Why would you buy an abused Whaler, top end boat (any boat for that matter) & then mention the hard work involved ? If you go looking for abused deals ? Keep it to yourself, Cheers
The original interior of the Whaler is Gelcoat, which is a pigmented polyester resin that is bonded to the laminate as part of the molding process. Stripping is not required.
Quick way but the cracks will come back later. Should have grind a bigger gaps and tapered them. Then add some chop strain mat to seal, then add the fairing compound.
So what product/procedure would you use for the outside? Like tiny chips or superficial cracks below the water line or ventral hull near the keel where that old school black bottom paint is? Obviously you'd still Dremel out the chips/cracks, but then what product is used there?
you can still use TotalFair below the waterline. You would repair with TotalFair and then prime and paint the area - likely using your choice of bottom paint.
quick answer usually accepted is find what the weight should be and calculate the difference. The difference is water suspended in the foam. The fix is to cut out the textured floor or affected area scoop out the foam, refoam, and reglass. Most replace the floor with a flat surface to avoid contouring. Silicon mats may be used to give a textured floor (think mold). There are many references online including the hull truth.
@@murph914 the soggy whaler foam problem is one of the most exaggerated tales goin. It will not absorb water like a sponge, the pores/bubbles in the foam may rupture (over a long time, flex, exposure to fuel etc) and allow moisture in from a top side crack or screw hole, but the foam itself cannot absorb water. if the boat sits good in the water, then moisture intrusion isn't a problem. if you are that paranoid, then tilt the nose up, drill a few holes low in the bottom at the very end and let it run out over a few years time. yea thats what I thought. You are goin through a lot of needless work in all but the most extreme situations for nothin. people need to stop regurgitatin bs just to sound like they have a clue online. smh
BILL WILLIAMSON i grew up less than a mile from where the company began. I have a ‘59 13’ plus a Harpoon 4.6 and a squall. The water absorption is a major issue. The fact you think it isn’t only demonstrates your ignorance.
@@murph914 then you never learned a thing. that foam cannot "absorb" water, its not that type of material, water can intrude into the voids from collapsed foam but it does NOT go into the foam itself you thick headed yankee.
hello i have a 13 foot Boston whaler like this one that im restoring. my boat has a texturized deck to prevent slipping. will your paint go over the texture and fill in the spaces?
@@TotalBoat I see that TotalBoat makes a "Total Tread" non-skid paint. Can you paint this non-skid over the Wet Edge. If so, does the Total Tread come in Boston Whaler blue?
I’m gonna be generous with my advice here brother. My advice is this - You need an Epoxy Primer to fill in the small cracks. Your gonna need to sand it down with 80 grit on a sander as much as you can until some bare fiberglass spots start showing through. You don’t need to take off all the white surface. Just be sure to go over all of it with the sander. You need to give it a good wash and scrub after, so that the surface is clean and the primer sticks on good. You can also use some alcohol to clean it. Just wipe it thoroughly with an old cloth shirt to wipe off any residue that’s left on the surface... Denatured alcohol is best. You can buy it at your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, Or your local hardware store. I recommend an epoxy primer such as Roberlo PrimaPox, that’s what I used and it works really good, picked it up at my local Auto-Body paint supply store. Awlgrip And Alexseal primers are also really good too, you can find those at the marine supply stores, they cost a bit more and have the same strength. The Total Boat Paint lineup I haven’t tried out yet, but I hear they do make some great products. Your gonna need an Epoxy Primer to seal the crazing or “little fine cracks” you see. Interlux also makes quality epoxy primer as well as Petit Boat paints. I recommend the Roberlo PrimaPox Epoxy Primer, the stuff fills in great and seals your surface off good. Made In Spain by the way, they make very good, high quality automotive paints. Find it at your local Auto-Body Paint Supply Store.
Tons & Tons of cracks ? (Whalers don't get cracked like that, period) This is what you get from someone who is a slammer, or just doesn't realize the Whaler (or any boat) has been left outdoors to rot for maybe decades. Useless & silly question.
U need to remove all the existing gelcoat. Back down to original glass. Then refinish with gelcoat or a painting process (fairing, primer, paint) if you do like the video they will most likely come back. The gelcoat was neglected for to long and needs to be removed entirely
It’s the same constituency as bondo , I don’t recommend using either in large areas , but minor cracks it’s fine. Honestly I used jb weld on some spots and it’s held up perfect. Bondo would just start to crack over time .. the fairing compound is good only if you are doing a small section.. the fairing compound gives you more time to work with it vs bondo only gives you a few seconds , I’ve been fiddling with my 13 whaler all year trying to get every square inch of the hull perfect .. what a nightmare it has been lol
I used weredge on my whaler. Once gasoline touches it you have to clean it up immediately or it seeps into the paint. And it semens to attract a lot of dirt too and started peeling within 6 months.
This is putting a band aid on a broken leg. Boston whalers (BW) are very uniquely built boats. They are all foamed core. The foam does a damn good job at retaining water. When there are holes in a BW, this means that water will get trapped in the foam. There are many ways to get rid of the trapped water. One is by stripping and ridding the whole hull of foal and making all rebuilding with all glass structure. If its not that bad, the best way to get rid of most of the water is to 1. place holes in the lower transom 2. tip the bow up and let it sit for a few weeks 3. check from time to time to make sure the dripping stops. Additionally, 4. In some cases, a pen size hole can also be placed in the bow section to apply pressurized air to slowly push any remaining trapped water out the two transom holes. Note that once water is trapped in the foam, this is a recipe for disaster. The foal will become water logged, infested with mold and eventually detach itself from the glass on the inside of the hull. So my advice is to let e professional do it right or DIY foam strip the gull and convert to all glass hull. Time consuming but always work out well.
Anywhere in the bow works? Do you know if the wood in the transom are usually okay? Mine is from 74 but well taken care of.. Just about to start my restoration! btw thanks for your comment, that helps a lot.
@@seanknipp6006 Most of the BW I’ve seen and worked on have solid transoms. BW use good materials even in the older models. But, usually, you will know when your transom needs attention. Stress cracks will be obvious and transom may have some slight give on it if you rock the motor back and forth. Once those things are not obvious, don't worry. Note that most transoms issues start with water seepage through motor mount bolt holes and drain plugs holes. Use 3M 5200 as a sealer. It is the best hands down. You may have a fight to remove it in the end, but it is worth it. Tip: Keep your boat dry stored after use and you will have less chance of water seepage
Those cracks occur because something is able to flex. If you dont add structure under the areas that are flexing, it’s going to flex again. Those cracks are going to reappear. I had a repair shop for 20 years. We learned to turn those jobs away because they were a losing battle. Always end up with a dissatisfied customer.
(Don't have a clue )---Whalers don't flex to the point of cracking, Are you in your backyard giving advice ? trying to fix a 40 year old lawnmower ? ? Useless & annoying information, Period.
Your an idiot..... It would look just as shitty if not worse if they brushed gelcoat. I've been doing fiberglass, gelcoat and linear urethane paint repair/application for 12+ years and will say everything about this video is trash.
Yeah, gelcoat would be great, but 2 issues. Gelcoat has issues adhering to epoxy based products that are widely used for non pros. Also, to get a good finish gelcoat or awlgrip in general should be sprayed which is something a home gamer can't won't shouldn't do as they will likely not have the right safety gear or gun. This vid is for someone trying to get their boat to look really good on the cheap. So I guess if someone wants a really good job, then research more than watching a 3 minute video? If you want to jump in and redo a boat over a couple weekends this would probably be enough?
That's so wack. I see these vids where people are supposed to be professionals at fixing boats and am like...why would you fix any boat like that. Lol. Like dude...just dont
So this is how you fix crazy.
Restored both 13 and 17 foot Whalers. They came out great but huge amounts of work involved.
Why would you buy an abused Whaler, top end boat (any boat for that matter) & then mention the hard work involved ? If you go looking for abused deals ? Keep it to yourself, Cheers
@@slydawwg The whole idea is to gather the skill sets to restore a very old boat. Just like people restore old classic cars.
Great demo. Looks like high gloss shows imperfections though.
Your video makes this look easy..
very helpful but short. thank you
Id like to know if the paint was removed before the fill in process or did you guys just paint over a surface cleaned by acetone?
The original interior of the Whaler is Gelcoat, which is a pigmented polyester resin that is bonded to the laminate as part of the molding process. Stripping is not required.
Ok someone left acetone laid over on my 15 whaler and it left a huge spot exposing the fiberglass. Any ideas?
Quick way but the cracks will come back later. Should have grind a bigger gaps and tapered them. Then add some chop strain mat to seal, then add the fairing compound.
That's also a great option. This got the job done and years later is still looking great and holding up
@@TotalBoat Yes it will. I order some putty now its one can with mepk. I got poly fairing compound. Your expoxy based putty will not work with gelcoat
So what product/procedure would you use for the outside? Like tiny chips or superficial cracks below the water line or ventral hull near the keel where that old school black bottom paint is? Obviously you'd still Dremel out the chips/cracks, but then what product is used there?
you can still use TotalFair below the waterline. You would repair with TotalFair and then prime and paint the area - likely using your choice of bottom paint.
Should a moisture test be performed first to verify the foam core is not saturated in any areas?
Have you found the answer to this? I am about to restore mine
quick answer usually accepted is find what the weight should be and calculate the difference. The difference is water suspended in the foam. The fix is to cut out the textured floor or affected area scoop out the foam, refoam, and reglass. Most replace the floor with a flat surface to avoid contouring. Silicon mats may be used to give a textured floor (think mold). There are many references online including the hull truth.
@@murph914 the soggy whaler foam problem is one of the most exaggerated tales goin. It will not absorb water like a sponge, the pores/bubbles in the foam may rupture (over a long time, flex, exposure to fuel etc) and allow moisture in from a top side crack or screw hole, but the foam itself cannot absorb water. if the boat sits good in the water, then moisture intrusion isn't a problem. if you are that paranoid, then tilt the nose up, drill a few holes low in the bottom at the very end and let it run out over a few years time. yea thats what I thought. You are goin through a lot of needless work in all but the most extreme situations for nothin. people need to stop regurgitatin bs just to sound like they have a clue online. smh
BILL WILLIAMSON i grew up less than a mile from where the company began. I have a ‘59 13’ plus a Harpoon 4.6 and a squall. The water absorption is a major issue. The fact you think it isn’t only demonstrates your ignorance.
@@murph914 then you never learned a thing. that foam cannot "absorb" water, its not that type of material, water can intrude into the voids from collapsed foam but it does NOT go into the foam itself you thick headed yankee.
How much wet edge was used to paint this boat
hello i have a 13 foot Boston whaler like this one that im restoring. my boat has a texturized deck to prevent slipping. will your paint go over the texture and fill in the spaces?
It will go over the texture and will fill it in a bit - but not entirely. Use a few thin coats if you want to preserve that texture as your non-skid.
@@TotalBoat I see that TotalBoat makes a "Total Tread" non-skid paint. Can you paint this non-skid over the Wet Edge. If so, does the Total Tread come in Boston Whaler blue?
This looks great but my whaler has tons and tons and tons of little cracks all over. Way more than this. I can’t carve out each separate crack, right?
I’m gonna be generous with my advice here brother. My advice is this - You need an Epoxy Primer to fill in the small cracks. Your gonna need to sand it down with 80 grit on a sander as much as you can until some bare fiberglass spots start showing through. You don’t need to take off all the white surface. Just be sure to go over all of it with the sander. You need to give it a good wash and scrub after, so that the surface is clean and the primer sticks on good. You can also use some alcohol to clean it. Just wipe it thoroughly with an old cloth shirt to wipe off any residue that’s left on the surface... Denatured alcohol is best. You can buy it at your local Lowe’s, Home Depot, Or your local hardware store. I recommend an epoxy primer such as Roberlo PrimaPox, that’s what I used and it works really good, picked it up at my local Auto-Body paint supply store. Awlgrip And Alexseal primers are also really good too, you can find those at the marine supply stores, they cost a bit more and have the same strength. The Total Boat Paint lineup I haven’t tried out yet, but I hear they do make some great products. Your gonna need an Epoxy Primer to seal the crazing or “little fine cracks” you see. Interlux also makes quality epoxy primer as well as Petit Boat paints. I recommend the Roberlo PrimaPox Epoxy Primer, the stuff fills in great and seals your surface off good. Made In Spain by the way, they make very good, high quality automotive paints. Find it at your local Auto-Body Paint Supply Store.
@@josefastboats5874 . Thank You for your input Jose!
Tons & Tons of cracks ? (Whalers don't get cracked like that, period) This is what you get from someone who is a slammer, or just doesn't realize the Whaler (or any boat) has been left outdoors to rot for maybe decades. Useless & silly question.
U need to remove all the existing gelcoat. Back down to original glass. Then refinish with gelcoat or a painting process (fairing, primer, paint) if you do like the video they will most likely come back. The gelcoat was neglected for to long and needs to be removed entirely
What is this like a "Bondo type" filler ?
It’s the same constituency as bondo , I don’t recommend using either in large areas , but minor cracks it’s fine. Honestly I used jb weld on some spots and it’s held up perfect. Bondo would just start to crack over time .. the fairing compound is good only if you are doing a small section.. the fairing compound gives you more time to work with it vs bondo only gives you a few seconds , I’ve been fiddling with my 13 whaler all year trying to get every square inch of the hull perfect .. what a nightmare it has been lol
TotalFair Epoxy Fairing Compound. Better than Bondo on the water.
How is it spilling gasoline? And how durable to walk on
I used weredge on my whaler. Once gasoline touches it you have to clean it up immediately or it seeps into the paint. And it semens to attract a lot of dirt too and started peeling within 6 months.
What sand paper grit are you using
For the primer and fairing compound, sand with 80 grit.
Where can I get Totalboat products in Australia? I’d love to use them but can’t seem to get them.
not yet! we're working on world domination. Stand by please! and thanks for asking
@@TotalBoat Oh, come on guys, set-up question, ---& you wonder why some companies or little fix up-shops are not taken seriously.
This is putting a band aid on a broken leg. Boston whalers (BW) are very uniquely built boats. They are all foamed core. The foam does a damn good job at retaining water. When there are holes in a BW, this means that water will get trapped in the foam. There are many ways to get rid of the trapped water. One is by stripping and ridding the whole hull of foal and making all rebuilding with all glass structure. If its not that bad, the best way to get rid of most of the water is to 1. place holes in the lower transom 2. tip the bow up and let it sit for a few weeks 3. check from time to time to make sure the dripping stops. Additionally, 4. In some cases, a pen size hole can also be placed in the bow section to apply pressurized air to slowly push any remaining trapped water out the two transom holes. Note that once water is trapped in the foam, this is a recipe for disaster. The foal will become water logged, infested with mold and eventually detach itself from the glass on the inside of the hull. So my advice is to let e professional do it right or DIY foam strip the gull and convert to all glass hull. Time consuming but always work out well.
Anywhere in the bow works? Do you know if the wood in the transom are usually okay? Mine is from 74 but well taken care of.. Just about to start my restoration! btw thanks for your comment, that helps a lot.
@@seanknipp6006 Most of the BW I’ve seen and worked on have solid transoms. BW use good materials even in the older models. But, usually, you will know when your transom needs attention. Stress cracks will be obvious and transom may have some slight give on it if you rock the motor back and forth. Once those things are not obvious, don't worry. Note that most transoms issues start with water seepage through motor mount bolt holes and drain plugs holes. Use 3M 5200 as a sealer. It is the best hands down. You may have a fight to remove it in the end, but it is worth it. Tip: Keep your boat dry stored after use and you will have less chance of water seepage
a lot of bs and downright bad info on your posts smh
I'm getting ready to restore a 13' BW as well. How much Wet Edge paint did it take to do the topside?
B Cain mine only took 2 quarts
Any Whaler that needs major restoration ? Has been thoroughly abused, as they are almost impossible to compromise.
Done right
we agree. and not hard - but time consuming for sure. Definitely worth it for years and years of fun on the water!
I just got a 20 foot Boston wealer outraged for 500 body is ok. Going to try to copy you lol.
Those cracks occur because something is able to flex. If you dont add structure under the areas that are flexing, it’s going to flex again. Those cracks are going to reappear.
I had a repair shop for 20 years. We learned to turn those jobs away because they were a losing battle. Always end up with a dissatisfied customer.
And we've seen this done time and time again and it works! Better than leaving your boat full of stress cracks. Good luck to you and your customers.
(Don't have a clue )---Whalers don't flex to the point of cracking, Are you in your backyard giving advice ? trying to fix a 40 year old lawnmower ? ? Useless & annoying information, Period.
looks like crap should have restored it with gellcoat to its original condition. Nothing beats doing it right.
Your an idiot..... It would look just as shitty if not worse if they brushed gelcoat. I've been doing fiberglass, gelcoat and linear urethane paint repair/application for 12+ years and will say everything about this video is trash.
Yeah, gelcoat would be great, but 2 issues. Gelcoat has issues adhering to epoxy based products that are widely used for non pros. Also, to get a good finish gelcoat or awlgrip in general should be sprayed which is something a home gamer can't won't shouldn't do as they will likely not have the right safety gear or gun. This vid is for someone trying to get their boat to look really good on the cheap. So I guess if someone wants a really good job, then research more than watching a 3 minute video? If you want to jump in and redo a boat over a couple weekends this would probably be enough?
QUICK AND DIRTY JOB. THIS IS NOT THE WAY TO DO IT.
Lol so how is it done
hardly quick but definitely dirty! This got the job done and years later is still looking great and holding up.
That's so wack. I see these vids where people are supposed to be professionals at fixing boats and am like...why would you fix any boat like that. Lol. Like dude...just dont