Replace wood on Utility Trailer - no welding
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- This is a step by step description of how I changed the wood on my Parker Utility trailer. Sorry if it's long, but I wanted to cover all the steps. I couldn't find any decent instructions on how to do it myself, so I created this video for others in the same situation. My trailer deck is 54 inches (4.5 ft) by 96 inches (8 ft), so the lumber needs to total 53.5 inches by 95 inches. I bought pressure treated lumber: five 2x10x8 and one 2x6x8 (I incorrectly say "2x8x8" a few times), all cut to 95 inches. The project took a few hours, but I made some mistakes. It cost less than $100 and I completed it all by myself with basic hand and some power tools.
Pretty genius to cut a entryway 👍
I really appreciate that you speak clearly and slowly so we can understand what you are doing. Love the way you explain everything very simple. This was very helpful being that I have been in construction all my life. Being a woman contractor I feel like I can see when some one really enjoys what they are doing. We are working on ours which is 16ft long. Thanks for sharing. Hugs!
Great video! Home Depot cut the 2 x 8's for us. Thanks James. Cut the section out of the frame and slid the boards in one by one. Painted all the framework that I could get to. For someone without a whole lot of experience, I think it worked out great! Thanks for your help!
Thanks for this video. I start today on my 5 X 8 landscape trailer repair. Your no weld solution was one I had arrived at looking at my trailer but you have given me the confidence to proceed.
A very good job on this video. I actually watched it all because I was just curious. I don't even have to do this to my trailer (yet) but I was curious how you did it and you did a great job explaining everything and showing everything.
Great job. Very thorough and well produced. I have been given several tips on how to replace my deck, and this is definitely the most efficient way to go. Thanks for your time and for putting this video out there.
Great video, well explained! Thanks for your time of putting it together. We have to replace the floor on a 16' trailer, and were contemplating cutting the entire end off, replacing the boards, then having it welded back on... Since we don't weld, that was a problem. We were kinda putting it off, but now are looking forward to it! Thanks so much :-)
Thank you, liked that cut you did just to slide the wood. I will be doing that.
I really appreciate your posting of this video! I need to replace the decking on my trailer and this video really has helped. I especially like the idea that you used to cut out the c-channel for the boards to fit through. I really like the idea of the job being much easier the next time floor replacement is needed. Good job! Very clear.
Was looking for a 'no weld' solution. I believe you nailed it. My trailer is similarly constructed. Thanks!
Thanks Alan! The trailer still looks great and the boards I put on in this video are still solid. Good luck!
I like the explanation, especially selection and mounting of the boards. Thank you for these tips. it will save a lot of heartache for anyone wanting to do this.
If your wood is wet you should never space your boards. When they dry he will end up with about 1/2"- 3/4" space.
great video & great repair. I've got a similar trailer with the c-channel on both ends and a couple of my boards have some termite damage and I was perplexed as to how to replace them and your video gave me the know-how and confidence to repair my trailer. Thanks!
Just about time to replace the boards on my 5 x 8 trailer. Thanks for the video tips. Will make thing easier.
I JUST BOUGHT A TRAILER JUST LIKE YOURS. YOU DID A GREAT JOB INSTALLING THE BOARD. THANKS ON THE GREAT VIDEO. WILL START MY PROJECT SOON.
good job 👏 you answered a lot of questions 👍
Exactly what I’m doing to my trailer-I’m using wood preservative even in the channels which will keep moisture out. Coat the fasteners with preservative also
Thanks for posting! I am just getting ready to take on the same project and your video really helped me to wrap my mind around it.
Thanks for a great video. I guess that you have to cut no matter what when it comes to these trailers. It would have been nice to see you drill the boards and make the cuts to the c channel, but that would have required someone else to hold the camera. You did a great job explaining everything that you did. The final product looks really sharp !
Great video. I have the same trailer and could not figure out how to reinstall the wood. Thanks for the information.
My trailer had angle metal at the front of trailer so the boards laid in with no problem then there was a small 1" angle metal piece that went over top at the front and bolted down with 2 1/4-20 bolts with lock nuts. It was very easy to replace the boards.
I purchased it from David's Trailer in Orlando FL if anyone wants to buy one so they can maintain it easier.
Outstanding video. very well put together. You should have given the viewers a small bit and pieces of the actual work, the sanding, cutting of the channel and the bolt removel. At the same time, A+ video
Just about to replace the boards in my 5X10 trailer and this video gave me some great ideas, THX!
Hey, I have a 5x10 trailer Im about to replace boards, what kind of boards did you use??
@@c.juneau410 Treated 2X8's
@@ocdmachine So, If I got a 5x10 trailer I can get 2x8x10'ft long?
@@c.juneau410 Yeah but verify length 1st, treated lumber is pricey but as I recall 10 footers fit just fine for mine. 10 foot won't bend much to tuck under any lip you may have but my trailer didn't require it. I did add some additional mounting bolts, other than that pretty straightforward. God luck.
@@ocdmachine Alright cool deal. Thank You so much!
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to record/edit this video and sharing it with the world. A couple of questions/ideas? Why not use stainless steel screws instead of zinc? I also thought of slightly counter-sinking the pilot holes in the wood so that the screw heads are just below the surface to avoid catching and scratching loads that are slid over them.
Awesome. Thanks for taking your time to explain it so well
I can't seem to reply directly to a comment so I'll just add a new one. As Sawdust45205 said, do not space the wood. The wood is going to shrink and leave an even larger space.
Great video, well explained and thorough. Thanks for sharing.
next time just cut and grind the bolts off and redrill and tap new holes far quicker than struggling to get them out
this will be helping me in the future....nice explanation
Nice job. I'm getting ready to re-deck my trailer. I don't have the issue with the "C" channel you did but am planning on extending the deck a foot longer (6" front and 6" back). might need to add some "L" channel to the boards to keep them uniform and level.
I just bought a trailer that needs to have the wood replaced.... Thanks for the tip
very helpful..you came into a problem and you solve problem
Good job bro ...thanks ill be redecking my trailer soon as well
Hey there, Nice job, ignore all the idiot keyboard warriors. Looks like you saved a lot of money and have a nice finished project.
You make it so difficult...
Well, explain how to do it then!
Great video! Thank you!
This really helped thank you
looks really nice
Great video. Got some good tips from this. Thanks.
That's the way I'm gonna do mine too.
Good job!
Great info. Thanks for your time and effort.
If using pressure treated one should chose the straightest boards and let dry before installing. However, if you cant make sure to pull the boards tight as possible. I use ratchet straps to pull tight and install a bolt to hold in place every couple boards. HD or the other box store sell the torx head self tapping metal screws typically less expensive than Carriage or Phillips head bolts nuts and washers and easier to install. When installing the torx head screws you can use a power tool or a ratchet wrench ( will have to pre-drill wood and can use existing holes or drill new in the metal) depending on you tool source. I pre-drill with a small drill bit but not required ( found it is easier to get the screws to start). The rust converter should also be covered with a quality paint as it does not hold up well to UV
i know this is a very old comment of your but if you are still kicking i was wondering how long will it take to let the SYP pressure treated boards dry out completely? at least well enough to install them into the trailer's deck.
thank you.
Should the boards not be turned? The grain should run like a hill, not a valley...when wet, laid down the correct way, water will drop of the sides, instead laying in a valley
Nice video! Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just through-bolt the boards in place instead of worrying about threading them in?
1/4" x 2 "1\2 self drilling screws
torx head are better, they are less likely to strip out the heads during install. 1/8 pilot drill bit!
I replaced mine with stainless steel 1/4-20 bolts and lock nuts 5 yrs ago and they came right out this year with no problem, Stainless is the way to go.
I might also add antiseize on the threads if anything is a happier u in the future
Nice video
That was not a "C" channel at the front end of the trailer; it was an angle with a strap welded to it. The manufacturer must have dropped the boards into place and as a final step welded the strap on to secure them, giving little thought to how the boards would be replaced when they inevitably rotted away. This construction seems typical of flatbed trailers with wood decks, regardless of manufacturer. With a section of the strap cut away, it weakens the frame slightly, although probably not enough to be concerned if the trailer is lightly loaded.
purchased mine from Davids trailer in Orlando,FL and they have a 1"angle bolted over the wood at the front of the trailer that can be removed for easy deck replacement. When buying a trailer this thot maybe something to consider.
those were self tapping screws. You drill a small hole (slightly smaller than the screw) through the wood and metal backing (rail) then screw the self tapping screws in and they will create the threading in the holes in the metal. You will likely make new holes since you cant see the old ones to line up exactly. Basically you dont re-use the old holes. You did get it done though so it all worked out. looks good.. just giving you a some info for future projects. Thanks for the video.
I ground my middle frame holes off and drilled a 1/4" hole close to them and put a stainless steel 1/4-20 bolt to replace them with a lock nut. Stainless steel will last a long time.
You have a trailer inspection for registration? I thought Minnesota was bad. But we dont have that(yet)
This guy really should have look at a fellow Utuber to pick up some tip's' that's what i do before i start a task i have no clue as how to accomplish let alone try to instruct others in some madness.
Good job. I hope my Job of replacing one large piece of plywood is easier.
Why does everybody make decking replacement on trailers so difficult. I have never cut anything on the trailer while doing decking. Bend the boards and they will flex enough to go in. I have been doing trailer repair for 20+ years and never ever cut any trailer to replace wood. Don't be scared of breaking boards, they are stronger than you think.
cppower14 Some people make re-decking a trailer "more difficult than it is" because they don't have any experience re-decking a trailer, let alone 20+ years doing it. If someone does re-deck their own trailer, the method by which they do it doesn't matter. As for myself, making one small cut about middle ways in that piece of flat bar, folding it up just enough to drop the boards in & slide 'em to either side with the last board going in the center, then folding the flat bar back down & weld the cut back up is just as quick & easy as trying to bend them boards & wrestle 'em into place. I'm also certain that there are a lot of things in this world that you'd find very difficult to do. However, there are people that can do those same things quickly & easily because they've been doing 'em for 20+ years. And they'll be doing those things while asking you, "why do YOU make it's so difficult"?
I just replaced my boards and there was a small 1" angle at the front of the trailer that I removed and exposed all the wood. They came right out. Took me less than 10 min to lay in new. Isnt all trailers made that way.
Couldn't you trim them enough to slide in one end then back into the other?
if you dont want to use decking you can oil your boards,one bottle of 10w30 works
No just no, petroleum rots wood
cutting the metal is not the way to go! technically a structural defect then!!! the way to do it is to cut across the boards next to both sides of the screws. and several other places ( look underneath first , don't hit metal! ) with the wood in pieces it will fall out. except were the screws are cut, beat, split with a hammer, chisel or crow bar. when the wood is removed, hit the screws sideways, they will just snap off ! If any issues take a small grinder to it.
with the new wood, measure from the back of the inside of 1 c channel to the shorter side of the other c channel . cut your board a half a sawblade width shorter than that measurement.
place the board on the trailer.
whatever the lenth of the board would be if it were tight, say 1/2" or whatever it is, divide that in half, and slide the board accordingly.
Now it's on the trailer, and inside the metal at both ends!!! say approx. 1/4" from each end.
The weight is bearing on the metal and it can only twist so far at each end ( inside of both channels ) !
when you have the board in final position, just use a 1/8 drill bit and drill a new pilot hole from the top, through the wood and metal, anywhere on the board you want.
preferable 2 at each ends of the boards ( 4 screws total each board ). those type of screws are self drilling and self taping, but that size you should, always drill, a smaller pilot hole first.
drill and a cordless impact with the right bits!
i, think I remember doing this once ? 😁🤠
hope it make sense to you!!!
just remember measure 3 time cut once!!!!
or you will cut it 3 times and it's still short!!!!!!😃
I they cut the angle, an piece of metal longer can be bolted over the cut and then taken to a welder after and welded in place.
Wood bends more easily when wet.