if you have an EM erase head then adding a switch is a pretty decent mod. I picked up a player recently with a regular old magnet and you can't add a switch to those. I'll have to try the band aid method when I get back around to tape loops (heh)
I did that on my Tascam 414 and Yamah MT120, it's a definite plus ! Both these units have a 8pin connector for the erase head on the board, so it's easy to build and plug in between a set of 4 toggle switches, one for each tape track.
Unfortunately some Erase heads have a fixed magnet, not an electro magnet. This means they are permanently on. It's their proximity to the surface of the tape that allows them to erase the audio. A lot of these cheaper erase heads are blue in colour but the simplist way to identify them is they have no wires to the back of them.
You my friend are a genius. I really want to make a couple of these to mess around on. Maybe to give to a teacher of mine as a gift too. How did you make the small rollers on these? Brilliant!
One STUPID-simple way I do it (and looks like it could be the same here), is after disassembling the cassette and splicing your loop you're left with a BUNCH of extra still spooled up - I simply unwind until it's the diameter I'm looking for, cut off the excess, and then tape the end of the tape reel down onto the rest of the spool, making a big "wheel" of tape! When making DIY cassette loops after a while, one thing your never short of is tape itself; might as well use it! I've also experimented with wrapping the whole finished wheel with some frictionless tape (Kapton was one, the clear yellow stuff for PCB's and soldering-or some glass-fiber PE tape-but I found issues when making the surface _too_ slippery as a bit of friction is needed to retain proper tension, and a bit extra can actually assist in that nice warbly flutter!
Thanks, I do same but add a layer of aluminum foil between tape, but after watching this it seems I don't need to. Would you consider doing a quick tutorial on how you mount the rollers inside the cassette? Cheers
Notes from a Philips aq6340 owner(walkman type o' memorecorder) a: if the 'bandaid' gets pushed down too much it'll push the tape to a halt. B: in my case the play-mechanism needs some room in there too, so at first it didnt play at all, after narrowing the 'bandaid' it worked. C: I can't record... with 'bandaid' nothing gets recorded or erased. Without I'm indeed left with clicks and cuts.
Did you find a solution to this? I have a GE 3-5027, and having the same issue. With the bandaid, it hardly records and has huge issues functioning smoothley. I've tried adjusting the size and pressure numerous times to no avail.
Thank you! Have seen so many nonworking or damaging methods for this
Very cool trick! The lovely MC-202 - my first synth!
Simple yet effective technique. I was particularly impressed with the pushing the tape inside the cavity, keeping it well away from the erase head.
I have tried variations of your idea - your's worked! Thank you!
Excellent technique, I'll have to give it a go!
thanks so much for sharing this technique
this worked an absolute treat for me. many thanks.... now can anyone tell me where to buy those extra tape guides[?] and how they are attached? cheers
Thanks for the tip man. Had no idea I could do this
Exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!
if you have an EM erase head then adding a switch is a pretty decent mod. I picked up a player recently with a regular old magnet and you can't add a switch to those. I'll have to try the band aid method when I get back around to tape loops (heh)
nice work!
hmmm. maybe modify a tape deck to have an on/off toggle switch for the erase head?
Exactly what I am considering!
I did that on my Tascam 414 and Yamah MT120, it's a definite plus ! Both these units have a 8pin connector for the erase head on the board, so it's easy to build and plug in between a set of 4 toggle switches, one for each tape track.
Unfortunately some Erase heads have a fixed magnet, not an electro magnet. This means they are permanently on. It's their proximity to the surface of the tape that allows them to erase the audio. A lot of these cheaper erase heads are blue in colour but the simplist way to identify them is they have no wires to the back of them.
You my friend are a genius. I really want to make a couple of these to mess around on. Maybe to give to a teacher of mine as a gift too. How did you make the small rollers on these? Brilliant!
One STUPID-simple way I do it (and looks like it could be the same here), is after disassembling the cassette and splicing your loop you're left with a BUNCH of extra still spooled up - I simply unwind until it's the diameter I'm looking for, cut off the excess, and then tape the end of the tape reel down onto the rest of the spool, making a big "wheel" of tape!
When making DIY cassette loops after a while, one thing your never short of is tape itself; might as well use it! I've also experimented with wrapping the whole finished wheel with some frictionless tape (Kapton was one, the clear yellow stuff for PCB's and soldering-or some glass-fiber PE tape-but I found issues when making the surface _too_ slippery as a bit of friction is needed to retain proper tension, and a bit extra can actually assist in that nice warbly flutter!
Heya great video very helpful. Say, where do you get those little plastic bits you have in there to extend the loop? The blue and orange bits
What is this cassette loop for?
Music repepitive ambient .techno
Hello! what kind of splicing tape do you use?
I love your videos. Thanks!
Gracias por la data bro!
Simple and effective, thanks! The actual recording sounds great, what type of cassette are you using to create your loops? cheers!
i tried it but it just distorted he sound. Can anyone help me?
Thanks, I do same but add a layer of aluminum foil between tape, but after watching this it seems I don't need to. Would you consider doing a quick tutorial on how you mount the rollers inside the cassette? Cheers
Notes from a Philips aq6340 owner(walkman type o' memorecorder) a: if the 'bandaid' gets pushed down too much it'll push the tape to a halt. B: in my case the play-mechanism needs some room in there too, so at first it didnt play at all, after narrowing the 'bandaid' it worked.
C: I can't record... with 'bandaid' nothing gets recorded or erased. Without I'm indeed left with clicks and cuts.
Did you find a solution to this? I have a GE 3-5027, and having the same issue. With the bandaid, it hardly records and has huge issues functioning smoothley. I've tried adjusting the size and pressure numerous times to no avail.
Thank you for this. And say hi to your dad from me. Party on Daddy-o! Sorry about that. And but thanks again.