Mrs.O's Kia Sedona - Break In Oil Change
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- In this video I replace the "Break-In" oil on Mrs.O's new 2019 Kia Sedona. Now this is as debatable of a topic as is what oil to use in your car and how long to go between intervals. In her car I will be using Mobil 1 5w30 with an oil spec acea a5 and replacing it every 3750 miles using OEM oil filters. That should get people wound up for sure! Why do i do it like that? Besides being a VVT, GDI engine, our climate has severe temperature changes. Weather can go form -10°f to 50°f all in the same week. We drive dirt road daily with several short trips per day (less than 15 miles). Not to mention oil is cheap in the big picture, so if you are driving on extended oil change intervals what are you really saving over all? Remember we all have our own opinion.
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In this video I replace the "Break-In" oil on Mrs.O's new 2019 Kia Sedona. Now this is as debatable of a topic as is what oil to use in your car and how long to go between intervals. In her car I will be using Mobil 1 5w30 with an oil spec acea a5 and replacing it every 3750 miles using OEM oil filters. That should get people wound up for sure! Why do i do it like that? Besides being a VVT, GDI engine, our climate has severe temperature changes. Weather can go form -10°f to 50°f all in the same week. We drive dirt road daily with several short trips per day (less than 15 miles). Not to mention oil is cheap in the big picture so if you are driving on extended oil change intervals what are you really saving over all? Remember we all have our own opinion.
“Let me never fall into the vulgar mistake of dreaming that I am persecuted whenever I am contradicted.”
― Ralph Waldo Emerson
I'm a little disappointed in a cartridge style filter under car. You see them a lot when in engine compartment. Filter probably cheaper to buy going forward
That filter paper looks clean, have run 800hp 410ci unlimited methanol speedway engines on the engine dyno that have first change oil filters that are way dirtier and have lasted 2 and a half seasons before a refresh...... send it, Mrs O will be fine 👌
South Main Auto Repair LLC I would never criticize your decision on intervals. I have a 2003 Lincoln Town Car with a factory recommended interval of 10,000 mi using 5W20 synthetic blend but as soon as the free oil changes during the warranty ran out, I switched to Mobile 1. Still kept the same interval with OEM filter. I live in TN but if I lived in your area, I would shorten that interval too. So far after 230,000 mi, mine burns no oil and the seals are dry.
This change schedule will see the car lasting forever. People are penny wise and pound foolish with oil. Why gamble when oil and filters are cheap?
First oil change at 500 miles. drive it like you will be driving it every day
My old shop teacher had a really good point, many of these oils probably can last 10k ,15k or even 20k miles and plenty of time without breaking down significantly, but they're going to get dirty after about 5k miles no matter what filter you use. With how much modern engines use oil to actuate things (like VVT systems) and especially with how common GDI and Turbo chargers are nowadays, regular oil changes are more importan than ever.
When I bought my old Silverado (2003) at 120,000 miles, I changed my oil every 5,000 miles or every 4 months (whatever came first). I sold the truck with 262,000 miles and everything was fine - original engine and transmission (had to sell it because it didn't have a backseat, and need a backseat for kids). When I bought my new 2016 and drove it off the lot with 9 miles on it, I changed the oil at 500 miles, and now change it every 5,000 or every 4 months (again, whatever comes first) with the full synthetic recommended by GM. At 41,000 miles, I haven't had any issues at all - and I use my truck as a truck. I even did a transmission service at 40,000 miles (I tow and haul a lot), and did a drain-and-fill on the coolant (which I normally do every two years). The wife has a 2009 CRV with 145,000 miles and I've been doing the same thing with that since we met many years ago. No leaks, no burning fluids, and original drive train. Why? I learned a long time ago that the more you change your fluids, AND not beating the hell out of your vehicle, the longer your vehicle will last.
Its been 2 years, i bet you had to change an injector or two on that junk chevy
@@upurnose46 nope. Still original injectors and the truck just hit 75,000 miles. I’ve had zero issues to this day.
We regularly rebuild medium and heavy duty diesels onsite to reduce costs, minimise downtime, control standards and relevant specifications and fully utilized our extensive machine shop. Unlike most maintenance and mechanical workshops, we have a fully computerised engine dyno, which we use to break in rebuilds over a 70 hour period. Load and speed variations throughtout this period are controlled by 30+ sensors and learning algorithms that constantly monitor and adjust throughout this period. We use Australian made Penrite running in oil for diesels, which does not contain detergents or friction modifiers. Once the running in period is reached, the oil is drained, visually inspected, samples collected for independent laboratory testing, the oil filter cut open and the filter medium expanded and inspected for excessive contamination . If initial inspections indicate no damage, a new filter installed and fully synthetic oil used. As the work of a mining vehicle is classified as extreme duty, oil changes occur every 10k kilometres in medium duty and 1000hrs in heavy duty. 👍👍 Greeting from Woomera,South Australia
This sound really cool. I'm sure people would love to hear more about it!
Make videos.
My last name is Patterson
Cool stuff! Extreme duty sounds like a great way to go crazy with overbuilding and testing products, has to be a cool job.
@@JackS425 The smallest diesels we rebuild are 7 litres, and the occasional Toyota Landcruiser twin turbo. The largest is 42 litres from surface dumpies. All brands, from Caterpillar to Detroit to Hitachi, air cooled John Deeres to Tatra V8. We're not shy here !!! 👍👍
I appreciate the fact that you've built-in a procrastination buffer in your interval.
It Gives Mr Eric O time to book the vehicle in for its service. Well planned. Well played.
I'm a retired district engineer (radio technician) for the Missouri Highway Patrol. I've been retired 12 years so my info is dated. My district covered two troops and I drove alot. Every three years I would get a new 3/4 ton van (usually Dodge) but I did get a 98 Ford once. My instructions were to bring in the van every 5000 miles for maintenance starting from the day I picked it up. This is the same procedure that the Troopers followed on the Crown Vics. At the time we were using conventional oil (low bidder) that met specs. Engine problems were extremely rare, I never had any. Any engine I've personally rebuilt I've always changed the oil first time at 500 miles, mainly so I could eyeball the oil for anything out of order.
the majority of those were all "old school" high output truck engines, meaning they had 30+ years of working all the bugs out of the rotating assembly and large parts, the electronics were a different story of hateful anti-glory :)
As a former dealership service manager i totally agree with what your doing. With your maintenance schedule you should never have a problem and it’s cheap insurance. Thanks for cutting the filter apart to see what was caught. If everyone followed your advice there would be a lot less engine repair. Thx
Please dont say 'never have a problem'. I hate when car people say that to buyers. Every car, even Toyotas, have mechincal issues during their ownership.
And the stealerships would just charge more per service if people needed less repairs. So, no one would ever really save money.
I bought a rust protection package from my local Honda stealership for $700 and they refused to honor it as they promised. Totally lied and toally stole my money. Hence, they are called stealerships by many car owners.
Michael Let me clarify what I meant, from my experience I saw next to none oil related engine failures like crankshaft and related bearing failures from vehicles that had timely oil changes and not these new extended intervals. There may be other issues like head gaskets etc but nothing to do with timely oil changes. Too bad you had a problem, maybe call corporate would listen
@@Michael-fw5ef there u go.. u said Honda, over the year they have done so much wrong but people still buy them like hot bread.. i have seen and heard two much over the years, even vehicle and parts are way over priced for what they truly are.. 💰👎🏾
@@farmark457 I agree. Most engine failures are from people not doing the proper maintenance.
@@farmark457 Of all the cars I have owned my entire life, I have never seen any oil related failures. I use dino oil in my 2007 Highlander and it is going on 300k miles. Does not burn any oil. Unless the manufacturer recommends it, I do not use synthetic oil either. None are 100% synthetic. They are just dino oil with an extra additive package. "Cheap Insurance". Motor oil makers love that voice of the sucker with money to throw away.
Regular oil and filter changes are the best preventative maintenance you can do for any engine, I do mine every 6 months or 5000 miles.
I use full synthetic in everything I own. Push mower, zero-turn, snow blower. I never burn oil and the engines start right up every time.
And yet many, many people keep pushing it forward.. i any understand that money can be tight but you are doing more harm than good pushing it forward..
Actually overly frequent changes can cause intake and catalyst issues. The big reason OEMS are heavily pushing longer drain intervals.
@Bobby Brady Virgin motor oil has a very high rate of evaporation relative to used. Evaporative byproducts of motor oil sucked into the intake through the PCV and crankcase breather causes the GDI intake contamination occlusion problem.
Full synthetic at 5000 mi or 12 months for me. (I never used to hit the time interval, but I'm retired now, so I don't drive everyday.)
Eric, about that Mistubshi Outlander Sport that had foil stuck in the oil port from the head. The foil did not make it past the filter. It sounds like during the first oil change, the first owner PRE-FILLED a new oil filter directly from a new oil jug, and a piece of the foil was introduced into the INSIDE of the filter, which is the clean side. Then when he installed the pre-filled oil filter on the engine, that piece of foil was pumped into the engine galleys within seconds of startup.
My ol' man dumped the paper cap gasket from a diesel treatment into his fuel tank on his Duramax he used to own - thing left him for dead on the side of the road. Had to get towed. That little paper blocked the fuel pickup in the tank! I think he must've just unscrewed the cap and jammed it in the fill neck without looking.
Or it fell in the engine when the oil was out in... Still scope right there for it to block off an oil feed. The old "Pinto Engine" based Ford Cortina OHC in the Uk circa 1970's you could damage the oil spray bar just pouring the oil in if you shoved the funnel too far in... Problem with the UK version of the engine was that the cam came out the back of the head so it had to come off to repair.
@@SmittySmithsonite lol I've seen similar happen in our shop.
I agree that is a likely explanation. Another is that the foil was poured into the sump, and sucked up by the oil pump when the engine was cold. Cold oil bypasses the oil filter because the pressure is too high. It goes directly to the engine unfiltered until it warms up. Even then, during very high rpm the filter is bypassed because the pump just can't move that much volume through the filter. Pressure is a resistance to flow. Low flow of oil will kill the engine.
This is why you dont pre-fill. It doesnt do anything but introduce contaminates directly into the engine. Putting in a dry oil filter is fine and does nothing to hurt the engine.
I was schooled in break in oil via a JD Tech, who had many hours of classroom training from Deer. The atypical property of break in oil includes a fine, clay. While at first glance, a clay body to oil particulate might seem odd, but he went on to mention, via engineering delivery, the clay, acted much like polish. There in to reduce friction points at close tolerance. With, a strict interval to the next hour, mile (metered) change out. After that initial "break in", recommended "spec" as per your EU example, was the recommended fill. For this reason, break in oil was not suitable for a "top off" of a working engine...and should be understood to indeed, break in only as use.
As for interval, I suspect multiples of opinion. But I use 3000 miles, in part because I like to fuss over the needed change to inspect everything and execute interior clean. Glass, wipers, tire tread, and grease any zerk fittings. That interval care at visual inspection, can catch and prevent
costly larger issues. Clean air filters save gas costs. Well maintained cars add to drive safety. M.
mark mcgary )
Had a rep on my ship for the engines (really big diesels, 3500 hp), had a case where rings wouldn't seat, ran engine tied to pier at high idle and shook Bon Ami cleanser (hasn't scratched yet) into intake, problem solved. thankfully pier didn't move.
Agree with break-in oil change being done at 1k miles.
Also agree with OCI at severe.
To the doubters: RTFM... OBEY it too.
Worked at GM dealership as a kid and the service supervisor always recommended @ first 500-1000 miles on new vehicles. Engines he built himself he never bothered until 3000 miles because he controlled the quality of the fit and finish during assembly. Also loved sticking magnets on the oil plug or filter.
Oil, is the most contentious subject on most social media sites related to car/motorcycle enthusiasts. I find find it amusing that people will not use synthetic oil cuz it cost too much, and then post pictures of all kinds of useless bling, that they install on the cars or bikes. The best oil, is cheap insurance, in my opinion.
I've been using Castrol GTX oil since 1974. I've had it in motorcycles... three wheelers ..Acuras ..Chevys.. Fords.. you name it. Never had any trouble. Change every 5000 miles. Oil gets contaminated with all kinds of stuff. I'm not saying synthetics are not good oils cuz I'm sure they are. But the oils of 1970s are not the oils of today. Dinosaur oil is still great oil.
Or cheap oil and change it more often
@@ItsMrAssholeToYou out here in the sticks we can get dino oil for $1.50 a quart. When your 230k mile engine leaks from every gasketed surface its pretty handy to live on the cheap.
A $2 quart of oil that has all the certifications is as good as your $10 quart of oil that has the same certifications. You can change the $2 quart of oil 5x more often for the same price (minus the oil filter extra cost).
Where synthetics will shine better is under extreme conditions, like below zero it will retain its flow better.
So, a 5 quart engine you will save $40 an oil change, there is some of that 'useless bling' you are talking about. Maybe I think your $30 a side wipers are bling when some rain-x on the windshield you could go without wipes 99% of the time and cheapo wipers for $2 each can do good enough for that last 1% of the time.
Maybe I find your car having power steering and a/c to be bling you paid extra for on your car, as well as your automatic transmission. You could save a ton of money buying a hyundai accent without power windows. Your heated steering wheels and seats are also bling. Imagine how many more synthetic oil changes you could do if you bought a base model fiesta instead of a Rav4!!!! Even better, ride a bicycle and you only have to oil your chain!!! You'll be much healthier to boot! Cars are useless bling in general! Use public transportation, better for everyone for your bling not to be spewing fumes in the air!!!
The only contentious thing is the pretentious people like you who assume people who personalize their car don't care for it. Yes, people argue, but there is actual science out there to have a factual opinion on the subject. Remember, people will argue over anything, and many people preferred to remain uninformed so they don't have to change their paradigm. And yes, people do stupid shit to their vehicles, like the 30 degree camber stance crowd, 'stretching' skinny tires on wide rims and cutting springs; but just saying useless bling, well that is so vague and subjective, it is a pointless, selfish statement.
I use only full syn and do a 3k oil change even though vw thinks 10k is ok fuck that noise syn is not for longer drops but longer life so do not thing full syn with a longer drop interval will actually save you money it doesn't and wont
I agree totally on the foil lid. I was so disturbed about that I wrote to Mobile one. They sell the best oil, but have this dangerous side effect of trying to get the package open without introducing a piece of foil in the process. I suggested they use what comes in a quart of orange juice. Its a foil seal with a 1/2 flap that you pull, it comes off easily and completely. Orange juice 3 dollars, Mobile one 25 dollars, seems a no brainer. As expected I never heard anything back from them.
If you can't get an oil seal off, Jay. I don't want you on the road. Maybe in the road, but not in a car.
We have it on milk here in Australia, they just started doing it a couple years ago. They don’t always come off cleanly, or at all, and sometimes you have to pierce the seal with scissors.
@@garymiller2056 If you're implying that anyone who would let a bit of foil get into their crankcase by mistake shouldn't be on the road, you might need to recalibrate your automotive morality meter unless you've never made a mistake yourself. No one is immune to mistakes- just ask Eric O! Arguing for a seal design that doesn't introduce the potential for oil contamination seems like a logical improvement to me. Telling someone they shouldn't be on the road because of some arbitrary container-opening test is a weird qualification- Maybe California will add that to their regs someday. ;). Let's all hope their test container isn't a Capri-sun with a broken straw.
@@MediumHalf Gary Miller is an obvious child and his mommy should take his computer privileges away.
Use a funnel with a screen.
Never had the opportunity to 'break in' a new car..but judging from the oil in this case, it is a well deserved position to do such an oil change..and put in some fresh clean oil and new filter..cleaning up all the old...!!
Strangely enough, I had a Kia Sephia, I changed the "break in" oil at 500 miles, then at 1,000 miles then started the 3,000 mile intervals from then on. Upon taking it to be fixed for an oil leak, the tech informed me that the engine is strong and powerful compared to other Sephia's. I told him my oil change intervals, he said brilliant! My 00 Yukon I dumped the transmission fluid every year (filter and fluid) and got 150,000 miles out of the original 4L60E. Every mechanic I talked to about rebuilding was amazed I got so many miles out of it. Change that fluid, it's cheap. I do the same thing as you did. Nothing wrong with doing that!
Had 230k on my 4l60. 0 miles of that was towing. Truck never had a hitch or even a trailer light plug in.
I change the oil every oil no matter what. I own a Kia Ceed SW 1,6 from 2009
My 4l60e has 227000 on it still running strong
@@christopherburns6590 my 4L60E in my 99 Tahoe has 274k on it but needs to be rebuilt due to not having 3rd/4th.
150K miles isn't much for a car.
Still can't believe the Best Auto Channel on UA-cam still has sub 300k subs. Come on people press that button.
I think the problem is they like him so much that they press it twice in all the excitement.
Actually Scotty just had a video out today saying the Kia was a more economical option over the Toyota or the Honda!
Get Ryan to unbox parts!
... and ring that bell!
I was amazed at the metal particles in that filter when you cut it open....I have seen fine metal filings in the drained oil, but seeing them slivers and particles of metal made a believer out of me to change it earlier than the manufacturer says to !!!!! I have rebuilt engines, done valve jobs, and cam and lifters, and timing chain changes and never pictured what I saw in that filter core !!!!! From today, I will ALWAYS use a good quality filter and name brand oil with the required recommended ""types"" !!! Thanks, Eric, for opening my eyes to this !!!! My wife wants to see Mrs. O in more videos, perhaps in her business setting of the office, and likes when she helps you do things like turn the key, pump the brakes. a woman's moral support ... etc ... !!!!!! And thanks for doing the "" Tire Plugging "" videos that I asked you to do !!!! We love the show !!!!!!
I would never question you or criticize you for when you change your engines oil and filters. These criticizes probably use recycled engine oils or someone used oil after it’s been used. I had a friend back in the muddle 70’s that wanted my used rear tire on my CB750 Honda motorcycle. He would run my old tire until I put on another new one. 👍🏻 keep up your repair work and service as though you were working on your vehicles and or the customer was standing beside you and being truthful. You will always have your regular customers and new ones from word of mouth. I know you already know this. These are some of the reasons why I like to watch your videos👍🏻.
I know this is an older video. I buy used cars that broke in a looooong time ago! My 12 Kia Forte came to me with 91K on it in Feb of '21. I now have 143K on it. No leaks, burn or use...period. The only difference I see on the stick is color. Level stays where it's supposed to. With all the talk lately about Hyundai and Kia engines, I think I got a good one! Thanks Eric for all you do to educate us out here.
My first three oil changes are done at 600 mile intervals. I see no problem doing it. It's mine and I'll do what I want with it. Like you said, "Cheap Insurance".
yes.
Amen to that , fully agree..
I always change my oil early. For the price and peace of mind its a no brainer. Keep up the good work 🤙🏻
Cheap insurance
Man Kia has come a long way, I remember when it was a good idea to take a new Kia to the shop and make sure all the bolts were tight.
Or the good ol, “buy one, get one free,” sales they used to run. Buy a van, get a basic model coupe/sedan.
We always change oil on new or rebuilt engines. The main point is it can't hurt even if you don't agree...………………..Nice job Eric
Ok, I am something a bit more than the average DIY parking lot mechanic (used to work some time ago as a diesel mechanic on cruise ships), but years away from the PRO you are. I am just glad that you confirmed some of my regular practices (that I didn't learn from some one, I just used common sense), and will continue watching you videos with a lot of interest. As for the oil - 3000-3500 for smaller, city driven, small oil pan 4-6cyl engines is enough. For my V8 5.3L work van which I mainly use on the highway I can stretch it for a 4000-5000 or even a bit more service interval. This was my way of thinking and even if I used full synt and at the time of the oil change, the oil passed the 'rubbing finger test', I did it like this.
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4WD Mobil 1 Synthetic since it’s 1st oil change. Every 4,000 miles for the last 20 years. My brother thinks I change it too often but I point out I still own the same truck. Works for me regular fluid changes and correct fluid volumes.
i have a camry same oil in go around 5k do a lot of high speed interstate driving
Lol, this was the next recommended video after watching Mrs. O do an oil change on her odyssey and proclaim she was never getting rid of it.
The divot on the top is so it will drain if you are changing your oil while your Car is upside down.
Thats funny ..pissa....🤣
I like that!
Out of the box thinking you see, its what makes the country great!!
Lol
Works perfectly in Australia
Been wrenching since the late 70’s..I change the oil in all my vehicles between 3,000-3,500 miles..I’ve been told I’m wasting money..well it’s my money and it’s my car..Happy New Year to the O’s from Pennsylvania.
So rare to see such a clean underside of a car on this channel. I never follow the manufacturer's recommendation on the number of miles before changing the oil. My Grandfather always preached that you change the oil every 3000 miles, and I have followed that advice to this day. I have never had a major mechanical problem on any of my vehicles and I typically keep a vehicle for at least 10 years. I do the same on my motorcycle. When people criticize me, I just reply that I am not asking them to pay for the oil.
Can't fault the logic. Pretty much exactly what I'd do. It's called preventative maintenance.
Except more oil changes is the root cause of the GDI intake problems.
I call it "Pre Planned Maintenance". As soon as you figure the average mileage, it's easy enough to set the service interval without setting counters.
All I'd worry about is the old "Cobblers son" syndrome.
@@markpitz3800 I'm unsure if you could be any more wrong. Congrats?
I follow 3k for Conventional, 4/5k for Syn Blend Depending on vehicle, 6k for Syn with gas engines. My diesel I usually run about 5-6K.
I do all these steps when I do an oil change. old or new engine. It makes me feel good.
What i like about your videos and i watch almost all of them is how detail you are about explaining everything just like the back of the oil container with being a European specs i never knew that. Great job on your videos.
Eric your right on the money.. new oil/ new filter cheap insurance.
My older brother has a 2000 Ford Super duty Dooley , Trident V 10 gas rig ., 2 valve Awesome gas mileage 😝
454,000 mile original miles, rebuilt transmission .. religiously changes the oil every 3,500 -4,000 miles..Ca emissions passes without fail, uses it everyday for work… he works that truck!!
Thanks again,
Great video!
I think break in oil is a good thing I also belive it's good to change it sooner then later
I Change the oil within the first 1000 miles on Break in after I run 3000 mile intervals for oil changes I have vehicles that have 260000 miles and still have the same power as when they was new
Well , here's one for you. I have a 2008 Tundra 4.7 v-8. It is pool service truck in Phoenix. We do 10,000 mile changes with Mobil 1 , this truck has 355,000 miles now and runs as good as ever. I'm just sayin .
USE SYNTHETIC AT 5-7000 MILES
3500 IS TOO EARLY FOR ANY OIL CHANGE
GO BY THE MILES NOT THE MONTHS
That logic will hurt you with GDI due to excessive exposure to new motor oil.
Nicely done, guy~ As a former Hyundai/Kia lube technician, I can say the factory filter is a very high quality and the use of Mobil 1 synthetic at the first oil change is a very good move~ As far as the supplier of bulk oil at dealerships is concerned, it really can vary a LOT. I've worked at some dealers where they bring in some off-branded oil that is distributed by Valvoline, Shell or even Chevron, and even one sad dealership that actually had the gall to use Pennzoil (BARF!). I also totally agree on your service interval on Mobil 1, as it will be totally acceptable in your area for your use.
Keep up the awesome work and videos. Love the channel. If I'm ever in your neck of the woods and need work done on my car, I'm certain to stop in and see ya~ B-)
Mobil 1 and there filters I use on my Lexus and VW both V6
I would sit and listen to Eric talk through oil changes for hours.
Not to do with break-in, but the wife's Hyundai (sister of the KIA) had about 80000 miles on it when the engine seized up. The replacement engine was covered by Hyundai. Evidently the factory didn't clean all of the machining debris out of the block before assembly. We responded to the recall and took it in to get it checked at about 40000. No problem. About a month before the seizure, she took it in for an oil change and the guy sold her on an engine de-gunking. I think that released the shavings and sand and crud that had been held in place by the gunk. Thank you Hyundai for doing the right thing. We did rent a Sedona a couple of years back. Very nice cars. Good choice. And, no timing belt to replace!
"You would think i killed a unicorn" Best LMFAO comment ever!
I do my oil changes at the same interval and I too have never had an engine fail on me. I call it cheap insurance!
Hi, I think you are doing it fine with the oil change, The MAHLE brand ( pronounced MAALE ) is a German quality brand that makes a lot of car stuff, I think they started out making pistons, I would love to be living near to you, you would for sure taking care of my car. A good old handmade thumbs up to you and yours.
In heavy equipment we cut filters and inspect them pretty frequently. We also sample oil, you don’t need to guess on oil intervals, get an analysis done every few changes. They can tell you if your running your oil to long or changing it to soon.
Since the early 1980’s I have used AMSOIL. I have changed oil on new cars and trucks between 500 and 1000 miles. Then switched to AMSOIL and change it once per year or every 15,000 miles. Never had any problems yet.
Thanks for the tip! Man wish you were located around me!
Me too. All my cars would go to him
For rebuilt motors and even brand new motors I think it's cheap insurance and a great practice
yes.
I really like how you choke up on the wrench and ratchet when tightening to keep from over tightening. Hope the viewers caught that too. Excellent Bruddah.
Please elaborate, interested in what you are referring to.
@@mikewoo7999 13mins 35 seconds into the video. its the technique of holding the wrench to apply leverage close to the oil drain plug as opposed the the end of the the wrench to apply a greater amount of pressure with increased leverage. Baseball also has "choking up on the bat" the position your hands sit higher up to reduce some of the properties of how hard you swing the bat.
I've always heard about a break in oil change on a rebuilt engine but not on a brand new car. However I've wondered about that. Watching you check the oil and filter for particles explains all very well.
I just sold a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 and it had 210k on the original motor,I was the second owner and I kept with the routine of the original owner and changed the oil at 2500 miles and I had no issues,in fact, I had to replace a broken valve spring and when I pulled the valve cover I couldn't believe how clean it was in there,I even checked the timeing chain and it was nice and tight,so yes changing your oil on the regular is definitely beneficial
Never owned a new car to ever change break in oil. But, I have always changed mine every 3,000. Always looked at as you said cheap insurance.
For the tin foil, yes make sure every lose bit of it is gone. Had a customer come in with a steering rack leaking. Changed it all went well until I started it. Morning, groaning all kinds of noise. Come to find out there was foil blocking a port in the reservoir
I lost some foil in my power steering reservoir a few years ago and spent an hour trying to fish it out.
19:41 Absolutely on Ford engines! Earlier this fall I had to replace the oil filter cooler block gasket on my 2006 2.3L Escape. After the job was done, filled with oil, checked level on stick 3 times, topped off, sent my wife down the road. 2 days later--big oil leak near the rear main seal...I had gotten tricked by the stick and overfilled the damn thing. It seems to bubble up the dipstick tube while running and gives a cold, false-positive reading, and must check level like 5 or 6 times until you get a constant reading....ugh.
Hyundai/Kia oil filters are fabulous quality filters. I use them on my Honda.
I wonder how many of those commenting have pulled down and rebuilt engines? I follow the OEM recommendations for service interval, including the first change (depending on manuf this could be as little as 1500KM). I have recently pulled down a mitsubishi 6G75 V6 that had 256000Kms (about 160000 Miles). I could still see the cross hatching in every bore from engine manufacture, and there was no lip in the bores which were measured to be within OEM tolerances for standard, and piston grooves were also within OEM standard dimensions.
The inside of the engine was a testament to modern synthetic oil technology and proper service intervals (12500Km/12 Months here in Aus for that engine). It was clean inside.
You cannot change your oil and filter too often in my experience.
Hey, YOU are the mechanic with the knowledge and experience. I am the retired software engineer with 35 years experience. I will always trust your advice. Keep the faith, brother. Keep the faith. Mike in CA.
A clean engine is a happy engine less wear less heat if you do it eric o style thanks eric this is VERY VALUEABLE INFRORMATION.
didn't want to change the timing belt on the old honda so Mrs. O got a new car lol. i do all my oil changes at 5000 miles as well. with variable valve timing and how finicky the solenoids and phasers can be is cheap enough to do.
You seem to forget that Eric O already did the timing belt long way ago. It was never filmed in the process. It was mentioned in the WUW last year.
@@AP9311 i never catch the WuWs my bad.
I love the smell of brake clean in the morning....
I am getting to be a senior citizen at age 62, I have broke in quite a few brand new motors in. I know the modern manufacturing of engines has come a long way. I still do my 1 2 3 oil & filter changes at 500mi, 1000, 1500 miles. then every 4500 miles. I know it is overkill but I am a seasoned mechanic and that is my way of "taking the trash out".
I like to cut the filter element radially, leaving the ends on the center piece. I also wrap the paper in a rag and squeeze out the oil in a vice. This really makes any bits show up easier. I have opened many, many filters and every one of them has had a few, tiny bits of metal. Some had lots and lots of metal. Those were the ones that got rebuilt or sent to auction.
SMA, Please do a video applying Fluid Film on Ms. O’s Kia!
2:55 - Now I have to use the restroom. I love the idea of doing this type of break-in oil change. Get that "glitter" out of there, since oil & filters are pretty cheap! Good story about the foil seal found in the Mitsubishi.
I'm shocked to see that much metal content floating around in a new modern engine. Thankfully the filter is doing its job.
I wonder if hoodoo would have that much crop floating about
In the past I have always followed a 500 mile, the a 1000 mile spill and fill on a new or rebuilt engine. Most of the break-in occurs in the first 500 miles. In modern engines with dual overhead cams, large galleries in the head for the cams and VVT, anywhere from 10-20% of oil remains in the engine. This is unlike the older days of solid lifters, single cam and rocker arm valve design. Blackstone Labs confirmed this is the case with new engines, especially those with coolers and turbos. I have oil analysis showing retention of 20% of wear metals, loss of viscosity and additives, fuel dilution, and increase in oxidation within the first 15 miles after a spill and fill. I have started flushing the engine with an inexpensive oil to achieve a 99% replacement. I then use it in an older car or save as a flush oil. Industrial Lubrication has a good article on Short Volume Oil Changes and perils it introduces. It is well established, the cleaner the oil, the longer life you can expect from the engine.
The story about the ladies car with the loud cam followers is more common than some may think. GM has TSB on inferior filters or contamination of the oil restriction orifices between the block and head, that cause this problem. The foil you found likely came from a DIY'r that pre-filled the center of the filter with oil from a bottle and small sliver of the foil made it into the post filter area. Not likely it made it past both the sump strainer and the filter. Always completely remove the plastic and foil before pouring the contents.
I recommend that DIY'r always buy by the bottle or jug. For independents I recommend sealed drums direct from the manufacturer. Bulk oil is much dirtier than jugs and drums. Why? They pass through multiple tanks, hoses, trucks and the holding tank at shop or dealer almost never gets cleaned. Ii wondered if this was true, so I had Polaris Labs test a quart of AC Delco Dexos approved oil from the dealer and a sample of the same make and grade of oil was taken from the dispenser at the quick lube lane also at the same GM dealer. They even allowed me to photograph the 500 gallon holding tank. Their oil is delivered by a third party. The results showed the bulk oil was 32x more contaminated by hard particulates than the quart bottle. Much of those are smaller than the rating on a typical full flow filter, which is 20-25 microns, and size of particulates that cause the majority of wear in an engine (4-15 microns).
Lastly, if your car is GDI, follow severe service intervals, get the oil tested once a year for fuel dilution using a lab uses Gas Chromatography, or sooner if you notice higher than normal oil level, or a strong fuel smell in the oil. The high pressure fuel pumps are cam driven and when the seals leak, they can dump a lot of fuel into your oil in short period of time.
Bottom Line - if you intend on keeping your car beyond the warranty period and is a major investment, change your own oil, perform a flush with only clean oil, not solvent flushes, and always use quart or jugs from a reputable manufacturer, and use good quality filter. Good oil and complete oil change is cheap insurance.
A high quality filter is a must if you're going to push your synthetic oil to the limit. I use a high quality filter, 20k full synthetic and never go over 10k miles between changes. I've never had a problem. I also installed a fumoto valve on the pan on which you can attach a drain tube to make it super easy to change as my filter is in the engine compartment. As far as break in changes I always buy a sacrificial quart and after 750 miles I drain the oil completely, close it up, tilt the car away from the plug, dump the quart of oil thru, tilt it towards the plug, then open and drain to flush the bottom of the pan. I don't know if it actually helps but it makes me feel good.
19:16 thank you! I got a G70 3.3 recently and I noticed the ticks are pretty loud, but do quiet out after warmup.
Thank you for confirming the "break in" function on new/rebuilt engines. Of the engines I have worked with, only one had ridges in the cylinders at rebuild point, It had not been "broken in" instead had the oild changed at 5k from day one. (rebuild was occurring at 75k).
Have always broken engines in, and always will. Thanks again. PS: change the filter every time. ;)
Hey Eric! I was shocked to see so much metal shavings in the oil pan and filter. I have never seen anything like that on any of my vehicles over the years with one exception a brand new 94 Chevy Silverado truck when I reached 25k miles on it, the main bearings were shot and come to find out they were an experimental bearings I was told. I was the unlucky one to get one of these engines. Needless to say they reluctantly replaced the engine at no charge to me. Not sure why KIA engines would have this much debris on the first oil change, I would be curious to see what you find on the next oil and filter change. The only thing I can think of is the engine tolerances are quit loose or so tight to allow this much engine wear. Just say'n. Keep up the good info on these videos.
Most likely the tolerances are crazy tight. Most newer engines have plenty of clearances less than a thousandth of an inch .001 I just did a rebuild of my 22 year old Honda engine, and some of the main bearing clearances are as low as .0005 I mean, I can't even find any plastigage that gets near that small.
I owned a '73 Fiat Sport Coupe, no filter, oil filter was a slinger on the end of the crank. I rebuilt it and changed the oil out after an hour of run time. Cleaned the slinger and got a shop rag filled with 'sparklies' when I hit it with brake cleaner. Oil change every 3k, no problems out of it till the frame rusted through about 20k later, motor was still running strong, for an 850cc 4 cyl.
Wow, you should turn up your furnace, 6F is pretty cold in your shop! ... guess the temp display in that Kia takes a while to update. I've been using Mobil 1 since 1976. Back then it was $4.00 a quart ($18.00 adjusted for inflation) and was only available from Mobil service stations. I change it in my 2018 Silverado according to the OLM (oil life monitor) which works out to around 7500 miles. It holds 8 quarts, so I figure that would be like a 3500ish oil change on the V8 engines of old that "only" held 5 quarts. I also do an early oil change on new engines. Honda was adamant about NOT changing the oil early, claiming they use a special break-in oil, so I stretched the first change to 2,500 on that engine (V6). It is so nice to work on a new car. Everything is pristine! Congratulations on the new vehicle. I'm sure Mrs. O is thrilled!
I do rhe same. 1000 mile oil change on new/rebuild engines. On the transmission, 10000 mile spill and fill change too
I love brake clean but goddamn you really let it rip
ahh the brakeleen shot made my day Eric O's the man!
I live in Canada. I have always changed my oil new vehicles after the first 500 - 1000 km. Then always every 5000 - 8000 km. I always use factory oil filers. Way back when I was in high school shop class I brought my dad’s new vehicle in for its first oil change at 500km. And again at 5000km. We cut open the filter from both changes and the oil filter from 500km had more crap in it then the one from 5000km. I have been sold on this ever since. Oil and filter changes are the cheapest insurance policy for engine longevity and reliability.
Agreed 100% in "Break in" oil & filter changes. Spent nearly 30 years in the Ag tractor business. WE always figured in break-in oil & filter change on new tractor sales and never had a engine related issue not caused by owner/operator error. For our personal and business vehicles we did break-in if/when be bought new vehicles. Beyond that I have always done oil & filter changes at 3k to 3500 miles. Have heard hundreds of times, oil & filter maintenance is always cheaper than engine rebuilds and I agree. On some occasions, if we were interested in engine condition via oil investigation, we bought a package of commercial coffee filters,(large diameter), set one in a large funnel then drained the oil into that filter. They always caught evidence of wear via metal particles, large & small. Filter cutaways also were done. Same went for diesel fuel filters.... $ 0.02
"That thing was dryer than a popcorn fart..." lmao, I needed a good laugh today
Oh no, you got rid of the Hondoo!! I wish you all the best, I know you work your ass off, and being able to get your wife and kids a new minivan and pay their health insurance, etc., takes a lot of sacrifice. You're the man, you're the type of guy our country should be working to protect, not the bozos in Washington. Take care.
You didn't torque the drain plug. Haha
Yikes - My BMW requested it's first oil change at 20k miles. It did make my eye twitch a bit as I usually don't go more than 10k, but I was assured by the dealer it was no problem on new engines... maybe this is part of their planned obsolescence strategy?
"I was assured by the dealer" - ha, ha, ha.
Maybe it's part of the dealer's retirement strategy!!?
+Beyond Repair - Yeah when you put it like that :)
+gary bulwinkle - Yup you are probably right on that one.
My last BMW engine (In a Rover) lasted 160k and was still ticking with 10k oil changes... the car around it was not worth maintaining at that point.
A top quality synthetic with a high percentage of ester base stock can easily go that that sort of mileage in modern engine BUT if you intend keeping the car for the long term you would have to be 100% sure the dealer was using only the very best long life synthetic oil.
Mini "recommends" the first oil change at 10k miles. I took it in at ~1400 miles and the service people were genuinely shocked I wanted it done.
I don't have the Mini any more.
You never know when the oil will break down it’s always a good thing to change before it gets there relatively cheap insurance for an engine And a good filter I see so many people buying the cheapest filters for a $60,000 vehicle makes no sense Awesome videos
I bought my 98 F150 two days after it was built. I did oil changes at 500 and 1,000 miles and every 3,000 since. Never anything but Mobil 1 5W30 and a Motorcraft filter. Now at 209,000 and still doesn’t burn or leak a drop. I use that $hit in everything including the lawn mower.
Mama got a brand new car. :) My new car will get an oil change at 500 miles. That will probably be next year before it's due however. I've had it two months and put 45 miles on it. It is a Chrysler with the 3.6 after all, and I'm scared to drive it.
LOL Wyatt - yeah I'd be scared too with what they get for the stuff today! 😁 Good plan on the 500 mile change. I'd probably do three 500 mile changes at first, if it were mine. Seems everything these days eats timing chains and cam phasers.
Why would you do that to yourself
Go enjoy it!
Who knew you could make a oil change interesting?
Love the vids I'm a tech at kia dealership so funny seeing the Sedona
Grew up with mechanical engineer for my dad. While he only purchased one new car in his life, our garage always had vehicles purchased from auctions that we would rebuild the engines. He always subscribed to the philosophy of 500mile break in period. I enjoy your channel because how and why you decide to fix whatever your task is. May not be “popular” to everyone; however, wise and practical reasoning. Reminds me of how my dad used to do things. You throw fewer tools and have much less profanity. Lol. Thanks!
As a retired diesel mechanic of 30+ years I have friends, neighbors and people ask me quite often what oil do I recommend and my reply is oil; which usually leads to what oil do I use in my personal vehicles.
My usual reply is series 3 motor and in the same breath tell them to talk to a oil manufacturer or oil distributor for the definition of series 3 motor oil. And some do they home work and come back and say to me ( with a BIG question mark on their brow) you use diesel oil in your car and pickup??? Aren't they gas engines??? And my usual reply is you see that old push mower it has a Briggs and Stratton 3&1/2 motor that has running on Mobil Delvac 15W 40 for over 25 years!!!!
Nothing beats good maintenance practices!!!
I agree with changing the oil early to eliminate pumping all that debris through the engine. The oil pump eats all that stuff unfiltered.
your next oil change should be 1000mi also to finish getting junk out,
You could use a paint strainer as well, push it in a long BG funnel and drain the oil through it. That's what I do for atf drains when I suspect debris
Coffee filters, the biggest for commercial makers like you find in a Waffle House or whatever are great for this too and they make cheap anti lint cloths for cleaning too
I’m a Toyota man and my latest is a 2018 Highlander. The first oil and filter change at 600 miles. The normal maintenance is Mobil 1 oil and OEM Toyota oil filter changes every 5000 miles.
All of my Toyota’s in the past (barring accidents) have lasted over 220k before I traded them.
I would change the break-in oil at 500, then 750, then 1000. BTW, use 303 Aerospace Protectant to preserve all those rubber & plastic components, keeping them from being dry & brittle, especially in a hot engine bay. I detail as a hobby & have gone through most rubber preservers & this one is a good bang for the buck & works top notch. Buy it by the gallon.
The Hyundai dealer wanted $48.99 for an oil filter for my Santa Fe 😂😂😂 didn't even offer me a happy ending
Most oil changes here in Ontario start at $50 for conventional oil and go well over $130 for synthetic. I buy Mobil One and a quality filter for under $50 and do it at home. Recycling oil and filters is free at the area dump.
@@Musclecar123 the oil was another $97. Add labour too and it's a $250 oil change
49bucks for just filter with out labor is something really wrong. my tucson disel oil filter cost 5bucks or 7 for bosch filter.
not even a kiss?!?
use mann hummel filters they are the OEM manufacturer for hyundai filers the filter should even say mann hummel on it under the hyundai logo.
Good information
I agree with you
Oil/filter change is a good idea
Both my vehicle have magnetic drain plugs
Easy to monitor engine health
I've never done a break-in oil change, cause I've never owned a "new" vehicle or rebuilt my engine.
They didn't have automobiles in your day General Lee.
I buy my cars and don't lease so oil changes are cheap insurance for me too. I tend to keep my cars for 100,000 - 200,000 miles. I change my own oil and I use full synthetic and change it every 4000 miles. I do a lot of short trips, my commute is only 19 miles to work and in the winter the oil temp is just getting to the normal range when I pull in. In the summer I do a lot of idling so 4000 miles is just right for me. Plus my car is a 4 cylinder turbo charged GDI engine. Thanks again for the video.
I also go by the severe schedule, but I allow it to go to 4,000. Just seemed like a nice, even number that's easy to remember. I honestly never used the service interval feature on our Sedona. 78,000 miles as of this writing. My wife loves it.
Now will that cover the last 10 years hundred thousand mile warranty on the powertrain is that any good even though the Frame will Rot away in seven years in that New York salt
On a kia its faster than that. Their rust protection is atroceous. They are great first hand cars though but I would never buy one seckond hand after working in a Kia/Huyundai dealer. (Sweden= Similar climate and road salt)
Mr 'O' may decide to to spray that stuff on it(crown??) like he has done on some of his other vehicles...?
@Bobby Brady Doesnt mean that other manufacturers dont do it better from factory though. Here they all do some rust protection as standard but the quality of the jobs is very varied. Hyundai/Kia were the worst of the 7 brands i have worked with so far though. Even mazda and peugeot which are brands people generally complain about rust on are miles better.
rimmersbryggeri for me it’s always been Chevy rusting within 3 years of ownership. I’ve own a Kia now for 6 years and the body looks new still. Undercarriage is a lil rusty but not even half as bad as Chevy. I’m up north Canada. But I can see Kia being cheap on rust protection since the cars are not expensive. The tires suck as well. Maybe I got lucky with mine.
@@breakwood8531 We only get Korean chevys over here if that and also isuzus which are branded chevy and gmc over there which I have actually worked on but none old enough to judge about rust issues. Their brake calipers were a little obtuse though.
Welcome to the Korean car club 😎 They make nice reliable cars these days and tasty food 👍
Buy American !
David Klimmek old American cars were good, now new ones aren’t by far
Forget about the oil for a minute... How is it you’ve never heard of Mahle??? They make excellent gaskets so I bet the filter is good too.
Florida Two Wheel Adventures Mahle (‘maa lay) is a German company. Famous for pistons, like those in my 911. They also make the oil filter and valve cover gasket for my 4.0 Jeep motor. Surely Eric knows that and was kidding.
Karl von Eschenhof let’s hope. Otherwise I’m not sure the world makes any sense!
I saw a Mahle sticker on the side of a NASCAR.
@@7viewerlogic670 Ferrari F1 , they do quite a few F1 components, their combined direct injector/ spark plug is a marvel, Have a radiator manufacturer here that does radiators for F1, Nascar and our own V8 supercar series (better than Nascar)
It's pronounced "MAHlee."
I only rebuild older Ford 302 engines so I use Lucas break in oil for the first 3 changes. I break the cam in then change the oil, go seat the rings and put about 50 miles on it then change the oil and finally I drive it in a variety of locations at various RPM levels for 500 miles before switching to the oil I'm going to run for the life of the engine. I do take it easy on any new build for about 3k miles.
When I buy a new vehicle like my wife's 2016 Chevy Trax I change the oil at 500 miles then went to the factory 7500 mile intervals with Chevron full synthetic and wix XD or Napa Gold filters.
I've done both. On my 1998 Chevy K1500 truck with the 5.7L that I bought new and still own, I changed the original oil at about 500 miles. This truck has always used a little bit of oil between my 3,000 mile changes. I did find out that it didn't like Mobil 1 because it would tick when using it and it would use more oil than normal. I've used many different brands of oil in it over the years but had been using Trop Artic for several years and am now using the Phillips 66 Shield which replaced Trop Artic. Truck has 139,000 miles on it now and does have some piston slap at startup when cold.
On my last new vehicle, a 2014 Mustang GT with the 5.0L, I went 4,400 miles on the original oil and that was at the one year mark of when the car was built. This engine uses no oil between oil changes. I was initially going by the OLM with one oil change interval as high as 7,200 miles but have now started doing them every 5,000 miles. I use 5W-20 Motorcraft synthetic blend and the correct Motorcraft filter. Car has 33,000 miles on it and no unusual noises from the engine.
In conclusion, I don't think changing out the oil early on my truck really benefitted it that I can tell and not changing it early on the Mustang has not hurt it that I can tell so I doubt I will be doing early oil changes if I ever buy a new car again.