Great episode again, and I especially enjoying the renovation of the window slide mechanism. I suspect your findings in there are often the main reason for our side windows being slow to close, and I am now inspired to renovate mine.. Regarding the door cable harness, for sure there is a plug somewhere but clearly not as accessible as the 924..
So, I work in the Parts side of the automotive industry and one of my favorite things in automotives is nomenclature. I have to tell you that your name of "Window Mustache" is far better than what we call it in North America, to us its a "Belt Moulding".
Looking good so far. Have a couple thoughts. I saw you bought a Porsche battery so you could have the Porsche showing but - there is a cover that snaps on top of the battery. Most cars seem to be missing it but it is very reasonable from Porsche and makes the area look cleaner. Are you going to keep the top as a manual top? A lot of people, including me (1991 944 turbo cab), keep it manual. If the top goes out of sync it will snap the "B" pillar. That piece is $700+ used in the US. Plus if your relays are bad...the main relay is $500+. If you keep it auto in addition to releasing the two latches you have to push the top open a couple of inches before engaging the switch. It is nice to see the improvements Porsche made to the trunk and hood in the 968 over the 944 in that they provide emergency release cables. When I got mine the trunk would not open. Getting it open was not fun! I fit (with a lot of modification, I have never seen something so stupid in my life) the 968 emergency trunk release to my trunk. Now from watching your video I know they also have an emergency release for the hood - will have to investigate how to fit it to the 944. I have new cables for it but worry if the cable slips the only way to open the hood will be to cut a hole in the hood. Have you considered recovering door panels? That is a future project of mine. I want to do alcantara on top and Pasha for the rest. I hate to say this next part but have you considered replacing the entire wiring harness? The engine harness is probably shot just from age. The insulation on the wires crumble and the wires short out. This usually happens under the boot where you cant see it (think of what happened to your alternator harness at the white connector). Debugging my car after the rebuild was a hassle because of wiring issues. Ended up replacing entire engine harness. I used to work in a new car dealership and we would get customer cars in that had been flooded. These cars worked good for two or three years then a bunch of electrical gremlins would start showing up. The water gets under the insulation and rots out the wire after a couple of years. The body harnesses are probably fairly cheep used since there is not a lot of demand for them as they seem to hold up reasonably well (only issue I had was going to the headlights), ask your buddy.
Thanks for all of your input David, much appreciated! I have a cover on my 924's but was unaware that these exist for the 968, I will look into that. I am planning and fully restoring the top as I was functioning before it went for a swim, but that is not my top priority. I am not too worried about the wiring harnesses, simply because it has already been 18 months since the disaster and am yet to discover an oxidation on the plugs, this might come to haunt me over time, but I think it will be fine. Mostly when flood damaged cars start acting up it is because there was moisture trapped in plugs and computers that were no addressed, this is why I am being so meticulous about u plugging everything and checking all electrical motors.
Jon, there are panels available from multiple breakers in the USA. If I remember correctly, there is a large plug for the door harness about a foot or so into the interior of the car. For testing, wouldn't it be a good idea to hook up the regulator outside of the door shell before reinstalling?
Thanks Jeff, if you could share the details of a breaker that has a set I would greatly appreciate it! I'll go have a loof for those plugs again because I want to make sure they are clean, I might already have cleaned them unwittingly, but good to be sure.
Great episode again, and I especially enjoying the renovation of the window slide mechanism. I suspect your findings in there are often the main reason for our side windows being slow to close, and I am now inspired to renovate mine..
Regarding the door cable harness, for sure there is a plug somewhere but clearly not as accessible as the 924..
So, I work in the Parts side of the automotive industry and one of my favorite things in automotives is nomenclature. I have to tell you that your name of "Window Mustache" is far better than what we call it in North America, to us its a "Belt Moulding".
Haha, I'm glad I could provide you with another term for your collection 😁
Looking good so far. Have a couple thoughts. I saw you bought a Porsche battery so you could have the Porsche showing but - there is a cover that snaps on top of the battery. Most cars seem to be missing it but it is very reasonable from Porsche and makes the area look cleaner.
Are you going to keep the top as a manual top? A lot of people, including me (1991 944 turbo cab), keep it manual. If the top goes out of sync it will snap the "B" pillar. That piece is $700+ used in the US. Plus if your relays are bad...the main relay is $500+. If you keep it auto in addition to releasing the two latches you have to push the top open a couple of inches before engaging the switch.
It is nice to see the improvements Porsche made to the trunk and hood in the 968 over the 944 in that they provide emergency release cables. When I got mine the trunk would not open. Getting it open was not fun! I fit (with a lot of modification, I have never seen something so stupid in my life) the 968 emergency trunk release to my trunk. Now from watching your video I know they also have an emergency release for the hood - will have to investigate how to fit it to the 944. I have new cables for it but worry if the cable slips the only way to open the hood will be to cut a hole in the hood.
Have you considered recovering door panels? That is a future project of mine. I want to do alcantara on top and Pasha for the rest.
I hate to say this next part but have you considered replacing the entire wiring harness? The engine harness is probably shot just from age. The insulation on the wires crumble and the wires short out. This usually happens under the boot where you cant see it (think of what happened to your alternator harness at the white connector). Debugging my car after the rebuild was a hassle because of wiring issues. Ended up replacing entire engine harness. I used to work in a new car dealership and we would get customer cars in that had been flooded. These cars worked good for two or three years then a bunch of electrical gremlins would start showing up. The water gets under the insulation and rots out the wire after a couple of years. The body harnesses are probably fairly cheep used since there is not a lot of demand for them as they seem to hold up reasonably well (only issue I had was going to the headlights), ask your buddy.
Thanks for all of your input David, much appreciated! I have a cover on my 924's but was unaware that these exist for the 968, I will look into that. I am planning and fully restoring the top as I was functioning before it went for a swim, but that is not my top priority. I am not too worried about the wiring harnesses, simply because it has already been 18 months since the disaster and am yet to discover an oxidation on the plugs, this might come to haunt me over time, but I think it will be fine. Mostly when flood damaged cars start acting up it is because there was moisture trapped in plugs and computers that were no addressed, this is why I am being so meticulous about u plugging everything and checking all electrical motors.
❤
Jon, there are panels available from multiple breakers in the USA. If I remember correctly, there is a large plug for the door harness about a foot or so into the interior of the car. For testing, wouldn't it be a good idea to hook up the regulator outside of the door shell before reinstalling?
Thanks Jeff, if you could share the details of a breaker that has a set I would greatly appreciate it! I'll go have a loof for those plugs again because I want to make sure they are clean, I might already have cleaned them unwittingly, but good to be sure.
@@GarageBiljon Jon, still searching. There is one set on eBay right now, but I'm not fond of the price ($750)
Thanks @@jeffhammond8969!