I have watched dozens of builders videos, both experienced and inexperienced (the latter actually tend to be better as far as identifying pitfalls), in preparing to start a boat myself. One myth I have found very consistent for many builders, including some of the experienced folks, is that wetting or soaking lumber helps to make it more flexible. I have 45 years as a furniture maker and the reality is that this myth started because of the practice of steam bending. People concluded that it is the moisture that creates the flexibility. Reality is that it is the heat, not the moisture, that makes the cellulose (that is basically the glue within the wood cells) flexible; like heating plastic to make it flexible. The moisture in the steam insures that you do not dry out the wood making the surface brittle while heating and the fact that steam transfers heat energy at a much higher rate than dry air while also insuring that he temperature will never exceed 212F degrees. So soaking may help in a very minor way with some wood but the reality is that fully cured/dried wood can sit in water for years without the water penetrating any further than the first few layers of cells. If you need to bend solids you are best off to build a little steam generator of some sort and place your wood into an appropriate container that will contain the steam (In college we did some steam bent furniture for a design class by making a steamer using a propane deep fryer with a pipe attached thru the lid going into a long piece of 6" PVC pipe. By raking the pipe at a down angle and drilling a small escape hole at the capped end the steam was able to flow thru the pipe and condensed water escaped thru the hole. 12 hours in the steamer and 1/2" white oak strips would easily bend around fairly tight curves). Absolutely love all the first time builder videos.
I appreciate the information. It makes sense. I remember as a young boy, going on a field trip to a folk festival, and weaving baskets made of long, thin, rounded reeds that were soaking in a tub of water for flexibility and stiffened once dry. I can see how water alone would not necessarily penetrate thicker, harder woods.
ALLWAYS use masking tape when you appy silicone or thick glue, remove as soon as glue applied so it won't dry into the seam. Your tip with the carving in the joints is great. will do it to the boat I'm busy with now.
Bạn là một người có tài năng thật sự. Tôi yêu bạn cùng chiếc thuyền của bạn. Thật tuyệt vời khi được xem vidieo của bạn. Chúc bạn luôn vui hạnh phúc và thành công như những gì bạn lựa chọn. Yêu bạn 🌸🌸❣️
Unfortunately Jeff Spira has passed away and his website is no longer available. I had been looking at several plans to build and now it doesn't look like I will get to build any of his boats. My thoughts go out to his family and friends. RIP Jeff Spira!!!
I really like the detail with which you explain the process. Nice job. Sadly Jeff has passed away and to my knowledge his plans are unfortunately no longer available. I had wanted the plans for a 16’ Seneca but didn’t get them before the site was removed
hi mike .nice boat and enjoy as much as you can. im doing as much as i can for my own.will you clear me the length of those 2x4 along the strong back.tks. one more
Great job on your boat. And thanks for sharing the build process and your decisions with the world. How is it holding up? I'm worried about maintaining a wooden boat in the cold wet climate of Washington.
@@mikethedesertrat Mike, thanks for replying! I bought the plans for Walter Baron's 16' lumberyard skiff, and I've saved up about 4K to build it, which I think would be fun, but I haven't had the nerve to buy the materials yet. I live on the Columbia River (1 mile wide) and I'd also love to lauch the boat in the Puget Sound. Do you still like construction adhesives for securing the transom and frames?
@@sandystrait3878 Sounds like a great place for a boat. I'm still satisfied with having used adhesive in the places I did. Just make sure to get the higher quality ones. You can use fiberglass to reinforce any critical areas. Plenty of resources on UA-cam for tips and advice. You'll do fine if you take your time and think things out.
Mike was looking at my plans and watching your build did you make adjustments on frames where the frame is wider the 48" so to use two sheets on the bottom?
Yes, I opted for a "seam" down the keelson of about 2". I filled it with a 2" strip of the same plywood. Other options might suit you better. That's just what I did.
Nice job. Researching for my 2022 DIY project. When glassing the bottom, why wouldn't you glass the sides first, then overlap the side when glassing the bottom? All YT videos seem to do it your way, but intuitively, doing the sides first seems the right way. Can you comment? Thanks.
To be honest, I don't think it would matter either way. With a quality epoxy and well-laid fiberglass mat the resulting bond will suffice. The order would not affect the strength or finish.
I'm guessing that glassing the bottom or other horizontal surfaces is easier than vertical surfaces, so for someone who isn't an expert at fiberglass work it gives some practice before moving onto the more challenging bits, but there's no reason mechanically or aesthetically that I know of.
Unfortunately Jeff Spira passed away about a year ago. To date, his family has not reopened his site or found someone to buy the rights to make Spira's plans available to new boatbuilders. Some valuable tips in this video.
Sorry, I don't have any suggestions for you. It's been about a year and a half since I researched plans. I can't recall the other specific plan providers I had seen.
Do you still have the plans for this I wanted to build a nola dory I think I can get away with a flat nose version of yours Jeff passed away before I could afford the prints and the website is no more can you help me out
Your rationale for using cheap materials devalues your effort. I believe that time will prove that for the same amount of labor, better materials would make the project worthwhile. IMHO.
I don't agree with the premise that I used cheap materials. If you're referring to me not using marine grade plywood all I can say is there is a time and place for both and my finished boat is not outside the capabilities of my product of choice. Additionally, the project was very worthwhile irrespective of any perceived quality choices.
Hi Mike My father is building a boat, and would like to ask you a question. Can you contact me so I can put you into contact with my dad. Thank you in advance, Gil M.
@@mikethedesertrat Hi Mike thanks for the correspondence. My dad says its 69 3/4 on top of beam, he would like to know how large is the bottom of the beam. and also if the angle of the transom is 16 degrees. I hope you have a great day, and once again thank you so much for your response. Gil m.
You’re calm collective way of describing your journey was definitely entertaining and inspiring thank you. Can’t wait for part two
Sorry for the slow reply but I appreciate your comment.
You’re calm collective way of describing your journey was definitely entertaining and inspiring thank you. Can’t wait for
Olive is such a heroic companion
RIP Jeff Spira. Earth lost one of its best artisans when he passed.
I have watched dozens of builders videos, both experienced and inexperienced (the latter actually tend to be better as far as identifying pitfalls), in preparing to start a boat myself. One myth I have found very consistent for many builders, including some of the experienced folks, is that wetting or soaking lumber helps to make it more flexible. I have 45 years as a furniture maker and the reality is that this myth started because of the practice of steam bending. People concluded that it is the moisture that creates the flexibility. Reality is that it is the heat, not the moisture, that makes the cellulose (that is basically the glue within the wood cells) flexible; like heating plastic to make it flexible. The moisture in the steam insures that you do not dry out the wood making the surface brittle while heating and the fact that steam transfers heat energy at a much higher rate than dry air while also insuring that he temperature will never exceed 212F degrees. So soaking may help in a very minor way with some wood but the reality is that fully cured/dried wood can sit in water for years without the water penetrating any further than the first few layers of cells. If you need to bend solids you are best off to build a little steam generator of some sort and place your wood into an appropriate container that will contain the steam (In college we did some steam bent furniture for a design class by making a steamer using a propane deep fryer with a pipe attached thru the lid going into a long piece of 6" PVC pipe. By raking the pipe at a down angle and drilling a small escape hole at the capped end the steam was able to flow thru the pipe and condensed water escaped thru the hole. 12 hours in the steamer and 1/2" white oak strips would easily bend around fairly tight curves). Absolutely love all the first time builder videos.
I appreciate the information. It makes sense. I remember as a young boy, going on a field trip to a folk festival, and weaving baskets made of long, thin, rounded reeds that were soaking in a tub of water for flexibility and stiffened once dry. I can see how water alone would not necessarily penetrate thicker, harder woods.
That was a great idea shaping the frames so water flowed to the keelson.
Thanks.
Thank you. the best thing you do is comment on those things that do not appear and that are only interpreted and you do it very well.
Thank you.!
Saw your video or at least parts of it on Jeff Spira's channel. Great job on the video and the build, especially considering it's your first time.
Thank you
ALLWAYS use masking tape when you appy silicone or thick glue, remove as soon as glue applied so it won't dry into the seam. Your tip with the carving in the joints is great. will do it to the boat I'm busy with now.
Thanks for the tip.
Excellent stuff bro
Thank you.
Bạn là một người có tài năng thật sự. Tôi yêu bạn cùng chiếc thuyền của bạn. Thật tuyệt vời khi được xem vidieo của bạn. Chúc bạn luôn vui hạnh phúc và thành công như những gì bạn lựa chọn. Yêu bạn 🌸🌸❣️
Great video
Thank you.
Unfortunately Jeff Spira has passed away and his website is no longer available. I had been looking at several plans to build and now it doesn't look like I will get to build any of his boats. My thoughts go out to his family and friends. RIP Jeff Spira!!!
Yes, It's sad and unfortunate. I didn't even know until 2 months after. I hope you find other plans and build your boat.
Check out old wharf dory lumberyard skiff
nice job thnx
Would love to see part 2 can't wait
Should be up and viewable now. :) Let me know what you think.
I really like the detail with which you explain the process. Nice job. Sadly Jeff has passed away and to my knowledge his plans are unfortunately no longer available. I had wanted the plans for a 16’ Seneca but didn’t get them before the site was removed
i have it would u like a copy
jeffs family have no interest in keeping it going, have not built it will send u a pdf if u want
@@johnmurphy9172 Hi John, I would very much appreciate that. It’s unfortunate that Jeff’s family hasn’t any interest, he had some nice plans.
@@larrygates3737 hi larry have u a facebook i have the pdf file of seneca and need to be able to drag and drop it to u
Hi, I’d also be happy if either of you would send me those plans, I wish they’d left the site up
Olive is great help
hi mike .nice boat and enjoy as much as you can. im doing as much as i can for my own.will you clear me the length of those 2x4 along the strong back.tks. one more
Are you talking about the height above the horizonatal 2x4? If so, the first 5 are at 9.25", then the remaining 3 are: 8.5", 6.5", and 2.5".
Great job on your boat. And thanks for sharing the build process and your decisions with the world. How is it holding up? I'm worried about maintaining a wooden boat in the cold wet climate of Washington.
So far great. Covering the boat will add many years of longevity and less maintenance too. Thanks.
@@mikethedesertrat Mike, thanks for replying! I bought the plans for Walter Baron's 16' lumberyard skiff, and I've saved up about 4K to build it, which I think would be fun, but I haven't had the nerve to buy the materials yet. I live on the Columbia River (1 mile wide) and I'd also love to lauch the boat in the Puget Sound. Do you still like construction adhesives for securing the transom and frames?
@@sandystrait3878 Sounds like a great place for a boat. I'm still satisfied with having used adhesive in the places I did. Just make sure to get the higher quality ones. You can use fiberglass to reinforce any critical areas. Plenty of resources on UA-cam for tips and advice. You'll do fine if you take your time and think things out.
would you have a set of Seneca plans. I built a Tillamook and it was a great project but I am wanting to build the smaller Seneca.
Mike was looking at my plans and watching your build did you make adjustments on frames where the frame is wider the 48" so to use two sheets on the bottom?
Yes, I opted for a "seam" down the keelson of about 2". I filled it with a 2" strip of the same plywood. Other options might suit you better. That's just what I did.
Nice job. Researching for my 2022 DIY project. When glassing the bottom, why wouldn't you glass the sides first, then overlap the side when glassing the bottom? All YT videos seem to do it your way, but intuitively, doing the sides first seems the right way. Can you comment? Thanks.
To be honest, I don't think it would matter either way. With a quality epoxy and well-laid fiberglass mat the resulting bond will suffice. The order would not affect the strength or finish.
I'm guessing that glassing the bottom or other horizontal surfaces is easier than vertical surfaces, so for someone who isn't an expert at fiberglass work it gives some practice before moving onto the more challenging bits, but there's no reason mechanically or aesthetically that I know of.
@@pakde8002 yes, practicing on the bottom did help.
Unfortunately Jeff Spira passed away about a year ago. To date, his family has not reopened his site or found someone to buy the rights to make Spira's plans available to new boatbuilders. Some valuable tips in this video.
Thank you.
your boat building days are interrupted by the 8 - 5 job....LOL
Hi there , very nice series .. been looking for the plans everywhere and no luck , spira website is down .. any suggestions ?
Sorry, I don't have any suggestions for you. It's been about a year and a half since I researched plans. I can't recall the other specific plan providers I had seen.
The owner passed away. I suggest glen L boat plans
Any way to copy the plans?
Do you still have the plans for this I wanted to build a nola dory I think I can get away with a flat nose version of yours Jeff passed away before I could afford the prints and the website is no more can you help me out
You should have looked at glen L boat boat designs .
I did for my next boat, but chose a B & B Yacht Designs set of plans. Haven't started yet.
What kind of glue was that in the caulking gun ???? Brand ??? Lowe’s ???
At the 3:00 mark I show what I used. PL MAX Premium. Got it at Home Depot.
What did you think the paint with ???
Actually I didn't, but should have. Total Boat website should recommend how if you use their product.
Yo, what's the grey glue?
PL Max Premium.
Height of the side pls....tnx
Your rationale for using cheap materials devalues your effort. I believe that time will prove that for the same amount of labor, better materials would make the project worthwhile. IMHO.
I don't agree with the premise that I used cheap materials. If you're referring to me not using marine grade plywood all I can say is there is a time and place for both and my finished boat is not outside the capabilities of my product of choice. Additionally, the project was very worthwhile irrespective of any perceived quality choices.
Hi Mike My father is building a boat, and would like to ask you a question. Can you contact me so I can put you into contact with my dad. Thank you in advance, Gil M.
Is it possible to ask the question here?
@@mikethedesertrat Hi Mike thanks for the correspondence. My dad says its 69 3/4 on top of beam, he would like to know how large is the bottom of the beam. and also if the angle of the transom is 16 degrees. I hope you have a great day, and once again thank you so much for your response. Gil m.
@@mgillionair82 Yes, 69 3/4 beam, max floor width is 48 1/2" (OD), transom angle is 14 degrees.
Please keep it up!!! You need P r o m o S M!
You’re calm collective way of describing your journey was definitely entertaining and inspiring thank you. Can’t wait for Part two
Thank you