Sorry Rick you missed some critical steps: 1. Wander around the garage looking for half the parts/tools for the job because you forgot where you set them down 2. Crawl under the vehicle a dozen times with different lights, pry tools etc that don't work 3. Hit something hard enough for a massive cloud of dust/rust to fall directly onto your face
I swapped out all the LED's internal. Will work on the external ones over the next few months. Makes a helluva difference in brightness. Well worth the cash/effort
If you decide to put LED Turn signed bulbs in, you may need to change the flasher unit as well (not sure if Tundra is a removable flasher or part of fuse box) reason is, the LED bulbs current draw is so low, it will not hear the bimetallic strips that make the lights flash. They make flashers for LED bulbs.
Thank you for your video... I tried doing it from underneath... got one in okay but when putting the second in, the bulb came out when I was trying to twist the plug back in. Thanks to watching you, I was able to pull the housing out like you did to get that bulb back in place and reinserted!
Installation done right. Tear open package, throw away shit that looks useless, complete job and throw away the suggestion on how to do it. Only a real man can do that with a bbq grill assembly
I put blue LEDs in my instrument cluster. One went out in a year, so I'll have to replace it, but it looks awesome. I put extra white LEDs over my plate to keep cops from fkn with me, as the originals are dull and far apart. I made a bracket to stick them on that is held by license plate screws.
What? ....... You didn't check to make sure there was 95% available voltage at the light? Sorry ..... I can't sign off on this project .... you'll have to do it again .......LOL For those who want to know, YES, that is an actual test. One of the requirements for testing lamps ( specifically headlights, brake lights, tail-lights and turn signals ) is that there be 95% of the available voltage at the socket. This assures the lamp will put out the required brightness. To perform the test, turn the lights on and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Then measure the voltage at the socket. If the voltage at the socket is equal to or greater than 0.95 x battery voltage ...... you pass Crap....... You woke up the dude with the lamp adjusters license ....LOL
Yeah in 64’ (Stout) was made to last with chrome, metal etc...a lifetime. So now Big Corporations have us buying EXPENSIVE but cheap made vehicle’s that last until a few years before you have it paid off. If your lucky🤦🏼♀️
Been on the market for a used Tacoma or Tundra. Was extremely unhappy to find that some years have a timing belt rather than chain! I don't trust the damn belts, if it breaks BANG goes the engine. Belts and insane used Toyota prices are stopping me from a truck 😥 Just for fun I went to Toyota website and built a 2020 Tundra. LMAO! $75,000 before taxes and etc. I didn't even add all the goodies to it, just what was needed. Sigh, a champagne taste on a beer budget. That new Ford F150 is nice too, but I trust Toyota more for reliability.
It's not necessarily true that if you break a timing belt the engine will suffer damage. There are two types of engine designs. One, called an interference engine and the other called a clearance engine. If the engine is a "clearance engine" the valves will never come in contact with the pistons so if the timing belt breaks the engine simply stops. If the engine is a "interference engine" if a valve is fully open when the piston reaches the top of it's travel the piston will strike the valve(s) bending it and possibly damaging the piston too. The key is know what type of engine you have and there are lists which cars contain interference engines on the web.
@@artt3165 Thank you for the info. I've known about the interference engine; a no for me, but was not taught about belt with interference vs clearance. My mechanic friends failed to explain this. They simply said choose chain over belt and no to interference🙄 Happy holidays Art!
@@jeliarra , You're Welcome. My day job was auto mechanics and there's a lot of myths and misconceptions about how cars work. I tend to look at the belt issue as one of those misconceptions. Originally, many of the overhead valve engines had chain driven cams. The problem was there was "chain whip." The mass of the chain would cause it to oscillate and then the chain might jump out of time. And you needed a chain tensioner system to control the whipping action. That system was usually oil pressure operated and with poor maintenance the tensioner would stick which would cause damage too. So.... we went belts for cost savings and because the belt tensioning system was not so dependent on regular maintenance. But you still had interference and clearance engine designs back then too.
@@artt3165 I remember being told about chain whip. Haven't thought about that in decades. Well, if I can get a good deal on a Tacoma or Tundra and know the truck has been maintenance regularly, I won't worry if chain or belt. Thanks again! Such information is valuable to me!
One of my biggest irritations in life, headlights! Between knucklehead mechanics not understanding how to adjust them, and people putting LED’s in the wrong housing, I might as well drive around with my middle finger out the window permanently at night. Learn how to adjust your headlights people, then aim them below horizontal. I won’t get in to the freakin light bars, everyone going on safari in suburbia.
@@woc3785 Exactly. There are times when I wish I had a big spotlight I could shine right into the eyes of those with irritating headlights, especially those that choose to tailgate!
Something tells me this is like a home improvement tv show where they remodel a kitchen in 30 minutes and it’s beautiful and I think I can do that and 30 minutes in I realize the next two months of my life are ruined by a short video
HAHA - right on! I had that exact thing happen..........car project should have only taken 2 hours. The last mechanic used an impact wrench to re install the front strut tower brace. Instructions step 1) remove strut tower brace.....the entire weekend later due to stripped bolts over torqued, the tower brace was removed. You speak the truth!!
In general: You need a resister pack spliced into the harness when swapping incandescent to LED. The computer (BCM) wont recognize the LED light because it isn’t using the same amount of power as the old bulb. So the computer thinks the LED is a blown out bulb. Stupid modern space ship vehicles.
@B real without the resister, the led lights will burn out quicker. Too much voltage is going to the LED. Some LED bulbs advertise no resister required. I haven’t looked into them honestly. Maybe they “trick” the bcm and the bulbs are truly plug and play.
It depends on the circuit used to detect the burnt out bulb. If you set the detection point low enough you won't have an issue. Also, an LED will not "burn out more quickly" because there's a current limiting resister attached to the LED. As a consequence the LED will draw whatever amount of current it is set to draw based on the current limiting resistor. There's no way for any bulb to "draw more current" in one circuit than it would draw in any other circuit because the current drawn by the lamp is a function of the resistance of the lamp. Unless the internal resistance of the lamp ( or current limit circuit of an LED ) changes, the lamp will not draw more current simply by installing it in a different circuit.
Maybe you should add to your video that this is a good secondary try once you’ve dropped the LED bulb inside the housing try any other way. Just telling you for a friend
Sorry Rick you missed some critical steps:
1. Wander around the garage looking for half the parts/tools for the job because you forgot where you set them down
2. Crawl under the vehicle a dozen times with different lights, pry tools etc that don't work
3. Hit something hard enough for a massive cloud of dust/rust to fall directly onto your face
🤣😂🤣😂 yep that’s me too
Hahaha! Ain't that the truth.
hahaa yeah how many times have I not done that......
I swapped out all the LED's internal. Will work on the external ones over the next few months. Makes a helluva difference in brightness. Well worth the cash/effort
Great video and thank you for editing the part with the yellow arrow to identify the press tab. Awesome job!
Glad it was helpful!
Why'dja change out the blue? It was pretty. 💙
freaking Gov wants white or they collect more taxes in fines
Thanks for the tip. That was easy and took me a couple minutes to swap out the bulb to LED. Awesome!
Glad it helped!
If you decide to put LED Turn signed bulbs in, you may need to change the flasher unit as well (not sure if Tundra is a removable flasher or part of fuse box) reason is, the LED bulbs current draw is so low, it will not hear the bimetallic strips that make the lights flash. They make flashers for LED bulbs.
Thank you for your video... I tried doing it from underneath... got one in okay but when putting the second in, the bulb came out when I was trying to twist the plug back in. Thanks to watching you, I was able to pull the housing out like you did to get that bulb back in place and reinserted!
Glad it helped
But Rick : You didn't show us the before and after at night from the factory bulbs to the blue to the LED . LOL
Put a row of red Christmas lights on the grill and call it Tundra Rider.... (Night Rider)
My light fell out and tried and tried from below. Thanks for the tip n how to push the whole contraption out.
Glad it helped
Installation done right. Tear open package, throw away shit that looks useless, complete job and throw away the suggestion on how to do it. Only a real man can do that with a bbq grill assembly
Good video Rick thanks! Still liking the tundra better than the Ford you had?
He is correct, pull the lens housing. Tabs are on the sides!!!
Good opsec covering your plate this time. ;)
But Rick you forgot the contact cleaner and protectant 😆. Sorry, just a little Monday morning humor.
you are right, I am out have new can on order
I put blue LEDs in my instrument cluster. One went out in a year, so I'll have to replace it, but it looks awesome. I put extra white LEDs over my plate to keep cops from fkn with me, as the originals are dull and far apart. I made a bracket to stick them on that is held by license plate screws.
💛 WHEN U DO KEWL 🚗 STUFF. LIKE TAKING STUFF WORKS. MY DAD ALWAYS SAY " LOSEY LEFTY RIGHTY TITY
Rick. Love it.
I need to know how the housing is installed
What year is your Tundra? I have a 2007 Limited.
I think 17
Hey Tundra folks!🤗
Well that fun huh..good vid tricky Ricky
Great to know ! Now I have to figure it out in a F-150 but it shouldn’t be much different ! 🙏🏻🗽
Looks like it will make a big difference
Great video! I tried changing mine from underneath....Yeah, it sucks!!
Thank you helps a lot
A good to know how fix 4 sure!
Nice .
What? ....... You didn't check to make sure there was 95% available voltage at the light?
Sorry ..... I can't sign off on this project .... you'll have to do it again .......LOL
For those who want to know, YES, that is an actual test.
One of the requirements for testing lamps ( specifically headlights, brake lights, tail-lights and turn signals ) is that there be 95% of the available voltage at the socket. This assures the lamp will put out the required brightness.
To perform the test, turn the lights on and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. Then measure the voltage at the socket. If the voltage at the socket is equal to or greater than 0.95 x battery voltage ...... you pass
Crap....... You woke up the dude with the lamp adjusters license ....LOL
My Toyota has 270,000 on it, every time I go to change ANYTHING at all, the plastic breaks from being so brittle 😆
I am assuming it is a decade or so Old...
Yeah in 64’ (Stout) was made to last with chrome, metal etc...a lifetime. So now Big Corporations have us buying EXPENSIVE but cheap made vehicle’s that last until a few years before you have it paid off. If your lucky🤦🏼♀️
@@HeyGunPeople Yup 🍩🍩🍩🍩🥛🥛🥛🥛☕️☕️☕️☕️
Much easier this way, Thank you
You're welcome!
😃👍🏽 Thank you!
You are welcome!
I'm thinking of getting a tacoma. You like your Toyota.
I was thinking of getting a brand new tan one just like isis.
great truck
Thank you I did mine
Been on the market for a used Tacoma or Tundra. Was extremely unhappy to find that some years have a timing belt rather than chain! I don't trust the damn belts, if it breaks BANG goes the engine. Belts and insane used Toyota prices are stopping me from a truck 😥 Just for fun I went to Toyota website and built a 2020 Tundra. LMAO! $75,000 before taxes and etc. I didn't even add all the goodies to it, just what was needed. Sigh, a champagne taste on a beer budget. That new Ford F150 is nice too, but I trust Toyota more for reliability.
It's not necessarily true that if you break a timing belt the engine will suffer damage.
There are two types of engine designs. One, called an interference engine and the other called a clearance engine.
If the engine is a "clearance engine" the valves will never come in contact with the pistons so if the timing belt breaks the engine simply stops.
If the engine is a "interference engine" if a valve is fully open when the piston reaches the top of it's travel the piston will strike the valve(s) bending it and possibly damaging the piston too.
The key is know what type of engine you have and there are lists which cars contain interference engines on the web.
@@artt3165 Thank you for the info. I've known about the interference engine; a no for me, but was not taught about belt with interference vs clearance. My mechanic friends failed to explain this. They simply said choose chain over belt and no to interference🙄 Happy holidays Art!
@@jeliarra ,
You're Welcome.
My day job was auto mechanics and there's a lot of myths and misconceptions about how cars work.
I tend to look at the belt issue as one of those misconceptions.
Originally, many of the overhead valve engines had chain driven cams.
The problem was there was "chain whip."
The mass of the chain would cause it to oscillate and then the chain might jump out of time. And you needed a chain tensioner system to control the whipping action. That system was usually oil pressure operated and with poor maintenance the tensioner would stick which would cause damage too.
So.... we went belts for cost savings and because the belt tensioning system was not so dependent on regular maintenance.
But you still had interference and clearance engine designs back then too.
@@artt3165 I remember being told about chain whip. Haven't thought about that in decades. Well, if I can get a good deal on a Tacoma or Tundra and know the truck has been maintenance regularly, I won't worry if chain or belt. Thanks again! Such information is valuable to me!
Please don't put the LED lights in your headlights. Those damn things hurt your eyes.
One of my biggest irritations in life, headlights! Between knucklehead mechanics not understanding how to adjust them, and people putting LED’s in the wrong housing, I might as well drive around with my middle finger out the window permanently at night. Learn how to adjust your headlights people, then aim them below horizontal. I won’t get in to the freakin light bars, everyone going on safari in suburbia.
Exactly and I don’t like Halogens either or are they the same?
@@woc3785 made me laugh.... The part about driving around with your middle finger permanently up at night😂🤣😂
@@woc3785 Exactly. There are times when I wish I had a big spotlight I could shine right into the eyes of those with irritating headlights, especially those that choose to tailgate!
Great tip thanks.
Easy peasy
Something tells me this is like a home improvement tv show where they remodel a kitchen in 30 minutes and it’s beautiful and I think I can do that and 30 minutes in I realize the next two months of my life are ruined by a short video
HAHA - right on! I had that exact thing happen..........car project should have only taken 2 hours. The last mechanic used an impact wrench to re install the front strut tower brace. Instructions step 1) remove strut tower brace.....the entire weekend later due to stripped bolts over torqued, the tower brace was removed. You speak the truth!!
In general: You need a resister pack spliced into the harness when swapping incandescent to LED. The computer (BCM) wont recognize the LED light because it isn’t using the same amount of power as the old bulb. So the computer thinks the LED is a blown out bulb. Stupid modern space ship vehicles.
@B real without the resister, the led lights will burn out quicker. Too much voltage is going to the LED. Some LED bulbs advertise no resister required. I haven’t looked into them honestly. Maybe they “trick” the bcm and the bulbs are truly plug and play.
It depends on the circuit used to detect the burnt out bulb. If you set the detection point low enough you won't have an issue.
Also, an LED will not "burn out more quickly" because there's a current limiting resister attached to the LED. As a consequence the LED will draw whatever amount of current it is set to draw based on the current limiting resistor.
There's no way for any bulb to "draw more current" in one circuit than it would draw in any other circuit because the current drawn by the lamp is a function of the resistance of the lamp. Unless the internal resistance of the lamp ( or current limit circuit of an LED ) changes, the lamp will not draw more current simply by installing it in a different circuit.
35 rick make sure you are using quality led bulb none of them cheap China ones bc if you do you can get voltage spikes thru bcm. 🍩🍩🍕🍩🍕🍩🍕🥛
lol I used my had trying to block the sun lmao 🤣
Altering vehicle lights, sounds like a Gov ticket or reason to stop you
1st
🍩🍩🍩🍩🥓🥓🥛
Congratulations! 🥗 Rick already left the good food so here's a salad. Have a good day!
Laural
Thanks, Laura! Love salads and need to keep eating them😂. Have a great day!
Maybe you should add to your video that this is a good secondary try once you’ve dropped the LED bulb inside the housing try any other way. Just telling you for a friend