Looks great. I wish the eg4 24v batteries Were available when I built my system. I have 2x 12V SOK 206AH batteries in series And periodically I have to deal with them getting a little bit out of balance. They are great batteries but an all-in-one 24 V battery would definitely be more ideal where all of the cells are managed by a single BMS. These EG4's are also quite a bit lower cost than 2 SOK's
Impressive work. Great system. Do you parallel the ac wiring with those splice blocks under the inverter? Was thinking of a junction box but i like your idea
Love you content but you said something at @2:52 that confused me. You said you are comfortable with 2 gage wire because the 100amp circuit breaker will prevent anything more than 100 amps from flowing on wires. As I understand it the breaker protects flow from the positive to the negative of each battery but the cables are in parallel outside the batteries which means the amperage can add. With 3 batteries that could be 300 amps. It does depend on the upstream fuse and inverter but assuming the battery breakers are protecting the external cable seems off. Again, love your stuff and just want to understand if I have it wrong.
My preference would be to run 2/0 on it all, but the lugs won’t fit on the hardware. Actually, they included #6 cables, what a joke. Anyway. The way I figure it, if all batteries contribute it’s 300 a / 3 meaning 100a per #2 wire. I see that as being fine. Now let’s think about failure modes, a dead short on a single #2 wire, the battery it’s connected to will blow its breaker, then the remaining 2 batteries could feed in up to 100a each for 200a total. Which is something that does concern me. However if it’s a dead short, the other breakers will blow in short order. If the load is external, the primary fuse would blow as well as the breakers. The breakers are on the positive line, the BMS is on the negative. Every which way I could figure we’re protected in a practical sense. I’m open to learning if we screwed up here. I’m just not sure how I’m a practical sense we could do it much different.
Why not 48volts? I really like my EG4 batteries however Will Prowse posted a video yesterday with a new SOK for $1349. It is pretty stripped down with no communication ports, no indicator lights and no pre-circut resistor. But it has bigger posts. I think the form factor is still a little bigger than the EG4. I do wish the EG4 had larger posts. Great install, I really like seeing the server rack batteries being used.
Two reasons, 1) Victron Multiplus 2x120 is only available in 12 and 24v versions. This is the biggest reason. This way we can run both in parallel, keeping balance and avoiding an autotransformer like you’d need with current 48v inverters from Victron. 2) that 24-12 converter is pretty darn stout at 70 amps output. I think we’d need 2 or more 48v step downs to equal it.
What about all your 12 volt systems in the rv. You didnt talk about a stepdown converter and how do you know if has enough amos for the slides and leveling jacks etc??
We’ve covey that in other videos. Look for other 24v installs. We use an Orion 24-12 70 amp step down and then leave a single 12v battery in parallel with that to power slides and other loads in an emergency. Been working great!
Nice install.. dig the battery setup... I have an older class A .. a 2003 Winnebago ... we are hitting the road for 6 moths or so.. I have a 24 volt system now in my shed at home and run my window ac and all my tools off solar so I realize the advantages of that higher voltage.. (I had a 12volt system in there before) BUT what do you think on running a 24 volt in my rig?.. (how I found your Vid) .. although I am a subscriber... I'm on a budget and was thinking going with a 24 volt system and keeping my 12 volt to run all my 12 volt stuff and slides (I have 2) I would apricate your Impute as I see you know what the heck your doing.. LOL
Watch the most recent video, we did one in a Winnebago Journey. We are a Victron dealer and sell to many people we don’t install for. We make margin (you pay same retails price as anywhere) and that covers consulting time for us . We’d be happy to discuss a system for you . Hit us up on the website sotasolar.com
Very nice work! I have been obsessing over my Keystone Cougar plans. This RV has the same layout on the roof as mine. If you dont mind, what panels did you use in that arrangement? Thanks in advance
Great work, been following your good work. I am on my 3rd build, this one is a 310gk, this is what I would like to do on it. What are the mods? They appear less wide than typically used, this would be perfect because of all the ACs on mine Best, Mike
Not sure I fully understand the question. I’d love to sell your the Victron equipment (free drop shipping). Free support is then built in. Hit us up on the website to talk more in detail.
The batteries are already encased completely and they generally don’t generate much heat during normal operation. That’s more for a hey draw application like a car. For comparison, a large RV system might use 10-20 kw in an entire day. Where an electric car might use 60kw in a few hours. It’s why EV batteries need the cooling.
With the panels mounted on the roof you will have to park the camper in the sun for full sun exposure heating up the interior of the camper. Why not use portable panels so you can keep the camper in the shade.
Many times we include a second charger just for that. Why choose? But seriously, once nice thing about covering the top of the roof is almost adding a second roof. They have a fair bit of shade almost all the time now.
@@sudo936 One of our guiding principals is "What will I do in practice?" ... if it's too much of a pain, or makes camping more of a chore, you won't do it. I think you're onto something there.
It makes no sense why this isn’t an option from the factory instead of a generator. If I could have had 6to9 eg4 48v batteries and 3200 watts of solar on the roof with 2 MP2 inverters etc etc, I would have added another 20k to my loan just for the ease of having it all. Side note WHY THE FUCK IS THERE SO MUCH UNUSED SPACE IN THESE GODDAMN RV’S!!!?!?! MAKE THESE VOIDS ACCESSIBLE CABINETS DAMMNIT!!!
Looks great. I wish the eg4 24v batteries Were available when I built my system. I have 2x 12V SOK 206AH batteries in series And periodically I have to deal with them getting a little bit out of balance. They are great batteries but an all-in-one 24 V battery would definitely be more ideal where all of the cells are managed by a single BMS. These EG4's are also quite a bit lower cost than 2 SOK's
We did an install with the 24v battery balancer. I would recommend it.
Impressive work. Great system. Do you parallel the ac wiring with those splice blocks under the inverter? Was thinking of a junction box but i like your idea
Love you content but you said something at @2:52 that confused me. You said you are comfortable with 2 gage wire because the 100amp circuit breaker will prevent anything more than 100 amps from flowing on wires. As I understand it the breaker protects flow from the positive to the negative of each battery but the cables are in parallel outside the batteries which means the amperage can add. With 3 batteries that could be 300 amps. It does depend on the upstream fuse and inverter but assuming the battery breakers are protecting the external cable seems off. Again, love your stuff and just want to understand if I have it wrong.
My preference would be to run 2/0 on it all, but the lugs won’t fit on the hardware. Actually, they included #6 cables, what a joke. Anyway. The way I figure it, if all batteries contribute it’s 300 a / 3 meaning 100a per #2 wire. I see that as being fine. Now let’s think about failure modes, a dead short on a single #2 wire, the battery it’s connected to will blow its breaker, then the remaining 2 batteries could feed in up to 100a each for 200a total. Which is something that does concern me. However if it’s a dead short, the other breakers will blow in short order. If the load is external, the primary fuse would blow as well as the breakers. The breakers are on the positive line, the BMS is on the negative.
Every which way I could figure we’re protected in a practical sense.
I’m open to learning if we screwed up here. I’m just not sure how I’m a practical sense we could do it much different.
Why not 48volts? I really like my EG4 batteries however Will Prowse posted a video yesterday with a new SOK for $1349. It is pretty stripped down with no communication ports, no indicator lights and no pre-circut resistor. But it has bigger posts. I think the form factor is still a little bigger than the EG4. I do wish the EG4 had larger posts. Great install, I really like seeing the server rack batteries being used.
Two reasons, 1) Victron Multiplus 2x120 is only available in 12 and 24v versions. This is the biggest reason. This way we can run both in parallel, keeping balance and avoiding an autotransformer like you’d need with current 48v inverters from Victron.
2) that 24-12 converter is pretty darn stout at 70 amps output. I think we’d need 2 or more 48v step downs to equal it.
@@sotasolar oh yes, that is one of the reasons I went with the quattro, works great for a 30amp system.
Impressive work. Is there any issues with plugging in 15 amp receptacles with the dual inverters?
What about all your 12 volt systems in the rv. You didnt talk about a stepdown converter and how do you know if has enough amos for the slides and leveling jacks etc??
We’ve covey that in other videos. Look for other 24v installs.
We use an Orion 24-12 70 amp step down and then leave a single 12v battery in parallel with that to power slides and other loads in an emergency. Been working great!
Nice install.. dig the battery setup... I have an older class A .. a 2003 Winnebago ... we are hitting the road for 6 moths or so.. I have a 24 volt system now in my shed at home and run my window ac and all my tools off solar so I realize the advantages of that higher voltage.. (I had a 12volt system in there before) BUT what do you think on running a 24 volt in my rig?.. (how I found your Vid) .. although I am a subscriber... I'm on a budget and was thinking going with a 24 volt system and keeping my 12 volt to run all my 12 volt stuff and slides (I have 2) I would apricate your Impute as I see you know what the heck your doing.. LOL
Watch the most recent video, we did one in a Winnebago Journey.
We are a Victron dealer and sell to many people we don’t install for. We make margin (you pay same retails price as anywhere) and that covers consulting time for us . We’d be happy to discuss a system for you . Hit us up on the website sotasolar.com
Very nice work! I have been obsessing over my Keystone Cougar plans. This RV has the same layout on the roof as mine. If you dont mind, what panels did you use in that arrangement? Thanks in advance
200w 24v Rich Solar.
We’d love to sell you the package hit me up at shawn@sotasolar.com all our stuff drop ships from the big guys, same price.
Great build. Where can I get the led light strips that you use? Thanks.
a.co/d/7JANhIf
Great work, been following your good work.
I am on my 3rd build, this one is a 310gk, this is what I would like to do on it. What are the mods? They appear less wide than typically used, this would be perfect because of all the ACs on mine
Best,
Mike
Not sure I fully understand the question. I’d love to sell your the Victron equipment (free drop shipping). Free support is then built in.
Hit us up on the website to talk more in detail.
Thank you will do, what modules did you use?
What about air flow on the batteries? It looks like they're boxed in completely except the front. Are you worried about high temps?
The batteries are already encased completely and they generally don’t generate much heat during normal operation. That’s more for a hey draw application like a car. For comparison, a large RV system might use 10-20 kw in an entire day. Where an electric car might use 60kw in a few hours. It’s why EV batteries need the cooling.
With the panels mounted on the roof you will have to park the camper in the sun for full sun exposure heating up the interior of the camper. Why not use portable panels so you can keep the camper in the shade.
Many times we include a second charger just for that. Why choose? But seriously, once nice thing about covering the top of the roof is almost adding a second roof. They have a fair bit of shade almost all the time now.
you just cant keep up with the ground deploy its a pita
@@sudo936 One of our guiding principals is "What will I do in practice?" ... if it's too much of a pain, or makes camping more of a chore, you won't do it. I think you're onto something there.
Curious, is going 24V the key to getting 2400W of solar on the roof using only a single Solar Charge Controller?
How would you store 2400w of panels to deploy? And where would you set them all?
Precharge resister for when starting the system up from slumber/storage?
These batteries have them built in.
It makes no sense why this isn’t an option from the factory instead of a generator. If I could have had 6to9 eg4 48v batteries and 3200 watts of solar on the roof with 2 MP2 inverters etc etc, I would have added another 20k to my loan just for the ease of having it all.
Side note WHY THE FUCK IS THERE SO MUCH UNUSED SPACE IN THESE GODDAMN RV’S!!!?!?! MAKE THESE VOIDS ACCESSIBLE CABINETS DAMMNIT!!!
Yup.