Tronxy XY-2 3D Printer Review
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- Опубліковано 14 лип 2024
- Tronxy did a solid effort with this 3D Printer and it was almost perfect for the price... almost. Do I recommend it? Watch to find out!
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After owning a MK3 I will never buy another printer without a similar Flex sheet. It just works so good
Yeah, except the flex sheet is not too level and requires bed level probe and calibration and this gets worse over time, generally can't be used over 100*C bed temp and is not much good for plastics that shrink due to it pulling the bed up with the shrinkage/warpage. Fine for small prints that don't require high accuracy but not much good for larger mechanical prints. Just buy some Printbite and add it to the top of some glass and you have the perfect solution, no change in height over time, super flat and the prints pop off by themselves once they have cooled down and works on any plastic type that uses a bed temp under 160*C and can't be pulled up when prints try to warp.
@@Redemptioner1 do you still recommend the glass beds? Are the magnetic sheets different? Do they warp too? Trying to decide on what to buy right now. If I should get this printer or an Ender 3 (not sure which model to get there either: New Version 2, the 3X, or the Pro). I think the Pro is the only Ender 3 with a glass bed. I think the X might have it but not sure. Everyone wants version 2 tho for some reason. Apparently it has a new touch screen and tensioner mechanism and something else I can't remember.
I have never had issue with using glass. I rather like knowing that glass is absolutely flat.
For those interested in the details. I believe the bulging and inconsistency in the layers is definitely the drag of the Z carriage. And the coupler nuts are what cause it to be so dramatic. Those spiral cut nuts compress when tension is put on the lead screw and relax when tension lightens. A different style coupler nut would be a better solution along with making sure the gantry and bearings are all adjusted to optimum.
Cabling is a bit "choose your own adventure". Excellent - I'm stealing that one!
Hey Angus, i have been watching you and others on 3d printing for years now, finally bought a Tronxy X5S and i have had similar issues. Thank you for the reccomendations. I will definetly check those things out. Love your channel.
Great video. Nice to see you doing printer reviews again, Angus.
Beautiful as always! Great review thanks!
Appreciate your Time and Effort for this Review.
You will find the frame is not square, take a couple of set squares, loosen all the bolts and slowly tighten them up again using the set squares to keep everything square. Before you tighten the bolts fully on the gantry use Z axis to check how square the gantry is by running it up and down without the lead screw, when you do this slowly adjust the concentric nuts up tighter till you have a some resistance in motion (pre-load on the bearings) but not enough to cause the bearings in the wheels to start "cogging" (you will feel this in your hand as you move it up and down). The idea is to loosens the bolts a little while sliding the z axis up and down, when the z axis binds you nudge the gantry into alignment, tighten the bolts a little and repeat till motion is smooth through the full Z axis travel and your concentric nuts have a good pre-load. Once you square up the gantry using the z axis you can tighten everything down and install the lead screw.
There are also issues with the uprights being cut the same size/squarely.
I had to machine approximately 0.6mm off my Ender uprights to bring them back to the same length with perpendicular cut faces. They were cut less than a degree out, but over the entire height it ends up with a huge misalignment at the top.
It's the same lessons he should have learned when he did the review for the Tronxy X1 last year!
@@elfenmagix8173 Yeah, despite all the printing and videos he still does not seem to know/understand a lot of the basics of 3D printers.
@@drewspriggs not surprising, but you should still be able to get it pretty darn square due to one of the uprights having multiple bolts and all the bolt holes having plenty of clearance, admittedly still not ideal.
Even with the issues best in it's class is high praise. Nice review 👍
Great Angus, you are always giving fair reviews! And an important thing you look for is how hard would it be for a newbie to enter in the 3D printing world, some people don't appreciate that, but I think it's the direction that manufacturers should take!
Have you been able to review the "makeover" XY2 PRO"? It seems to be big step forward, I would be interested to see your opinion!
I have a Tronxy P802MA and it is my first printer. It is a cheap printer, it is an unstable machine in which there is a lot of movement in the frame. With that being said, trying to improve it by printing parts to stabilize has allowed me to learn more about 3D printing. I believe for a beginner, like myself, it is an important to get to know your machine and how it works and the process of 3D printing as a whole.
Thank you Angus for all that you do. I am learning a lot from you and many others like you.
i've noticed a characteristic with maker's muse reviews - as long as a printer isn't a kit or require a ton of assembly, he will most likely give it a positive review despite of having a ton of issues. he seems to really, really, really hate to assemble anything at all.
Definitely some truth to that, I value "time to printing" quite highly, however I assembled the Prusa Mk3 kit and that took quite some time, but was well worth it.
And what is the result? Poor assembly quality. These devices are better off assembled by the owner.
@Maker's Muse What was 'quite some time' for you? My Mk3 kit arrived 1pm on a Friday, and at 1am Saturday it had completed its first calibration ok. My first printer, and it's still going great.
I paid special attention when aligning the main frame, resting it on a sheet of glass to be as flat as possible when tightening the frame bolts.
@@licensetodrive9930 probably about 8-9 hours during 3 streams, but they're super distracting and I'm not exactly working fast. They're archived on maker's muse live.
I know what you mean but I think at this price point they are starter/beginer printers. Which going in blind for some new users would be put off, if there was too much assembly. The machines at this price point should be easy to build and get printing and from there you can gauge how much you use it and if you want to spend more money to improve prints and save time.
What surprises me is the ender 3 isn't a new machine and parts for printers have become better and cheaper, So why isn't there a considerably better starter machine in that price range.
I started printing 3 months aggo. I am building a real size r2d2 droid from star wars. Never did anny 3d printing before. Without you it never happend! Thank your for you super cool en informative video's! Greetz from the netherlands!
Great review!
The Tronxy X1 had a similar clicking problem with the extruder, and shortening the Bowden Tube 50mm or so fixed the problem for me on the X1, and I suspect the same issue is true for you. Also, even though the parts are pre-assembled, you should loose them up and with a Triangle or Combination Square, made sure that everything is squared up on it. Only then I suspect that the rollers will go evenly without binding and giving printing problems.
Plus, you should go all the adjustments of the axises and extruder to make sure all is perfect. Out the box the Tronxy does fine, after all the adjustments, the Tronxy will do better than most printers in its print/price range.
I bought my first 3d printer! I bought the Tronxy XY-2 pro! Thank you for making this review video! It really helped me out.
Nice review
Thanks for sharing😀👍
best review in the history of anything! well done sir.
thats what I gravitate to, the truth, the good and the bad, my decision if I proceed, thank you. At least I won't have the element of surprise.
Hi Andy,
I know that is not your line of work, and that you address beginners in the 3D printing business in your UA-cam channel, but...
Quite a number of us who are watching your and similar channels have access to a lathe and/or a milling machine, soldering irons and other electronics.
You almost never focus on problems that can be solved without buying new parts from China, - apart from software adjustments and upgrades.
With regards from Denmark
Nice review!
Great review. Thank you very much for sharing ;-)
I just picked one up and, with a little tweaking, it works nicely for my first printer. My main complaint at the moment is that the hot end tends to jam up consistently at the very front of a Benchy (all that comes out is thing, stringy PLA threading). It's done three failed Benchy prints so far, and one completely turned to spaghetti for some odd reason.
However, on other prints, it's done just fine. I'm going to do the tolerance test and a few others tonight after fiddling with the voltage to the stepper.
Thanks for the review!
The ender 3 was my first printer and having to Assemble the printer was the best thing that could of happened to me. I learned so much from the process that it convinced me that every newbie should buy a printer that they have to assemble themselves. I wouldn’t know how to fix most of the issues I’ve had if I didn’t assemble it myself! I’ve now built 2 more custom printers since then and I owe some of the confidence to my multiple ender 3 assemblies
Totally agree.
The Ender-3 is the low-cost standard every one needs to at least meet. The original Ender-3 came with a removable G-10 (with "buildtak") plate. It works great. Things worked great out of the box for the majority of people.
If manufacturers can't at least meet those expectations, they've already failed. It's a simple formula that Creality is still building on with their subsequent Ender-3 updates. At least one Chinese company gets it.
As always, a great review. I like some of the upgrades over the Ender 3, but the potentially inferior quality issues you experienced are concerning.
With Cura make sure you enable support interface. With it enabled, after just a little tweaking, supports will literally pop right off. The printed surface over the supports will be much nicer as well. Without it Cura supports can be really, really difficult to remove...as you experienced.
Great tip for support removal in Cura -enable Support Interface.
It's more difficult to remove supports around delicate parts, but in general it makes removal a breeze.
Kudos for also giving the non-affiliate link!
i like that shirt dude!
I got the tronxy x1 when it came out and pretty much rebuilt it 4-5 times over in many iterations. It was an epic learning experience and now I know so much about the mechanics and electronics of 3d printers. Long as you're willing to learn everything about your machine these cheapo printers are great. If you just wanna hit print get a prusa or even more expensive.
Prusa require complete assembly.
The layer thing... I noticed something similar on my CR-X. Those V-rollers and extrusions pick-up dirt easily. Gotta regularly clean them and check for high spots.
Your hair is really cool, you look like a 3D printing superhero
4:37 " *But WHAT THE HELL IS THAT* "
8:22 "Which you can turn off from the front, using this button which says light"
I like how you're adding comedy into your reviews xD
Keep it up man!
Also wouldn't have expected you to use Ultimaker's Cura 4.0 (beta) since you
1) used to hate Cura
and
2) are still tuning in your profiles
With cura I have found it really helpful to use "support interface". Game changer for me.
Nice review! I really should buy a 3D printer one day.... also you can get a Micro SD TO SD Card Extension Cable Adapter to fix the Micro SD card issue!
My x3s have been very reliable and I run them every day. for over a year.
Segments like that just upset Prusa owners.
Very good Video Angus :D
Maybe some tips to use the Sample (50g) filament ? Got a whole box of this sample Filaments but using them is a Pain because of tangling :(
Hey Angus. The clunky sliding movement comes from where the roller-wheels were overtightened at the factory - they have flat spots. You can try rotating each wheel a bit so that they are not in sync with each other, and they do seem to recover their shape a little after a month or so of use (if the tension is released).
I had this with my Ender3's - it seems that TronXY are doing the same now. Useful to know. :)
We are getting quite a few reports of this from our customers who have recently bought Creality machines. It seems likely now that affects some other mfr-assembled printers, but only had Creality ones reported to date - someone on the production line is a bit enthusiastic when they tighten the spacers. ;)
Another reason to buy self assembly kits.
This is why I like kits, 1. If you build it, you know how to fix it quickly. 2. No labour means cheeper price. 3. Cheep and preasembled cost more for low paid assemblers that screw stuff up, that you then have to figure out and fix.
So basicaly, everyone with this deformed roller problem now has to wait a few weeks for them to fill out. Or spend 2 hrs ordering at ther expence and replacing them rather than a 3 hr build.
If I bought that, ther first thing I would do is plug everything to getter to make sure the electronics work. Then strip down and rebuild. But in this case have to buy 20 odd rollers and wait for them to arrive.
@@UberAlphaSirus They might not even be recovering their shape - it could be that the rest of the wheel contact point is just wearing down a bit. All I know is that mine got better with time - I decided not to spend the money on good quality new wheels, as cheap they ain't.
Bad assembly is the price (ouch, sorry!) we pay of cheap printers I guess. ;)
I noticed a difference in two shipments of rollers from China. One sourced from Amazon was assembled properly and moves along the v-slot properly. One sourced from AliExpress was assembled with the center shim between the bearings missing, so that tightening the wheels causes binding. Additionally, they do the same bumping motion that Angus demonstrates. So, I suspect that the Tronxy rollers are missing their central shims.
The more I watch these cheap printer reviews out of curiosity the more spoilt I feel with my Prusa i3 Mk3, it prints like a champion, and it should do considering what I paid for it :)
When you eat, do you take regular bites or Megabytes?
:) So very few people recognise the logo
Creality printers match Prusa for quality.
@okleydokley I had a good budget when I decided I wanted a 3D printer about a year ago, and pre-ordered the Mk3 based on the reviews of the Mk2 along with the heap of features that most others don't have; removable spring steel print bed, resume printing when the power cuts, stealth mode (I really like this one), the PINDA proximity sensor for the auto bed leveling, optical filament sensor, how it finds the XYZ origin point by measuring the current use of the stepper motors so no end stop switches, the ability to print PLA, PETG & TPU with no modification beyond the slicer settings, and other things I can't think of right now.
@@truantray I'm on the verge of getting an Ender 3 Pro, but one thing that still bugs me is the longevity of the product. While it undoubtedly produces high quality prints, I suspect that it won't last as long as a Prusa.
Angus keep smiling, you are warming
@Maker's Muse Any thoughts on the Upgraded XY-2 Pro Titan?
I would love to hear you do a review about the ENDER 5.
I had to reseat my Z stepper on the End3 to get it to run smooth. I lowered the cross rail to the bed, loosened my Z stepper bolts and re-tightened them. The leadscrew flexes in the middle but jams on the fixed ends.
Creality open sourcing the hardware was a mistake, now everybody copies it.
TronXY X5S owner here and never again. I mean I had to spend so much time making it work (go on Thingiverse to see all of the mods that are needed) that it isn't the same printer anymore.
Yeah that thing was a total pile of poop...
Yes, and the worst part was GB support for it AND they changed out the bed from a fiberglass to an Acrylic, and some parts became 3d printed, without any notifications before the sell. Here in the USA that is illegal to do so I no longer touch GearBest (all one long horror story with their support).
I'm still trying to tune things in as I need to, since I use supports so rarely, but you can set the gap between supports and part surfaces in Cura, as well as the support density. Tree supports are also available, and I've had good luck pulling those off with a distance of 0.4 top and bottom.
Thank you for review it. I was curious about it.
Anyway after your review I would surely buy an ender 3 for the price.
Now I'm saving money for cr10s pro
Thats what I'm getting this summer, everything points to that being the best option right now in that price range
Yes I was going to order this January but then I bought the mi mix 3 instead of it... So I have to save for that... It seems to be a printer that is good from the begin
I have a CR10S Pro and 2 Ender 3s. Buy a CR10S, not the pro. The mesh levelling is poor, the firmware is poorly written. Lots of problems with many poorly implemented gimmicks.
get a tronxy x5sa its a beast for its price
Okley can you expand on that? The better PSU at 24v, better board with the silent drivers on it, double rails for the Y travel, better print cool fan, the capricorn tube included, the new mk10 hot end, the silicon sock, the upgraded extruder, these are all nice physical upgrades that shouldn't be impacted by bad software.
Can you please elaborate on what issues you're having? I will not be using the power restart functions so if that's what you mean I was just wondering
The filament sensor adds a lot of resistance (on the creality printers) and removing it generally solves that clicking extruder
It's the bearings in the rollers, Most of these printers use the cheapest bearings possible.
I ended up replacing all of them in my Tronxy X5S, Now it works smoothly.
The proplem showed up as a wave in the Z usually angled.
Careful with the current settings, Tronxy boards fail when the current is increased to where it needs to be. Replace with a Duet 3D ;)
Beyond that, the machines are ok.
i had the same problem on the x5sa tho the v grove rollers eventually run in but replaced all the other ones
Soo...buy a $200 printer, upgrade it with $500 in parts and countless hours, and its as good as a $500 printer? Seems to be a theme on UA-cam.
@@truantray sorry mate u are a bit wrong with your numbers
If u get good deals with your upgrade parts its about 50€ to upgrade a x5sa after that the quallity is quite good
Have you thought of doing a review on the Ender 5? There dosn't seem to be a lot of people talking about it.
If you don't like a Creality design...wait two weeks. That company needs to focus and stop rolling out "new" designs.
is it just me or is angus really cute
OwO angus agrees
As a straight male, I agree
Yeah
It's just you.
@David no homo please (lol) 💝
After the split with Lady Muse, he has gained a lot of sex appeal. He is less a kid, more of a man now 🐣 💟
I have an Ender 3 and have not had any of these problems. The run-out sensor is nice. And the touch screen is nice too. But I use Octoprint so I use my phine or laptop. Anyway, nice video.
I have a couple 3D printers and I've recently been having the exact same under extrusion and clicking extruder issues with the Ender 3. Can you explain how you were able to tweak the current to the extruder motor to remedy the issue?
Thank you Angus for being handsome, straight to your opinion and very serious about your general judgment. The Angus kid has grown up a lot and your next robot will crush the rivals
Edit: never drink beer, it's the ruin of Australian guys
Thanks for the review.
By any chance do you have some feedback on the TRON XY3 ? Do you know what it worth the ratio: reliability / print quality / price ? please
So pardon me if this was covered somewhere, but what is your standard for filament calibration? I ask because when it comes to your tolerance test (around 7:00 in the video) you mentioned you were surprised that this could print tight clearances, but the Ender3 couldn't. It strikes me that how you calibrate each filament spool could easily cause these to clear or fuse, irrespective of the printer's precision. No?
I don't understand why you hate micro SD.. Well, I mean I completely understand it's an annoying form factor to juggle in a workshop environment, BUT I'll take the microSD slot over the full size any day! It's just so darn difficult to find the large form factor cards in normal stores these days and those adaptors are terrible! I've had so many prints die because the microSD card randomly came loose in the adaptor while printing.
The issue is the holders are surface mount soldered in place, so after 100 insertions or someone tries to force it - it breaks and your machine is broken.
How do you change the motor power on an ender 3? Can this be set in a G-code?
What firmware does it run? What kind of microcontroller does it use?
Thanks, Angus! At what price point, and which machines, do you stop seeing these budget printer issues? Are you thru with the Fallout series, or are there more left? Seems like there is a lot more left to make, like a Pip-Boy, that was teased at. And honestly, as far as I’m concerned, you can’t have too much detail in your design process videos! Thanks!
Just in case you are curious, I have found a way to smooth out layer lines in PLA parts.
Hey.. Could you please review the Tronxy X5SA? It's a really big core-XY printer.
Yes, the new version with 500x500x600mm build volume would be a good one to review.
hey i have a x5sa 330 x330 version if u put in corner reinforcements with thees steel 90° brackets u can buy online its solid as a rock then give it 10 h ove moving to runn in all the rollers caus tronxy dose have a broblem with them or the bearings that run in them after that they did run alright but i exchanged all of the pully bearings with good quallity skf bearings that i had laying around, flexing of the xy motor mounds isnt a problem and the tutch is great u need a bout 5-10 h to assembel the printer correctly and nicely
yeah, 560NZD with touch screen, auto levelling, dual z leadscrews... that looks very tempting
Here is what I wrote to him - TronXY X5S owner here and never again. I mean I had to spend so much time making it work (go on Thingiverse to see all of the mods that are
needed) that it isn't the same printer anymore.
His response - Yeah that thing was a total pile of poop...
Trust me the X5S and X5SA are the same only the A has auto bed leveling with a sensor and with everything else being equal it is a big steaming pile of poop.
@@thebeststooge thats actually not true at all. cause its not the case. things the x5sa has that the x5s lags: strong hotend mound(2 steelplates) steel for the other sliders to, good acrylic parts that do not bend 32bit bord, color screen, good gt 2 belts and a better partcoling fan shroud out of the box tho that is still quite shitty
and last the meshbed leveling
when u buy a x5sa spent 20 bucks on good ball bearings and 10 on cornerbrackets and print out a nice hot end fan holder thing and coling duct combo the printer is easeally capebel of printing o.k. quality out od the box.
Hello, after started the printer and see the printer informations the screen is blank working but menu is not available thanks for the help.
I like Tronxy printers, shame about the slightly hesitant rollers - my older X3 doesn't have that problem (but of course that was completely home built with no parts pre-assembled).
could you help me as i have this printer and want to add glass but bel leveling not working what am I doing wrong
Can you recommend 3rd party rollers to replace the ones on this machine with? Really can you offer any advice for anything else you would replace to bring this machine up to the best quality it can be? Also you said you was going to review the XVICO Pioneer but I recall you doing a review on this I think in December. Is this the same machine only more of a review or is this a new machine?
"...I had success. But What The Hell Is That!" LOL Your reaction is so hilarious.
I love all your videos, please never cease to make them.
Did I read that right 12v? So concerns with the mosfet like the wanhaos?
Hi Angus! Is there any printer that has a similar build size to the Creality CR-10S, in a similar price point, that is as good or better?
Thanks! 👍
04:30 can the Ender 3 detect jams? Can the controller board be upgraded in this to a SKR or duet3?
Please review the new tronxy xy-2 PRO with titan extruder and silent motherboard!
how did he change the current to the extruder on the board ? i dont see any variable resistors or pots ?
Will you be reviewing the Tronxy xy-3. It looks pretty good.
My first printer was a TronXY X2. I think it's funny that the issues you had are the same issues I had years ago. TronXY doesn't listen to or learn from users.
Hi i need some info please. I have the same printer but it came without runout sensor. Can anybody assist in showing me some pics of where the white cable connects to and what needs to be done to use it. Thanks
I am still not getting the bed leveling problem I have fixed with the Tronxy X5SA 2020 upgraded model..
I spent tons of time hours at ago in fact trying to get the manual or auto leveling to work so I can use this huge build volume this print has got.
I know you did a review about the model before mine the Tronxy X5SA 2019 model which has a 12 Volt system..
Mine has a 24 Volt system. I got to the point that if I don't manage as a newbie after fighting for months with this leveling problem, get anywhere to fixing it.
I will just give up on this printer! I spent tons of time and money on this new hobby when I have not the money to waste.
I even brought two Tronxy upgrades to better print, 1 > a ultra flexible new bed cover to get off any prints.
and 2 > a Titan Extruder as I wished to do Flexible TPU prints. I even brought extra tools to help dismantle and work on the printer and
got the high heat proof gold electronics tape to put on the bed to help stick the prints down and remove them better from the bed,
as the blue tape just can't take high head on the bed without curling up?
But the leveling problems meant even if I spent tons of time leveling the bed, it still either sits 3 mm above i or worse scrapes across the gold tape wreaking it
and that tape takes time to get on flat I have to use a rubber art hand roller to do it.
And why keep doing it when I can't get it to work? in the 9 month of hell I been trying I got just two prints done the rest of the time tons of failed prints.
I am now wishing I never brought this model and instead brought a small volume build standard model from another well known company?
Such a pain. I can now see why newbies often get fed up and give up doing this hobby.
hey I was wondering what current you set the stepper driver to? I'm having a similar issue with my Tronxy X5SA 400. I also can't print faster then 60mm/sec without layer skipping. any suggestions?
Why does it say that you can't print TPU On this machine Is there a way I can upgrade my machine to print tpu or do I need to start saving for a new 3d printer im a bit gutted I chose the printer for Xmas but I didn't know about the difference filaments well I did but I just thort thay all worked with all 3d printers
Is there a printer that will actually move the head away from the print when the power is lost (power panic)?
So when is the makersmuse 3d printer coming out?
mine did not come with filament sensor. i had to loosen the roller and print at the high end temp recommend of the filament.
Two things: if this issue with the rollers is a thing on ender 3 clones, should I look at adjusting them on my ender 3? Also, about supports in cura, you can set supports to tree support in the options.
Can you please tell me the G-Code flavour to select in Cura for this printer ?
Actually the Ender 3 print surface is not that bad. I have one from June when the build surface used to be glued on and still use it with great results! Over time it wears in a bit and both adheres a bit better and releases easier. No adhesive, just bare for PLA, though I used some IPA smeared glue stick (as per your video on bed adhesion ;-) ) with PETG to protect the surface and release well.
For a fried that for the E3Pro I bought Easy Peelzy and it's a very nice surface, I'll probably get it once the stock gives in, but the stock really seems to be able to hold very well (7 months of nonstop printing!) if you have the first layer right and not having to scrape at it too hard like with it too squished in. The only thing to do occasionally is to check for bubbles appearing after releasing some bigger prints and pushing them off the edge with bed heated up.
oh yea I did cut myself on cura supports before... its like lots of paper cuts... ow
now I only use pliers to remove supports!
you should replace bowden tube to stop skipped steps and underextrusion that is what I did on an xy-2 pro, I recommend capricorn xs bowden tube
What about the X5S? I want the build space...but how does it run?
Second comment: Angus, do you have plans on reviewing or discussing those printers that print on a sheet continuously? I saw those and really wish I had one that does that. I could churn out some minis with a setup like that. :{J
Hello can you please help. I got my son a anet Delta printer. I can't download the the software it say carupt. Thanks
Mikke
Dear Sir, There is new printing software by Cyberdyne Systems. Its called Genisys. Its really has complete control over 3D printers or any machine. Sometimes I wake up at night and my 4 3D printers are printing by them selfs. By morning everything is always back to normal, so I dont mind. Anyway I thought I'd chime in. Thanks for the videos.
Bulging possible cause: Bumps on wheels due to preassembly too tight, for too long?
Bingo, they crushed the wheels, likely because they assembled it in a warm factory, then the unit got cooled to freezing during shipping.
Beginner printers should be kits, for this reason and to help people understand how these devices work. 3D printing is not a toaster, never will be.
Does higher temperatures (below the point where the plastic starts to degenerate) really result in easier extrusion? If the temperature is increased the melt zone gets bigger and more "spongy" as the hot end is not perfectly sealed (melted plastic can "escape" upwards).
yes and no it gets more viscose resolting in an easyer extrusion but u get only a littel bit of meelt zone increas due to tje relativly good effect of a heatbreak. the springiness in a long boden is a mutch bigger problem
I personally don't care about touch screen, but care more about which board is on the printer. Does it support BL Touch out of the box, along with the filament runout sensor? Or would I need to choose?
Hey Angus, is there any way you can do more videos on the tronxy xy2? I've watched all the videos upon it an there is virtually nothing in detail about it. I'm a newbie but have watched all your videos but nothing is in detail about the tronxy. It does seem like it's a baby ender. Could you please help
Quick question, is thermal runaway protection enabled on this one? Would be a good point to cover in any review :)
on my x5sa it was not enabeld by factory so im guessing its the same there to
I have a tronxy x5sa, being a core xy it has planty of rollers and bearings in the pully system and i can say they have a defenitive problem with there bearing quality they suck for quite some time till at lest the v reels run in eventually.
i exchanged all the belt weels with quality bearings and now its a solid printer and it basicly runns faster every day got it up to 130mm/s and still increasing. need to up the part cooling tho.
I have a x5s and would love to know where you got your parts. Definetly would need to do the same for mine. Same issues.
@@3ddrew691 so u got a x5s do u still have the flimsy motor mounts think they where an issiue alsow you can get pritty mutch every acrylic part in steel from aliexperss / alibaba for about 15$ if i remember that right.
the bearings that come in the idelers are not good but with the x5sa u get like plastic idelers i just ditched them compleatly and went with the more original tronxy wascher bearing wascher tactics tho my waschers are currently made out of pla cause i had no bearings with 5mm id thats what u need for using the standart screws
so i made some quick adapters and printed them.
i run skf bearings with 7 id and 9od cause i had them laying in my horde i woud youst recoment looking for the exact same bearing that u currently have in your printer and them buy a view quality ones on for example amazon
the most important thing is that your frame is realy realy squere if you got it squere then use like the 90°angelbrackets and t slot nuts and bolts and put them in every corner of your maschine that can handel them u need about 20 ish of the bracets and then 40 nuts and bolts bought that stuff all on amazone cause it was fast. tho u can get it realy cheep from china
.last thing is checking that your belts runn nice end straight everywhere where the angel / length can change stationary sections dont matter.
thats my gude to getting a solid tronxy printer. after that u let it run some print where it needs to travel a lot maby 2 towers on opposid sied of the bed to run in the rolers hope i coud help.
@@mogelzmo yeah i have printed quite a few things already. If everything prints slow itd great but over 30 mm /s quality is less impressive will definetly try ordering parts and see how it goes after they are installed..thanks for the help
Any good reviews for DLP or SLA affordable 3d printers? I've Had ABS FDM for years looking for resin based versions now affordable.
Alfawise U30 is also a option in the same price point. But mine came with a bad power supply and a very badly warped bed. Easy fixes but still can anyone make something that ain't shit out of the box?
Hi Angus, what do you think of the tronxy xy 3 se?
I dont understand the Cura settings. I have a XY-3. I am tring to print and the nozzle moves up 10mm or more and starts printing. How do I set up a profile for this thing to work?
What gcode flavor does it use?
good day! what printer and scanner can i get for more or less 600$??
I'm watching your reviews and most of them have small printing space,
Im a beginner and wanted to print car interior panels for restoration/modification and etc,
Hope you can help.
Awesome :)