Introducing Caged Queen and Splitting Hive (Most Effective Method)!
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2016
- This video has a primary and secondary point. The first is a method that can be used to get a purchased queen successfully accepted by a hive. Mainly this involved using very young bees that are more likely to accept a new queen and give them no options to re-queen themselves (meaning don't add any frames with eggs on them). The secondary message is to split a hive successfully. In my video, I am trying to keep the splits small so I use only a couple of frames to start the hives. However, if you want to make a full split, just use more frames of brood, though it is definitely best if you avoid eggs. If getting frames with eggs is unavoidable, just keep the extra hive body on the hive for at least three days, then make you split! Hope you like it, it is the easiest and best way to be almost 100% sure that your queen investment will not die!
- Домашні улюбленці та дикі тварини
My wife and I did this technique and it worked. The hive is slowly building up with the new queen. Thanks again for the tutorial.
I love your teaching style! You make everything plain and simple to understand which is so helpful for new beekeepers! Thank you so much for this video! I have a new queen coming this coming week and I will try this method.
What a great presentation and calm explanation, as a beginner, I clearly understood every step.
Tomorrow my replacement queen arrives, I hope I’ll follow your instructions correctly.
Thank you.
Hi, Thank you for demonstration, I find the video very instructive, I learned lot.
Wish you good luck and God bless you.
Mounir from Algeria "North of Africa".
I love the pace of your videos and thanks for the super clear description! Ill be introducing my first queen with this style cage today.
I just ran across this video. I am new to beekeeping and this method is something I will try! I have watched others doing splits, etc., but as you mentioned, young bees will accept new queens in a friendly manner, and im sure it works well. I lost my virgin queen, so I have a new mated one in the hive. It was a weak hive, so hopefully I can try this method before the summer ends. Thanks again for the different method of doing splits.
This was a great video with a simple and concise methodology for expanding the Apiary. I always enjoy the aspect of your scientific, environmental, and practical ways to mange the bees. Started my Apiary in April 2017 with two hives (2) brood boxes each, harvested 10 pints of honey from the strongest hive, and went into a NC mountain winter over 60# of honey in each hive.Your series of videos has aided me in managing a healthy Apiary and come spring 2018, I hope to quadruple my hives, based on this video.
Thanks,Zach - Z Bees Apiary
Thanks David, I appreciate the support and am glad that you have found the videos useful! Hopefully, in 2018 I can make more videos, more consistently.
love your audio now...so much better! thanks
Introducing the Queen this way, with young Nurse Bees is just what I needed to learn ! (I ordered, am getting x2 Buckfast Queens, in May, here in Scotland, UK.)
I now know what to do with my one existing Hive, and can do x2 Nucs via some Splits ! Thank you ... 🐝
New Subscriber .... 🤗
Thanks for another very informative video. I will try this when we get to early spring down here in Australia.
Terrific, Thanks for all the detail. I plan on using this method come spring. Thinking to over wintering as nuns and use brood else where as needed as the season progresses
Your Welcome...thanks for responding!
That is good info,I will use them t in a couple days. Thanks
That kid with the bare arms and legs, fearless.
Great video
I guess ill be splitting the strong hive, keep the queen and introduce the new queen to the split,
Then requeen the old slow hive which I originally started with.
Great videos, keep it up mate
Great Video, you explained why you left the new box on overnight!
great videos!
Thanks for information about queen bew
Thanks for the video
Thank you for the tutorial.
Great advice! I will try this next week. Once the queen is accepted, can you put the new nuc back on top of a strong queen right hive with a queen excluder to build up the population faster?
how to release the queen from those sorts of queen cages was just the info I was looking for. I'll be sure to remove that cork. I couldn't be sure if it was cork or candy in that plug. I've only had the queen for one day; so no harm.
Should we call you Doug Heffernan, because your the king, of queens!
Excellent video! We're saving this one for future reference.
Thanks. Glad you liked it!
Thanks.
Thanks - great video, one question though. I keep hearing that the new split hive has to be moved 5kms away for a few days before its brought back to its original location. Is this necessary or can you just put it next to the old hive and walk away?
I guess no need to as the new hatching bees will get to learn their new queen and location. If older bees that when they go back to old hive.
In addition, we only moving some nursing bees, not foragers bees
How long would it take those nucs to fill out the frames? would it be better to leave one frame out and use an in hive feeder to get them a leg up drawing out the 2 new foundation frames?
2 questions. R u using the Demaree Method on the hives?
What state r u in?
Thx
I have used this way before and i like it because i know the queen is in the bottom. I usually split this way its the easiest way i found. If you a full 10 frame you get 5 hives new. Actually if you move eggs also they will make there own queen
So you can keep the nukes on the same location? I'm guessing that because the bees on the frames transfered into the nucs are nurse bees, they won't try and return to the original hive.
Best done in a honey flow to aid acceptance, feed can be given if no flow to help
What place did you order your caucasian queens? Interested in trying some caucasian queens 2017. Thanks, Jeff
Winters Apiaries out of Tennessee. His name is David Winters and their email is sales@caucasianbreeder.com
caucasianbreeder.com
Not sure that link works, but a quick google search for 'winters apiaries' will get you there.
To understand what you saying. You ultimately making a split? Is that correct ? Im just learning
What if the hive I am splitting from has some honey supers on top. Do I add the split frames with brood on top of the honey supers?
Great tutorial. Antonio Vivaldi my favorite.
Have you quit UA-cam? I've learned alot from you.....continue!!!
What kind of Mic are you using? You sound so great. I don't see a wired mic.
THANKS!!
Thank You!
That's the same kind of bee I think I want to go with where do you get your Queens from
I have frames with last years wax on them (not drawn) can I use them in a split
Would you be concerned about them being chilled in a northern spring climate. ? i have seen this method a few times now and would love to try it. My night time lows will be 38-40*F around when my queens arrive. do you think the heat chinmnying up the hive would be enough to keep them warm until nurse bees covered them? or is that a risky thing to do at those kind of lows? thanks , Scott.
It doesn't take too long for the nurse bees to get up there, usually within an hour or so. Night time lows of 38 wouldn't be a problem, especially in strong hives. The bees will move around so that the brood doesn't get chilled. However, once you remove the brood and add the queen, and then separate the nucleus into a separate hive, you might take a couple of frames of brood from the mother hive and shake those nurse bees into the split, just to be sure.
this worked great. i got full acceptance on three queens and managed to rebuild 4 colonies from my one remaining prolific hive from a 2016 swarm capture. On that note extra bees are not something i have alot of, the temperature bottomed out the day after i split and so i blacked out the window in my honey shack and set the temperature at 7*c (45*F) because our nighttime lows are in the low 20's. they are chilling in the conditioned space until this weekend when temperatures should come back up.
Hi, Love your videos. My question: I have a year old hive and half of my bees swarmed about 3 weeks ago. There are plenty of bees left in the hive but I have not been able to locate a queen or qcells. I inspected yesterday and see no evidence of any eggs, larvae or brood. Lots of bees, pollen and honey. I ordered a new queen today and should arrive in 1-2 days. What do you recommend? After seeing this video, I am afraid they won't accept her OR there is a queen still in there and I am wrong. Thanks!
Sorry this isn't timely enough to help. However, it is likely they are queenless and what I would recommend (in the future) is to do a manual release of the queen. Put the queen cage in the hive for at least three days, then check on them. If the workers in the hive are aggressive towards the queen, check for eggs in the frames and if you still don't find any, put the queen in for another three days and then check again. When they have accepted her you will know you can release her.
Did you cover the entrance?
Can you show me the design of your nuc box? What is that at the entrance?
Leave it to me to find a way to loose the queen this way lol but hope not!! I have my colony in shaded, well ventilated area. And have bent holes in the box, but still worried about locking them up for a day in the summer? Is it ok??
another bee keeper told me candy down can be a problem because if one of the attendant bees in the cage dies.... it blocks the candy hole and the queen dies and remains stuck in there
I have a nuc with a new healthy laying queen. I want to replace an old queen in one of my mature hives. When i introduce the new queen to the mature hive i ahould do so by catching her and putting her in a queen cage with some attendants correct?
Also, r the best attendants young house bee’s?
Many thx
Dave fr WV & SE OH
Thank you for your great work. Quick question. What would be the best way to do the split and keep both mother hive and new nuc/hive on the same general area/yard?
I did that in this video. All of of the bees in the split were young bees and had never been out of the hive. You just have to keep the mother hive where it is and when you make the split, move it to your location before adding the queen.
Hello, we are new to this and split our hive this year. We added the queen today and did it just as you showed was best. I found your video because I thought we had done it wrong. Most of these videos, show to put the cage in vertical, not horizontal the way we did, and you showed. (screen was down) we did not poke the pilot hole through the candy plug though. My question is, why don't you want any eggs? I have a hard time seeing the eggs, but we had larva and some capped brood as well as capped drones. We used three frames like that and one/ one and a half maybe of honey.......I hope all go's well.
OH, and we took them to a friend's house about ten miles away. In two or three weeks, we plan to bring them back home.
Hi. If you get eggs in the split and you make the final split within four days, the bees will make emergency queen cells and try to raise their own queen. In the absence of eggs, they have no choice but to accept the new queen, and if they are all nurse bees this won't be a problem. Also, if you are making a split by adding brood above a queen excluder, you can just move the split to where you want them in the same yard. Since the bees are 99% nurse bees they haven't been outside the hive (and oriented to that hive) yet. Plus, if there are foragers in there when they forage they will fly back to the original hive leaving only nurse bees to accept the new queen. That clear as mud? Thanks for watching!
No, that makes perfect sense! I'm glad I asked. Thank you very much! Wouldn't you still need the forager bees to gather and make honey? Maybe with one frame or so of honey it would hold them over? Thanks again!
Really interesting video. One question, if you move a few frames and they have a few eggs why is this a problem?? I am thinking of starting another new hive with a purchased queen then using a few frames from existing hives. I had no idea how to do it but you make it seem to be straightforward.
1) Find 3 - 5 frames of capped brood or larvae. Shake off bees and put them in separate box,
2) Separate from hive with a queen excluder and allow nurse bees to cover the separate frames over night.
3) Place frames and nurse bees in new hive with some empty frames.
4) Fix queen cage some that candy doesn't kill queen or melt to fast. Allows the slow introduction of new queen.
5) maybe add food for the new hive
Leave for a week and check new queen is ok and laying
Does that sound about right?
Many thanks
Carl
Your list is correct. The only consideration when moving frames of eggs or brood is that the hive has enough bees to cover those frames if they are away from the other brood. The bees will have to split into two clusters to cover the brood. I realize in this case you are intentionally creating two separate clusters, but just make sure in the old and new hives that the brood (and eggs) are together in their respective hive bodies. Does that answer your question?
hi I just subscribed and I wanted to know how will you protect the bees from hornets? will you set a trap for them? and finally I love this channel. insects are bee-utiful
Usually strong hives don't have a problem defending against hornets, at least in my neck of the woods. If they are being attacked make sure they are queenright and there is no sign of disease. If they are weak, but everything else seems fine, just use an entrance reducer to close them up a little (start at about 4") and give them a smaller area to defend. If it is still happening you can close them all the way down to 1" at the front, but if it is hot where you are located, make sure there is an upper vent or entrance. If you have a vented inner cover, just close the telescoping cover enough so that there is still airflow through that vent, but not enough space for bees or hornets to use it as an entrance. If is is a new split, make sure you have a small entrance for sure! Hope this helps!
+Honey Bee Honey ok thx.
I noticed that some beekeepers raise their own queens. Is it better to buy them?
From what I've seen from most of the videos, I think for some people it's more the time/patience aspect, and with others it's changing genetics... If you have awesome bees, you may want to be patient, and rear a queen, or if you accidentally kill a queen, and don't notice for a few days, and all the brood is too old, it may actually be necessary to buy. But if you have nasty ones, you really want to change out the genetics, that's another time to buy.
How late in the year can you split hives?
It depends on the split you are trying to accomplish and how harsh your winters are. Many people split very large colonies in the fall to make overwintering nucs. This is helpful because inevitable in the spring you eventually lose a queen over winter. With an overwintered nuc you can now unite the two colonies and have a great year. If you have to split a hive and that hive has to pull comb and store resources, it is best to wait until spring. One thing is for certain. There will be no nectar or pollen flow after the first killing frost. Bees will have to then live off the stores they gathered prior to winter setting in until early spring when pollen is starting to come back.
How is it that you and your son dont get stung!! I have to wear a full suit or they get me. The bees dont even seem to be bothering you.
I've been doing this for about 24 years. 99% of the time, it's how you work the bees that causes them to sting, not the bees themselves. When a hive is stressed (i.e. diseased, queenless, starving, getting robbed, etc.) they are more prone to stinging and you have to be extra careful. They are also pheremone driven animals as most are, but they can literally smell fear or anxiety and that seems to me (my observations rather than any scientific proof) a common cause of stinging.
why not leave the nuc queenless for a day first?
If the nuc has all young bees, there is no need to. It won't hurt though.
If I pinch a queen and immediately add a queen cell, will the bees accept this queen cell? I'm worried they will tear down the queen cell and then make their own from their eggs. These are some mean bees I would like to requeen.
I can't tell you for sure, but if the queen is viable in the hive, they will definitely make emergency queen cells (EQC) from the viable eggs and the chances aren't that good for the survival of a single queen cell, or even a few that you add. You would have to do what you proposed and after four days go in and destroy all of the EQC's. Though, just because the hive might be mean now doesn't presuppose that their offspring would be the same because the drone fits into the equation also. Also, I have rarely observed "mean" hives unless they are in an area where AFB are known to exist. Look for other causes of stress on the hive. Thanks for watching!
Oh...I can assure you this area (Austin, TX) has plenty of AHB. It's funny to watch some videos and see how some bees are vs. the bees here. For the most part, all the feral bees around here have some percentage of AHB.
My main hive, when I 1st got it, I would get stung about 1/5 times (when I'd just sit near it). There were always bees near my head, but I'd get zapped about 1/5 times.This doesn't include inspections. This is just me sitting about 6' away from the hive watching them enter with their little pollen sacs filled.
The daughter queen is much nicer, though. All my bees are survivor stock. They're manageable, but whenever I visit other peoples hives (who order queens), I'm amazed at how chill the bees are, it's as if they're a different species! ;)
Mine certainly aren't full tilt mean, but they're far from angels! Thank you for your help! I was going to just add a cell, but now...I'll let them ~think they're making their own queen....then cut their cells.
This hive I'm asking about isn't my hive. Those are some really mean bees (and just in a nuc!) I'd hate to see them in a few deeps!
You have very mild species of bees, they are not stinging you at all. What's the name of this specie?
All of my bees are European (Italian, Carniolan and Caucasian), but truth be told it is in the way you work them...just takes time to learn. Thanks for writing.
👍✳️👍✳️👍✳️
What's a Caucasian queen, I've heard of Carniolan queens as well as Tiger striped ones but never a Caucasian one. 🐝
Excellent suggestion to stick through the candy plug. You're the only keeper I've come across that does that. Great information, Thank you for sharing all of this.
🌾 Green Blessings 🌾
Caucasian bees are from the Caucasus mountains in Europe (Eurasia actually). They are black bees with grey strips as opposed to Carniolans that are black bees with tan or brown stripes. They used to be available from a few breeders but for whatever reason beekeepers have gotten away from them. More recently, they are being used because they are exhibiting resistance to Varroa. Typically they are characterized as very gentle and good honey producers. Their one drawback is that they love propolis so they use it more than other European bees, though I have never personally found it to be a problem. Recent research has even reported that hives with more propolis are healthier (propolis has antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal properties). Routinely, all honeybees use propolis to treat cells after they have hatched...they coat the inside of the cell with a layer of propolis before the queen lays another egg in it (which, in large part is why the combs turn black after a few years). Keep watching as I'm going to do a video later in the year to talk about subspecies of honeybees, but I want to wait until the Caucasians have bees hatching to do it.
Hmm, that's absolutely great info. I truly appreciate the time you took to write all that to answer me.
Propolis shouldn't be a problem if it's so beneficial. I think some keepers just don't like prying so hard to get everything apart to get into the hive. Excellent if it's so great, I've even seen some keepers eat a bit of propolis. Look forward to the video about Caucasians. Now I really wonder where I'm going to find this sort of breed of bee in my area.
🌾 Green Blessings 🌾
I don't know where you hail from (not sure exactly where Winterfell is)...but I ordered my queens from Winters Apiaries in Tennessee, just in case you wanted to know.
South Dakota, the SW corner. Winds are bone biting here. (I hail from the north! 😉 ) Thanks for letting me know where you got your queens. I'll check them out, but I'm not sure if the queens will survive the up & down temps we get here in winter. (We're known to roam outside in shorts some days, because it's warm enough to us. LOL )
🌾 Green Blessings 🌾
Your Welcome. Caucasian bees are pretty hardy...the Caucasus mountains are pretty brutal in the winter and cool in the summer. It seems like a good fit to me, though I haven't been to South Dakota since I was about 10...which was a long, long, time ago!
You where giving them honey, did they give you sugar sugar? XD
Obviously they wont sting unless you upset them somehow. But how those bees don't fly up your shorts and go buzzing around is not a risk I would like to take.
"Never ever candy up?" That's the opposite I have heard and seen. Maybe 90 degree weather makes a difference.
Maybe, but the queen should be near the brood, which requires an incubation temperature near 98 degrees anyway, if I remember correctly. I know that I will never do it again!
Honeybees Honey have you heard of Dfm probiotics for honeybee's u won't be The promise thing's i see coming from the probiotics for honeybee's its truely amazing as a beekeeper in Princeton Missouri i was kinda of skeptical about the stuff but i tried it anyway and Man I'm glad i did super Dfm probiotics
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