Many thanks, this was more of a problem with the earlier mk2 focus when they used lead free solder which tends to crack with different temperatures the later version face lifted from 08 mk2.5 it didn't seem as common but I've known it to happen 😊
I've heard that comment before and although I cannot prove or disprove that theory, I spend much of my life as an electronic engineer and we used to lab tests which included environment effects where extreme shifts took place between low and normal temperatue ranges and also extreme shifts between the two for example -30 to + 50 but not rapid changes as they dont usually occur naturally it takes time for the vehicle to warm up from freezing conditions. It was rare to get joint failures on good quality lead free solder unless you mix the two in the same joint as the expansion contraction varies between the two materials. In terms of the Focus MK2 03-10 at least in my model, the culprit is more likely to be the cable that thing is not supported properly it just hangs in space, although the connector has a retainer on it, the jolts which come from speed bumps etc, or just steeering corners, are probably enough over time to cause the cracks. The evidence on this is kinda supported by the fact that the cracks only appeared on the connector ends, not in the middle. Thats my theory anyway - Hope you liked the video, and if you are not s subscriber, please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get😉
If you are referring to the drops I put into unstick the board, it Was Isopropyl Alcohol. Please do like and subscribe as this is a small channel trying to grow and cant do that without subscribers. 😀👍
@@TELsBENCH thank you very much, I’m currently experiencing the same problem, I have to give it a whack on the dashboard for the error message to disappear, the performance and driving of the car has not changed in any way except for the sporadic messages on the dashboard, your video might just save my life, I’ll give it a go this coming weekend! Thank you
Great, I wish you good luck and hope you solve the issue, when you have removed the two torque screws under the cluster of instruments, then get your fingers above the black cluster shroud and pull it down a bit and it should just come out ok. The cable connector has a latch on it , so just flip that over to release it.
For the two screws at the base of the cluster in the care, you will need a TORQUE T25 Bit. This can be found in any motor tool outlet or online. For me I used a inexpensive multi tool set which I use for general repairs which has an extension from the ratchet of about 6 inches and also an additional flexible extension which can bend and then the T25 on top of that to easily reach through the Steering Wheel or the the side of it and into the two screws. For taking the Cluster apart, just flat blade screwdrivers really, its a bit fiddly really for some parts, you will need a soldering iron with a reasonably fine tip and some solder and some alcohol to clean the board after soldering if that is what is wrong with your cluster. Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you.
I will get it done later this week :) thank you I will update you with more, is it possible car does not start because of this? I mean i charged the battery full and everything is on but engine wont rev I after first try battery is drained to 10 % could be the starter also?@@TELsBENCH
I cannot answer that question on your repair as I dont provide advice in general only on my video. What I do know its that failures caused by this particular issue illustrated in the video can cause actual physical effects on the way the engine runs, in my case it reduced the ability to accelerate normally and also the speedo dropped out completely at one point momentarily. When my partner was driving it I was told that on one occasion she was unable to start it. As for draining the battery, I dont know but if the starter motor was jammed with power applied, that may drain the battery. Or perhaps the battery is failing as well. I wish you the very best of luck in your repair.
Many thanks, this was more of a problem with the earlier mk2 focus when they used lead free solder which tends to crack with different temperatures the later version face lifted from 08 mk2.5 it didn't seem as common but I've known it to happen 😊
I've heard that comment before and although I cannot prove or disprove that theory, I spend much of my life as an electronic engineer and we used to lab tests which included environment effects where extreme shifts took place between low and normal temperatue ranges and also extreme shifts between the two for example -30 to + 50 but not rapid changes as they dont usually occur naturally it takes time for the vehicle to warm up from freezing conditions.
It was rare to get joint failures on good quality lead free solder unless you mix the two in the same joint as the expansion contraction varies between the two materials.
In terms of the Focus MK2 03-10 at least in my model, the culprit is more likely to be the cable that thing is not supported properly it just hangs in space, although the connector has a retainer on it, the jolts which come from speed bumps etc, or just steeering corners, are probably enough over time to cause the cracks. The evidence on this is kinda supported by the fact that the cracks only appeared on the connector ends, not in the middle.
Thats my theory anyway - Hope you liked the video, and if you are not s subscriber, please feel free to subscribe as I need all the support I can get😉
Cheers for the info.
Glad you found it useful, feel free to subscribe if you are not already, as every subscriber, Like etc helps.
Brilliant video I will be doing this on the weekend 👍
Hey @xoxRAVERxox1, thanks for the compliment on the vid. It's a really annoying problem isn't it. Good luck on the weekend. - Cheers TEL 👍
Many thanks, very usefull.
Thanks D. I appreciate the comment, dont forget to like and subscribe as it all helps the cause :)
Cheers
Fantastic
Thank you so much 😀
Good day, what liquid were you using ?
If you are referring to the drops I put into unstick the board, it Was Isopropyl Alcohol.
Please do like and subscribe as this is a small channel trying to grow and cant do that without subscribers.
😀👍
@@TELsBENCH thank you very much, I’m currently experiencing the same problem, I have to give it a whack on the dashboard for the error message to disappear, the performance and driving of the car has not changed in any way except for the sporadic messages on the dashboard, your video might just save my life, I’ll give it a go this coming weekend! Thank you
Great, I wish you good luck and hope you solve the issue, when you have removed the two torque screws under the cluster of instruments, then get your fingers above the black cluster shroud and pull it down a bit and it should just come out ok.
The cable connector has a latch on it , so just flip that over to release it.
Which tools do you recommend
For the two screws at the base of the cluster in the care, you will need a TORQUE T25 Bit. This can be found in any motor tool outlet or online. For me I used a inexpensive multi tool set which I use for general repairs which has an extension from the ratchet of about 6 inches and also an additional flexible extension which can bend and then the T25 on top of that to easily reach through the Steering Wheel or the the side of it and into the two screws.
For taking the Cluster apart, just flat blade screwdrivers really, its a bit fiddly really for some parts, you will need a soldering iron with a reasonably fine tip and some solder and some alcohol to clean the board after soldering if that is what is wrong with your cluster.
Thanks for watching, I hope this helps you.
I will get it done later this week :) thank you I will update you with more, is it possible car does not start because of this? I mean i charged the battery full and everything is on but engine wont rev I after first try battery is drained to 10 % could be the starter also?@@TELsBENCH
I cannot answer that question on your repair as I dont provide advice in general only on my video.
What I do know its that failures caused by this particular issue illustrated in the video can cause actual physical effects on the way the engine runs, in my case it reduced the ability to accelerate normally and also the speedo dropped out completely at one point momentarily. When my partner was driving it I was told that on one occasion she was unable to start it.
As for draining the battery, I dont know but if the starter motor was jammed with power applied, that may drain the battery. Or perhaps the battery is failing as well.
I wish you the very best of luck in your repair.