Oooh Man,.. I just snapped a seat bolt from the floorboard while trying to remove it from a 2000 XJ. I thought a week’s worth of daily soaking with PB Blaster would be enough. I used all the old tricks and added patience... Thought I had it. ‘Twas starting to turn, I swear it was. .. SNAP. Off with its head! So today, I’m feeling like a Rookie.. 🥺 And you folks reading this are the only support group I need. As such, tuning into Matt at Bleepin’ Jeep always seems to make the errors I make while wrenching a little easier to deal with... It’s just a matter of doing the next step, whatever the challenge, and that’s good wisdom to carry and put into practice. Thanks Matt, for creating this place we visit on the days when we can’t be on the trail and Murphy just showed us out the garage door. For what it’s worth... Much Appreciated
I don't even try to remove them without heating them first anymore they all have thread locker from the factory. If you have a welder you could weld a nut to the top and the heat from the welder should weaken the thread locker.
heat is your friend in all things that don't want to come unfastened. I would heat it up really well and use a reverse thread extractor, or if you have the ability, weld a nut to the top of teh bolt.
Chris Bridges I’ve been in that situation. I didn’t think about cutting a hex pattern but what I did worked just as well. I cut a slit across the lock and removed it with a flathead bit and a ratchet. Worked great.
I had a similar issue. The security nuts were even more difficult because the outside spun so you couldn't drive a socket on. The dealership told me it would be $125 to take off the 5 lug nuts with an air chisel. I left and thought about it. I called party's too see if I could order the wrench. They said I'd have to bring the Jeep in. 2 nice younger guys came out with a box of about 15 differently sized security sockets. They took them off for me free of charge. I gave the tech $20 and told him to have a nice weekend.
Excellent video. Thanks for the help! I did end up using a 3/4 inch 12-point socket, hammered it on, and the lock came right off! I actually bought a new socket just in case doing this ruined the socket, but no damage to socket and barely noticeable damage to the lock. I too will do away with the lock on the spare tire. Thanks again everyone!
There's a tool for removing wheel locks. It's an emergency lug nut remover, it uses threads to cut into the lock and extract it. Could also try an extractor socket too. We use them on used cars alot
Won't work on this particular wheel lock as there is a tamper proof outside layer on this one. You can crack or grind that tamper proof layer off then put your turbo socket aka extractor socket on
I just did this yesterday, but I used a 12 point socket (I think this was mentioned further down as well) - hammered it on (as it was slightly too small) and it worked awesome. Also, it hardly damaged the wheel locks as well. I did all 4 on the vehicle in less than 10 mins using one tool. Nothing broke.
Yeah name and shame those dealers - I’m normally totally graceful..... but in reality the lift kit has no bearing whatsoever upon whether or not the jeep should have been supplied with a wheellock key. What a bunch of arses they were.
I had the same problem the mechanic said he couldn't fix my sway bar unless he knew who and what brand the modified sway bar is because I got a 5 inch lift so I have 5 inch extended sway bar links that the bearings are bad in
" and that's where we are today folks"... Isn't that the truth!! I'm an older woman who has needed to fend for myself, and family, for a couple decades of more and more tasks and responsibilities for property, and people like you have been lifesavers. None of the convoluted, self promoting, just clear demonstrations of fixes, parts and repairs. Professionals have been exploitative or casually misleading. DIY is survival!! I yelled YAY, when you got the socket to work instead of busting your knuckles, lol... Engaging video, not even related to my task for today, it's a weed eater issue but you are on my saved playlist, so... Have a great day. Thx!!
I got my ‘03 TJ used but from a dealership and it had a “due bill”. Essentially work that I asked them to do before I purchased it. It had a cracked windshield, spongy brakes, and on the test drive it had a slight steering wheel wobble. They did the windshield and the brakes and told me to pick it up. When I picked it up it still had the wobble so I brought it back. I waited for almost an hour and they brought me into the shop to look at something. The mechanic there told me that because I installed Currie steering that they won’t fix the steering. I told them that I had possession for about 25 minutes and came back and that I purchased it the way it was. They refused to work on it. I contacted the BAR and had a quick interview with them. I was basically told that if I wanted them to fix it I’d be receiving stock steering components and I’d have to pay for parts but no labor. I said no to that and replaced the track bar due to a bad ball joint end myself. Never went back and I’ve been the only one to turn a wrench on it ever since.
Never buy a car with an agreement they they will fix any issues after the sale. Because if they say the problem is x and they fix x and really the problem is y. There is a good change they will say we agreed to fix x and that is what we did.
@@jonjanness Plus never trust a dealer that will sell you a car that needs pricey mechanical work, most honest dealers fix the car before they even try to sell it. Cosmetic issues it depends, but I'd never drive a car off the lot if major issues were never fixed prior to buying it
I've taken a few wheels off with security bolts, just hammered a long reach thin wall socket over them, 17mm bolt use a 16mm socket, don't use black air-gun sockets the walls are too thick,
First thing I would do is tighten the bolts on either side of the lock lug nut and loosen them off on the opposite side to relieve pressure of the wheel against that particular nut. A couple taps with a hammer on the locking nut might just break up some tension and loosen any binding grit as well. Hopefully less torque would then be needed to remove the locking nut with whatever technique you ultimately use.
Same Dealer f.off . Said maybe Discount tire has a bunch of keys.. crap shoot. I got a1" 12 pt. socket on, but the inside there is a ring that spun. My Ram wheels are chrome plastic over cast aluminum and fragile..cant get a grinder near them as it recessed flush.. Use a cutoff disk, maybe and make a huge impact driver slot? I'm stuck here.
Good tips man... but instead of wasting a socket just use a nut and weld the inside to the top of the lock nut... had tobthat hundreds of times alot with exhaust bolts broken off.
I've used this dozens of times with success. Heat shocks the connection and loosens rusted, locked up threads and nut provides a purchase to remove. Just used this to remove a water jacket threaded plug in a 1970's SBC head with success.
Although I have never welded, my son bought a 130 mig welder and its been in my garage for two years collecting dust. I tried the other options but could not make it work so I grinded a slot in the lug nut much like a screwdriver slot. took an old tire iron I never use, grinded it down to make it more square to fit in slot and then grabbed the sons Mig Welder. watched a quick video UA-cam on welding 101 and the third try it was welded fast to the lug nut and I was able to twist if off!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Jeep guy!!!!!!
My buddy had his JKU go into insane mode - the wipers running, the turn signals flashing, the cluster going out - and the dealer (despite an add-on JEEP warranty that covers bumper to bumper) decided that they would forcibly tear out his remote car starter wiring and his 900$ head unit, damaging both (and, the stock wiring harness it turns out). This lead to 2 years (yes, two years!) of back and forth with the dealer, who also attempted to claim that lift in the Jeep (installed by yours truly) could also (somehow!) be the cause of the electrical gremlins and therefore it shouldn't be covered. The end result was that the wiring harness going into the fuse box was faulty, which was fixed with just a quick job of replacing it. They, naturally, ended up damaging the dash board so the entire thing squeaks when he drives over 10mph, and also failed to tie up the harness under the dash, so it looks like he stole the truck and tried to hotwire it, but that is dealer support for ya. ON my side, my interior dome light on my 'Yoder 4Runner I just bought started flashing out of control whenever I locked the car. So Toyota promptly took it in, gave me a TRD Pro to drive while they had my car, and decided to just replace, erhm, basically EVERYTHING - just because. Well, there is the difference between two dealerships, located no more than 40 yards apart. I'll drive new Yoders and old Jeeps, thank you very much :)
I work as a tech at a FCA dealer. I use a chisel and cut the "Spinner" ring off and use a extractor set used for large bolts and studs. I hammer the extractor over the lock and use a 1/2 impact gun and slowly apply pressure in reverse which grabs the wheel lock and removed it. Also Most FCA dealers have a Master Key set that fits all the wheel locks that comes on FCA vehicles.
There's a reason for the wheel lock being milled into the steel lug nut...security purposes. I work in the plant that manufacturers wheel locks. Only plant in the states that creates them. There's a reason only one lug nut is milled.
Yes. Here in the UK you can get sockets with reverse cutting threads so as you turn the socket it cuts in and grips the nut. OR an adapted socket with grubscrews that screw into the nut to grip it.
I bought a thin wall metric socket from the auto parts store as recommended by the parts guy at the dealership that sold me the truck with no lug key. These are used by metric car guys for tight spots between the rim and lug nut. They are usually anodized. Two of the sizes fit most of the lugs that you took off the first time. -I would mention the dealer so no one deals with them any longer.
When I was a service technician at a GM dealership I always used an air chisel and got a good grove cut in the edge and then unscrewed it using the air hammer. Never messed up a single customers wheel even once.
You should mention the dealership name since you have a decent audience. I remember the old warranty refusals from Ford dealerships from back when Yamaha was building the SHO engines and they were coming with manual transmissions lol.
I am watching this because i just picked up a brand new Gladiator Mojave from the dealership yesterday and noticed they did not provide the wheel lock key and I'd like to take this thing out today and just feel a little bit apprehensive not being able to take my wheels off, should I need to change a tire. I will be calling the dealer on monday (today is Sunday so they are currently closed) to see if they can provide it. They also told me that they only had one key fob and it was due to the "product shortages" and they will contact me in a few weeks with another one. I have a funny feeling they're just hoping that I'll forget about it and not call them so they can save that $300 or whatever it costs to get a new programmed and cut key fob. Great video and love your channel! Been subscribed for many years and it has helped me numerous times!
I actually went to a junk yard and dig through glove boxes until I found one. When I went to pay for it. They had an entire box with hundreds of them. Since I found the one I needed they gave it to me. They sell them for $5 bucks at the junkyard.
Seeing as you bought the Jeep from the dealer and they refused to remove the locking nut for you, the other solution I would have suggested is filing a lawsuit...
Back in the old days we would just find a deep well socket that is almost the right size and hammer it on and it comes right off easy peasy Gorge and Wesie.
Ford also helped me when I lost my stock wheel lock. Not all dealers have the full set. I made some calls and found the right dealer. The guy that delivers all the new cars, found the right key and removed all locks, in his drawer of goodies he found 4 regular lug nuts and replaced them. He gave me the 2 color codes so I could purchase a lock from McGard, which I did by calling them. He did this all for free. Great dealer! Thank FORD! Jim
Thanks for spending your money and showing everybody different methods it’s always nice to see the peanut gallery giving their two sent methods that don’t work when there’s real guys like yourselves spending money and showing rather than telling
Grind the 2 sides you could get to easy flat then put the large size vise grips on tight and if u can't budge it slide a pipe over the back of grips and turn. I worked for a dealership in the early to middle 2000s when the idea of wheel locks was big. We had a master set in the parts room but out of the 2 parts room employees one was the manager and a big a hole at that. He would make it hard to get the set. Had to know all specifics as to why u needed it. The other guy was under him and didn't give a shit and would hand tools like that out no questions asked.
Had the same thing on my used VW GTI - went to the dealer and they tried all the lock keys they had, removed my old locks and installed a new set. Cost me $50 for the new set. Your experience with the dealer pretty much makes me never want to buy a Jeep, esp. not a new one.
Good job, but instead of a socket you could use a nut and weld it in the middel. Then put the socket on it. Works also great on studs and bolts that are broken.
Its a bit of work usualy because atleast here all of then are atleast a 2 piece system. The threaded part is connected to the head with a sort a torx like connection, so first you weld a nut and brake off the first part if it doesnt unscrew and rinse and repeat the welding
unless it has that spin collar on lug with deeper socket rims (i've seen on BMW's and other german cars). Only way then is buy the tool or weld a glob on end; real pain in ass. For this lug; agreed; 12 point a big old hammer.
I have grabbed some old open end lug nuts and used a stick welder to weld through the hole in the lug nut to weld onto the wheel lock with a wet towel to protect the wheel. then just use a lug wrench to remove.
Most of lock nut kits comes with a card with a numeral key code which you can order your replacement key from the company . If you don't have that. Good luck trying to take that locknut apart without damaging the rims.
I’ve always removed locking lug nuts by getting a socket that’s slightly smaller and hammering it on. Good luck removing the lug from the socket after but it usually works every time.
I had the same problem with one of my brand new jeeps. took it to the dealer that i bought it from and got the same response from them that you did! My solution was I took a short piece of 1" black iron pipe (one end with a fresh cut and NOT reamed). I hammered squarely on to the keyed lug nice tight. I took my 12" pipe wrench to the pipe and backed that lug off with no problem!
Instead of grinding, use a socket that is just slightly smaller than the lock. Place the socket on the key lock and strike the socket wire a hammer several times. The socket will wedge itself onto the key. You can then use your ratchet wrench to remove the key.
My first choice would have been number 3. As soon as the air powered cutting wheel appeared I thought "this won't end well". BTW, hope you disconnected your battery before you started the welding. Can easily fry sensitive electronics on a new vehicle when you fire up the welder. Should post the name of the Jeep Dealer so others avoid someone who won't provide that basic service when you bought a new vehicle there. Really outrageous.
I had the same problem sometime ago, the garage asked for $100/ a friend suggested that I go to alocal welder who removed the nut by using the third method that you had used and charged only $10/.
Your dealership definitely sucks. I worked at one this summer and we had a master key set and tried our best to take them off if the customer truly couldn't find their key.
Dude use a full inch chisel and one or two pops with a 2 lb mini sledgehammer,pop off,been working on shit boxes for 40 yrs,man I love problem solving!
Brought my brand new JK back a week after purchase for 2 issues... 1: the wheel locks... Yes they gave me the key... No they did not torque them or even tighten them... One flew off and put a nice ding in the side of my Jeep (took 2 weeks and threats of a lawyer to get them to fix the ding) and issue 2: strong smell of antifreeze after it was run on the highway for 30+ mins... Took 6 months of adding about a quart a week to for them to finally figure out there was an issue with the fan not coming on till after it was over temp... Then a year later a rocker arm broke.. and they tried to say since I didn't have all my services done at the dealership it was not covered under warranty... Actually had to have a lawyer send them a letter that time...
There's a special tool for this. It's kind of like a socket but its inside is a reverse threaded nut, made of very hard steel, and what you do is to push it into place and rotate counter clockwise, and what happens is that the threads bite into the lug nut, and what eventually happens is that it won't thread on any further (because its inside gets narrower and narrower on an ever so gradual basis), meaning that as you continue to rotate it counter clockwise, the lug nut itself is eventually forced to rotate counter clockwise as well. The only difficult thing here is having to separate the tool from the lug nut afterwards, which tends to involve the use of a vice. But at least it doesn't damage the wheels.
I have been using a Dynomech remover for about 20 years now,it gets used at least twice a week,fits all manner of designs and has never failed me once.
Old wheel nut, its got a taper on it so you you can get 3 full weld runs around it without exceeding its AF width. Or a impact socket hammered over the nut.
I've used both the "wheel lock removal tool" ie an internal version of an easy out, and also the 12point socket trick. Honestly the 12 point socket worked better as the wheel lock tool got dull after the first 2 wheel locks and wouldn't bite as well.
I'm going through that right now. The tire shop lost my wheel lock key. It's not tapered, like yours, so just pounding a socket on it is out of the question. I guess I'll have to break out my grinder. Thanks for the tip. As far as dealerships, I bought my Tacoma brand new in 2003. After the first 6 years of lack luster dealer provided oil changes, I started doing them myself. I found that they had never dropped one of the two skid pans to do the oil change, but instead stuffed a bunch of shop rags between the skid pan and oil pan. Six years of oily rags came out. I next found out that the motor mount bolts to the frame were missing on the driver's side of the engine! When I asked the dealer to fix it, they wanted to bill me for something the factory (built in Northern California) forgot to install. My friend who owned a transmission shop installed them in exchange for two dozen donuts! Toyota is a great vehicle, but North American labor sucks.
@@Aerogrow Yes and it also voids any warranty that might have come with the original Jeep~!!! Also if none of their mechanics didn't know how to do this then I would definitely scratch that dealer~!!
@@RickaramaTrama-lc1ys probably more due to dealership mechanics typically get paid flat rate, so spending any extra time on a job hurts the mechanics pay. Add this in with taking extra risk and a possibility of getting written up... Sad state of how they bill out and treat mechanics is the issue.
Another trick is to tighten up the other four wheel nuts extremely tight (i.e. significantly tighter than the lock nut) - this will often render the lock nut loose (likely wont work on your spare wheel holder if it only has 3 nuts)
I grew up in Western New York with the guys who invented and worked at McGard Wheel locks. The engineers spend three days developing a new product then spend the next week trying to break it. They taught me the JB Weld on a socket trick. Glue a socket onto the wheel lock with some JB weld and it spins off after it hardens.
Great video as always!!! The dealership that you spent a lot of $$$$$$$$ at was not one bit helpful!! I know Jeep as a company is loyal to their customers but I’d never buy from that dealer again!!!
The nice thing about this is the fact that the lug sticks out ...enough that if you were to grind a slot across the center a small piece of steel could be fitted and welded into place. If you were in an area where all could do was grind a slot then a larger slot or possibly grinding the edges leaving an area in the center for a wrench or large vice grip along with a lever or wrench to twist.
I just bought the wheel lock remover tool from auto zone. one side looks like a pipe coupling the other is a 3/4 drive. $10 my size and comes off like any other lug nut
After buying the car their and them telling me they couldn't help me I would have told them to take the car back and give me my money back and buy the car from another dealership
You can also grind it in the middle, hammer it with a chisel so large pry bar fits, then grab the pry bar with some vise grips or a socket if they have a handle that can fit one and take it off, it usually works if not buy a set of turbo sockets, those always seem to work
F that dealer and all dealers for that matter! Its ok for you and I who can figure out methods to get what we need done, but for the average Joe who doesnt have a bunch of tools and know how. They get screwed every time.
Back in the early 1980's we had to remove a similar wheel lock. I hammered a slightly smaller socket over the lock and easily removed the lock. I honestly thought the socket was the price of removing the lock but I was wrong. After extricating the lock from the socket I was able to use that socket for many years to come. I learned this trick from a junkyard.
Thank you so much, this UA-cam video had just a bit of promotion but the content is impressive, Love the way you presented the information. Its a common sense, approach , good example of logical improvisation that I love. Its helps instill that can do attitude to issues.
For anyone wanting a more simple option.... Just shave down the top and bottom sides (enough to use a wrench). Less time and chance of damaging the rim with the grinding wheel.
Put a short piece of pipe , about 4 inches long over the lug and then weld the lug to the inside of the pipe. Welding inside the pipe also protects your wheels. And then use a pipe wrench on the pipe to loosen the lug. I did this on all 4 wheels on a Volvo. Works a treat.
Never had any bug issues with my dealership over the years. I have had some concerns about their quality of work once or twice, but a chat with the service manager fixed that right up. My biggest problem with them is the outrageous prices they charge for parts (and the labour rates are a bit high, too)....not really a huge issue. They are the only ones that have ever put a wrench on my Wrangler...aside from me swapping rims each season for my winter tires. I did have a major problem back in November with the spare tire bracket! All three of the nuts had seized/rusted u-p pretty bad to the point that I ended up actually breaking the cast aluminium to get the summer spare off! A trip to a local Jeep store got me a new bracket for about 1/4 of what the dealership priced it at! I just got the rusted nuts/bolts out of my summer spare this weekend, so I’m all back to normal & ready to make the swap back to summer rubber in a couple weeks! °|||||||° 🤘🏼
Most excellent! The 12-point socket did the trick! I was even able to get the lug nut out of the socket afterward with the help of a bolt screwed into the lug nut, then tapped out with the help of a vise and a screwdriver through the back-end of the socket. Thank you very much for an incredibly helpful video (and your follow-on video too!) :)
Oooh Man,.. I just snapped a seat bolt from the floorboard while trying to remove it from a 2000 XJ. I thought a week’s worth of daily soaking with PB Blaster would be enough. I used all the old tricks and added patience... Thought I had it. ‘Twas starting to turn, I swear it was. .. SNAP. Off with its head! So today, I’m feeling like a Rookie.. 🥺 And you folks reading this are the only support group I need. As such, tuning into Matt at Bleepin’ Jeep always seems to make the errors I make while wrenching a little easier to deal with... It’s just a matter of doing the next step, whatever the challenge, and that’s good wisdom to carry and put into practice. Thanks Matt, for creating this place we visit on the days when we can’t be on the trail and Murphy just showed us out the garage door. For what it’s worth... Much Appreciated
Thanks for the kind comment! 😁
@@bleepinjeep, jb weld
I don't even try to remove them without heating them first anymore they all have thread locker from the factory. If you have a welder you could weld a nut to the top and the heat from the welder should weaken the thread locker.
heat is your friend in all things that don't want to come unfastened. I would heat it up really well and use a reverse thread extractor, or if you have the ability, weld a nut to the top of teh bolt.
Chris Bridges I’ve been in that situation. I didn’t think about cutting a hex pattern but what I did worked just as well. I cut a slit across the lock and removed it with a flathead bit and a ratchet. Worked great.
I had a similar issue. The security nuts were even more difficult because the outside spun so you couldn't drive a socket on. The dealership told me it would be $125 to take off the 5 lug nuts with an air chisel. I left and thought about it. I called party's too see if I could order the wrench. They said I'd have to bring the Jeep in. 2 nice younger guys came out with a box of about 15 differently sized security sockets. They took them off for me free of charge. I gave the tech $20 and told him to have a nice weekend.
Should have gave the tech 100
hows he going to have a nice weekend with $20
Excellent video. Thanks for the help! I did end up using a 3/4 inch 12-point socket, hammered it on, and the lock came right off! I actually bought a new socket just in case doing this ruined the socket, but no damage to socket and barely noticeable damage to the lock. I too will do away with the lock on the spare tire. Thanks again everyone!
There's a tool for removing wheel locks. It's an emergency lug nut remover, it uses threads to cut into the lock and extract it. Could also try an extractor socket too. We use them on used cars alot
We bought 2 them and to evevery auto parts none worked they sold .
Won't work on this particular wheel lock as there is a tamper proof outside layer on this one. You can crack or grind that tamper proof layer off then put your turbo socket aka extractor socket on
Thanks god someone knows that every auto parts has the socket to remove those locks without having the correct keys.
@@zackk695 hell just grab a harbor freight set of impact sockets and play guess which one the hammer can make fit 🤣
@@jerseypb2223 shit, hammer on a slightly smaller impact socket and bye bye wheel lock. It's become the most efficient removal tool I've used to date
I just did this yesterday, but I used a 12 point socket (I think this was mentioned further down as well) - hammered it on (as it was slightly too small) and it worked awesome. Also, it hardly damaged the wheel locks as well. I did all 4 on the vehicle in less than 10 mins using one tool. Nothing broke.
The best way by far.
Yeah name and shame those dealers - I’m normally totally graceful..... but in reality the lift kit has no bearing whatsoever upon whether or not the jeep should have been supplied with a wheellock key.
What a bunch of arses they were.
jonnyweston haha I was thinking that when he said it, why would you remove the spare when doing a lift
I had the same problem the mechanic said he couldn't fix my sway bar unless he knew who and what brand the modified sway bar is because I got a 5 inch lift so I have 5 inch extended sway bar links that the bearings are bad in
@@eragonshadeslayer1 Yes, but I am sure he didn't act obnoxious or drop an F-bomb when he said he couldn't help you
" and that's where we are today folks"... Isn't that the truth!! I'm an older woman who has needed to fend for myself, and family, for a couple decades of more and more tasks and responsibilities for property, and people like you have been lifesavers. None of the convoluted, self promoting, just clear demonstrations of fixes, parts and repairs. Professionals have been exploitative or casually misleading. DIY is survival!!
I yelled YAY, when you got the socket to work instead of busting your knuckles, lol... Engaging video, not even related to my task for today, it's a weed eater issue but you are on my saved playlist, so... Have a great day. Thx!!
I got my ‘03 TJ used but from a dealership and it had a “due bill”. Essentially work that I asked them to do before I purchased it. It had a cracked windshield, spongy brakes, and on the test drive it had a slight steering wheel wobble. They did the windshield and the brakes and told me to pick it up. When I picked it up it still had the wobble so I brought it back. I waited for almost an hour and they brought me into the shop to look at something. The mechanic there told me that because I installed Currie steering that they won’t fix the steering. I told them that I had possession for about 25 minutes and came back and that I purchased it the way it was. They refused to work on it. I contacted the BAR and had a quick interview with them. I was basically told that if I wanted them to fix it I’d be receiving stock steering components and I’d have to pay for parts but no labor. I said no to that and replaced the track bar due to a bad ball joint end myself. Never went back and I’ve been the only one to turn a wrench on it ever since.
Jake Matthews omg that sucks mate, they always try and blame the person who brought it. The only way is to do it yourself
Larry Miller lol
Like they say if you want something done right you gotta do it yourself
Never buy a car with an agreement they they will fix any issues after the sale. Because if they say the problem is x and they fix x and really the problem is y. There is a good change they will say we agreed to fix x and that is what we did.
@@jonjanness Plus never trust a dealer that will sell you a car that needs pricey mechanical work, most honest dealers fix the car before they even try to sell it. Cosmetic issues it depends, but I'd never drive a car off the lot if major issues were never fixed prior to buying it
I've taken a few wheels off with security bolts, just hammered a long reach thin wall socket over them, 17mm bolt use a 16mm socket, don't use black air-gun sockets the walls are too thick,
I want to hear the full details of your horror story. Dont hold out on us
Taylor Hardin ya
He bought a chrysler product. The horror story will go on for years to come.
@@MegaMustangkiller LMFAO
@@MegaMustangkiller I love and hate my Dakota .. unfortunately its still more love then hate 😂
@BOSS MAN I think you are full of 💩
First thing I would do is tighten the bolts on either side of the lock lug nut and loosen them off on the opposite side to relieve pressure of the wheel against that particular nut. A couple taps with a hammer on the locking nut might just break up some tension and loosen any binding grit as well. Hopefully less torque would then be needed to remove the locking nut with whatever technique you ultimately use.
Same Dealer f.off . Said maybe Discount tire has a bunch of keys.. crap shoot. I got a1" 12 pt. socket on, but the inside there is a ring that spun. My Ram wheels are chrome plastic over cast aluminum and fragile..cant get a grinder near them as it recessed flush.. Use a cutoff disk, maybe and make a huge impact driver slot? I'm stuck here.
Good tips man... but instead of wasting a socket just use a nut and weld the inside to the top of the lock nut... had tobthat hundreds of times alot with exhaust bolts broken off.
That sounds pretty good.
I scrolled through just looking for this comment. Have used that trick enough times that if I welded a socket on each time I would go broke!
Trying that now!
@@matthewjohnson6534 it works!!! Make sure to start the weld really deep and not just hit the insides of the nut... itll just break off then.
I've used this dozens of times with success. Heat shocks the connection and loosens rusted, locked up threads and nut provides a purchase to remove. Just used this to remove a water jacket threaded plug in a 1970's SBC head with success.
Although I have never welded, my son bought a 130 mig welder and its been in my garage for two years collecting dust. I tried the other options but could not make it work so I grinded a slot in the lug nut much like a screwdriver slot. took an old tire iron I never use, grinded it down to make it more square to fit in slot and then grabbed the sons Mig Welder. watched a quick video UA-cam on welding 101 and the third try it was welded fast to the lug nut and I was able to twist if off!!!!!!!!!! Thank you Jeep guy!!!!!!
My buddy had his JKU go into insane mode - the wipers running, the turn signals flashing, the cluster going out - and the dealer (despite an add-on JEEP warranty that covers bumper to bumper) decided that they would forcibly tear out his remote car starter wiring and his 900$ head unit, damaging both (and, the stock wiring harness it turns out). This lead to 2 years (yes, two years!) of back and forth with the dealer, who also attempted to claim that lift in the Jeep (installed by yours truly) could also (somehow!) be the cause of the electrical gremlins and therefore it shouldn't be covered. The end result was that the wiring harness going into the fuse box was faulty, which was fixed with just a quick job of replacing it. They, naturally, ended up damaging the dash board so the entire thing squeaks when he drives over 10mph, and also failed to tie up the harness under the dash, so it looks like he stole the truck and tried to hotwire it, but that is dealer support for ya. ON my side, my interior dome light on my 'Yoder 4Runner I just bought started flashing out of control whenever I locked the car. So Toyota promptly took it in, gave me a TRD Pro to drive while they had my car, and decided to just replace, erhm, basically EVERYTHING - just because. Well, there is the difference between two dealerships, located no more than 40 yards apart. I'll drive new Yoders and old Jeeps, thank you very much :)
I work as a tech at a FCA dealer. I use a chisel and cut the "Spinner" ring off and use a extractor set used for large bolts and studs. I hammer the extractor over the lock and use a 1/2 impact gun and slowly apply pressure in reverse which grabs the wheel lock and removed it. Also Most FCA dealers have a Master Key set that fits all the wheel locks that comes on FCA vehicles.
I think I'd report that dealer to Jeep corp.
The Reverend definitely, you spend that much money you want someone to take care of you
This is basically by the books stealership standards. Refuse all service that isn't going to generate large amounts of cash
Used car, used tyre.
There's a reason for the wheel lock being milled into the steel lug nut...security purposes. I work in the plant that manufacturers wheel locks. Only plant in the states that creates them. There's a reason only one lug nut is milled.
Reporting them wouldn't make any difference. Chrysler products have had a bad reputation for decades and here in Australia it's the same.
Never seen such a simple job look so hard 🤦♂️
Lol 😂
I agree! Lol
Find a socket that almost fits like the one you had, then take a big hammer and drive it on the lug enough to get a grip, works every time
I worked at Western Auto and we charged $5/wheel to remove the wheel locks without a key.
Thank you Chuck
Yes. Here in the UK you can get sockets with reverse cutting threads so as you turn the socket it cuts in and grips the nut. OR an adapted socket with grubscrews that screw into the nut to grip it.
I bought a thin wall metric socket from the auto parts store as recommended by the parts guy at the dealership that sold me the truck with no lug key. These are used by metric car guys for tight spots between the rim and lug nut. They are usually anodized. Two of the sizes fit most of the lugs that you took off the first time. -I would mention the dealer so no one deals with them any longer.
When I was a service technician at a GM dealership I always used an air chisel and got a good grove cut in the edge and then unscrewed it using the air hammer. Never messed up a single customers wheel even once.
You should mention the dealership name since you have a decent audience.
I remember the old warranty refusals from Ford dealerships from back when Yamaha was building the SHO engines and they were coming with manual transmissions lol.
I am watching this because i just picked up a brand new Gladiator Mojave from the dealership yesterday and noticed they did not provide the wheel lock key and I'd like to take this thing out today and just feel a little bit apprehensive not being able to take my wheels off, should I need to change a tire. I will be calling the dealer on monday (today is Sunday so they are currently closed) to see if they can provide it. They also told me that they only had one key fob and it was due to the "product shortages" and they will contact me in a few weeks with another one. I have a funny feeling they're just hoping that I'll forget about it and not call them so they can save that $300 or whatever it costs to get a new programmed and cut key fob. Great video and love your channel! Been subscribed for many years and it has helped me numerous times!
Probably so, good luck to you!
I actually went to a junk yard and dig through glove boxes until I found one. When I went to pay for it. They had an entire box with hundreds of them. Since I found the one I needed they gave it to me. They sell them for $5 bucks at the junkyard.
Seeing as you bought the Jeep from the dealer and they refused to remove the locking nut for you, the other solution I would have suggested is filing a lawsuit...
Back in the old days we would just find a deep well socket that is almost the right size and hammer it on and it comes right off easy peasy Gorge and Wesie.
Common sense just entered the chat👍
The only method that is needed is one that works and you showed us one that works thank you
It’s a shame Jeep didn’t help. When I went to Landrover, They tried all the locking nuts until they found the correct one. Great vid none the less. 👍🏽
Ford also helped me when I lost my stock wheel lock. Not all dealers have the full set. I made some calls and found the right dealer. The guy that delivers all the new cars, found the right key and removed all locks, in his drawer of goodies he found 4 regular lug nuts and replaced them. He gave me the 2 color codes so I could purchase a lock from McGard, which I did by calling them. He did this all for free. Great dealer! Thank FORD! Jim
Thanks for spending your money and showing everybody different methods it’s always nice to see the peanut gallery giving their two sent methods that don’t work when there’s real guys like yourselves spending money and showing rather than telling
Grind the 2 sides you could get to easy flat then put the large size vise grips on tight and if u can't budge it slide a pipe over the back of grips and turn. I worked for a dealership in the early to middle 2000s when the idea of wheel locks was big. We had a master set in the parts room but out of the 2 parts room employees one was the manager and a big a hole at that. He would make it hard to get the set. Had to know all specifics as to why u needed it. The other guy was under him and didn't give a shit and would hand tools like that out no questions asked.
I'm sure the people that want to steal them have no problem.
Had the same thing on my used VW GTI - went to the dealer and they tried all the lock keys they had, removed my old locks and installed a new set. Cost me $50 for the new set. Your experience with the dealer pretty much makes me never want to buy a Jeep, esp. not a new one.
Good job, but instead of a socket you could use a nut and weld it in the middel. Then put the socket on it. Works also great on studs and bolts that are broken.
This is my preferred way to get these off. Always my plan A as long as my welder is available.
You sir are a genius☠️
Its a bit of work usualy because atleast here all of then are atleast a 2 piece system. The threaded part is connected to the head with a sort a torx like connection, so first you weld a nut and brake off the first part if it doesnt unscrew and rinse and repeat the welding
thats how i do it
Harbor freight sells a socket with reverse threads it bites onto and removes the lugnut.
E85STI that is true. I never thought about using one of them.
Hammering the right size 12 point socket on works nearly every time
Alex Ottomano thought exactly the same
unless it has that spin collar on lug with deeper socket rims (i've seen on BMW's and other german cars).
Only way then is buy the tool or weld a glob on end; real pain in ass. For this lug; agreed; 12 point a big old hammer.
Yup that’s usually how it’s done. They also have easy out sockets that are double ended. 19mm on one side and 21mm on the other.
You could buy a wheel lock remover. I got mine off Amazon
I have grabbed some old open end lug nuts and used a stick welder to weld through the hole in the lug nut to weld onto the wheel lock with a wet towel to protect the wheel. then just use a lug wrench to remove.
Hey man. You can get reverse threaded sockets that threads on those lock nuts. That way you don't grind a chunk out of your wheel.
HF sells those reverse sockets for this exact purpose.
What if the nut has a spinning outer collar, though?
Most of lock nut kits comes with a card with a numeral key code which you can order your replacement key from the company . If you don't have that. Good luck trying to take that locknut apart without damaging the rims.
I always carry a welder and grinder with me just in case I need to get my spare off out in the wilderness when I don't have the key for the spare.
Probably could have just hammered the socket over it. No need to grind it.
Slip collar on those type of wheel locks
Couldn't you cut a slot down one side of the lock,then remove it with some vice grips?
I’ve always removed locking lug nuts by getting a socket that’s slightly smaller and hammering it on. Good luck removing the lug from the socket after but it usually works every time.
Most entertainment I've had in a while....thx!
I have removed over 50 of these. When can use Vice grips , Or Hammer and chisel to move a little. Easy fix.
Hammer chisel was plan B ...
Lance Im not going to asked how you make your money.
A big vise grip might have worked.
turbo sockets. chisel/airhammer. 12point hammer on.pliers if possible. drill a hole in center and knock inn a torx or extractor.
I pushed the Jeep into an active Volcano......watched it melt back into the earth.....then drove away in my Tahoe LOL
Do you think a small pipe wrench would have worked? Or was the nut to recessed?... love the channel! Keep up the good work!!
Ya it was very short and not much to grab onto.
i used a pipe wrench on my TJ and it scratched the rim a little, but I didn't really care because the rim was in rough shape anyway
I had the same problem with one of my brand new jeeps. took it to the dealer that i bought it from and got the same response from them that you did! My solution was I took a short piece of 1" black iron pipe (one end with a fresh cut and NOT reamed). I hammered squarely
on to the keyed lug nice tight. I took my 12" pipe wrench to the pipe and backed that lug off with no problem!
Instead of grinding, use a socket that is just slightly smaller than the lock. Place the socket on the key lock and strike the socket wire a hammer several times. The socket will wedge itself onto the key. You can then use your ratchet wrench to remove the key.
Once done, how do you get the key out of the socket? Mine is stuck
@@inthedarkwoods2022 Put the socket in a vice and smack the key with a hammer.
My first choice would have been number 3. As soon as the air powered cutting wheel appeared I thought "this won't end well". BTW, hope you disconnected your battery before you started the welding. Can easily fry sensitive electronics on a new vehicle when you fire up the welder. Should post the name of the Jeep Dealer so others avoid someone who won't provide that basic service when you bought a new vehicle there. Really outrageous.
I had the same problem sometime ago, the garage asked for $100/ a friend suggested
that I go to alocal welder who removed the nut by using the third method that you had used and charged only $10/.
Your dealership definitely sucks. I worked at one this summer and we had a master key set and tried our best to take them off if the customer truly couldn't find their key.
Dude use a full inch chisel and one or two pops with a 2 lb mini sledgehammer,pop off,been working on shit boxes for 40 yrs,man I love problem solving!
Brought my brand new JK back a week after purchase for 2 issues... 1: the wheel locks... Yes they gave me the key... No they did not torque them or even tighten them... One flew off and put a nice ding in the side of my Jeep (took 2 weeks and threats of a lawyer to get them to fix the ding) and issue 2: strong smell of antifreeze after it was run on the highway for 30+ mins... Took 6 months of adding about a quart a week to for them to finally figure out there was an issue with the fan not coming on till after it was over temp...
Then a year later a rocker arm broke.. and they tried to say since I didn't have all my services done at the dealership it was not covered under warranty... Actually had to have a lawyer send them a letter that time...
There's a special tool for this. It's kind of like a socket but its inside is a reverse threaded nut, made of very hard steel, and what you do is to push it into place and rotate counter clockwise, and what happens is that the threads bite into the lug nut, and what eventually happens is that it won't thread on any further (because its inside gets narrower and narrower on an ever so gradual basis), meaning that as you continue to rotate it counter clockwise, the lug nut itself is eventually forced to rotate counter clockwise as well. The only difficult thing here is having to separate the tool from the lug nut afterwards, which tends to involve the use of a vice. But at least it doesn't damage the wheels.
Love your videos. Try welding on a thick flat washer first, then weld on a nut or socket.
Would definitely weld on a nut before destroying a socket .
@@sef2273 da
Good Work!!!! I've never had a problem like this from my Dealership..
Went to harbor freight and got the universal security socket set for like $25 🤦🏼♂️
yeah no such exists, nice try
@@cryengine_x it exists but at a little higher price lol www.harborfreight.com/locking-lug-nut-master-key-set-16-pc-63739.html Have a great day!
@@W4RZY cool. even that set i suspect though is quite incomplete as you notice if you read the reviews. for example, the "mcgard" type locks.
I have been using a Dynomech remover for about 20 years now,it gets used at least twice a week,fits all manner of designs and has never failed me once.
You should have welded a nut not a socket. Only because they are cheaper, more dispoable and readily available
Old wheel nut, its got a taper on it so you you can get 3 full weld runs around it without exceeding its AF width.
Or a impact socket hammered over the nut.
This guy is hilarious!!! Love it!!!
I've used both the "wheel lock removal tool" ie an internal version of an easy out, and also the 12point socket trick. Honestly the 12 point socket worked better as the wheel lock tool got dull after the first 2 wheel locks and wouldn't bite as well.
Why would you weld the socket to it and just not a cheap nut and save the tool?
Tire shop sold me one for $5 when I didnt have the key. 😂
Yes, but as he said, there are many different kinds of security nuts, so the auto-supply store or tire shop might not have the right one.
I'm going through that right now. The tire shop lost my wheel lock key. It's not tapered, like yours, so just pounding a socket on it is out of the question. I guess I'll have to break out my grinder. Thanks for the tip.
As far as dealerships, I bought my Tacoma brand new in 2003. After the first 6 years of lack luster dealer provided oil changes, I started doing them myself. I found that they had never dropped one of the two skid pans to do the oil change, but instead stuffed a bunch of shop rags between the skid pan and oil pan. Six years of oily rags came out. I next found out that the motor mount bolts to the frame were missing on the driver's side of the engine! When I asked the dealer to fix it, they wanted to bill me for something the factory (built in Northern California) forgot to install. My friend who owned a transmission shop installed them in exchange for two dozen donuts! Toyota is a great vehicle, but North American labor sucks.
Please make a video about the dealership story and why he asked you about the lift
I assume they were suggesting that the lift came with tires and they were the ones that put the spare on with a lock?
@@Aerogrow Yes and it also voids any warranty that might have come with the original Jeep~!!! Also if none of their mechanics didn't know how to do this then I would definitely scratch that dealer~!!
@@RickaramaTrama-lc1ys probably more due to dealership mechanics typically get paid flat rate, so spending any extra time on a job hurts the mechanics pay. Add this in with taking extra risk and a possibility of getting written up... Sad state of how they bill out and treat mechanics is the issue.
Maybe look around inside for the key???????
Another trick is to tighten up the other four wheel nuts extremely tight (i.e. significantly tighter than the lock nut) - this will often render the lock nut loose (likely wont work on your spare wheel holder if it only has 3 nuts)
That’s a very interesting idea. Thumbs up.
Good way to snap studs
I grew up in Western New York with the guys who invented and worked at McGard Wheel locks. The engineers spend three days developing a new product then spend the next week trying to break it. They taught me the JB Weld on a socket trick. Glue a socket onto the wheel lock with some JB weld and it spins off after it hardens.
Great video as always!!! The dealership that you spent a lot of $$$$$$$$ at was not one bit helpful!! I know Jeep as a company is loyal to their customers but I’d never buy from that dealer again!!!
Paul Kaiser crazy a, a dealership not helping a customer... what is the world coming to
Did you disconnect the battery before welding??
Fire wrench works good too. Cant be tight if it's liquid!
This guy is a goof! PERIOD!
The nice thing about this is the fact that the lug sticks out ...enough that if you were to grind a slot across the center a small piece of steel could be fitted and welded into place. If you were in an area where all could do was grind a slot then a larger slot or possibly grinding the edges leaving an area in the center for a wrench or large vice grip along with a lever or wrench to twist.
I just bought the wheel lock remover tool from auto zone. one side looks like a pipe coupling the other is a 3/4 drive. $10 my size and comes off like any other lug nut
I had the same issue with locks on my rims. Brother and i used some strong vice grip pliers and turned it
I hit the bell...also I use a 12 pt socket and hammer it on ..or use gearwrench bolt biter works great
I would have put that dealership on blast, It would have taken them 5 minutes
I concur. They have a master set of key locks. I just recently left a FCA brand dealership. The one you featured is super common too.
After buying the car their and them telling me they couldn't help me I would have told them to take the car back and give me my money back and buy the car from another dealership
You can also grind it in the middle, hammer it with a chisel so large pry bar fits, then grab the pry bar with some vise grips or a socket if they have a handle that can fit one and take it off, it usually works if not buy a set of turbo sockets, those always seem to work
F that dealer and all dealers for that matter! Its ok for you and I who can figure out methods to get what we need done, but for the average Joe who doesnt have a bunch of tools and know how. They get screwed every time.
good job done. can u try to make a small hole in the center of plug nut and use extractor (used to remove broken bolts & nuts)
I lost one that was on my Ford truck & I got a flat tire. I used a small pipe wrench & it came right off.
Thanks 😊 I'll try that tomorrow
@@la1negrita If you get it in the right spot you can just step on it.
Back in the early 1980's we had to remove a similar wheel lock. I hammered a slightly smaller socket over the lock and easily removed the lock. I honestly thought the socket was the price of removing the lock but I was wrong. After extricating the lock from the socket I was able to use that socket for many years to come. I learned this trick from a junkyard.
Excellent tips! I am sure you can re-finish the wheel. Time consuming but doable!
Good job Sir, you are showing thieves how to steal a tire without a key
I would cut a slot on the wheel lock.
.....it's messed up how some dealerships can be....was interesting watching this video....gave it a thumbs up 👍
the dealer ship is just a stealing gang but in suits
Your still awesome! it's 2021 the grinder worked saved me a.. on this lug nut.
They wanted to know who installed your lift to figure out who removed the other 4 wheel locks my dude.
Exactly.
Thank you so much, this UA-cam video had just a bit of promotion but the content is impressive,
Love the way you presented the information. Its a common sense, approach , good example of logical improvisation that I love. Its helps instill that can do attitude to issues.
Literally did this two days ago on my spare. I went with grinding two flats and used a very heavy open end wrench and mallet.
Thanks - gonna try this today - I've been quoted an arm and a leg by the dealership and engineers to remove the lock nut.
For anyone wanting a more simple option.... Just shave down the top and bottom sides (enough to use a wrench). Less time and chance of damaging the rim with the grinding wheel.
they are often recessed too far to grind. welding would have to be through the inside of a hex nut.
☆I did it the hard way in my video. I tryed many way also. Great video as always. 👍
Use an air chisel and start at 5 o' clock pointing up on the outside edge !
5 AM or 5 PM?
Put a short piece of pipe , about 4 inches long over the lug and then weld the lug to the inside of the pipe. Welding inside the pipe also protects your wheels. And then use a pipe wrench on the pipe to loosen the lug. I did this on all 4 wheels on a Volvo. Works a treat.
Ya lets show thieves to take wheels off of without a key
Agree🤦
Add you actually believe he thought of something thieves have not. If so your slower than any thief out there.
did you try contacting mcgard who made the lock? Or are they still in business?
Never had any bug issues with my dealership over the years. I have had some concerns about their quality of work once or twice, but a chat with the service manager fixed that right up.
My biggest problem with them is the outrageous prices they charge for parts (and the labour rates are a bit high, too)....not really a huge issue. They are the only ones that have ever put a wrench on my Wrangler...aside from me swapping rims each season for my winter tires.
I did have a major problem back in November with the spare tire bracket! All three of the nuts had seized/rusted u-p pretty bad to the point that I ended up actually breaking the cast aluminium to get the summer spare off! A trip to a local Jeep store got me a new bracket for about 1/4 of what the dealership priced it at! I just got the rusted nuts/bolts out of my summer spare this weekend, so I’m all back to normal & ready to make the swap back to summer rubber in a couple weeks! °|||||||° 🤘🏼
Excellent video!!!!, sorry for your wheel
Most excellent! The 12-point socket did the trick! I was even able to get the lug nut out of the socket afterward with the help of a bolt screwed into the lug nut, then tapped out with the help of a vise and a screwdriver through the back-end of the socket. Thank you very much for an incredibly helpful video (and your follow-on video too!) :)