Great video and thanks for sharing your technique! A few questions - what type of screws you recommend to go with the washers? Any specific length for the screws? Also, do you drill the screws into the lath or you stop right when you touch the lath but not really screw into the lath. Thanks!!
Great explanation and technique! One thing you didn't mention is that since the old plaster basecoat was basically lime mortar its very hard and you might need (or probably will need) a harder drill bit. You'll know when you hit the basecoat and the drill bit spins and starts to smoke🤣
Great video, thank you!! I'm restoring a 1935 home, all plaster walls and ceilings that are cracking and sagging. Where do you get those washers? I've looked for plaster washers, nobody at Lowes, or home depot caries plaster washers. So happy to come across this.
Thrilled to hear it! You were on the right track- but the washers we use (in addition to the ones that come with the Plaster Magic kit) are for securing foundation wrap. Almost all big box stores carry them (even if they don’t know they do 😉). Here’s a link to some: www.homedepot.ca/product/dmx-washers-dmx-washers-50-pack-/1000735671
First video showing seen that does not just show someone fillings cracks to come back again. Plaster has to be attached both sides of crack to stop crack coming back. Great job.
After prefilling the cracks with Durabond 90, did you tape with Durabond 90 or did you use a different type of compound to tape with? Thanks for this video! I bought Plaster Magic because of your recommendation and it’s working well.
Pros can tape with Durabond and unless you're a pro, I'd tape and do a final skim with an ez sand hot mix. Durabond is nearly unsandable. You could use a premix mud, but you have to wait for it to dry between coats.
Hi, Thank you for the helpful video. What is the all-purpose masonry primer did you use? And what's the Gorilla Glue that has the right consistency? The magic plaster is not available where I was so if you can suggest what you use here is awesome to me. Thanks.
For the primer, look for anything used to prep/prime/adhere self-leveller. Big box stores usually carry these wherever you find the cement/concrete etc. Here’s an example of one we can get here in Canada: www.homedepot.ca/product/custom-building-products-levelquik-latex-primer-946l/1000668628 As for the glue, we’ve found that gorilla glue (and most construction adhesives) are too thick to be applied effectively. You want something runny enough to be able to squeeze through the tiny plaster holes and wrap around the lath behind to form a good bond (think the same viscosity of a silicone/caulk etc.). Ideally you’ll want one that is suitable for masonry and wood applications. Try a few different ones and see what works best for you 👍
Hello, great video! I just bought a home from the 40s with plaster walls, and it seems as if the plaster is "bubbling" at the studs and ceiling joists. Will this method work if I cut the plaster at the stud or joist?
Hard to say without knowing more, but theoretically yes- the bubbling is the plaster breaking free from the lath, and this method will help resolve that issue 👍
My walls have bubbles but not actual cracks - they are huge sections of plaster that are not attached to the lath any more. Since I don’t have cracks to open up, but I still want to use this process, would you recommend cutting into the center of the bubbles and creating a crack to work around?
That’s a tough one. For a situation like yours, we’d probably recommend just removing the plaster section that’s bubbled (since getting it to lie flat will like just result in cracking anyways) and re-plastering those areas. Tough to say without seeing it though.
Plaster magic's markup is about 4x, they're too greedy. I hear others recommend loctite powergrab, maybe you found gorilla to be thinner than that? Maybe any old PVA or even Kilz 123 would do the job as a primer to keep the holes from breaking up and give the adhesive something to bond to ?
Sounds like they know they’ve got a good product 😂. We’ve used a few different primer products (look for anything that helps prep/adhere self-leveling concrete) that have worked great for that stage 👍
Yeah, I did a bunch of research into this too. I patched a large hole in my plaster after I did some plumbing, and ended up cutting new lath as well. Lath was a 2x4 that I ripped to 3/8" on my table saw. I used Durabond 90 as the "plaster" and all purpose joint compound to smooth it out (because Durabond is unsandable! It sets to a rock, which is very similar to plaster!) Anyway, as a "primer" I used 50/50 wood glue and water. But I've heard concrete bonder, or watered down concrete bonder is good. One person used 50/50 loctite powergrab as the primer. For the adhesive, similarly I've hear Loctite Powergrab as well, which is easily found, but nice to know that Gorilla brand works too (loctite might be cheaper?) And instead of the plaster washers, I've read that using fender washers (big fat metal washers with small holes) with drywall screws works so you don't need to buy the plaster ones ... or just go buy the plaster ones. I did the research after finding Plaster Magic, and I had at first planned to use it ... until I saw the prices! Durabond, wood glue (PVA) and loctite is a LOT cheaper.
I live in South Florida. My home was built in the early 70s. It has metal studs on 24 inch centers.. yup. its true. The walls were skim coated and painted. In some spots the skim coat didnt adhere well to the wall boar and large areas of skim coat have broken loose. Probably cause the wallboard flexed because studs were so far apart. Any suggestions on how to repair these areas...theyre usuall a couple feet square.
Wow.. Never heard of that! Doesn’t sound like a good system- but maybe they had a reason 😂. Hopefully the solution is as simple as making sure the wall board is secured to the studs and then re-skimming the areas that have broken loose- but it’s hard to say without seeing it. Perhaps there’s a specialist in your area who’s dealt with this type of situation before? Good luck 👍
Great question 👍. The tape reinforces the joint where the new compound/plaster meets the old. If there is any new movement in the wall, this is where cracks tend to show up first- so the theory is that by reinforcing this seam, you’re giving it the best chance not to crack in the future. Is it necessary? If the repair is done correctly, and the house is ‘done’ settling, probably not- but in our experience, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. It’s a simple step that could prevent future cracks from showing up in the repaired area 👍
Much appreciated! We started out with a kit from plaster magic, and replaced things as they ran out. Most of the washers we have now are actually for foundation wrap, and you can get them at any big box store. You can find the kit here: www.plastermagic.com
Thanks for this great video! Newbie question: Will a fill made for sheetrock (USG Easy Sand 90) work the same as Durabond? Providing links for the products you used would be awesome!
It will ‘work’ but not the same, in that its not as strong a substrate. We’ve had multiple people suggest the filling should be done with plaster rather than anything else if yours is a plaster and lath wall like this one (there are properties that plaster has that makes it more suitable to bond with the existing plaster long term). Short answer is: in a pinch, yes, it should work (if you did the other steps, the lath should now be secured) 👍
Get some PVA (Poly vinyl acetate) glue ... otherwise known as wood glue or the white Elmer's school glue (!!) (Or better yet, Weldbond) and mix it 50/50 with water. So take an empty disposable water bottle, pour in some amount of glue, then eyeball it and fill in about the same amount of clean cold water. Cap it and shake it up. Now you have conditioner! OR use concrete bonder and dilute it 50/50. The conditioner makes all the dust and crumbs of plaster stick together and stich to the lathe and plaster. This makes the adhesive bond to it... just like primer helps paint stick to walls. Brush or spray the 50/50 mixture into the walls. One thing they didn't do in this video is spray/brush primer into the cracks before filling with the Durabond 90. It's helpful to do that to again to control the dust on the lathe, and also to get moisture into the lathe so the moisture isn't wicked away from the Durabond (which is "Setting type joint compound" otherwise known as "Hot Mud" to drywallers. As the adhesive, you can use what the guys used in the video is Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. I used Loctite Powergrab All Purpose. Which is apparently similar to Lepage No More Nails All Purpose (Lepage and Loctite are I think the same company, or are part of the same company??)
Not exactly, no. The main purpose of the ‘primer’ (plaster magic refers to it as a ‘conditioner’) we mentioned is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture of the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/
@@TheJerryalberte we’ve used Quickrete Concrete Bonding adhesive , as well as primers designed for self-leveling concrete applications. Our assumption is that most concrete bonding primers will do the trick. Not every plaster repair method calls for this step mind you- most just want you to vacuum the area before applying your adhesive. It’s possible that this step is overkill- but we don’t mind a little overkill 😉
What's the best type of primer & paint to use after the repair? Thank you so much for this video! Just bought an old house with plaster walls & I'm so excited to get started at fixing the small hair line cracks.
That’s awesome! Happy to help 👍. Most people recommend an oil based primer for plaster walls (better at blocking moisture/stains), but if it’s already been painted before, any high quality latex primer (suitable for joint compound) will work fine 👍
My house is a 1949 and behind the plaster I have what seems to be 1/8 inch drywall with regular stud framing. Can I use the same bond to fill my cracks? I have some pretty narly ones
Hey! It sounds like you’ve got what’s known as a ‘plaster veneer’ in your home. Thin sheets of gypsum board secured to the framing and then plastered over (sort of an early version of modern drywall). Unfortunately, most of this technique will not apply to your situation- but you should have good results simply digging out the cracked sections, taping and plastering the voids (if the gypsum behind the cracks is in good condition). If the cracks go all the way through, we’d recommend cutting out that section and patching with new drywall sheets. Hope that helps!
You might find it difficult- as even the gorilla glue is a tad on the viscous side. Ultimately, it should work- it just means more work for your forearms 😎.
I have some walls open. I can see the opposite wall where the keys have fallen off. The plaster intact but can I use the gorilla glue and spread on the back for precautionary measures
Great question 👍. The purpose of a masonry primer (also referred to as conditioner) is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture from the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/.
The washers we use (in addition to the ones that come with the Plaster Magic kit) are for securing foundation wrap. Almost all big box stores carry them (even if they don’t know they do 😉). Here’s a link to some: www.homedepot.ca/product/dmx-washers-dmx-washers-50-pack-/1000735671
Can you break down the process from the taping and mudding? 1st you used the durabond 90 in the cracks, 2nd you taped over top, and 3rd you applied the CGC drywall compound. Is that correct?
You nailed it 👍. Once the plaster has been re-adhered to the lath, we essentially treat the area the same way we would a drywall joint: pre-fill large gaps with a catalyzed mud, tape and top coat. We’ve been advised that using plaster instead of durabond/drywall compound might be even better- but we haven’t had any issues with the method shown here 👌
@@b.van93 no problem! We tend to use Fibafuse because it’s thinner than most other tapes. Their standard tape is slightly over 2” wide, but you can get it in various widths (depending on how wide the gap your taping is). We get ours here: csrbuilding.com/products/fibafuse™-2-1-16-creaseless-paperless-drywall-tape?_pos=3&_sid=e1beb63e0&_ss=r
Will this work on ceilings? How would one tell for sure if the plaster keying to the lathe has broken, or rather the lathe nailing to the the joists has started to fail?
If the plaster looks like it’s cracking, buckled, or is pulling away from the wall (or in your case, the ceiling) in relatively small sections, chances are it’s just the plaster breaking away from the lath. You’re right that it could also be the lath itself pulling away from the studs/joists- but that’s much less common, and an indication of a much larger problem (it probably wouldn’t be isolated to one area either). This technique will work on ceilings, but it will definitely be messy, unpleasant and a little more difficult (as ceiling work tends to be). To be honest, when it comes to ceilings we tend to lean towards the option of pulling it all down and replacing it with drywall (if the damage is significant). If you decide to repair it, just promise us you’ve got good eye protection 😎👍
Great video. Do you think I would need a Plaster Magic kit, or their Patching Plaster if I'm filling a crack between old lath/plaster and new drywall? My 1925 plaster isn't bowing out and is completely sealed to the laths. Crumbles like cement. Or would I just use a normal setting compound with a joint compound between the new drywall and the old plaster? Thanks!
Great question! Our best advice would probably be to treat it as a normal drywall joint. If the plaster is still keyed in to the lath where it meets the new drywall, you should be ok to treat it as a regular butt joint (since you’d most likely be mudding over painted plaster, patching plaster wouldn’t be necessary) 👍
think of it more like this: plaster magic primer (or any masonry/concrete primer)= seals the porous surfaces/helps the glue bond to the two different substrates. The Glue (we used gorilla glue, but any construction adhesive that bonds to wood and stone will work)= adheres the plaster back to the lath (glues the plaster back to the wood). We like plaster magic because the kit has everything you need for the job- but you certainly can get all the components separately.
What kind of all purpose masonry primer did you use?? And you only put it in the screw holes? You don't put it on the crack too? For the plaster to stick to?
IMHO, they should have put it in the cracks too. But clearly they got amazing results without doing that. The primer in the crack will help the plaster stick as it wets down and adheres dust and stuff down to the lath and plaster and helps the Durabond stick. It also helps if you mix diluted wood glue into the durabond.
what brand is the primer and where did you purchase it? (is it totally necessary? I keep searching for a "primer" but no luck so can you give the info please)
We used Plaster Magic’s primer in this, but you can certainly find it at any big box store as well (made by a number of different brands). It’s the same product that is used before bonding new concrete to old concrete in applications like self-levelling or underlayments. Try searching concrete adhesive (we know Sakrete calls theirs Concrete Adhesive). I think LevelQuik calls theirs ‘Acrylic Primer’. That should help 👍
We started out with a kit from plaster magic, and replaced things as they ran out. Most of the washers we have now are actually for foundation wrap, and you can get them at any big box store. You can find the kit here: www.plastermagic.com
if there are cracks but with no sagging (blaster is still in good contact with bricks), do I need to do the whole process? I believe just applying the compunound with mesh tape is more than enough. What is your view on this?
Clean the crack, apply a conditioner to the brick and edges of the plaster in the crack (use 50/50 woodglue and water, or get a concrete bonder from the store). Just brush it on, then when it's almost dry, fill the crack. I filled a large hole with Durabond 90 (same as they use in the video). You can't sand Durabond! So you'll want to topcoat with an all purpose joint compound. If you embed tape to Durabond, use mesh tape.
Good question! Not much- the red ones came with the Plaster Magic set, and when we needed more, we added generic ‘membrane’ washers/fasteners (the blue ones) 👍
The ‘primer’ were referring to is actually technically a ‘conditioner’ that is part of the Plaster Magic kit we use. It’s main purpose is to consolidate the dust and debris in the holes, and to help the adhesive bond to both the plaster and the wood. Hope that helps!
Absolutely 👍. The original kit (and procedure as well) comes from a company called Plaster Magic ( plastermagic.com). The kit includes the adhesive, conditioner, 25 washers and screws and a syringe. When you run out of washers (or need more) we use washers designed for housing wrap (available at any big box store). We used durabond 90 in the video, but recommend using plaster of paris for patching plaster if you can. The tape we used is FibaFuse 👍
The first product is a conditioner and it’s purpose is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture of the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/
If I were to skip the washers, what would be your suggestion to repair big cracks and bubbles for plaster? We have an old 1900 house and trying to do basic cosmetic repairs that will last just a couple of years before we move. I have DAP spackling and the fabric tape and patches!
Hmm, that’s a tricky one. Technically you can’t really ‘skip’ a step and still have it be as effective- but if what you’re saying is that you’re not as concerned that it lasts forever, then I suppose the best bet would still be to open the cracks and remove any loose plaster that’s bubbling (essentially any plaster that’s no longer keyed into the lath anymore). Once you’ve done that, you can patch and tape the holes and cracks. That should buy you a couple years of smoother walls 👍
what exactly are the products used? I Google all purpose masonry primer and got a lot of different kind of products.... is it a paint or something else?... and the gorilla glue?.. i picked one up and it's super thick. I think I got the wrong kind.
Most of the products we use come from a kit called plaster magic (link here: plastermagic.com/product/starter-kit/ ). They refer to the masonry primer as a conditioner (basically works with their adhesive to help with the bonding) but we've had success with a couple of different concrete primers (you can find them in the big box stores near the cement). You're right about the gorilla glue being on the thick side- its not our favourite either. The glue in the plaster magic kit has a much nicer consistency. You can play around with some other adhesives (as long as they are designed to adhere dissimilar materials, ie. plaster and wood, it should be fine) and see what works for you. Our best advice would be to get a kit from Plaster magic, as they sell a comprehensive system that has everything you need 👍
Look up "Plaster Washers" they cost like $5 for 25, or you can find large fender washers and use drywall screws. You can get the washers in a lot of places, including online.
Just shoot liquid nails in for glue and sheet rock screws with button caps from roofing nails. What I use. a third of the price and never had an issue. Run across a good bit of cracking it's just faster, cheaper and more durable in the long run to just go over the plaster with 1/4 sheetrock. Most homeowners love that option especially the wives 😅. The husband punches the wall and breaks his hand!
Hmm, we’re not familiar with horsehair paper 🤔- but there was no horsehair in this plaster. We can’t say for certain, but we would imagine this technique would still work.
The process won’t be the same, but the concept can still be applied. Open up any hairline cracks, remove any loose plaster/debris and ensure that the mesh is secured to the studs (add more fasteners if needed). Then fill in the gaps with new plaster (which should key back into the mesh).
This is totally frustrating... Yes most of us who have horsehair walls know of Plaster Magic which does work well but is hugely overpriced. Watching this gives us hope that we have found the alternative to that product for a reasonable/affordable price yet you will not come right out and tell us the EXACT name of the two products you used including which gorilla glue. Why is that? Was there some sort of adverse outcome from using either of the two products you used in the end? You keep sighting the Plaster Magic, but that was not even utilized in this clip. Thank you :)
Thanks for the reply. Have a browse through the comment section of this video. We’ve recommended lots of alternative products for each step of the process. You certainly don’t HAVE to use any of them (including plaster magic), but thats what we are most confident in recommending since its what we usually use.
myyak: Yup yup yep, no indication of whether or not the adhesive is truly compatible with lime (a corrosive agent in the original plaster) & never any hint at how long the product(s) & repairs have held up in the field over time, which is all that we viewers care about, isn't it? You tube - often pure rubbish!
Finally the video I've been looking for to try on my 190-year-old home's plaster walls! 🥰❣️💯
😎👍
did it work?
I truly admire skilled craftsmen. I just love them.
😎
This is so freaking awesome. I love UA-cam so much. Thank you for this video!
You are very welcome 👍
Great video and thanks for sharing your technique! A few questions - what type of screws you recommend to go with the washers? Any specific length for the screws? Also, do you drill the screws into the lath or you stop right when you touch the lath but not really screw into the lath. Thanks!!
Best video and explanation ever! Please advise where to purchase those plastic washers to secure the plaster. Thank you.
Great explanation and technique! One thing you didn't mention is that since the old plaster basecoat was basically lime mortar its very hard and you might need (or probably will need) a harder drill bit. You'll know when you hit the basecoat and the drill bit spins and starts to smoke🤣
Great point!
Great video, thank you!! I'm restoring a 1935 home, all plaster walls and ceilings that are cracking and sagging. Where do you get those washers? I've looked for plaster washers, nobody at Lowes, or home depot caries plaster washers. So happy to come across this.
Thrilled to hear it! You were on the right track- but the washers we use (in addition to the ones that come with the Plaster Magic kit) are for securing foundation wrap. Almost all big box stores carry them (even if they don’t know they do 😉). Here’s a link to some: www.homedepot.ca/product/dmx-washers-dmx-washers-50-pack-/1000735671
Super helpful, I couldn’t find these… until you pointed me in the right direction.
First video showing seen that does not just show someone fillings cracks to come back again. Plaster has to be attached both sides of crack to stop crack coming back. Great job.
Great Video…keen to try this but in our house behind the mortar is brick not wood …would this work …could you still screw the washers in?
We would likely suggest asking a pro in your area the best plan of action👍
After prefilling the cracks with Durabond 90, did you tape with Durabond 90 or did you use a different type of compound to tape with? Thanks for this video! I bought Plaster Magic because of your recommendation and it’s working well.
Pros can tape with Durabond and unless you're a pro, I'd tape and do a final skim with an ez sand hot mix. Durabond is nearly unsandable. You could use a premix mud, but you have to wait for it to dry between coats.
Hi, Thank you for the helpful video.
What is the all-purpose masonry primer did you use? And what's the Gorilla Glue that has the right consistency?
The magic plaster is not available where I was so if you can suggest what you use here is awesome to me. Thanks.
For the primer, look for anything used to prep/prime/adhere self-leveller. Big box stores usually carry these wherever you find the cement/concrete etc. Here’s an example of one we can get here in Canada: www.homedepot.ca/product/custom-building-products-levelquik-latex-primer-946l/1000668628
As for the glue, we’ve found that gorilla glue (and most construction adhesives) are too thick to be applied effectively. You want something runny enough to be able to squeeze through the tiny plaster holes and wrap around the lath behind to form a good bond (think the same viscosity of a silicone/caulk etc.). Ideally you’ll want one that is suitable for masonry and wood applications. Try a few different ones and see what works best for you 👍
Great explanation and my questions you answered in the follow ups. Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching! Happy to help 👍
Hello, great video! I just bought a home from the 40s with plaster walls, and it seems as if the plaster is "bubbling" at the studs and ceiling joists. Will this method work if I cut the plaster at the stud or joist?
Hard to say without knowing more, but theoretically yes- the bubbling is the plaster breaking free from the lath, and this method will help resolve that issue 👍
My walls have bubbles but not actual cracks - they are huge sections of plaster that are not attached to the lath any more. Since I don’t have cracks to open up, but I still want to use this process, would you recommend cutting into the center of the bubbles and creating a crack to work around?
That’s a tough one. For a situation like yours, we’d probably recommend just removing the plaster section that’s bubbled (since getting it to lie flat will like just result in cracking anyways) and re-plastering those areas. Tough to say without seeing it though.
I've got the same issue. Buldges in the wall, but no cracks.
Nice work. Definitely can guarantee that.
Great job. You seem to use many different coats of filler, give a great finish.
Also you sound Irish!
Interesting! Haven’t heard that one before 👍🇮🇪
Plaster magic's markup is about 4x, they're too greedy. I hear others recommend loctite powergrab, maybe you found gorilla to be thinner than that? Maybe any old PVA or even Kilz 123 would do the job as a primer to keep the holes from breaking up and give the adhesive something to bond to ?
Sounds like they know they’ve got a good product 😂. We’ve used a few different primer products (look for anything that helps prep/adhere self-leveling concrete) that have worked great for that stage 👍
Yeah, I did a bunch of research into this too. I patched a large hole in my plaster after I did some plumbing, and ended up cutting new lath as well. Lath was a 2x4 that I ripped to 3/8" on my table saw. I used Durabond 90 as the "plaster" and all purpose joint compound to smooth it out (because Durabond is unsandable! It sets to a rock, which is very similar to plaster!)
Anyway, as a "primer" I used 50/50 wood glue and water. But I've heard concrete bonder, or watered down concrete bonder is good. One person used 50/50 loctite powergrab as the primer.
For the adhesive, similarly I've hear Loctite Powergrab as well, which is easily found, but nice to know that Gorilla brand works too (loctite might be cheaper?)
And instead of the plaster washers, I've read that using fender washers (big fat metal washers with small holes) with drywall screws works so you don't need to buy the plaster ones ... or just go buy the plaster ones.
I did the research after finding Plaster Magic, and I had at first planned to use it ... until I saw the prices! Durabond, wood glue (PVA) and loctite is a LOT cheaper.
@@Vincerama thanks for putting all that detail into a comment. It's nice to know what others have tried.
I live in South Florida. My home was built in the early 70s. It has metal studs on 24 inch centers.. yup. its true. The walls were skim coated and painted. In some spots the skim coat didnt adhere well to the wall boar and large areas of skim coat have broken loose. Probably cause the wallboard flexed because studs were so far apart. Any suggestions on how to repair these areas...theyre usuall a couple feet square.
Wow.. Never heard of that! Doesn’t sound like a good system- but maybe they had a reason 😂. Hopefully the solution is as simple as making sure the wall board is secured to the studs and then re-skimming the areas that have broken loose- but it’s hard to say without seeing it. Perhaps there’s a specialist in your area who’s dealt with this type of situation before? Good luck 👍
Super helpful video, thank you for doing this! Newbie question- what's the purpose of the tape?
Great question 👍. The tape reinforces the joint where the new compound/plaster meets the old. If there is any new movement in the wall, this is where cracks tend to show up first- so the theory is that by reinforcing this seam, you’re giving it the best chance not to crack in the future. Is it necessary? If the repair is done correctly, and the house is ‘done’ settling, probably not- but in our experience, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. It’s a simple step that could prevent future cracks from showing up in the repaired area 👍
This is awesome!!! Where can I find the system you used (the washers)? You guys rock! Thanks!!!
Much appreciated! We started out with a kit from plaster magic, and replaced things as they ran out. Most of the washers we have now are actually for foundation wrap, and you can get them at any big box store. You can find the kit here: www.plastermagic.com
What’s the name of the tape you were using also what was the length of screws to hold the washers. Thanks
Thanks for this great video! Newbie question: Will a fill made for sheetrock (USG Easy Sand 90) work the same as Durabond? Providing links for the products you used would be awesome!
It will ‘work’ but not the same, in that its not as strong a substrate. We’ve had multiple people suggest the filling should be done with plaster rather than anything else if yours is a plaster and lath wall like this one (there are properties that plaster has that makes it more suitable to bond with the existing plaster long term). Short answer is: in a pinch, yes, it should work (if you did the other steps, the lath should now be secured) 👍
Do you know of anything else l could use as a conditioner the plaster magic is a bit pricey for me
Get some PVA (Poly vinyl acetate) glue ... otherwise known as wood glue or the white Elmer's school glue (!!) (Or better yet, Weldbond) and mix it 50/50 with water. So take an empty disposable water bottle, pour in some amount of glue, then eyeball it and fill in about the same amount of clean cold water. Cap it and shake it up. Now you have conditioner! OR use concrete bonder and dilute it 50/50. The conditioner makes all the dust and crumbs of plaster stick together and stich to the lathe and plaster. This makes the adhesive bond to it... just like primer helps paint stick to walls.
Brush or spray the 50/50 mixture into the walls. One thing they didn't do in this video is spray/brush primer into the cracks before filling with the Durabond 90. It's helpful to do that to again to control the dust on the lathe, and also to get moisture into the lathe so the moisture isn't wicked away from the Durabond (which is "Setting type joint compound" otherwise known as "Hot Mud" to drywallers.
As the adhesive, you can use what the guys used in the video is Gorilla Glue Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. I used Loctite Powergrab All Purpose. Which is apparently similar to Lepage No More Nails All Purpose (Lepage and Loctite are I think the same company, or are part of the same company??)
Is a latex bonding agent the same as masonry primer. Jerry
Not exactly, no. The main purpose of the ‘primer’ (plaster magic refers to it as a ‘conditioner’) we mentioned is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture of the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/
Hi again. Is there another product I can use as a subsitue
@@TheJerryalberte we’ve used Quickrete Concrete Bonding adhesive , as well as primers designed for self-leveling concrete applications. Our assumption is that most concrete bonding primers will do the trick. Not every plaster repair method calls for this step mind you- most just want you to vacuum the area before applying your adhesive. It’s possible that this step is overkill- but we don’t mind a little overkill 😉
What's the best type of primer & paint to use after the repair? Thank you so much for this video! Just bought an old house with plaster walls & I'm so excited to get started at fixing the small hair line cracks.
That’s awesome! Happy to help 👍. Most people recommend an oil based primer for plaster walls (better at blocking moisture/stains), but if it’s already been painted before, any high quality latex primer (suitable for joint compound) will work fine 👍
My house is a 1949 and behind the plaster I have what seems to be 1/8 inch drywall with regular stud framing. Can I use the same bond to fill my cracks? I have some pretty narly ones
Hey! It sounds like you’ve got what’s known as a ‘plaster veneer’ in your home. Thin sheets of gypsum board secured to the framing and then plastered over (sort of an early version of modern drywall). Unfortunately, most of this technique will not apply to your situation- but you should have good results simply digging out the cracked sections, taping and plastering the voids (if the gypsum behind the cracks is in good condition). If the cracks go all the way through, we’d recommend cutting out that section and patching with new drywall sheets. Hope that helps!
I grabbed liquid nails not really thinking about the viscosity. Think it's going to be runny enough to have the same bond as the gorilla glue?
You might find it difficult- as even the gorilla glue is a tad on the viscous side. Ultimately, it should work- it just means more work for your forearms 😎.
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Which Gorilla glue in the tube did you use in this video?
I have some walls open. I can see the opposite wall where the keys have fallen off. The plaster intact but can I use the gorilla glue and spread on the back for precautionary measures
Sure! If you're up for it, it certainly wont hurt.
what is that Masonry Primer on 1:53? Is like paint masonry primer?
Great question 👍. The purpose of a masonry primer (also referred to as conditioner) is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture from the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/.
want are the washers called and where do you get them
The washers we use (in addition to the ones that come with the Plaster Magic kit) are for securing foundation wrap. Almost all big box stores carry them (even if they don’t know they do 😉). Here’s a link to some: www.homedepot.ca/product/dmx-washers-dmx-washers-50-pack-/1000735671
Hi great job. What is an estimate cost to home owner to repair this wall? Jerry
Can you break down the process from the taping and mudding? 1st you used the durabond 90 in the cracks, 2nd you taped over top, and 3rd you applied the CGC drywall compound. Is that correct?
You nailed it 👍. Once the plaster has been re-adhered to the lath, we essentially treat the area the same way we would a drywall joint: pre-fill large gaps with a catalyzed mud, tape and top coat. We’ve been advised that using plaster instead of durabond/drywall compound might be even better- but we haven’t had any issues with the method shown here 👌
@@RefreshHomeImprovements I really appreciate the response. Can you also specify the type of tape you are using and the width of the tape?
@@b.van93 no problem! We tend to use Fibafuse because it’s thinner than most other tapes. Their standard tape is slightly over 2” wide, but you can get it in various widths (depending on how wide the gap your taping is). We get ours here: csrbuilding.com/products/fibafuse™-2-1-16-creaseless-paperless-drywall-tape?_pos=3&_sid=e1beb63e0&_ss=r
Will this work on ceilings?
How would one tell for sure if the plaster keying to the lathe has broken, or rather the lathe nailing to the the joists has started to fail?
If the plaster looks like it’s cracking, buckled, or is pulling away from the wall (or in your case, the ceiling) in relatively small sections, chances are it’s just the plaster breaking away from the lath. You’re right that it could also be the lath itself pulling away from the studs/joists- but that’s much less common, and an indication of a much larger problem (it probably wouldn’t be isolated to one area either). This technique will work on ceilings, but it will definitely be messy, unpleasant and a little more difficult (as ceiling work tends to be). To be honest, when it comes to ceilings we tend to lean towards the option of pulling it all down and replacing it with drywall (if the damage is significant). If you decide to repair it, just promise us you’ve got good eye protection 😎👍
Great video. Do you think I would need a Plaster Magic kit, or their Patching Plaster if I'm filling a crack between old lath/plaster and new drywall? My 1925 plaster isn't bowing out and is completely sealed to the laths. Crumbles like cement. Or would I just use a normal setting compound with a joint compound between the new drywall and the old plaster? Thanks!
Great question! Our best advice would probably be to treat it as a normal drywall joint. If the plaster is still keyed in to the lath where it meets the new drywall, you should be ok to treat it as a regular butt joint (since you’d most likely be mudding over painted plaster, patching plaster wouldn’t be necessary) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Thank you! I really appreciate you taking the time to give me a response! :)
Doesnt the mesh layer raise the finished surface of the plaster?!
Do you need to let the conditioner dry before putting in the construction adhesive?
This particular product recommends you wait 10 minutes to allow the conditioner to “soak in”👍
Could I use Kilz all surfaces as the primer?
So Plastic Magic=Bonding agent? Gorilla glue =patching plaster? EXCELLENT video. I'm getting ready to do 3 rooms in an 1920.
think of it more like this: plaster magic primer (or any masonry/concrete primer)= seals the porous surfaces/helps the glue bond to the two different substrates. The Glue (we used gorilla glue, but any construction adhesive that bonds to wood and stone will work)= adheres the plaster back to the lath (glues the plaster back to the wood). We like plaster magic because the kit has everything you need for the job- but you certainly can get all the components separately.
What kind of all purpose masonry primer did you use?? And you only put it in the screw holes? You don't put it on the crack too? For the plaster to stick to?
IMHO, they should have put it in the cracks too. But clearly they got amazing results without doing that. The primer in the crack will help the plaster stick as it wets down and adheres dust and stuff down to the lath and plaster and helps the Durabond stick. It also helps if you mix diluted wood glue into the durabond.
Great job guys. Name of the song in the background please?
So fill the hole let it set up then put the tape on?
what brand is the primer and where did you purchase it? (is it totally necessary? I keep searching for a "primer" but no luck so can you give the info please)
We used Plaster Magic’s primer in this, but you can certainly find it at any big box store as well (made by a number of different brands). It’s the same product that is used before bonding new concrete to old concrete in applications like self-levelling or underlayments. Try searching concrete adhesive (we know Sakrete calls theirs Concrete Adhesive). I think LevelQuik calls theirs ‘Acrylic Primer’. That should help 👍
Do you have a list of the materials you were using?
We started out with a kit from plaster magic, and replaced things as they ran out. Most of the washers we have now are actually for foundation wrap, and you can get them at any big box store. You can find the kit here: www.plastermagic.com
if there are cracks but with no sagging (blaster is still in good contact with bricks), do I need to do the whole process? I believe just applying the compunound with mesh tape is more than enough. What is your view on this?
Clean the crack, apply a conditioner to the brick and edges of the plaster in the crack (use 50/50 woodglue and water, or get a concrete bonder from the store). Just brush it on, then when it's almost dry, fill the crack. I filled a large hole with Durabond 90 (same as they use in the video). You can't sand Durabond! So you'll want to topcoat with an all purpose joint compound. If you embed tape to Durabond, use mesh tape.
What's the difference between the blue and red fasteners?
Good question! Not much- the red ones came with the Plaster Magic set, and when we needed more, we added generic ‘membrane’ washers/fasteners (the blue ones) 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Ahhh, I see. Thanks for the reply and for all of the great videos you guys do!
@@aaronhgaines happy to help!
What is the primer that you use?
The ‘primer’ were referring to is actually technically a ‘conditioner’ that is part of the Plaster Magic kit we use. It’s main purpose is to consolidate the dust and debris in the holes, and to help the adhesive bond to both the plaster and the wood. Hope that helps!
Can you list your supplies used? Thanks!
Absolutely 👍. The original kit (and procedure as well) comes from a company called Plaster Magic ( plastermagic.com). The kit includes the adhesive, conditioner, 25 washers and screws and a syringe. When you run out of washers (or need more) we use washers designed for housing wrap (available at any big box store). We used durabond 90 in the video, but recommend using plaster of paris for patching plaster if you can. The tape we used is FibaFuse 👍
What was the first product you used with the syringe?
The first product is a conditioner and it’s purpose is twofold: it helps to rid the area of loose dust/debris and it also “seals” the surrounding plaster so that it doesn’t pull/absorb all the moisture of the adhesive. The bonding agent would be the next step, and is what adheres the plaster back to the lathe. Check out their page for (a little) more info: plastermagic.com/product/conditioner-16-oz-with-sprayer/
If I were to skip the washers, what would be your suggestion to repair big cracks and bubbles for plaster? We have an old 1900 house and trying to do basic cosmetic repairs that will last just a couple of years before we move. I have DAP spackling and the fabric tape and patches!
Hmm, that’s a tricky one. Technically you can’t really ‘skip’ a step and still have it be as effective- but if what you’re saying is that you’re not as concerned that it lasts forever, then I suppose the best bet would still be to open the cracks and remove any loose plaster that’s bubbling (essentially any plaster that’s no longer keyed into the lath anymore). Once you’ve done that, you can patch and tape the holes and cracks. That should buy you a couple years of smoother walls 👍
@@RefreshHomeImprovements Just pushing the problem to the next homeowner! Just do it right!
what exactly are the products used? I Google all purpose masonry primer and got a lot of different kind of products.... is it a paint or something else?... and the gorilla glue?.. i picked one up and it's super thick. I think I got the wrong kind.
Most of the products we use come from a kit called plaster magic (link here: plastermagic.com/product/starter-kit/ ). They refer to the masonry primer as a conditioner (basically works with their adhesive to help with the bonding) but we've had success with a couple of different concrete primers (you can find them in the big box stores near the cement). You're right about the gorilla glue being on the thick side- its not our favourite either. The glue in the plaster magic kit has a much nicer consistency. You can play around with some other adhesives (as long as they are designed to adhere dissimilar materials, ie. plaster and wood, it should be fine) and see what works for you. Our best advice would be to get a kit from Plaster magic, as they sell a comprehensive system that has everything you need 👍
Where do you buy the anchors
Look up "Plaster Washers" they cost like $5 for 25, or you can find large fender washers and use drywall screws. You can get the washers in a lot of places, including online.
Thank you
Was the gorilla glue you were using?
Good eye 😉
Just shoot liquid nails in for glue and sheet rock screws with button caps from roofing nails. What I use. a third of the price and never had an issue. Run across a good bit of cracking it's just faster, cheaper and more durable in the long run to just go over the plaster with 1/4 sheetrock. Most homeowners love that option especially the wives 😅. The husband punches the wall and breaks his hand!
Wowza
What do you put in those holes you make ?
Concrete bonder, or 50/50 water and wood glue (PVA glue) mixture.
Are these plaster walls covered in horsehair paper? Will this method work on plaster walls that are covered with horsehair paper?
Hmm, we’re not familiar with horsehair paper 🤔- but there was no horsehair in this plaster. We can’t say for certain, but we would imagine this technique would still work.
Suggestions on how to repair cracks in plaster on metal mesh? This process won't work because screws won't secure to anything.
The process won’t be the same, but the concept can still be applied. Open up any hairline cracks, remove any loose plaster/debris and ensure that the mesh is secured to the studs (add more fasteners if needed). Then fill in the gaps with new plaster (which should key back into the mesh).
So I've watched this video so many times I hear this song in my head 🎵
haha its pretty catchy, right?
Why not add permenant fasteners to the plaster?
The glue is acting as a permanent fastener once its cured 👍
Poetry in motion
Thanks!
This is totally frustrating... Yes most of us who have horsehair walls know of Plaster Magic which does work well but is hugely overpriced. Watching this gives us hope that we have found the alternative to that product for a reasonable/affordable price yet you will not come right out and tell us the EXACT name of the two products you used including which gorilla glue. Why is that? Was there some sort of adverse outcome from using either of the two products you used in the end? You keep sighting the Plaster Magic, but that was not even utilized in this clip. Thank you :)
Thanks for the reply. Have a browse through the comment section of this video. We’ve recommended lots of alternative products for each step of the process. You certainly don’t HAVE to use any of them (including plaster magic), but thats what we are most confident in recommending since its what we usually use.
myyak: Yup yup yep, no indication of whether or not the adhesive is truly compatible with lime (a corrosive agent in the original plaster) & never any hint at how long the product(s) & repairs have held up in the field over time, which is all that we viewers care about, isn't it? You tube - often pure rubbish!
That looks Exhausting I’ll Grab Two Guys Down The Street Let Them Do it