Once it is tilled, you can experiment with the tractor speed when making your hills. Slower speeds will result in your hill height being low and going faster will result in a higher hill. As least in my case because my bedder is heavier and it just naturally pulls more dirt. Plus you can also adjust your height with the 3 point hitch. I've been gardening since the late 90s. I've made just about all my gardening implements. I have the bedder-hiller, single shank subsoiler, a 6 shank cultivator ( for weeds) and I have an attachment for my weed eater and it's a little 9 inch cultivator. I like to work smarter and not harder. So, do I still pull weeds by hand, you ask, around the plants I do. I have also planted a row and skipped a row and just tilled between the rows. Happy gardening to you!!! Remember, trial and error.
Making ours as soon as we get the materials in. Looks like a nice set up. Hopefully the steel 2x2 tube will hold up to my husband tractor. Were in Florida so our soil shouldn't be a big problem.
On two row tractors your row spacing is from center of tire to center of drawbar . Your sweeps are back of disc and not digging in ground . They are used to clean the alley . You need more weight . This also work one row tractors .
I agree that you should probably raise the disks up a bit. It also easier to bed right behind a disk harrow. Cut a piece of ground & then bed as a test.
Yea, I think you'll need to plow the ground first before trying to hill it up. That way the soil is already loose and broke. I like the idea you had and I to have been wanting to make my own style implement. After all, if you have the know how and the equipment, might as well try.
I have no idea on gardening but may need to buy a Kioti soon to start learning. I'm debating if to get the 2610 or larger tractor for brush hogging and road repairs. This is cool saw another of your videos before this one.
Not to sound negative, you would have better results if it was tilled first and then make your rows. I made my own bedder as well and made it with 4 inch channel (heavier) so that it pulls more dirt.
I like what you did, I would have worked up ground before making beds as beds would have worked up nicer & straighter bc it would have pulled easier. I really like your fasteners that connect holler shafts to tube. Did discs turn/move at all?
HI Don't know if you will see this now that it is over a year. I saw in the video that the tines were not low enough to go in the ground. Just adjust your set up so they can go in the ground at least 5". Your disc seem to be going lower than your cultivator shares do. Hope this helps Greg B.
Did you make or purchase your hiller disc? If you made them where did you find the bearing assembly? I have already started making a hiller but I can’t find the bearing and housing. Thanks
I think you would get better beds and it would be easier on your implement, if you either disked or tilled the area you are going to make rows. Unless you are going to plant the entire field at the same time, just till and bed the area you are going to use now. I do not see any reason your implement should not work just fine. Good job.
Once it is tilled, you can experiment with the tractor speed when making your hills. Slower speeds will result in your hill height being low and going faster will result in a higher hill. As least in my case because my bedder is heavier and it just naturally pulls more dirt. Plus you can also adjust your height with the 3 point hitch. I've been gardening since the late 90s. I've made just about all my gardening implements. I have the bedder-hiller, single shank subsoiler, a 6 shank cultivator ( for weeds) and I have an attachment for my weed eater and it's a little 9 inch cultivator. I like to work smarter and not harder. So, do I still pull weeds by hand, you ask, around the plants I do. I have also planted a row and skipped a row and just tilled between the rows. Happy gardening to you!!! Remember, trial and error.
I finally tried the bedder I built and worked good. I did not use the ubolts but used a pipe with 2 set screws to hold my disc.
Making ours as soon as we get the materials in.
Looks like a nice set up. Hopefully the steel 2x2 tube will hold up to my husband tractor. Were in Florida so our soil shouldn't be a big problem.
Thanks for sharing especially the failures, am inspired
I'm glad you enjoyed
@@meadsoutdooradventuresthanks for sharing this video. May I ask where you bought the black framed tractor/carport from?
@@stevensaxon8888I purchased it from Lowe's
On two row tractors your row spacing is from center of tire to center of drawbar . Your sweeps are back of disc and not digging in ground . They are used to clean the alley . You need more weight . This also work one row tractors .
I agree that you should probably raise the disks up a bit. It also easier to bed right behind a disk harrow. Cut a piece of ground & then bed as a test.
Yea, I think you'll need to plow the ground first before trying to hill it up. That way the soil is already loose and broke. I like the idea you had and I to have been wanting to make my own style implement. After all, if you have the know how and the equipment, might as well try.
I have no idea on gardening but may need to buy a Kioti soon to start learning. I'm debating if to get the 2610 or larger tractor for brush hogging and road repairs. This is cool saw another of your videos before this one.
Mine is the ck3510se and glad I went with it. The hydrostat transmission takes some power away from the tractor.
@meadsoutdooradventures This is Cutweldngrind, I ended up getting the ck2610 and now looking at getting a bedder made. Cool setup.
Thank you! Enjoy the new machine. I have almost 200 hrs on mine and haven't had any issues.
You should raise the discs some to allow the sweeps to go more into the soil !
Thanks for the tip. I think the ground was so hard the sweeps just bounced along the top.
Not to sound negative, you would have better results if it was tilled first and then make your rows. I made my own bedder as well and made it with 4 inch channel (heavier) so that it pulls more dirt.
This year I did tilled first, and your right it was better. Thank you for your constructive criticism.
Sometimes failure points are good. Saves a more expensive part
I agree with you 100%. The problem is the part that broke never was tight enough to work properly, so I had to reinforce it.
I like what you did, I would have worked up ground before making beds as beds would have worked up nicer & straighter bc it would have pulled easier. I really like your fasteners that connect holler shafts to tube. Did discs turn/move at all?
After I made the upgrades, the disc's didn't move at all. I plan to use the tiller next year.
I made a 2 section bedder that is attached to my 6 foot rototiller that does 2 beds in the same pass while rototilling. Much more efficient.
HI
Don't know if you will see this now that it is over a year.
I saw in the video that the tines were not low enough to go in the ground.
Just adjust your set up so they can go in the ground at least 5".
Your disc seem to be going lower than your cultivator shares do.
Hope this helps
Greg B.
I think it was because the ground was too hard. Last year I tilled the ground right before hilling it, and it worked much better
You just have to return your u-bolts and have the tool plate in the front of you pulling tube. In this way, no stress on u-bolts
Raise your hillers to the same height as your s tines . Nice setup
Thank you for the tip
@@meadsoutdooradventures I made something very similar and that’s working you did very good job on yours!
That's a big garden. You're right about having to fine tune things that you fabricate. Seems to be doing a good job. Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Did you make or purchase your hiller disc? If you made them where did you find the bearing assembly? I have already started making a hiller but I can’t find the bearing and housing. Thanks
I bought the parts at agri supply. Disc Hiller with 16" Shank, Blanton Style Hub, 14" Width www.agrisupply.com/disc-hiller/p/11676/
@@meadsoutdooradventures Thanks I am planning on making my own. I am having issues on locating the bearings and housing
I think you would get better beds and it would be easier on your implement, if you either disked or tilled the area you are going to make rows. Unless you are going to plant the entire field at the same time, just till and bed the area you are going to use now. I do not see any reason your implement should not work just fine. Good job.
Don’t use them after ur dirt gets packed and they work just fine and go in both directions on the same row
Don't buy your U-boats from Tractor Supply they are kind of on the weak side
I am getting an error subscribing
Ur dirt way to hard