if it's for beginners I wish there were more tips though... like, how to use the airbrush (how to control it, how hard to press the trigger etc), how long to wait before masking & how long to wait to REMOVE the masking, etc
@@EAGunpla I would love a video like that, and I think it would help a ton of unsure people, or people without a lot of knowledge get more comfortable with airbrushing. And I think you'd be one of the best to do it too. Out of all of the people I watch online, your models really stand out *because* of how good of a job you do painting your kits. It really is in a league a step above the rest. An example: When you were just priming the shield in this video. I am using an old 1/100 HG Deathscythe for practice and either my primer doesn't go on enough to cover the part, or it's too thick and pools a little. I'm getting better, but then I came on here and watched this, the two things going through my head are, "Wow that's so smooth and looks so clean." and "How do I do that too?"
Good feedback, I am still curious of how to handle an airbrush well after ordered it online. I did my first custom Gunpla with spray paints and it was an abomination, lol
I really love the slow and relaxing pace of the video compared to those other similar channels which almost all of them look and sound the same with those fast paced nippings and runner drops zzz. Please maintain this kind of style and aesthetic.
I actually really appreciate this because it shows you can make a model kit, even a normal sub-$20 HG look very good without having to go all-in on custom scribing, details, or mods. Could this look a lot better with custom panel lines, removed seam lines, and possibly other mods? Yeah of course; but was it necessary? No. And that's what this video shows.
Amazing build! I'm surprised more of the panel line wash didn't get removed. I feel like when I try to clean up lines like that, I end up wiping away too much
You have shown in this video how easy is to introduce yourselve into this hobby. Easy, cheap and with the basics you can make a great custom Gunpla. Congrats for this video, for sure it will make make others to consider to build their first model kit 😊
@xxnike629xx Surprise that you didn't fire shot against Turn A despite your sheer hatred on it 😂😂😂 Good. You should respect something and its followers' support on it despite you not liking it PS How about your thoughts about HGUC Xi Gundam being *NOT* a P-Bandai? huehuehue
Does the mr surfacer 1500 need sanding afterwards or is it good to paint after drying? I really like the sheild. The light purple next to the dark was a nice touch.
does he pre-thin his primer's in the bottles ahead of time so he has it ready whenever. cause the bottles always look more watery then the ones i have.
your custom work looks great, and i think it could be even better if you've painted this model in colors of spinner from "blade runner" 1988, because of memory of Syd Mead, who designed turn A series design
How does that AT 1006 Nipper compared to other expensive nipper like Godhand SPN 120? Does it cut smooth with less force and leave less stress mark? Also, if it is possible, can you try make a comparison and review of your current existing nippers?
awesome and insightful video☺ did u top coat with gloss before u used the panel line accent? been having issues where I top coat with lacquer glossans when I used the panel line accent and remove with enamel thinner its taking away my original paint
I have a tip regarding the use of knife in the gate mark removal to not to pushthe knife but to slide it thrre will be no mark left then and to be patient
Time out! There are some things that need to be discussed. LOL Am I the only one to notice the the goldish orb / jewel thing at the waist? Was that translucent or super-metallic? I also noticed care was taken not to top coat metallic paint (to preserve finish). What type of paint? For a beginner tutorial, this video sure has a lot of advanced mysteries. 😉
This was a great watch and you have my subscribe! I'll try these out for sure! I do have a question: Just got an MG GM Type C and want to paint the visor (or the gray part behind the clear visor) a green like all GMs have, which Citadel paint do you recommend?
I think it has to do with a few things. Assembling the kit first gives you a good idea of where you might need to mask, where paint will rub near the joints, etc. I think it also jas to do with the fact that once you cut the parts off the runners you would see the original unpainted plastic where the nub is and you would damage the paint when trying to remove nub markd and stuff
nak tanya la...sye nk build Hg 00 qant tp xnk paint langsung....kalau lepas buang nub marks tu and da gosok pakai sandpaper...warna pd permukaan yg gosok tu akan beza ke dgn yg x gosok ngn sandpaper?......ada tips sanding x...brapa grit yg sye nak kene pakai?
I believe it is just normal bottle but meant specific for putting gunpla related paints since it has metal ball inside it. You can get them cheap too from online. It is a matter of size. Paints, MR Hobby usually go in 30 ml bottle since their net ml of paint is 10. 50ml bottle for 18 ml paint. 100ml is usually for one finishing surfacer. 200ml for two bottle of finishing surfacer. 250 ml is best for putting excess thinner or tool cleaner for ease of usage when thinning paints and cleaning airbrush respectively. 10 or 20 ml bottle is for mixing paints that you want to use from existing thinned paints. As it is the paints from Mr Hobby and other brands are too concentrated to use as it is on airbrush so it is best to dilute them first in a separate bottle with thinner.
@@paranoidpanzerpenguin5262 Indeed. I agree and won't deny that part. But the bottles EA Gunpla used and what I suggested aren't that different because it is also plastic with similar thickness and the shaking sound was a metal ball hitting a plastic, not a glass. Afterall plastics are cheap. You see, most paints from Mr Hobby come in glass bottle and I even looked online that Mr Hobby Thinners are specificially made less concentrated than just normal lacquer when I was looking for alternatives for lacquer thinner other than Mr Hobby. Also, the thinner has to strike from high pressure at a single point to damage the plastics, which happens if you really focused the thinner in an airbrush or spray gun directly to the surface or if you rub it too strong with a q tip. Also, thinner evaporates or vaporised even in room temperature so you need to have ventilated room if you want to paint, especially with airbrush. So yeah, I agree thinner damages plastic but it needs additional factors and conditions for it to happen like the amount of force we applied to the q tip or brush from our hand, humidity, the surrounding temperature and when using airbrush, it depends on the operating pressure, distance of the parts from the airbrush when painting, and the material composition of the parts we want to paint. Obviously nobody would use lacquer paints and all that on ABS or polycap plastics unless if they want to test if the statement stated by the manual or anyone in the internet was valid or not. If it can happen spontaneously without those factors taken into consideration, I think neither EA gunpla user would post his videos nor Mr Hobby or other gunpla related companies would sell their products carelessly and even export them outside of Japan. I mean, it does take time, research and data to make a product that is usable practically, even with risk. If it has risk, the companies had to put the warning on the labels and what chemicals they used. I am pretty sure material safety data sheet can be obtain for free if you asked those companies through email or their official sites because you got that right but not the exact formula or composition, which are trademark secret.
Most masking tapes are similar. Some are specific to help scribing, making new panel lines better. Otherwise, it does not differ much besides the width of the tape, which tiny ones like 1 to 3 mm are best to cover tiny areas.
When cleaning up your panel lining why doesn’t the solvent thinner affect the paint on the kit ? Never used the Mr Hobby weathering before so assuming 😬 it’s the same base as the paints used on the kit.
That solvent is for enamel paint, it's very weak to lacquer paint, so it can be used to clean panel lines without washing away lacquer paint underneath.
@@Helghast73 the rule of thumb: lacquer>enamel>acrylic. The weaker can be only sprayed on the stronger paint, so you cannot spray lacquer paint on enamel paint.
The golden rule: Thin your paints! Maybe a little thinner than you think it should be but not so much that it beads up. Your first layer should have full even coverage on the part, but the color should be transparent and splotchy. You know you did it right if it looks like garbage. Then put a few more layers on just like that. There's no science to how many, just keep applying layers until you have solid smooth color over the whole part. If you do it right, you'll have a nice silky coat with no brush strokes. Put a matte clear coat on it (I've always used a spray can for that step, I wouldn't try brushing varnish) and no one would even know it's brush painted. Other tips: It should go without saying, but just in case: use primer first (Spray can is fine) I recommend using a wide flat brush, if you can get one, for the base coat as described above. When painting in the small details like eyes and vents, you still want to thin your paints, but not as much as I described above. Painting those small details is pretty similar to tabletop miniature painting, so it might help to check out some beginner level tutorials for Warhammer stuff. Have a wide variety of brush sizes and shapes available. Most kits have a lot of small detail, sharp edges, and large flat panels that you may need to pick out. Don't be afraid to pick up one of those value packs that you always see at craft stores with a dozen brushes. They work better than you might think... Unless you are working with enamel or lacquer, then you might want to do some research first.
You do it manually. He did show a video on how to thin lacquer paints in airbrush. I am not sure how big is that bottle because I used a 200 ml bottle, same purpose but the one with a separate cone cap and 2 mr finishing primer black with mr levelling thinner. To be honest, if you are buying Mr Hobby Mr Colour, you just need to buy only 30 ml bottle since the net ml of mr colour is just 10 ml. If its like mr metallic (from mr hobby) if I am not mistaken has net of 18 ml, so go with 50 ml bottle. Big bottle like 200 or 250 ml is best suited to put paint Thinner or Tool cleaner to avoid excessive spilling when trying to make thin new paint in a new bottle or trying to clean excessive paints in the airbrush. Beginners like me before asked if the paint and thinner of said brands were worth the price since it looks crazily expensive for mere paints and thinners but in practical application when applied with an airbrush, it last longer since you will be able to use the paints on the parts efficiently in the long run than it is with a normal brush, which is best for narrow sections of the parts. Thinning all the paints, each colour in separate bottle ease the use of them in the long run since you can use the paints with both airbrush and normal brush efficiently. Also, don't paint on ABS and/or polycaps plastics, the soft ones because those are joint parts when you move the limbs to make a pose for your display and it will risk breakage and harden them. If you want to panel line or anything, avoid getting those thins on those soft plastics if already assembled or you better off do the individual parts you want to put the line or weathering before assembling. If you want to mix paints, I suggest get the 10 or 20 ml bottles if you are using existing pre-thinned colours instead of mixing two or more unthinned paints in a bottle from scratch because you can control its mixing ratio better. When mixing, preferrably do with the same type of paints, lacquer with lacquer, enamel with enamel, acrylic with acrylic. Because mixing lacquer and enamel is like water and oil, they don't mix well. Don't quote me on the mixing same or different type paint part cause I never tried anything besides Mr Hobby paints to suggest otherwise. But in my opinion, I believe it is best to mix colours using same brand. Also, if you want to make your airbush last longer try watching on how to clean airbrush by Marco Frisoni NJM (If I am not mistaken).
The Finishing Surfacer actually is the primer. He was using two different color primers for different parts. All of the metallic parts got black primer first, then he switched to gray for the other parts. As far as I can tell, all of the parts just got a coat of primer, then a coat of color, some of the panels got masked and painted a different color, then decals and matte varnish to finish.
I repainted my RG Nu But since I don't have an airbrush I just hand painted it I don't have those fancy tools for coloring and stuff Just brushes And Mr Hobby paint
@@jairouribe6523 went pretty well actually, i was proud of it, i used dark colors so it was easy to paint on the dark parts, not so much for the white tho
The end product looks great, I was just confused with the title because it says "Repaint", I waited and waited but you did not REPAINT anything at all.. You only PAINTED the kit... You can't repaint something that wasn't painted to begin with... Still, great work. Love the materials, the effort, the picture quality and the calm music.. Thumbs up!
"Today I will do absolutely no alterations and use only the most basic tools for a beginner friendly viewing experience." PROCEEDS TO PAINT THE DAMN THING WITH AN AIRBRUSH SET THAT IS MORE EXPENSIVE THAN MY CAR.
if it's for beginners I wish there were more tips though... like, how to use the airbrush (how to control it, how hard to press the trigger etc), how long to wait before masking & how long to wait to REMOVE the masking, etc
Hmm thats true!! I will do better next time! Thanks for the feedback! 🙇🏻♂️🙇🏻♂️
i believe he already covered some part of this process that you've mentioned from his old videos. i learned lots of beginner stuff from those.
@@EAGunpla I would love a video like that, and I think it would help a ton of unsure people, or people without a lot of knowledge get more comfortable with airbrushing. And I think you'd be one of the best to do it too. Out of all of the people I watch online, your models really stand out *because* of how good of a job you do painting your kits. It really is in a league a step above the rest.
An example: When you were just priming the shield in this video. I am using an old 1/100 HG Deathscythe for practice and either my primer doesn't go on enough to cover the part, or it's too thick and pools a little. I'm getting better, but then I came on here and watched this, the two things going through my head are, "Wow that's so smooth and looks so clean." and "How do I do that too?"
Good feedback, I am still curious of how to handle an airbrush well after ordered it online. I did my first custom Gunpla with spray paints and it was an abomination, lol
I've been getting back into this hobby and I've been looking at videos and I must say you're one of the most talented painters I've seen on YT
Thank you so much Amrish! I really appreciate it! 🙇🏻♂️
I really love the slow and relaxing pace of the video compared to those other similar channels which almost all of them look and sound the same with those fast paced nippings and runner drops zzz. Please maintain this kind of style and aesthetic.
Just like the turn a anime huh
I actually really appreciate this because it shows you can make a model kit, even a normal sub-$20 HG look very good without having to go all-in on custom scribing, details, or mods. Could this look a lot better with custom panel lines, removed seam lines, and possibly other mods? Yeah of course; but was it necessary? No. And that's what this video shows.
Amazing build! I'm surprised more of the panel line wash didn't get removed. I feel like when I try to clean up lines like that, I end up wiping away too much
You have shown in this video how easy is to introduce yourselve into this hobby. Easy, cheap and with the basics you can make a great custom Gunpla. Congrats for this video, for sure it will make make others to consider to build their first model kit 😊
Now it looks even more like a knight in armor with those colors, great job as always man!
silver with grey ash color surprising came along. kinda nice.
You are the reason I got into customising gunpla. Love the video bro.
The color scheme reminds me of the Gundam G-3, anything looks nice in the G-3 colors (maybe)!
Terbaek la video brade ni semua..#bestofthebest
Could you do a tutorial for people without airbrush by just using paint brush and spray paint can?
PS: Love your works! Keep it up
yeah i agree
Amazing result even with no custom like u usually did. Keren sekali ini 😊👍
Another fantastic build, I really love the colour scheme you chose for this build!
beautiful work - you can see your mastery in the simple tasks
Was there ever a follow up to this? Would love to have more detailed breakdowns. Maybe some comments on color choices
The mass production type , nice !
permainan warna yang cukup menarik..nice detailing work..
Impressive. I like how clean the paint job came out.
@xxnike629xx Surprise that you didn't fire shot against Turn A despite your sheer hatred on it 😂😂😂
Good. You should respect something and its followers' support on it despite you not liking it
PS How about your thoughts about HGUC Xi Gundam being *NOT* a P-Bandai? huehuehue
I was thinking about Turn A yesterday!!!
Beautifully done
Wow this colour theme I love it.like a eclipse to me, nice😍
Mantap bang... the color scheme really nice...👍🏻👍🏻
Aku rasa color ni inspired from Zeta Plus C1.. which is mmg terbaikkk 😄👍
Does the mr surfacer 1500 need sanding afterwards or is it good to paint after drying?
I really like the sheild. The light purple next to the dark was a nice touch.
you made him way better then the original
Very cool color scheme!
does he pre-thin his primer's in the bottles ahead of time so he has it ready whenever. cause the bottles always look more watery then the ones i have.
Nice job man! Love your vids. What psi do you use for priming and then for your paints?
I want to ask, before primer, you have to sand it first, right? what grit do you use??
For repaint job, Is sanding mandatory on all surfaces? or only on the nubs?
since you mentioned the wing ver ka in the beginning, are you planning on painting one of the new wing zero ver ka's?
So beautiful I wish I was this good
Always curious, how long do you want for the primer to dry before putting on the colour paints?
I cannot wait for that Wing Ver. Ka to be finished
Another fantastic work!
The black surfacer 1500 is primer? Or do you add that on top of the grey primer?
your custom work looks great, and i think it could be even better if you've painted this model in colors of spinner from "blade runner" 1988, because of memory of Syd Mead, who designed turn A series design
How does that AT 1006 Nipper compared to other expensive nipper like Godhand SPN 120? Does it cut smooth with less force and leave less stress mark? Also, if it is possible, can you try make a comparison and review of your current existing nippers?
Great video as always! One question - why did you mask the silver elements for top coating? Would it make them less shiny?
Amazing work and tutorial.
awesome and insightful video☺ did u top coat with gloss before u used the panel line accent? been having issues where I top coat with lacquer glossans when I used the panel line accent and remove with enamel thinner its taking away my original paint
Did you paint the polycaps ? i've heard that you shouldn't or else it will crack.
I have a tip regarding the use of knife in the gate mark removal to not to pushthe knife but to slide it thrre will be no mark left then and to be patient
Time out! There are some things that need to be discussed. LOL Am I the only one to notice the the goldish orb / jewel thing at the waist? Was that translucent or super-metallic? I also noticed care was taken not to top coat metallic paint (to preserve finish). What type of paint?
For a beginner tutorial, this video sure has a lot of advanced mysteries. 😉
Awesome job
This was a great watch and you have my subscribe! I'll try these out for sure! I do have a question:
Just got an MG GM Type C and want to paint the visor (or the gray part behind the clear visor) a green like all GMs have, which Citadel paint do you recommend?
Hi EA, what's the color that you used to paint on its eyes?
The Turn A gundam looks so weird but i love it so much
Hey, Thanks for the video, what are the top 5 kit to begin with in your opinion? (cool loooking but not too hard ? )
is this AT nipper good? How is the performance?
Here's a question: why cut the parts out if you could paint the whole kit in one go? Just curious
I think it has to do with a few things. Assembling the kit first gives you a good idea of where you might need to mask, where paint will rub near the joints, etc. I think it also jas to do with the fact that once you cut the parts off the runners you would see the original unpainted plastic where the nub is and you would damage the paint when trying to remove nub markd and stuff
Gunplas are poseable so if you paint it as a whole it might affect the articulation of the kit
If you paint on the runners, when removing nubs you will scratch the paint.
@@Prepmeerkat and even if you don't scratch the paint, the nub marks would still be visible
nak tanya la...sye nk build Hg 00 qant tp xnk paint langsung....kalau lepas buang nub marks tu and da gosok pakai sandpaper...warna pd permukaan yg gosok tu akan beza ke dgn yg x gosok ngn sandpaper?......ada tips sanding x...brapa grit yg sye nak kene pakai?
Where did you find the turn A.,? Here in the philippines I cant find any HG turn A. Its kinda rare kit
My mr weathering color multi black keeps turning into matt black is dat normal or should i just stick with tamiya panel liner
The way you cut the nub mark look so easy
That's Nice.
What type of bottles do you use to hold your Mr Surfacer? The plastic doesn't get damaged at all?
I believe it is just normal bottle but meant specific for putting gunpla related paints since it has metal ball inside it. You can get them cheap too from online. It is a matter of size. Paints, MR Hobby usually go in 30 ml bottle since their net ml of paint is 10. 50ml bottle for 18 ml paint. 100ml is usually for one finishing surfacer. 200ml for two bottle of finishing surfacer. 250 ml is best for putting excess thinner or tool cleaner for ease of usage when thinning paints and cleaning airbrush respectively. 10 or 20 ml bottle is for mixing paints that you want to use from existing thinned paints. As it is the paints from Mr Hobby and other brands are too concentrated to use as it is on airbrush so it is best to dilute them first in a separate bottle with thinner.
@@hiroran9796 Most plastics get damaged by lacquer thinners. Even the good ones are only partially resistant, so not good for long-term use.
@@paranoidpanzerpenguin5262 Indeed. I agree and won't deny that part. But the bottles EA Gunpla used and what I suggested aren't that different because it is also plastic with similar thickness and the shaking sound was a metal ball hitting a plastic, not a glass. Afterall plastics are cheap. You see, most paints from Mr Hobby come in glass bottle and I even looked online that Mr Hobby Thinners are specificially made less concentrated than just normal lacquer when I was looking for alternatives for lacquer thinner other than Mr Hobby. Also, the thinner has to strike from high pressure at a single point to damage the plastics, which happens if you really focused the thinner in an airbrush or spray gun directly to the surface or if you rub it too strong with a q tip. Also, thinner evaporates or vaporised even in room temperature so you need to have ventilated room if you want to paint, especially with airbrush. So yeah, I agree thinner damages plastic but it needs additional factors and conditions for it to happen like the amount of force we applied to the q tip or brush from our hand, humidity, the surrounding temperature and when using airbrush, it depends on the operating pressure, distance of the parts from the airbrush when painting, and the material composition of the parts we want to paint. Obviously nobody would use lacquer paints and all that on ABS or polycap plastics unless if they want to test if the statement stated by the manual or anyone in the internet was valid or not. If it can happen spontaneously without those factors taken into consideration, I think neither EA gunpla user would post his videos nor Mr Hobby or other gunpla related companies would sell their products carelessly and even export them outside of Japan. I mean, it does take time, research and data to make a product that is usable practically, even with risk. If it has risk, the companies had to put the warning on the labels and what chemicals they used. I am pretty sure material safety data sheet can be obtain for free if you asked those companies through email or their official sites because you got that right but not the exact formula or composition, which are trademark secret.
What kind of tape do you use? Also is there a difference if we use a normal masking tape from hardware shops?
Most masking tapes are similar. Some are specific to help scribing, making new panel lines better. Otherwise, it does not differ much besides the width of the tape, which tiny ones like 1 to 3 mm are best to cover tiny areas.
When cleaning up your panel lining why doesn’t the solvent thinner affect the paint on the kit ? Never used the Mr Hobby weathering before so assuming 😬 it’s the same base as the paints used on the kit.
That solvent is for enamel paint, it's very weak to lacquer paint, so it can be used to clean panel lines without washing away lacquer paint underneath.
@@dykatran Thanks, it becomes a juggling act at times with what affects what 😂
@@Helghast73 the rule of thumb: lacquer>enamel>acrylic. The weaker can be only sprayed on the stronger paint, so you cannot spray lacquer paint on enamel paint.
Do you sand or wash those parts before painting? If u do sand those parts, how do you sand all of the part's angle and not sand it's scribe detail?
Angle and curvy parts are best sand with sponge type sandpaper.
Any tips for hand painting with just a brush? Airbrush can be pretty expensive
The golden rule: Thin your paints! Maybe a little thinner than you think it should be but not so much that it beads up. Your first layer should have full even coverage on the part, but the color should be transparent and splotchy. You know you did it right if it looks like garbage. Then put a few more layers on just like that. There's no science to how many, just keep applying layers until you have solid smooth color over the whole part. If you do it right, you'll have a nice silky coat with no brush strokes. Put a matte clear coat on it (I've always used a spray can for that step, I wouldn't try brushing varnish) and no one would even know it's brush painted.
Other tips:
It should go without saying, but just in case: use primer first (Spray can is fine)
I recommend using a wide flat brush, if you can get one, for the base coat as described above.
When painting in the small details like eyes and vents, you still want to thin your paints, but not as much as I described above. Painting those small details is pretty similar to tabletop miniature painting, so it might help to check out some beginner level tutorials for Warhammer stuff.
Have a wide variety of brush sizes and shapes available. Most kits have a lot of small detail, sharp edges, and large flat panels that you may need to pick out. Don't be afraid to pick up one of those value packs that you always see at craft stores with a dozen brushes. They work better than you might think... Unless you are working with enamel or lacquer, then you might want to do some research first.
@@ASpooneyBard Thanks for the tips!
Always wonder where one can buy such a big bottle of the black primer o.O also looks pre thinned
yep that's pre-thinned primer, I prepare primers like that too.
You do it manually. He did show a video on how to thin lacquer paints in airbrush. I am not sure how big is that bottle because I used a 200 ml bottle, same purpose but the one with a separate cone cap and 2 mr finishing primer black with mr levelling thinner.
To be honest, if you are buying Mr Hobby Mr Colour, you just need to buy only 30 ml bottle since the net ml of mr colour is just 10 ml. If its like mr metallic (from mr hobby) if I am not mistaken has net of 18 ml, so go with 50 ml bottle. Big bottle like 200 or 250 ml is best suited to put paint Thinner or Tool cleaner to avoid excessive spilling when trying to make thin new paint in a new bottle or trying to clean excessive paints in the airbrush. Beginners like me before asked if the paint and thinner of said brands were worth the price since it looks crazily expensive for mere paints and thinners but in practical application when applied with an airbrush, it last longer since you will be able to use the paints on the parts efficiently in the long run than it is with a normal brush, which is best for narrow sections of the parts. Thinning all the paints, each colour in separate bottle ease the use of them in the long run since you can use the paints with both airbrush and normal brush efficiently. Also, don't paint on ABS and/or polycaps plastics, the soft ones because those are joint parts when you move the limbs to make a pose for your display and it will risk breakage and harden them. If you want to panel line or anything, avoid getting those thins on those soft plastics if already assembled or you better off do the individual parts you want to put the line or weathering before assembling.
If you want to mix paints, I suggest get the 10 or 20 ml bottles if you are using existing pre-thinned colours instead of mixing two or more unthinned paints in a bottle from scratch because you can control its mixing ratio better.
When mixing, preferrably do with the same type of paints, lacquer with lacquer, enamel with enamel, acrylic with acrylic. Because mixing lacquer and enamel is like water and oil, they don't mix well. Don't quote me on the mixing same or different type paint part cause I never tried anything besides Mr Hobby paints to suggest otherwise. But in my opinion, I believe it is best to mix colours using same brand.
Also, if you want to make your airbush last longer try watching on how to clean airbrush by Marco Frisoni NJM (If I am not mistaken).
Where do you get your decals?
Hello, one question, how do you avoid or eliminate scratched with the sandpaper or the paint just hides it?
very good!
cant wait
hope I win
Can you explain the purpose of each level of paint? I got lost at finishing surfacer after the primer.
The Finishing Surfacer actually is the primer. He was using two different color primers for different parts. All of the metallic parts got black primer first, then he switched to gray for the other parts. As far as I can tell, all of the parts just got a coat of primer, then a coat of color, some of the panels got masked and painted a different color, then decals and matte varnish to finish.
I really appreciate u man😁
I repainted my RG Nu
But since I don't have an airbrush
I just hand painted it
I don't have those fancy tools for coloring and stuff
Just brushes
And Mr Hobby paint
How did come out? Thought of doing this too.
@@jairouribe6523 went pretty well actually, i was proud of it, i used dark colors so it was easy to paint on the dark parts, not so much for the white tho
@@justandrew6431 nice!!
Could you custom paint Hgbf Crossbone gundam maoh?
Bole tau tak mana nak dpt display pusing² tu? 😁
The end product looks great, I was just confused with the title because it says "Repaint", I waited and waited but you did not REPAINT anything at all.. You only PAINTED the kit... You can't repaint something that wasn't painted to begin with... Still, great work. Love the materials, the effort, the picture quality and the calm music.. Thumbs up!
Hi Ezzat, I wish you can adjust a different angle when you paint. It is dark and your hand is blocking the view. Thank you
All that sponsors :D Share one or two la brother ...
next video.pls make gunpla life hacks,
As lovely as your build, paint process and vid but I'm a bit tired seeing dark color scheme, the Hyaku Shiki's color is a breathe of fresh air.
i think maybe you can make acc tiktok for short ver vid you gunpla that way you can growth faster :))))
Are you malaysian?
Cool
baekkk der👍
Turn AG3 Gundam
if only i had an airbrush, im stuck with cheap rattle cans
Turn-A G3 Gundam
👍
stay home and keep pasang gundam, bahaya keluar bang
btul tu.
Why dose the back of this Gundam legs look like Swiss Army knife 12:31
Moustache Gundam!!!
G 3 turn a
One of the few things I have trouble is scribbling
Practice makes perfect! 😁
It has a beard like edward newgate (shirohige)
First Gundam aku Turn A ni, beli tahun 2003 tak silap. Re-release gundam hodoh ni 🤣
lawa bro
I hope i win a raser
The mothafuckin COCKpit! And damn those color are simple but good. BTW which one you prefer, flat coat or gloss coat?
Turn B Gundam
"Today I will do absolutely no alterations and use only the most basic tools for a beginner friendly viewing experience."
PROCEEDS TO PAINT THE DAMN THING WITH AN AIRBRUSH SET THAT IS MORE EXPENSIVE THAN MY CAR.
His airbrushes are Made in Taiwan models, they're not that expensive. Even the German Harder & Steenbeck airbrush is not as expensive as a car.
@@dykatran I drive a shitty car.
@Some characters aren't allowed GuNpLa iS fReEdOoOoOmMm
I'm the 420 like 👍
It’s almost like he’s trying to paint gunpla that were recently reviewed by mecha
G-3 TURN A😅