Thanks for your videos it was a real help installing a JL amp and sub in my '11 SCrew. Probably the biggest pain was figuring out how to get the back seat down, then obviously punching through the damn firewall! Saved me hours of grief!
Thank you for showing the opening used to run the power through the firewall! That is exactly what I was looking for and will save me from drilling holes.
this video was an excellent tutorial. I took the antenna off my junk xl7 when I went through the hole in the firewall, I came in from right to left, it took less than a minute. thanks for the video, it took all the pain out of mine I felt bad for procrastinating so long. good job.
Thank You!! I have an 07 Expedition, and was having a tough time trying to push through the grommets. I tried that same grommet before, but couldn't get my wires through, or see them, but your video and example reassured me I was on the right path. I successfully ran my wires through there, and my system sounds great, thanks for the help!!
Sir, I recommend you disconnect the negative battery terminal when fishing wire through your truck. This is to prevent shorting or grounding wires due to possible damage while installing your system. I would hate to hear/see a nice truck like yours have electrical problems or worse...catch fire. Again, thanks for sharing.
Regarding the PAC audio adapter Jordan mentioned earlier. For the Ford F-150 it's the AOEM-FRD24. Adds low-level RCA adapters to your Ford factory head-unit so you don't have to cut wires or use high-level. It also gives you a remote turn-on for the amp which is nice.
I just got my Audio Control LC7i in the mail today, I never even thought to look for a Ford Factory adapter already ordered one Thank you! Reid Earls!!
Having no main fuse at the battery for the power wire is a big no no. If you get a short anywhere on that wire, since it runs by many steel parts/bolts/screws, you could potentially set your car on fire, even have a battery explosion. Wire this thick, 8 gauge or thicker will not burn thru, but will keep conducting current to catastrophic results. Always have fused power wire, the closer the better to the positive side of battery for safety.
@FallenTAL now im not sure if its a bad idea, 1 reason being, the remote wire was on that side of the amplifier, so it was easier to wire those 3 on one side of the truck(power, ground, remote). and the 2nd reason was to possibly eliminate any noise that would be produced by the remote wire, if i ran it with the speaker wires on the other side of the truck since it has 12volts running through it I wanted to remove any chance of getting speaker "noise"
@TheSunlitedrummer Sounds like something else is wrong to me, I'm not a professional though. It pops the fuse for a sec? either the fuse pops or it doesnt is what I thought lol. Don't put a bigger fuse in there than what is required. Why don't you hook up the remote wire behind the head unit like everything else? But The remote wire only sends a 12volt signal to the amplifier to turn the Amp ON. So its something else.
Man, you're videos are some of the best I've found on the net. There's only one thing I'm having trouble with. That freakin bolt. How in the hell did you get that and the washer threaded through the back? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@sikadelicTD Its a good idea, BUT. the carpet is so thick, its like 1/2" to 3/4" thick insulation carpet. When I cut that out of the way, mounted 1/2" MDF flush with the body of the truck, and I had to carefully select the amp location. IT BARELY fit, and the amp is like 2-1/4" thick, so you either need a really thin amplifier, Or you wont be able to fold your seats UP all the way. They can stay in the DOWN position no problem. So depends if you care about that or not?
I had the same problem mate, but I may be wrong. The problem is, the remote wire has to be on the remote wire from your head deck, no where else. And your power wire straight from the battery itself...dunno if this helped or not, but if the fuse is popping on the stereo, upgrade it to a 20amp fuse. Everything is working fine for me.
David Peter actually remote can be used from anything that turns on after you turn your key. such as an ignition or accessory wire, or you could tap into a fuse that turns on with the key as well. get a multimeter and test wires that turn when you turn the key. the object is just to get it to turn on and shut off the same time as your head unit and not staying on all the time
David Peter just realized how old this video and comment was lol sorry. but i actually had to fuse tap an accessory wire for some dude that hardwired a flip out dvd player in his 07 trailblazer because gm does not include a 12v+ ignition switched through the factory harness. what made it worse is the fuse box was under the rear seat. stupid gm lol
@Brandonstreater From the head unit for Front and Rear Channels I have (2) Two separate "RCA to Speaker Wire Converter Cables" Made by "Kicker". I bought them at Best Buy. And each converter converts the Front Right and Left, and the Rear Right and left into (4) Four RCA Connections. Which would be FRONT RIGHT, FRONT LEFT, and REAR RIGHT, REAR LEFT. Hopefully that answered what your question was
What about using a big ass piece of Velcro to mount the amp to the carpet? I know it sounds simple, but it may work. I have the same truck and will be beginning this project next week.
@macaboo i meant the amp switches to protect then the cars stock head unit turns off and then back on... the subs are dual voice coil and specified to 4 ohm and 340 rms each but i conected red to red and black to black on each sub so it should be series, i was told to do this but im thinking ill jjust run them at 4 ohms each or maybe get a capacitor
@ROBTUCSON Heyy Um so if you just want to add an amp for a sub I think there is a harness called Add a sub or something. But not sure 100%. If you're adding a high low converter, you must be planning on amplifying the speakers. There is a harness that you need made by PAC-Audio. It will add 4 Channels RCA plus a remote wire. I did alot of reading on F150 forums before attempting this installation.
Great video. Question though, How can you tell on the multimeter if a bolt is a good ground? I also though it is bad news to run the power wire and remote wire parallel to each other that close?
Cool video. But one thing I noticed is your power wire did not have a fuse on it. I hope you put one on. Protect your equipment man. That stuff is expensive.
@TheSunlitedrummer If you run them in parallel you can probably operate them better off of your amplifier. But what are the stats of your amp? or what Amp do you have and I will take a look at it. I couldnt find a series load calculator, but it seems like 3 subs connected in series with 4 ohms impedance per subwoofer you will have 12ohms of impedance across 3 speakers. Its probably best to wire the COILS in series, and the subwoofers in Parallel.
@FallenTAL Thanks for watching! Um well you attach or touch one probe on the multimeter to the ground on the battery, and the other probe will touch something you think is a good ground. Since the battery is grounded at that terminal, if you see any reading on the multimeter(needle moves) then you have a good ground. Im sorry im not sure what setting the multimeter was on, like what voltage it was reading.
How do you like that amp? Did your kicker wiring kit come with 60 ft of speaker cable? Ive got the same truck and im doing the same thing. Im looking at the ID subs and JL speakers though. Is sub box holding up? Sorry for all the questions buddy!
Hey thanks for the vid its been a great help. I am wanting to add amp for a sub not for door speakers. I want to keep oem deck. Add high low converter. do you know what wire on the harness I would use for the amp remote? our would you know of a harness for just adding rca's.
i ran my remote wire to the fuse box on the stereo fuse ... but when i turn up my subs it pops the fuse for a sec ... im running 3 12s at 1.33 ohms ( in series ) 1200 rms. do i need a bugger fuse?
I just got done installing an amp and 2 components. I decided to run the remote off the rear outlet behind the seat that is meant for a electric window. But i have bad road noise when i start the truck. I ran both remote/ power on one side and spkr/ rca's on the other. I used 2 stinger loc's and the factory deck. Any suggestions to get rid of the noise?
jeff abare yes the rcas and the power need to be ran on opposite sides of the car or it will create interference and cause major distortion. you probably realized this now but commenting for future people that read this. good luck!
Are you using your factory head unit? Or aftermarket? If it is factory you will have to run the remote wire to your fuse box and tap a fuse that turns on with your ignition or use the radio's fuse. If it an aftermarket radio you there should be a Blue wire with a White strand on it which indicates your remote turn-on wire for your Amp.
Whats the stats of your Subwoofers? 300wattRMS @ 2ohms? or.. And the stats of your amplifier. Amplifier Output = Amplifier Watts x (Amplifier Rated at Ohms / Speaker Chain Ohms) Running at 1.33ohms can be dangerous, operating below 2ohms could fry your amplifier.. from what I've heard. Again - im not a professional so dont anybody start trolling my comments lol.
Thanks for your videos it was a real help installing a JL amp and sub in my '11 SCrew. Probably the biggest pain was figuring out how to get the back seat down, then obviously punching through the damn firewall! Saved me hours of grief!
Thank you for showing the opening used to run the power through the firewall! That is exactly what I was looking for and will save me from drilling holes.
this video was an excellent tutorial. I took the antenna off my junk xl7 when I went through the hole in the firewall, I came in from right to left, it took less than a minute. thanks for the video, it took all the pain out of mine I felt bad for procrastinating so long. good job.
Thank You!! I have an 07 Expedition, and was having a tough time trying to push through the grommets. I tried that same grommet before, but couldn't get my wires through, or see them, but your video and example reassured me I was on the right path. I successfully ran my wires through there, and my system sounds great, thanks for the help!!
Thanks, man. Very helpful. Love my friendly Canadian neighbors - growing up in Detroit I spend a lot of time in Windsor when I was 19 :)
Nice video. I spent like two hours trying to find where to feed the power wire from the battery.
Sir, I recommend you disconnect the negative battery terminal when fishing wire through your truck. This is to prevent shorting or grounding wires due to possible damage while installing your system. I would hate to hear/see a nice truck like yours have electrical problems or worse...catch fire. Again, thanks for sharing.
Regarding the PAC audio adapter Jordan mentioned earlier. For the Ford F-150 it's the AOEM-FRD24. Adds low-level RCA adapters to your Ford factory head-unit so you don't have to cut wires or use high-level. It also gives you a remote turn-on for the amp which is nice.
I just got my Audio Control LC7i in the mail today, I never even thought to look for a Ford Factory adapter already ordered one Thank you! Reid Earls!!
Thanks for the great video and showing so much :) good job m8te!
Having no main fuse at the battery for the power wire is a big no no. If you get a short anywhere on that wire, since it runs by many steel parts/bolts/screws, you could potentially set your car on fire, even have a battery explosion. Wire this thick, 8 gauge or thicker will not burn thru, but will keep conducting current to catastrophic results.
Always have fused power wire, the closer the better to the positive side of battery for safety.
L0
0ll
Sweet video, nice work
@FallenTAL now im not sure if its a bad idea, 1 reason being, the remote wire was on that side of the amplifier, so it was easier to wire those 3 on one side of the truck(power, ground, remote). and the 2nd reason was to possibly eliminate any noise that would be produced by the remote wire, if i ran it with the speaker wires on the other side of the truck since it has 12volts running through it I wanted to remove any chance of getting speaker "noise"
Thanks for sharing. Very inspiring...gives me ideas. Funny stuff...wood, nut, rod...
@TheSunlitedrummer Sounds like something else is wrong to me, I'm not a professional though. It pops the fuse for a sec? either the fuse pops or it doesnt is what I thought lol. Don't put a bigger fuse in there than what is required. Why don't you hook up the remote wire behind the head unit like everything else? But The remote wire only sends a 12volt signal to the amplifier to turn the Amp ON. So its something else.
Man, you're videos are some of the best I've found on the net. There's only one thing I'm having trouble with. That freakin bolt. How in the hell did you get that and the washer threaded through the back? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
@sikadelicTD Its a good idea, BUT. the carpet is so thick, its like 1/2" to 3/4" thick insulation carpet. When I cut that out of the way, mounted 1/2" MDF flush with the body of the truck, and I had to carefully select the amp location. IT BARELY fit, and the amp is like 2-1/4" thick, so you either need a really thin amplifier, Or you wont be able to fold your seats UP all the way. They can stay in the DOWN position no problem. So depends if you care about that or not?
@macaboo the amp is the hifonics 1200.1d
I had the same problem mate, but I may be wrong. The problem is, the remote wire has to be on the remote wire from your head deck, no where else. And your power wire straight from the battery itself...dunno if this helped or not, but if the fuse is popping on the stereo, upgrade it to a 20amp fuse. Everything is working fine for me.
David Peter actually remote can be used from anything that turns on after you turn your key. such as an ignition or accessory wire, or you could tap into a fuse that turns on with the key as well. get a multimeter and test wires that turn when you turn the key. the object is just to get it to turn on and shut off the same time as your head unit and not staying on all the time
David Peter just realized how old this video and comment was lol sorry. but i actually had to fuse tap an accessory wire for some dude that hardwired a flip out dvd player in his 07 trailblazer because gm does not include a 12v+ ignition switched through the factory harness. what made it worse is the fuse box was under the rear seat. stupid gm lol
@Brandonstreater From the head unit for Front and Rear Channels I have (2) Two separate "RCA to Speaker Wire Converter Cables" Made by "Kicker". I bought them at Best Buy. And each converter converts the Front Right and Left, and the Rear Right and left into (4) Four RCA Connections. Which would be FRONT RIGHT, FRONT LEFT, and REAR RIGHT, REAR LEFT. Hopefully that answered what your question was
What about using a big ass piece of Velcro to mount the amp to the carpet? I know it sounds simple, but it may work. I have the same truck and will be beginning this project next week.
@macaboo i meant the amp switches to protect then the cars stock head unit turns off and then back on... the subs are dual voice coil and specified to 4 ohm and 340 rms each but i conected red to red and black to black on each sub so it should be series, i was told to do this but im thinking ill jjust run them at 4 ohms each or maybe get a capacitor
I just grounded to the seat bolt, scraped the paint and bolted it down.
Great info. I was wondering if I could do that. Glad to hear it works.
@ROBTUCSON Heyy Um so if you just want to add an amp for a sub I think there is a harness called Add a sub or something. But not sure 100%. If you're adding a high low converter, you must be planning on amplifying the speakers. There is a harness that you need made by PAC-Audio. It will add 4 Channels RCA plus a remote wire. I did alot of reading on F150 forums before attempting this installation.
Great video. Question though, How can you tell on the multimeter if a bolt is a good ground? I also though it is bad news to run the power wire and remote wire parallel to each other that close?
Cool video. But one thing I noticed is your power wire did not have a fuse on it. I hope you put one on. Protect your equipment man. That stuff is expensive.
@TheSunlitedrummer If you run them in parallel you can probably operate them better off of your amplifier. But what are the stats of your amp? or what Amp do you have and I will take a look at it. I couldnt find a series load calculator, but it seems like 3 subs connected in series with 4 ohms impedance per subwoofer you will have 12ohms of impedance across 3 speakers. Its probably best to wire the COILS in series, and the subwoofers in Parallel.
@FallenTAL Thanks for watching! Um well you attach or touch one probe on the multimeter to the ground on the battery, and the other probe will touch something you think is a good ground. Since the battery is grounded at that terminal, if you see any reading on the multimeter(needle moves) then you have a good ground. Im sorry im not sure what setting the multimeter was on, like what voltage it was reading.
how do you get the back seats to fold down out of the way? Not the lower portions folding up...but the back part folding down. Thanks, great video.
Trey Coursey it's been a year you probably already know
How do you like that amp? Did your kicker wiring kit come with 60 ft of speaker cable? Ive got the same truck and im doing the same thing. Im looking at the ID subs and JL speakers though. Is sub box holding up? Sorry for all the questions buddy!
Yeah the weather has been shit. So I have installed and filmed the second half this week. Just have to put it together into a video :)
Hey thanks for the vid its been a great help. I am wanting to add amp for a sub not for door speakers. I want to keep oem deck. Add high low converter. do you know what wire on the harness I would use for the amp remote? our would you know of a harness for just adding rca's.
Bro, how did you get the seat down? Mine is bolted to the back wall. I can't get the seat out.
if its just for you remote its not drawing anything it just recognizes 12v
how did you get the fish snaked through, I have had no luck getting it throug there
i ran my remote wire to the fuse box on the stereo fuse ... but when i turn up my subs it pops the fuse for a sec ... im running 3 12s at 1.33 ohms ( in series ) 1200 rms. do i need a bugger fuse?
Were there any problems with the factory sync and blue tooth
I just got done installing an amp and 2 components. I decided to run the remote off the rear outlet behind the seat that is meant for a electric window. But i have bad road noise when i start the truck. I ran both remote/ power on one side and spkr/ rca's on the other. I used 2 stinger loc's and the factory deck. Any suggestions to get rid of the noise?
jeff abare yes the rcas and the power need to be ran on opposite sides of the car or it will create interference and cause major distortion. you probably realized this now but commenting for future people that read this. good luck!
i'm trying to figure which wire to use as the remote wire any advice
How do I plug the amp into the head unit? I have everything hooked up except the RCA cable
Are you able to email the link to all the products you used to wire the amp to your factory radio
Ceciljr788@gmail.com is my email
Part 2?
How did you get the threaded rod mounted?
Dude I have done everything, but CANNOT find where to connect the Remote Power for the amp!!!
Are you using your factory head unit? Or aftermarket? If it is factory you will have to run the remote wire to your fuse box and tap a fuse that turns on with your ignition or use the radio's fuse. If it an aftermarket radio you there should be a Blue wire with a White strand on it which indicates your remote turn-on wire for your Amp.
Thank you I got it working that way with my factory head unit!
Nice! Sorry I couldn't help sooner..
For what it's worth fuse 41 in the passenger side kick panel goes on and off with the vehicle.
@TheSunlitedrummer meant 380 rms hah
Whats the stats of your Subwoofers? 300wattRMS @ 2ohms? or.. And the stats of your amplifier. Amplifier Output = Amplifier Watts x (Amplifier Rated at Ohms / Speaker Chain Ohms) Running at 1.33ohms can be dangerous, operating below 2ohms could fry your amplifier.. from what I've heard. Again - im not a professional so dont anybody start trolling my comments lol.
Studs, not rods.
@TheSunlitedrummer Hey, check your inbox I sent you a message.