great to hear! Go for it!!
Amazing, I got started printing last week and this was very useful - made me realize my grain focuser was, well, not in focus at all haha. Thanks a lot for the content.
Thanks for watching, Lucas.
I love your videos and this one is no exception.
My Kaiser system V enlarger has the density adjustment feature. I use it only rarely but would not be without it.
Thank you, Jon! And thanks for telling us all the the Kaiser System V has a density adjustment. It'll help people choosing their hardware.
Very good and the fact that you explain the reasons behind the choices is of benefit, as this helps to understand what these pieces of equipment do.
Thanks, Dave!
Thanks John, looking forward to the series.
I really enjoy watching your videos, your style of presentation, the tips, technical details and explanations.
In the late 80s and early 90s I got into photography after my love for aviation got a little too expensive. Took a break from darkroom work (mostly color) about 12 years ago but now, getting close to retirement, I keep getting this urge to once again lock myself up in a dark room, listening to some good music, the lovely smell of the chemicals, the quiet hum of the fan and the gurgling water in the Jobo. Fortunately I still have a dedicated room and all the gear but this time around it will be strictly black and white; no more bumping into walls because now I can use a safe light. My main challenge: water temperature because the coldest I can get out of the faucets is about 28C.
Thanks for all the effort you put into the videos.
What a lovely comment, thank you. I hope you can stay close to my videos and enjoy some memories as I go through my techniques. Cheers, OC!
The Durst Modular 70 multigrade head has a density control. Jolly useful, particularly when dealing with a thin negative.
Good to know and yes, very useful :)
Another great video... Thanks. Also great timing for this series. I am putting together a new darkroom now that the kids are moving out.
Awesome, Gabriel! That's going to be such fun :)
You always have some interesting details, that I find very helpful.
Thanks Geir!
Nice intro to the basic tools of the trade, John. Lots of argument over the years if you should put a piece of your enlarging paper under the grain focuser, but I've always worked that way because it makes sense to me that critical focus can only be achieved at the actual plane of focus, the surface of the paper.
Nice comment, Alan. I did some personal tests a few years ago and found that my Micromega was better without but that's maybe because it's not well aligned.
I agree but use inkjet photo paper for a spacer instead of light sensitive paper just for convenience.
Enjoyed that John. Sometimes it pays to stop and take stock. Clearing out the way all the gear amassed of which I am guilty.
I'm working on film speeds and timing as per you FX-55 series & looking forward to picking up tips on how to make my printing reach the next level.
So please do continue making these valuable resources. Wishing you well.
Cheers Dave!
The Intrepid enlarger timer.control unit (Compact 35mm-to-6x9, and 4x5 Kit) has a brightness control when in B&W mode (but not in dichroic).
Good to know
The Omega C700 & C760 doesn't have a density adjuster, but it does accept three light attenuators that cuts down the light by 1, 2 or 3 stops. You can't stack them, but it's a good addition to have. I do like the dial that the Magnifax has better though!
Nice to know, CF. I do love my Magnafax ❤️
In the Durst enlarger line, little formats enlargers don't have density filtering on their color heads, starting at model M800/M805 and up they do have.
It's really simple to ad some neutral density filtering on a simple 3 channel filter head by simply adding the same value on all 3 channels, for example adding 50Y 50 M 50C.
if you want also to be able to increase the amount of light you simply make your basic filtering by starting with a dialed in neutral filter figure.
So for example standard setting normal grade on a multicontrast paper could be 50Y 90M 50C
Great comment, thanks. I especially like the last setting with some extra magenta. Useful when using pyro to counter the effect of the softening yellow/green stain on the highlight values. I need to do a video in that.
One correction, John: Magnifax enlargers (all versions) will handle negatives up to 6x9. I normally use my Magnifax 3a (and hopefully will replace it some time in the future by 4 or 4a) with 6x9 negative carrier, even though I enlarge only 6x6 negatives.
And one information from my side: I have had Meopta 2 blade easels and was so frustrated with the inability to achieve perfect right angle that I designed and have manufactured a custom easel - CNC cut wooden base with CNC drilled holes for stoppers that will let me enlarge my 3 most used paper sizes (24x24, 30x30 and 40x40) and corresponding maska made out powder coated steel plate cut with laser. It is so comfortable, easy and fast to use that I would not swith to the standard easel anymore. I would show you some pictures, but it is not possible here on youtube. If you wish, I can send it to you by email or on Facebook - just do let me know.
I'd forgotten that the Magnafax can enlarge up to 6x9! Your easel sounds awesome!
Great video. I have density filter on my Durst cls 500.
Good to know, Johan. An invaluable addition I think you'll agree.
si tengo la opemus 6a con cabezal color 4-es y lo bueno que descubri que sacando un poco el porta negativos para afuera salen 2 rayas y son para enfocer algo curioso en esas ampliadoras genial la suya tiene lo mismo lo he visto en el video son geniales ademas Durts son mas caras y dificil encontrar recambios un saludo desde BARCELONA ESPAÑA.
I recently stumbled on an Omega 4x5 enlarger. Has 3 different density functions in the colour head
Thank you, Marcei! Good to know.
Very helpful, thank you.
Thanks Morris!
My Durst L1200 also has a density adjustment
Good to know. Thanks for sharing, Kevin.
Until I get my custom made LED Multigrade head on my ancient Omega D-II I still use my DUNCO 67 for 135 and 120 film printing with a multigrade head, and it has a density control with a logarithmic scale. The head runs on halogen bulbs… The enlargers are still made but I'd actually would have preferred to get my hand on a Magnifax 4 again, as I have used these in the 1980ies and 1990ies until I stopped printing (which I took up again in 2015). German made DUNCO enlarger are hybrid, they have a mixing box combined with a condenser lens, go up to 6x7, have a great variety of negative holders (glassless and with AN glass) but they do not offer truly full 6x7 but something like 5.7cm x 7cm. Unfortunately they are difficult to properly align (that's why I love my old old beast of an Omega) and - even worse - are easily thrown out of alignement, especially at the lens stage… The Magnifax is a beast but quite sturdy…
I love that you call the Magnifax a beast! It really is. I also got my first Magnifax 4 in the 90s I think. Previous to that I used a big Vivitar VI. Your German Dunco sounds interesting, being hybrid. But the Omega D2, now that would be awesome in my darkroom. I'd even take up 4x5 :)
@@PictorialPlanet well it is REALLY old, it is a D-II (not D2) from US Army stock, the guy I got it from had it bought in the 90ies. It doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles, no crank and - good for me - the column is not exceptionally high because my darkroom cellar is 200cm high, only. I needed to replace the inner wiring (aluminum!) from say the late 40ies. The rarely show up here in Germany, but much more modern variants (D-2 or D-6) I had to let go by because of space requirements. A friend of mine (creator of MAYA f-stop timer) is currently designing the LED head for it as replacement for the condenser head. It will require some sorting out some intermediate grades via printing of step wedges and compare contrast with the non-LED prints but f-stop printing and manual splitgrade should work out of the box.
I did start enlarging 4x5 with a Liesegang Rajah IV (condenser enlarger, another true beast) which I cheaply converted to LED with a light panel (and Multigrade filters under the lens), mainly because the condenser head was so tall I had to print on my knees…
When I finally took up printing again I was quite unhappy to have donated my Magnifax IV to a local school just some years prior.
question about the micro mega grain focuser. I have one but I am having trouble - when I focus to make sure it's focused on the easel - its blurry on the micro mega. and when I focus for it being sharp on the micromega - its blurry on the easel. what am I doing wrong!?
Have you focussed the hairline aid in the viewfinder by adjusting the eyepiece?
@@PictorialPlanet yes. But is the focused Iimage supposed to look the same amount of focus on the angled part of the focused and the easel? How is that possible if they are at two heights?
Yes, it should be in focus at the edges. If it's not then the film plane is not level with the easel plane i.e. something's not true in the enlarger alignment. How does it work? Ask a physicist, I have no clue.
hola si mi ampliadora es una meopta 6a con cabezal de color 4ES y si tiene lo mismo ese medidor de densidad de luz..
Great enlargers!
Thanks John, very much appreciated this video 👍🏻
You're welcome, Jason! Glad you could join us.
My enlarger doesn't have a way to clamp in the film. It just sits inside.
No negative holder to keep the neg flat?
@@PictorialPlanet No. You close the top of the enlarger and then that's what keeps it flat. Either that or I am using it wrong. Not a fan.