I didn't even think about all these possibilities and issues. I just did my normal and sprayed seafoam til loose. Soaked the valve in some seafoam. Shook til ball sound was freely moving around. I have a 10 dollar replacement found on Amazon. I am testing as my mpg is down to 14 in the city. No oil leaks or misfires. Tuneup was 2 years ago. So not sure why loss of mpg. Maybe EGR which I have to search for next.
and there is no engine code showing? I would look at air filter and intake (as well as the sensors) then spark plugs and related components, then fuel delivery. I've never used Seafoam but i hear good things.
Nice video very informative Please have fault code on my 2005 Honda pilot p0135 02 sensor heater circuit bank1 sensor 1 and p0155 02 sensor heater circuit bank2 sensor 1 My question is how do I know which is bank 1 or 2 and sensor 1 and 2 ?
It might help to remove the oil cap, but even with the valve cover off it was still a pain to remove mine. It didn't come out with my first yank with the tap and die set. I think mine was destined to snap, but maybe not. Next time I do one I'll remove the oil cap.
@@DIYNorth sometimes it gets stuck when the car is hot. especially plastic parts, rubber and silicone. they tend to expand. I have already ordered the item. Thanks for video. It’s really helped.
have you ever run into getting active misfires/rough idling after replacing the PCV valve? I just did mine last night and had to follow all the same steps (except I actually had to remove the intake manifold to get to that top valve cover bolt on my '07) and now it's idling rough.
no i already had something of a rough idle before doing this. I found a few things though. I replaced a lot of the vacuum hoses because they were collapsing in on themselves when the engine was running, the new ones were stiffer and didn't do that, and what really helped was cleaning the EGR. Some other things could be the air filter or the spark plugs. But after the PCV i did the EGR and that solved my issues.
I don't think that there is a set replacement timeline for the PCV valve. I did this because the vehicle was running poorly, rough idle. The valve can be tested, but its actually not a very expensive part so if you are doing the test I would be inclined to just replace it instead. I have seen recommendations to replace every 30,000 miles, but that might be excessive as I drove my pilot for 200,000 miles and it was still functioning. My plan for the future is to replace the PCV valve every 45,000 miles or 75,000 km on my vehicles.
Nice Job & Thanks again for sharing!👊. What were the symptoms to let you know that you were having difficulty with air through your front valve cover and the reason for PCV change. Also- did it solve the problem? Any codes?
This didn't solve my problem. The issue was a rough idle I also noticed that the vacuum tube that connected to the PCV Valve was collapsing on itself and when i pulled the vacuum tube off with it running the engine sounded much better. What fixed the issue was cleaning the EGR valve. Perhaps the blockage in the EGR valve was causing a negative pressure in the vacuum tube near the PCV valve, not too sure on that one.
@@DIYNorth I pulled mine out and cleaned it I think pretty well. The valve wasn’t sticky it seemed to move easily. I also cleaned out the plenum or whatever the top cover is called and still got flashing check engine and vtm light. Should I just drop 50 on a new egr?
@@DIYNorth I think it’s a cascading fault, multiple cylinder misfires. Everything came on when I hit a rough patch in the road coming to a stop sign. Drove 50 miles home and it just shudders at low rpm. I had it all written in my phone but I think it’s like P 300 to 306 or 7 something like that
I did use the tap from the exterior side of the valve cover, I just didn't get a good video of it. I wasn't able to get enough force on the tap while the valve cover was still on the engine to get the tap to really grip the snapped off PCV.
@@DIYNorth just an update, mine’s even worst, tap couldn’t grip the PCV valve, so I had to just break it apart inside the tube and get the pieces out one by one, hopefully no leftovers there or else, could clog the pcv system
WTF? Honda must have made big changes between the 2004 Pilot and the 2005 Pilot. On my 2004 Pilot, the PCV is on the rear valve cover (closest to the firewall) and simply pulls out like any other PCV valve I've ever had. It's plastic and it just pulls out and the new one pushes in (no bolt). All you have to do is open the spring hose clamp and slide the old PCV off the hose and slide in the new one then just push it in the grommet in the rear valve cover. And the PCV costs only a few bucks. I have never heard of a PCV costing as much as the one in this video. In fact, here's a video of the setup on a 2004 Honda Pilot like mine. ua-cam.com/video/J4hCixhYpIo/v-deo.html What was Honda thinking to make such a change?
Sí, si esta válvula está averiada, podría producir humo en el escape. Probablemente sería humo oscuro. Si es humo blanco, podría ser algo que permita que el refrigerante entre en el motor.
@@DIYNorth gracias si es humo entre negro y gris no siempre avienta solo derrepente le acabo de ajustar el motor pero ese problema ya lo tenía desde antes
Hice un video sobre el sensor de oxígeno Banco 2, Sensor 2. El banco 1 es más difícil de cambiar porque está más cerca de la pared de fuego. En cualquiera de los bancos, el sensor 2 es el sensor más barato y más fácil de reemplazar.
I just replaced the PCV Valve on my 05 Pilot and got lucky that it came out super easy. Good video!
lol, thanks. I'm jealous.
I didn't even think about all these possibilities and issues. I just did my normal and sprayed seafoam til loose. Soaked the valve in some seafoam. Shook til ball sound was freely moving around. I have a 10 dollar replacement found on Amazon. I am testing as my mpg is down to 14 in the city. No oil leaks or misfires. Tuneup was 2 years ago. So not sure why loss of mpg. Maybe EGR which I have to search for next.
and there is no engine code showing? I would look at air filter and intake (as well as the sensors) then spark plugs and related components, then fuel delivery. I've never used Seafoam but i hear good things.
Nice video very informative
Please have fault code on my 2005 Honda pilot p0135 02 sensor heater circuit bank1 sensor 1 and p0155 02 sensor heater circuit bank2 sensor 1
My question is how do I know which is bank 1 or 2 and sensor 1 and 2 ?
bank 1 is against the fire wall and bank 2 is against the radiator. Sensor 1 is the upper one and Sensor 2 is lower.
I took the oil cap off and mine came out real easy. Noticed yours was still on
It might help to remove the oil cap, but even with the valve cover off it was still a pain to remove mine. It didn't come out with my first yank with the tap and die set. I think mine was destined to snap, but maybe not. Next time I do one I'll remove the oil cap.
@@DIYNorth You know what you're 100% correct on that one. You had to tap that sucker out. That had to have sucked.
@@DIYNorth hi! Engine was cold or hot?
@@ValP-044 I would say it was just warm.
@@DIYNorth sometimes it gets stuck when the car is hot. especially plastic parts, rubber and silicone. they tend to expand. I have already ordered the item. Thanks for video. It’s really helped.
have you ever run into getting active misfires/rough idling after replacing the PCV valve? I just did mine last night and had to follow all the same steps (except I actually had to remove the intake manifold to get to that top valve cover bolt on my '07) and now it's idling rough.
no i already had something of a rough idle before doing this. I found a few things though. I replaced a lot of the vacuum hoses because they were collapsing in on themselves when the engine was running, the new ones were stiffer and didn't do that, and what really helped was cleaning the EGR. Some other things could be the air filter or the spark plugs. But after the PCV i did the EGR and that solved my issues.
Is this something that should be done for maintenance or it doesn’t need to be replaced unless it fails
I don't think that there is a set replacement timeline for the PCV valve. I did this because the vehicle was running poorly, rough idle. The valve can be tested, but its actually not a very expensive part so if you are doing the test I would be inclined to just replace it instead. I have seen recommendations to replace every 30,000 miles, but that might be excessive as I drove my pilot for 200,000 miles and it was still functioning. My plan for the future is to replace the PCV valve every 45,000 miles or 75,000 km on my vehicles.
Nice Job & Thanks again for sharing!👊. What were the symptoms to let you know that you were having difficulty with air through your front valve cover and the reason for PCV change. Also- did it solve the problem? Any codes?
This didn't solve my problem. The issue was a rough idle I also noticed that the vacuum tube that connected to the PCV Valve was collapsing on itself and when i pulled the vacuum tube off with it running the engine sounded much better. What fixed the issue was cleaning the EGR valve. Perhaps the blockage in the EGR valve was causing a negative pressure in the vacuum tube near the PCV valve, not too sure on that one.
@@DIYNorth I pulled mine out and cleaned it I think pretty well. The valve wasn’t sticky it seemed to move easily. I also cleaned out the plenum or whatever the top cover is called and still got flashing check engine and vtm light. Should I just drop 50 on a new egr?
@@LTCAproductions Do you know what the code is?
@@DIYNorth I think it’s a cascading fault, multiple cylinder misfires. Everything came on when I hit a rough patch in the road coming to a stop sign. Drove 50 miles home and it just shudders at low rpm. I had it all written in my phone but I think it’s like P 300 to 306 or 7 something like that
@@LTCAproductions I would consider starting at the knock sensor, knock sensor wiring harness, and any associated fuses.
Hi do you think I can just use the tap from the outside? I also snapped mine off
I did use the tap from the exterior side of the valve cover, I just didn't get a good video of it. I wasn't able to get enough force on the tap while the valve cover was still on the engine to get the tap to really grip the snapped off PCV.
@@DIYNorth just an update, mine’s even worst, tap couldn’t grip the PCV valve, so I had to just break it apart inside the tube and get the pieces out one by one, hopefully no leftovers there or else, could clog the pcv system
@@kg_1720 Well at least you got it out I guess. Maybe put a shop vac in front of the hole and try to pull any small pieces back out.
@@DIYNorth job done but check engine light is on
Is there 1 or 2 pcv on tbe 2005??
There is only one.
WTF? Honda must have made big changes between the 2004 Pilot and the 2005 Pilot. On my 2004 Pilot, the PCV is on the rear valve cover (closest to the firewall) and simply pulls out like any other PCV valve I've ever had. It's plastic and it just pulls out and the new one pushes in (no bolt). All you have to do is open the spring hose clamp and slide the old PCV off the hose and slide in the new one then just push it in the grommet in the rear valve cover. And the PCV costs only a few bucks. I have never heard of a PCV costing as much as the one in this video. In fact, here's a video of the setup on a 2004 Honda Pilot like mine.
ua-cam.com/video/J4hCixhYpIo/v-deo.html
What was Honda thinking to make such a change?
Yes, there were a bunch of 2004 Honda Pilots that were in the scrap yard near my house, but nothing I was ever looking for was a direct swap.
👍
thanks.
Puede ser que por culpa de esa valvula aviente humo no siempre avienta sólo de vez en cuando
Sí, si esta válvula está averiada, podría producir humo en el escape. Probablemente sería humo oscuro. Si es humo blanco, podría ser algo que permita que el refrigerante entre en el motor.
@@DIYNorth gracias si es humo entre negro y gris no siempre avienta solo derrepente le acabo de ajustar el motor pero ese problema ya lo tenía desde antes
@@DIYNorth y me reporta sensor de oxígeno banco 1 sensor 2 permanente
Hice un video sobre el sensor de oxígeno Banco 2, Sensor 2. El banco 1 es más difícil de cambiar porque está más cerca de la pared de fuego. En cualquiera de los bancos, el sensor 2 es el sensor más barato y más fácil de reemplazar.
@@DIYNorth gracias